Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:02 PM - tail wheel (Marc Davis)
2. 12:10 PM - Re: tail wheel (Phillips, Jack)
3. 01:59 PM - Re: From print to jig...how? (Robert Butsch)
4. 06:15 PM - Re: From print to jig...how? (Ryan Mueller)
5. 11:19 PM - Re: tail wheel (Marc Davis)
Message 1
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Has anyone figured the weight of a standard leaf spring type tail wheel as
compared to a
Piet style tail skid converted to a tail wheel. I know there are many vari
ations but I'm trying to decide
if I should keep my current leaf spring or build a the original style. I n
eed to improve my CG picture.
Marc
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Message 2
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Marc, like most things the answer is: "It depends". It depends on how
many leaves you have in your leaf spring, how long you make the A-Arm,
what diameter tubing and what wall thickness. In my case it saved about
1.5 lbs. I also saved weight by going to the Aircraft Spruce
"Homebuilders Special" 4" tailwheel instead of the 6" Scott that I
started with.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marc
Davis
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 3:02 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: tail wheel
Has anyone figured the weight of a standard leaf spring type tail wheel
as compared to a
Piet style tail skid converted to a tail wheel. I know there are many
variations but I'm trying to decide
if I should keep my current leaf spring or build a the original style.
I need to improve my CG picture.
Marc
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Share now!
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: From print to jig...how? |
Mike et al:
Regarding the suggestion that you have a copy of your rib drawing made at Kinko's
and having it laminated sounds like a great idea. However, let me tell you
what can happen if you do.
I lofted, very carefully, the GA30U-612 airfoil and took it to a professional engineering
firm to have a few copies made. I told them that it must be an exact
copy since it would be used on a building jig and the spar locations must be
on the mark. I went to pick up the copies and laid out the copy over the original.
Registering the leading edge on both and moving left to right, I found
that within about 14 inches the copy started to stray from the original. between
the spar locations the copy was off by a quarter inch. I called for the
manager who said he would do the prints on another digital printer and it should
be fine.
They did it again and once again we checked for accuracy. It was better this time
but the spar locations were still off by one eighth of an inch.
I then decided that I would try Kinko's and they assured me they could make an
exact copy. We tried it and it was way worse than the engineering blueprint company.
It would not be such a big deal if it were not for the spar locations. I finally
decided to just use the original under thin clear plastic and am taking very
good care of the jig so as to not harm my original.
If you decide to try the Kinko's copy routine, just be sure to put the original
and the print on a light table to check for accuracy.
Another suggestion would be to simply lay down a bunch of carbon paper on the jig
board and trace the outline and also use a straight edge for the intercostals
and spar locations.
Have fun.
Bob
--------
Robert Butsch EAA 66532
Pietenpol NX45BB (Alpha stage)
In Indy IN
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198217#198217
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: From print to jig...how? |
The simplest way to end up with an undamaged full size Riblett plan, I would
think, would be to just buy two prints. Another $10 and you can have one
print on the jig, and one in perfect condition for reference or what have
you.
Ryan
On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 7:45 PM, Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>wrote:
>
> My mistake, what I am asking is: is there a way to easily transfer the plan
> onto the jig, and keep the original plan intact. I have heard how to simply
> make a copy is not always good, wondering if there is any other way. The
> making holes and connecting the dots is a way I haven't thought of. I guess
> once the jig is made and proven, we don't need the plan, but I would like to
> try and salvage mine.
>
> It seems the easiest is to tape it down, cover with plastic, build.
>
Message 5
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Thanks Jack
On West Coast Piet I see both setups on your plane.
Which way did you switch?
Thanks Marc
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: tail wheelDate: Tue=2C 12 Aug 2008 15:10:18 -0
400From: Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.comTo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Marc=2C like most things the answer is: =93It depends=94. It depends on h
ow many leaves you have in your leaf spring=2C how long you make the A-Arm
=2C what diameter tubing and what wall thickness. In my case it saved abou
t 1.5 lbs. I also saved weight by going to the Aircraft Spruce =93Homebuil
ders Special=94 4=94 tailwheel instead of the 6=94 Scott that I started wit
h.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
t-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marc DavisSent: Tuesday=2C August 12
=2C 2008 3:02 PMTo: pietenpol-list@matronics.comSubject: Pietenpol-List: ta
il wheel
Has anyone figured the weight of a standard leaf spring type tail wheel as
compared to aPiet style tail skid converted to a tail wheel. I know there
are many variations but I'm trying to decide if I should keep my current le
af spring or build a the original style. I need to improve my CG picture.
Marc
Reveal your inner athlete and share it with friends on Windows Live. Share
now! http://www.matronics.com/contribution ______________________________
___________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d=2C proprietary
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error=2C pleas
e notify the sender
immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is p
rohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
orsk - Portuguese
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