Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Mon 01/25/10


Total Messages Posted: 45



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:52 AM - Re: Thank you (H RULE)
     2. 06:14 AM - Markle tribute video (Oscar Zuniga)
     3. 07:47 AM - Re: Re: Control Assembly (Michael Perez)
     4. 07:55 AM - Brodhead '10 (Gary Boothe)
     5. 08:12 AM - Re: Brodhead '10 (Tim Willis)
     6. 08:52 AM - Brodhead '10 (helspersew@aol.com)
     7. 08:53 AM - Re: Markle tribute video (Gary Boothe)
     8. 09:06 AM - Re: Brodhead '10 (Ryan Mueller)
     9. 09:07 AM - firewall tip (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation])
    10. 09:34 AM - Re: Re: Control Assembly (Rick Holland)
    11. 09:35 AM - Re: Brodhead '10 (Dan Yocum)
    12. 09:36 AM - Re: Brodhead '10 (Jack Phillips)
    13. 09:40 AM - Generic Airplane stuff (TOM STINEMETZE)
    14. 09:41 AM - Re: Brodhead '10 (Ryan Mueller)
    15. 09:42 AM - Re: Re: Control Assembly (Jack)
    16. 10:00 AM - off topic question (Douwe Blumberg)
    17. 10:04 AM - Re: Control Assembly (Jack)
    18. 10:15 AM - motorcycle links (Tim Willis)
    19. 10:21 AM - Re: off topic question (Gary Boothe)
    20. 10:24 AM - Re: off topic question (Jim Ash)
    21. 10:28 AM - Re: Brodhead '10 (helspersew@aol.com)
    22. 10:30 AM - Re: motorcycle links (Gary Boothe)
    23. 10:33 AM - Re: Firewall tip (helspersew@aol.com)
    24. 10:34 AM - Re: off topic question (Michael Perez)
    25. 10:49 AM - Re: off topic question (Tim Willis)
    26. 10:51 AM - Re: off topic question (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation])
    27. 11:02 AM - Re: Brodhead '10 (Ryan Mueller)
    28. 11:20 AM - motorcycle links (Oscar Zuniga)
    29. 11:46 AM - Re: motorcycle links (K5YAC)
    30. 11:54 AM - Re: Control Assembly (Thomas Bernie)
    31. 12:03 PM - Re: Re: Firewall tip (Tim Willis)
    32. 12:25 PM - good NOAA METAR interactive weather map (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation])
    33. 12:30 PM - Re: firewall tip (Rick Holland)
    34. 12:42 PM - glue: do not eat (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation])
    35. 12:54 PM - Re: firewall tip (Michael Perez)
    36. 01:14 PM - Re: glue: do not eat (Jim Markle)
    37. 02:22 PM - Re: glue: do not eat (Bill Church)
    38. 02:25 PM - Re: firewall tip (Rick Holland)
    39. 02:31 PM - Re: glue: do not eat (Jeff Boatright)
    40. 02:49 PM - Re: Re: this group is really incredible (brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com)
    41. 02:55 PM - Re: this group is really incredible (Bill Church)
    42. 03:31 PM - Re: off topic question (Bill Church)
    43. 03:51 PM - Re: firewall tip (Ben Charvet)
    44. 11:11 PM - Re: off topic question (Clif Dawson)
    45. 11:28 PM - Re: motorcycle links (Clif Dawson)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:52:26 AM PST US
    From: H RULE <harvey.rule@rogers.com>
    Subject: Re: Thank you
    Secretly, we all knew you really didn't want to sell that plane.=0A=0Ado no t archive=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Jim Markle <jim_markle@mindspring.com>=0ATo: Pietenpol List <pietenpol-list@matronics .com>=0ASent: Sun, January 24, 2010 11:41:07 PM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: @mindspring.com>=0A=0ATo all my friends on this list....=0A=0AThis week has been amazing beyond words.=0A=0AI have said for years that just getting to hang out with the Pietenpol community is always a proud and humbling exper ience for me.- And seeing how passionately we care about projects staying where they are and then flying some day, well that reaction didn't surpris e me a bit.- I can tell you the names of every builder that has had to "p ass on" a project since 2002 when I started mine.- Most of those were nev er finished.- I always hate reading those announcements.=0A=0ABut how qui ckly THIS all went from "this project needs to stay where it is" to "here's what we're gonna do to make sure it stays there" then barely two days late r "everyone has pitched in (PLUS EXTRA!) so now you need to put a "sold" si gn on it and leave it where it is"...well, that has been overwhelming.- U nbelievable.=0A=0AReally though this has been about something far grander t han keeping a Pietenpol project in someones workshop.- This has really be en about good people.=0A=0ASo I am once again proud and humbled by the peop le that "I want to be like when I grow up".=0A=0AI wish my dad was still ar ound.- I would have loved to have introduced him to all of you....life be at him down a few times and he was a bit cynical about the good in people. - This would have changed his life.=0A=0AIt has changed mine.=0A=0AThank =


