Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:18 AM - cabane bracing (Douwe Blumberg)
2. 06:34 AM - Re: Multi-master tool knock-off (AMsafetyC@aol.com)
3. 06:37 AM - Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the concave (jimd)
4. 07:06 AM - Re: Multi-master tool knock-off (Kirk Huizenga)
5. 07:20 AM - Re: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the concave (Phillips, Jack)
6. 07:38 AM - Re: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the concave (Michael Perez)
7. 07:49 AM - Re: cutting stainless steel -(was Multi-master tool knock-off) (Bill Church)
8. 08:35 AM - Re: Re: cutting stainless steel -(was Multi-master tool knock-off) (Kevin McDonald)
9. 09:12 AM - Re: cabane brace struts (Roman Bukolt)
10. 09:13 AM - Re: cabane brace struts (Roman Bukolt)
11. 10:20 AM - Re: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the concave (jimd)
12. 11:11 AM - Re: cabane brace struts (Bill Church)
13. 11:16 AM - Re: High Res image of the Aerial Pietenpol? (jimd)
14. 11:51 AM - Re: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the concave (Ben Charvet)
15. 03:08 PM - Re: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the concave (Peter W Johnson)
16. 04:21 PM - Re: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the concav (jimd)
17. 04:40 PM - Re: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the concav (jimd)
18. 06:25 PM - Re: Re: cutting stainless steel -(was Multi-master tool knock-off) (Clif Dawson)
19. 07:02 PM - Re: cabane brace struts (Clif Dawson)
20. 07:16 PM - 80th Anniversary Fly-in at OSH (gcardinal)
21. 11:14 PM - cabane brace struts (Lawrence Williams)
Message 1
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Hello all!
Been watching the talk about center section shifting in the event of a quick
decelleration, and about cabane bracing with interest.
It seems to me that, as has been wisely pointed out, we cannot build these
planes to withstand all these eventualities or they'd never fly, and that
crash prevention is worsh a million ounces of crash protection. However, if
there are small tweaks that can be accomplished without adding weight that
might help, why not? It also seems to me that one 1/8" forward bracing
cable would help tremendously. So go ahead and use the brace struts, but
why not also add the forward angled cable of the original "X" bracing on the
starbord side of the passenger's cockpit? I'll bet it wouldn't interfere
that much with passenger ingress and egress, and would help substantially
resisting forward movement of the center section.
$.02
Hope you're all well!
Douwe
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| Subject: | Re: Multi-master tool knock-off |
Pretty neat demo, I wonder if it is capable of cutting 12 ga 301 stainless
steel? I have a bunch I need to cut for certain fittings and right now I
don't have anything in my shop that will do a nice clean neat job of it.
John
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
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| Subject: | Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the concave |
I am getting fairly close to being ready to start covering my wings and have a
fairly pietenpol specific covering question. The bottom of the wings are concave,
which has me wondering how to cover them right.
Normally you bring all the fabric (top and bottom) to full shrink, then rib lace.
However that would make the fabric way to tight on the bottom.
Do you just do the bottom with about 250 degrees for a first shrink, and the top
to full shrink then pull up the fabric to the bottom of the ribs?
What works well? I have three different sets of covering books, a tape and dvd
set and none of them discuss concave bottoms of wings like ours have.
Jim D.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232931#232931
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| Subject: | Re: Multi-master tool knock-off |
Check out
http://www.moto.aero/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=73:oscillating-tools-comparison&catid=51:tinkererlinksresources
Kirk
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| Subject: | Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the |
concave
Hi Jim,
This is a good question, and I wish I had written down exactly what I
did. As it is, you will have to trust my memory. I am making a big
assumption that you are using the Polyfiber (Stits) process, which is
what I did. I can speak to it and will describe what I did with their
products - YMMV.
1. First, before covering, paint the rib capstrips with PolyTak and let
it dry. This will give a base that when exposed to MEK will soak
through the fabric and help to firmly attach it to the rib.
2. Cover the wing as per the manual until you get to the section where
it is time to tauten the fabric. Paint the fabric over each rib with a
thin stripe of PolyTak and work it into the fabric with the brush to get
the PolyTak on the capstrip to dissolve and bnd to the fabric.
3. Tauten the fabric, top and bottom, to 225deg. F. This will begin to
shrink the fabric, but should not tauten it enough to break the PolyTak
bond with the rib capstrips.
4. Paint a 2" wide stripe of PolyBrush over each rib, 2 coats.
5. Apply the rib reinforcing tape over each capstrip
6. Be sure you paint a couple coats of polybrush onto these tapes
before riblacing. If you don't get the tapes saturated with polybrush,
when you put the pinked tape over the rib lacing you will find that
these tapes will suck all the polybrush out of the pinked tape and cause
bubbles and poor bonding. They take a LOT of polybrush.
7. Rib lace as you normally would.
8. Now go back and tauten the fabric to 250 degrees and then 350
ddegrees
9. Apply two coats of PolyBrush to the entire wing, then add pinked
tape and everything else is as per the normal process.
If you are using Polyfiber, I strongly recommend that you buy from
Aircraft Technical Support,in Ohio. Jim and Dondi Miller have run this
company for years and I found them very helpful in answering questions
that I couldn't get from PolyFiber. http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/
I hope this helps,
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jimd
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 9:37 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you
handle the concave
I am getting fairly close to being ready to start covering my wings and
have a fairly pietenpol specific covering question. The bottom of the
wings are concave, which has me wondering how to cover them right.
Normally you bring all the fabric (top and bottom) to full shrink, then
rib lace. However that would make the fabric way to tight on the bottom.
Do you just do the bottom with about 250 degrees for a first shrink, and
the top to full shrink then pull up the fabric to the bottom of the
ribs?
What works well? I have three different sets of covering books, a tape
and dvd set and none of them discuss concave bottoms of wings like ours
have.
Jim D.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232931#232931
_________________________________________________
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the |
concave
>From what Jack said, it seems that you would glue down the fabric to the ribs
then heat the fabric enough to get a smooth wrinkle free wing. Rib stitch to hold
secure to the rib cap strips, then finish shrinking. Sound right? I may be
getting into covering my wings this summer!
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: cutting stainless steel -(was Multi-master tool knock-off) |
John,
I don't think you'd want to try cutting 12ga stainless steel with a
little tool like a Multi-Master. They are a pretty cool tool, and great
for certain applications, but cutting heavy gauge stainless steel is not
what they're made for. You would take forever, and likely wear out the
tool.
If you have a few simple cuts, that are straight lines, you can use a 4
1/2" angle grinder and a thin metal-cutting disc. The disc should be
only about .04" (1mm) thick. I think most building supply places carry
them now. Make sure to use eye protection, as sparks will fly. scribe
the outline of the part on the metal, clamp it to a secure table, and
cut just outside the lines. Follow up with finer grinding discs to
produce a smooth edge. Also a variable speed jig-saw with a proper
bi-metallic blade will work to (slowly) do the initial cutting.
Stainless steel needs to be drilled or sawn at low speeds to prevent
localized hardening of the metal and rapid dulling of the cutting tool.
You say you have "a bunch" that you need to cut. If you have a lot of
cuts, or complicated shapes, you might be better off taking your
stainless steel to a shop that has a proper shear (for straight cuts) or
a CNC punch press or water-jet cutting machine or laser-cutting machine
(for odd shapes). The actual machine time will be small, but there will
likely be set-up charges that will likely be greater than the machine
time. The smaller the shop the better (as far as the cost you will be
charged). The best deal (for you) would be if you have a friend that
works in such a shop. Especially if that friend owes you a favor.
Bill C.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
AMsafetyC@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Multi-master tool knock-off
Pretty neat demo, I wonder if it is capable of cutting 12 ga 301
stainless steel? I have a bunch I need to cut for certain fittings and
right now I don't have anything in my shop that will do a nice clean
neat job of it.
John
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RE: cutting stainless steel -(was Multi-master tool |
knock-off)
The Harbor freight flyer for March 13-15 has the 4 1/2 inch grinders for
$9.95.
(I bought 2 at the last sale...)
They are definitely mean and nasty and will cut stuff up and shape
steel.
They also have the 10 pack of cutoff wheels for $8.
It may be advisable to open up the gearbox and add some good lube to
extend their life.
I bought some outboard motor gearbox oil for this purpose.
I would wear some serious eye protection!
Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Church
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 9:48 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: RE: cutting stainless steel -(was
Multi-master tool knock-off)
John,
I don't think you'd want to try cutting 12ga stainless steel with a
little tool like a Multi-Master. They are a pretty cool tool, and great
for certain applications, but cutting heavy gauge stainless steel is not
what they're made for. You would take forever, and likely wear out the
tool.
If you have a few simple cuts, that are straight lines, you can use a
4 1/2" angle grinder and a thin metal-cutting disc. The disc should be
only about .04" (1mm) thick.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: cabane brace struts |
I was referring to the diagonal strut, not the vertical ones.
I don't think you'll convince William Wynne that they are safe.
The mounting brackets are strong enough. The DIAGONAL strut made of
the same material as the vertical cabanes are strong enough
The bolts connecting both ends are strong enough. But the adjustable
Rod- end Bearing threaded end in its mated fitting apparently, isn't
strong enough.
Flexible fuel tubing would be great, or a fuel tank in the fuselage.
Still once you know the length of the diagonal cabane support, there'
no further need for adjustment, so why not be safe and use a strut of
proper length with just bolt holes drilled the proper distance apart?
Roman Bukolt NX20795
On Mar 2, 2009, at 4:00 PM, Bill Church wrote:
> Roman,
>
> You suggest installing a "sturdy fixed cabane".
> What would be the definition of "sturdy", in this instance?
> Should it be strong enough to resist impact with the earth at a
> speed of 50 mph? 60 mph? 80mph? At what angle?
> I guess the point I'm trying to make is that the parasol wing,
> sitting on cabanes, isn't going to be "sturdy" no matter what you do.
> In a crash, something is going to break - hopefully not the pilot or
> passenger.
> You could make the struts out of 1" diameter solid titanium, and
> then the loads would just be transferred to the little sheet metal
> brackets and the little bolts that everything is held together with.
>
> I would think it would be more important to have flexible fuel
> lines, than to make the forward struts extra strong and fixed. If
> the fuel had not leaked onto the hot engine, there would not have
> been the disaster that occurred.
>
> On the other hand, the plans don't spell out what size of tube to
> use for these struts, and I've seen many different sizes used. Some
> of those I've seen look to be WAY too small to have sufficient
> strength if loaded in compression. These struts are not decorative -
> they should not be trifled with. I just don't think that making them
> adjustable makes them unsafe.
>
> Bill C.
>
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Roman Bukolt
> Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 4:01 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane brace struts
>
> For those of you who are building or have a Piet with a wing tank, I
> would like to relate to you a little advice from William Wynne the
> Corvair guy. He was a front seat passenger in his Piet when the
> pilot somehow got into a spin at 80 ft. AGL.
> The plane crashed. The design is very strong and the plane easily
> repairable except for one flaw.
> That adjustable link at the top of the diagonal cabane.
> Upon impact, it buckled, the wing shifted forward severing the fuel
> line and covering William with gas. Otherwise he was OK.
> The pilot was dazed. While William was trying to assist getting the
> pilot free, the plane caught fire, dripping fuel on the hot Corvair,
> burning the plane to a crisp and causing major burns and multiple
> operations to William Wynne over the next couple yrs.
> Suggestion: Use the adjustment for trimming the CG. Once
> satisfied, replace the diagonal cabane with a sturdy fixed cabane.
>
> Roman Bukolt, NX20795
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: cabane brace struts |
OOPS ! Yeah! Like that!
do not archive
On Mar 2, 2009, at 4:14 PM, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
> Roman: you mean like this? (see pic)
>
> When 41CC went over on its back, my cabane braces both
> needed to be replaced and one of the rod ends broke. I have
> no idea how the airplane would have fared if it had been fitted
> with the 1/8" brace cables in the original X-fashion across the
> starboard side passenger's side cabanes.
>
> Many Piets have no adjustment in the brace struts. For an
> excellent example, look at the great pix that Walt posted just a
> few days ago of his airplane. I think it has fixed struts.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
> <PB130010.JPG>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the |
concave
Jack,
Thanks for the info.
I am not using PolyFiber, but I can see how to do the same thing with my Stewart
Systems products. Essentially you glue the fabric to the lower ribs then iron
it a bit, do the lacing and the final shrink on the bottom at least is after
its laced, makes sense. I was thinking a little shrink then pull it up, but that
would make the tension unpredictable, what you described sounds like it would
work better.
Was concerned about tensioning only top or bottom too much, but you can't just
riblace the bottom so I suppose the top would need to be pretty taunt (little
more than the bottom maybe but not final shrink) to get it all to come out right.
Didn't recall anyone discussing it and wanted to have a plan before I started covering.
Jim D.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232977#232977
Message 12
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| Subject: | cabane brace struts |
I, too was referring to the diagonal struts.
William Wynne had a very unfortunate accident, compounded by the
horrible fire that ensued. In the crash scenario that occurred, one of
the things that happened was that the diagonal struts apparently
collapsed at the adjustable rod end fitting. Do we know what size this
fitting was? Probably not, since this diagonal brace is not shown in any
of the plans.
The design of these struts is unfortunately left up to the builder to
determine.The only information we get is the supplementary plans, which
shows a sketch with no dimensions, showing a revised version of the
motor mount bracket with a small tab sticking out the top. The hole in
this tab appears to be 3/16" diameter, so this hole would only permit
the use of a AN3 bolt (#10). Assuming the bracket thickness is the same
as the original motor mount, this bracket is only 14ga (.074"). That's
all the information we are given regarding the diagonal braces. The rest
is up to the builder to figure out.
We have no details regarding the brackets at the top of the cabanes, or
how they are attached, or what they are attached to.
We have no details regarding the diagonal braces themselves (material,
diameter, wall thickness, etc.).
We have no details regarding the attachment of the braces to the plane.
The only thing that can be said about William's unfortunate accident is
that IN THE SPECIFIC CRASH THAT OCCURRED:
the mounting brackets on his plane apparently did not fail,
the bolts that he used connecting both ends apparently did not fail,
the adjustable rod-end bearing threaded end in its mating fitting that
he used (apparently) failed.
Had the crash occurred slightly differently, the result might have been
different. As others have said, it is impossible to design an airplane
to withstand all possible eventualities AND have it fly. Like Jack said,
it would be an Abrams tank.
I know that in the UK, the builder does not have the latitude that the
American builder has, regarding design changes. I wonder if anyone out
there in Pietenpol land knows what the PFA-approved (or whatever it's
called now) plans show for the diagonal bracing. I have not seen photos
of a UK-built Pietenpol with the diagonal cross-brace cables - they all
have the diagonal struts.
I believe the GN-1 utilizes the diagonal struts, but since the GN-1
cannot accomodate moving the wing fore or aft, there is no reason to
allow for adjustment of the length of the diagonal brace.
I stand by my comment that using an adjustable brace does not make the
plane unsafe.
Using an adjustable brace that is undersized IS unsafe.
Unfortunately, it is left up to the builder to determine how that brace
is designed, and what size it should be.
Since there is no official design for this component, it is impossible
to say that it is or isn't sufficient.
Bill C.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roman
Bukolt
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane brace struts
I was referring to the diagonal strut, not the vertical ones.
I don't think you'll convince William Wynne that they are safe.
The mounting brackets are strong enough. The DIAGONAL strut made of the
same material as the vertical cabanes are strong enough
The bolts connecting both ends are strong enough. But the adjustable
Rod- end Bearing threaded end in its mated fitting apparently, isn't
strong enough.
Flexible fuel tubing would be great, or a fuel tank in the fuselage.
Still once you know the length of the diagonal cabane support, there' no
further need for adjustment, so why not be safe and use a strut of
proper length with just bolt holes drilled the proper distance apart?
Roman Bukolt NX20795
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| Subject: | Re: High Res image of the Aerial Pietenpol? |
Sent what photos I had.. hope it helped.
How did the presentation go?
Jim D.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232986#232986
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| Subject: | Re: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle |
the concave
Jim,
I've just finished the process of my wings with the Stewart Systems
glue. Here's what I did. Paint a bonding coat of Ecobond on the bottom
of the ribs between the spars. Apply the bottom fabric per the Stewart
System video/information. Then tack the fabric to the ribs with low
head on your sealing iron, and apply a second coat of glue through the
fabric, wiping the excess per the Stewart process. Shrink the bottom
fabric to 250 degrees, or the first shrink. At this point I marked the
location for all my inspection rings, and passed the lower aileron cable
through the fabric. Next I applied the top fabric per the Stewart
process. I applied anti-chafe tape to the aft edge of the leading edge
sheeting, and anywhere else it looked like the fabric might rub, like
the plywood pieces I used to hold my compression struts in place. Now I
did the first shrink on the top fabric, so the whole wing has been
shrunk to 250 degrees. Now you can apply your reinforcing tapes to the
ribs and do your rib stitching. After all the rib stitching is in place
you can do the next two stages of shrinking, taking the whole wing to
300, then 350 degrees.
The beauty of using the Stewart Ecobond, is you can do it in a closed up
shop while its cold outside with no worries.
Ben
jimd wrote:
>
> I am getting fairly close to being ready to start covering my wings and have
a fairly pietenpol specific covering question. The bottom of the wings are concave,
which has me wondering how to cover them right.
>
> Normally you bring all the fabric (top and bottom) to full shrink, then rib lace.
However that would make the fabric way to tight on the bottom.
>
> Do you just do the bottom with about 250 degrees for a first shrink, and the
top to full shrink then pull up the fabric to the bottom of the ribs?
>
> What works well? I have three different sets of covering books, a tape and dvd
set and none of them discuss concave bottoms of wings like ours have.
>
> Jim D.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232931#232931
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the |
concave
Jim,
The Poly Fiber book covers concave wings. I followed that with no problems.
If you don't have a copy I can get the relevant info for you.
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
http://www.cpc-world.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jimd
Sent: Wednesday, 4 March 2009 1:37 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle
the concave
I am getting fairly close to being ready to start covering my wings and have
a fairly pietenpol specific covering question. The bottom of the wings are
concave, which has me wondering how to cover them right.
Normally you bring all the fabric (top and bottom) to full shrink, then rib
lace. However that would make the fabric way to tight on the bottom.
Do you just do the bottom with about 250 degrees for a first shrink, and the
top to full shrink then pull up the fabric to the bottom of the ribs?
What works well? I have three different sets of covering books, a tape and
dvd set and none of them discuss concave bottoms of wings like ours have.
Jim D.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232931#232931
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the |
concav
Thanks,
Exactly what I was looking for information wise. Was not quite sure of order but
putting on the EkoBond then positioning it all, ironing it to stick and sealing
it with a coat on the top makes sense, it will work.
Had another question but think I know what I am going to do. My first wing panel
I am covering is for a lower wing (making a GN-1 Aerial biplane) so there is
an odd thing that comes up with the concave bottom ribs and the wood wing walk
sections.
The top of both of the bottom wing panels are solid wood over the first rib, so
I seemed to have the choice of lacing to only the bottom rib, or not lacing the
first rib.
Then it dawned on me that I could drill holes for the rib lacing and the first
rib would be just like the rest.
Wouldn't worry about it other than the concave rib shape would mean the bottom
edge would run from where the wing meets the fuselage to the second rib in essentially
a flat shape, not the one it is supposed to have.
Drilling it will make it so I can lace it just like the rest and solves the problem.
Has made me curious about how other biplanes dealt with it.
Thanks for the info [Laughing]
Jim D.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233034#233034
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Question on tensioning fabric, how do you handle the |
concav
Almost forgot..
Closed shop when it is cold would be nice. My project has been nearly stalled because
I made a good choice that was a mistake given the weather. Decided to use
System 3 Clear Coat epoxy on all the gluing surfaces of the lower wings. Loved
the way it came out, but my garage is attached to my house and seems to stay
at 60 degrees most the time. It takes about 3 days for the epoxy to harden,
and with my plane and all the wing panels and other stuff in there I can only
get at part of one wing at a time. Has taken me a couple months to get the lower
wings all done with the preparation and epoxy.
I am covering the wings in my living room though, which is more like 70 and very
dry this time of year, which should be ideal for getting the glue to work. Once
I get the bottom wings covered, I think I am going to use the one part polyurethane
varnish instead of the epoxy for the top wings, as it could cut a few
months time off, if it is bearable in the house.. may not be, have you used
it? (I worked with their paint and it took a charcoal filter mask, but we were
spraying it.)
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233038#233038
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RE: cutting stainless steel -(was Multi-master tool |
knock-off)
They're pretty ruthless alright. I've mounted one in a table and have
another for
freehand. There are stailess wheels that last longer than the regular
but at 10
for 8 bucks for regular ones it may not be worth a price difference, if
there is one.
Clif
They are definitely mean and nasty and will cut stuff up and shape
steel.
They also have the 10 pack of cutoff wheels for $8.
Kevin
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: cabane brace struts |
The most important feature of this particular setup is that
the top mount is significantly below the wing mouting
bolt. There is NO proper triangulation. Therefore any
untoward stress is, as is shown in the picture, going to
bend the cabane resulting in the breakage you see.
If those diagonals were bolted at or VERY near the
wing mount bolt with the centerline lined up with that
bolt any damage would have been significantly less.
Any such strut can be a lot smaller than appears
adequate if the line of tension and compression is
directly down it's centerline.
Clif
That's all the information we are given regarding the diagonal
braces. The rest is up to the builder to figure out.
We have no details regarding the brackets at the top of the cabanes,
or how they are attached, or what they are attached to.
Since there is no official design for this component, it is impossible
to say that it is or isn't sufficient.
Bill C.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roman
Bukolt
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 12:11 PM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane brace struts
I was referring to the diagonal strut, not the vertical ones.
I don't think you'll convince William Wynne that they are safe.
The mounting brackets are strong enough. The DIAGONAL strut made of
the same material as the vertical cabanes are strong enough
The bolts connecting both ends are strong enough. But the adjustable
Rod- end Bearing threaded end in its mated fitting apparently, isn't
strong enough.
Flexible fuel tubing would be great, or a fuel tank in the fuselage.
Still once you know the length of the diagonal cabane support, there' no
further need for adjustment, so why not be safe and use a strut of
proper length with just bolt holes drilled the proper distance apart?
Roman Bukolt NX20795
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
03/03/09 16:09:00
Message 20
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| Subject: | 80th Anniversary Fly-in at OSH |
Latest info is as follows:
Tailskid equipped Pietenpols will be allowed to use the ultralight strip
at the south end of the airfield for arriving and departing Airventure.
Timm Bogenhagen, who manages the ultralight operations, is enthusiastic
about the idea.
Pilots landing Pietenpols at the ultralight strip may either leave their
aircraft at the south end of the airfield or they can have them towed to
the Pietenpol parking area close to the Homebuilding Headquarters
building.
More details will be available in the upcoming BPA Newsletter and
further info will be posted here as it becomes available.
Greg Cardinal
Message 21
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| Subject: | cabane brace struts |
Wasn't WW's misfortune due to a split tank rather than bent diagonal braces
? Seems like all the diagonal braces are doing just fine in their intended
use There is even one flying in central WI with electrical conduit crushed
on the ends for mounting that has made a few journeys to FL!!!
Ditto the "built to fly not built to crash".sentiment.
Larry Williams-- xcg, xcmr, epp
=0A=0A=0A
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