Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:10 AM - wood gear legs (carson)
2. 03:02 AM - Re: wood gear legs (Jack T. Textor)
3. 03:15 AM - Re: wood gear legs (Jack Phillips)
4. 06:35 AM - Re: Riblett Print! (Ryan Mueller)
5. 07:22 AM - Tailwheel question(s) (Dick Carden)
6. 08:17 AM - Re: Tailwheel question(s) (shad bell)
7. 08:57 AM - Re: wood gear legs (Gene Rambo)
8. 10:14 AM - Re: Tailwheel question(s) (Don Emch)
9. 10:15 AM - Re: Tailwheel question(s) (H RULE)
10. 10:19 AM - Re: Tailwheel question(s) (H RULE)
11. 04:20 PM - Re: Tailwheel question(s) (Pieti Lowell)
12. 04:58 PM - GN-1 Survives IKE (Mike King)
13. 05:40 PM - Re: wood gear legs (Lagowski Morrow)
14. 06:29 PM - Re: Riblett Print! (Joser)
15. 07:05 PM - Re: Re: Riblett Print! (Ryan Mueller)
16. 08:57 PM - Re: Riblett Print! (Joser)
Message 1
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Hi all
I am about to order the spruce for my gear legs.
The plans call for solid spruce
My question is should I make laminated legs or go solid what have others done?
Is laminating better?
Thanks in advance
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4058#204058
Message 2
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Carson,
Most use ash for the legs.
Jack
www.textors.com
Message 3
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Hi Carson,
I made my gear legs of spruce as did Mike Cuy. Mike used solid spruce, I
laminated mine, primarily so I could make a hollow channel for the brake
line to run through and be hidden. Either way works fine. One unexpected
advantage of laminating is that the lamination lines make it very easy to
tell when you are shaping them correctly to an airfoil shape. If the lines
are parallel, your cross section is consistent.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of carson
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 5:09 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: wood gear legs
Hi all
I am about to order the spruce for my gear legs.
The plans call for solid spruce
My question is should I make laminated legs or go solid what have others
done? Is laminating better?
Thanks in advance
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4058#204058
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Riblett Print! |
Jose,
The case looks nice and clean. Did you end up cleaning it by hand? Also, did
you make sure to remove the oil galley plugs in order to clean the oil
galleys out?
Just out of curiosity, is there any particular reason you removed all of the
head studs from your case? If I recall correctly you had stated before that
your core was in very good condition, and came apart nicely. The lower head
studs are almost always in good shape, since they are protected from the
elements by the valve covers, and don't require removal. And living in the
land of no winter would seem to reduce the likelihood that corrosion would
have eaten away the ends of the upper studs (although I guess there still is
the whole salt water thing). Anywho, just wondering....
A question about your print; what is the text of the notation in the top
left corner? I can make out the first line about 1/4 x 1/2 unless otherwise
noted, but can't decipher the rest of the note. I don't think the print I
have from Bill Rewey has that notation, so I just wanted to see if it was
information that is contained elsewhere in my print, or not at all. Thanks,
Ryan
On Fri, Sep 12, 2008 at 10:14 PM, Joser <jsoto5@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Just received my Riblett prints from Roman! Very nice, I ordered two so
> that I could laminate them and use one on my wall and the other for my
> fixture. Also got my case pretty clean this past month. Roman, thank you for
> your prompt response! Jose.