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:14:56 AM PST US
    From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Markle tribute video
    I guess it was John Hofmann who posted this: http://gallery.me.com/johnnyskyrocket#100017 I like to fell out of my chair laughing a couple of times. Excellent work! You guys are a riot, when you're not disconcerting the masses... Oscar Zuniga Air Camper NX41CC San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:47:13 AM PST US
    From: Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Control Assembly
    Since day one of receiving the plans, I have been looking forward to buildi ng the fuselage. I am in the middle of that now and it is by far the most f un I have had on the project. Everything attaches to it, so you must procee ded very cautiously and fit and re fit everything as you go. You will be fo rced to think about and make metal fittings as you decide how to fit in you r controls and allow everything to move and give you full control surface t ravel. (This then requires more metal work to make the control horns and cr anks.) While your at it, fit up the tail so you can attach all the controls and see, real time, how it all moves, what binds, what needs to be relocat ed, etc. THEN you can go back and put in your seats! But, as myself and mos t others have done, allow yourself a way to get into the areas you need und er/behind the seats for servicing/repairs. - I think that making and welding all the steel that I have had to do so far is ALMOST as fun as the fuselage. I fought it at first, but now I really en joy the welding! - If interested, I can send some pics. on what I have done with the fuse.,sea ts, fittings, etc. I like to ask as to not take up more server space with p ictures no one wants to see.


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:55:33 AM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: Brodhead '10
    Anybody know the dates for Brodhead 2010? Gary Boothe Cool, CA Pietenpol WW Corvair Conversion Tail done, Fuselage on gear 16 ribs done


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:12:02 AM PST US
    From: Tim Willis <timothywillis@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Brodhead '10
    Brodhead is just before EAA AirVenture in Oshkosh. That makes Brodhead these dates: Thursday, July 22, 2010 to Sunday, July 25. Thursday might/might not be an "official date" for it. The most active days, weather dependent, will likely be Friday and Saturday. Many of the Piets leave for Oshkosh or home early Sunday. Tim in central TX, hoping to be there in 2010, as in 2006 and 2008. -----Original Message----- >From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> >Sent: Jan 25, 2010 9:05 AM >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead '10 > > >Anybody know the dates for Brodhead 2010? > >Gary Boothe >Cool, CA >Pietenpol >WW Corvair Conversion >Tail done, Fuselage on gear >16 ribs done > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:52:26 AM PST US
    Subject: Brodhead '10
    From: helspersew@aol.com
    Guys, Hopefully I will be there with my completed Piet. I still have to fabricat e cockpit combing and apply finish color paint/trim. Then fly-off the 40 hours. But I have a trick up my sleeve on that one maybe. Can I specify a 40 mile circle from my home airport for the 40 hour fly-off? If so I co uld fly it over to Brod even though I may be short of the 40 hours. Anybod y know? Dan Helsper Poplar Grove, IL.


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:53:40 AM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: Markle tribute video
    Thanks, Oscar, for reposting that! I have been relegated to the Corp Computer all week, and it doesn't allow such non-sense and vulgarities... Your post reminded me and I forwarded it to my personal laptop, which is full of such! My wife wanted to know what I was laughing about, so looked over my shoulder. She wanted to know what "...crank snapping corvairs..." meant....I got some 'splainin' to do...Thanks, John! Gary Boothe Cool, CA Pietenpol WW Corvair Conversion Tail done, Fuselage on gear 16 ribs done Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar Zuniga Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 6:06 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Markle tribute video I guess it was John Hofmann who posted this: http://gallery.me.com/johnnyskyrocket#100017 I like to fell out of my chair laughing a couple of times. Excellent work! You guys are a riot, when you're not disconcerting the masses... Oscar Zuniga Air Camper NX41CC San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net


