Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:49 AM - Re: Plywood leading edge (Gene Rambo)
2. 07:45 AM - Re: Plywood leading edge (Dick Navratil)
3. 08:21 AM - Re: Plywood leading edge (Brian Kraut)
4. 10:53 AM - Re: Plywood leading edge (Dick Navratil)
5. 11:42 AM - Re: Plywood leading edge (HelsperSew@aol.com)
6. 11:44 AM - Re: Plywood leading edge (shad bell)
7. 11:53 AM - Re: Plywood leading edge (Phillips, Jack)
8. 12:15 PM - Re: Plywood leading edge (Brian Kraut)
9. 01:49 PM - love to post this pic (walt evans)
10. 01:57 PM - need advice on radios (walt evans)
11. 03:01 PM - Re: need advice on radios (hvandervoo@aol.com)
12. 03:32 PM - Re: need advice on radios (Eric Williams)
13. 03:48 PM - Re: need advice on radios (Peter W Johnson)
14. 04:20 PM - harley rims (tmbrant1@netzero.com)
15. 05:55 PM - Re: love to post this pic (Ryan Michals)
16. 06:04 PM - Model A engine Piet questions (iowaboy)
17. 06:10 PM - Re: harley rims (gcardinal)
18. 07:11 PM - Re: love to post this pic (walt evans)
19. 07:35 PM - Re: need advice on radios (nypnx211@charter.net)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Plywood leading edge |
I don't know what the plans look like for the GN!, but why are you (and
others) putting the ply all the way around the leading edge? It is only
called for on the top, from the leading edge back to the spar.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Kraut<mailto:brian.kraut@engalt.com>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com<mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 4:28 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Plywood leading edge
<brian.kraut@engalt.com<mailto:brian.kraut@engalt.com>>
I am about ready to do the 1/16" plywood skin on my Sky Scout center
section. I have the GN-1 airfoil which has a little bigger radius on
the
leading edge, but it still looks to me like a pretty small radius bend
for
1/16" plywood. The GN-1 plans don't give a lot of details and I can't
seem
to locate my Piet plans right now.
I am thinking two possible methods of doing this. The first one would
be to
do the spruce leading edge and form it for a 1/4" recess top and
bottom to
have separate plywood pieces that glue to it, but do not wrap all the
way
around the tight nose radius.
The second method would be to form the leading edge to match the ribs
and
wrap a the plywood leading edge piece all the way around it. I think
that I
would need to soak the plywood and wrap it wet then let it dry and
form to
the shape to keep from breaking it. If I do this method I will add
filler
pieces on the top and bottom of the forward spar and make a leading
edge
that only covers halfway back on the spars then use separate pieces to
go
from there to the trailing edge.
The second method seems to be the best plan, but I am not 100% sure if
the
ply will wrap around the leading edge without breaking even if it is
soaked.
Comments?
If I recall correctly when plywood is used for the leading edge on the
outboard wings it is something thinner than 1/16". Correct?
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com<http://www.engalt.com/>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List<http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Plywood leading edge |
Brian
You can definetly bend the plywood after wetting. That is the way did it,
although I didnt submerge the plywood. I covered the plwood with a wet
towel and slowly bent it around the LE. I used cargo straps covered with
saran wrap and kept pulling as the wood was ready to give.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 3:28 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Plywood leading edge
> <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> I am about ready to do the 1/16" plywood skin on my Sky Scout center
> section. I have the GN-1 airfoil which has a little bigger radius on the
> leading edge, but it still looks to me like a pretty small radius bend for
> 1/16" plywood. The GN-1 plans don't give a lot of details and I can't
> seem
> to locate my Piet plans right now.
>
> I am thinking two possible methods of doing this. The first one would be
> to
> do the spruce leading edge and form it for a 1/4" recess top and bottom to
> have separate plywood pieces that glue to it, but do not wrap all the way
> around the tight nose radius.
>
> The second method would be to form the leading edge to match the ribs and
> wrap a the plywood leading edge piece all the way around it. I think that
> I
> would need to soak the plywood and wrap it wet then let it dry and form to
> the shape to keep from breaking it. If I do this method I will add filler
> pieces on the top and bottom of the forward spar and make a leading edge
> that only covers halfway back on the spars then use separate pieces to go
> from there to the trailing edge.
