Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Fri 08/29/08


Total Messages Posted: 13



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:33 AM - Re: Rear seat install (amsafetyc@aol.com)
     2. 07:38 AM - Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts (amsafetyc@aol.com)
     3. 07:42 AM - Re: Rear seat install (Phillips, Jack)
     4. 07:59 AM - Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC])
     5. 08:20 AM - Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts (Gary Boothe)
     6. 08:37 AM - Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC])
     7. 01:52 PM - T nuts (Clif Dawson)
     8. 03:41 PM - Re: T nuts (walt)
     9. 04:03 PM - Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts (Gene Rambo)
    10. 05:53 PM - Front cockpit cover (Gene & Tammy)
    11. 05:58 PM - sept 13 (airlion@bellsouth.net)
    12. 07:33 PM - Re: Front cockpit cover (Pieti Lowell)
    13. 07:52 PM - Re: Front cockpit cover (CozyGirrrl@aol.com)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:33:55 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Rear seat install
    From: amsafetyc@aol.com
    Sounds easy enough actually building the turtle deck was one of the more difficult and time consuming assemblies to build. Making it removable would add another dimension of difficult. This of course is both the experience and opinion of a non experienced and Annetta fledgling wood worker. I am certain you will get differing opinions from those better and more talented than I. John ------Original Message------ From: Marc Davis Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com ReplyTo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Aug 29, 2008 1:32 AM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Rear seat install Thanks for all the input on how your doing your rear seats. Has anyone made the turtle deck removable to allow access to the tail cone? Seems easy enough. Marc ---------------- Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:38:02 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts
    From: amsafetyc@aol.com
    RHJ5IHdhbGwgc2NyZXdzIGFuZCBEZWNrIHNjcmV3cyBtdWNoIG1hbGlnbmVkIGZhc3RlbmVycyBJ IHRoaW5rIHRoYXQgdGhlIG5leHQgZXBpc29kZSBvZiBNb2Rlcm4gTWFydmVscyBzaG91bGQgcGF5 IHRyaWJ1dGUgdG8gdGhlIHNlbGYgdGFwcGluZyBzZWxmIHN0YXJ0aW5nIGRlY2sgYW5kIGRyeSB3 YWxsIHNjcmV3IA0KDQoNCkpvaG4NClNlbnQgZnJvbSBteSBWZXJpem9uIFdpcmVsZXNzIEJsYWNr QmVycnkNCg0KLS0tLS1PcmlnaW5hbCBNZXNzYWdlLS0tLS0NCkZyb206ICJHYXJ5IEJvb3RoZSIg PGdib290aGU1QGNvbWNhc3QubmV0Pg0KDQpEYXRlOiBUaHUsIDI4IEF1ZyAyMDA4IDE4OjQ2OjM1 IA0KVG86IDxwaWV0ZW5wb2wtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tPg0KU3ViamVjdDogRlc6IFBpZXRl bnBvbC1MaXN0OiBBY2Nlc3MgcGFuZWwgZm9yIGhvcml6IHN0YWIgaG9sZC1kb3duIG51dHMNCg0K DQpNaWtlLA0KDQogDQoNCkkgd2FzIGdsYWQgdG8gc2VlIHRoYXQgeW91IGRpZCB1c2UgZHJ5d2Fs bCBzY3Jld3MgdGhlcmUuLg0KDQogDQoNCkdhcnkgQm9vdGhlDQoNCkNvb2wsIENhLg0KDQpQaWV0 ZW5wb2wNCg0KV1cgQ29ydmFpciBDb252ZXJzaW9uDQoNClRhaWwgZG9uZSwgd29ya2luZyBvbiBm dXNlbGFnZQ0KDQooMTEgcmlicyBkb3duLikNCg0KRG8gbm90IGFyY2hpdmUNCg0KICBfX19fXyAg DQoNCkZyb206IG93bmVyLXBpZXRlbnBvbC1saXN0LXNlcnZlckBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tDQpbbWFp bHRvOm93bmVyLXBpZXRlbnBvbC1saXN0LXNlcnZlckBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tXSBPbiBCZWhhbGYg T2YgQ3V5LCBNaWNoYWVsDQpELiAoR1JDLVJYRDApW0FTUkNdDQpTZW50OiBUaHVyc2RheSwgQXVn dXN0IDI4LCAyMDA4IDExOjU1IEFNDQpUbzogcGlldGVucG9sLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQ0K U3ViamVjdDogUkU6IFBpZXRlbnBvbC1MaXN0OiBBY2Nlc3MgcGFuZWwgZm9yIGhvcml6IHN0YWIg aG9sZC1kb3duIG51dHMNCg0KIA0KDQogDQoNCg0K


