Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:48 AM - Re: T-88 (jimd)
2. 05:55 AM - Re: T-88 (jimd)
3. 08:29 AM - Re: T-88 (jimd)
4. 10:54 AM - Re: T-88 (jimd)
Message 1
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I agree with the clear little cups, works great, you just measure out same amount
of each. If you guys haven't tried the System 3 Clear Coat, it is pretty cool
as well, but takes a 2 to 1 ratio and that is easy to get with three little
clear cups. (It is an epoxy varnish, that is totally compatible with T-88 so
you don't have to leave dry wood where the T-88 will go.)
Having said all that, the clear coat slowed me down as I was working in my garage
during the winter and it was about 55-60 degrees, so the curing time meant
that varnishing both my wing panels took forever.
I think I will do the upper wing panels (I am doing an Aerial so it has two sets
of wings) with one part polyurethane as it would eliminate the mixing and is
acceptable as a base for the Stewart Systems covering process. Did the clear
coat as it would work with any of the covering systems.
T-88 works great, so does the clear coat, but both of them smell pretty bad and
while they will cure at lower temperatures, they cure much slower.
Great posts guys,
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240882#240882
Message 2
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I found a great use for pop sickle sticks. When your covering things and putting
on the fabric tape, the pinked edges of the tape, when coated with fabric cement
can feel rough like the edge of a saw blade. After gluing the fabric, but
before its totally set, you can go over the edges and flatten/smooth them a little
bit, getting them to stay down and be incredibly smoother.
With the Stewart Systems EkoBond glue, you can iron them at about 250 degrees and
sort of mold them really flat/smooth, but I don't think your supposed to do
that with PolyBrush, though the pop sickle stick thing should still work.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240885#240885
Message 3
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I found a great use for pop sickle sticks. When your covering things and putting
on the fabric tape, the pinked edges of the tape, when coated with fabric cement
can feel rough like the edge of a saw blade. After gluing the fabric, but
before its totally set, you can go over the edges and flatten/smooth them a little
bit, getting them to stay down and be incredibly smoother.
With the Stewart Systems EkoBond glue, you can iron them at about 250 degrees and
sort of mold them really flat/smooth, but I don't think your supposed to do
that with PolyBrush, though the pop sickle stick thing should still work.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240885#240885
Message 4
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I agree with the clear little cups, works great, you just measure out same amount
of each. If you guys haven't tried the System 3 Clear Coat, it is pretty cool
as well, but takes a 2 to 1 ratio and that is easy to get with three little
clear cups. (It is an epoxy varnish, that is totally compatible with T-88 so
you don't have to leave dry wood where the T-88 will go.)
Having said all that, the clear coat slowed me down as I was working in my garage
during the winter and it was about 55-60 degrees, so the curing time meant
that varnishing both my wing panels took forever.
I think I will do the upper wing panels (I am doing an Aerial so it has two sets
of wings) with one part polyurethane as it would eliminate the mixing and is
acceptable as a base for the Stewart Systems covering process. Did the clear
coat as it would work with any of the covering systems.
T-88 works great, so does the clear coat, but both of them smell pretty bad and
while they will cure at lower temperatures, they cure much slower.
Great posts guys,
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240882#240882
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