Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:14 AM - Re: 20 hour report (Jack)
2. 03:53 AM - Re: 20 hour report (Tim Willis)
3. 04:07 AM - Re: 20 hour report (John Recine)
4. 04:08 AM - Re: 20 hour report (helspersew@aol.com)
5. 04:09 AM - 106 years ago today-Prelude to flight (helspersew@aol.com)
6. 04:24 AM - Re: 20 hour report (Gary Boothe)
7. 07:18 AM - Re: 20 hour report (Barry Davis)
8. 08:13 AM - Re: Welding exhaust systems (Doug Dever)
9. 11:10 AM - Re: Welding exhaust systems (tkreiner)
10. 11:17 AM - Re: Welding exhaust systems (Bill Church)
11. 12:07 PM - For Sale Acer Tempo DX900 =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=94?=-$190 ,Apple iPhone 3GS 32GB $2 (pigpy)
12. 12:54 PM - Re: For Sale Acer Tempo DX900 =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=94?=-$190 ,Apple iPhone 3GS 32GB $2 (K5YAC)
13. 01:47 PM - Re: Split Gear Tubing Size-Fuselage Height (Don Emch)
14. 03:12 PM - Re: Re: Split Gear Tubing Size-Fuselage Height (Jack)
15. 03:44 PM - Re: Re: Split Gear Tubing Size-Fuselage Height (TOM MICHELLE BRANT)
16. 04:57 PM - Re: Re: Welding exhaust systems (Doug Dever)
17. 05:13 PM - Re: Re: Welding exhaust systems (Doug Dever)
18. 05:48 PM - Re: Re: Welding exhaust systems (John Recine)
19. 06:53 PM - Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Mark Roberts)
20. 07:06 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Jack Phillips)
21. 07:10 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Tim Willis)
22. 07:18 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Ken Howe)
23. 07:31 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Mark Roberts)
24. 07:50 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (David Paule)
25. 07:50 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (David Paule)
26. 07:54 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Matt Redmond)
27. 07:54 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Ryan Mueller)
28. 07:57 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Tim Willis)
29. 09:03 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Mark Roberts)
30. 09:32 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Matt Redmond)
31. 09:32 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...hello (jorge lizarraga)
Message 1
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Kevin,
Congratulations on your first 20 hours, great report. I wish you continued
safe flight and THANKS for serving our country!
Jack
DSM
Do not archive
NX899KP has 20 hours now. I've attached a report. Will submit pics to west
coast piet when I can.
Best regards,
Kevin Purtee
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270063#270063
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nx899kp_report_108.doc
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
19:49:00
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 20 hour report |
Great report, Kevin, thanks.
Tim in central TX
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
>From: kevinpurtee <kevin.purtee@us.army.mil>
>Sent: Oct 29, 2009 10:40 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: 20 hour report
>
>
>NX899KP has 20 hours now. I've attached a report. Will submit pics to west coast
piet when I can.
>
>Best regards,
>Kevin Purtee
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270063#270063
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/nx899kp_report_108.doc
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 20 hour report |
V29vZGVuIHN0cnV0cz8gSG1tbSBpbnRlcmVzdGluZy4gIEJpbGwgQyBhcHByb3ZlZD8gSG1tbW1t
Li4uLg0KDQpEbyBub3QgYXJjaGl2ZQ0KDQpKb2huDQpTZW50IGZyb20gbXkgVmVyaXpvbiBXaXJl
bGVzcyBCbGFja0JlcnJ5DQoNCi0tLS0tT3JpZ2luYWwgTWVzc2FnZS0tLS0tDQpGcm9tOiBUT00g
TUlDSEVMTEUgQlJBTlQgPHRtYnJhbnRAbXNuLmNvbT4NCkRhdGU6IFRodSwgMjkgT2N0IDIwMDkg
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Cj09PT09PT09PT09PQ0KPT09PT09PT09PT09DQo+IA0KPiANCj4gDQogICAgICAgICAgICAgICAg
ICAgICAgPQ0KDQo
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 20 hour report |
Very inspiring report. Good for you Kevin for finishing. Continued success
.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: kevinpurtee <kevin.purtee@us.army.mil>
Sent: Thu, Oct 29, 2009 10:40 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 20 hour report
mil>
NX899KP has 20 hours now. I've attached a report. Will submit pics to we
st
oast piet when I can.
Best regards,
evin Purtee
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270063#270063
ttachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nx899kp_report_108.doc
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Message 5
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| Subject: | 106 years ago today-Prelude to flight |
>From the diary of Orville Wright:
Friday, October 30th, 1903
Kitty Hawk, N.C.
Continued working on front rudder and completed it this evening. Took mach
ine out and turned it about ready for putting on tail in morning. Weighed
machine, with wires, and all connections, but minus tail and front rudder
frames and surfaces, which amounted to 227 lbs. Front rudder complete wei
ghs 29 lbs.
do not archive
Message 6
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Great report, Kevin! Looking forward to those pics...and, as Jack said,
thank you for your service!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(15 ribs down.)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kevinpurtee
Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 8:40 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 20 hour report
<kevin.purtee@us.army.mil>
NX899KP has 20 hours now. I've attached a report. Will submit pics to west
coast piet when I can.