>
> The second method seems to be the best plan, but I am not 100% sure if the
> ply will wrap around the leading edge without breaking even if it is
> soaked.
> Comments?
>
> If I recall correctly when plywood is used for the leading edge on the
> outboard wings it is something thinner than 1/16". Correct?
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Plywood leading edge |
Thanks. It is birch with a poplar center three ply. Any preference as to
weather the outside plies should be bent accross or along the grain? It is
hard to tell which direction the sheet bends easiest because it is a full 4
X 8 sheet now and I don't want to cut it until I know the shape and size of
the pieces I am cutting out. I don't have much of the sheet to waste.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dick
Navratil
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Plywood leading edge
<horzpool@goldengate.net>
Brian
You can definetly bend the plywood after wetting. That is the way did it,
although I didnt submerge the plywood. I covered the plwood with a wet
towel and slowly bent it around the LE. I used cargo straps covered with
saran wrap and kept pulling as the wood was ready to give.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 3:28 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Plywood leading edge
> <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> I am about ready to do the 1/16" plywood skin on my Sky Scout center
> section. I have the GN-1 airfoil which has a little bigger radius on the
> leading edge, but it still looks to me like a pretty small radius bend for
> 1/16" plywood. The GN-1 plans don't give a lot of details and I can't
> seem
> to locate my Piet plans right now.
>
> I am thinking two possible methods of doing this. The first one would be
> to
> do the spruce leading edge and form it for a 1/4" recess top and bottom to
> have separate plywood pieces that glue to it, but do not wrap all the way
> around the tight nose radius.
>
> The second method would be to form the leading edge to match the ribs and
> wrap a the plywood leading edge piece all the way around it. I think that
> I
> would need to soak the plywood and wrap it wet then let it dry and form to
> the shape to keep from breaking it. If I do this method I will add filler
> pieces on the top and bottom of the forward spar and make a leading edge
> that only covers halfway back on the spars then use separate pieces to go
> from there to the trailing edge.
>
> The second method seems to be the best plan, but I am not 100% sure if the
> ply will wrap around the leading edge without breaking even if it is
> soaked.
> Comments?
>
> If I recall correctly when plywood is used for the leading edge on the
> outboard wings it is something thinner than 1/16". Correct?
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Plywood leading edge |
I used Okume plywood on mine. I have never tried bending birch and cant
help you there.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 10:18 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Plywood leading edge
> <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> Thanks. It is birch with a poplar center three ply. Any preference as to
> weather the outside plies should be bent accross or along the grain? It
> is
> hard to tell which direction the sheet bends easiest because it is a full
> 4
> X 8 sheet now and I don't want to cut it until I know the shape and size
> of
> the pieces I am cutting out. I don't have much of the sheet to waste.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dick
> Navratil
> Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 10:42 AM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Plywood leading edge
>
>
> <horzpool@goldengate.net>
>
> Brian
> You can definetly bend the plywood after wetting. That is the way did
> it,
> although I didnt submerge the plywood. I covered the plwood with a wet
> towel and slowly bent it around the LE. I used cargo straps covered with
> saran wrap and kept pulling as the wood was ready to give.
> Dick N.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 3:28 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Plywood leading edge
>
>
>> <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>>
>> I am about ready to do the 1/16" plywood skin on my Sky Scout center
>> section. I have the GN-1 airfoil which has a little bigger radius on the
>> leading edge, but it still looks to me like a pretty small radius bend
>> for
>> 1/16" plywood. The GN-1 plans don't give a lot of details and I can't
>> seem
>> to locate my Piet plans right now.
>>
>> I am thinking two possible methods of doing this. The first one would be
>> to
>> do the spruce leading edge and form it for a 1/4" recess top and bottom
>> to
>> have separate plywood pieces that glue to it, but do not wrap all the way
>> around the tight nose radius.
>>
>> The second method would be to form the leading edge to match the ribs and
>> wrap a the plywood leading edge piece all the way around it. I think
>> that
>> I
>> would need to soak the plywood and wrap it wet then let it dry and form
>> to
>> the shape to keep from breaking it. If I do this method I will add
>> filler
>> pieces on the top and bottom of the forward spar and make a leading edge
>> that only covers halfway back on the spars then use separate pieces to go
>> from there to the trailing edge.
>>
>> The second method seems to be the best plan, but I am not 100% sure if
>> the
>> ply will wrap around the leading edge without breaking even if it is
>> soaked.
