Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:53 AM - Re: Wood Options (Robert Ray)
2. 04:48 AM - Re: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering (Don Emch)
3. 05:13 AM - Re: Wood Options (Ameet Savant)
4. 06:15 AM - Re: Wood Options (Doug Dever)
5. 07:24 AM - Re: Don's lettering-- and now Don's prop (Tim Willis)
6. 08:23 AM - Re: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
7. 09:24 AM - More cables and turnbuckles (Oscar Zuniga)
8. 09:26 AM - tailwheels (Oscar Zuniga)
9. 12:22 PM - Re: More cables and turnbuckles (K5YAC)
10. 02:21 PM - Re: Wood Options ()
11. 03:00 PM - Re: Wood Options (Doug Dever)
12. 04:21 PM - Rib Jig (stephen labash)
13. 07:27 PM - Re: Rib Jig (K5YAC)
14. 08:23 PM - Re: Re: Rib Jig (Rick Holland)
15. 10:10 PM - Mike Cuy Sketches and Pictures ()
16. 10:11 PM - Dan Helsper's Rotating Wing Jig ()
17. 10:54 PM - Re: Re: 16 years to complete Kevin's airplane-- explained ! (jorge lizarraga)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Wood Options |
I found enough strainght grained knot free Douglas Fur to build a Piet at
Lowe's, strange it was in the section they
place specialty and project woods like poplar, oak. It was on sale no one
wanted it so I loaded all
on the cart and took it home, it was marked down on sale cheaper than
construction grade spruce
and pine. Around here you can get Poplar from a saw mill of course it's
green and you'll have to
have them quarter saw it, my sister's farm is covered with poplar. If I want
it I just pick a tree
with no limbs up to 25 feet and haul it to the saw mill. Also I bought boat
grade DF from a
mill in BC for 4 dollars a board foot, the ends were sealed the boards were
18' long and it is
fine, they shipped I don't remember the charge, I like the DF, I've built a
motorcycle trailer
out of it it's probably 18% stronger than spruce, takes epoxy like a sponge,
I took a piece
of plastic drain pipe filled it with hot boiling water stuck the DF strip in
and let if soak
it bends like crazy but retians the shape and gets it's strength back when
it dries. My Longerons
will be DF 1 x 3/4 inch because it's heavier than spruce so I will take off
1/4 inch.
To test the motorcycle trailer I pulled it behind my truck loaded with 600
lb's
at 80 mph, there's no metal in the trialer except the short piece of angle
where the leaf springs attach,
it's very strong.
Russell
On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 2:30 AM, Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> Red Cedar, because of it's low density, is only 2/3 the
> strength of Spruce. In other words if you wanted to
> use it in place of a 1" wide spruce or hemlock spar
> you would have to make it 1 1/2" wide.
>
> Port orford is completely different from red. Port
> Orford is actually stronger than spruce.
>
> Clif
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave and Connie" <
> dmatt@frontiernet.net>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 5:14 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options
>
>
>> dmatt@frontiernet.net>
>>
>> Quite a few years ago I was going to build a Pietenpol. I bought the
>> Western Aircraft wood and started. A Taylorcraft, kids, and many other
>> things got in the way so I sold the wood. The guy that bought it didn't
>> want the plans so I kept them.
>>
>> I am thinking about picking up some wood and making a set of ribs this
>> winter. If I get them done I will look for another piece to build.
>>
>> Locally I can easily get the following:
>> Poplar
>> White Pine
>> Radiata Pine
>> Western Red Cedar
>> undefined versions of Hemlock
>> Douglas Fir flooring
>>
>> The poplar and western red cedar are probably the easiest to find good
>> wood but clear white pine is also available.