Best regards,
Kevin Purtee
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270063#270063
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nx899kp_report_108.doc
Message 7
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Great report and congradulations!
Now I know how I got all those funny burnt marks on the side and etched
windows on my pickup truck. I learned very quickly not to park anything of
value near the Big Piet welders while they are working.
Barry Davis
NX973BP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kevinpurtee
Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 11:40 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 20 hour report
--> <kevin.purtee@us.army.mil>
NX899KP has 20 hours now. I've attached a report. Will submit pics to west
coast piet when I can.
Best regards,
Kevin Purtee
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270063#270063
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nx899kp_report_108.doc
Message 8
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| Subject: | Welding exhaust systems |
I think the person said it ignited at about 2200 deg F From the info I hav
e it melts at 3135 F which is about 400 above that of steel. An oxy acetyli
ne toch produces a flame of 5800-6300 F (a henrob is about 900deg hotter)
=2C so it would melt alright=2C but from what I gather it reacts terribly i
n the presence of oxygen and must be TIGed.
I'm a torch guy and have little experience with MIG or TIG. What experienc
e I have is in automated systems which is easy. I welded up torque converte
rs when I was in college. Assemble everything=2C set the torch distance and
push a button-lol. I have no experience with Ti other than drilling an ma
chining. Tool wear is a problem. More difficult than working with nitrided
steel
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
From: lnawms@yahoo.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Welding exhaust systems
Whoever posted about Titanium bursting into a white-hot inferno is just a t
ad off.
Titanium will not burst into flames at any temperature. It will melt at abo
ut 4400 F. degrees and that's way beyond what your torch is capable of. Mag
nesium on the other hand will combust and produce a white-hot flame even un
der water. That's why they use it in some military flares. If Titanium comb
usted at temps around 1000 degrees=2C the SR-71 would be a pile of cinders!
! Mag wheels on heavy aircraft are prone to overheating because of locked b
rakes and are considered extremely dangerous.
My wedding ring is Titanium so it will survive when I depart this existence
in a blinding flash of the purest white light. Moral: don't get a magnesiu
m wedding ring which could be the source of ignition for your departure.
Titanium must either be welded in an enclosed chamber or otherwise shielded
on both sides with an inert gas. Some Ti bicycle frames are welded in cabi
nets similar to a bead-blasting cabinet to achieve the atmosphere clear of
oxygen.
My exhaust is is just a straight shot-gun style and made from 4130 and I bl
asted it and shot it with VHT annually because of rust. Last year I took it
to our local powder coater and he did some kind of jet coating for me and
it seems to be holding up well so far.
Larry
_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: It works the way you want. Learn more.
http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:
WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen2:102009
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Welding exhaust systems |
Guys,
'Twas I who mentioned that an oxyacetylene torch SHOULD NEVER BE USED to weld or
attempt to weld Titanium. Like a magnesium fire, a Titanium fire is extremely
difficult to put out, with the added problem, that, when doused with water,
it will strip Oxygen from the water, resulting in a Hydrogen fire/explosion.
>From Wikipedia (citations removed):
In terms of fabrication, all welding of titanium must be done in an inert atmosphere
of argon or helium in order to shield it from contamination with atmospheric
gases such as oxygen, nitrogen, or hydrogen.
And:
As a powder or in the form of metal shavings, titanium metal poses a significant
fire hazard and, when heated in air, an explosion hazard. Water and carbon dioxide-based
methods to extinguish fires are ineffective on burning titanium;
Class D dry powder fire fighting agents must be used instead.
When used in the production or handling of chlorine, care must be taken to use
titanium only in locations where it will not be exposed to dry chlorine gas which
can result in a titanium/chlorine fire. A fire hazard exists even when titanium
is used in wet chlorine due to possible unexpected drying brought about
by extreme weather conditions.
Titanium can catch fire when a fresh, non-oxidized surface comes in contact with
liquid oxygen. Such surfaces can appear when the oxidized surface is struck
with a hard object, or when a mechanical strain causes the emergence of a crack.
This poses the possible limitation for its use in liquid oxygen systems, such
as those found in the aerospace industry.
Additional info may be found here:
http://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/JOM/0005/Poulsen-0005.html
Bottom line: don't mess with Titanium at home, unless you're properly equipped.
--------
Tom Kreiner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270139#270139
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Welding exhaust systems |
Okay, that settles it for me.
No Titanium (welded or otherwise) in my Piet.
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270144#270144
Message 11
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| Subject: | For Sale Acer Tempo DX900 =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=94?=-$190 ,Apple |
iPhone 3GS 32GB $2
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Email: bauertra@upjs.com
Name: Michael Beckwith
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270147#270147
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: For Sale Acer Tempo DX900 =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=94?=-$190 |
,Apple iPhone 3GS 32GB $2
Hey Michael... I say you take all your garbage and test the yield strength.
Report back to us with your findings. Err, on the other hand, nevermind.
--------
Mark - working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270150#270150
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Split Gear Tubing Size-Fuselage Height |
Jack,
When I ordered my tubing for the V's I somehow ordered .095" tubing. I didn't
bother to send it back and went ahead and made them up. So mine are actually
.095" wall thickness. The correct tubing size would have been the .080". I suppose
I added an extra pound or so, oh well. The other fittings I think I converted
to the .080". When I would see 13 ga. in the plans I used .090" thickness.
