---------------------------------------------------------- Pietenpol-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 09/26/09: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:53 AM - Re: Wood Options (Robert Ray) 2. 04:48 AM - Re: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering (Don Emch) 3. 05:13 AM - Re: Wood Options (Ameet Savant) 4. 06:15 AM - Re: Wood Options (Doug Dever) 5. 07:24 AM - Re: Don's lettering-- and now Don's prop (Tim Willis) 6. 08:23 AM - Re: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP) 7. 09:24 AM - More cables and turnbuckles (Oscar Zuniga) 8. 09:26 AM - tailwheels (Oscar Zuniga) 9. 12:22 PM - Re: More cables and turnbuckles (K5YAC) 10. 02:21 PM - Re: Wood Options () 11. 03:00 PM - Re: Wood Options (Doug Dever) 12. 04:21 PM - Rib Jig (stephen labash) 13. 07:27 PM - Re: Rib Jig (K5YAC) 14. 08:23 PM - Re: Re: Rib Jig (Rick Holland) 15. 10:10 PM - Mike Cuy Sketches and Pictures () 16. 10:11 PM - Dan Helsper's Rotating Wing Jig () 17. 10:54 PM - Re: Re: 16 years to complete Kevin's airplane-- explained ! (jorge lizarraga) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:53:19 AM PST US Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options From: Robert Ray I found enough strainght grained knot free Douglas Fur to build a Piet at Lowe's, strange it was in the section they place specialty and project woods like poplar, oak. It was on sale no one wanted it so I loaded all on the cart and took it home, it was marked down on sale cheaper than construction grade spruce and pine. Around here you can get Poplar from a saw mill of course it's green and you'll have to have them quarter saw it, my sister's farm is covered with poplar. If I want it I just pick a tree with no limbs up to 25 feet and haul it to the saw mill. Also I bought boat grade DF from a mill in BC for 4 dollars a board foot, the ends were sealed the boards were 18' long and it is fine, they shipped I don't remember the charge, I like the DF, I've built a motorcycle trailer out of it it's probably 18% stronger than spruce, takes epoxy like a sponge, I took a piece of plastic drain pipe filled it with hot boiling water stuck the DF strip in and let if soak it bends like crazy but retians the shape and gets it's strength back when it dries. My Longerons will be DF 1 x 3/4 inch because it's heavier than spruce so I will take off 1/4 inch. To test the motorcycle trailer I pulled it behind my truck loaded with 600 lb's at 80 mph, there's no metal in the trialer except the short piece of angle where the leaf springs attach, it's very strong. Russell On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 2:30 AM, Clif Dawson wrote: > > Red Cedar, because of it's low density, is only 2/3 the > strength of Spruce. In other words if you wanted to > use it in place of a 1" wide spruce or hemlock spar > you would have to make it 1 1/2" wide. > > Port orford is completely different from red. Port > Orford is actually stronger than spruce. > > Clif > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave and Connie" < > dmatt@frontiernet.net> > To: > Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 5:14 PM > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options > > >> dmatt@frontiernet.net> >> >> Quite a few years ago I was going to build a Pietenpol. I bought the >> Western Aircraft wood and started. A Taylorcraft, kids, and many other >> things got in the way so I sold the wood. The guy that bought it didn't >> want the plans so I kept them. >> >> I am thinking about picking up some wood and making a set of ribs this >> winter. If I get them done I will look for another piece to build. >> >> Locally I can easily get the following: >> Poplar >> White Pine >> Radiata Pine >> Western Red Cedar >> undefined versions of Hemlock >> Douglas Fir flooring >> >> The poplar and western red cedar are probably the easiest to find good >> wood but clear white pine is also available. >> >> What would be the first couple of preferences for wood? I was thinking >> of using red cedar because I had read that Charlie Rubeck (?) had used >> that. Looking at the archives there seems to be some disagreement on >> the type of cedar (red or Port Oxford) he used and there is a huge >> difference in the characteristics between the types. >> >> Dave >> >> >> >> >> > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > 17:52:00 > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:48:04 AM PST US Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering From: "Don Emch" I'm sure a lot of different paints can be used. "1 Shot" is a very popular sign paint. That's what is on mine. In using it for my fuselage, I found it is really nice to work with. It has just the right consistency for painting vertical surfaces with a brush. I'm sure the quality of brush helps too. I sprung