Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:49 AM - Re: My method for softening cap strip (Barry Davis)
2. 06:54 AM - Re: My method for softening cap strip (CozyGirrrl@aol.com)
3. 07:37 AM - clean workshop, good tip on rib bending (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC])
4. 08:01 AM - Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending (Ryan Mueller)
5. 08:02 AM - Re: My method for softening cap strip (Michael Perez)
6. 08:08 AM - Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending (Michael Perez)
7. 08:26 AM - Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending (John Hofmann)
8. 08:35 AM - Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending (Ryan Mueller)
9. 08:49 AM - Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending (Dave Abramson)
10. 09:39 AM - Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
11. 10:01 AM - Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending (Roman Bukolt)
12. 10:16 AM - Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending (Bill Church)
13. 10:19 AM - Prospective new builder... (Lloyd Smith)
14. 10:46 AM - Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending (CozyGirrrl@aol.com)
15. 10:59 AM - Re: Re: No clamps on ribs? (Bill Church)
16. 12:21 PM - Re: Re: Motorcycle links (Lagowski Morrow)
17. 02:14 PM - Re: Prospective new builder... (Ryan Mueller)
18. 02:56 PM - Walnut shell blasting (Joser)
19. 04:34 PM - Re: Walnut shell blasting (Jim Ash)
20. 04:47 PM - Re: Walnut shell blasting (Ben Charvet)
21. 04:57 PM - Re: Prospective new builder... (Lloyd Smith)
22. 05:18 PM - Re: Walnut shell blasting (Joser)
23. 05:55 PM - Re: Walnut shell blasting (Ryan Mueller)
24. 05:59 PM - Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending (Clif Dawson)
25. 06:18 PM - Re: Re: Walnut shell blasting (Ryan Mueller)
26. 06:21 PM - Re: Motorcycle links (skellytown flyer)
27. 06:28 PM - Re: Re: No clamps on ribs? (Clif Dawson)
28. 06:32 PM - Re: Prospective new builder... (Jack Phillips)
29. 06:42 PM - engine running like a sowing machine with plugs at new gap (H RULE)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: My method for softening cap strip |
To heck with the cap strips....LOOK AT THAT CLEAN WORKSHOP!!!!
I envy the guys that have the time to keep a clean workshop. I usually
work till I drop and say I'll clean it up the next time I work on
something. I finally clean up when all the phillips screwdrivers (11)
are scattered around the shop and I can't find one.
Keep building every day
Barry
Big Piet Builder
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Perez
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:12 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: My method for softening cap strip
Attached is a pic of how I softened my cap strip. It is a simple piece
of 4" drain PVC, bottomed capped, filled with water. I soaked mine for
about 30 min. nd put directly on my bending jig. I can do 4 at a time on
my jig. I cover the top of the tube when no cap strips are soaking to
keep out saw dust.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: My method for softening cap strip |
In a message dated 8/22/2008 8:49:46 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
bed@mindspring.com writes:
To heck with the cap strips....LOOK AT THAT CLEAN WORKSHOP!!!!
Relax, I am sure it was a staged picture, maybe even photoshopped; he
probably took a picture of the pipe and inserted it into a picture from "Better
Shops and Garages"
...Chrissi
CG Products, Custom Aircraft Hardware
www.CozyGirrrl.com
Cozy Mk-IV RG 13B-turbo
Plans #957 Chapter? big pieces done, details, details
==============================
If you have a "Spam Blocker" that requires
we fill out a form you will not hear from us.
Please do not make your spam problem ours.
I envy the guys that have the time to keep a clean workshop. I usually work
till I drop and say I'll clean it up the next time I work on something. I
finally clean up when all the phillips screwdrivers (11) are scattered around
the shop and I can't find one.
Keep building every day
Barry
Big Piet Builder
----- Original Message -----
From: _Michael Perez_ (mailto:speedbrake@sbcglobal.net)
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:12 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: My method for softening cap strip
Attached is a pic of how I softened my cap strip. It is a simple piece of 4"
drain PVC, bottomed capped, filled with water. I soaked mine for about 30
min. nd put directly on my bending jig. I can do 4 at a time on my jig. I cover
the top of the tube when no cap strips are soaking to keep out saw dust.
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Message 3
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| Subject: | clean workshop, good tip on rib bending |
Trust me Chrissi, that wasn't staged. I think Mike's Piet will be the
nearest thing to have been constructed in a clean
room environment but heck, hat's off to him. My basement or garage
didn't look that clean but I tried to keep it tidy
most of the time. Either way they are built they are fun to fly when
done !
So simple room temperature tap water and a PVC pipe is all it takes to
soften the ribs. Now there's a great idea for
keeping it simple and not having to concoct some elaborate stove-pipe
steamer rig thing that looks like a still.
Good tip Mike.
Mike C.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending |
We added a little technology into the mix on ours. We use dielectric heating
provided by a non-ionizing microwave radiation generator to initiate the
spontaneous formation of small vacuum cavities into the water before we pour
it into our PVC pipe.
Ahem.
Ryan
On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 9:36 AM, Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] <
Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov> wrote:
> Trust me Chrissi, that wasn't staged. I think Mike's Piet will be the
> nearest thing to have been constructed in a clean
> room environment but heck, hat's off to him. My basement or garage didn't
> look that clean but I tried to keep it tidy
> most of the time. Either way they are built they are fun to fly when done
> !
