Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:23 AM - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November! (dralle@matronics.com)
2. 06:50 AM - Re:Adequate rod ends (Lawrence Williams)
3. 07:09 AM - Re: Re:Adequate rod ends (Jeff Boatright)
4. 07:35 AM - Re: Progress Report (Gene Rambo)
5. 08:07 AM - Re: Re:Adequate rod ends (Ryan Mueller)
6. 12:50 PM - see web page below last try failed to go through (H RULE)
7. 01:09 PM - Re: see web page below last try failed to go through (Ryan Mueller)
8. 01:52 PM - Re: aileron stuff (Lagowski Morrow)
9. 03:37 PM - Re: Re: Progress Report, keep going (shad bell)
Message 1
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Subject: | Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November! |
Dear Listers,
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Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 2
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Subject: | Re:Adequate rod ends |
I know that this topic has been beat to death but after all the exotic expl
anations and stress analysis, it might be wise to consider what else could
be impacted by "merely" unscrewing the rod-ends?
-
The Piet in question is already built and for some reason the owner (builde
r?) wants to add some dihedral, so:
-
Assuming a one-piece wing, what kind of a load will this cause on the caban
e strut fittings?
-
Assuming a three piece wing, what loads will be imposed on the butt-ends of
the spars that will translate directly to the wing-attach fittings?
-
Jacking up the struts really does have consequences other than putting a li
ttle dihedral into the tips. I suspect that the loads to the center section
fittings would be a much bigger factor to consider than any cosmetic enhan
cement dihedral might add.
-
Just musing........
-
Larry Williams- XCG,XCMR,EPP=0A=0A=0A
Message 3
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Subject: | Re:Adequate rod ends |
Larry,
Thanks for the note. Sorry that some information went missing. It's a
3-piece wing; I'm not the builder; not looking for cosmetic
enhancement, but possibly more stability.
Why would dihedral add load to the center section attach pointsor the
wing-attach fittings?
Thanks,
Jeff
At 6:46 AM -0700 11/1/08, Lawrence Williams wrote:
>I know that this topic has been beat to death but after all the
>exotic explanations and stress analysis, it might be wise to
>consider what else could be impacted by "merely" unscrewing the
>rod-ends?
>
>The Piet in question is already built and for some reason the owner
>(builder?) wants to add some dihedral, so:
>
>Assuming a one-piece wing, what kind of a load will this cause on
>the cabane strut fittings?
>
>Assuming a three piece wing, what loads will be imposed on the
>butt-ends of the spars that will translate directly to the
>wing-attach fittings?
>
>Jacking up the struts really does have consequences other than
>putting a little dihedral into the tips. I suspect that the loads to
>the center section fittings would be a much bigger factor to
>consider than any cosmetic enhancement dihedral might add.
>
>Just musing........
>
>Larry Williams XCG,XCMR,EPP
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Progress Report |
Guys:
Just finished this week splicing and routing my spars (for one piece
wing). It was much easier than I expected, but I filled a large
shop-vac twice with the sawdust. Now it is getting too cold to be
glueing, so I may have to slide the ribs on and make all of the pieces
to have ready for when it warms up, or maybe a few warm days left this
year?
Gene
trying my best to make Brodhead/Oshkosh next year
Message 5
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Subject: | Re:Adequate rod ends |
A question I asked Bill Rewey led to answer related to that. Until Larry
brought it up I had forgotten about it. On the drawing for his three piece
wing, he shows a roughly 1" gap between the center section and wing panels.
There are offsets bent in the wing attach fittings, to allow them to mate
with the opposite fittings. I believe he also did not extend the spars at
all beyond the butt ribs.
Anyhow, he pointed out that having the one inch gap between the wing panels
and center section (and thusly the ends of the spars of each) prevents the
tops of the spars from contacting each other if you add dihedral. With the
three piece wing drawing that comes with the Piet plans, I believe there is
zero clearance between the ends of the spars of the panel and center section
(I'm not at home, so I'm going from memory). According to what the drawing
shows it would appear that if you add dihedral the tops of the spar would
already be touching, and thusly it would attempt to pull the bottom of the
spars apart. This would put additional stress on the wing attach fittings
and wing attach bolts.
At least that's how it appears. Maybe those who have built the three-piece
and added dihedral can add their experience. But if your Piet has the
three-piece wings built to the plans with zero clearance between the wing
and center section spars, the stress on the fittings and bolts might be
something to take into account.
