Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:43 AM - Re: China SkyCatcher OT Buy US (Jim Ash)
2. 07:44 AM - Re: Paper cutter source (Michael Perez)
3. 08:10 AM - Re: Paper cutter source/rib question (Michael Perez)
4. 08:24 AM - Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/19/08 (TBYH@aol.com)
5. 09:22 AM - New pictures ()
6. 11:34 AM - Re: Paper cutter source/rib question (Ryan Mueller)
7. 12:51 PM - Re: Paper cutter source/rib question (Michael Perez)
8. 01:42 PM - Re: Paper cutter source/rib question (Ryan Mueller)
9. 02:03 PM - new photos (Gene Rambo)
10. 02:42 PM - Re: Aluminum Fuel Wing Mounted Fuel Tank (Gardiner Mason)
11. 02:47 PM - Re: new photos (Ryan Mueller)
12. 03:02 PM - Re: new photos (Jose Soto)
13. 03:03 PM - questions for group (Gene Rambo)
14. 03:04 PM - Re: Aluminum Fuel Wing Mounted Fuel Tank (Ryan Mueller)
15. 05:10 PM - The "America" (Ryan Mueller)
16. 05:13 PM - Re: The "America" (Ryan Mueller)
17. 07:53 PM - Re: questions for group (gcardinal)
Message 1
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| Subject: | China SkyCatcher OT Buy US |
HF tools should be considered kits, despite the premise under which they're sold.
I tend to do a lot of metal work, and there are always mixed reviews from the metal
guys. There are apparently e-groups for those with the little 7x10 lathes
to discuss the various requirements to turn one into a precision tool. It can
be done, but don't expect it right out of the gate (or box).
I bought their little metal-cutting bandsaw a few years ago but just pulled it
out of the box and set it up a couple months ago. I've used it in both the horizontal
and vertical positions. Yeah, it needs a few tweaks. The blade supplied
looked like it was an exercise from the first day of somebody's welding class.
I threw it aside and bought a couple bi-metallics from McMaster-Call. The new
blade cuts really well in it. For $169 at the time, you can't beat the price.
I don't expect it to perform like a $700 saw, but this is hobby work and I
cant justify the $700 for as much as I do. Sometime when I'm that motivated, I'll
fix some of the less-significant problems.
I also bought their English wheel (with the anvil set) and their bead roller. I
diddled with the e-wheel, but I can't/won't do any serious work with it until
I straighten it out. The adjuster column is poorly designed and implemented (and
loose), and will need reworking to meet my standards. The e-wheel anvils and
bead-roller dies both still have the tooling marks on them, so I'll chuck them
up in my (American made) lathe and polish them smooth. But three years ago,
I bought a 3' rod of 3" dia 4140 with the intention of whacking it up into 3"
chunks and making my own e-wheel anvils and e-wheel. That rod cost me more than
the anvil set from HF, so even if they're not finished, they put me more ahead
of the game than machining my own from scratch. The HF anvils are full-radius
without any flats, so I haven't decided if I'm going to adjust their profiles
or just leave them when that time comes. For the 80 or 90 dollars, I might
just pick up another set and put together a set of each.
Similar stories with similar HF tools abound.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jonathan Ragle <jon95gt@hotmail.com>
>Sent: Sep 20, 2008 1:59 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: China SkyCatcher OT Buy US
>
>
>Oddly after building 2 aluminum airplanes the belt sander, 2 wheel grinder, and
drill press that my dad bought 10 years ago from HF are still going strong.
Total investment: $150.
>
rator wa
s still completely junk and> > was not going to seal up. I boxed the whole mess
back up and we returned it.> > Very frustrating day.> > > > Good luck on your
search for a decent saw. Have a good morning,> > > > Ryan> > > > On Sat, Sep
20, 2008 at 5:10 AM, < wrote:> > > > > Hi Guys,> > >> > > Just today I was trying
to carve my prop. The first step is to horse most> > > of the material off
with an electric chain saw. So I bought a Chinese model> > > from Harbor Freight.
After only about 30 minutes of use, the thing came to a> > > screeching halt.
Investigation revealed that the bearings got so hot that> > > the plastic
housing melted. What a bunch of crap! I should have listened to> > > my old A&P
instructor, L.B. Applegate, when he said "there is nothing more> > > expensive
than cheap tools".> > > Dan Helsper> > > Pop========================> _================>
> >
>_________________________________________________________________
>See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your
life.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Paper cutter source |
Glad it worked out for you. You'll be mass producing gussets in no time!
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Paper cutter source/rib question |
Ryan, I have the Riblett plan from Roman, the 612 type.
-
What I have and it may be shown somewhere on my HINT DVD, is this:
-
Where the rib and the would-be aileron separate, there is a 1/2" vertical p
iece. This is the end of the rib itself, where the hinges will mount. Shown
for location purposes only...not built as part of the rib build.