for an average quality one. It was tiny and cost about 30 bucks! Although I haven't tried it, I hear it comes off with "Easy Off" oven cleaner and it won't harm the dope. So if there is something you need to remove that can be a possibility. I sure wish I had the talent of a sign painter, they are amazing to watch! Here is the link to "1 Shot" http://www.1shot.com/ Luckily I have a dealer near me. They tried to give me a quick lesson, Ha! There ain't no quick learning it! Which is the reason the lettering I did the lettering on the side of my with a stencil and they are very simple letters. See it here; http://public.fotki.com/dwbrant/fancies-of-flight/pietenpol-80th-anni/5d022692.html This is the work of a sign painter; http://public.fotki.com/dwbrant/fancies-of-flight/pietenpol-80th-anni/5d022683.html Ha! Little different! Don Emch NX899DE Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265085#265085 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:13:44 AM PST US Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options From: Ameet Savant Dave, I recently read through the 1942 War Department Manual on Aircraft Woodworking (TM 1-414) and they say Poplar is a direct replacement for Sitka Spruce with no need of engineering changes. By the way, the manual is a great read and has some really good tips. Ameet On Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 7:14 PM, Dave and Connie wrote: > dmatt@frontiernet.net> > > Quite a few years ago I was going to build a Pietenpol. I bought the > Western Aircraft wood and started. A Taylorcraft, kids, and many other > things got in the way so I sold the wood. The guy that bought it didn't > want the plans so I kept them. > > I am thinking about picking up some wood and making a set of ribs this > winter. If I get them done I will look for another piece to build. > > Locally I can easily get the following: > Poplar > White Pine > Radiata Pine > Western Red Cedar > undefined versions of Hemlock > Douglas Fir flooring > > The poplar and western red cedar are probably the easiest to find good wood > but clear white pine is also available. > > What would be the first couple of preferences for wood? I was thinking of > using red cedar because I had read that Charlie Rubeck (?) had used that. > Looking at the archives there seems to be some disagreement on the type of > cedar (red or Port Oxford) he used and there is a huge difference in the > characteristics between the types. > > Dave > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:15:05 AM PST US From: Doug Dever Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options Yeah it would be great if Lowe's even carried Douglas Fir around here. I c an get construction grade fir. Built my addition with it. I wouldn't be a fraid to use western region spf lumber. But here in the east spf includes balsam fir. Be careful on poplar. Needs to be yellow poplar or tulip wo od . Out west "poplar" may be cottonwood or aspen. Not suitable. Doug Dever In beautiful Stow Ohio Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options From: rray032003@gmail.com I found enough strainght grained knot free Douglas Fur to build a Piet at L owe's=2C strange it was in the section they place specialty and project woods like poplar=2C oak. It was on sale no one wanted it so I loaded all on the cart and took it home=2C it was marked down on sale cheaper than con struction grade spruce and pine. Around here you can get Poplar from a saw mill of course it's gre en and you'll have to have them quarter saw it=2C my sister's farm is covered with poplar. If I w ant it I just pick a tree with no limbs up to 25 feet and haul it to the saw mill. Also I bought boat grade DF from a mill in BC for 4 dollars a board foot=2C the ends were sealed the boards we re 18' long and it is fine=2C they shipped I don't remember the charge=2C I like the DF=2C I've b uilt a motorcycle trailer out of it it's probably 18% stronger than spruce=2C takes epoxy like a spon ge=2C I took a piece of plastic drain pipe filled it with hot boiling water stuck the DF strip i n and let if soak it bends like crazy but retians the shape and gets it's strength back when it dries. My Longerons will be DF 1 x 3/4 inch because it's heavier than spruce so I will take off 1/4 inch. To test the motorcycle trailer I pulled it behind my truck loaded with 600 lb's at 80 mph=2C there's no metal in the trialer except the short piece of angl e where the leaf springs attach=2C it's very strong. Russell On Sat=2C Sep 26=2C 2009 at 2:30 AM=2C Clif Dawson wr ote: Red Cedar=2C because of it's low density=2C is only 2/3 the strength of Spruce. In other words if you wanted to use it in place of a 1" wide spruce or hemlock spar you would have to make it 1 1/2" wide. Port orford is completely different from red. Port Orford is actually