Ryan
On Sat, Nov 1, 2008 at 9:08 AM, Jeff Boatright <jboatri@emory.edu> wrote:
>
>
> Why would dihedral add load to the center section attach pointsor the
> wing-attach fittings?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff
Message 6
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Subject: | see web page below last try failed to go through |
http://www.kontraband.com/videos/14339/The-Best-Air-Race-Pilot-EVER/
I know this has nothing to do with Piets but this is some flying you just have
to see.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: see web page below last try failed to go through |
http://www.avweb.com/blogs/insider/AVwebInsiderBlog_ViralVideo_KillaThrill_LostWingLanding_199096-1.html
It also has nothing to do with actual flying...well, real airplane flying at
least. :P
On Sat, Nov 1, 2008 at 2:49 PM, H RULE <harvey.rule@rogers.com> wrote:
> http://www.kontraband.com/videos/14339/The-Best-Air-Race-Pilot-EVER/
>
>
> I know this has nothing to do with Piets but this is some flying you just
> have to see.
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: aileron stuff |
Rick, I'll follow up--Jim Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Schreiber
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: aileron stuff
Thanks Jim, that would be great! Do you have any dimensions and photos
that you could share? Walt and Greg I thought you were the ones that had
problems with the riveted and soldered tanks, which is why I did not
want to go that route. When I checked if there was anyone locally that
could weld up an aluminum that I fabricated, I was given the name of the
guy that wants $500.
Rick Schreiber
----- Original Message -----
From: Lagowski Morrow
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: 10/30/2008 8:05:03 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: aileron stuff
Rick, My tank is a Cub tank built by a guy in Cheboygan, Mich. He
charged me $140. He has the patterns to make more. If you want I'll ask
him if he wants to make anymore.
My tank is mounted behind the firewall and holds ~12.6 gallons.
Jim Lagowski, in N.W. Mich
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Schreiber
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: aileron stuff
Thanks John.
I'd like to work on my tank next but I'm trying to decide what to
make it out of. I was going to go with aluminium.We have a local welder
who does racing tanks. His prices were reasonable, but the last Piet
tank he did was around $500 just for labor! I would like to go with
glass, but since I will also burn auto fuel I am concerned about solvent
resistance. When I get time I'll go through all of the posts to the web
site and make a decision, unless someone would like to chime in now.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: 10/30/2008 2:28:16 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: aileron stuff
Rick,
The wings look a bit different from when I saw them, really
nice.
John
In a message dated 10/30/2008 2:54:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight
Time, lmforge@earthlink.net writes:
Well guys here is a status report on my project. Per Dan
Helsper's request I attached some photos of my wing with the aileron
attached. I have also included a photo of drilling the aileron horn
attachment. I used the hardwood block and tube method to insure the
holes were aligned properly and perpendicular. This idea came from
Chris Tracy on his web site. It worked well. This is the same method I
used to drill all of the holes for the aileron hinge attachment screws.
On the wings I still need to put in the nut plates for the
aileron hinges, mount the aileron pulley supports and then run the
cable.
The fuselage is pretty well done, including all of the
controls and cables I have mounted the main instruments in the IP, but
still need to do some more like the engine gages, throttle, carb heat
etc.. I am going to put the fuel tank in the front and that still needs
to be made. The wing center section is complete. My empennage is
complete and has been fitted to the fuselage with the guy wires for a
test fit. Next on the agenda is the tail wheel and the straight axle
main gear.
I'd like to have my Piet done for the 80th in Oshkosh, but
realistically that might be a stretch, depending on how much I get done
this winter. I am also going to use a corvair engine. I have the core,
but I still need to rebuild it. Around Valparaiso (VPZ) we have 4 Piet's
in various stages on construction. All of them will be using Corvair
power. The plan is to rebuild all of the engines at the same time in the
same location with the assistance of our local EAA tech counselor. The
great thing is the tech counselor is rebuilding a Piet and also doing a
corvair conversion. He is also the person who did the restoration of the
Allison engines for the Glacier Girl P-38 a few years ago.
Rick Schreiber
lmforge@earthlink.net
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ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
AVG - 270.8.5/1756 - Release Date: 10/30/2008 7:59 AM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
10/30/2008 2:35 PM
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Progress Report, keep going |
Gene, what kind of glue??- If it's T-88 keep on building.- Dad built hi
s in the winter in an unheated garage.- Just as long as you have a little
electric heater with a fan on it.- Put a piece of 2 mil dropcloth plasti
c over the wing as to cover it with 2ft or so extra around the edges.- Ta
pe or lay a board pipe etc. to hold the sides down, and leave the ends open
.- Put the heater with the fan on it at one end and inflate the plastic l
ike a greenhouse, it will stay at least 70 degrees all night long.- Keep
the glue inside and mix it, then go out glue the pieces on and put up the t
ent.- I used the same process last winter building wings for my Jungster,
worked like a charm, I left the heat tent on for 48 hrs to make sure the g
lue cured, and the temp outside was well below 20 degrees.
-
Shad=0A=0A=0A
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