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:42:25 AM PST US
    Subject: Rear seat install
    From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.com>
    I guess I don't understand what a removable turtledeck would buy you. The elevator cables exit the fuselage pretty far up and once you get past the bellcrank there is really nothing to inspect inside the tailcone that a removable turtledeck would provide access for. I'm all for access where you need it but this seems like overkill to me. It would certainly add weight pretty far aft and that will aggravate the already tail hevy tendencies of the Pietenpol. If you go by Bill Stout's rule "Simplicate and add Lightness" this change would violate both of those. It is not simple and it adds weight. Jack Phillips NX899JP -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of amsafetyc@aol.com Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 10:32 AM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rear seat install Sounds easy enough actually building the turtle deck was one of the more difficult and time consuming assemblies to build. Making it removable would add another dimension of difficult. This of course is both the experience and opinion of a non experienced and Annetta fledgling wood worker. I am certain you will get differing opinions from those better and more talented than I. John ------Original Message------ From: Marc Davis Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com ReplyTo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Aug 29, 2008 1:32 AM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Rear seat install Thanks for all the input on how your doing your rear seats. Has anyone made the turtle deck removable to allow access to the tail cone? Seems easy enough. Marc ---------------- Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _________________________________________________ or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk - Portuguese


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:59:23 AM PST US
    Subject: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts
    From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov>
    Gary, Time for you to go see your ophthalmologist. My sketch depicts an AN bolt which I did use for that application with a fender washer (non AN) underneath it. They've worked fine for 10 years and 400 hours of flying time. Mike C. Mike, I was glad to see that you did use drywall screws there.... Gary Boothe


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:20:25 AM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts
    Mike, My eyes are fine..it's my fingers that need help! I meant to say, ".did NOT use drywall screws.."! I truly believe in AN hardware - when necessary, and applaud your venture in to the mundane world of Home Depot. Gary Boothe Cool, Ca. Pietenpol WW Corvair Conversion Tail done, working on fuselage (11 ribs down.) Do not archive _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 7:57 AM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts Gary, Time for you to go see your ophthalmologist. My sketch depicts an AN bolt which I did use for that application with a fender washer (non AN) underneath it. They've worked fine for 10 years and 400 hours of flying time. Mike C. Mike, I was glad to see that you did use drywall screws there.. Gary Boothe


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:37:20 AM PST US
    Subject: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts
    From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov>
    Oppss...sorry Gary ! I shouldn't be giving medical advice anyway for not only do I not play one on tv, I'm not one in real life either.....nor am I an LPN, PA, or wheelchair pusher in the ER. What's funny on the horizontal stabilizer is that once you tighten the whole rigging it would seem that those hold down points don't serve too much of a purpose but it sure is nice to have them there. Mike C.


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:52:43 PM PST US
    From: "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
    Subject: T nuts
    That's what distinguishes all ingeniously practical solutions Oscar. No goobering that I can see. Too late for me, I've used drilled head bolts myself. My bolts go through the cross piece which I placed right under the leading edge. There is a ply filler on both top and bottom of the thin part behind the actual "leading edge". The T nuts are just inside the ends of the cross piece so drilling from the bottom was no problem with a long extension on the bit. There is, on top of that area, a 1/8" gusset from 4" ahead of the LE to 4" behind so it's plenty strong enough to hold the stab down. Especialy when you consider the original done with #7 screws. Done this way means no compromise of strength in the longerons. I don't like the idea of 3/16" holes through them. By the way, if you want to screw it just use #8. Don't sweat it, the diameter difference is negligable. Unfortunately I never thought to document this area in pictures. I'll do that next week after I get back from camping with the kids. Well, they're kids to me. :-) I didn't mess with the seat back. It's firmly glued in. I have made access through the bottom as Mr C did. Both seat bottoms are screwed down as there is stuff under them. I am in the process of cabling the tailwheel right through to the bar. It's pretty close to a straight run. It will require only a slight bend through a fairlead. My rudder cables are pretty much straight from the bar, through the seat back by my hips to a fairlead just above the elevator bellcrank then on to the rudder. This fairlead is there only to clear this cable from the top elevator one. Now you know why I'm not going to try to splice the tailwheel cable to it. Could get messy. Besides, what's the diff in weight between a few feet of cable and all that splicing stuff? Clif, off to camp out in the rain. Hey, this IS the wet coast! > > > Shows you what a country goober I am. I just took the tee nuts and gave > the ends a slight crimp in the vise to make them semi-self-locking. A dab > of Locktite (not the permanent stuff) might also do. > > Oscar Zuniga > Air Camper NX41CC > San Antonio, TX > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net


