Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Fri 12/05/08


Total Messages Posted: 19



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:47 AM - Re: Leading edge material (Michael Perez)
     2. 06:07 AM - Re: Leading edge material (ALAN LYSCARS)
     3. 06:41 AM - Re: Leading edge material (Ryan Mueller)
     4. 10:00 AM - Re: Leading edge material (Michael Perez)
     5. 10:09 AM - Re: Leading edge material (Michael Perez)
     6. 11:50 AM - Re: Aileron cable exit/pulley clearance 	blister (Gary Boothe)
     7. 12:02 PM - LE & TE sketch ideas (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC])
     8. 01:11 PM - Re: Leading edge material (Bill Church)
     9. 01:41 PM - Re: Aileron cable exit/pulley clearance 	blister (Thomas Bernie)
    10. 01:45 PM - Re: Leading edge material (Gary Boothe)
    11. 01:58 PM - Re: Leading edge material (Bill Church)
    12. 02:12 PM - Re: Leading edge material (Gary Boothe)
    13. 02:27 PM - Re: Leading edge material (TOM STINEMETZE)
    14. 03:04 PM - Re: Leading edge material (Gary Boothe)
    15. 03:31 PM - Re: Leading edge material (gcardinal)
    16. 07:21 PM - Re: Re: Leading edge material OT (Dortch, Steven D MAJ NG NG NGB)
    17. 10:00 PM - Re: LE & TE sketch ideas (Ryan Mueller)
    18. 11:13 PM - Re: Leading edge material (Clif Dawson)
    19. 11:36 PM - Re: Re: Leading edge material OT (Clif Dawson)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:47:48 AM PST US
    From: Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Leading edge material
    Thanks all. Cliff, I figured it provided little strength, but was curious if it still needed to be some type of "approved" AC grade hard wood or something. I am thinking of buying some 3" half round and planing the flat side down to get to the exact width I need to mate to the front of all the spars. Not there yet, still doing center section, but thinking ahead some.


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:07:55 AM PST US
    From: "ALAN LYSCARS" <alyscars@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Leading edge material
    Michael, What about ripping a length of poplar or maple handrail to fit? Most of the shaping is already done by the mill. Al Lyscars ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Perez To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 8:45 AM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material Thanks all. Cliff, I figured it provided little strength, but was curious if it still needed to be some type of "approved" AC grade hard wood or something. I am thinking of buying some 3" half round and planing the flat side down to get to the exact width I need to mate to the front of all the spars. Not there yet, still doing center section, but thinking ahead some.


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:41:11 AM PST US
    From: "Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Leading edge material
    To second Al's point, here is a post from the archives authored by Mike C., regarding his use of the handrail for his leading edge and baseboard moulding for the trailing edge: "Anyone building wings who wants a quick leading edge piece can go to their local lumber yard and purchase stairway handrail.* I found mine at $ 1.02/ft and bought two fourteen-footers and a 3' piece. (3pc wing). Two cuts thru your table saw will give you the leading edge piece with about 5 minutes of light sanding after installation. I think my railing is douglas fir. I had to shop around some-most places wanted more $/ft. While looking at mouldings, I bought five seven foot lengths of standard pine baseboard moulding and ripped off the top 1 1/4" to serve as my wood trailing edge. (with those 1/16" ply tabs on top & bottom to hold it in place-plans). Mike C. shows the leading and trailing edge methods (sketches and explanation) on his DVD as well, at around the 1hour 57 minute mark. Ryan On Fri, Dec 5, 2008 at 8:04 AM, ALAN LYSCARS <alyscars@verizon.net> wrote: > Michael, > > What about ripping a length of poplar or maple handrail to fit? Most of > the shaping is already done by the mill. > > Al Lyscars > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net> > *To:* pietenpol-list@matronics.com > *Sent:* Friday, December 05, 2008 8:45 AM > *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material > > Thanks all. Cliff, I figured it provided little strength, but was > curious if it still needed to be some type of "approved" AC grade hard wood > or something. I am thinking of buying some 3" half round and planing the > flat side down to get to the exact width I need to mate to the front of all > the spars. Not there yet, still doing center section, but thinking ahead > some. > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:00:34 AM PST US
    From: Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Leading edge material
    Same with the half round Al. I will just be planning the flat, 3" is too large, but as I plane, the width gets smaller. I can also choose between various woods. Not sure what handrails come in, but I believe most are hardwoods which are heavy and I believe the size is too small for what I want to do.