>
> --------
> Jose R. Soto
> Apopka, Florida
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Tailwheel question(s) |
I'm getting ready to run the control cables aft of the cockpit; I'm also going
to have a tailwheel. The question is what problem would arise if I used a tailwheel
that simply swivels on demand, without being connected to the rudder cables
in any way? Turns using the rudder and/or brakes would swivel the tailwheel
as the tail turned. Or so it would seem to me. I'd appreciate some "been there
done that" experience. Dick Carden
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel question(s) |
I would worry about ground looping in a crosswind.- The tail would probab
ly swing around pretty quick and around you will go.- It would be practic
al if it would lock streight for takeoff and landing.- I've heard a coulp
le old timers talking about flying old locking tailwheels, and landing with
them unlocked by accident, they said it was "dicey".- I would say go ahe
ad and put a steerable wheel on, you'll be glad you did.- We origianally
had a fixed tailwheel ( pretty much a rolling tailskid) and it is so much n
icer with the steerable one.- It was also a big pain in the butt to run n
ew rudder/ tailwheel cables after the fuselage is covered.- So in my opin
ion, save the time and put the steerable wheel on during construction,- I
t won't look bad either, I can send photos if you like, Don Emch's is a fin
e example, ours is simmilar to his, and many others.
-
Shad
Carden
<flywrite@verizon.net>
I'm getting ready to run the control cables aft of the cockpit; I'm
also going to have a tailwheel. The question is what problem would arise if
I
used a tailwheel that simply swivels on demand, without being connected to
the
rudder cables in any way? Turns using the rudder and/or brakes would swivel
the
tailwheel as the tail turned. Or so it would seem to me. I'd appreciate som
e
"been there done that" experience. Dick Carden
=0A=0A=0A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: wood gear legs |
Never seen any side legs make of ash, the bottom piece is, but I think
spruce is better for the sides. I can recommend, as I am sure everyone
else will, that you make your legs out of pine first, because you
WILL mess up a couple of times. I ran some 2x4's through the table saw
to the dimensions and kept at it until I made a good set THEN made them
out of spruce (and screwed up the first try on those as well).
If you want one person's method of making the legs, please feel free to
call me at 202-674-1445. I tried several different ways before THE one
made itself obvious, and was extremely simple.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: carson<mailto:carsonvella@yahoo.com.au>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com<mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 5:08 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: wood gear legs
<carsonvella@yahoo.com.au<mailto:carsonvella@yahoo.com.au>>
Hi all
I am about to order the spruce for my gear legs.
The plans call for solid spruce
My question is should I make laminated legs or go solid what have
others done? Is laminating better?
Thanks in advance
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4058#204058<http://forums
matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4058#204058>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List<http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel question(s) |
I agree with Shad, I'd make it steerable. I've added a couple of links to pictures
of mine. It's pretty simple. Just a 1/2" bolt with the threads cut off
and pressed up through the tailwheel yoke then slid up through bushings in the
'A' frame body. Then a 'T' is pinned on the top for steering. I'm using a 3
1/2" wheel. It gets abused on a regular basis!
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/dscn0380_596.jpg
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/dscn0381_111.jpg
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4108#204108
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel question(s) |
I have a faily large tail wheel;never lock it.I don't even have a lock on i
t.Never had any problem.I land on the mains and then when things slow down
enough I let the tail drop and coast to a stop.-Piece of cake!-=0A=0A
=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: shad bell <aviatorbell@yahoo.com>
=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 11
:16:12 AM=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Tailwheel question(s)=0A=0A=0AI wo
uld worry about ground looping in a crosswind.- The tail would probably s
wing around pretty quick and around you will go.- It would be practical i
f it would lock streight for takeoff and landing.- I've heard a coulple o
ld timers talking about flying old locking tailwheels, and landing with the
m unlocked by accident, they said it was "dicey".- I would say go ahead a
nd put a steerable wheel on, you'll be glad you did.- We origianally had
a fixed tailwheel ( pretty much a rolling tailskid) and it is so much nicer
with the steerable one.- It was also a big pain in the butt to run new r
udder/ tailwheel cables after the fuselage is covered.- So in my opinion,
save the time and put the steerable wheel on during construction,- It wo
n't look bad either, I can send photos if you like, Don Emch's is a fine ex
ample, ours is simmilar to his, and many others.=0A-=0AShad=0A=0A=0ACarde
n=0A<flywrite@verizon.net>=0A=0AI'm getting ready to run the control cables
aft of the cockpit; I'm=0Aalso going to have a tailwheel. The question is
what problem would arise if I=0Aused a tailwheel that simply swivels on dem
and, without being connected to the=0Arudder cables in any way? Turns using
the rudder and/or brakes would swivel the=0Atailwheel as the tail turned.