    Message 8


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    Time: 03:41:10 PM PST US
    From: "walt" <waltdak@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: T nuts
    Just to add,,, My tailwheel cables are Nico'ed to the rudder cables somewhere under the seat. They run back to 2 pulleys ahead of the tail wheel, and then down to the the tailwheel arm. The control is fine and the plane will turn around on a standard runway , without falling onto the grass. Very pleased with it walt evans NX140DL ----- Original Message ----- From: Clif Dawson To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 4:51 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: T nuts That's what distinguishes all ingeniously practical solutions Oscar. No goobering that I can see. Too late for me, I've used drilled head bolts myself. My bolts go through the cross piece which I placed right under the leading edge. There is a ply filler on both top and bottom of the thin part behind the actual "leading edge". The T nuts are just inside the ends of the cross piece so drilling from the bottom was no problem with a long extension on the bit. There is, on top of that area, a 1/8" gusset from 4" ahead of the LE to 4" behind so it's plenty strong enough to hold the stab down. Especialy when you consider the original done with #7 screws. Done this way means no compromise of strength in the longerons. I don't like the idea of 3/16" holes through them. By the way, if you want to screw it just use #8. Don't sweat it, the diameter difference is negligable. Unfortunately I never thought to document this area in pictures. I'll do that next week after I get back from camping with the kids. Well, they're kids to me. :-) I didn't mess with the seat back. It's firmly glued in. I have made access through the bottom as Mr C did. Both seat bottoms are screwed down as there is stuff under them. I am in the process of cabling the tailwheel right through to the bar. It's pretty close to a straight run. It will require only a slight bend through a fairlead. My rudder cables are pretty much straight from the bar, through the seat back by my hips to a fairlead just above the elevator bellcrank then on to the rudder. This fairlead is there only to clear this cable from the top elevator one. Now you know why I'm not going to try to splice the tailwheel cable to it. Could get messy. Besides, what's the diff in weight between a few feet of cable and all that splicing stuff? Clif, off to camp out in the rain. Hey, this IS the wet coast! > > > Shows you what a country goober I am. I just took the tee nuts and gave > the ends a slight crimp in the vise to make them semi-self-locking. A dab > of Locktite (not the permanent stuff) might also do. > > Oscar Zuniga > Air Camper NX41CC > San Antonio, TX > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net


    Message 9


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    Time: 04:03:10 PM PST US
    From: "Gene Rambo" <generambo@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts
    Mike: What your drawing does not address is that the hole has to be oversize to allow the T-nut to fit. How did you address this? Leave the hole oversize? Bushing? other???? Gene ----- Original Message ----- From: Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]<mailto:Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com<mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com> Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 2:54 PM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts


    Message 10


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    Time: 05:53:15 PM PST US
    From: "Gene & Tammy" <zharvey@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Front cockpit cover
    Group. I'm starting to think about getting ready for winter flying and I'm considering covering the front cockpit. Covering the front cockpit will cut down on the cool air coming up my pant legs plus will make it into a good cargo area. Wondering if anyone on the list has come up with a good looking and secure covering. I don't wish to reinvent the wheel and will steal a good idea in a heart beat. All ideas will be greatly appreciated, even if ignored. Gene N502R (Yes Oscar, some of us do need to wear more than a bathing suit while flying)


    Message 11


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    Time: 05:58:00 PM PST US
    From: airlion@bellsouth.net
    Subject: sept 13


    Message 12


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    Time: 07:33:43 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Front cockpit cover
    From: "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank@yahoo.com>
    Hi Gene When I have the Ford for power I use the heat from the radiator to heat the legs, When an air cooled engine is up front you should use a snapped cover with numerous snaps on the leading edge of the cover, or you will lose it very quickly.I have done much flying in below zero weather with this combination. Pieti Lowell (Yes Oscar, some of us do need to wear more than a bathing suit while flying) > [b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1554#201554


    Message 13


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    Time: 07:52:04 PM PST US
    From: CozyGirrrl@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Front cockpit cover
    Gene, Have a chat with your local boat canvas & upholstry shop, they have fittings like are used for sports car tonneau covers, they are available in brass or chrome in three flavors, one has a 90 deg turn clasp, one is a pin with a detent and one is you heavy duty snap button. All three will work well with common cover materials. Regards, Chrissi CG Products, Custom Aircraft Hardware www.CozyGirrrl.com Cozy Mk-IV RG 13B-turbo Plans #957 Chapter? big pieces done, details, details ============================== If you have a "Spam Blocker" that requires we fill out a form you will not hear from us. Please do not make your spam problem ours. In a message dated 8/29/2008 7:54:27 P.M. Central Daylight Time, zharvey@bellsouth.net writes: Group. I'm starting to think about getting ready for winter flying and I'm considering covering the front cockpit. Covering the front cockpit will cut down on the cool air coming up my pant legs plus will make it into a good cargo area. Wondering if anyone on the list has come up with a good looking and secure covering. I don't wish to reinvent the wheel and will steal a good idea in a heart beat. All ideas will be greatly appreciated, even if ignored. Gene N502R (Yes Oscar, some of us do need to wear more than a bathing suit while flying) (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)




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