>
> So simple room temperature tap water and a PVC pipe is all it takes to
> soften the ribs. Now there's a great idea for
> keeping it simple and not having to concoct some elaborate stove-pipe
> steamer rig thing that looks like a still.
> Good tip Mike.
>
> Mike C.
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: My method for softening cap strip |
Thank you Berry. I don't consider myself a neat freak, but I do tend to kee
p thing tidy and organized.
--- On Fri, 8/22/08, Barry Davis <bed@mindspring.com> wrote:
From: Barry Davis <bed@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: My method for softening cap strip
To heck with the cap strips....LOOK AT THAT CLEAN WORKSHOP!!!!
I envy the guys that have the time to keep a clean workshop. I usually work
till I drop and say I'll clean it up the next time I work on something. I
finally clean up when all the phillips screwdrivers (11) -are scattered a
round the shop and I can't find one.
Keep building every day
Barry
Big Piet Builder
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Perez
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:12 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: My method for softening cap strip
Attached is a pic of how I softened my cap strip. -It is a simple piece o
f 4" drain PVC, bottomed capped, filled with water. I soaked mine for about
30 min. nd put directly on my bending jig. I can do 4 at a time on my jig.
I cover the top of the tube when no cap strips are soaking to keep out saw
dust.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending |
Thanks Mike. I hope some day, you will see my shop first hand as you guide
me through my building.-
-
I was turned off by what I saw/read about building steamers. I did not like
the fact of open flame or hot plates steaming away in the shop making the
humidity sky rocket. (May not be true, but how I saw it.) Plus it seemed to
be quite the task to fabricate one. Then I saw/heard about soaking in hot
water. The plan istelf says boiling water. (No steam) So my next logical th
ought was: Why not tap water...why does it need to be hot?" So, I riged up
this simple pipe from what I had in the shed and tried it. It worked GREAT!
So, I kept it.
--- On Fri, 8/22/08, Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.g
ov> wrote:
From: Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending
Trust me Chrissi, that wasn't staged.-- I think Mike's Piet will be the
nearest thing to have been constructed in a clean
room environment but heck, hat's off to him.-- My basement or garage di
dn't look that clean but I tried to keep it tidy
most of the time.-- Either way they are built they are fun to fly when
done !
-
So simple room temperature tap water and a PVC pipe is all it takes to soft
en the ribs.-- Now there's a great idea for
keeping it simple and not having to concoct some elaborate stove-pipe steam
er rig thing that looks like a still.
Good tip Mike.---
-
Mike C.
-
-
-
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending |
If you added a flux capacitor, you could go "Back to the Future!"
Do not archive this idiot.
John Hofmann
Vice-President, Information Technology
The Rees Group, Inc.
2810 Crossroads Drive, Ste 3800
Madison, WI 53718
Phone: 608.443.2468 ext 150
Fax: 608.443.2474
Email: jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com
On Aug 22, 2008, at 9:59 AM, Ryan Mueller wrote:
> We added a little technology into the mix on ours. We use dielectric
> heating provided by a non-ionizing microwave radiation generator to
> initiate the spontaneous formation of small vacuum cavities into the
> water before we pour it into our PVC pipe.
>
> Ahem.
>
> Ryan
>
> On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 9:36 AM, Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov
> > wrote:
> Trust me Chrissi, that wasn't staged. I think Mike's Piet will be
> the nearest thing to have been constructed in a clean
> room environment but heck, hat's off to him. My basement or garage
> didn't look that clean but I tried to keep it tidy
> most of the time. Either way they are built they are fun to fly
> when done !
>
> So simple room temperature tap water and a PVC pipe is all it takes
> to soften the ribs. Now there's a great idea for
> keeping it simple and not having to concoct some elaborate stove-
> pipe steamer rig thing that looks like a still.
> Good tip Mike.
>
> Mike C.
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending |
Great Scott! Why didn't we think of that. Skip the building and straight to
the flying...
do not archive
On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 10:25 AM, John Hofmann <jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com>wrote:
> If you added a flux capacitor, you could go "Back to the Future!"
> Do not archive this idiot.
>
>
> John Hofmann
> Vice-President, Information Technology
> The Rees Group, Inc.
> 2810 Crossroads Drive, Ste 3800
> Madison, WI 53718
> Phone: 608.443.2468 ext 150
> Fax: 608.443.2474
> Email: jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com
>
> On Aug 22, 2008, at 9:59 AM, Ryan Mueller wrote:
>
> We added a little technology into the mix on ours. We use dielectric
> heating provided by a non-ionizing microwave radiation generator to initiate
> the spontaneous formation of small vacuum cavities into the water before we
> pour it into our PVC pipe.
>
> Ahem.
>
> Ryan
>
> On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 9:36 AM, Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] <
> Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov> wrote:
>
>> Trust me Chrissi, that wasn't staged. I think Mike's Piet will be the
>> nearest thing to have been constructed in a clean
>> room environment but heck, hat's off to him. My basement or garage
>> didn't look that clean but I tried to keep it tidy
>> most of the time. Either way they are built they are fun to fly when
>> done !
>>
>> So simple room temperature tap water and a PVC pipe is all it takes to
>> soften the ribs. Now there's a great idea for
>> keeping it simple and not having to concoct some elaborate stove-pipe
>> steamer rig thing that looks like a still.