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:09:29 AM PST US
    From: Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Leading edge material
    Understood. I work with Mike every day, and we have discussed his handrail use. Not sure his idea will work with what I want to do. We also discussed my idea for-a new way of doing trailing edges that may prove to be lighte r, stronger, easier and cheaper then the current methods. - I believe handrails are a hard wood, which is heavy. I also believe that it is too small. The reason I asked what type of wood is adequate is because I can choose what type if I do the half round deal. I want it as light as I can go without getting into trouble.


    Message 6


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    Time: 11:50:16 AM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: Aileron cable exit/pulley clearance blister
    Others have put this question to rest, but, just for clarification, the "Swage-it" tool that ACS sells says, ".when using 1x19 cable, use 2 sleeves at each end." Most of us are using 7x19, so, reading between the lines, it appears that 1 sleeve is adequate on other types of cable. Gary Boothe Cool, Ca. Pietenpol WW Corvair Conversion Tail done, working on fuselage (endless metal parts!) (12 ribs down.) _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of walt Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 3:06 PM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Aileron cable exit/pulley clearance blister Naw, one thimble is rated the same as the cable,,,(I think) at 2000#, and the airlerons<sp> have very little pressure on them, Actually, all controls have not that much pressure on them. When I can fly hands off and stick my hands out the cockpit and make the plane go left and right with sticking my fingertips out behind the windshield,,,There's not much pressure there I used one, only, throughout. FFP404, Pietenpol Aircamper walt evans NX140DL ----- Original Message ----- From: TOM STINEMETZE <mailto:TOMS@mcpcity.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 9:44 AM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Aileron cable exit/pulley clearance blister >Nice one Ben -- here is the way I skinned the cat. >Tom Bernie >Gloucester, Mass Tom: Very nice looking exits! I was just wondering, though. It seems like every photo I see of a Nicopress cable end uses a single Nicopress sleeve. If I remember my Tony Bingeliss correctly I believe he recommends two sleeves per fitting. Do any of you list members want to express an opinion on this? Tom Stinemetze McPherson, KS. href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?Pietenpol-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com


    Message 7


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    Time: 12:02:03 PM PST US
    Subject: LE & TE sketch ideas
    From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov>
    I have only been able to read the last handful of posts on this subject but saw Ryan M. mention seeing these almost 2 hours into my Piet video. For what it is worth, here they are for those of you who might be interested. Worked fine. Attached LE w/ drywall screws with pilot holes in both LE and ribs and T-88. Filled 'sunk' drywall heads w/ wood dowels and Shur-form roughed them to the surface of the wing then used sandpaper for final touches. Mike C.


    Message 8


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    Time: 01:11:10 PM PST US
    From: "Bill Church" <eng@canadianrogers.com>
    Subject: Leading edge material
    Michael, I'm having a hard time seeing how a 3" half-round is going to work for the leading edge. By the time you plane down the flat side to match the width of the front of the rib (approximately 1 7/8" wide), the half-round will only be a little over 1/4" "tall". See top part of attached PDF for illustration. At the bottom is a sketch showing how simple this really is (if you've got access to a table saw). Like Jack said, , just take a 1" x 2" piece of Sitka (or whatever suitable wood you choose), and make two angled cuts (approximately 19=B0 and 28=B0). Then, after the leading edge is attached, shape with a block plane. I don't know why so many builders seem to be challenged by this component of the plane. I can't imagine the hand planing taking more than an hour to do. And like Jack said, it will be a pleasurable experience. Bill C. _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Perez Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 12:58 PM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material Same with the half round Al. I will just be planning the flat, 3" is too large, but as I plane, the width gets smaller. I can also choose between various woods. Not sure what handrails come in, but I believe most are hardwoods which are heavy and I believe the size is too small for what I want to do. <mailto:do.@verizon.net>


