Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:49 AM - Wire wheel covering (Don Emch)
2. 07:55 AM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (David Paule)
3. 09:49 AM - Gear strut clearance (Jack)
4. 09:53 AM - 106 years ago today- Prelude to flight (helspersew@aol.com)
5. 10:13 AM - West System epoxy (tbyh@aol.com)
6. 10:44 AM - Re: West System epoxy (Mark Roberts)
7. 10:57 AM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Mark Roberts)
8. 11:04 AM - Re: Wire wheel covering (TOM MICHELLE BRANT)
9. 12:54 PM - Re: Wire wheel covering (bryan green)
10. 01:04 PM - Re: Wire wheel covering (Don Emch)
11. 01:24 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Tim Willis)
12. 03:02 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Robert Ray)
13. 03:02 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...hello (Robert Ray)
14. 04:48 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...hello (Mark Roberts)
15. 06:57 PM - First Taxi! (Ben Charvet)
16. 07:23 PM - Re: First Taxi! (Jack)
17. 07:41 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... (Graham Hansen)
18. 08:08 PM - Re: First Taxi! (TOM MICHELLE BRANT)
19. 09:45 PM - Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...hello part 2 (jorge lizarraga)
20. 11:11 PM - NX7229R is on her feet again. (Andrew M Eldredge)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Wire wheel covering |
Tom B.,
Covering the wire wheels really is pretty simple. I made an aluminum disc out
of some scrap that I had laying around. Probably about 3 1/2" to 4" in diameter
and around .100" thick. I cut a hole in the center that would fit over the
hub and actually just rest up against the spokes. I cut a piece of fabric that
was a few inches larger diameter than my rim and cut a hole in the center.
I glued the aluminum ring to the fabric and placed it over the hub against the
spokes then just wrapped and glued the fabric around the inside of the rim where
the bead of the tire contacts the rim. Really pretty simple. The only bad
thing is trying to muscle that tire over the fabric without messing it up.
After a failed attempt I decided to leave the tire on the rim and clamp it tight
and squezze it to itself so I could get to the inside of the rim. I haven't
changed tires yet. When I do I was thinking I would just change the covering
too. However someone at Brodhead told me a lot of custom motorcycle shops
have a tire mounting machine that actually doesn't touch the rim. Needed for
all of the custom rims on choppers out there. Might give that a try. Nice thing
about motorcycle tires is they usually have more natural rubber in them so
they don't rot out as fast as maybe a car tire might. Those tires are 15 years
old. They show no signs of checking or cracking yet, probably because they
stay so dry.
Again a couple of shots to see that disc I'm talking;
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_095.JPG
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_094.JPG
Big Thanks to Chris Tracy for that fantastic site!!!!!!
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270222#270222
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
Don't use microballoons for structure!
That stuff is inherently weak. It's useful for working adjacent to foam, and
for places where you want to be able to shape or work the thickened epoxy.
But it's absolutely not safe for structure.
Use Cab-O-Sil instead.
David Paule
>
> I think I am using 105, and it does set slowly, giving you time to work
> it. I leave it clamped up for at least 12 hours, usually overnight, and
> give it not even a light stress test for 24 hours. It has a pot life of
> 30-45 minutes usually, depending on temperatures. You can thicken it with
> microballoons to make it less runny and/or better fill cavities. the pot
> life is less with the balloons, IMO.
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Gear strut clearance |
I plan to stagger the gear strut attach points to allow clearance where they
cross. Also think I will mount the strut springs down low like the attached
picture. Does it seem like this will work?
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
Message 4
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| Subject: | 106 years ago today- Prelude to flight |
>From the diary of Orville Wright:
October 31, 1903
Kitty Hawk, N.C.
Trussed skids under machine and began work on frame for tail. Wind light.