stronger than spruce. Clif ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave and Connie" Sent: Friday=2C September 25=2C 2009 5:14 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options t> Quite a few years ago I was going to build a Pietenpol. I bought the Western Aircraft wood and started. A Taylorcraft=2C kids=2C and many other things got in the way so I sold the wood. The guy that bought it didn't want the plans so I kept them. I am thinking about picking up some wood and making a set of ribs this winter. If I get them done I will look for another piece to build. Locally I can easily get the following: Poplar White Pine Radiata Pine Western Red Cedar undefined versions of Hemlock Douglas Fir flooring The poplar and western red cedar are probably the easiest to find good wood but clear white pine is also available. What would be the first couple of preferences for wood? I was thinking of using red cedar because I had read that Charlie Rubeck (?) had used that. Looking at the archives there seems to be some disagreement on the type of cedar (red or Port Oxford) he used and there is a huge difference in the characteristics between the types. Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 17:52:00 ch as List Un/Subscription=2C www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" target="_blank">http://www.ma tronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com Matt Dralle=2C List Admin. ==== =0A _________________________________________________________________=0A Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage limits.=0A http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tuto rial_Storage_062009 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:24:39 AM PST US From: Tim Willis Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Don's lettering-- and now Don's prop Don, While looking for your lettering, I could only find your new side panel lettering. Please show us your tail numbers. Also, I noted your very nifty prop. What is that on the leading edge of most of it-- is that integral wood, or do you have a harder material (metal, fiber?) to protect it? BTW, I love the shot (Brodhead '09) of you gliding in to land, with a young blond lad in the front pit. He is loving it and facing the camera. The photographer captured the motion by panning, so the trees in the background are blurred. The wheels and covers, your new side lettering, all set it off, so that the plane looks 1929, well maybe 1936 (A-40 engine design). Neat. Tim in central TX -----Original Message----- >From: Don Emch >Sent: Sep 25, 2009 3:11 PM >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering > > >Kevin... > >I did the same thing as you with the lettering. I used someone else's. I borrowed some of Frank Pavliga's pictures of Pietenpol's from the 1930's when I was getting ready to paint. Of course, just like today there were many different paint schemes and designs, but the one thing I really noticed was that none of them used the standard issue block letters and numbers. These were pictures from the very early '30's and those standard letters and numbers had not really come into use yet. So I picked one style that I thought was simple and 'Pietenpol-like', whatever that might be. When the sign painter arrived I just handed her the picture and said, "paint the numbers like those ones". This summer I added a little lettering to the side of the fuselage. Very simple and basic, but for those I just went to my friend down the road who does vinyl lettering and had her make a stencil for me that I then brushed on with "1 shot" sign paint. Very simple and much cheaper than payi ! > ng a sign painter to do it. However it does not look anything like what a good sign painter can do. Those sign painter are very talented! > >Again Kevin, super looking airplane! > >Don Emch >NX899DE > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:23:33 AM PST US From: "KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering The paint they use id called: "One Shot" great sign painters paint and come s in a few different sizedcontainerss. It has the durability and lasting qu alities that will amaze you! - KMHeide Fargo, ND - --- On Fri, 9/25/09, Rick Holland wrote: From: Rick Holland Subject: Re:Pietenpol-List: Kevin's Airplane and Lettering Don What kind of paint do those sign painters use? Will they use the same paint we used for our top coat if we provided it for them to use? rick On Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 2:11 PM, Don Emch wrote: Kevin... I did the same thing as you with the lettering. -I used someone else's. -I borrowed some of Frank Pavliga's pictures of Pietenpol's from the 1930 's when I was getting ready to paint. -Of course, just like today there w ere many different paint schemes and designs, but the one thing I really no