Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:33 AM - Re: Rear seat install (amsafetyc@aol.com)
2. 07:38 AM - Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts (amsafetyc@aol.com)
3. 07:42 AM - Re: Rear seat install (Phillips, Jack)
4. 07:59 AM - Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC])
5. 08:20 AM - Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts (Gary Boothe)
6. 08:37 AM - Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC])
7. 01:52 PM - T nuts (Clif Dawson)
8. 03:41 PM - Re: T nuts (walt)
9. 04:03 PM - Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts (Gene Rambo)
10. 05:53 PM - Front cockpit cover (Gene & Tammy)
11. 05:58 PM - sept 13 (airlion@bellsouth.net)
12. 07:33 PM - Re: Front cockpit cover (Pieti Lowell)
13. 07:52 PM - Re: Front cockpit cover (CozyGirrrl@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Rear seat install |
Sounds easy enough actually building the turtle deck was one of the more difficult
and time consuming assemblies to build. Making it removable would add another
dimension of difficult.
This of course is both the experience and opinion of a non experienced and Annetta
fledgling wood worker. I am certain you will get differing opinions from those
better and more talented than I.
John
------Original Message------
From: Marc Davis
Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Aug 29, 2008 1:32 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Rear seat install
Thanks for all the input on how your doing your rear seats.
Has anyone made the turtle deck removable to allow access to the tail cone?
Seems easy enough.
Marc
----------------
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
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Subject: | Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts |
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Message 3
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Subject: | Rear seat install |
I guess I don't understand what a removable turtledeck would buy you. The elevator
cables exit the fuselage pretty far up and once you get past the bellcrank
there is really nothing to inspect inside the tailcone that a removable turtledeck
would provide access for. I'm all for access where you need it but this
seems like overkill to me. It would certainly add weight pretty far aft and
that will aggravate the already tail hevy tendencies of the Pietenpol.
If you go by Bill Stout's rule "Simplicate and add Lightness" this change would
violate both of those. It is not simple and it adds weight.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of amsafetyc@aol.com
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rear seat install
Sounds easy enough actually building the turtle deck was one of the more difficult
and time consuming assemblies to build. Making it removable would add another
dimension of difficult.
This of course is both the experience and opinion of a non experienced and Annetta
fledgling wood worker. I am certain you will get differing opinions from those
better and more talented than I.
John
------Original Message------
From: Marc Davis
Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Aug 29, 2008 1:32 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Rear seat install
Thanks for all the input on how your doing your rear seats.
Has anyone made the turtle deck removable to allow access to the tail cone?
Seems easy enough.
Marc
----------------
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Message 4
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Subject: | Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts |
Gary,
Time for you to go see your ophthalmologist. My sketch depicts an AN
bolt which I did use for that application
with a fender washer (non AN) underneath it. They've worked fine for
10 years and 400 hours of flying time.
Mike C.
Mike,
I was glad to see that you did use drywall screws there....
Gary Boothe
Message 5
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Subject: | Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts |
Mike,
My eyes are fine..it's my fingers that need help! I meant to say, ".did NOT
use drywall screws.."! I truly believe in AN hardware - when necessary, and
applaud your venture in to the mundane world of Home Depot.
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion
Tail done, working on fuselage
(11 ribs down.)
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cuy, Michael
D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 7:57 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts
Gary,
Time for you to go see your ophthalmologist. My sketch depicts an AN bolt
which I did use for that application
with a fender washer (non AN) underneath it. They've worked fine for 10
years and 400 hours of flying time.
Mike C.
Mike,
I was glad to see that you did use drywall screws there..
Gary Boothe
Message 6
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Subject: | Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts |
Oppss...sorry Gary ! I shouldn't be giving medical advice anyway for
not only do I not play one on tv, I'm not one in real life
either.....nor am I an LPN, PA, or wheelchair pusher in the ER.
What's funny on the horizontal stabilizer is that once you tighten the
whole rigging it would seem that those hold down
points don't serve too much of a purpose but it sure is nice to have
them there.
Mike C.
Message 7
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That's what distinguishes all ingeniously practical solutions
Oscar. No goobering that I can see.
Too late for me, I've used drilled head bolts myself.
My bolts go through the cross piece which I placed right
under the leading edge. There is a ply filler on both top and
bottom of the thin part behind the actual "leading edge". The
T nuts are just inside the ends of the cross piece so drilling
from the bottom was no problem with a long extension on
the bit.
There is, on top of that area, a 1/8" gusset from 4" ahead of
the LE to 4" behind so it's plenty strong enough to hold the
stab down. Especialy when you consider the original done
with #7 screws. Done this way means no compromise of
strength in the longerons. I don't like the idea of 3/16"
holes through them. By the way, if you want to screw it
just use #8. Don't sweat it, the diameter difference is
negligable.
Unfortunately I never thought to document this area in
pictures. I'll do that next week after I get back from
camping with the kids. Well, they're kids to me. :-)
I didn't mess with the seat back. It's firmly glued in.
I have made access through the bottom as Mr C did.
Both seat bottoms are screwed down as there is stuff
under them.
I am in the process of cabling the tailwheel right
through to the bar. It's pretty close to a straight run.