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | West System epoxy |
I've been using the West System epoxy with the pumps...works well. I've ma
de test joints and even before 24 hours of cure time I gave one test joint
-- similar to a fuselage longeron and upright joint with 1" by 1" spruce
and the gussets -- to one of my sons who was into power lifting at the ti
me (500 lbs dead lift, etc -- i.e. "Al, hand me that piano!") and as hard
as he tried he could not break the joint...good enough for me! I use pla
stic 3-lb. coffee container lids for mixing...when the unused epoxy harden
s it snaps right out of the lid and you can reuse the lid. I use the 90 pe
rcent rubbing alcohol to clean my applicator brushes...I 'll grab a handfu
l of cheap 99-cent 1/2 or 1-inch brushes from the local Menards -- which
is like Home Depot, etc...
Yes, use gloves, latex, nitride or whatever, when working with epoxy. Also
, don't breath the dust if sanding excess epoxy from areas adjacent to a
joint, etc....Also if your cans of epoxy get too thick from being a littl
e too cold in your shop you can simply warm it in a pan of warm/hot water.
...all this info is in the West Sytem instructions, I believe...
Fred B.
La Crosse, WI
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: West System epoxy |
Good info! Thanks Fred. I have the West systems already and am glad to have
found out it is usable for this... saves a bit of time and money for me
right now....
Mark
On Sat, Oct 31, 2009 at 10:10 AM, <tbyh@aol.com> wrote:
> I've been using the West System epoxy with the pumps...works well. I've
> made test joints and even before 24 hours of cure time I gave one test joint
> -- similar to a fuselage longeron and upright joint with 1" by 1" spruce and
> the gussets -- to one of my sons who was into power lifting at the time (500
> lbs dead lift, etc -- i.e. "Al, hand me that piano!") and as hard as he
> tried he could not break the joint...good enough for me! I use plastic
> 3-lb. coffee container lids for mixing...when the unused epoxy hardens it
> snaps right out of the lid and you can reuse the lid. I use the 90 percent
> rubbing alcohol to clean my applicator brushes...I 'll grab a handful of
> cheap 99-cent 1/2 or 1-inch brushes from the local Menards -- which is like
> Home Depot, etc...
>
> Yes, use gloves, latex, nitride or whatever, when working with epoxy. Also,
> don't breath the dust if sanding excess epoxy from areas adjacent to a
> joint, etc....Also if your cans of epoxy get too thick from being a little
> too cold in your shop you can simply warm it in a pan of warm/hot
> water....all this info is in the West Sytem instructions, I believe...
>
> Fred B.
> La Crosse, WI
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
Agreed on the Mocroballoons! Cab-O-Sil is the stuff for strength in
thickening epoxy. Microballoons is a nice, easier to sand filler for
shaping, just as you say!
Mark
On Sat, Oct 31, 2009 at 7:26 AM, David Paule <dpaule@frii.com> wrote:
>
> Don't use microballoons for structure!
>
> That stuff is inherently weak. It's useful for working adjacent to foam,
> and for places where you want to be able to shape or work the thickened
> epoxy. But it's absolutely not safe for structure.
>
> Use Cab-O-Sil instead.
>
> David Paule
>
>
>> I think I am using 105, and it does set slowly, giving you time to work
>> it. I leave it clamped up for at least 12 hours, usually overnight, and
>> give it not even a light stress test for 24 hours. It has a pot life of
>> 30-45 minutes usually, depending on temperatures. You can thicken it with
>> microballoons to make it less runny and/or better fill cavities. the pot
>> life is less with the balloons, IMO.
>>
>>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Wire wheel covering |
Don=2C
I replied once but I don't know if it made it through... Anyway - thank yo
u - this is exactly the info I was looking for. I love the look of your co
vered wheels - can't believe the tires are that old.. Just to clarify=2C t
he aluminum disc just rests on the hubs / spokes (as in=2C is not attached
in any way - other than the pull of fabric of course).
Thanks again!
Tom B.
