Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:02 AM - Re: removing contact cement (Doug Dever)
2. 08:55 AM - Covering question - drain grommets (Rick Holland)
3. 09:13 AM - Re: Covering question - drain grommets (Don Emch)
4. 10:35 AM - Re: Covering question - drain grommets (helspersew@aol.com)
5. 10:59 AM - Re: Covering question - drain grommets (Rick Holland)
6. 12:09 PM - Center section question (Ken Chambers)
7. 12:34 PM - Re: Center section question (John Recine)
8. 12:39 PM - Re: Center section question (Gary Boothe)
9. 12:54 PM - Re: Center section question (Ken Chambers)
10. 01:07 PM - This is different- pilot step (helspersew@aol.com)
11. 01:18 PM - Pilot step (helspersew@aol.com)
12. 01:19 PM - Re: travel (John Recine)
13. 01:19 PM - Re: This is different- pilot step (John Recine)
14. 01:21 PM - Re: This is different- pilot step (Jim Markle)
15. 01:21 PM - Re: Pilot step (John Recine)
16. 02:14 PM - Re: Pilot step (Gary Boothe)
17. 02:15 PM - Re: Center section question (Gary Boothe)
18. 02:17 PM - Re: Pilot step (Jim Markle)
19. 02:21 PM - Re: Center section question (Jim Markle)
20. 03:53 PM - Re: Center section question (Ben Charvet)
21. 03:54 PM - Re: Pilot step (Rick Holland)
22. 07:56 PM - Re: Center section question (Ken Chambers)
Message 1
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Subject: | removing contact cement |
Oscar=2C
Depends on the paint. If it's and OEM finnish on a car or truck built w/in
the last 20yrs then laquer thinner is fine. For any other paint I wouldn'
t go any harsher than a cleaner/degreaser sold at any automotive paint shop
=2C but I'm not sure that it will cut contact cement.
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
> From: taildrags@hotmail.com
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: removing contact cement
> Date: Fri=2C 20 Nov 2009 15:03:44 -0600
>
>
>
>
> Does anyone have recommendations regarding how to
> remove contact cement from painted surfaces? For
> example=2C if a gasket or trim comes off of an auto
> and needs to be reattached but there is contact
> cement residue (the typical yellow cement)=2C is there
> something that will release the old cement without
> harming the paint?
>
> Most cement cans=2C like the Weldwood that I have=2C
> says to use mineral spirits for cleanup but before
> I try it I thought I'd ask. The paint is enamel.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio=2C TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: I wanted simpler=2C now it's simpler. I'm a rock star.
http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=P
ID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:112009
Message 2
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Subject: | Covering question - drain grommets |
Am having fun covering my tail pieces using the Stuart systems stuff (its
great not having to breath that stinkin MEK in a closed garage). Would like
opinions about installing drain grommets, seems to be 3 ways to do it:
1 - Just burn holes in the fabric with a soldering iron.
2 - Glue drain grommets to the fabric
3 - Glue drain grommets to the fabric and cover with a glued on 2" patch
Also did you burn the hole before or after finish paint?
Thanks
Rick
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Covering question - drain grommets |
I used drain grommets on my wing and burned holes on the tail. I'm not too crazy
about the drain grommets. Ugly and just add to something else that can peel
and you have to kind of sand around them in the build up coats. I'm just about
ready to start spraying the build up coats on my Chief now. I'm just burning
holes in with the solder iron after it's finished through color. It's neater
and simpler too. Just make sure it is on a tape and not just out in single
layer fabric.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=274090#274090
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Covering question - drain grommets |
Rick,
I am a little ahead of you with the Stewart System. I just took a solderin
g iron with a blunt round end (I think about 3/16") and burned right throu
gh. Be careful not to go through to the other side. "Measure twice, burn
once." I see no reason to use drain grommets.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Nov 21, 2009 10:54 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Covering question - drain grommets
Am having fun covering my tail pieces using the Stuart systems stuff (its
great not having to breath that stinkin MEK in a closed garage). Would li
ke opinions about installing drain grommets, seems to be 3 ways to do it:
1 - Just burn holes in the fabric with a soldering iron.