Definitely stagger those mounting tabs for the diagonal shock struts as
far as you can. Mine are close but only touch each other when they extend to
the end of their travel. As far as the length, or height of the V's, I made
them just as they are on the plans. Although I got a little nervous about the
position of the axle fore and aft when using brakes. Mr. Pietenpol made one
with the axle 4" inches forward. He said that was maybe too much and to place
it about 2" forward if using brakes. I use brakes and moved the axle 1" forward.
The height is still the same. I didn't want to get too far from the plans
and I didn't plan to use the brakes for more than slow taxi. Anyway, it seems
to have worked out well. I'm sure leaving it back an inch would be about
the same. With my tall wheels I'm definitely kinda high in the 3-point. But
then I have long legs! Mr. Pietenpol built an AirCamper, number 12988, that had
the same configuration as mine. Split axle with the wire wheels. I liked
the look of it, so that's what I was striving for. I have put the gear through
a fair amount of abuse! (Might have even been a ground loop in there, sshhhh...)
It's really a stout little airplane!
For those that aren't very familiar with the tubing style of gear, here are a few
shots;
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_144.JPG
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_147.JPG
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_095.JPG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270158#270158
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Split Gear Tubing Size-Fuselage Height |
Don,
Thanks for the great pictures and comments! Your comments and others on the
shock struts were a good call. I'm doing spring shocks and wondering if the
springs will touch even though I stagger the mounts as much as possible?
Jack
DSM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Split Gear Tubing Size-Fuselage Height
Jack,
When I ordered my tubing for the V's I somehow ordered .095" tubing. I
didn't bother to send it back and went ahead and made them up. So mine are
actually .095" wall thickness. The correct tubing size would have been the
.080". I suppose I added an extra pound or so, oh well. The other fittings
I think I converted to the .080". When I would see 13 ga. in the plans I
used .090" thickness. Definitely stagger those mounting tabs for the
diagonal shock struts as far as you can. Mine are close but only touch each
other when they extend to the end of their travel. As far as the length, or
height of the V's, I made them just as they are on the plans. Although I
got a little nervous about the position of the axle fore and aft when using
brakes. Mr. Pietenpol made one with the axle 4" inches forward. He said
that was maybe too much and to place it about 2" forward if using brakes. I
use brakes and moved the axle 1" forward. The height is still the same. I
didn't want t!
o get too far from the plans and I didn't plan to use the brakes for more
than slow taxi. Anyway, it seems to have worked out well. I'm sure leaving
it back an inch would be about the same. With my tall wheels I'm definitely
kinda high in the 3-point. But then I have long legs! Mr. Pietenpol built
an AirCamper, number 12988, that had the same configuration as mine. Split
axle with the wire wheels. I liked the look of it, so that's what I was
striving for. I have put the gear through a fair amount of abuse! (Might
have even been a ground loop in there, sshhhh...) It's really a stout
little airplane!
For those that aren't very familiar with the tubing style of gear, here are
a few shots;
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_144.JPG
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_147.JPG
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_095.JPG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270158#270158
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
19:57:00
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Split Gear Tubing Size-Fuselage Height |
Thanks Don - I'm strongly considering the tube gear with wheels like yours
(covered). Could you help with how you did the covered wheels? I was orig
inally thinking aluminum covers but had seen someone suggest putting the fa
bric all the way down to where the bead of the tire contacts (inside the ri
m). Is this how you did it?
Thanks=2C
Tom B.
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Split Gear Tubing Size-Fuselage Height
> From: EmchAir@aol.com
> Date: Fri=2C 30 Oct 2009 13:47:11 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Jack=2C
> When I ordered my tubing for the V's I somehow ordered .095" tubing. I d
idn't bother to send it back and went ahead and made them up. So mine are
actually .095" wall thickness. The correct tubing size would have been the
.080". I suppose I added an extra pound or so=2C oh well. The other fitt
ings I think I converted to the .080". When I would see 13 ga. in the plan
s I used .090" thickness. Definitely stagger those mounting tabs for the d
iagonal shock struts as far as you can. Mine are close but only touch each
other when they extend to the end of their travel. As far as the length
=2C or height of the V's=2C I made them just as they are on the plans. Alt
hough I got a little nervous about the position of the axle fore and aft wh
en using brakes. Mr. Pietenpol made one with the axle 4" inches forward.
He said that was maybe too much and to place it about 2" forward if using b
rakes. I use brakes and moved the axle 1" forward. The height is still th
e same. I didn't want t!
> o get too far from the plans and I didn't plan to use the brakes for mor
e than slow taxi. Anyway=2C it seems to have worked out well. I'm sure le
aving it back an inch would be about the same. With my tall wheels I'm def
initely kinda high in the 3-point. But then I have long legs! Mr. Pietenp
ol built an AirCamper=2C number 12988=2C that had the same configuration as
mine. Split axle with the wire wheels. I liked the look of it=2C so that
's what I was striving for. I have put the gear through a fair amount of a
buse! (Might have even been a ground loop in there=2C sshhhh...) It's r
eally a stout little airplane!