>>
>> What would be the first couple of preferences for wood? I was thinking
>> of using red cedar because I had read that Charlie Rubeck (?) had used
>> that. Looking at the archives there seems to be some disagreement on
>> the type of cedar (red or Port Oxford) he used and there is a huge
>> difference in the characteristics between the types.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 17:52:00
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering |
I'm sure a lot of different paints can be used. "1 Shot" is a very popular sign
paint. That's what is on mine. In using it for my fuselage, I found it is
really nice to work with. It has just the right consistency for painting vertical
surfaces with a brush. I'm sure the quality of brush helps too. I sprung
for an average quality one. It was tiny and cost about 30 bucks! Although
I haven't tried it, I hear it comes off with "Easy Off" oven cleaner and it won't
harm the dope. So if there is something you need to remove that can be a
possibility. I sure wish I had the talent of a sign painter, they are amazing
to watch!
Here is the link to "1 Shot"
http://www.1shot.com/
Luckily I have a dealer near me. They tried to give me a quick lesson, Ha! There
ain't no quick learning it! Which is the reason the lettering I did the lettering
on the side of my with a stencil and they are very simple letters. See
it here;
http://public.fotki.com/dwbrant/fancies-of-flight/pietenpol-80th-anni/5d022692.html
This is the work of a sign painter;
http://public.fotki.com/dwbrant/fancies-of-flight/pietenpol-80th-anni/5d022683.html
Ha! Little different!
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265085#265085
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Wood Options |
Dave,
I recently read through the 1942 War Department Manual on Aircraft
Woodworking (TM 1-414) and they say Poplar is a direct replacement for Sitka
Spruce with no need of engineering changes.
By the way, the manual is a great read and has some really good tips.
Ameet
On Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 7:14 PM, Dave and Connie <dmatt@frontiernet.net>wrote:
> dmatt@frontiernet.net>
>
> Quite a few years ago I was going to build a Pietenpol. I bought the
> Western Aircraft wood and started. A Taylorcraft, kids, and many other
> things got in the way so I sold the wood. The guy that bought it didn't
> want the plans so I kept them.
>
> I am thinking about picking up some wood and making a set of ribs this
> winter. If I get them done I will look for another piece to build.
>
> Locally I can easily get the following:
> Poplar
> White Pine
> Radiata Pine
> Western Red Cedar
> undefined versions of Hemlock
> Douglas Fir flooring
>
> The poplar and western red cedar are probably the easiest to find good wood
> but clear white pine is also available.
>
> What would be the first couple of preferences for wood? I was thinking of
> using red cedar because I had read that Charlie Rubeck (?) had used that.
> Looking at the archives there seems to be some disagreement on the type of
> cedar (red or Port Oxford) he used and there is a huge difference in the
> characteristics between the types.
>
> Dave
>
>
Message 4
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|
Yeah it would be great if Lowe's even carried Douglas Fir around here. I c
an get construction grade fir. Built my addition with it. I wouldn't be a
fraid to use western region spf lumber. But here in the east spf includes
balsam fir. Be careful on poplar. Needs to be yellow poplar or tulip wo
od
. Out west "poplar" may be cottonwood or aspen. Not suitable.
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options
From: rray032003@gmail.com
I found enough strainght grained knot free Douglas Fur to build a Piet at L
owe's=2C strange it was in the section they
place specialty and project woods like poplar=2C oak. It was on sale no one
wanted it so I loaded all
on the cart and took it home=2C it was marked down on sale cheaper than con
struction grade spruce
and pine. Around here you can get Poplar from a saw mill of course it's gre
en and you'll have to
have them quarter saw it=2C my sister's farm is covered with poplar. If I w
ant it I just pick a tree
with no limbs up to 25 feet and haul it to the saw mill. Also I bought boat
grade DF from a
mill in BC for 4 dollars a board foot=2C the ends were sealed the boards we
re 18' long and it is
fine=2C they shipped I don't remember the charge=2C I like the DF=2C I've b
uilt a motorcycle trailer
out of it it's probably 18% stronger than spruce=2C takes epoxy like a spon
ge=2C I took a piece
of plastic drain pipe filled it with hot boiling water stuck the DF strip i
n and let if soak
it bends like crazy but retians the shape and gets it's strength back when
it dries. My Longerons
will be DF 1 x 3/4 inch because it's heavier than spruce so I will take off
1/4 inch.