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wire wheel covering
> From: EmchAir@aol.com
> Date: Sat=2C 31 Oct 2009 07:48:26 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Tom B.=2C
>
> Covering the wire wheels really is pretty simple. I made an aluminum dis
c out of some scrap that I had laying around. Probably about 3 1/2" to 4"
in diameter and around .100" thick. I cut a hole in the center that would
fit over the hub and actually just rest up against the spokes. I cut a pie
ce of fabric that was a few inches larger diameter than my rim and cut a ho
le in the center. I glued the aluminum ring to the fabric and placed it ov
er the hub against the spokes then just wrapped and glued the fabric around
the inside of the rim where the bead of the tire contacts the rim. Really
pretty simple. The only bad thing is trying to muscle that tire over the
fabric without messing it up. After a failed attempt I decided to leave th
e tire on the rim and clamp it tight and squezze it to itself so I could ge
t to the inside of the rim. I haven't changed tires yet. When I do I was
thinking I would just change the covering too. However someone at Brodhead
told me a lot o!
> f custom motorcycle shops have a tire mounting machine that actually doe
sn't touch the rim. Needed for all of the custom rims on choppers out ther
e. Might give that a try. Nice thing about motorcycle tires is they usual
ly have more natural rubber in them so they don't rot out as fast as maybe
a car tire might. Those tires are 15 years old. They show no signs of che
cking or cracking yet=2C probably because they stay so dry.
>
> Again a couple of shots to see that disc I'm talking=3B
>
> http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_095.JPG
>
> http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_094.JPG
>
> Big Thanks to Chris Tracy for that fantastic site!!!!!!
> Don Emch
> NX899DE
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270222#270222
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wire wheel covering |
Don what size wheels and tires you got on that puppy and what size axle
do they fit on?
Bryan Green
Elgin SC
----- Original Message -----
From: TOM MICHELLE BRANT
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 2:01 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wire wheel covering
Don,
I replied once but I don't know if it made it through... Anyway -
thank you - this is exactly the info I was looking for. I love the look
of your covered wheels - can't believe the tires are that old.. Just to
clarify, the aluminum disc just rests on the hubs / spokes (as in, is
not attached in any way - other than the pull of fabric of course).
Thanks again!
Tom B.
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wire wheel covering
> From: EmchAir@aol.com
> Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 07:48:26 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Tom B.,
>
> Covering the wire wheels really is pretty simple. I made an aluminum
disc out of some scrap that I had laying around. Probably about 3 1/2"
to 4" in diameter and around .100" thick. I cut a hole in the center
that would fit over the hub and actually just rest up against the
spokes. I cut a piece of fabric that was a few inches larger diameter
than my rim and cut a hole in the center. I glued the aluminum ring to
the fabric and placed it over the hub against the spokes then just
wrapped and glued the fabric around the inside of the rim where the bead
of the tire contacts the rim. Really pretty simple. The only bad thing
is trying to muscle that tire over the fabric without messing it up.
After a failed attempt I decided to leave the tire on the rim and clamp
it tight and squezze it to itself so I could get to the inside of the
rim. I haven't changed tires yet. When I do I was thinking I would just
change the covering too. However someone at Brodhead told me a lot o!
> f custom motorcycle shops have a tire mounting machine that actually
doesn't touch the rim. Needed for all of the custom rims on choppers out
there. Might give that a try. Nice thing about motorcycle tires is they
usually have more natural rubber in them so they don't rot out as fast
as maybe a car tire might. Those tires are 15 years old. They show no
signs of checking or cracking yet, probably because they stay so dry.
>
> Again a couple of shots to see that disc I'm talking;
>
>
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_095.JPG
>
>
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Don%20Emch/Brodhead__20070720_094.JPG
>
> Big Thanks to Chris Tracy for that fantastic site!!!!!!
> Don Emch
> NX899DE
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270222#270222
>
>
>
Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>========================
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wire wheel covering |
Tom,
Yup, just the pull of the fabric when it is tight holds that disc up against the
spokes. The fabric kinda gets a shape that is a little unique. I think it
would be a lot easier than making aluminum covers. By the way, I have a grease
fitting on the hub that greases the axle. I made sure when the rims were laced
to the hub that that fitting was located radially in the same place as the
valve stem. That way when I covered them I could place an inspection ring on
the inside covering so I could get air to the tire and grease to the hub. Just
a thought. I had bad visions of an inspection cover for that ring flying off
hitting the pilot, passenger or part of the plane when the wheel was spinning,
so I never did put one there, just left it open.