-
Further back, towards the trailing edge of the rib, is another 1/2" thick b
eam. This one is angled forward. This is the aileron beam and makes up the
front edge of the aileron itself.-Here is where the other end of the hing
e mounts. This is shown- for location purposes and is not part of the rib
build as well.
-
Further back still is a short vertical piece of cap strip, held in place wi
th two small gussets. This piece is only used on the end ribs. (Total of 6
end ribs if making the 3 piece wing.)
-
The whole rib, when built and taken off of the jig will only have 1/2" X 1/
4" cap strip and gussets. The only 1/2" thick piece will be on the front wh
ere the leading edge will eventually attach to.
-
So, on my Riblett, for non-end ribs, towards the rear of the rib, is that l
ong angled capstan that goes from the top of the rear spar to the bottom of
the rib...about 11" long. From that point back, there are no more supports
.
-
As I said, you may be able to see this is my video. The picture at the end
of the video with the rib on the floor...that is an end rib with all the ex
tra braces.
-
Long winded response...hope it was useful.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/19/08 |
Well, my Pietenpol is being built right here in the good old US of A! And I
know that the wood and Model A engine were "grown" here, too!
Fred B.
**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial
challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and
calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)
Message 5
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I have finaly found the time to add some pictures Bill Church sent me of
Brodhead 2008. See http://westcoastpiet.com/brodhead_2008.htm
Also I added pictures taken by Ryan Mueller of Kurt Shipman's Piet .
http://westcoastpiet.com/kirt_shipman.htm
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Website at http://www.WestCoastPiet.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Paper cutter source/rib question |
Michael,
Definitely useful. You have helped cleared my mental block on the issue.
Putting the short vertical capstrip piece in the four root ribs (wing root
and center section) makes sense. However, putting it into the two outboard
wing ribs raises another question.
On Drawing Sheet 5 of the Pietenpol plans (the wing sheet), in the side view
of the aileron assembly, there is a 1/2" vertical brace shown in the aft
part of the aileron. There is a tab welded onto the aileron horn that bolts
to this 1/2" brace. Looking at the top view of the entire wing assembly, it
would appear that this brace runs the length of the aileron, through all of
the "rib ends" that make up the aileron. This brace occupies a position 6
1/4" to 6 3/4" from the trailing edge of the aileron. If the short vertical
capstrip piece is put into the outboard wing ribs, the gussets would
interfere with the 1/2" brace. The brace would have to be moved
approximately 5/16" aft to clear the gussets in that case (and a longer tab
welded onto the aileron horn). Is that what you are doing? I would think
that leaving that short vertical capstrip out of the outboard wing ribs
wouldn't weaken them, as the 1/2" brace would be providing additional
support in that area. Your thoughts?
Ryan
On Sun, Sep 21, 2008 at 10:10 AM, Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>wrote:
> Ryan, I have the Riblett plan from Roman, the 612 type.
>
> What I have and it may be shown somewhere on my HINT DVD, is this:
>
> Where the rib and the would-be aileron separate, there is a 1/2" vertical
> piece. This is the end of the rib itself, where the hinges will mount. Shown
> for location purposes only...not built as part of the rib build.
>
> Further back, towards the trailing edge of the rib, is another 1/2" thick
> beam. This one is angled forward. This is the aileron beam and makes up the
> front edge of the aileron itself. Here is where the other end of the hinge
> mounts. This is shown for location purposes and is not part of the rib
> build as well.
>
> Further back still is a short vertical piece of cap strip, held in place
> with two small gussets. This piece is only used on the end ribs. (Total of 6
> end ribs if making the 3 piece wing.)
>
> The whole rib, when built and taken off of the jig will only have 1/2" X
> 1/4" cap strip and gussets. The only 1/2" thick piece will be on the front
> where the leading edge will eventually attach to.
>
> So, on my Riblett, for non-end ribs, towards the rear of the rib, is that
> long angled capstan that goes from the top of the rear spar to the bottom of
> the rib...about 11" long. From that point back, there are no more supports.
>
> As I said, you may be able to see this is my video. The picture at the end
> of the video with the rib on the floor...that is an end rib with all the
> extra braces.
>
> Long winded response...hope it was useful.
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Paper cutter source/rib question |
Ryan, good catch. I have not looked into the aileron construction that clos
e as of yet. I see exactly what you are talking about.
-
>From what I see on the Piet wing page you mentioned, there are 6 ribs that
make up the aileron. That 1/2" thick brace runs the length of the aileron t
hrough each rib within the aileron. The only rib assembly, as removed from
the jig, with that vertical cap strip in question would be the end rib just
before the wing tip. I see no issue with leaving that piece out all togeth
er and having the 1/2" piece that that runs the length of the aileron take
its place. In other words, you already had the answer...leave out the short
cap strip on the end ribs and use the full length 1/2" piece in its place.