To test the motorcycle trailer I pulled it behind my truck loaded with 600
lb's
at 80 mph=2C there's no metal in the trialer except the short piece of angl
e where the leaf springs attach=2C
it's very strong.
Russell
On Sat=2C Sep 26=2C 2009 at 2:30 AM=2C Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca> wr
ote:
Red Cedar=2C because of it's low density=2C is only 2/3 the
strength of Spruce. In other words if you wanted to
use it in place of a 1" wide spruce or hemlock spar
you would have to make it 1 1/2" wide.
Port orford is completely different from red. Port
Orford is actually stronger than spruce.
Clif
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave and Connie" <dmatt@frontiernet.net
>
Sent: Friday=2C September 25=2C 2009 5:14 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options
t>
Quite a few years ago I was going to build a Pietenpol. I bought the
Western Aircraft wood and started. A Taylorcraft=2C kids=2C and many other
things got in the way so I sold the wood. The guy that bought it didn't
want the plans so I kept them.
I am thinking about picking up some wood and making a set of ribs this
winter. If I get them done I will look for another piece to build.
Locally I can easily get the following:
Poplar
White Pine
Radiata Pine
Western Red Cedar
undefined versions of Hemlock
Douglas Fir flooring
The poplar and western red cedar are probably the easiest to find good
wood but clear white pine is also available.
What would be the first couple of preferences for wood? I was thinking
of using red cedar because I had read that Charlie Rubeck (?) had used
that. Looking at the archives there seems to be some disagreement on
the type of cedar (red or Port Oxford) he used and there is a huge
difference in the characteristics between the types.
Dave
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
17:52:00
ch as List Un/Subscription=2C
www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" target="_blank">http://www.ma
tronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
Matt Dralle=2C List Admin.
====
=0A
_________________________________________________________________=0A
Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage limits.=0A
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tuto
rial_Storage_062009
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Don's lettering-- and now Don's prop |
Don,
While looking for your lettering, I could only find your new side panel lettering.
Please show us your tail numbers.
Also, I noted your very nifty prop. What is that on the leading edge of most of
it-- is that integral wood, or do you have a harder material (metal, fiber?)
to protect it?
BTW, I love the shot (Brodhead '09) of you gliding in to land, with a young blond
lad in the front pit. He is loving it and facing the camera. The photographer
captured the motion by panning, so the trees in the background are blurred.
The wheels and covers, your new side lettering, all set it off, so that the
plane looks 1929, well maybe 1936 (A-40 engine design). Neat.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Don Emch <EmchAir@aol.com>
>Sent: Sep 25, 2009 3:11 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering
>
>
>Kevin...
>
>I did the same thing as you with the lettering. I used someone else's. I borrowed
some of Frank Pavliga's pictures of Pietenpol's from the 1930's when I was
getting ready to paint. Of course, just like today there were many different
paint schemes and designs, but the one thing I really noticed was that none
of them used the standard issue block letters and numbers. These were pictures
from the very early '30's and those standard letters and numbers had not really
come into use yet. So I picked one style that I thought was simple and
'Pietenpol-like', whatever that might be. When the sign painter arrived I just
handed her the picture and said, "paint the numbers like those ones". This
summer I added a little lettering to the side of the fuselage. Very simple and
basic, but for those I just went to my friend down the road who does vinyl lettering
and had her make a stencil for me that I then brushed on with "1 shot"
sign paint. Very simple and much cheaper than payi
!
> ng a sign painter to do it. However it does not look anything like what a good
sign painter can do. Those sign painter are very talented!
>
>Again Kevin, super looking airplane!
>
>Don Emch
>NX899DE
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering |
The paint they use id called: "One Shot" great sign painters paint and come
s in a few different sizedcontainerss. It has the durability and lasting qu
alities that will amaze you!