>> Good tip Mike.
>>
>> Mike C.
>>
>>
> *
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
>
> *
>
> =
> *
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | clean workshop, good tip on rib bending |
I did my Capstrip the same way.... I think HOT water just makes the wood
get softer faster. Cold water just takes a little longer. I would fill my
plastic tube with the HOT water spigot of the drinking fountain here at
work. Soak the cap strip for 10 to 15 mins...... then put it in the jig.
done deal!!!!!
dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael Perez
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 8:08 AM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending
Thanks Mike. I hope some day, you will see my shop first hand as you
guide me through my building.
I was turned off by what I saw/read about building steamers. I did
not like the fact of open flame or hot plates steaming away in the shop
making the humidity sky rocket. (May not be true, but how I saw it.) Plus it
seemed to be quite the task to fabricate one. Then I saw/heard about soaking
in hot water. The plan istelf says boiling water. (No steam) So my next
logical thought was: Why not tap water...why does it need to be hot?" So, I
riged up this simple pipe from what I had in the shed and tried it. It
worked GREAT! So, I kept it.
--- On Fri, 8/22/08, Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]
<Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov> wrote:
From: Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Date: Friday, August 22, 2008, 10:36 AM
Trust me Chrissi, that wasn't staged. I think Mike's Piet will
be the nearest thing to have been constructed in a clean
room environment but heck, hat's off to him. My basement or
garage didn't look that clean but I tried to keep it tidy
most of the time. Either way they are built they are fun to fly
when done !
So simple room temperature tap water and a PVC pipe is all it
takes to soften the ribs. Now there's a great idea for
keeping it simple and not having to concoct some elaborate
stove-pipe steamer rig thing that looks like a still.
Good tip Mike.
Mike C.
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
Message 10
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| Subject: | clean workshop, good tip on rib bending |
Oh Yea.....I used salt pieter in my tube and it was soft in seconds! To hel
l with viagra....
Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP
-
--- On Fri, 8/22/08, Dave Abramson <davea@symbolicdisplays.com> wrote:
From: Dave Abramson <davea@symbolicdisplays.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending
I did my Capstrip the same way....- I think HOT water just makes the wood
get softer faster.- Cold water just takes a little longer.- I would fi
ll my plastic tube with the HOT water spigot of the drinking fountain here
at work.- Soak the cap strip for 10 to 15 mins...... then put it in the j
ig.- done deal!!!!!
-
-
dave
-
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
t-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael Perez
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending
Thanks Mike. I hope some day, you will see my shop first hand as you guide
me through my building.-
-
I was turned off by what I saw/read about building steamers. I did not like
the fact of open flame or hot plates steaming away in the shop making the
humidity sky rocket. (May not be true, but how I saw it.) Plus it seemed to
be quite the task to fabricate one. Then I saw/heard about soaking in hot
water. The plan istelf says boiling water. (No steam) So my next logical th
ought was: Why not tap water...why does it need to be hot?" So, I riged up
this simple pipe from what I had in the shed and tried it. It worked GREAT!
So, I kept it.
--- On Fri, 8/22/08, Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.g
ov> wrote:
From: Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending
Trust me Chrissi, that wasn't staged.-- I think Mike's Piet will be the
nearest thing to have been constructed in a clean
room environment but heck, hat's off to him.-- My basement or garage di
dn't look that clean but I tried to keep it tidy
most of the time.-- Either way they are built they are fun to fly when
done !
-
So simple room temperature tap water and a PVC pipe is all it takes to soft
en the ribs.-- Now there's a great idea for
keeping it simple and not having to concoct some elaborate stove-pipe steam
er rig thing that looks like a still.
Good tip Mike.---
-
Mike C.
-
-
-
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List"'>http://www.m
atronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com
/contribution
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
=0A=0A=0A
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending |
Uh! You're supposed to soften the sticks, not stiffen them. Right?
do not archive
On Aug 22, 2008, at 11:38 AM, KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP wrote:
> Oh Yea.....I used salt pieter in my tube and it was soft in seconds!
> To hell with viagra....
>
> Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP
>
>
> --- On Fri, 8/22/08, Dave Abramson <davea@symbolicdisplays.com> wrote:
> From: Dave Abramson <davea@symbolicdisplays.com>
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Date: Friday, August 22, 2008, 10:49 AM
>
> I did my Capstrip the same way.... I think HOT water just makes the
> wood get softer faster. Cold water just takes a little longer. I
> would fill my plastic tube with the HOT water spigot of the drinking
> fountain here at work. Soak the cap strip for 10 to 15 mins......
> then put it in the jig. done deal!!!!!
>
>
> dave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> ]On Behalf Of Michael Perez
> Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 8:08 AM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending
>
> Thanks Mike. I hope some day, you will see my shop first hand as you
> guide me through my building.
>
> I was turned off by what I saw/read about building steamers. I did
> not like the fact of open flame or hot plates steaming away in the
> shop making the humidity sky rocket. (May not be true, but how I saw
> it.) Plus it seemed to be quite the task to fabricate one. Then I
> saw/heard about soaking in hot water. The plan istelf says boiling
> water. (No steam) So my next logical thought was: Why not tap
> water...why does it need to be hot?" So, I riged up this simple pipe
> from what I had in the shed and tried it. It worked GREAT! So, I
> kept it.