Don E.
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270257#270257
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
Thanks for the info on the balloons. No foul yet here; thank God.
-----Original Message-----
>From: David Paule <dpaule@frii.com>
>Sent: Oct 31, 2009 9:26 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
>
>
>Don't use microballoons for structure!
>
>That stuff is inherently weak. It's useful for working adjacent to foam, and
>for places where you want to be able to shape or work the thickened epoxy.
>But it's absolutely not safe for structure.
>
>Use Cab-O-Sil instead.
>
>David Paule
>
>>
>> I think I am using 105, and it does set slowly, giving you time to work
>> it. I leave it clamped up for at least 12 hours, usually overnight, and
>> give it not even a light stress test for 24 hours. It has a pot life of
>> 30-45 minutes usually, depending on temperatures. You can thicken it with
>> microballoons to make it less runny and/or better fill cavities. the pot
>> life is less with the balloons, IMO.
Tim in central TX
>>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
I'm using Raka epoxy, don't know wether it's cheaper or not, I usually order
a gal and a half,
I've used it on other wood working projects, I like the slow cure better it
gives you a lot of time
to work, when it's first mixed it thins out and you can wet out your wood
it's about like olive oil
in vicosity, then after the wood has been wet out for maxium pennetration of
fibers mix silica
into the remaining batch and pack in as much as you can and still leave it
in a peaunut butter
consistincey, doesn't take much clamping as most all epoxy.
I also take a piece of wood such as a gusset and mix the epoxy in a large
tray large
enough to disperse heat build up and to completey submerge the gusset into
the epoxy
while it is of low vicosity, this has two benifits one it pre-wets for
gluing and also it
will completey make that piece of wood impervious to moisture.
Go to raka.com
On Sat, Oct 31, 2009 at 4:16 PM, Tim Willis <timothywillis@earthlink.net>wrote:
> timothywillis@earthlink.net>
>
> Thanks for the info on the balloons. No foul yet here; thank God.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: David Paule <dpaule@frii.com>
> >Sent: Oct 31, 2009 9:26 AM
> >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
> >
> >
> >Don't use microballoons for structure!
> >
> >That stuff is inherently weak. It's useful for working adjacent to foam,
> and
> >for places where you want to be able to shape or work the thickened epoxy.
> >But it's absolutely not safe for structure.
> >
> >Use Cab-O-Sil instead.
> >
> >David Paule
> >
> >>
> >> I think I am using 105, and it does set slowly, giving you time to work
> >> it. I leave it clamped up for at least 12 hours, usually overnight, and
> >> give it not even a light stress test for 24 hours. It has a pot life of
> >> 30-45 minutes usually, depending on temperatures. You can thicken it
> with
> >> microballoons to make it less runny and/or better fill cavities. the
> pot
> >> life is less with the balloons, IMO.
> Tim in central TX
> >>
> >
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...hello |
How cool is that!
Russell
On Sat, Oct 31, 2009 at 12:24 AM, jorge lizarraga <flightwood@yahoo.com>wrote:
> Im jorge from hanford and trate to con firm if you resive my mail I sed
> if not these is my piet pictured I like now were you build too and what part
> of fresno you live my friend live in siera sky park in herdon in eaa chapter
> 376 ronofs seyou nex
>
> --- On *Fri, 10/30/09, Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>* wrote:
>
>
> From: Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
> To: "pietenpol-list" <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Friday, October 30, 2009, 6:52 PM
>
> Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my George
> Washington's, but I want to start gluing rib sticks together and get my ribs
> started.
>
> So, I went to the local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in
> Fresno, and I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95 for the 4
> ounce sized bottles. I know there are other acceptable glues out there that
> have the test of time behind them, and I read about them in Tony B's book,
> but I am looking for what advice you all might have regard alternative glues
> I might try at least for a few ribs.