>
> For those that aren't very familiar with the tubing style of gear=2C here
are a few shots=3B
>
> http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_144.JPG
>
> http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_147.JPG
>
> http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_095.JPG
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270158#270158
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Welding exhaust systems |
Yep=2C none for me. Been thinkin about it for the tail spring though....
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding exhaust systems
> From: billspiet@sympatico.ca
> Date: Fri=2C 30 Oct 2009 11:17:31 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>
ca>
>
> Okay=2C that settles it for me.
> No Titanium (welded or otherwise) in my Piet.
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270144#270144
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: It works the way you want. Learn more.
http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:
WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen2:102009
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Welding exhaust systems |
Don't forget to clean up your grinder when grinding aluminum and switching
to steel. Aluminum and steel filings alowed to sit together can ignite an
d cause a flash fire of several thousand F
BTW- You also said that Ti ignites a burns at about 2=2C200F. Not true. I
t's melting point is above steel. But you are correct in that it cannot be
torch welded. Reacts severely in the presence of oxygen.
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding exhaust systems
> From: tkreiner@gmail.com
> Date: Fri=2C 30 Oct 2009 11:09:47 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Guys=2C
>
> 'Twas I who mentioned that an oxyacetylene torch SHOULD NEVER BE USED to
weld or attempt to weld Titanium. Like a magnesium fire=2C a Titanium fire
is extremely difficult to put out=2C with the added problem=2C that=2C when
doused with water=2C it will strip Oxygen from the water=2C resulting in a
Hydrogen fire/explosion.
>
> >From Wikipedia (citations removed):
>
> In terms of fabrication=2C all welding of titanium must be done in an ine
rt atmosphere of argon or helium in order to shield it from contamination w
ith atmospheric gases such as oxygen=2C nitrogen=2C or hydrogen.
>
> And:
>
> As a powder or in the form of metal shavings=2C titanium metal poses a si
gnificant fire hazard and=2C when heated in air=2C an explosion hazard. Wat
er and carbon dioxide-based methods to extinguish fires are ineffective on
burning titanium=3B Class D dry powder fire fighting agents must be used in
stead.
>
> When used in the production or handling of chlorine=2C care must be taken
to use titanium only in locations where it will not be exposed to dry chlo
rine gas which can result in a titanium/chlorine fire. A fire hazard exists
even when titanium is used in wet chlorine due to possible unexpected dryi
ng brought about by extreme weather conditions.
>
> Titanium can catch fire when a fresh=2C non-oxidized surface comes in con
tact with liquid oxygen. Such surfaces can appear when the oxidized surface
is struck with a hard object=2C or when a mechanical strain causes the eme
rgence of a crack. This poses the possible limitation for its use in liquid
oxygen systems=2C such as those found in the aerospace industry.
>
> Additional info may be found here:
>
> http://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/JOM/0005/Poulsen-0005.html
>
> Bottom line: don't mess with Titanium at home=2C unless you're properly e
quipped.
>
> --------
> Tom Kreiner
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270139#270139
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
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>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: I wanted more reliable=2C now it's more reliable. Wow!
http://microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/default-ga.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=PI
D24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:102009
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Welding exhaust systems |
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my George
Washington's, but I want to start gluing rib sticks together and get my ribs
started.
So, I went to the local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in Fresno,
and I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95 for the 4 ounce
sized bottles. I know there are other acceptable glues out there that have
the test of time behind them, and I read about them in Tony B's book, but I
am looking for what advice you all might have regard alternative glues I
might try at least for a few ribs.
I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the
un-employed. BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up is not
that expensive. So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy alternatives
that you might have used that would be acceptable for ribs. I want epoxy in
the really stessful places, and the fuse, etc,... but the rib sticks with
the gussets should be OK with older, tried and proven glues.
Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few Piet
Brains for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin glue there for
about $9 bucks and thought I might go with it to start....
Thoughts?
Mark
Message 20
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| Subject: | Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
Resorcinol
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Roberts
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 9:53 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my George
Washington's, but I want to start gluing rib sticks together and get my ribs
started.
So, I went to the local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in Fresno,
and I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95 for the 4 ounce
sized bottles. I know there are other acceptable glues out there that have
the test of time behind them, and I read about them in Tony B's book, but I
am looking for what advice you all might have regard alternative glues I
might try at least for a few ribs.
I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the
un-employed. BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up is not
that expensive. So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy alternatives
that you might have used that would be acceptable for ribs. I want epoxy in
the really stessful places, and the fuse, etc,... but the rib sticks with
the gussets should be OK with older, tried and proven glues.
Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few Piet
Brains for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin glue there for
about $9 bucks and thought I might go with it to start....
Thoughts?
Mark
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
Mark,
Corky started this project with T-88, but I have been finishing it with West Marine
epoxy. Look it up on Wicks or Aircraft Spruce. The local West Marine outlet
(in Austin, TX) sold me my second set of stuff for about $40. It was a pint
of epoxy and 1/5 that much of hardener (catalyst). The ratio is 5:1. Local
sales tax will be similar to freight, I guess, but the advantage of local purchase
is its immediacy. One set will easily finish your ribs.