ticed was that none of them used the standard issue block letters and numbe rs. -These were pictures from the very early '30's and those standard let ters and numbers had not really come into use yet. -So I picked one style -that I thought was simple and 'Pietenpol-like', whatever that might be. -When the sign painter arrived I just handed her the picture and said, " paint the numbers like those ones". -This summer I added a little letteri ng to the side of the fuselage. -Very simple and basic, but for those I j ust went to my friend down the road who does vinyl lettering and had her ma ke a stencil for me that I then brushed on with "1 shot" sign paint. -Ver y simple and much cheaper than payi! -ng a sign painter to do it. -However it does not look anything like wh at a good sign painter can do. -Those sign painter are very talented! Again Kevin, super looking airplane! Don Emch NX899DE Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264997#264997 st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List http://forums.matronics.com le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution -- Rick Holland Castle Rock, Colorado "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad" =0A=0A=0A ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:24:47 AM PST US From: Oscar Zuniga Subject: Pietenpol-List: More cables and turnbuckles On selecting cables: students, take out your Tony Bingelis "Sportplane Builder" and turn to the section on cables. Like most of these topics, Tony has it all, says it clearly, and has pictures and drawings to help. Easy. There is a reason for using finer stranding for control cables and coarser for standing rigging. There is a reason for using galvanized over stainless and vice-versa. And aircraft control cable is impregnated (or the strands are coated) with a dry lubricant that hardware store cable does not have, so it's not just about the rated strength of the cable, it's also about corrosion resistance and some of the cabling on a Piet hangs out in the elements. "Step right up folks, get yer Tony! Right here, get your Bingelis books!" Oscar Zuniga Air Camper NX41CC San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:26:40 AM PST US From: Oscar Zuniga Subject: Pietenpol-List: tailwheels One other thing to consider if you don't have cables run to your tailwheel and the tail is already covered is that you can go the GN-1 route and link the tailwheel steering to the rudder itself, not to the rudder cables. The rudder needs to be stiffened but it may be easier for some to do it that way than to run a new set of tailwheel steering cables up to the rudder bar. See the last couple of pix at http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/piets4.html for how it's done on the GN-1. Oscar Zuniga Air Camper NX41CC San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:22:17 PM PST US Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: More cables and turnbuckles From: "K5YAC" No kidding Oscar! Ha ha! I see this all the time, and now I am a victim too. There are a lot of things I pick up on by looking at the prints or reading related material, but sometimes I get so use to bouncing questions off the people on here that I forget that the books are on the shelf. Thanks for the reminder... I'm going to brush up right now. -------- Mark - working on wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265136#265136 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 02:21:37 PM PST US From: Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options Check out actual lumberyards as most big chain stores won't have the high quality stuff. I did a quick search as an example and found 10 places listed as lumberyards near (within about 20 miles) Stow Ohio. Some places can order you wood from their distributor if you specify what you need. It can be found just takes some time. I bought my Douglas fir from a local out of the way place and was amazed at the quality difference between them and Home Depot or Lowes. Rodney Hall ---- Doug Dever wrote: > > Yeah it would be great if Lowe's even carried Douglas Fir around here. I can get construction grade fir. Built my addition with it. I wouldn't be afraid to use western region spf lumber. But here in the east spf includes balsam fir. Be careful on poplar. Needs to be yellow poplar or tulip wood > . Out west "poplar" may be cottonwood or aspen. Not suitable. > > > Doug Dever > In beautiful Stow Ohio > > > > > > > Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2009 05:50:46 -0400 > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options > From: rray032003@gmail.com > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > > > I found enough strainght grained knot free Douglas Fur to build a Piet at Lowe's, strange it was in the section they > place specialty and project