>
> --- On Fri, 8/22/08, Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov
> > wrote:
> From: Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Date: Friday, August 22, 2008, 10:36 AM
>
> Trust me Chrissi, that wasn't staged. I think Mike's Piet will be
> the nearest thing to have been constructed in a clean
> room environment but heck, hat's off to him. My basement or garage
> didn't look that clean but I tried to keep it tidy
> most of the time. Either way they are built they are fun to fly
> when done !
>
> So simple room temperature tap water and a PVC pipe is all it takes
> to soften the ribs. Now there's a great idea for
> keeping it simple and not having to concoct some elaborate stove-
> pipe steamer rig thing that looks like a still.
> Good tip Mike.
>
> Mike C.
>
>
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List"'>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
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> href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com
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Message 12
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| Subject: | clean workshop, good tip on rib bending |
Hate to spoil a perfectly good nonsense conversation here, but as I
understand it, the theory behind the steam or boiling water is that the high
temperatures help to break down the bonding qualities of the lignin in the
wood (the stuff that holds the wood fibers together). This allows the wood
fibers to slide past each other, and deform the wood structure. When the
wood cools back to room temperature, the lignin "sets" and holds the new
shape. Having said that, wet wood does seem to be more pliable than dry wood
- but not as pliable as hot wood.
Okay, back to the "stiff wood" jokes.
Bill C
Message 13
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| Subject: | Prospective new builder... |
Well, after returning from OSH a couple of weeks ago after flying out with
my buddy in his 172, I've got a need to start flying again. After some
research and a lot of time spent on the web, I've settled on the Piet as my
plane of choice. I sat in on Mr. Rewey's forum while at OSH and will
probably order his info pack for starters. Not to mention, there's a
coworker who's also interested in somthing of this nature as well. I have
the flying and glider manuals that I purchased a few years back at OSH and I
plan to drop a MO to Michael Cuy for his video and will probably do so for
the Chuck Gantzer (is he still flying his Piet or spending all his time on
the Tailwind?) videos as well.
My first of what will probably be many questions involve the wing
construction. I'd like to go with the 3 piece wing and like the idea of the
built up spar that I've seen. This consists of a ply web with two upper and
two lower caps for each spar section. I like the idea of laminated
construction so there isn't a failure path through a single piece of wood.
Where did this spar evolve from and where do I find the complete info for
it? I've seen plans from Don Pietenpol for 3 piece wings as well as another
source which I'm sure I saved in my favorites. I'm also inclined to go for
the long fuse and build it with 30" as the inside dimension at the aft
cockpit. I'm not the most svelt person in the world. Also will probably
add the door to the front cockpit as well after watching that skinny guy on
youtube try to get into the front pit. I'm thinking C-90/O-200 for power,
mostly for takeoff performance and to somewhat overcome the additional
frontal area incurred with the wider fuse.
Not looking for a speed demon, just a putt around the patch plane that will
cut the cost of the $100 hamburger to around $45 give or take a buck or
two. Most importantly, thanks to everyone that has taken the time to share
their projects on the web to create such a wealth of information for us late
comers.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending |
In a message dated 8/22/2008 12:18:24 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
eng@canadianrogers.com writes:
Okay, back to the "stiff wood" jokes.
O.... Ooohhh now I get it
...Chrissi
CG Products, Custom Aircraft Hardware
www.CozyGirrrl.com
Cozy Mk-IV RG 13B-turbo
Plans #957 Chapter? big pieces done, details, details
==============================
If you have a "Spam Blocker" that requires
we fill out a form you will not hear from us.
Please do not make your spam problem ours.
**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: No clamps on ribs? |
Well, since we seem to be operating on a policy of full disclosure, I better
admit that my idea was inspired by Clif Dawson's wooden clamps (thanks
Clif), so I'll say that my jig was a hybrid of 56% Clif's idea, and 44%
mine. And that would make Glenn's jig a hybrid of 39% Clif's, 31% mine and
30% Glenn's (or is that 40%/32%/28%?).
Now, we just need to know where Clif got his idea...
Bill C
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Thomas
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:11 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: No clamps on ribs?
...and, yes, my jig is a hybrid of 70% Bill's idea, 30% original. ...or
was is 72/28? I lost track. The exchange of ideas promoted by this forum
is very enabling.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle links |
I used these links the same way as Rick. They work fine and are cheap--Jim
Lagowski
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Schreiber" <lmforge@earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 6:22 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Motorcycle links
> Jack and Dick:
>
> Attached are a few photos of how I used drive chain links to replace
> clevises. The chain size is a number 50. Get a length of #50 roller link
> chain, 2 feet should be enough. Grind the pins off and then drive the pins
> out with a punch. The inner link, with the rollers, are scrap, you just
> use
> the outer links. Wherever you normally would use a clevis, replace with
> the
> chain links. As you can see form the photos, you use a clevis pin and
> cotter pin to hold the assembly together, with a washer under the cotter
> pin. You may need to use additional washers to space things out. The
> clevis
> pins for a #50 chain are AN393 at whatever length you need. I think most
> of
> mine where 13's and 17's.