I haven't been following your posts, so I am likely telling what you already know,
but here goes: Don't take shortcuts and measure carefully. I have used medical
syringes for precise mixes and all has gone very well. Be sure to rough
up your gussets before you start gluing them, and don't clamp anything so tightly
you squeeze out most of the glue. As discussed otherwise on this site,
weights, clamps, nails or staples will hold the assembly together while it sets
up. Plan on setting up one rib tomorrow, then gluint and clamping the gussets
on the back side of it the next day, while you set up the next rib in your
jig. In a month you are done.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Roberts
Sent: Oct 30, 2009 8:52 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my George Washington's,
but I want to start gluing rib sticks together and get my ribs started.
So, I went to the local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in Fresno, and
I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95 for the 4 ounce sized
bottles. I know there are other acceptable glues out there that have the test
of time behind them, and I read about them in Tony B's book, but I am looking
for what advice you all might have regard alternative glues I might try at least
for a few ribs.
I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the un-employed.
BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up is not that expensive.
So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy alternatives that you might have
used that would be acceptable for ribs. I want epoxy in the really stessful places,
and the fuse, etc,... but the rib sticks with the gussets should be OK
with older, tried and proven glues.
Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few Piet Brains
for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin glue there for about $9
bucks and thought I might go with it to start....
Thoughts?
Mark
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
Buying in a larger quantity will of course cost less per oz. I think I
paid around $16 for that size at my local Woodcraft - the largest size
they carry in the store. That'll get through about half the ribs.
Talking to John Racine when he was out here, he's using West Systems
epoxy and is happy with it. John, what's West System cost compared to
T-88? Either of those should be available at local woodworking shops
or marine shops. Beyond those I'd carefully consider what Tony B. has
to say on the subject.
I'm very happy with T-88. Around $20 gives me a couple months of
building on my ribs. How many movie rentals or cups of latte would
that be?
My thoughts.
--Ken
On Oct 30, 2009, at 6:52 PM, Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my
> George Washington's, but I want to start gluing rib sticks together
> and get my ribs started.
>
> So, I went to the local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in
> Fresno, and I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95
> for the 4 ounce sized bottles. I know there are other acceptable
> glues out there that have the test of time behind them, and I read
> about them in Tony B's book, but I am looking for what advice you
> all might have regard alternative glues I might try at least for a
> few ribs.
>
> I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the un-
> employed. BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up
> is not that expensive. So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy
> alternatives that you might have used that would be acceptable for
> ribs. I want epoxy in the really stessful places, and the fuse,
> etc,... but the rib sticks with the gussets should be OK with older,
> tried and proven glues.
>
> Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few
> Piet Brains for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin
> glue there for about $9 bucks and thought I might go with it to
> start....
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Mark
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
West marine epoxy.... Hummmm... We have a west marine here and I have
used their 105 and 205 for fiberglass work, and even have some of that
in the shop already. However, I am not sure if it that is the dame as
you are refering to. It's the slow cure stuff, but rather thin. I have
the mixing ratio pimp that meters it out of the cans...
Is this the west marine epoxy you mention? I am fearful of using 'the
wrong glues' and wasting wood and effort...
Thank you!
Mark
On Friday, October 30, 2009, Tim Willis <timothywillis@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>
> Mark,
>
> Corky started this project with T-88, but I have been finishing it with West
Marine epoxy. Look it up on Wicks or Aircraft Spruce. The local West Marine outlet
(in Austin, TX) sold me my second set of stuff for about $40. It was a pint
of epoxy and 1/5 that much of hardener (catalyst). The ratio is 5:1. Local
sales tax will be similar to freight, I guess, but the advantage of local purchase
is its immediacy. One set will easily finish your ribs.
>
> I haven't been following your posts, so I am likely telling what you already
know, but here goes: Don't take shortcuts and measure carefully. I have used medical
syringes for precise mixes and all has gone very well. Be sure to rough
up your gussets before you start gluing them, and don't clamp anything so tightly
you squeeze out most of the glue. As discussed otherwise on this site, weights,
clamps, nails or staples will hold the assembly together while it sets
up. Plan on setting up one rib tomorrow, then gluint and clamping the gussets
on the back side of it the next day, while you set up the next rib in your jig.
In a month you are done.
>
> Tim in central TX
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Roberts
> Sent: Oct 30, 2009 8:52 PM
> To: pietenpol-list
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
>
> Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my George Washington's,
but I want to start gluing rib sticks together and get my ribs started.
>
> So, I went to the local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in Fresno,
and I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95 for the 4 ounce sized
bottles. I know there are other acceptable glues out there that have the test
of time behind them, and I read about them in Tony B's book, but I am looking
for what advice you all might have regard alternative glues I might try at
least for a few ribs.
>
> I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the un-employed.
BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up is not that expensive.
So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy alternatives that you might have
used that would be acceptable for ribs. I want epoxy in the really stessful
places, and the fuse, etc,... but the rib sticks with the gussets should be OK
with older, tried and proven glues.
>
> Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few Piet Brains
for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin glue there for about
$9 bucks and thought I might go with it to start....
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Mark
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
I have used both West epoxy and T-88 for gluing wood. Both seem
adequate.
T-88 is slightly thicker, so be careful just how much you apply. It's
easy to make the film too thick. I measure it out by squeezing equal
amounts into a shallow plastic dish, actually a microwave dinner plate.