-
KMHeide
Fargo, ND
-
--- On Fri, 9/25/09, Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
Subject: Re:Pietenpol-List: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering
Don
What kind of paint do those sign painters use? Will they use the same paint
we used for our top coat if we provided it for them to use?
rick
On Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 2:11 PM, Don Emch <EmchAir@aol.com> wrote:
Kevin...
I did the same thing as you with the lettering. -I used someone else's.
-I borrowed some of Frank Pavliga's pictures of Pietenpol's from the 1930
's when I was getting ready to paint. -Of course, just like today there w
ere many different paint schemes and designs, but the one thing I really no
ticed was that none of them used the standard issue block letters and numbe
rs. -These were pictures from the very early '30's and those standard let
ters and numbers had not really come into use yet. -So I picked one style
-that I thought was simple and 'Pietenpol-like', whatever that might be.
-When the sign painter arrived I just handed her the picture and said, "
paint the numbers like those ones". -This summer I added a little letteri
ng to the side of the fuselage. -Very simple and basic, but for those I j
ust went to my friend down the road who does vinyl lettering and had her ma
ke a stencil for me that I then brushed on with "1 shot" sign paint. -Ver
y
simple and much cheaper than payi!
-ng a sign painter to do it. -However it does not look anything like wh
at a good sign painter can do. -Those sign painter are very talented!
Again Kevin, super looking airplane!
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264997#264997
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
=0A=0A=0A
Message 7
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Subject: | More cables and turnbuckles |
On selecting cables: students, take out your Tony Bingelis
"Sportplane Builder" and turn to the section on cables. Like
most of these topics, Tony has it all, says it clearly, and
has pictures and drawings to help. Easy.
There is a reason for using finer stranding for control
cables and coarser for standing rigging. There is a reason
for using galvanized over stainless and vice-versa. And
aircraft control cable is impregnated (or the strands are
coated) with a dry lubricant that hardware store cable does
not have, so it's not just about the rated strength of the
cable, it's also about corrosion resistance and some of the
cabling on a Piet hangs out in the elements.
"Step right up folks, get yer Tony! Right here, get your
Bingelis books!"
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 8
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|
One other thing to consider if you don't have cables run
to your tailwheel and the tail is already covered is that
you can go the GN-1 route and link the tailwheel steering
to the rudder itself, not to the rudder cables. The
rudder needs to be stiffened but it may be easier for some
to do it that way than to run a new set of tailwheel
steering cables up to the rudder bar.
See the last couple of pix at
http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/piets4.html
for how it's done on the GN-1.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: More cables and turnbuckles |
No kidding Oscar! Ha ha!
I see this all the time, and now I am a victim too. There are a lot of things
I pick up on by looking at the prints or reading related material, but sometimes
I get so use to bouncing questions off the people on here that I forget that
the books are on the shelf.
Thanks for the reminder... I'm going to brush up right now.
--------
Mark - working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265136#265136
Message 10
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Check out actual lumberyards as most big chain stores won't have the high quality
stuff. I did a quick search as an example and found 10 places listed as lumberyards
near (within about 20 miles) Stow Ohio. Some places can order you wood
from their distributor if you specify what you need. It can be found just takes
some time. I bought my Douglas fir from a local out of the way place and was
amazed at the quality difference between them and Home Depot or Lowes.
Rodney Hall
---- Doug Dever <chiefpepperhead@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Yeah it would be great if Lowe's even carried Douglas Fir around here. I can
get construction grade fir. Built my addition with it. I wouldn't be afraid
to use western region spf lumber. But here in the east spf includes balsam fir.
Be careful on poplar. Needs to be yellow poplar or tulip wood
> . Out west "poplar" may be cottonwood or aspen. Not suitable.