>
> Rick Schreiber
> Valparaiso, IN
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Dick Carden <flywrite@verizon.net>
>> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
>> Date: 8/21/2008 11:25:27 AM
>> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Motorcycle links
>>
>>
>> I'm a bit confused about what motorcycle links to use, and how to use
> them. Does anyone have photos of how motorcycle links are used? If so, I'd
> appreciate directions to a site. Thanks, Dick Carden
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> 7:11 PM
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Prospective new builder... |
Congrats on your choice Lloyd. A couple of comments on...well, your
comments, in no particular order:
I ordered Bill's info pack and the full size Riblett airfoil from him. They
just showed up in the mail yesterday. Absolutely worth every penny. There is
a tremendous amount of useful information contained in it. He also includes
a CD audio recording of his Oshkosh forum (2006, I think it is).
If you consider using the Riblett airfoil, his full size print is excellent.
I taped it down to the jig board last night. It is very well drawn. If you
are worried about paper shrinkage/expansion making the plan not accurate,
his info pack has coordinates that you can use to draw it yourself. My print
was just fine though. The spar to spar measurement was just about dead on,
all the other measurements I checked matched what they were supposed to be.
If you haven't checked it out yet, take a look at the Matronics archive
search engine:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/search.html
Many of the questions and information you are looking for has already been
asked by someone, and you can usually find it there. If not, post a question
about it.
Pietenpol plans can be ordered from the Pietenpol family:
http://www.pressenter.com/~apietenp/
You would need the Air Camper plans, supplemental plans (for the long
fuselage), and the three piece wing plan.
Mike Cuy's DVD is excellent. Very informative and inspirational. He can give
you the appropriate warnings about what the DVD may do to your relationship
with your significant other.
Check the archives about adding a door and widening the fuselage. Adding a
door has been done successfully. If you Google Keri-Ann Price you will find
a set of plans available for that (don't know about availability on those,
but it's a start). Widening the fuselage certainly has been done. Jack
Phillips made his one inch wider, and says that he is glad he did it,
especially for long flights. However it adds weight. Widening a fuselage by
8(!) inches sounds rather excessive. If you are, as you put it, not svelte,
then the tremendous amount of weight you would add to the aircraft would
negate the need for a door in the front. You probably wouldn't be able to
carry a passenger.
If you have never sat in a Piet then you may be worrying about nothing. I
was worried about fit as well, until I was afforded the opportunity to sit
in the Last Original at Brodhead (a long fuse Piet). I fit fine. It's not
what I would call roomy, mind you, but it is comfortable. I sat in Bill
Rewey's Piet, which has a short fuselage rear cockpit, and I know for a fact
that I wouldn't want to build a short fuselage. See if there any Piets
nearby whose owners could be plied with some sort of liquid refreshments
that would show you their Piet and maybe let you try it on. Or you could
always build a mock fuselage and try that on for size. Cheap practice, and
then you will know for sure.
All for now, under the gun to get packed and out of the city (thank god!)
for the weekend. Good luck,
Ryan
On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 12:18 PM, Lloyd Smith <lesmith240@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, after returning from OSH a couple of weeks ago after flying out with
> my buddy in his 172, I've got a need to start flying again. After some
> research and a lot of time spent on the web, I've settled on the Piet as my
> plane of choice. I sat in on Mr. Rewey's forum while at OSH and will
> probably order his info pack for starters. Not to mention, there's a
> coworker who's also interested in somthing of this nature as well. I have
> the flying and glider manuals that I purchased a few years back at OSH and I
> plan to drop a MO to Michael Cuy for his video and will probably do so for
> the Chuck Gantzer (is he still flying his Piet or spending all his time on
> the Tailwind?) videos as well.
>
> My first of what will probably be many questions involve the wing
> construction. I'd like to go with the 3 piece wing and like the idea of the
> built up spar that I've seen. This consists of a ply web with two upper and
> two lower caps for each spar section. I like the idea of laminated
> construction so there isn't a failure path through a single piece of wood.
> Where did this spar evolve from and where do I find the complete info for
> it? I've seen plans from Don Pietenpol for 3 piece wings as well as another
> source which I'm sure I saved in my favorites. I'm also inclined to go for
> the long fuse and build it with 30" as the inside dimension at the aft
> cockpit. I'm not the most svelt person in the world. Also will probably
> add the door to the front cockpit as well after watching that skinny guy on
> youtube try to get into the front pit. I'm thinking C-90/O-200 for power,
> mostly for takeoff performance and to somewhat overcome the additional
> frontal area incurred with the wider fuse.
>
> Not looking for a speed demon, just a putt around the patch plane that will
> cut the cost of the $100 hamburger to around $45 give or take a buck or
> two. Most importantly, thanks to everyone that has taken the time to share
> their projects on the web to create such a wealth of information for us late
> comers.
>
> **
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Walnut shell blasting |
Gents & Ladies, I am in the process of tearing down another Corvair engine. Does
walnut shell blasting sound good to clean the case? Is it something viable?
In the past I have had these cases hot dipped for cleaning but I still had a bunch
of cleaning to do. Thanks for all the help, Joser.
--------
Jose R. Soto
Apopka, Florida
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199980#199980
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Walnut shell blasting |
Not that this really addresses your question, but...
Unless you're talking something different than I'm familiar with, you absolutely
don't want to hot-dip a Corvair case or head. Hot tanks are for ferrous stuff,
not aluminum. If you dip aluminum, the acid in the tank will dissolve it and
you'll be left with a few small ferrous parts in the bottom of the tank, with
the bulk of your part in solution.