I'll measure out, for example, seven passes of each part. Oh, a hint -
buy the T-88 in the quart size. It's cheaper that way and lasts well.
West's handy pumps fail after some time, and in any case deliver a
rather large measure with each press of the pump handle. Skip them
unless you are making something out of fiberglass or composite. I have
found that a digital kitchen scale that reads in grams, a plastic
cottage cheese container, a calculator and a tongue depressor or
popsicle stick work better. Measure the epoxy using the gram scale, it's
easier - it's just a number, after all, then calculate how much hardener
you need and add that. Mix and apply with the sticks. Buy a box of the
sticks. If you use a cheap brush for the application, the brush will
absorb a lot of epoxy, wasting it and you'll have to throw it away when
it cures. Sometimes it's handy to cut the round end of the sticks off.
If there's any epoxy left in the tub. let it cure. You can mix the next
batch right on top of it, it's inert.
If you need to thicken either of these, mix in some Cab-O-Sil. That
stuff is a nasty light powder; wear a dust mask. I don't know of a
reliable thinning agent.
Personally, I prefer the West epoxy for laminating and coating, and the
T-88 for bonding.
The hand cleaner of choice is the cheapest generic vinegar you can get.
Sounds weird, but that stuff cuts wet epoxy immediately. Doesn't seem to
touch cured epoxy. I keep a bottle by the sink, and follow it with soap
and water.
Incidentally, get a box of plastic disposable gloves. Epoxy allergies
can be serious, and can be very difficult to get rid of, persisting even
after the epoxy is long gone. Usually the gloves can be reused half a
dozen times. I have heard that 1:1 epoxies are less allergenic than the
others, but personally have had no problem with either of these. In the
past I did have a reaction to certain other epoxies, but those are now
long off the market.
Clear plastic packaging tape, kitchen plastic wrap, plastic drop cloths,
wax paper, things like that, don't stick to the epoxies. I have used the
tape to hold parts together while curing; it's best to fold a bit of
tape under itself to make a place to grab it. Otherwise the epoxy might
physically prevent you being able to find a corner to start pulling it
off. I routinely use a piece of wax paper to protect the kitchen scale.
Plastic Resin was once considered a good glue for wooden aircraft. It
was subsequently learned that repeated moisture cycles weakened it, and
it is no longer recommended for that reason.
Sorry to suggest all those expensive tools, the scale, etc. You can work
around them, but it's worth having them. Seriously. You can usually save
a few cents by cutting the tongue depressors in half lengthwise, anyway.
David Paule
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Roberts
To: pietenpol-list
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 7:52 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my George
Washington's, but I want to start gluing rib sticks together and get my
ribs started.
So, I went to the local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in
Fresno, and I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95 for
the 4 ounce sized bottles. I know there are other acceptable glues out
there that have the test of time behind them, and I read about them in
Tony B's book, but I am looking for what advice you all might have
regard alternative glues I might try at least for a few ribs.
I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the
un-employed. BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up is
not that expensive. So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy
alternatives that you might have used that would be acceptable for ribs.
I want epoxy in the really stessful places, and the fuse, etc,... but
the rib sticks with the gussets should be OK with older, tried and
proven glues.
Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few
Piet Brains for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin glue
there for about $9 bucks and thought I might go with it to start....
Thoughts?
Mark
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
Yep, that's the stuff.
David Paule
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Roberts" <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
West marine epoxy.... Hummmm... We have a west marine here and I have
used their 105 and 205 for fiberglass work, and even have some of that
in the shop already. However, I am not sure if it that is the dame as
you are refering to. It's the slow cure stuff, but rather thin. I have
the mixing ratio pimp that meters it out of the cans...
Is this the west marine epoxy you mention? I am fearful of using 'the
wrong glues' and wasting wood and effort...
Thank you!
Mark
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
As a side note... For all things boating, including West System products,
boatfix.com is usually way cheaper than West Marine.
You might also find that Rockler or WoodCraft are good sources for T-88 or
West Products (I haven't checked). I'm on Rockler's spam list (to be fair,
I signed up so it's not really spam) and occasionally get %-off coupons in
my inbox.
On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 8:52 PM, Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my George
> Washington's, but I want to start gluing rib sticks together and get my ribs
> started.
>
> So, I went to the local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in
> Fresno, and I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95 for the 4
> ounce sized bottles. I know there are other acceptable glues out there that
> have the test of time behind them, and I read about them in Tony B's book,
> but I am looking for what advice you all might have regard alternative glues
> I might try at least for a few ribs.
>
> I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the
> un-employed. BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up is not
> that expensive. So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy alternatives
> that you might have used that would be acceptable for ribs. I want epoxy in
> the really stessful places, and the fuse, etc,... but the rib sticks with
> the gussets should be OK with older, tried and proven glues.
>
> Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few Piet
> Brains for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin glue there for
> about $9 bucks and thought I might go with it to start....
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Mark
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
Mark,
Really? $12? T-88 is good stuff, and is the go-to epoxy alternative to
resorcinol for wood aircraft building. You would try to substitute some
other kind of epoxy over $12? (the price difference between it and the
plastic resin glue you were looking at).