woods like poplar, oak. It was on sale no one wanted it so I loaded all > on the cart and took it home, it was marked down on sale cheaper than construction grade spruce > and pine. Around here you can get Poplar from a saw mill of course it's green and you'll have to > have them quarter saw it, my sister's farm is covered with poplar. If I want it I just pick a tree > with no limbs up to 25 feet and haul it to the saw mill. Also I bought boat grade DF from a > mill in BC for 4 dollars a board foot, the ends were sealed the boards were 18' long and it is > fine, they shipped I don't remember the charge, I like the DF, I've built a motorcycle trailer > out of it it's probably 18% stronger than spruce, takes epoxy like a sponge, I took a piece > of plastic drain pipe filled it with hot boiling water stuck the DF strip in and let if soak > it bends like crazy but retians the shape and gets it's strength back when it dries. My Longerons > will be DF 1 x 3/4 inch because it's heavier than spruce so I will take off 1/4 inch. > To test the motorcycle trailer I pulled it behind my truck loaded with 600 lb's > at 80 mph, there's no metal in the trialer except the short piece of angle where the leaf springs attach, > it's very strong. > > Russell > > > On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 2:30 AM, Clif Dawson wrote: > > > Red Cedar, because of it's low density, is only 2/3 the > strength of Spruce. In other words if you wanted to > use it in place of a 1" wide spruce or hemlock spar > you would have to make it 1 1/2" wide. > > Port orford is completely different from red. Port > Orford is actually stronger than spruce. > > Clif > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave and Connie" > To: > Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 5:14 PM > > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options > > > > > Quite a few years ago I was going to build a Pietenpol. I bought the > Western Aircraft wood and started. A Taylorcraft, kids, and many other > things got in the way so I sold the wood. The guy that bought it didn't > want the plans so I kept them. > > I am thinking about picking up some wood and making a set of ribs this > winter. If I get them done I will look for another piece to build. > > Locally I can easily get the following: > Poplar > White Pine > Radiata Pine > Western Red Cedar > undefined versions of Hemlock > Douglas Fir flooring > > The poplar and western red cedar are probably the easiest to find good > wood but clear white pine is also available. > > What would be the first couple of preferences for wood? I was thinking > of using red cedar because I had read that Charlie Rubeck (?) had used > that. Looking at the archives there seems to be some disagreement on > the type of cedar (red or Port Oxford) he used and there is a huge > difference in the characteristics between the types. > > Dave > > > > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > 17:52:00 > > ch as List Un/Subscription, > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List > ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > Matt Dralle, List Admin. > ==== > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_Storage_062009 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 03:00:39 PM PST US From: Doug Dever Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options Rodney=2C You are right except a friend of mine owns a lumber yard that caters to hig h end custom builders. He can order Doug Fir but only construction grade n ot cv doug fir. Cv doug fir is not available in this part of the country. Yellow poplar (tulip wood) is however I canot fid good stuf locally. Chec ked a few places. everything is flat sawn. However my friend will let me pick through anything in the yard. I built most of my addition with Doug F ir because SPF lumber only goes to 20ft. Doug Fir goes to 32ft. Western r egion SPF would be fine for aircraft because it does not include Balsam Fir . Jack Pine which comprises a lot of eastern region SPF lumber is a great wood. Stronger and lighter than Sitka Spruce=2C but you don't know what yo ur getting. The reason I considered SPF lumber was that as I was cutting up some for my rib jig I noticed it was beautiful stuff. Probably because I didn't buy i t from the chains Doug Dever In beautiful Stow Ohio > Date: Sat=2C 26 Sep 2009 17:17:17 -0400 > From: r.r.hall@cox.net > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options > > > Check out actual lumberyards as most big chain stores won't have the high quality stuff. I did a quick search as an example and found 10 places list ed as lumberyards near (within about 20 miles) Stow Ohio. Some places can o rder you wood from their distributor if you specify what you need. It can b e found just takes some time. I bought my Douglas fir from a local out