>
> I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the
> un-employed. BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up is not
> that expensive. So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy alternatives
> that you might have used that would be acceptable for ribs. I want epoxy in
> the really stessful places, and the fuse, etc,... but the rib sticks with
> the gussets should be OK with older, tried and proven glues.
>
> Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few Piet
> Brains for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin glue there for
> about $9 bucks and thought I might go with it to start....
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Mark
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pget="_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics=========
>
> *
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...hello |
Hi Jorge!
Yes, I have followed some of your posts along the way. I was hoping to meet
you one day as my project progresses. I have been to see Mike Groah's piet
project, and yours looks like it needs me to come see it too :o)
I am a member of the EAA chapter 376 as well. I used to live right across
the street from Sierra Skypark and was directly under the downwind leg of
the pattern.
I now live in Clovis, and have just started the wood and glue part of the
project...
On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 9:24 PM, jorge lizarraga <flightwood@yahoo.com>wrote:
> Im jorge from hanford and trate to con firm if you resive my mail I sed if
> not these is my piet pictured I like now were you build too and what part of
> fresno you live my friend live in siera sky park in herdon in eaa chapter
> 376 ronofs seyou nex
>
>
> --- On *Fri, 10/30/09, Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>* wrote:
>
>
> From: Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
> To: "pietenpol-list" <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Friday, October 30, 2009, 6:52 PM
>
> Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my George
> Washington's, but I want to start gluing rib sticks together and get my ribs
> started.
>
> So, I went to the local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in
> Fresno, and I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95 for the 4
> ounce sized bottles. I know there are other acceptable glues out there that
> have the test of time behind them, and I read about them in Tony B's book,
> but I am looking for what advice you all might have regard alternative glues
> I might try at least for a few ribs.
>
> I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the
> un-employed. BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up is not
> that expensive. So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy alternatives
> that you might have used that would be acceptable for ribs. I want epoxy in
> the really stessful places, and the fuse, etc,... but the rib sticks with
> the gussets should be OK with older, tried and proven glues.
>
> Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few Piet
> Brains for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin glue there for
> about $9 bucks and thought I might go with it to start....
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Mark
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pget="_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics=========
>
> *
>
>
Message 15
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Today I finally got everything ready for the first taxi. I ended up
moving my wing back 4 inches to meet weight and balance, and that
required replacing one of the cross cables between the aft cabanes
because to many threads were showing on the turnbuckle. By the time I
had it ready to taxi it was 1:30 and the airport was pretty much
deserted. I've installed a new Vertex hand-held, and since I have
non-sheilded harnesses on my mags I was worried about radio
interference. Well, I chained down the tail, chocked the wheels and
cranked it up. The radio seems to work perfectly with no engine noise
unless you turn the squelch way down. This was only a slow speed taxi,
but I went up and down the grass strip (1800 ft) at a brisk walking
pace, then ran it up and down the paved taxiway. The tailwheel cables
were a little loose, but thats an easy fix.
I sent my airworthiness application in on Monday, so I'm anxious to get
it ready for the inspection. I've been flying a 54 year old Baby Ace
that is showing its age, so to taxi around in a new airplane I built
myself was quite a thrill. Hang in there builders.. ITS WORTH IT
Ben Charvet
Mims, Fl
NX866BC
Message 16
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Great Ben, thanks!
Jack
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 31, 2009, at 8:54 PM, Ben Charvet <bcharvet@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> >
>
> Today I finally got everything ready for the first taxi. I ended up
> moving my wing back 4 inches to meet weight and balance, and that
> required replacing one of the cross cables between the aft cabanes
> because to many threads were showing on the turnbuckle. By the time
> I had it ready to taxi it was 1:30 and the airport was pretty much
> deserted. I've installed a new Vertex hand-held, and since I have
> non-sheilded harnesses on my mags I was worried about radio
> interference. Well, I chained down the tail, chocked the wheels and
> cranked it up. The radio seems to work perfectly with no engine
> noise unless you turn the squelch way down. This was only a slow
> speed taxi, but I went up and down the grass strip (1800 ft) at a
> brisk walking pace, then ran it up and down the paved taxiway. The
> tailwheel cables were a little loose, but thats an easy fix.