>
>
> Doug Dever
> In beautiful Stow Ohio
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2009 05:50:46 -0400
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options
> From: rray032003@gmail.com
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>
>
> I found enough strainght grained knot free Douglas Fur to build a Piet at Lowe's,
strange it was in the section they
> place specialty and project woods like poplar, oak. It was on sale no one wanted
it so I loaded all
> on the cart and took it home, it was marked down on sale cheaper than construction
grade spruce
> and pine. Around here you can get Poplar from a saw mill of course it's green
and you'll have to
> have them quarter saw it, my sister's farm is covered with poplar. If I want
it I just pick a tree
> with no limbs up to 25 feet and haul it to the saw mill. Also I bought boat grade
DF from a
> mill in BC for 4 dollars a board foot, the ends were sealed the boards were 18'
long and it is
> fine, they shipped I don't remember the charge, I like the DF, I've built a motorcycle
trailer
> out of it it's probably 18% stronger than spruce, takes epoxy like a sponge,
I took a piece
> of plastic drain pipe filled it with hot boiling water stuck the DF strip in
and let if soak
> it bends like crazy but retians the shape and gets it's strength back when it
dries. My Longerons
> will be DF 1 x 3/4 inch because it's heavier than spruce so I will take off 1/4
inch.
> To test the motorcycle trailer I pulled it behind my truck loaded with 600 lb's
> at 80 mph, there's no metal in the trialer except the short piece of angle where
the leaf springs attach,
> it's very strong.
>
> Russell
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 2:30 AM, Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
>
> Red Cedar, because of it's low density, is only 2/3 the
> strength of Spruce. In other words if you wanted to
> use it in place of a 1" wide spruce or hemlock spar
> you would have to make it 1 1/2" wide.
>
> Port orford is completely different from red. Port
> Orford is actually stronger than spruce.
>
> Clif
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave and Connie" <dmatt@frontiernet.net>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 5:14 PM
>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options
>
>
>
>
> Quite a few years ago I was going to build a Pietenpol. I bought the
> Western Aircraft wood and started. A Taylorcraft, kids, and many other
> things got in the way so I sold the wood. The guy that bought it didn't
> want the plans so I kept them.
>
> I am thinking about picking up some wood and making a set of ribs this
> winter. If I get them done I will look for another piece to build.
>
> Locally I can easily get the following:
> Poplar
> White Pine
> Radiata Pine
> Western Red Cedar
> undefined versions of Hemlock
> Douglas Fir flooring
>
> The poplar and western red cedar are probably the easiest to find good
> wood but clear white pine is also available.
>
> What would be the first couple of preferences for wood? I was thinking
> of using red cedar because I had read that Charlie Rubeck (?) had used
> that. Looking at the archives there seems to be some disagreement on
> the type of cedar (red or Port Oxford) he used and there is a huge
> difference in the characteristics between the types.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 17:52:00
>
> ch as List Un/Subscription,
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ====
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_Storage_062009
Message 11
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|
Rodney=2C
You are right except a friend of mine owns a lumber yard that caters to hig
h end custom builders. He can order Doug Fir but only construction grade n
ot cv doug fir. Cv doug fir is not available in this part of the country.
Yellow poplar (tulip wood) is however I canot fid good stuf locally. Chec
ked a few places. everything is flat sawn. However my friend will let me
pick through anything in the yard. I built most of my addition with Doug F
ir because SPF lumber only goes to 20ft. Doug Fir goes to 32ft. Western r
egion SPF would be fine for aircraft because it does not include Balsam Fir
. Jack Pine which comprises a lot of eastern region SPF lumber is a great
wood. Stronger and lighter than Sitka Spruce=2C but you don't know what yo
ur getting.
The reason I considered SPF lumber was that as I was cutting up some for my
rib jig I noticed it was beautiful stuff. Probably because I didn't buy i
t from the chains
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
> Date: Sat=2C 26 Sep 2009 17:17:17 -0400
> From: r.r.hall@cox.net
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options
>
>
> Check out actual lumberyards as most big chain stores won't have the high
quality stuff. I did a quick search as an example and found 10 places list
ed as lumberyards near (within about 20 miles) Stow Ohio. Some places can o
rder you wood from their distributor if you specify what you need. It can b
e found just takes some time. I bought my Douglas fir from a local out of t
he way place and was amazed at the quality difference between them and Home
Depot or Lowes.