Or so it would seem to me. I'd appreciate some=0A"been there done that" exp
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel question(s) |
My tail wheel is none steerable as well.Go to the web site where all the pi
ctures and info on the Piets are kept and you see a pic of me in flight-(
C-IOVC) and you'll see what I mean.I can't load in a picture becuase the we
b page won't let me.=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: shad be
ll <aviatorbell@yahoo.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Satur
day, September 13, 2008 11:16:12 AM=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Tailwhee
l question(s)=0A=0A=0AI would worry about ground looping in a crosswind.-
The tail would probably swing around pretty quick and around you will go.
- It would be practical if it would lock streight for takeoff and landing
.- I've heard a coulple old timers talking about flying old locking tailw
heels, and landing with them unlocked by accident, they said it was "dicey"
.- I would say go ahead and put a steerable wheel on, you'll be glad you
did.- We origianally had a fixed tailwheel ( pretty much a rolling tailsk
id) and it is so much nicer with the steerable one.- It was also a big pa
in in the butt to run new rudder/ tailwheel cables after the fuselage is co
vered.- So in my opinion, save the time and put the steerable wheel on du
ring construction,- It won't look bad either, I can send photos if you li
ke, Don Emch's is a fine example, ours is simmilar to his, and many others.
=0A-=0AShad=0A=0A=0ACarden=0A<flywrite@verizon.net>=0A=0AI'm getting read
y to run the control cables aft of the cockpit; I'm=0Aalso going to have a
tailwheel. The question is what problem would arise if I=0Aused a tailwheel
that simply swivels on demand, without being connected to the=0Arudder cab
les in any way? Turns using the rudder and/or brakes would swivel the=0Atai
lwheel as the tail turned. Or so it would seem to me. I'd appreciate some
=0A"been there done that" experience. Dick Carden =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A=0A
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=0A
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel question(s) |
Hi Dick' Ever try to taxi a skid, in a 30 knot crosswind, I think the same result
is going to happen without locking the tailwheel, Dick Alkir, Ohio, had to
walk his skid Piet a half mile at Oshkosh, not an easy task with higher crosswinds
and not worth the risk.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4161#204161
Message 12
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| Subject: | GN-1 Survives IKE |
BlankJust a quick report to let the group know that my GN-1 did survive
Hurricane IKE.
Labor Day weekend I flew via Southwest Airlines from Corpus to Dallas to
bring
my GN-1 to its new home. My luck, a few days later I had to take her to
Alice, Texas,
60 miles west to an old World War II hangar to hide her from Hurricane
IKE that was
predicted to hit Corpus.
It is always windy here along the Texas Gulf Coast and when I left here
to fly my plane
to Alice, I had a 70 degree crosswind at 25 mph. The plane tracked down
the runway
and lifted off with no problems. The east wind helped my groundspeed
reach 95 miles
per hour to Alice. Luckily the wind in Alice was pretty much down
runway 31 and the
GN-1 touched down without any problems. Great plane in crosswind. The
parasol
wing helps.
Tomorrow (Sunday) I go back to Alice to bring her back home. Looking
forward to
flight down the beachline.
Mike King
GN-1
77MK
Corpus Christi, Texas
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: wood gear legs |
Gene, for general info my cabanes and landing gear legs are made of
laminated ash. Four 1/4' pieces for a finished thickness of ~1". The
glue was T-88. The landing gear pieces are overlapped at the bottom,
following a Fly Baby drawing.--Jim Lagowski, ready for a 2nd flight this
coming week ( repairs are complete )
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Gene Rambo
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: wood gear legs
Never seen any side legs make of ash, the bottom piece is, but I think
spruce is better for the sides. I can recommend, as I am sure everyone
else will, that you make your legs out of pine first, because you
WILL mess up a couple of times. I ran some 2x4's through the table
saw to the dimensions and kept at it until I made a good set THEN made
them out of spruce (and screwed up the first try on those as well).