>> Comments?
>>
>> If I recall correctly when plywood is used for the leading edge on the
>> outboard wings it is something thinner than 1/16". Correct?
>>
>> Brian Kraut
>> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
>> www.engalt.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Plywood leading edge |
I used 1/16 birch with no problem. Apply with the outside grain parallel
with the wingspan. I made a little recessed edge with my router all along the
leading edge. Glued w/T-88 all along the L.E. and stayed with it nailing it
down little by little into a bed of T-88. No problem to do it dry with no water
or steaming. Came out beautiful.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
**************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car
listings at AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851)
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Plywood leading edge |
Brian, When I bent the leading edge pieces for my Jungster I layed a bunch of towels
over the piece I was bending and dumped boiling water on them repedly to
keep them hot and wet. As it softened I wraped it around a piece of 1.5 inch
pipe and clamped it there. Let it sit a couple of dayes untill it is completly
dry, then unclamp and check it out. I bent mine with the grain (parallel)
. This I believe makes the wing stronger with respect to bending loads on the
spars, when grain of ply runs root to tip.
Shad
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 7
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Subject: | Plywood leading edge |
That's what I did as well. No plywood on the bottom, and on the top it
just covered the ribs back to the spar and stopped with a slight overlap
in the rabbet I cut in the leading edge. I used spruce nailing strips
(per Tony Bingelis) and waxed paper to hold it down while the T-88
cured. No water required.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HelsperSew@aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Plywood leading edge
I used 1/16 birch with no problem. Apply with the outside grain parallel
with the wingspan. I made a little recessed edge with my router all
along the leading edge. Glued w/T-88 all along the L.E. and stayed with
it nailing it down little by little into a bed of T-88. No problem to do
it dry with no water or steaming. Came out beautiful.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
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Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
orsk - Portuguese
Message 8
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Subject: | Plywood leading edge |
It was not very clear on the GN-1 plans, but I did just find something
stating what you say.
It is a little baffeling to me why you would use aluminum or ply on the
outboard wing leading edges and not do it on the center section. You might
not need the strength since the spars in that area ar so much more
substantial and the loading on the center section is very low, but I still
want the ply there to keep the correct shape where the covering goes over
and resistance to objects hitting the leading edge and ripping the covering,
not to mention the appearance looking the same on the center section vs. the
outboard wings. One other concern for me is that the top center section
will have no ply between the spars other than about three inches on each
side and a screwed on aluminum cover for the fuel tank so a little extra
strength from covering the leading and trailing edge will help. I am doing
the plywood on the area aft of the spar to give it strength when people grab
it getting in and out and bang their heads on it.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gene Rambo
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 7:46 AM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Plywood leading edge
I don't know what the plans look like for the GN!, but why are you (and
others) putting the ply all the way around the leading edge? It is only
called for on the top, from the leading edge back to the spar.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Kraut
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 4:28 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Plywood leading edge
<brian.kraut@engalt.com>
I am about ready to do the 1/16" plywood skin on my Sky Scout center
section. I have the GN-1 airfoil which has a little bigger radius on
the
leading edge, but it still looks to me like a pretty small radius bend
for
1/16" plywood. The GN-1 plans don't give a lot of details and I can't
seem
to locate my Piet plans right now.
I am thinking two possible methods of doing this. The first one would
be to
do the spruce leading edge and form it for a 1/4" recess top and bottom
to
have separate plywood pieces that glue to it, but do not wrap all the
way
around the tight nose radius.
The second method would be to form the leading edge to match the ribs
and
wrap a the plywood leading edge piece all the way around it. I think
that I
would need to soak the plywood and wrap it wet then let it dry and form
to
the shape to keep from breaking it. If I do this method I will add
filler
pieces on the top and bottom of the forward spar and make a leading edge
that only covers halfway back on the spars then use separate pieces to
go
from there to the trailing edge.
The second method seems to be the best plan, but I am not 100% sure if
the
ply will wrap around the leading edge without breaking even if it is
soaked.
Comments?
If I recall correctly when plywood is used for the leading edge on the
outboard wings it is something thinner than 1/16". Correct?
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
http://www.matp; via the Web title=http://forums.matronics.com/
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
title=http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c====
===========
Message 9
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Subject: | love to post this pic |
Taken a few years ago, by my photographer friend in the front seat.
