Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:40 AM - Re: Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass tipping (helspersew@aol.com)
     2. 05:49 AM - Re: New to site (A&PBuggy)
     3. 07:12 AM - Re: Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass 	tipping (Steve Ruse)
     4. 07:13 AM - Re: Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass 	tipping (Steve Ruse)
     5. 08:01 AM - Re: Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass tipping (Owen Davies)
     6. 08:25 AM - Re: Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass tipping (Gary Boothe)
     7. 11:23 AM - aileron cables (Douwe Blumberg)
     8. 12:44 PM - Re: aileron cables (Jack Phillips)
     9. 12:44 PM - Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass tipping (santiago morete)
    10. 12:53 PM - Re: aileron cables (Gene Rambo)
    11. 03:24 PM - Re: aileron cables (airlion)
    12. 03:45 PM - Re: aileron cables (Gary Boothe)
    13. 03:48 PM - Re: aileron cables (Jack Phillips)
    14. 05:30 PM - Re: aileron cables (Jack)
 
 
 
Message 1
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| Subject:  | Re: Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass tipping | 
      
      
      Santiago,
      
      As you know I have a prop that is very curvy in all directions. The idea
       that I came up with I think will work but is very complicated. Make a box
      , open at the top, about the length of 1/2 the propeller. fill with wet co
      ncrete (or plaster) and then push the leading edge down into the wet mixtu
      re (protected by polyethylene sheet) and let dry. After curing remove prop
       and then pre-cut brass. Push and form brass down into cured concrete mold
       to take on the shape of the prop. Complicated but I may try it at some po
      int. 
      
      With all the many thousands of these props out there, it must be easier th
      an all this.
      
      Dan Helsper
      Poplar Grove, IL.
      
      
Message 2
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      I know Dave well, He gave me the plans I have. I have not seen his finished plane,
      might have to take a ride and check it out!!
      
      --------
      never enough hours in the day.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282052#282052
      
      
Message 3
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| Subject:  | Re: Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass 	tipping | 
      
      
      Dan,
      
      I found this via google, it might be of a little help.  Might be worth  
      trying to find Jesse Sims, he might give you some tips:
      
      http://www.airspacemag.com/how-things-work/good_wood.html?c=y&page=5
      
      The master carvers move perfectly balanced props on to have the  
      leading edge tipping applied: stainless steel and brass work that  
      conforms to the twisting curve of the leading edge so closely and  
      finely as to be barely palpable. Jesse Sims, who fabricates and  
      fastens the sheet metal tipping, adds as much as 12 ounces of brass or  
      stainless steel sheet metal plus the weight of as many as a hundred  
      screws and rivets. He makes the sheets into trough-shaped pieces that  
      wrap the edge for an inch and a half, then he clamps the metal onto  
      the prop, adjusting a bungee cord so that it doesn?t cover the holes  
      he had earlier drilled for the screws and rivets that fasten the metal  
      to the wood. Using a torch and solder, he drips molten lead into the  
      bugled depressions in the edge, which he will then grind and polish  
      until he achieves a fine sheen.
      
      ?The paint booth boys can change the balance with an extra coat of  
      paint here and there, but these props have to be within a couple grams  
      of perfect when I?m done,? Sims says.
      
      Quoting helspersew@aol.com:
      
      >
      >
      > Santiago,
      >
      > As you know I have a prop that is very curvy in all directions. The   
      > idea that I came up with I think will work but is very complicated.   
      > Make a box, open at the top, about the length of 1/2 the propeller.   
      > fill with wet concrete (or plaster) and then push the leading edge   
      > down into the wet mixture (protected by polyethylene sheet) and let   
      > dry. After curing remove prop and then pre-cut brass. Push and form   
      > brass down into cured concrete mold to take on the shape of the   
      > prop. Complicated but I may try it at some point.
      >
      > With all the many thousands of these props out there, it must be   
      > easier than all this.
      >
      > Dan Helsper
      > Poplar Grove, IL.
      >
      >
      
      
Message 4
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| Subject:  | Re: Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass 	tipping | 
      
      
      Dan,
      
      A guy named Mike Redpath owns a small propeller shop at Paradise  
      Airport south of Oklahoma City.  I've seen some antique propellers  
      with metal leading edges that he made and they looked good.  The last  
      one I saw was a big prop that cost over $2k, he was sending it to  
      someone to hang on their wall.  He'd probably be willing to give you a  
      brief rundown of his process over the phone.  Just share it with us  
      when you get it!
      