    Message 8


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    Time: 09:06:26 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Brodhead '10
    From: Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@gmail.com>
    Gary, Per the BPA website: http://www.pietenpols.org/id5.html - July 22, 23, 24 That jives with the 431 Calendar of events: http://www.eaa431.org/. They list the 25th (Sunday), but as you know the place turns into a ghost town pretty quick on Sunday. :P Ryan On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 9:05 AM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote: > > Anybody know the dates for Brodhead 2010? > > Gary Boothe > Cool, CA > Pietenpol > WW Corvair Conversion > Tail done, Fuselage on gear > 16 ribs done > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:07:26 AM PST US
    From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy@nasa.gov>
    Subject: firewall tip
    In reading about removable seat backs/ bottoms it reminded me of one of the best moves I made (or didn't make) while building and that was to not glue my fuselage 1/8" plywood bulkhead in until the very last step on the fuselage before COVERING. I mean I did not glue the firewall in until after the engine was completely rebuilt and inst alled and run on the airframe so that I could properly locate all of the controls like th rottle, carb heat, gascolator, fuel line, oil pressure and temperature runs, and the all impo rtant smoke oil supply. Installation of the front rudder pedals is a snap too without t hat firewall in place. Mike C.


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:34:35 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Control Assembly
    From: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
    I agree, I ended up enjoying the metal work as much as the wood work. One thing I did to to make sure that everything was setup correctly and accessible was to leave one of the ply cockpit sides off until the fuselage and control were nearly complete. Rick On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 10:37 AM, Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>wrote: > Since day one of receiving the plans, I have been looking forward to > building the fuselage. I am in the middle of that now and it is by far the > most fun I have had on the project. Everything attaches to it, so you must > proceeded very cautiously and fit and re fit everything as you go. You will > be forced to think about and make metal fittings as you decide how to fit in > your controls and allow everything to move and give you full control surface > travel. (This then requires more metal work to make the control horns and > cranks.) While your at it, fit up the tail so you can attach all the > controls and see, real time, how it all moves, what binds, what needs to be > relocated, etc. THEN you can go back and put in your seats! But, as myself > and most others have done, allow yourself a way to get into the areas you > need under/behind the seats for servicing/repairs. > > I think that making and welding all the steel that I have had to do so far > is ALMOST as fun as the fuselage. I fought it at first, but now I really > enjoy the welding! > > If interested, I can send some pics. on what I have done with the fuse.,seats, > fittings, etc. I like to ask as to not take up more server space with > pictures no one wants to see. > > * > > * > > -- Rick Holland Castle Rock, Colorado "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"


    Message 11


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    Time: 09:35:39 AM PST US
    From: Dan Yocum <yocum@fnal.gov>
    Subject: Re: Brodhead '10
    On 01/25/2010 10:41 AM, helspersew@aol.com wrote: > Guys, > Hopefully I will be there with my completed Piet. I still have to > fabricate cockpit combing and apply finish color paint/trim. Then > fly-off the 40 hours. But I have a trick up my sleeve on that one maybe. > Can I specify a 40 mile circle from my home airport for the 40 hour > fly-off? If so I could fly it over to Brod even though I may be short of > the 40 hours. Anybody know? > Dan Helsper > Poplar Grove, IL. I don't see why not... talk to the guys at the DuPage FSDO, of course... I am really looking forward to seeing your Piet at Brodhead, this year... I'm already mentally planning a mini squadron flight. Fly up to Burlington to join up with Rob Bach and his guys, fly down to pick up you and Kurt, then attack at noon from the south! > > * > > > * -- Dan Yocum Fermilab 630.840.6509 yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."


    Message 12


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    Time: 09:36:17 AM PST US
    From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Brodhead '10
    Dan you can ask for whatever you want, and the FAA will likely grant it, if reasonable. I made my initial flights from Sanford, NC (TTA) but was planning to base the plane at Cox Field in Apex, NC. They made my area big enough to include both fields, as well as several other airports, including Siler City (5W8), which is 32 nm away from Cox. If you don't ask, you'll likely get a circle centered on Poplar Grove. They probably won't give you a 40 mile radius (that would be 5,027 square miles, which is bigger than some countries), but as long as your proposed area doesn't go over a densely populated area, they might well give you a box 50 miles long and 5 miles wide, which should be enough for you. Have your proposal marked out on a sectional chart to show them what you want, and say you have friends at Brodhead - not that you want to take it to a busy fly-in. Note that I was dealing with the FAA FSDO, not a DAR. Note only are the Feds more reasonable than some DARs, they are also free. Good luck, Jack Phillips NX899JP Raleigh, NC _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of helspersew@aol.com Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 11:41 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead '10 Guys, Hopefully I will be there with my completed Piet. I still have to fabricate cockpit combing and apply finish color paint/trim. Then fly-off the 40 hours. But I have a trick up my sleeve on that one maybe. Can I specify a 40 mile circle from my home airport for the 40 hour fly-off? If so I could fly it over to Brod even though I may be short of the 40 hours. Anybody know? Dan Helsper Poplar Grove, IL.