Landing on runway 24, over the lake
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"If you look for a reason not to,,,You'll find it"
Message 10
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Subject: | need advice on radios |
I've been putting off buying a radio forever. I know legally I don't
need it. But more and more, I've been haveing confrontations in the
pattern with people who don't see me, and assume everyone has a radio.
Guess it's the new generation.
Anyway,,,flying the piet with David Clark headsets, with an intercom
unit that will accept a radio input.
Any suggestions on a "hand held" that's SIMPLE to use, that I can plug
into that?.
My main need is to switch channels easily, for unicom radio talk. And
hopefully can talk and hear in the wind.
Thanks
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"If you look for a reason not to,,,You'll find it"
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: need advice on radios |
Walt,
I have good success with a ICOM A 6 and David Clark headset
Hans
NX15KV
-----Original Message-----
From: walt evans <waltdak@verizon.net>
Sent: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 3:55 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: need advice on radios
I've been putting off buying a radio forever. I know legally I don't
need it. But more and more, I've been haveing confrontations in the
pattern with people who don't see me, and assume everyone has a radio.
Guess it's the new generation.
Anyway,,,flying the piet with David Clark headsets, with an intercom
unit that will accept a radio input.
Any suggestions on a "hand held" that's SIMPLE to use, that I can plug
into that?.
My main need is to switch channels easily, for unicom radio talk. And
hopefully can talk and hear in the wind.
Thanks
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"If you look for a reason not to,,,You'll find it"
Message 12
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Subject: | need advice on radios |
Walt,
I use the David Clark H10-13.4 headset. A few years ago I bought a Vertex
VXA 300 Pilot III handheld radio. I really liked it initially in my ground
tests but... when I hooked it up to my headset I had a lot of trouble with
it (weird whine noise). It worked fine with another one I had (D Clark -
other model) but not very well with my new 13.4 headset.
Also, when flying with it, static was busting through the squelch much of t
he time. I could 90% solve that by changing a bunch of settings but it was
n't very convenient.
I called Vertex support and David Clark support and while they tried to be
helpful, nothing got solved. If I had to do it over again I would buy an I
com.
Eric
enpol-List: need advice on radiosTo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
I've been putting off buying a radio forever. I know legally I don't need i
t. But more and more, I've been haveing confrontations in the pattern with
people who don't see me, and assume everyone has a radio. Guess it's the ne
w generation.
Anyway,,,flying the piet with David Clark headsets, with an intercom unit t
hat will accept a radio input.
Any suggestions on a "hand held" that's SIMPLE to use, that I can plug into
that?.
My main need is to switch channels easily, for unicom radio talk. And hope
fully can talk and hear in the wind.
Thanks
Walt EvansNX140DL
"If you look for a reason not to,,,You'll find it"
Message 13
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Subject: | need advice on radios |
Walt,
I also use the Icom A6 with good results. Have a look at HYPERLINK
"http://www.cpc-world.com/new_card_images/images/IMG_0393_JPG.jpg"http://www
.cpc-world.com/new_card_images/images/IMG_0393_JPG.jpg for some installation
pictures. I have mounted the ground plan antenna behind the seat inside the
fuse. Not an option for a completed airplane.
I have since purchased a PA200 intercom (HYPERLINK
"http://www.fly-bluesky.com/intercoms.htm"http://www.fly-bluesky.com/interco
ms.htm) which works beautifully.
I occasionally have to duck my head down behind the windscreen to get out of
the wind noise when going very fast!!!!
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
HYPERLINK "http://www.cpc-world.com/"http://www.cpc-world.com
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of walt evans
Sent: Tuesday, 22 April 2008 6:55 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: need advice on radios
I've been putting off buying a radio forever. I know legally I don't need
it. But more and more, I've been haveing confrontations in the pattern with
people who don't see me, and assume everyone has a radio. Guess it's the new
generation.
Anyway,,,flying the piet with David Clark headsets, with an intercom unit
that will accept a radio input.
Any suggestions on a "hand held" that's SIMPLE to use, that I can plug into
that?.
My main need is to switch channels easily, for unicom radio talk. And
hopefully can talk and hear in the wind.
Thanks
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"If you look for a reason not to,,,You'll find it"
Checked by AVG.