Talk to the guy with the tank (and maybe even sample a throw-away part) before
you commit something significant to the process.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: Joser <jsoto5@cfl.rr.com>
>Sent: Aug 22, 2008 5:56 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Walnut shell blasting
>
>
>Gents & Ladies, I am in the process of tearing down another Corvair engine. Does
walnut shell blasting sound good to clean the case? Is it something viable?
In the past I have had these cases hot dipped for cleaning but I still had a
bunch of cleaning to do. Thanks for all the help, Joser.
>
>--------
>Jose R. Soto
>Apopka, Florida
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199980#199980
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Walnut shell blasting |
William Wynne suggests taking them to a transmission shop for cleaning.
Joser, check out his website and check to see when the next Corvair
College is being held at his shop. He is only in Edgewater, which is an
easy drive for you. The website is Flycorvair.com.
Ben Charvet
Mims, Fl
Joser wrote:
>
> Gents & Ladies, I am in the process of tearing down another Corvair engine. Does
walnut shell blasting sound good to clean the case? Is it something viable?
In the past I have had these cases hot dipped for cleaning but I still had a
bunch of cleaning to do. Thanks for all the help, Joser.
>
> --------
> Jose R. Soto
> Apopka, Florida
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199980#199980
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Prospective new builder... |
I was impressed with Mr. Rewey's talk as well. As for the 3 piece wing spar
arrangement, I wasn't sure if the Pietenpol supplement had the solid,
routed-out spar or built up configuration. I'll delve into that further.
I'm going to assume ( I really need to find those Flying and Glider
reprints) that the dimension of 24" width is to the outside of the fuselage
longerons, hence the 8" growth in width @ 30" inside. I'll stop at Lowe's
and pick up some 2x2's and dummy up a cockpit section and see what it would
take to be comfortable for say an hour of flight. I don't see this plane
being utilized for much longer stage lengths than that, except on the rare
occassion if one were to fly out to OSH. I did find one fellow in Raleigh,
NC that has built a Piet. I may give him a call and see if he would allow a
would be builder examine his plane.
Thanks for the suggestions and enjoy your weekend out of the city. I enjoy
living in the country fortunately and commute into our local version of a
"city".
On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 5:13 PM, Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@gmail.com> wrote:
> Congrats on your choice Lloyd. A couple of comments on...well, your
> comments, in no particular order:
>
> I ordered Bill's info pack and the full size Riblett airfoil from him. They
> just showed up in the mail yesterday. Absolutely worth every penny. There is
> a tremendous amount of useful information contained in it. He also includes
> a CD audio recording of his Oshkosh forum (2006, I think it is).
>
> If you consider using the Riblett airfoil, his full size print is
> excellent. I taped it down to the jig board last night. It is very well
> drawn. If you are worried about paper shrinkage/expansion making the plan
> not accurate, his info pack has coordinates that you can use to draw it
> yourself. My print was just fine though. The spar to spar measurement was
> just about dead on, all the other measurements I checked matched what they
> were supposed to be.
>
> If you haven't checked it out yet, take a look at the Matronics archive
> search engine:
> http://www.matronics.com/searching/search.html
>
> Many of the questions and information you are looking for has already been
> asked by someone, and you can usually find it there. If not, post a question
> about it.
>
> Pietenpol plans can be ordered from the Pietenpol family:
> http://www.pressenter.com/~apietenp/
> You would need the Air Camper plans, supplemental plans (for the long
> fuselage), and the three piece wing plan.
>
> Mike Cuy's DVD is excellent. Very informative and inspirational. He can
> give you the appropriate warnings about what the DVD may do to your
> relationship with your significant other.
>
> Check the archives about adding a door and widening the fuselage. Adding a
> door has been done successfully. If you Google Keri-Ann Price you will find
> a set of plans available for that (don't know about availability on those,
> but it's a start). Widening the fuselage certainly has been done. Jack
> Phillips made his one inch wider, and says that he is glad he did it,
> especially for long flights. However it adds weight. Widening a fuselage by
> 8(!) inches sounds rather excessive. If you are, as you put it, not svelte,
> then the tremendous amount of weight you would add to the aircraft would
> negate the need for a door in the front. You probably wouldn't be able to
> carry a passenger.
>
> If you have never sat in a Piet then you may be worrying about nothing. I
> was worried about fit as well, until I was afforded the opportunity to sit
> in the Last Original at Brodhead (a long fuse Piet). I fit fine. It's not
> what I would call roomy, mind you, but it is comfortable. I sat in Bill
> Rewey's Piet, which has a short fuselage rear cockpit, and I know for a fact
> that I wouldn't want to build a short fuselage. See if there any Piets
> nearby whose owners could be plied with some sort of liquid refreshments
> that would show you their Piet and maybe let you try it on. Or you could
> always build a mock fuselage and try that on for size. Cheap practice, and
> then you will know for sure.
>
> All for now, under the gun to get packed and out of the city (thank god!)
> for the weekend. Good luck,
>
> Ryan
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Walnut shell blasting |
Hi guys, I meant the tank where the transmission shop drops them in for cleaning.
I have spoken with WW for the next Corvair college and he said there might
be something before December, I think he said.