of t he way place and was amazed at the quality difference between them and Home Depot or Lowes. > > Rodney Hall > > ---- Doug Dever wrote: > > > > Yeah it would be great if Lowe's even carried Douglas Fir around here. I can get construction grade fir. Built my addition with it. I wouldn't be afraid to use western region spf lumber. But here in the east spf includes balsam fir. Be careful on poplar. Needs to be yellow poplar or tulip wood > > . Out west "poplar" may be cottonwood or aspen. Not suitable. > > > > > > Doug Dever > > In beautiful Stow Ohio > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Date: Sat=2C 26 Sep 2009 05:50:46 -0400 > > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options > > From: rray032003@gmail.com > > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > > > > > > I found enough strainght grained knot free Douglas Fur to build a Piet at Lowe's=2C strange it was in the section they > > place specialty and project woods like poplar=2C oak. It was on sale no one wanted it so I loaded all > > on the cart and took it home=2C it was marked down on sale cheaper than construction grade spruce > > and pine. Around here you can get Poplar from a saw mill of course it's green and you'll have to > > have them quarter saw it=2C my sister's farm is covered with poplar. If I want it I just pick a tree > > with no limbs up to 25 feet and haul it to the saw mill. Also I bought boat grade DF from a > > mill in BC for 4 dollars a board foot=2C the ends were sealed the board s were 18' long and it is > > fine=2C they shipped I don't remember the charge=2C I like the DF=2C I' ve built a motorcycle trailer > > out of it it's probably 18% stronger than spruce=2C takes epoxy like a sponge=2C I took a piece > > of plastic drain pipe filled it with hot boiling water stuck the DF str ip in and let if soak > > it bends like crazy but retians the shape and gets it's strength back w hen it dries. My Longerons > > will be DF 1 x 3/4 inch because it's heavier than spruce so I will take off 1/4 inch. > > To test the motorcycle trailer I pulled it behind my truck loaded with 600 lb's > > at 80 mph=2C there's no metal in the trialer except the short piece of angle where the leaf springs attach=2C > > it's very strong. > > > > Russell > > > > > > On Sat=2C Sep 26=2C 2009 at 2:30 AM=2C Clif Dawson wrote: > > a> > > > > Red Cedar=2C because of it's low density=2C is only 2/3 the > > strength of Spruce. In other words if you wanted to > > use it in place of a 1" wide spruce or hemlock spar > > you would have to make it 1 1/2" wide. > > > > Port orford is completely different from red. Port > > Orford is actually stronger than spruce. > > > > Clif > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave and Connie" > > To: > > Sent: Friday=2C September 25=2C 2009 5:14 PM > > > > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood Options > > > > > > t.net> > > > > Quite a few years ago I was going to build a Pietenpol. I bought the > > Western Aircraft wood and started. A Taylorcraft=2C kids=2C and many ot her > > things got in the way so I sold the wood. The guy that bought it didn't > > want the plans so I kept them. > > > > I am thinking about picking up some wood and making a set of ribs this > > winter. If I get them done I will look for another piece to build. > > > > Locally I can easily get the following: > > Poplar > > White Pine > > Radiata Pine > > Western Red Cedar > > undefined versions of Hemlock > > Douglas Fir flooring > > > > The poplar and western red cedar are probably the easiest to find good > > wood but clear white pine is also available. > > > > What would be the first couple of preferences for wood? I was thinking > > of using red cedar because I had read that Charlie Rubeck (?) had used > > that. Looking at the archives there seems to be some disagreement on > > the type of cedar (red or Port Oxford) he used and there is a huge > > difference in the characteristics between the types. > > > > Dave > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- --------- > > > > > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > 17:52:00 > > > > ch as List Un/Subscription=2C > > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" target="_blank">http://ww w.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List > > ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > > Matt Dralle=2C List Admin. > > ==== > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage limits. > http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tu torial_Storage_062009 > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 04:21:47 PM PST US From: stephen labash Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib Jig Any one willing to recycle a rib jig. I am happy to pay for shipping. Tha nks =0A _________________________________________________________________=0A Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC that=92s right for you.