      Mike Redpath - 405-414-1072
      
      Steve Ruse
      Norman, OK
      
      Quoting helspersew@aol.com:
      
      
      > Santiago,
      >
      > As you know I have a prop that is very curvy in all directions. The   
      > idea that I came up with I think will work but is very complicated.   
      > Make a box, open at the top, about the length of 1/2 the propeller.   
      > fill with wet concrete (or plaster) and then push the leading edge   
      > down into the wet mixture (protected by polyethylene sheet) and let   
      > dry. After curing remove prop and then pre-cut brass. Push and form   
      > brass down into cured concrete mold to take on the shape of the   
      > prop. Complicated but I may try it at some point.
      >
      > With all the many thousands of these props out there, it must be   
      > easier than all this.
      >
      > Dan Helsper
      > Poplar Grove, IL.
      >
      >
      
      
Message 5
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| Subject:  | Re: Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass tipping | 
      
      On 1/18/2010 7:26 AM, helspersew@aol.com wrote:
      > As you know I have a prop that is very curvy in all directions. The 
      > idea that I came up with I think will work but is very complicated. 
      > Make a box, open at the top, about the length of 1/2 the propeller. 
      > fill with wet concrete (or plaster) and then push the leading edge 
      > down into the wet mixture (protected by polyethylene sheet) and let 
      > dry. After curing remove prop and then pre-cut brass. Push and form 
      > brass down into cured concrete mold to take on the shape of the prop. 
      > Complicated but I may try it at some point.
      >
      Sounds workable, but I wonder what kind of finish you will get off a 
      concrete mold. Is there anything that will smooth out the concrete so 
      you won't have to cope with massive irregularities from the sand, etc?
      
      Owen
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass tipping | 
      
      Casting plaster would be the best to use.no aggregate. Still not sure if it
      would scratch copper or brass, but definitely worth a try.
      
      
      Gary Boothe
      
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Owen Davies
      Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 8:02 AM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass
      tipping
      
      
      On 1/18/2010 7:26 AM, helspersew@aol.com wrote: 
      
      As you know I have a prop that is very curvy in all directions. The idea
      that I came up with I think will work but is very complicated. Make a box,
      open at the top, about the length of 1/2 the propeller. fill with wet
      concrete (or plaster) and then push the leading edge down into the wet
      mixture (protected by polyethylene sheet) and let dry. After curing remove
      prop and then pre-cut brass. Push and form brass down into cured concrete
      mold to take on the shape of the prop. Complicated but I may try it at some
      point.
      
      Sounds workable, but I wonder what kind of finish you will get off a
      concrete mold. Is there anything that will smooth out the concrete so you
      won't have to cope with massive irregularities from the sand, etc?
      
      Owen
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Where my aileron cables cross in front of the stick, they rub a little.  Did you
      guys offset them somehow or wrap one with something to protect them?
      
      Douwe
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      I had the same problem Douwe.  Congratulations!  This just shows that your
      aileron horns are square with the torque tube (if they are square, the
      cables can't help but hit each other).
      
      Problem was solved by judicious application of a hammer to one side of the
      aileron horn on the torque tube.  Just bend one of the horns (or both, but
      in opposite directions) enough to give some clearance between the cables.
      Depending on your enthusiasm with the hammer, you might have to enlarge the
      holes where they pass through the plywood under the instrument panel to
      maintain clearance.
      
      Jack Phillips
      NX899JP
      Rakeigh, NC
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douwe
      Blumberg
      Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 2:20 PM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: aileron cables
      
      <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
      
      Where my aileron cables cross in front of the stick, they rub a little.  Did
      you guys offset them somehow or wrap one with something to protect them?
      
      Douwe
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Cool propeller shapes- how to make brass tipping | 
      
      Dan,
      -
      Maybe-the easiest way is as shown in the photos, but if you don't like ho
      w that looks, I think you can make those "ears" close enough to each other 
      and braze the gaps. The brazing will be invisible after sanding and polishi
      ng.-
      I made a magneto switch using a brass sheet, cutting, forming and brazing a
      nd is not really hard to form.--
      Saludos
      -
      Santiago=0A=0A=0A      Yahoo! Cocina=0A=0AEncontra las mejores recetas con 
      Yahoo! Cocina.=0A=0A=0Ahttp://ar.mujer.yahoo.com/cocina/
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: aileron cables | 
      
      I'd just bend one of the tabs a little bit so they miss.
      