3:01 PM
Message 14
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I've seen it mentioned on the list (primarily by Dick Navratril) that 21" harley
rims can be used from late model harleys. I know it's recommended to use the
1" axle size, presumably because bearing replacements can be had for that and
it's a larger axle to take the load. What I'm wondering is, if the 3/4 axle
units could be used with a bronze bushing in place of a bearing. Also wondering
if a 16" or 19" rim would work. There's lots of pairs of 16" rims available
but the 21" 1 axle rims are harder to find.
Tom B.
_____________________________________________________________
Click here to find singles for dating, romance and fun.
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Message 15
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Subject: | Re: love to post this pic |
What a picture Walt, it's what dreams are made of. Where was that at??
Ryan
walt evans <waltdak@verizon.net> wrote:
Taken a few years ago, by my photographer friend in the front seat.
Landing on runway 24, over the lake
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"If you look for a reason not to,,,You'll find it"
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
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Subject: | Model A engine Piet questions |
Hi all you Pietenpol Aircamper experts,
I am considering building an Air Camper and powering it with a Model A Ford engine.
I have a few questions.
1. I am 5 ft 9 in tall and weigh 235 lbs. Is the A enough power to take me and
a passenger on a safe flight??
2. How many hours does the Model A go before it needs overhauled again?
3. Because of my size do you have any suggestions about which fuselage to build?
Thanks
Mike in Iowa
--------
Serve the Lord with gladness,
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=178319#178319
Message 17
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Tom,
Are you planning to make up your own hubs?
If yes, here are a few things Dale Johnson and I discovered............
19" rims work well.
18" rims are very common.
36 spoke rims are much more common than 40 spoke rims.
Steel rims and aluminum rims weigh about the same.
Aquire the rims BEFORE you build the hubs so you can build the hubs to suit
the rims instead of being locked into locating specific rims.
One final comment, the Jenny style gear exponentially increases the "ramp
appeal" of a Pietenpol.
With wooden gear legs and wire spoked wheels, every camera is raised to take
your picture as you taxi past a group of people at a fly-in.
Jack Phillips, Mike Cuy, Dick Navratil, Peter Johnson and others all know
what I'm talking about.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: "tmbrant1@netzero.com" <tmbrant1@netzero.net>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 6:16 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: harley rims
> <tmbrant1@netzero.net>
>
> I've seen it mentioned on the list (primarily by Dick Navratril) that 21"
> harley rims can be used from late model harleys. I know it's recommended
> to use the 1" axle size, presumably because bearing replacements can be
> had for that and it's a larger axle to take the load. What I'm wondering
> is, if the 3/4 axle units could be used with a bronze bushing in place of
> a bearing. Also wondering if a 16" or 19" rim would work. There's lots
> of pairs of 16" rims available but the 21" 1 axle rims are harder to find.
>
> Tom B.
> _____________________________________________________________
> Click here to find singles for dating, romance and fun.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2211/fc/Ioyw6ijm1iNMGJJu1fhJzPsdISkq3EH8agYBfHZPUYZibdym37AOf8/
>
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: love to post this pic |
A few years ago, taken by a photographer friend of mine, who rode in the
front, and snapped that glorious pic, one quiet morn comming in over the
lake at Newton airport NJ. (jump airport)
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"If you look for a reason not to,,,You'll find it"
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Michals
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: love to post this pic
What a picture Walt, it's what dreams are made of. Where was that at??
Ryan
walt evans <waltdak@verizon.net> wrote:
Taken a few years ago, by my photographer friend in the front seat.
Landing on runway 24, over the lake
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"If you look for a reason not to,,,You'll find it"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Be a better friend, newshound, and
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: need advice on radios |
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: hvandervoo@aol.com
To:pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: need advice on radios
Walt,
I have good success with a ICOM A 6 and David Clark headset
Hans
NX15KV
-----Original Message-----
From: walt evans <waltdak@verizon.net>
Sent: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 3:55 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: need advice on radios
I've been putting off buying a radio forever. I know legally I don't
need it. But more and more, I've been haveing confrontations in the
pattern with people who don't see me, and assume everyone has a radio.
Guess it's the new generation.
Anyway,,,flying the piet with David Clark headsets, with an intercom
unit that will accept a radio input.
Any suggestions on a "hand held" that's SIMPLE to use, that I can plug
into that?.
My main need is to switch channels easily, for unicom radio talk. And
hopefully can talk and hear in the wind.
Thanks
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"If you look for a reason not to,,,You'll find it"
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