As Ken said, skip the movie rental, skip the Starbucks, skip McD's for a few
visits.....if you really want to build an airplane, and do it right, then
find the savings in other discretionary expenditures. I seem to recall a
post in August about you viewing Brodhead pics over your IPhone connection:
for what that costs you could have more T-88 than you know what to do with.
I understand building on a budget....we are too. You have my sympathies
regarding being laid off; I hope the situation improves for you and your
family. And I can sympathize with wanting so bad to build that darned
Pietenpol, but having so many obstacles in your way. Just don't skimp....you
want to fly your wife, your kids, and yourself for many happy hours in this
airplane. After having spent thousands of dollars to complete your Piet,
what are you going to think of looking back at not using the best materials
because you didn't want to spend the extra $12?
Good luck, and I hope you can start soon (the right way). Enjoy your
weekend,
Ryan
On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 8:52 PM, Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my George
> Washington's, but I want to start gluing rib sticks together and get my ribs
> started.
>
> So, I went to the local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in
> Fresno, and I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95 for the 4
> ounce sized bottles. I know there are other acceptable glues out there that
> have the test of time behind them, and I read about them in Tony B's book,
> but I am looking for what advice you all might have regard alternative glues
> I might try at least for a few ribs.
>
> I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the
> un-employed. BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up is not
> that expensive. So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy alternatives
> that you might have used that would be acceptable for ribs. I want epoxy in
> the really stessful places, and the fuse, etc,... but the rib sticks with
> the gussets should be OK with older, tried and proven glues.
>
> Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few Piet
> Brains for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin glue there for
> about $9 bucks and thought I might go with it to start....
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Mark
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
The cats are stowed in the house and garage, and the alarm is on. I will check
in the AM and reply.
I think I am using 105, and it does set slowly, giving you time to work it. I
leave it clamped up for at least 12 hours, usually overnight, and give it not
even a light stress test for 24 hours. It has a pot life of 30-45 minutes usually,
depending on temperatures. You can thicken it with microballoons to make
it less runny and/or better fill cavities. the pot life is less with the balloons,
IMO.
It is the same stuff you use on fiberglass layups. My batches are small, but when
I get to the big stuff I may use the pumps.... certainly for fiberglass apps.
More tomorrow.
BTW, Resorcinol, which Jack Phillips uses, is the very best, and the only one that
will hold up when not just soaked in water, but BOILED. It is the one you
HAVE to use for composite wooden propellers, because of heat buildup-- friction
with air, and maybe other energy transfers.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
>Sent: Oct 30, 2009 9:31 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
>
>
>West marine epoxy.... Hummmm... We have a west marine here and I have
>used their 105 and 205 for fiberglass work, and even have some of that
>in the shop already. However, I am not sure if it that is the dame as
>you are refering to. It's the slow cure stuff, but rather thin. I have
>the mixing ratio pimp that meters it out of the cans...
>
>Is this the west marine epoxy you mention? I am fearful of using 'the
>wrong glues' and wasting wood and effort...
>
>Thank you!
>
>Mark
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
Good info All.
I do agree that the difference of $12 is a very small price to pay in terms
of longevity. I was thinking that the size of the bottles made the $21.95
seem very high compared to the stiff when bought from ACS (minus the tax and
shipping).
Anyway, I have ONLY thought about the T-88 so far, and not really considered
alternatives, so that was really where the question was coming from.
As it is, if West Systems Epoxy will work, and if I am not losing any real
strength if I mix in a little Cab-O-Sil to thicken it up a tad, then that is
already in my garage and waiting to be used. I have both the Quick set and
the Slow set hardeners, and PLENTY of resin (used to use all of this for
molding Model Airplanes and sailplane molds). West Systems was the only
stuff I'd use for them, and I know it to be good stuff.
I also have a buddy of mine with some resorcinol unopened that I could use.
He hasn't for many years!
Thanks for all the advice. I do appreciate it.
The journey of a thousand rib sticks begins with one batch of epoxy...
Mark
On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 7:57 PM, Tim Willis <timothywillis@earthlink.net>wrote:
> timothywillis@earthlink.net>
>
> The cats are stowed in the house and garage, and the alarm is on. I will
> check in the AM and reply.
>
> I think I am using 105, and it does set slowly, giving you time to work it.
> I leave it clamped up for at least 12 hours, usually overnight, and give it
> not even a light stress test for 24 hours. It has a pot life of 30-45
> minutes usually, depending on temperatures. You can thicken it with
> microballoons to make it less runny and/or better fill cavities. the pot
> life is less with the balloons, IMO.
>
> It is the same stuff you use on fiberglass layups. My batches are small,
> but when I get to the big stuff I may use the pumps.... certainly for
> fiberglass apps.
>
> More tomorrow.
>
> BTW, Resorcinol, which Jack Phillips uses, is the very best, and the only
> one that will hold up when not just soaked in water, but BOILED. It is the
> one you HAVE to use for composite wooden propellers, because of heat
> buildup-- friction with air, and maybe other energy transfers.
>
> Tim in central TX
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
> >Sent: Oct 30, 2009 9:31 PM
> >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
> >
> >
> >
> >West marine epoxy.... Hummmm... We have a west marine here and I have
> >used their 105 and 205 for fiberglass work, and even have some of that
> >in the shop already. However, I am not sure if it that is the dame as
> >you are refering to. It's the slow cure stuff, but rather thin. I have
> >the mixing ratio pimp that meters it out of the cans...