>
> Rodney Hall
>
> ---- Doug Dever <chiefpepperhead@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Yeah it would be great if Lowe's even carried Douglas Fir around here.
I can get construction grade fir. Built my addition with it. I wouldn't be
afraid to use western region spf lumber. But here in the east spf includes
balsam fir. Be careful on poplar. Needs to be yellow poplar or tulip wood
> > . Out west "poplar" may be cottonwood or aspen. Not suitable.
> >
> >
> > Doug Dever
> > In beautiful Stow Ohio
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Date: Sat=2C 26 Sep 2009 05:50:46 -0400
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options
> > From: rray032003@gmail.com
> > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> >
> >
> > I found enough strainght grained knot free Douglas Fur to build a Piet
at Lowe's=2C strange it was in the section they
> > place specialty and project woods like poplar=2C oak. It was on sale no
one wanted it so I loaded all
> > on the cart and took it home=2C it was marked down on sale cheaper than
construction grade spruce
> > and pine. Around here you can get Poplar from a saw mill of course it's
green and you'll have to
> > have them quarter saw it=2C my sister's farm is covered with poplar. If
I want it I just pick a tree
> > with no limbs up to 25 feet and haul it to the saw mill. Also I bought
boat grade DF from a
> > mill in BC for 4 dollars a board foot=2C the ends were sealed the board
s were 18' long and it is
> > fine=2C they shipped I don't remember the charge=2C I like the DF=2C I'
ve built a motorcycle trailer
> > out of it it's probably 18% stronger than spruce=2C takes epoxy like a
sponge=2C I took a piece
> > of plastic drain pipe filled it with hot boiling water stuck the DF str
ip in and let if soak
> > it bends like crazy but retians the shape and gets it's strength back w
hen it dries. My Longerons
> > will be DF 1 x 3/4 inch because it's heavier than spruce so I will take
off 1/4 inch.
> > To test the motorcycle trailer I pulled it behind my truck loaded with
600 lb's
> > at 80 mph=2C there's no metal in the trialer except the short piece of
angle where the leaf springs attach=2C
> > it's very strong.
> >
> > Russell
> >
> >
> > On Sat=2C Sep 26=2C 2009 at 2:30 AM=2C Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca
> wrote:
> >
a>
> >
> > Red Cedar=2C because of it's low density=2C is only 2/3 the
> > strength of Spruce. In other words if you wanted to
> > use it in place of a 1" wide spruce or hemlock spar
> > you would have to make it 1 1/2" wide.
> >
> > Port orford is completely different from red. Port
> > Orford is actually stronger than spruce.
> >
> > Clif
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave and Connie" <dmatt@frontiernet
.net>
> > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Friday=2C September 25=2C 2009 5:14 PM
> >
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options
> >
> >
> >
t.net>
> >
> > Quite a few years ago I was going to build a Pietenpol. I bought the
> > Western Aircraft wood and started. A Taylorcraft=2C kids=2C and many ot
her
> > things got in the way so I sold the wood. The guy that bought it didn't
> > want the plans so I kept them.
> >
> > I am thinking about picking up some wood and making a set of ribs this
> > winter. If I get them done I will look for another piece to build.
> >
> > Locally I can easily get the following:
> > Poplar
> > White Pine
> > Radiata Pine
> > Western Red Cedar
> > undefined versions of Hemlock
> > Douglas Fir flooring
> >
> > The poplar and western red cedar are probably the easiest to find good
> > wood but clear white pine is also available.