2 - Glue drain grommets to the fabric
3 - Glue drain grommets to the fabric and cover with a glued on 2" patch
Also did you burn the hole before or after finish paint?
Thanks
Rick
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
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Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Covering question - drain grommets |
Thanks Dan, thats two votes for just burning drain holes and forgetting the
grommets. That sounds good to me.
Rick
On Sat, Nov 21, 2009 at 1:28 PM, <helspersew@aol.com> wrote:
> Rick,
>
> I am a little ahead of you with the Stewart System. I just took a soldering
> iron with a blunt round end (I think about 3/16") and burned right through.
> Be careful not to go through to the other side. "Measure twice, burn
> once." I see no reason to use drain grommets.
>
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sat, Nov 21, 2009 10:54 am
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Covering question - drain grommets
>
> Am having fun covering my tail pieces using the Stuart systems stuff (its
> great not having to breath that stinkin MEK in a closed garage). Would like
> opinions about installing drain grommets, seems to be 3 ways to do it:
>
> 1 - Just burn holes in the fabric with a soldering iron.
> 2 - Glue drain grommets to the fabric
> 3 - Glue drain grommets to the fabric and cover with a glued on 2" patch
>
> Also did you burn the hole before or after finish paint?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
>
> --
> Rick Holland
> Castle Rock, Colorado
>
> "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
>
> *
>
> ===================================
> =_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
> m/" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
> =_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
> _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
> t" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> ===================================
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 6
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Subject: | Center section question |
Has anyone glued their center section floor on the outside of the ribs and
compressions struts?
Looks like on the plans you glue it to the spars, which leaves space between
the floor and the 2" wide plywood rib braces along the bottom of each rib.
I thought if I used one piece of plywood as the floor out to the ribs it can
serve as a the rib braces too. I could ad cap strips to the bottom of the
spars to provide a gluing surface even with the bottom of the ribs.
Does this make any sense? Anyone see any problems?
As an aside, I was scraping the second layer of wall paper off my kitchen
this morning when I remembered that I bought this old house six years ago.
At the time, I mentioned to Jim Markle (a customer of my dad's parts supply
business) that I'd have it all fixed up in about six months so I could get
back to the Pietenpol. He said something like "I'd give it six years" And
I'm just now finishing up the worst of it. But I have worked in a little
Pietenpol time.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Center section question |
TmV2ZXIgdW5kZXJlc3RpbWF0ZSB0aGUgYWxsIGtub3dpbmcsIGFsbCBzZWVpbmcgIE1hcmtsZSEN
Cg0KRG8gbm90IGFyY2hpdmUNCg0KSm9obiAgDQpTZW50IGZyb20gbXkgVmVyaXpvbiBXaXJlbGVz
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aWV0ZW5wb2wgdGltZS4NCg0K
Message 8
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Subject: | Center section question |
Ken,
I'm just finishing up some varnishing on my center section now. I glued
floor to spars and compression struts, as per plans. Your idea might be OK,
but I don't see how you are going to attach to the spars, unless you use a
filler piece. That might be OK, too. Other than that, I don't see a problem
(or an advantage). Yes, there is a gap between the floor and the rib braces,
but all covers up with fabric.
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(15 ribs down.)
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Chambers
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 12:02 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Center section question
Has anyone glued their center section floor on the outside of the ribs and
compressions struts?
Looks like on the plans you glue it to the spars, which leaves space between
the floor and the 2" wide plywood rib braces along the bottom of each rib.
I thought if I used one piece of plywood as the floor out to the ribs it can
serve as a the rib braces too. I could ad cap strips to the bottom of the
spars to provide a gluing surface even with the bottom of the ribs.
Does this make any sense? Anyone see any problems?
As an aside, I was scraping the second layer of wall paper off my kitchen
this morning when I remembered that I bought this old house six years ago.
At the time, I mentioned to Jim Markle (a customer of my dad's parts supply
business) that I'd have it all fixed up in about six months so I could get
back to the Pietenpol. He said something like "I'd give it six years" And
I'm just now finishing up the worst of it. But I have worked in a little
Pietenpol time.
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Center section question |
Thanks Gary, your answer brings up another question I have. In the
description of the compression strut, my plans say: "Bottom edge cut out to
match bottom curve of wing rib."