>
> I sent my airworthiness application in on Monday, so I'm anxious to
> get it ready for the inspection. I've been flying a 54 year old
> Baby Ace that is showing its age, so to taxi around in a new
> airplane I built myself was quite a thrill. Hang in there
> builders.. ITS WORTH IT
>
> Ben Charvet
> Mims, Fl
> NX866BC
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs... |
Mark,
Your post prompted me to remove the inspection covers under the wing of
my Pietenpol this afternoon and take a look at some of the ribs that
were glued together in 1959 (50 years ago!), using Weldwood plastic
resin. I couldn't find a problem with any of the ribs I was able to
check, whether they were glued with Weldwood plastic resin or Aerolite
(urea formaldehide glue which, I think, was developed for the DH
Mosquito). The wing spars are laminated Douglas Fir I-beams using
Aerolite, and still looked good. Polyurethane varnish (three coats) has
provided good protection for 40 years, but the cadmium plating on nuts,
bolts and turnbuckle ends seems to have disappeared, allowing these
parts to show signs of rust. Curiously, the drag/anti-drag 1/8" carbon
steel cables show no sign of rust and the painted steel fittings are
still in good shape.
The airplane has been flying since 1970 and has been hangared 99% of the
time. The hangars have always been of the open tee-type with no doors,
so air movement is almost always present.Our climate here in central
Alberta, Canada is reasonably dry, as I expect it is in Fresno.
In 1959 the choice of adhesives wasn't as extensive as it is today, but
the best one overall was Weldwood resorcinal. It required controlled
working temperatures which I could not maintain, so I settled on
Aerolite which was less critical in this respect, and used Weldwood
plastic resin in some places. Even then, casein glue, which had been for
many years the standard for wooden aircraft construction, was no longer
in favour and I refused to use it. Like you, I was operating on a tight
budget and didn't have a lot of money to throw around. But I had been
taught in aircraft maintenance school that proper joint fitting,
adequate protection from moisture, provision for drainage and
ventilation are essential. Even casein glue did well when these
requirements were met, so I didn't worry too much about using Weldwood
plastic resin.
Today, there many good adhesives available. If I were to build another
Pietenpol, or any wooden airplane, I would choose T-88. I have used T-88
for re-gluing joints after other glues had failed and find it works well
for this. And I use it for violin repairs and construction in places
where there will never be a need to separate parts. Hide glue
(definitely not recommended for aircraft work) is used in such places.
I'm not sure I would use plastic resin for aircraft anymore because I
have heard it is no longer as good as the stuff Weldwood used to make
and there are better adhesives around, anyway.
Having said all this, perhaps the most important thing is to protect the
wooden parts and glued joints from water, dirt, etc. by using a good
coating (preferably an epoxy type) and provide drainage and ventilation.
Hangaring your airplane is essential---even if it is in a basic tee-type
shelter. If you can afford it, use T-88. With rib construction, a little
will go a long way---provided you don't waste it by mixing too much at a
time. Good luck with your project and I hope you have as much fun with
your Pietenpol as I have had with mine.
Cheers,
Graham Hansen (Pietenpol CF-AUN)
Message 18
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Ben=2C
Congrats on a successful taxi! That's one step closer to the big day - act
ually today was a big day too. Keep us posted. Looking forward to the fir
st flight notification.
Tom B.
> Date: Sat=2C 31 Oct 2009 21:54:38 -0400
> From: bcharvet@bellsouth.net
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: First Taxi!