I took this engine down today and I cannot tell you how good this engine looks,
the case is very nice and everything came off without a hitch. The heads came
out quickly and I will be sending them either to Falcon or to WW for reconditioning.
All in All this is the best engine I have taken apart. Bob Bentz sold
me a fantastic core, thanks Bob!!!
Ben did you get your wings on this past weekend?
--------
Jose R. Soto
Apopka, Florida
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199996#199996
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Walnut shell blasting |
Joser,
Walnut shell blasting is definitely a way to clean parts without damaging
the aluminum. There are a couple of downsides to blasting crankcases,
however. You have to meticulously clean the case after blasting. This is
easy enough on the external surfaces, but you can count on the blast media
finding it's way into all of the oil galleys and passages. These passages
will most likely be full of old oil or grime, which the media will adhere
to. You can try your best to clean these out, but if you miss just a little
bit or cannot get it out, you risk trashing your new engine. If you still
decided to blast, you would also want to avoid blasting the crankcase mating
surfaces and crank/cam bores.
All in all, chemical cleaning is the way to go. As you mentioned, the
transmission shop would greatly reduce the hand cleaning you would have to
do. I've scrubbed two cases by hand....Super Clean, toothbrushes, a stiff
fingernail brush, etc. It's messy, and tedious.
You can hot tank aluminum cases, you just have to be sure that the chemical
they use is compatible with aluminum. For example, at the aircraft engine
shop I used to work at we had one. All the cases went in there. Rather
caustic stuff, but it didn't harm the aluminum at all. That being said, the
transmission shop is most likely the cheapest and easiest route to go.
Ryan
On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 4:56 PM, Joser <jsoto5@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Gents & Ladies, I am in the process of tearing down another Corvair engine.
> Does walnut shell blasting sound good to clean the case? Is it something
> viable? In the past I have had these cases hot dipped for cleaning but I
> still had a bunch of cleaning to do. Thanks for all the help, Joser.
>
> --------
> Jose R. Soto
> Apopka, Florida
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending |
What do you mean "looks like" ??
I LIKE my sti-----er, steamer!
Some grain, a little yeast, ah, the staff of life. :-)
Clif
When I leave this world I want a drink in one hand, a chocolate in
the other, screaming WOO HOO what a ride!
On the other hand going out peacefully in my sleep has merit too,
like my grandfather, just not screaming in terror like his passengers!
Subject: Pietenpol-List: clean workshop, good tip on rib bending
Now there's a great idea for keeping it simple and not having to
concoct
some elaborate stove-pipe steamer rig thing that looks like a still.
Good tip Mike.
Mike C.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
8/22/2008 6:32 PM
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Walnut shell blasting |
Joser,
That is great that you have such a good core. It sure helps living in a land
without winter.
As far as sending the heads out, I don't believe WW does heads. I'm pretty
sure he recommends sending them to Falcon if you want to get them done. We
have a set of heads up there being reworked right now. We went to the
Corvair Open House Mark and William hosted right before Oshkosh, and were
able to see Mark's shop and some finished heads, heads in process, etc.
Definitely worth the money. The heads come out better than new.
Ryan
On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 7:18 PM, Joser <jsoto5@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Hi guys, I meant the tank where the transmission shop drops them in for
> cleaning. I have spoken with WW for the next Corvair college and he said
> there might be something before December, I think he said.
>
> I took this engine down today and I cannot tell you how good this engine
> looks, the case is very nice and everything came off without a hitch. The
> heads came out quickly and I will be sending them either to Falcon or to WW
> for reconditioning. All in All this is the best engine I have taken apart.
> Bob Bentz sold me a fantastic core, thanks Bob!!!
> Ben did you get your wings on this past weekend?
>
> --------
> Jose R. Soto
> Apopka, Florida
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199996#199996
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle links |
I found them at a bearing supply store locally-I ended up going with 40 series
master links-might ought to upgrade to 50's but I have a feeling the 40's will
be strong enough to rip the aileron horns off the wood.they cost me a whole 60
cents apiece.full master link-not one plate.I intend to use them to connect
my aileron cables up in the center section so that I can remove the wings and
leave the cable up through the pulleys with the center section.Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0014#200014
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: No clamps on ribs? |
Oh, all right! :-) It's not mine either. Since I built my ribs
eight years ago I can't remember ( can't remember
yesterday either! ) just where but I suspect it would have
been an early Sport Av or Homebuilt Aircraft mag.
I'm using chain links also and they look just like those in
Rick's pictures.
Bill is right about the lignin. The reason for steaming
is to soften it while retaining as much of the original
moisture content as possible. If you've spent all that
time and effort drying a bunch of Oak or Ash the last
thing you want to do is fill it up with water again. This
isn't an issue with such small pieces of soft porous
Spruce, Fir or Hemlock. Trust me though, 1" X 6"
of the same species is a whole other experience!
That's it! I'm outa here! Time for my constitutional.
Nothin' like a walk on the Wild West Coast of Wreck
Beach to clear the day's crud. :-)
Clif
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: No clamps on ribs?
Now, we just need to know where Clif got his idea...
Bill C
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Message 28
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| Subject: | Prospective new builder... |
Hi Lloyd,
Why are there 2 L's in Lloyd? It seems one would be sufficient.