So wouldn't this mean that you couldn't glue the floor to the spars and the
compression struts unless you had a filler to make the spars the same level
?
On Sat, Nov 21, 2009 at 2:35 PM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote:
> Ken,
>
>
> I=92m just finishing up some varnishing on my center section now. I glued
> floor to spars and compression struts, as per plans. Your idea might be O
K,
> but I don=92t see how you are going to attach to the spars, unless you us
e a
> filler piece. That might be OK, too. Other than that, I don=92t see a pro
blem
> (or an advantage). Yes, there is a gap between the floor and the rib brac
es,
> but all covers up with fabric.
>
>
> Gary Boothe
>
> Cool, Ca.
>
> Pietenpol
>
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
>
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
>
> (15 ribs down=85)
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Ken Chambers
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 21, 2009 12:02 PM
>
> *To:* pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Pietenpol-List: Center section question
>
>
> Has anyone glued their center section floor on the outside of the ribs an
d
> compressions struts?
>
> Looks like on the plans you glue it to the spars, which leaves space
> between the floor and the 2" wide plywood rib braces along the bottom of
> each rib.
>
> I thought if I used one piece of plywood as the floor out to the ribs it
> can serve as a the rib braces too. I could ad cap strips to the bottom of
> the spars to provide a gluing surface even with the bottom of the ribs.
>
> Does this make any sense? Anyone see any problems?
>
> As an aside, I was scraping the second layer of wall paper off my kitchen
> this morning when I remembered that I bought this old house six years ago
.
> At the time, I mentioned to Jim Markle (a customer of my dad's parts supp
ly
> business) that I'd have it all fixed up in about six months so I could ge
t
> back to the Pietenpol. He said something like "I'd give it six years" And
> I'm just now finishing up the worst of it. But I have worked in a little
> Pietenpol time.
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *www.aeroelectric.com*
>
> *www.homebuilthelp.com*
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Ken Chambers
512-796-1798
Message 10
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Subject: | This is different- pilot step |
Hi Guys,
Here is a pic of the protective plate I just finished that goes around the
pilot step. Only had to make it twice to get it right. I saw one like thi
s on an antique biplane at Oshkosh.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
Message 11
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Forgot to attach photo.
Message 12
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Message 13
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Subject: | Re: This is different- pilot step |
Dan
I have some polished aluminum tread plate I am considerin
g using for that application if you are interested in a
piece? Let me know
John
Do not archive
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: helspersew@aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: This is different- pilot step
Hi Guys,
Here is a pic of the protective plate I just finished
that goes around the pilot step. Only had to make it
twice to get it right. I saw one like this on an
antique biplane at Oshkosh.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: This is different- pilot step |
Ok, let's see it!!! :-)
I didn't get the attachment...
-----Original Message-----
From: helspersew@aol.com
Sent: Nov 21, 2009 3:02 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: This is different- pilot step
Hi Guys,
Here is a pic of the protective plate I just finished that goes around the pilot
step. Only had to make it twice to get it right. I saw one like this on an antique
biplane at Oshkosh.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
Message 15
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Killer job Dan, looks great!
John
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: helspersew@aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Pilot step
Forgot to attach photo.
Message 16
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HOLY COW, Dan!! That's beautiful. You're not going to want to put your dirty
tennies on that step!!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(15 ribs down.)
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
helspersew@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 1:14 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Pilot step
Forgot to attach photo.
Message 17
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Subject: | Center section question |
I'm sure others have done differently, but I took this to mean that, when
the compression strut is even with the bottom of the spar, there is an area,
only in the middle, that needs to be matched to the rib curve.
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(15 ribs down.)
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Chambers
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Center section question
Thanks Gary, your answer brings up another question I have. In the
description of the compression strut, my plans say: "Bottom edge cut out to
match bottom curve of wing rib."
So wouldn't this mean that you couldn't glue the floor to the spars and the
compression struts unless you had a filler to make the spars the same level?
On Sat, Nov 21, 2009 at 2:35 PM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote:
Ken,
I'm just finishing up some varnishing on my center section now. I glued
floor to spars and compression struts, as per plans. Your idea might be OK,
but I don't see how you are going to attach to the spars, unless you use a
filler piece. That might be OK, too. Other than that, I don't see a problem
(or an advantage). Yes, there is a gap between the floor and the rib braces,
but all covers up with fabric.