> >
> > What would be the first couple of preferences for wood? I was thinking
> > of using red cedar because I had read that Charlie Rubeck (?) had used
> > that. Looking at the archives there seems to be some disagreement on
> > the type of cedar (red or Port Oxford) he used and there is a huge
> > difference in the characteristics between the types.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
> >
> >
> >
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > 17:52:00
> >
> > ch as List Un/Subscription=2C
> > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" target="_blank">http://ww
w.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> > ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> > Matt Dralle=2C List Admin.
> > ====
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage limits.
> http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tu
torial_Storage_062009
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>
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>
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Any one willing to recycle a rib jig. I am happy to pay for shipping. Tha
nks =0A
_________________________________________________________________=0A
Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC that=92s right for you.=0A
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290
Message 13
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Rib jigs are easy... built mine in one day. Get some MDF press board, mark off
some of the critical measurements (spar spacing, top and bottom caps, etc.) and
start placing blocks. I also cut all my blocks from MDF, which kept the parts
list simple. It's not a real fancy one with spring loaded clamps and such,
but I did make use of 1" round dowel for locking cams, which allow for easier
part placement and removal. I used the glue and nail method on my ribs, so
I was able to keep it a little simpler than some of the clamp jigs. Just preference...
it worked good though... all the ribs came out identical.
Seriously, for the same money you spend on freight you could purchase the materials,
and then you would always have it in case you needed to make repairs. Look
at the wing section of my log (link below) for more details on my jig. It
is just one of many, but it is pretty simple.
--------
Mark - working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265168#265168
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Usually when someone brings up the subject of rib jigs or starting to build
ribs the subject of alternative airfoils comes up. But i'm not going to do
it....
rick
On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 8:25 PM, K5YAC <hangar10@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Rib jigs are easy... built mine in one day. Get some MDF press board, mark
> off some of the critical measurements (spar spacing, top and bottom caps,
> etc.) and start placing blocks. I also cut all my blocks from MDF, which
> kept the parts list simple. It's not a real fancy one with spring loaded
> clamps and such, but I did make use of 1" round dowel for locking cams,
> which allow for easier part placement and removal. I used the glue and nail
> method on my ribs, so I was able to keep it a little simpler than some of
> the clamp jigs. Just preference... it worked good though... all the ribs
> came out identical.
>
> Seriously, for the same money you spend on freight you could purchase the
> materials, and then you would always have it in case you needed to make
> repairs. Look at the wing section of my log (link below) for more details
> on my jig. It is just one of many, but it is pretty simple.
>
> --------
> Mark - working on wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265168#265168
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
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Subject: | Mike Cuy Sketches and Pictures |
I have added Mike Cuy's pictures and sketches to the website. If you are
like me and were inspired by Mike plane you will find the numerouse pictures
and sketches Mike sent in to be really helpfull. I know I have found a
thing or two I was curious about. The pictures can be found here.
http://westcoastpiet.com/mike_cuy_page_2.htm
His sketches can be found here.
http://westcoastpiet.com/design_sketches.htm
Thanks Mike for taking the time to send the pictures.
As always, anyone who wants to send pictures or information to include on
WestCoastPiet.com feel free to send them to me.
Chris
Sacramento, CA
WestCoastPiet.com
Message 16
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Subject: | Dan Helsper's Rotating Wing Jig |
Here are additional pictures of Dan Helsper's wing rotaing jig he used
for covering and painting.
http://westcoastpiet.com/dan_helsper.htm
Chris
Sacramento, CA
WestCoastPiet.com
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Subject: | Re: 16 years to complete Kevin's airplane-- explained |
!
i now what you talkin about Im stok in my proyect for 10 year and only fini
shed fuse parts of landin gears and tail section the same dilema.
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, kevinpurtee <kevin.purtee@us.army.mil> wrote:
From: kevinpurtee <kevin.purtee@us.army.mil>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: 16 years to complete Kevin's airplane-- explai
ned !
il>
There's some truth to that.- My life circumstances have changed significa
ntly over the last two years, to include an airplane friendly girlfriend, s
o progress really picked up.
There was other stuff, too, but, yeah, married was definitely a factor.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264759#264759
le, List Admin.
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