=0A http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:27:26 PM PST US Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Rib Jig From: "K5YAC" Rib jigs are easy... built mine in one day. Get some MDF press board, mark off some of the critical measurements (spar spacing, top and bottom caps, etc.) and start placing blocks. I also cut all my blocks from MDF, which kept the parts list simple. It's not a real fancy one with spring loaded clamps and such, but I did make use of 1" round dowel for locking cams, which allow for easier part placement and removal. I used the glue and nail method on my ribs, so I was able to keep it a little simpler than some of the clamp jigs. Just preference... it worked good though... all the ribs came out identical. Seriously, for the same money you spend on freight you could purchase the materials, and then you would always have it in case you needed to make repairs. Look at the wing section of my log (link below) for more details on my jig. It is just one of many, but it is pretty simple. -------- Mark - working on wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265168#265168 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:23:24 PM PST US Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Rib Jig From: Rick Holland Usually when someone brings up the subject of rib jigs or starting to build ribs the subject of alternative airfoils comes up. But i'm not going to do it.... rick On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 8:25 PM, K5YAC wrote: > > Rib jigs are easy... built mine in one day. Get some MDF press board, mark > off some of the critical measurements (spar spacing, top and bottom caps, > etc.) and start placing blocks. I also cut all my blocks from MDF, which > kept the parts list simple. It's not a real fancy one with spring loaded > clamps and such, but I did make use of 1" round dowel for locking cams, > which allow for easier part placement and removal. I used the glue and nail > method on my ribs, so I was able to keep it a little simpler than some of > the clamp jigs. Just preference... it worked good though... all the ribs > came out identical. > > Seriously, for the same money you spend on freight you could purchase the > materials, and then you would always have it in case you needed to make > repairs. Look at the wing section of my log (link below) for more details > on my jig. It is just one of many, but it is pretty simple. > > -------- > Mark - working on wings > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265168#265168 > > -- Rick Holland Castle Rock, Colorado "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad" ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 10:10:01 PM PST US From: Subject: Pietenpol-List: Mike Cuy Sketches and Pictures I have added Mike Cuy's pictures and sketches to the website. If you are like me and were inspired by Mike plane you will find the numerouse pictures and sketches Mike sent in to be really helpfull. I know I have found a thing or two I was curious about. The pictures can be found here. http://westcoastpiet.com/mike_cuy_page_2.htm His sketches can be found here. http://westcoastpiet.com/design_sketches.htm Thanks Mike for taking the time to send the pictures. As always, anyone who wants to send pictures or information to include on WestCoastPiet.com feel free to send them to me. Chris Sacramento, CA WestCoastPiet.com ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 10:11:08 PM PST US From: Subject: Pietenpol-List: Dan Helsper's Rotating Wing Jig Here are additional pictures of Dan Helsper's wing rotaing jig he used for covering and painting. http://westcoastpiet.com/dan_helsper.htm Chris Sacramento, CA WestCoastPiet.com ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 10:54:11 PM PST US From: jorge lizarraga Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: 16 years to complete Kevin's airplane-- explained ! i now what you talkin about Im stok in my proyect for 10 year and only fini shed fuse parts of landin gears and tail section the same dilema. --- On Thu, 9/24/09, kevinpurtee wrote: From: kevinpurtee Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: 16 years to complete Kevin's airplane-- explai ned ! il> There's some truth to that.- My life circumstances have changed significa ntly over the last two years, to include an airplane friendly girlfriend, s o progress really picked up. There was other stuff, too, but, yeah, married was definitely a factor. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264759#264759 le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message pietenpol-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/pietenpol-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.