> >
> >Is this the west marine epoxy you mention? I am fearful of using 'the
> >wrong glues' and wasting wood and effort...
> >
> >Thank you!
> >
> >Mark
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
If you call the folks at West they can counsel you on the use of thickeners
- they are terrific and really know their stuff. They walked me through a
pretty substantial structural sailboat repair that's performed flawlessly
for almost 10 years.
I imagine the West resin is as good as any and better than most. We all
know it'll form a bond stronger than the wood itself, so the big questions
are how it holds up to moisture and UV exposure. It's use in boats answers
the first question and inside a covered wing the second is moot.
As an aside, I asked a West tech rep why they weren't as visible in the
aircraft space as they are in marine. He said it was marketing: the folks
at System Three (T-88) marketed their stuff to builders while West was busy
doing the same thing in the marine market. He said that in some ways (I
don't remember how - it was technical - it might have had something to do
with vibration) he considers the West product superior to T-88. Of course
he's paid to say that but seriously, as straightforward as they've always
been with me I'd be floored if they gave bad advice in a life-or-death
scenario.
Unless someone informed me of something I don't know, I wouldn't hesitate to
use West products instead of T-88.
On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 11:02 PM, Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>wrote:
> Good info All.
>
> I do agree that the difference of $12 is a very small price to pay in terms
> of longevity. I was thinking that the size of the bottles made the $21.95
> seem very high compared to the stiff when bought from ACS (minus the tax and
> shipping).
>
> Anyway, I have ONLY thought about the T-88 so far, and not really
> considered alternatives, so that was really where the question was coming
> from.
>
> As it is, if West Systems Epoxy will work, and if I am not losing any real
> strength if I mix in a little Cab-O-Sil to thicken it up a tad, then that is
> already in my garage and waiting to be used. I have both the Quick set and
> the Slow set hardeners, and PLENTY of resin (used to use all of this for
> molding Model Airplanes and sailplane molds). West Systems was the only
> stuff I'd use for them, and I know it to be good stuff.
>
> I also have a buddy of mine with some resorcinol unopened that I could use.
> He hasn't for many years!
>
> Thanks for all the advice. I do appreciate it.
>
> The journey of a thousand rib sticks begins with one batch of epoxy...
>
> Mark
>
> On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 7:57 PM, Tim Willis <timothywillis@earthlink.net>wrote:
>
>> timothywillis@earthlink.net>
>>
>> The cats are stowed in the house and garage, and the alarm is on. I will
>> check in the AM and reply.
>>
>> I think I am using 105, and it does set slowly, giving you time to work
>> it. I leave it clamped up for at least 12 hours, usually overnight, and
>> give it not even a light stress test for 24 hours. It has a pot life of
>> 30-45 minutes usually, depending on temperatures. You can thicken it with
>> microballoons to make it less runny and/or better fill cavities. the pot
>> life is less with the balloons, IMO.
>>
>> It is the same stuff you use on fiberglass layups. My batches are small,
>> but when I get to the big stuff I may use the pumps.... certainly for
>> fiberglass apps.
>>
>> More tomorrow.
>>
>> BTW, Resorcinol, which Jack Phillips uses, is the very best, and the only
>> one that will hold up when not just soaked in water, but BOILED. It is the
>> one you HAVE to use for composite wooden propellers, because of heat
>> buildup-- friction with air, and maybe other energy transfers.
>>
>> Tim in central TX
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
>> >Sent: Oct 30, 2009 9:31 PM
>> >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>> >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
>> >
>> mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
>> >
>> >West marine epoxy.... Hummmm... We have a west marine here and I have
>> >used their 105 and 205 for fiberglass work, and even have some of that
>> >in the shop already. However, I am not sure if it that is the dame as
>> >you are refering to. It's the slow cure stuff, but rather thin. I have
>> >the mixing ratio pimp that meters it out of the cans...
>> >
>> >Is this the west marine epoxy you mention? I am fearful of using 'the
>> >wrong glues' and wasting wood and effort...
>> >
>> >Thank you!
>> >
>> >Mark
>>
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Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...hello |
Im jorge from hanford and trate to con firm if you resive- my mail I sed
if not these is my piet pictured I like now were you build too and what par
t of fresno you live my friend live in siera sky park in herdon in eaa chap
ter 376 ronofs seyou nex
--- On Fri, 10/30/09, Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my George Wash
ington's, but I want to start gluing rib sticks together and get my ribs st
arted.
So, I went to the local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in Fresno
, and I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95 for the 4 ounc
e sized bottles. I know there are other acceptable glues out there that hav
e the test of time behind them, and I read about them in Tony B's book, but
I am looking for what advice you all might have regard alternative glues I
might try at least for a few ribs.
=0A
I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the un-employ
ed. BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up is not that ex
pensive. So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy alternatives that you
might have used that would be acceptable for ribs. I want epoxy in the real
ly stessful places, and the fuse, etc,... but the rib sticks with the gusse
ts should be OK with older, tried and proven glues.
=0A
Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few Piet B
rains for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin glue there for
about $9 bucks and thought I might go with it to start....
=0A
Thoughts?
Mark
=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A
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