It will require only a slight bend through a fairlead.
My rudder cables are pretty much straight from the
bar, through the seat back by my hips to a fairlead just
above the elevator bellcrank then on to the rudder. This
fairlead is there only to clear this cable from the top
elevator one. Now you know why I'm not going to try
to splice the tailwheel cable to it. Could get messy.
Besides, what's the diff in weight between a few feet
of cable and all that splicing stuff?
Clif, off to camp out in the rain.
Hey, this IS the wet coast!
>
>
> Shows you what a country goober I am. I just took the tee nuts and
gave
> the ends a slight crimp in the vise to make them semi-self-locking. A
dab
> of Locktite (not the permanent stuff) might also do.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 8
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Just to add,,,
My tailwheel cables are Nico'ed to the rudder cables somewhere under the
seat.
They run back to 2 pulleys ahead of the tail wheel, and then down to the
the tailwheel arm.
The control is fine and the plane will turn around on a standard runway
, without falling onto the grass.
Very pleased with it
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: Clif Dawson
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 4:51 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: T nuts
That's what distinguishes all ingeniously practical solutions
Oscar. No goobering that I can see.
Too late for me, I've used drilled head bolts myself.
My bolts go through the cross piece which I placed right
under the leading edge. There is a ply filler on both top and
bottom of the thin part behind the actual "leading edge". The
T nuts are just inside the ends of the cross piece so drilling
from the bottom was no problem with a long extension on
the bit.
There is, on top of that area, a 1/8" gusset from 4" ahead of
the LE to 4" behind so it's plenty strong enough to hold the
stab down. Especialy when you consider the original done
with #7 screws. Done this way means no compromise of
strength in the longerons. I don't like the idea of 3/16"
holes through them. By the way, if you want to screw it
just use #8. Don't sweat it, the diameter difference is
negligable.
Unfortunately I never thought to document this area in
pictures. I'll do that next week after I get back from
camping with the kids. Well, they're kids to me. :-)
I didn't mess with the seat back. It's firmly glued in.
I have made access through the bottom as Mr C did.
Both seat bottoms are screwed down as there is stuff
under them.
I am in the process of cabling the tailwheel right
through to the bar. It's pretty close to a straight run.
It will require only a slight bend through a fairlead.
My rudder cables are pretty much straight from the
bar, through the seat back by my hips to a fairlead just
above the elevator bellcrank then on to the rudder. This
fairlead is there only to clear this cable from the top
elevator one. Now you know why I'm not going to try
to splice the tailwheel cable to it. Could get messy.
Besides, what's the diff in weight between a few feet
of cable and all that splicing stuff?
Clif, off to camp out in the rain.
Hey, this IS the wet coast!
>
>
> Shows you what a country goober I am. I just took the tee nuts and
gave
> the ends a slight crimp in the vise to make them semi-self-locking.
A dab
> of Locktite (not the permanent stuff) might also do.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down nuts |
Mike:
What your drawing does not address is that the hole has to be oversize
to allow the T-nut to fit. How did you address this? Leave the hole
oversize? Bushing? other????
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]<mailto:Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com<mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 2:54 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Access panel for horiz stab hold-down
nuts
Message 10
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Subject: | Front cockpit cover |
Group. I'm starting to think about getting ready for winter flying and
I'm considering covering the front cockpit. Covering the front cockpit
will cut down on the cool air coming up my pant legs plus will make it
into a good cargo area. Wondering if anyone on the list has come up
with a good looking and secure covering. I don't wish to reinvent the
wheel and will steal a good idea in a heart beat. All ideas will be
greatly appreciated, even if ignored.
Gene
N502R
(Yes Oscar, some of us do need to wear more than a bathing suit while
flying)
Message 11
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Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Front cockpit cover |
Hi Gene
When I have the Ford for power I use the heat from the radiator to heat the legs,
When an air cooled engine is up front you should use a snapped cover with numerous
snaps on the leading edge of the cover, or you will lose it very quickly.I
have done much flying in below zero weather with this combination.
Pieti Lowell
(Yes Oscar, some of us do need to wear more than a bathing suit while flying)
> [b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1554#201554
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Front cockpit cover |
Gene,
Have a chat with your local boat canvas & upholstry shop, they have fittings
like are used for sports car tonneau covers, they are available in brass or
chrome in three flavors, one has a 90 deg turn clasp, one is a pin with a
detent and one is you heavy duty snap button. All three will work well with
common cover materials.
Regards, Chrissi
CG Products, Custom Aircraft Hardware
www.CozyGirrrl.com
Cozy Mk-IV RG 13B-turbo
Plans #957 Chapter? big pieces done, details, details
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In a message dated 8/29/2008 7:54:27 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
zharvey@bellsouth.net writes:
Group. I'm starting to think about getting ready for winter flying and I'm
considering covering the front cockpit. Covering the front cockpit will cut
down on the cool air coming up my pant legs plus will make it into a good
cargo area. Wondering if anyone on the list has come up with a good looking and
secure covering. I don't wish to reinvent the wheel and will steal a good
idea in a heart beat. All ideas will be greatly appreciated, even if ignored.
Gene
N502R
(Yes Oscar, some of us do need to wear more than a bathing suit while flying)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
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