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(15 ribs down.)
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Chambers
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 12:02 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Center section question
Has anyone glued their center section floor on the outside of the ribs and
compressions struts?
Looks like on the plans you glue it to the spars, which leaves space between
the floor and the 2" wide plywood rib braces along the bottom of each rib.
I thought if I used one piece of plywood as the floor out to the ribs it can
serve as a the rib braces too. I could ad cap strips to the bottom of the
spars to provide a gluing surface even with the bottom of the ribs.
Does this make any sense? Anyone see any problems?
As an aside, I was scraping the second layer of wall paper off my kitchen
this morning when I remembered that I bought this old house six years ago.
At the time, I mentioned to Jim Markle (a customer of my dad's parts supply
business) that I'd have it all fixed up in about six months so I could get
back to the Pietenpol. He said something like "I'd give it six years" And
I'm just now finishing up the worst of it. But I have worked in a little
Pietenpol time.
www.aeroelectric.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
--
Ken Chambers
512-796-1798
Message 18
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Rolling the material around the corner into the inside of the opening is a very
nice touch!
Sweet.
-----Original Message-----
From: helspersew@aol.com
Sent: Nov 21, 2009 3:13 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Pilot step
Forgot to attach photo.
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Center section question |
As an aside, I was scraping the second layer of wall paper off my kitchen this
morning when I remembered that I bought this old house six years ago. At the time,
I mentioned to Jim Markle (a customer of my dad's parts supply business)
that I'd have it all fixed up in about six months so I could get back to the Pietenpol.
He said something like "I'd give it six years" And I'm just now finishing
up the worst of it. But I have worked in a little Pietenpol time.
Believe me, that estimate was based on experience.....I'm just glad to see you
back to work on what REALLY matters!
I miss going out to see your dad and being able to ask questions about aviation
supplies and get an answer from someone who knew what they were talking about....plus
he's just a nice guy.
jm
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Center section question |
I think I used a 1/8inch filler on the bottom of the spars, and glued
the compression struts 1/8 inch above the bottom of the ribs, to make
the floor flush with the bottom of the ribs. When I made the 1/16 inch
cap strips I tapered the inside edge with sandpaper before glueing it in
place and overlapped the floor by 1/2 inch, which tied the whole thing
together (made that cap strip 2-1/2 inch wide)
Ben Charvet
Piet is done, now overhauling the A-65.
Ken Chambers wrote:
>
> Thanks Gary, your answer brings up another question I have. In the
> description of the compression strut, my plans say: "Bottom edge cut
> out to match bottom curve of wing rib."
>
> So wouldn't this mean that you couldn't glue the floor to the spars
> and the compression struts unless you had a filler to make the spars
> the same level?
>
>
Message 21
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Holy cow, looks like modern art.
On Sat, Nov 21, 2009 at 4:13 PM, <helspersew@aol.com> wrote:
> Forgot to attach photo.
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Center section question |
Hey Jim
Dad asked where you've been. I told him I was afraid that you had moved up
north.
Dad's retiring more every month. Gradually getting rid of his inventory, but
still building and flying airplanes.
Ken
On Sat, Nov 21, 2009 at 4:20 PM, Jim Markle <jim_markle@mindspring.com>wrote:
> jim_markle@mindspring.com>
>
> As an aside, I was scraping the second layer of wall paper off my kitchen
> this morning when I remembered that I bought this old house six years ago.
> At the time, I mentioned to Jim Markle (a customer of my dad's parts supply
> business) that I'd have it all fixed up in about six months so I could get
> back to the Pietenpol. He said something like "I'd give it six years" And
> I'm just now finishing up the worst of it. But I have worked in a little
> Pietenpol time.
>
>
> Believe me, that estimate was based on experience.....I'm just glad to see
> you back to work on what REALLY matters!
>
> I miss going out to see your dad and being able to ask questions about
> aviation supplies and get an answer from someone who knew what they were
> talking about....plus he's just a nice guy.
>
> jm
>
>
--
Ken Chambers
512-796-1798
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