    Message 9


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    Time: 01:41:47 PM PST US
    From: Thomas Bernie <tsbernie@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Aileron cable exit/pulley clearance blister
    Gary, You will find bending 1/8" 1x19 cable around a thimble very difficult. Regards, Tom Bernie Gloucester, Mass On Dec 5, 2008, at 2:48 PM, Gary Boothe wrote: > Others have put this question to rest, but, just for clarification, > the =93Swage-it=94 tool that ACS sells says, =93=85when using 1x19 cable, > use 2 sleeves at each end=85=94 Most of us are using 7x19, so, reading > between the lines, it appears that 1 sleeve is adequate on other > types of cable. > > Gary Boothe > Cool, Ca. > Pietenpol > WW Corvair Conversion > Tail done, working on fuselage (endless metal parts!) > (12 ribs down=85) > From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of walt > Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 3:06 PM > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Aileron cable exit/pulley clearance > blister > > > Naw, one thimble is rated the same as the cable,,,(I think) at > 2000#, and the airlerons<sp> have very little pressure on them, > Actually, all controls have not that much pressure on them. > When I can fly hands off and stick my hands out the cockpit and > make the plane go left and right with sticking my fingertips out > behind the windshield,,,There's not much pressure there > I used one, only, throughout. FFP404, Pietenpol Aircamper > walt evans > NX140DL > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: TOM STINEMETZE > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 9:44 AM > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Aileron cable exit/pulley clearance > blister > > >Nice one Ben -- here is the way I skinned the cat. > > >Tom Bernie > >Gloucester, Mass > Tom: Very nice looking exits! I was just wondering, though. It > seems like every photo I see of a Nicopress cable end uses a single > Nicopress sleeve. If I remember my Tony Bingeliss correctly I > believe he recommends two sleeves per fitting. Do any of you list > members want to express an opinion on this? > > Tom Stinemetze > McPherson, KS. > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/ch ref= > "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.c om/Navigator?Pietenpol-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > http://www.matronics.com/contribution


    Message 10


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    Time: 01:45:42 PM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: Leading edge material
    Bill, No flame directed at Michael P. (or any builders on this list), but I think some individuals are scared of hand tools! My 7 yr old grandson wanted to know how we fixed meals back in the old days=85..without a microwave. Gary Boothe Cool, Ca. Pietenpol WW Corvair Conversion Tail done, working on fuselage (endless metal parts!) (12 ribs down=85) Do not archive. _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Church Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 1:10 PM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material Michael, I'm having a hard time seeing how a 3" half-round is going to work for the leading edge. By the time you plane down the flat side to match the width of the front of the rib (approximately 1 7/8" wide), the half-round will only be a little over 1/4" "tall". See top part of attached PDF for illustration. At the bottom is a sketch showing how simple this really is (if you've got access to a table saw). Like Jack said, , just take a 1" x 2" piece of Sitka (or whatever suitable wood you choose), and make two angled cuts (approximately 19=B0 and 28=B0). Then, after the leading edge is attached, shape with a block plane. I don't know why so many builders seem to be challenged by this component of the plane. I can't imagine the hand planing taking more than an hour to do. And like Jack said, it will be a pleasurable experience. Bill C. _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Perez Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 12:58 PM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material Same with the half round Al. I will just be planning the flat, 3" is too large, but as I plane, the width gets smaller. I can also choose between various woods. Not sure what handrails come in, but I believe most are hardwoods which are heavy and I believe the size is too small for what I want to do. <mailto:do.@verizon.net>


    Message 11


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    Time: 01:58:41 PM PST US
    From: "Bill Church" <eng@canadianrogers.com>
    Subject: Leading edge material
    Gary, That's kind of funny. I don't know anyone that's lost any digits by using hand tools. But I DO know a few who have lost digits to power tools. _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Boothe Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 4:44 PM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material Bill, ... I think some individuals are scared of hand tools!. Gary Boothe Do not archive.


    Message 12


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    Time: 02:12:04 PM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: Leading edge material
    ...including my Dad. What I meant was that some are afraid that hand tools are harder with which to work.plus they appear to take longer. I'll bet Bernie used a brace & bit in 1929! I gotta admit, I own a brace, along with my collection of hand saws, but I reach for the ol' Dewalt cordless every time! Do not archive _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Church Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 1:58 PM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material Gary, That's kind of funny. I don't know anyone that's lost any digits by using hand tools. But I DO know a few who have lost digits to power tools. _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Boothe Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 4:44 PM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material Bill, ... I think some individuals are scared of hand tools!. Gary Boothe Do not archive.