    Message 13


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    Time: 09:40:30 AM PST US
    From: "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS@mcpcity.com>
    Subject: Generic Airplane stuff
    Listers: Attached is a link to a long video (more like a movie) about the Gathering of Eagles. I know, a Mustang is not a Pietenpol but this is still great entertainment. http://www.asb.tv/videos/view.php?v=1bf99434&br=500 Tom S. N328X


    Message 14


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    Time: 09:41:02 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Brodhead '10
    From: Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@gmail.com>
    FYI, Skyvector.com says 28.9 nm from C77 to C37.... Ryan do not archive On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 10:41 AM, <helspersew@aol.com> wrote: > Guys, > > Hopefully I will be there with my completed Piet. I still have to fabricate > cockpit combing and apply finish color paint/trim. Then fly-off the 40 > hours. But I have a trick up my sleeve on that one maybe. Can I specify a 40 > mile circle from my home airport for the 40 hour fly-off? If so I could fly > it over to Brod even though I may be short of the 40 hours. Anybody know? > > Dan Helsper > Poplar Grove, IL. > > * > > * > >


    Message 15


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    Time: 09:42:08 AM PST US
    From: "Jack" <jack@textors.com>
    Subject: Re: Control Assembly
    Beautiful work Dan, thanks! _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of helspersew@aol.com Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 6:16 PM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Control Assembly Hi Jack, The seats are not a structural member, thus they never have to be glued. I saw some examples of wicker seating at Brodhead one year, so I researched and taught myself how to weave wicker. I then made a perimeter frame of 1/2" thick ash seats. Then wove wicker seat bottoms. Very happy with the results and I believe very unique. Photos attatched. Dan Helsper Poplar Grove, IL.


    Message 16


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    Time: 10:00:03 AM PST US
    From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
    Subject: off topic question
    As some of you might know, I am a sculptor. I want to propose a piece to a city, but I'm not sure how to build it, so I thought with the knowledge base, I should put it out there. I want to fabricate a vertical helix (spiral, like the DNA strand). It would rise into the sky about twelve to fifteen feet. I want it to be very light and very strong so I thought I could build it from aircraft tubing, cover it with dacron and paint it with latex. So far, so good. However, I'm not sure how to get the tubing bent into that shape. I did one last year where I bent aluminum around a cylindrical from, and though it worked, it was difficult to say the least and I'm not sure we could do with steel, which I'm thinking will be 3/4 to 1". I was wondering if I could have a forging company bend the tubing into circles and then stretch or open them up? I'm sure there is a program out there that would allow a bending machine to just whip these out for me. Any ideas are much appreciated!! Douwe


    Message 17


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    Time: 10:04:00 AM PST US
    From: "Jack" <jack@textors.com>
    Subject: Control Assembly
    Great additional comments on the order of completion of the fuselage, thanks! One thing I wish I had not done was to add wedges to the top longerons on either side of the front seat where the top of the V's would meet the longeron. I will plan to put them behind the seat which should work too. Mr. Pietenpol was right again... Thanks all! Jack DSM


    Message 18


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    Time: 10:15:44 AM PST US
    From: Tim Willis <timothywillis@earthlink.net>
    Subject: motorcycle links
    Guys, I know this should be simple, but... I have looked at the pix of those of you using motorcycle chain links. I got a chain months ago and took the links apart to use as shown in some of the wonderful pix on the site. Predictably the chain steel is wonderful stuff and it is great to get such size, shape, and conformity without gnawing on steel sheet as I often do. Here are the questions: a) if you are using 3/16" pins across the through holes, are you using a sleeve over the pin, to keep the two chain link sides from flopping about? And if so, what is it, fuel line tubing or some such? b) are any of you pressing the chain links back together with the original pressed pins, or using original chain links unassembled? (It looked to me like leaving pieces together left too little room for two eyelet thimbles to fit in, and of course, using a chain link as a link from cable-to-strap requires at least disassembly on the strap end. Tim in central TX


    Message 19


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    Time: 10:21:20 AM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: off topic question
    Douwe, Copper tubing bends quite easily...if only you could ask some of my ancestors from prohibition... I had occasion to use some 1/2" tubing a few years ago while making a home-made water cooler. I bent approximately 20' of tubing around a 16" cylinder (roll of chicken wire!). All worked well...no kinks. Obviously, that might be a little expensive for you...Good Luck! Gary Boothe Cool, Ca. