Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:00 AM - wood gear progress (Oscar Zuniga)
2. 07:24 AM - verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab (Douwe Blumberg)
3. 08:14 AM - Re: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab (Jack Phillips)
4. 08:34 AM - Re: Re: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab (Dortch, Steven D MAJ NG NG NGB)
5. 08:47 AM - Re: Re: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab (H RULE)
6. 10:41 AM - Re: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab (Michael Perez)
7. 10:58 AM - Re: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab (Catdesigns)
8. 11:04 AM - Re: slight course deviation to Brodhead/Oshkosh possible ? (Gardiner Mason)
9. 11:19 AM - Re: slight course deviation to Brodhead/Oshkosh possible ? (Jack Phillips)
10. 11:19 AM - Tach Check (Wayne Bressler)
11. 11:21 AM - Re: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab (Catdesigns)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | wood gear progress |
Carson=3B
I recommend that you put some wings on it before you try flying it =3Bo)
I'm like Walt... seeing wood and glue come together makes me want to go out
into the shop. There's something magical about building from plans.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio=2C TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab |
Hey gang,
Three questions:
1. Any suggestions for inexpensively verifying my tach? is there some sort
of cheap strobe type counter I can use on the prop?
2. I am running my shoulder belt attachment back to my tailpost and wanted
thoughts on what size cable to use. What g's are we realistically
protecting against after which it's just silliness?
3. What gauge aluminum should I use for my cowling? what is the best means
of cutting out openings and holes?
Thanks, as always!!
Douwe
spraying fuse next week, then it's all painted!!
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab |
Hi Douwe,
Answers to your questions:
1. Strobe tachs are available, but not cheap. What I do is find a friend
who owns one and use his.
2. Why run the cables all the way to the tailpost? Cable is heavy and
expensive, and if the cable is needed (i.e., in a crash) you are subjecting
the structure to a load in a direction it is not really designed to resist.
I would carry the cables just far enough aft to give you a proper angle on
the cables and attach them to the upper longerons at a point where the
longerons have plenty of reinforcement (where the uprights and diagonals
come in). I believe a 20 G limit is what is usually considered adequate.
So if you weigh 200 lbs, and your entire weight is to be suspended from
these cables, they will have to be capable of withstanding 4,000 lbs of load
(2,000 lbs apiece), which will require at least 1/8" diameter cable. By the
time you add all the fittings you will have a couple of pounds of weight
back where you really don't want extra weight.
If you just attach the cables to the top longerons, drill the bolt holes
through the longerons midway between the top and bottom surfaces of the
longeron, with the hole running horizontally. Make sure there are gussets
on either side of the longeron at that point for extra reinforcement.
3. I used 2024-T3 aluminum .025" thick for my cowlings. Large openings
like the cockpit cutouts and cutouts around the engine are best done on a
wood-cutting bandsaw with a metal cutting blade. Holes are best done with a
holesaw. All can be cut with tin snips, if you really like blisters and
lacerations. Cut to the outside of your finished line and finish it up with
a vixen file (for the straight portions) or a drum sander (for curves).
Hope this helps,
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douwe
Blumberg
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 10:27 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab
<douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
Hey gang,
Three questions:
1. Any suggestions for inexpensively verifying my tach? is there some sort
of cheap strobe type counter I can use on the prop?
2. I am running my shoulder belt attachment back to my tailpost and wanted
thoughts on what size cable to use. What g's are we realistically
protecting against after which it's just silliness?
3. What gauge aluminum should I use for my cowling? what is the best means
of cutting out openings and holes?
Thanks, as always!!
Douwe
spraying fuse next week, then it's all painted!!
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab |
I have a small device that works something like a tuning fork. Pretty cheap. We
compared it to a strobe and it was very close. You stand 25 feet in front of
the plane, slide a plastic holder down to the indicated RPM and look through
a peephole and flip a small stiff rod with your finger. The rod viberates. If
the prop moves one way it is too fast, If it moves the other it is too slow. Have
the pilot adjust the throttle until the prop is stationary, then compare the
RPM to the setting on the device. sounds more complicated than it is.
Blue Skies,
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab
>
> Hi Douwe,
>
> Answers to your questions:
>
> 1. Strobe tachs are available, but not cheap. What I do is find a friend
> who owns one and use his.
>
> 2. Why run the cables all the way to the tailpost? Cable is heavy and
> expensive, and if the cable is needed (i.e., in a crash) you are subjecting
> the structure to a load in a direction it is not really designed to resist.
> I would carry the cables just far enough aft to give you a proper angle on
> the cables and attach them to the upper longerons at a point where the
> longerons have plenty of reinforcement (where the uprights and diagonals
> come in). I believe a 20 G limit is what is usually considered adequate.
> So if you weigh 200 lbs, and your entire weight is to be suspended from
> these cables, they will have to be capable of withstanding 4,000 lbs of load
> (2,000 lbs apiece), which will require at least 1/8" diameter cable. By the
> time you add all the fittings you will have a couple of pounds of weight
> back where you really don't want extra weight.
> If you just attach the cables to the top longerons, drill the bolt holes
> through the longerons midway between the top and bottom surfaces of the
> longeron, with the hole running horizontally. Make sure there are gussets
> on either side of the longeron at that point for extra reinforcement.
>
> 3. I used 2024-T3 aluminum .025" thick for my cowlings. Large openings
> like the cockpit cutouts and cutouts around the engine are best done on a
> wood-cutting bandsaw with a metal cutting blade. Holes are best done with a
> holesaw. All can be cut with tin snips, if you really like blisters and
> lacerations. Cut to the outside of your finished line and finish it up with
> a vixen file (for the straight portions) or a drum sander (for curves).
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douwe
> Blumberg
> Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 10:27 AM
> To: pietenpolgroup
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab
>
> <
>
> Hey gang,
>
> Three questions:
>
> 1. Any suggestions for inexpensively verifying my tach? is there some sort
> of cheap strobe type counter I can use on the prop?
>
> 2. I am running my shoulder belt attachment back to my tailpost and wanted
> thoughts on what size cable to use. What g's are we realistically
> protecting against after which it's just silliness?
>
> 3. What gauge aluminum should I use for my cowling? what is the best means
> of cutting out openings and holes?
>
> Thanks, as always!!
>
> Douwe
>
> spraying fuse next week, then it's all painted!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab |
that sounds almost seductive;I think I need a glass of wine!=0A=0Ado not ar
chive=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: "Dortch, Steve
n D MAJ NG NG NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil>=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matro
nics.com=0ASent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 11:30:59 AM=0ASubject: Re: RE: Pi
etenpol-List: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab=0A=0A--> Pietenpol-Lis
t message posted by: "Dortch, Steven D MAJ NG NG NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.a
rmy.mil>=0A=0AI have a small device that works something like a tuning fork
.- Pretty cheap. We compared it to a strobe and it was very close. You st
and 25 feet in front of the plane, slide a plastic holder down to the indic
ated RPM and look through a peephole and flip a small stiff rod with your f
inger. The rod viberates. If the prop moves one way it is too fast, If it m
oves the other it is too slow. Have the pilot adjust the throttle until the
prop is stationary, then compare the RPM to the setting on the device. sou
nds more complicated than it is. =0A=0ABlue Skies,=0A=0ASteve- =0A=0A----
- Original Message -----=0AFrom: Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>=0AD
ate: Thursday, April 16, 2009 10:23=0ASubject: RE: Pietenpol-List: verifyin
g tach/cable sizes/cowling fab=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com=0A=0A=0A>
=0A> =0A> Answers to your questions:=0A> =0A> 1.- Strobe tachs are availa
ble, but not cheap.- What I do is find a friend=0A> who owns one and use
his.=0A> =0A> 2.- Why run the cables all the way to the tailpost?- Cabl
e is heavy and=0A> expensive, and if the cable is needed (i.e., in a crash)
you are subjecting=0A> the structure to a load in a direction it is not re
ally designed to resist.=0A> I would carry the cables just far enough aft t
o give you a proper angle on=0A> the cables and attach them to the upper lo
ngerons at a point where the=0A> longerons have plenty of reinforcement (wh
ere the uprights and diagonals=0A> come in).- I believe a 20 G limit is w
hat is usually considered adequate.=0A> So if you weigh 200 lbs, and your e
ntire weight is to be suspended from=0A> these cables, they will have to be
capable of withstanding 4,000 lbs of load=0A> (2,000 lbs apiece), which wi
ll require at least 1/8" diameter cable.- By the=0A> time you add all the
fittings you will have a couple of pounds of weight=0A> back where you rea
lly don't want extra weight.=0A> If you just attach the cables to the top l
ongerons, drill the bolt holes=0A> through the longerons midway between the
top and bottom surfaces of the=0A> longeron, with the hole running horizon
tally.- Make sure there are gussets=0A> on either side of the longeron at
that point for extra reinforcement.=0A> =0A> 3.- I used 2024-T3 aluminum
.025" thick for my cowlings.- Large openings=0A> like the cockpit cutout
s and cutouts around the engine are best done on a=0A> wood-cutting bandsaw
with a metal cutting blade.- Holes are best done with a=0A> holesaw.-
All can be cut with tin snips, if you really like blisters and=0A> lacerati
ons.- Cut to the outside of your finished line and finish it up with=0A>
a vixen file (for the straight portions) or a drum sander (for curves).=0A>
=0A> Hope this helps,=0A> =0A> Jack Phillips=0A> NX899JP=0A> =0A> -----Ori
ginal Message-----=0A> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com=0A>
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douwe=0A> B
lumberg=0A> Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 10:27 AM=0A> To: pietenpolgroup
=0A> Subject: Pietenpol-List: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab=0A>
Hey gang,=0A> =0A> Three questions:=0A> =0A> 1.- Any suggestions for inex
pensively verifying my tach?- is there some sort=0A> of cheap strobe type
counter I can use on the prop?=0A> =0A> 2.- I am running my shoulder bel
t attachment back to my tailpost and wanted=0A> thoughts on what size cable
to use.- What g's are we realistically=0A> protecting against after whic
h it's just silliness?=0A> =0A> 3.- What gauge aluminum should I use for
my cowling?- what is the best means=0A> of cutting out openings and holes
?=0A> =0A> Thanks, as always!!=0A> =0A> Douwe=0A> =0A> spraying fuse next w
eek, then it's all painted!!=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>
=========================0A
=================
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab |
http://www.grandrc.com/inc/sdetail/41051
-
I used one of the above while doing RC choppers. You look through the windo
w toward the top of the unit and adjust the RPM of the unit with the slide
on the side. When the object you are looking at through the window, (the pr
op, in your case) seems to freeze, you look at the digital readout of the u
nit for the RPM. I believe it is good for 2 and 3 blade props/rotors.- (I
've used on fans around the house just for grins...)
--- On Thu, 4/16/09, Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> wrote:
From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab
link.net>
Hey gang,
Three questions:
1.- Any suggestions for inexpensively verifying my tach?- is there some
sort
of cheap strobe type counter I can use on the prop?
2.- I am running my shoulder belt attachment back to my tailpost and want
ed
thoughts on what size cable to use.- What g's are we realistically
protecting against after which it's just silliness?
3.- What gauge aluminum should I use for my cowling?- what is the best
means
of cutting out openings and holes?
Thanks, as always!!
Douwe
spraying fuse next week, then it's all painted!!
le, List Admin.
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab |
Douwe
I used 1/8th inch cable anchored in 3 places. You can see my basic setup here
http://www.westcoastpiet.com/build_pictures_2.htm
For you steely eyed people who I know will comment, I did use shorter bolts to
attach the seat belts and did away with the large wood washers.
Chris
--------
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, CA
WestCoastPiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239556#239556
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: slight course deviation to Brodhead/Oshkosh possible |
?
Jack, I have a couple of setbacks. While weighing for wt and ballance
the plane slipped back off the scales and messed up the bottom of nose
piece. I am rebuilding it now. Also while filling up my wet wing center
section fuel tank lo and behold it leaked profusely. I am now having a
new one made out of aluminum. I sure hope my mistakes are over with. I
am flying to sun n fun Sunday. Will you be there?Gardiner
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Phillips
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 8:46 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: slight course deviation to
Brodhead/Oshkosh possible ?
Congratulations, Gardiner for finishing the Piet and for finally
getting Matronics to accept your posts.
You've got three months to fly off the time on your Piet and have it
ready for Brodhead - should be plenty of time. Hope to see it (and you)
there.
Jack
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gardiner
Mason
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 9:10 PM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: slight course deviation to
Brodhead/Oshkosh possible ?
Jack, I am taxiing my piet now, but have not done the paper work yet.
CG is in range and wt is 771 so far. I hope to have it ready for
Brodhead but I am not going to push it as I still have my Cessna 140
tomake the trip.. Cheers, Gardiner.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gardiner Mason
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: slight course deviation to
Brodhead/Oshkosh possible ?
Jack, which tree would go for if you lost your engine? Gardiner
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Phillips
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 3:24 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: slight course deviation to
Brodhead/Oshkosh possible ?