-
Also keep in mind that most people, myself included, use a full piece of 1/
16" plywood on the outer side of the end ribs. This will give you added sup
port as well as a good, solid, flat area to attach fabric. With the piece w
ing, I will need a total of 6 end ribs. 4 of these will have the solid ply
on one side of the entire rib. (You only gusset one side, the other is the
full ply sheet.) These will be the sides of the center section as well as t
he root part of each wing that attaches to the center section. The outer en
d ribs, just before the wing tips, will have the same braces as the other e
nd ribs, but not the ply sheet. Because of the wing tip itself, the fabric
does not get directly attached to the flat rib. The ribs that get the full
sheet of ply need to be made as LEFT or RIGHT ribs. I will be making 2 RIGH
T and 2 LEFT with the ply sheet on the appropriate side of the ribs.
-
Make sense or am I babbling?
-
-
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Paper cutter source/rib question |
Michael,
It makes sense, yes. Thanks for your perspective on the matter!
Ryan
do not archive
Make sense or am I babbling?
>
>
Message 9
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Guys:
I finally got my airplane up on the gear and outside for the first time
today. Attached are a couple of photos (if they work) to show the
current state. I ran out of the right sized screws for the elevator
hinges or they would be attached as well.
I would have made a little more progress before photographing, but
yesterday the firewall got away from me and now I have five stitches
across the back of my knee/calf.
I AM going to make Brodhead next year . . . with or without Mikey's
help!!
Gene
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Fuel Wing Mounted Fuel Tank |
Maybe you can find the drawing for a Tiger Moth fuel tank somewhere.
Gardiner.
----- Original Message -----
From: <boilerup@ndwave.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 4:56 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Aluminum Fuel Wing Mounted Fuel Tank
>
> Does anyone have or now where to get a drawing for a wing mounted aluminum
> fuel tank?
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Message 12
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It's a shame to cover such beautiful workmanship!Great job Gene!
----- Original Message -----
From: Gene Rambo
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 5:01 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: new photos
Guys:
I finally got my airplane up on the gear and outside for the first time t
oday. Attached are a couple of photos (if they work) to show the current s
tate. I ran out of the right sized screws for the elevator hinges or they
would be attached as well.
I would have made a little more progress before photographing, but yester
day the firewall got away from me and now I have five stitches across the b
ack of my knee/calf.
I AM going to make Brodhead next year . . . with or without Mikey's help!
!
Gene
Message 13
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| Subject: | questions for group |
Now that I have gear, I began to look for shock cord. I know I can buy
it from AS&S, but just for temporary use, I had thought that Home Depot
or Lowe's carried bulk cord, but no such luck. For now, I cut the ends
off some short cords and used them. Is there some other source I am
overlooking? I am OK ordering from AS&S, but was wondering, what size
cord are most of you using? Also, Approximately how long is the piece
for each side?
Gene
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Fuel Wing Mounted Fuel Tank |
Congrats, Gardiner, on getting an email through!
If you cannot find a drawing, then just make a mock-up and use that to build
your tank. Once you build your wing/center section, use poster board or
cardboard to build your "tank" in place. Then you have a full size model of
what you need to build.
Ryan
On Sun, Sep 21, 2008 at 4:41 PM, Gardiner Mason <airlion@bellsouth.net>wrote:
> airlion@bellsouth.net>
>
> Maybe you can find the drawing for a Tiger Moth fuel tank somewhere.
> Gardiner.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <boilerup@ndwave.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 4:56 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Aluminum Fuel Wing Mounted Fuel Tank
>
>
>>
>> Does anyone have or now where to get a drawing for a wing mounted aluminum
>> fuel tank?
>>
>
Message 15
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Off-topic, but of interest to those that like antique/classic aircraft....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_1Z_wxA2CY
The Curtiss "America", a replica of the first twin engined flying boat.
Apparently it was designed with the intent of crossing the Atlantic. Twin
OX-5's sound VERY nice!
Ryan
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: The "America" |
Excuse me....OXX-6s....sorry.
do not archive
On Sun, Sep 21, 2008 at 7:10 PM, Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@gmail.com> wrote:
> Off-topic, but of interest to those that like antique/classic aircraft....
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_1Z_wxA2CY
>
> The Curtiss "America", a replica of the first twin engined flying boat.
> Apparently it was designed with the intent of crossing the Atlantic. Twin
> OX-5's sound VERY nice!
>
> Ryan
>
> do not archive
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: questions for group |
Gene,
I'm not sure about alternate sources but NX18235 uses 1/2" cord, about 7
feet per side.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: Gene Rambo
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 4:59 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: questions for group
Now that I have gear, I began to look for shock cord. I know I can
buy it from AS&S, but just for temporary use, I had thought that Home
Depot or Lowe's carried bulk cord, but no such luck. For now, I cut the
ends off some short cords and used them. Is there some other source I
am overlooking? I am OK ordering from AS&S, but was wondering, what
size cord are most of you using? Also, Approximately how long is the
piece for each side?
Gene
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