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:27:52 PM PST US
    From: "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS@mcpcity.com>
    Subject: Leading edge material
    >>> "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net> 12/5/2008 4:11 PM >>> ..including my Dad. What I meant was that some are afraid that hand tools are harder with which to workplus they appear to take longer. Ill bet Bernie used a brace & bit in 1929! I gotta admit, I own a brace, along with my collection of hand saws, but I reach for the ol Dewalt cordless every time! I agree with you there Gary. I inherited my dad's brace & bits and I take them down every once in a while to play with and polish. But, whenever I have any real work to do - out comes an electric drill. That brings up a drilling question... I have to drill several holes through 1" x 1" cross braces on the cabin walls. The holes are parallel with the sides the braces are glued to and only 1/2" in from the side plywood. Any drill I have will not allow getting that close to the plywood without pushing the holes out of square. Does anyone have a way of doing this type of drilling? Thanks, Tom Stinemetze McPherson, KS <SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; more: http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com


    Message 14


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    Time: 03:04:17 PM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: Leading edge material
    Just a thought, Tom=85have you tried drilling a hole (same size) thru a block of Oak (at least 1 =BD=94 thick), clamp hard to the frame, and maybe it will hold the bit where you want it? You may have to start with a small hole (same set-up) and increase to your size. I=92m using that method on all my holes for the metal fittings on the fuse. Gary Boothe Cool, Ca. Pietenpol WW Corvair Conversion Tail done, working on fuselage (endless metal parts!) (12 ribs down=85) _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of TOM STINEMETZE Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 2:27 PM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material >>> "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net> 12/5/2008 4:11 PM >>> =85..including my Dad. What I meant was that some are afraid that hand tools are harder with which to work=85plus they appear to take longer. I=92ll bet Bernie used a brace & bit in 1929! I gotta admit, I own a brace, along with my collection of hand saws, but I reach for the ol=92 Dewalt cordless every time! I agree with you there Gary. I inherited my dad's brace & bits and I take them down every once in a while to play with and polish. But, whenever I have any real work to do - out comes an electric drill. That brings up a drilling question... I have to drill several holes through 1" x 1" cross braces on the cabin walls. The holes are parallel with the sides the braces are glued to and only 1/2" in from the side plywood. Any drill I have will not allow getting that close to the plywood without pushing the holes out of square. Does anyone have a way of doing this type of drilling? Thanks, Tom Stinemetze McPherson, KS Terrific Free generous Navigator and much Web ===========


    Message 15


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    Time: 03:31:11 PM PST US
    From: "gcardinal" <gcardinal@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Leading edge material
    Michael, NX18235 uses redwood as the leading edge material. Very light and easy to plane. Greg Cardinal ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Perez To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 12:07 PM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material Understood. I work with Mike every day, and we have discussed his handrail use. Not sure his idea will work with what I want to do. We also discussed my idea for a new way of doing trailing edges that may prove to be lighter, stronger, easier and cheaper then the current methods. I believe handrails are a hard wood, which is heavy. I also believe that it is too small. The reason I asked what type of wood is adequate is because I can choose what type if I do the half round deal. I want it as light as I can go without getting into trouble. 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D