      Gene
      
      do not archive
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Douwe Blumberg<mailto:douweblumberg@earthlink.net> 
        To: pietenpolgroup<mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com> 
        Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 2:20 PM
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: aileron cables
      
      
      <douweblumberg@earthlink.net<mailto:douweblumberg@earthlink.net>>
      
        Where my aileron cables cross in front of the stick, they rub a 
      little.  Did you guys offset them somehow or wrap one with something to 
      protect them?
      
        Douwe
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List<http://www.matronics.co
      m/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
      on>
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: aileron cables | 
      
      
      Jack, I just did that fix for my aileron cables as we speak and got good clearance.
      I just had my inspection last friday and passed the first go around. I can
      now fly when I get my nerve up. Cheers, Gardiner Mason
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----
      From: Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
      Sent: Mon, January 18, 2010 3:40:49 PM
      Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: aileron cables
      
      
      I had the same problem Douwe.  Congratulations!  This just shows that your
      aileron horns are square with the torque tube (if they are square, the
      cables can't help but hit each other).
      
      Problem was solved by judicious application of a hammer to one side of the
      aileron horn on the torque tube.  Just bend one of the horns (or both, but
      in opposite directions) enough to give some clearance between the cables.
      Depending on your enthusiasm with the hammer, you might have to enlarge the
      holes where they pass through the plywood under the instrument panel to
      maintain clearance.
      
      Jack Phillips
      NX899JP
      Rakeigh, NC
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douwe
      Blumberg
      Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 2:20 PM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: aileron cables
      
      <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
      
      Where my aileron cables cross in front of the stick, they rub a little.  Did
      you guys offset them somehow or wrap one with something to protect them?
      
      Douwe
      
      
Message 12
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Congratulations, Gardiner! I was told you have A LOT of nerve....
      
      Gary Boothe
      Cool, CA
      Pietenpol
      WW Corvair Conversion
      Tail done, Fuselage on gear
      16 ribs done
      Do not archive
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of airlion
      Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 3:21 PM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: aileron cables
      
      
      Jack, I just did that fix for my aileron cables as we speak and got good
      clearance. I just had my inspection last friday and passed the first go
      around. I can now fly when I get my nerve up. Cheers, Gardiner Mason
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----
      From: Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
      Sent: Mon, January 18, 2010 3:40:49 PM
      Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: aileron cables
      
      <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
      
      I had the same problem Douwe.  Congratulations!  This just shows that your
      aileron horns are square with the torque tube (if they are square, the
      cables can't help but hit each other).
      
      Problem was solved by judicious application of a hammer to one side of the
      aileron horn on the torque tube.  Just bend one of the horns (or both, but
      in opposite directions) enough to give some clearance between the cables.
      Depending on your enthusiasm with the hammer, you might have to enlarge the
      holes where they pass through the plywood under the instrument panel to
      maintain clearance.
      
      Jack Phillips
      NX899JP
      Rakeigh, NC
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douwe
      Blumberg
      Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 2:20 PM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: aileron cables
      
      <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
      
      Where my aileron cables cross in front of the stick, they rub a little.  Did
      you guys offset them somehow or wrap one with something to protect them?
      
      Douwe
      
      
Message 13
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Cool, Gardiner!  Go for it and send pictures!  Then fly off the hours so you
      can take it to Sun 'n' Fun.
      
      Jack Phillips
      NX899JP
      Raleigh, NC
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of airlion
      Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 6:21 PM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: aileron cables
      
      
      Jack, I just did that fix for my aileron cables as we speak and got good
      clearance. I just had my inspection last friday and passed the first go
      around. I can now fly when I get my nerve up. Cheers, Gardiner Mason
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----
      From: Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
      Sent: Mon, January 18, 2010 3:40:49 PM
      Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: aileron cables
      
      <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
      
      I had the same problem Douwe.  Congratulations!  This just shows that your
      aileron horns are square with the torque tube (if they are square, the
      cables can't help but hit each other).
      
      Problem was solved by judicious application of a hammer to one side of the
      aileron horn on the torque tube.  Just bend one of the horns (or both, but
      in opposite directions) enough to give some clearance between the cables.
      Depending on your enthusiasm with the hammer, you might have to enlarge the
      holes where they pass through the plywood under the instrument panel to
      maintain clearance.
      
      Jack Phillips
      NX899JP
      Rakeigh, NC
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douwe
      Blumberg
      Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 2:20 PM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: aileron cables
      
      <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
      
      Where my aileron cables cross in front of the stick, they rub a little.  Did
      you guys offset them somehow or wrap one with something to protect them?
      
      Douwe
      
      
Message 14
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Thanks Jack and Douwe, I'm just getting ready to weld mine.  Will plan to
      offset a bit.
      Jack
      DSM
      
      
 
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