If you want one person's method of making the legs, please feel free
to call me at 202-674-1445. I tried several different ways before THE
one made itself obvious, and was extremely simple.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: carson
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 5:08 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: wood gear legs
<carsonvella@yahoo.com.au>
Hi all
I am about to order the spruce for my gear legs.
The plans call for solid spruce
My question is should I make laminated legs or go solid what have
others done? Is laminating better?
Thanks in advance
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4058#204058
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href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
9/12/2008 2:18 PM
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Riblett Print! |
Hi Ryan, I did send the core to a machine shop for a dip in the hot tank, this
did no good and I wasn't even charged for the dip! My partner in building, Dean,
and I bought some laundry detergent and went to work with a couple of brushes
and a pressure washer, that did the trick. The studs were corroded in the centers
to the point where I did not want to fly behind them, I carefully removed
them and obtained a very nice set from one of the guys at the corvair club
in central Florida. I will install these with Loctite 620. I did remove the oil
plugs and used my rifle cleaning kit and brushes along with carburetor cleaner
to do the oil galleys. Attached is the notation in the left hand corner of
the print. How's your project coming along? Joser.
--------
Jose R. Soto
Apopka, Florida
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4184#204184
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/s7301410_673.jpg
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Riblett Print! |
Joser,
Excellent to hear that you are being very thorough! The detergent (and the
copious amount of elbow grease involved) did a very nice job of cleaning the
case.
I spent the day working on a case that should be the one we build with.
Finally! We removed all the bad upper studs (10 of 12), and they all came
out with no problem, removing
no metal and leaving good threads in the case. I have a full set of good
used upper studs that I saved from other junk cases, which will go back in
with 620. I attacked the halves with brushes and Super Clean. I probably
removed about 95% of the grime, with the rest still in various small spaces
my brushs couldn't get to. Maybe when we're back out next weekend I'll give
the detergent a shot. Our crank has been machined and nitrided. We have
heads up at Falcon being redone, and are just accumulating money so we can
purchase the parts we need from Clark's Corvair and William Wynne in two big
lumps. Other than that, we are just about to start turning out Riblett ribs.
We wish you good luck with your project. Hopefully progress goes well on
your engine, and also with getting some ribs built up. Have a good night,
Ryan
On Sat, Sep 13, 2008 at 8:28 PM, Joser <jsoto5@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Ryan, I did send the core to a machine shop for a dip in the hot tank,
> this did no good and I wasn't even charged for the dip! My partner in
> building, Dean, and I bought some laundry detergent and went to work with a
> couple of brushes and a pressure washer, that did the trick. The studs were
> corroded in the centers to the point where I did not want to fly behind
> them, I carefully removed them and obtained a very nice set from one of the
> guys at the corvair club in central Florida. I will install these with
> Loctite 620. I did remove the oil plugs and used my rifle cleaning kit and
> brushes along with carburetor cleaner to do the oil galleys. Attached is the
> notation in the left hand corner of the print. How's your project coming
> along? Joser.
>
> --------
> Jose R. Soto
> Apopka, Florida
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Riblett Print! |
Ryan, where did you get the crank worked on? I have a machine shop close to the
house and I would like to see where it's at in relation to factory specs. I do
not want to regrind it if it doesn't need it. Also did you send it in to Nitron,
Inc. to get it nitrided? I'm on the same boat you are in when it comes to
saving the $$$ to send it out. I am planning to purchase new cylinders, pistons
and rods from Clark's. Also a new Otto OT-10 cam, lifters and the heads will
also go to Falcon. I'm just anal about stuff (from my days as an electronics
tech with the Coast Guard)! Talk to you soon. Joser
--------
Jose R. Soto
Apopka, Florida
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4203#204203
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