Anyway,
I live just outside Raleigh, in New Hill. I keep my Pietenpol at Cox Field
in Apex and would be happy to show it to you sometime. Maybe we can meet
down at Sanford (TTA) with its 6,000' runway or RDU with its 10,000' one and
I can take you up in it. I don't carry passengers out of Cox - too short
and the trees are too tall. Mine will be the Pietenpol that convinces you
of the importance of building light. I weigh 200 and have carried
passengers as heavy as 205, resulting in a blistering climb rate of 100 fpm.
Works fine out of a long runway (or a midwestern airport where there is
nothing taller than a cornstalk at the end of the runway), but tends to
cause fairly severe sphincter-clinch on a short field with tall trees at the
end.
Welcome to the wonderful world of Pietenpols!
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd Smith
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prospective new builder...
I was impressed with Mr. Rewey's talk as well. As for the 3 piece wing spar
arrangement, I wasn't sure if the Pietenpol supplement had the solid,
routed-out spar or built up configuration. I'll delve into that further.
I'm going to assume ( I really need to find those Flying and Glider
reprints) that the dimension of 24" width is to the outside of the fuselage
longerons, hence the 8" growth in width @ 30" inside. I'll stop at Lowe's
and pick up some 2x2's and dummy up a cockpit section and see what it would
take to be comfortable for say an hour of flight. I don't see this plane
being utilized for much longer stage lengths than that, except on the rare
occassion if one were to fly out to OSH. I did find one fellow in Raleigh,
NC that has built a Piet. I may give him a call and see if he would allow a
would be builder examine his plane.
Thanks for the suggestions and enjoy your weekend out of the city. I enjoy
living in the country fortunately and commute into our local version of a
"city".
On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 5:13 PM, Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@gmail.com> wrote:
Congrats on your choice Lloyd. A couple of comments on...well, your
comments, in no particular order:
I ordered Bill's info pack and the full size Riblett airfoil from him. They
just showed up in the mail yesterday. Absolutely worth every penny. There is
a tremendous amount of useful information contained in it. He also includes
a CD audio recording of his Oshkosh forum (2006, I think it is).
If you consider using the Riblett airfoil, his full size print is excellent.
I taped it down to the jig board last night. It is very well drawn. If you
are worried about paper shrinkage/expansion making the plan not accurate,
his info pack has coordinates that you can use to draw it yourself. My print
was just fine though. The spar to spar measurement was just about dead on,
all the other measurements I checked matched what they were supposed to be.
If you haven't checked it out yet, take a look at the Matronics archive
search engine:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/search.html
Many of the questions and information you are looking for has already been
asked by someone, and you can usually find it there. If not, post a question
about it.
Pietenpol plans can be ordered from the Pietenpol family:
http://www.pressenter.com/~apietenp/
You would need the Air Camper plans, supplemental plans (for the long
fuselage), and the three piece wing plan.
Mike Cuy's DVD is excellent. Very informative and inspirational. He can give
you the appropriate warnings about what the DVD may do to your relationship
with your significant other.
Check the archives about adding a door and widening the fuselage. Adding a
door has been done successfully. If you Google Keri-Ann Price you will find
a set of plans available for that (don't know about availability on those,
but it's a start). Widening the fuselage certainly has been done. Jack
Phillips made his one inch wider, and says that he is glad he did it,
especially for long flights. However it adds weight. Widening a fuselage by
8(!) inches sounds rather excessive. If you are, as you put it, not svelte,
then the tremendous amount of weight you would add to the aircraft would
negate the need for a door in the front. You probably wouldn't be able to
carry a passenger.
If you have never sat in a Piet then you may be worrying about nothing. I
was worried about fit as well, until I was afforded the opportunity to sit
in the Last Original at Brodhead (a long fuse Piet). I fit fine. It's not
what I would call roomy, mind you, but it is comfortable. I sat in Bill
Rewey's Piet, which has a short fuselage rear cockpit, and I know for a fact
that I wouldn't want to build a short fuselage. See if there any Piets
nearby whose owners could be plied with some sort of liquid refreshments
that would show you their Piet and maybe let you try it on. Or you could
always build a mock fuselage and try that on for size. Cheap practice, and
then you will know for sure.
All for now, under the gun to get packed and out of the city (thank god!)
for the weekend. Good luck,
Ryan
Message 29
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| Subject: | engine running like a sowing machine with plugs at new |
gap
Went for a flight tonight after work.All was well .No enemy aircraft were s
potted in the area.Cruised the contol zone using GPS to see where I was.Hey
I didn't even fly into the ground while looking at it;that's a first!Weath
er so warm only shirt sleeves needed.Buzzed a friends house and maybe a few
more just for good measure then went looking for enemy aircraft again.Good
job I didn't find any since I didn't have my Louis Machine gun mounted yet
.Gotta find a way to get that thing on before I get shot down!So many thing
s in the way.Maybe if I put it up front for my passenger to shoot.Geeeeeeze
,that's not going to work,not allowed to carry em.Maybe I'll just mount bom
bs on the bottom and scare the hell outa people as I fly over.I'll be a bom
ber instead.I'll need an escort if that's the case!Somebody with guns mount
ed.=0AFlying to the Classic Flyin at the Ottawa Museum this Sunday if the w
eather is nice.But it sounds like rain right now.It's probably remnants of
Fay.Fay always spoiled my fun even as a boy, she wouldn't let me kiss her!
--No fun at all!=0Ado not archive=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
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