>
>
>
> Today I finally got everything ready for the first taxi. I ended up
> moving my wing back 4 inches to meet weight and balance=2C and that
> required replacing one of the cross cables between the aft cabanes
> because to many threads were showing on the turnbuckle. By the time I
> had it ready to taxi it was 1:30 and the airport was pretty much
> deserted. I've installed a new Vertex hand-held=2C and since I have
> non-sheilded harnesses on my mags I was worried about radio
> interference. Well=2C I chained down the tail=2C chocked the wheels and
> cranked it up. The radio seems to work perfectly with no engine noise
> unless you turn the squelch way down. This was only a slow speed taxi=2C
> but I went up and down the grass strip (1800 ft) at a brisk walking
> pace=2C then ran it up and down the paved taxiway. The tailwheel cables
> were a little loose=2C but thats an easy fix.
>
> I sent my airworthiness application in on Monday=2C so I'm anxious to get
> it ready for the inspection. I've been flying a 54 year old Baby Ace
> that is showing its age=2C so to taxi around in a new airplane I built
> myself was quite a thrill. Hang in there builders.. ITS WORTH IT
>
> Ben Charvet
> Mims=2C Fl
> NX866BC
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...hello part 2 |
haaa, you now my fater wes- nelson and my mader jeany they have a sesna 1
72 whit american flag in his tail i thin is bery hapy now you again my proy
ect not is a museum pise is far from dad but I want yust a plane for fly sa
fei sen you later more pictured im in hanford 1012 n irwin st, your are rea
ly welcom to my plase look the proyect is best in these time saturdays or s
undays best for you like ,all most all sundays and saturdays travel to sier
ra sky park to wes hause ok seyou nex jorge.
--- On Sat, 10/31/09, Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...hello
Hi Jorge!
Yes, I have followed some of your posts along the way. I was hoping to meet
you one day as my project progresses. I have been to see Mike Groah's piet
project, and yours looks like it needs me to come see it too :o)
=0A
I am a member of the EAA chapter 376 as well. I used to live right across t
he street from Sierra Skypark and was directly under the downwind leg of th
e pattern.
I now live in Clovis, and have just started the wood and glue part of the p
roject...
=0A
On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 9:24 PM, jorge lizarraga <flightwood@yahoo.com> wro
te:
=0A=0AIm jorge from hanford and trate to con firm if you resive- my mail
I sed if not these is my piet pictured I like now were you build too and wh
at part of fresno you live my friend live in siera sky park in herdon in ea
a chapter 376 ronofs seyou nex=0A
--- On Fri, 10/30/09, Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com> wrote:
=0A
From: Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable Glue for Ribs...
=0ADate: Friday, October 30, 2009, 6:52 PM
Well, since the job lay off, I am getting pretty stingy with my George Wash
ington's, but I want to start gluing rib sticks together and get my ribs st
arted.
=0A
So, I went to the=0A local dealer in town which that sells T-88 here in Fre
sno, and I just couldn't justify to my wife spending the $21.95 for the 4 o
unce sized bottles. I know there are other acceptable glues out there that
have the test of time behind them, and I read about them in Tony B's book,
but I am looking for what advice you all might have regard alternative glue
s I might try at least for a few ribs.
=0A=0A
I know building an airplane is a luxury, and probably not for the un-employ
ed. BUT, building a few ribs now that I have the wood cut up is not that ex
pensive. So, I thought I might ask ya'll about epoxy alternatives that you
might have used that would be acceptable for ribs. I want epoxy in the real
ly stessful places, and the fuse, etc,... but the rib sticks with the gusse
ts should be OK with older, tried and proven glues.
=0A=0A
Reading Tony's books gives me a start. I just thought I'd pick a few Piet B
rains for some more advice. I saw a bucket of Plastic Resin glue there for
about $9 bucks and thought I might go with it to start....
=0A=0A
Thoughts?
Mark
=0A=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pget="_blank" href="http://for
ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics=========
=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A
Message 20
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| Subject: | NX7229R is on her feet again. |
Finally got beyond the split axle gear fittings. Major mental victory. The
damage is gone, now it's mainly the list of things to fix/tweak while I
still have it apart..
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=7270&id=1745329744&l=e8fda70973
--
Andrew M. Eldredge
Sahuarita, AZ
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