Actually, the Appalachians rise about as high above the
surrounding terrain as do the Rockies. Mount Mitchell, in western North
Carolina is 6,684' above sea level, but the surrounding terrain is only
595' MSL, so it rises over 6,000' above its surroundings. The land
around the Rockies is nearly 6,000' MSL, so only the peaks that are over
12,000' are truly "taller" than the highest peaks in the Appalachians.
Density altitude is another matter entirely.
Neither mountain range has a wealth of good forced landing sites.
Here's typical terrain in the Blue Ridge on the way to Brodhead last
year. At about this point in the trip, my GPS indicated I was making 27
knots, groundspeed.
Jack Phillips
Happy I don't have to get any higher than about 4500' to get to
Brodhead.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Holland
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 1:55 PM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: slight course deviation to
Brodhead/Oshkosh possible ?
4000 ft. high "mounds of dirt" ain't mountains!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">h
ttp://forums.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">
http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-Listhttp://forums.matronics.
comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | slight course deviation to Brodhead/Oshkosh possible |
?
Not this year. Trying to get everything together to make Brodhead and maybe
Oshkosh, but can't do everything. Sorry to hear about your mishaps.
Jack
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gardiner
Mason
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: slight course deviation to Brodhead/Oshkosh
possible ?
Jack, I have a couple of setbacks. While weighing for wt and ballance the
plane slipped back off the scales and messed up the bottom of nose piece. I
am rebuilding it now. Also while filling up my wet wing center section fuel
tank lo and behold it leaked profusely. I am now having a new one made out
of aluminum. I sure hope my mistakes are over with. I am flying to sun n fun
Sunday. Will you be there?Gardiner
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack <mailto:pietflyr@bellsouth.net> Phillips
Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 8:46 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: slight course deviation to Brodhead/Oshkosh
possible ?
Congratulations, Gardiner for finishing the Piet and for finally getting
Matronics to accept your posts.
You've got three months to fly off the time on your Piet and have it ready
for Brodhead - should be plenty of time. Hope to see it (and you) there.
Jack
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gardiner
Mason
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: slight course deviation to Brodhead/Oshkosh
possible ?
Jack, I am taxiing my piet now, but have not done the paper work yet. CG is
in range and wt is 771 so far. I hope to have it ready for Brodhead but I am
not going to push it as I still have my Cessna 140 tomake the trip.. Cheers,
Gardiner.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gardiner <mailto:airlion@bellsouth.net> Mason
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: slight course deviation to Brodhead/Oshkosh
possible ?
Jack, which tree would go for if you lost your engine? Gardiner
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack <mailto:pietflyr@bellsouth.net> Phillips
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 3:24 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: slight course deviation to Brodhead/Oshkosh
possible ?
Actually, the Appalachians rise about as high above the surrounding terrain
as do the Rockies. Mount Mitchell, in western North Carolina is 6,684'
above sea level, but the surrounding terrain is only 595' MSL, so it rises
over 6,000' above its surroundings. The land around the Rockies is nearly
6,000' MSL, so only the peaks that are over 12,000' are truly "taller" than
the highest peaks in the Appalachians. Density altitude is another matter
entirely.
Neither mountain range has a wealth of good forced landing sites. Here's
typical terrain in the Blue Ridge on the way to Brodhead last year. At
about this point in the trip, my GPS indicated I was making 27 knots,
groundspeed.
Jack Phillips
Happy I don't have to get any higher than about 4500' to get to Brodhead.
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Holland
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: slight course deviation to Brodhead/Oshkosh
possible ?
4000 ft. high "mounds of dirt" ain't mountains!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
The R/C guys (myself included) use an optical tach. The I have is
from GloBee. I know a buddy of mine used one to test the tach in his
Skybolt.
I'd give a link but this phone won't let me copy and paste (yet).
They have them at towerhobbies.com for $28.
Wayne Bressler Jr.
Taildraggers, Inc.
taildraggersinc.com
Sent from my iPhone
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: verifying tach/cable sizes/cowling fab |
I should add that the reason I used three anchor points was to make the load an
each anchor as low as possible. I know from rock climbing that the angle between
the two anchor points is very important when it comes to lowering the load
on the anchors. What you want to shoot for is about a 20 degree angle between
each arm of the the sling attached to the two anchor points. This will load
each anchor with 1/2 the actual load. Any angle greater then this and you will
load the anchors more then half.
For a good discussion on this topic see this web page
http://www.southeastclimbing.com/faq/faq_anchor_forces.htm
Chris
--------
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, CA
WestCoastPiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239568#239568
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|