    Message 16


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    Time: 07:21:51 PM PST US
    From: "Dortch, Steven D MAJ NG NG NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil>
    Subject: Re: Leading edge material OT
    Do not archive. I worked at Colonial Willaimsburg about 18 years ago as an assistant "rural carpernter". They would not hire a carpenter who had used modern tools. It was easier to teach someone from scratch how to use a brace and bit than to try to reprogram someone whose first thot was "boy my skillcraft could do this fast!" They taught from old texts so that the first thot was to make it the 1750s way and not the modern way. Having said that the master carpenters were pretty fast. No time spent charging or changing batteries, Pick up the tool and go to work. Now for a minor history lesson: About1750 a tool revolution began. Before 1750 the craftsman had a few tools and used his expertise to create a piece of furnature. The old Way was complex skills for Simple Tools A Modern Analogy: Skilled Tradesmen such as a Machinest, or electrician. Or even an General aviation A&P. The newer way was with less-skilled workers or unskilled Workers using one process, again and again By 1850 the worker had many tools that did specific jobs, less expertise was required pick up the tool and it would make the right shape. Such as a Ford worker who only hangs doors or Cessna workers who hang wings. I guess homebuilders are more related to the former than the latter. Tuition can be paid at the door. ----- Original Message ----- From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material > Bill, > > > > No flame directed at Michael P. (or any builders on this list), > but I think > some individuals are scared of hand tools! My 7 yr old grandson > wanted to > know how we fixed meals back in the old days..without a microwave. > > > > Gary Boothe > > Cool, Ca. > > Pietenpol > > WW Corvair Conversion > > Tail done, working on fuselage (endless metal parts!) > > (12 ribs down) > > > > Do not archive. > > _____ > > From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of > Bill Church > Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 1:10 PM > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material > > > > Michael, > > > > I'm having a hard time seeing how a 3" half-round is going to work > for the > leading edge. By the time you plane down the flat side to match > the width of > the front of the rib (approximately 1 7/8" wide), the half-round > will only > be a little over 1/4" "tall". See top part of attached PDF for > illustration. > At the bottom is a sketch showing how simple this really is (if > you've got > access to a table saw). Like Jack said, , just take a 1" x 2" > piece of Sitka > (or whatever suitable wood you choose), and make two angled cuts > (approximately 19 and 28). Then, after the leading edge is > attached, shape > with a block plane. > > > > I don't know why so many builders seem to be challenged by this > component of > the plane. I can't imagine the hand planing taking more than an > hour to do. > And like Jack said, it will be a pleasurable experience. > > > > Bill C. > > > > > > _____ > > From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of > MichaelPerez > Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 12:58 PM > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material > > > Same with the half round Al. I will just be planning the flat, 3" > is too > large, but as I plane, the width gets smaller. I can also choose > betweenvarious woods. Not sure what handrails come in, but I > believe most are > hardwoods which are heavy and I believe the size is too small for > what I > want to do. <mailto:do.@verizon.net> > > >


    Message 17


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    Time: 10:00:17 PM PST US
    From: "Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: LE & TE sketch ideas
    Thanks for posting the drawings Mike! Ryan do not archive On Fri, Dec 5, 2008 at 1:59 PM, Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] < Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov> wrote: > I have only been able to read the last handful of posts on this > subject but saw Ryan M. mention seeing these almost 2 hours into my Piet > video. For what it is worth, here they are for those of you who might be > interested. Worked fine. Attached LE w/ drywall screws with pilot holes > in both LE and ribs and T-88. Filled 'sunk' drywall heads w/ wood dowels > and Shur-form roughed them to the surface of the wing then used sandpaper > for final touches. > Mike C. >


    Message 18


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    Time: 11:13:43 PM PST US
    From: "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: Leading edge material
    That's a good start. Now go get a long bit. It will be bendy. The block will hold it straight and the length between the drill and the block can be bent by holding the drill at the required angle to force an arc in the shaft. I've got 3/16" and 1/4" ones 12" long Another option would be those bits with 1/4" hex ends. Plug that into one of those bendable screwdriver extensions. Clif Just a thought, Tom.have you tried drilling a hole (same size) thru a block of Oak (at least 1 =BD" thick), clamp hard to the frame, and maybe it will hold the bit where you want it? You may have to start with a small hole (same set-up) and increase to your size. I'm using that method on all my holes for the metal fittings on the fuse. Gary Boothe Cool, Ca. Pietenpol WW Corvair Conversion Tail done, working on fuselage (endless metal parts!) (12 ribs down.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----


    Message 19


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    Time: 11:36:38 PM PST US
    From: "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: Leading edge material OT
    Yes, I think so too. Some things, like roughing close to a shape, I do with power. The fine finishing I do by hand. The thing with power in hand held tools like routers, planers, sanders and saws is that they don't stop turning when you stop moving. It's way too easy to go too far, to gouge or mis-shape the part. When hand sanding or planing, you stop and the cutting stops. The most important thing is to have SHARP cutting edges. That's another whole learning experience right there. I use water stones myself. Many good woodworkers now use various grades of sandpaper glued to flat surfaces. This subject is the Holy Grail of craftsmen. It can start more fights than politics. So you're a D major are you. I'm an F# minor pentatonic myself. :-) Clif ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dortch, Steven D MAJ NG NG NGB" Do not archive. > Having said that the master carpenters were pretty fast. No time spent > charging or changing batteries, Pick up the tool and go to work. Such as a Ford worker who only hangs doors > > I guess homebuilders are more related to the former than the latter. >




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