Today's Message Index:
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1. 06:37 AM - Re: Re: Alternative epoxy varnish (Michael Perez)
2. 01:16 PM - Re: aileron nut plates, (walt)
3. 01:59 PM - tapping the nutplates--right Walt ! (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC])
4. 03:23 PM - Tail surfaces (Michael Perez)
5. 03:38 PM - what AN numbers for turnkuckles? (Ben Williams)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative epoxy varnish |
Thanks Jim! Very good info in that responce.
-
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: aileron nut plates, |
Mike
Don't know if you had this problem.
I used the floating nut plates where the threaded barrel is slightly
squeezed to keep screw from working loose.
I found that in order to screw the screw into the plate, lots of force was
needed. too much twisting force for the wood screws to hold.
Lucky I found this out before assy. The nut plate would have torn out inside
the covered wing.
I had to run a tap through the nutplate, Kind of defeating the perpose of
the crush, but allowing the smooth assy . Then used loc-tite on the threads
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <Michael.D.Cuy@nasa.gov>
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 1:28 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: aileron nut plates,
Mike,
I simply wood screwed my nutplate 'ears' into the wood using a dab of epoxy
in the holes
after the initial 'dry' installation was complete. I used small countersunk
head machine
screws in my alum. piano hinge to match the nutplate threads. Floating
nutplates
are more forgiving for fastener/screw alignment but the fixed one are a bit
cheaper I believe and work
fine too. No need to over-do the spacing on your aileron anchor points. I
believe I have
about 7 ea. per hinge faces.
Mike C.
Message 3
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| Subject: | tapping the nutplates--right Walt ! |
>I had to run a tap through the nutplate, Kind of defeating the
but allowing the smooth assy . Then >used loc-tite on the threads walt evans NX140DL
Walt, group--exactly right !!! That is why I dry-fit EVERYTHING before cover
to find
these kinds of things wayyy ahead of time.
To some of the newer builders on the list it is a very good practice to not cover
anything
until the entire airplane has been assembled in the skeleton form and this includes
all
control cables, rigging, struts, brace wires, you name it--the whole enchilada
and you'll
save yourself mucho-grande in fixing things or making adjustments while you can
get to
everything without the $ covering on there. Just my 2cents worth with a 2 cent
discount.
Mike C. in Ohio
Message 4
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Looking ahead to the tail section, it appears that the wood pieces have dif
ferent body thicknesses. I would assume this is to give a slight "airfoil"
shape...why? Why not flat?
-
Second, if you have this curve on the horiz. stab., then how do you fit the
vert. fin? Curve the bottom of the fin, or just use shims? I don't know wh
y it would be designed with a flat bottom vert. stab. to mate with a curved
horiz. stab.
Message 5
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| Subject: | what AN numbers for turnkuckles? |
Pietenfolk,
I'm building the one piece wing. Which turnbuckles (AN numbers) do I
get for the inside of the wing?
Also, I'd like to read any opinions anyone has on these wheels-tires-breaks:
http://store.leadingedgeairfoils.com/product_info.php?products_id=13783
Thanks,
Ben Williams
Daly City, CA
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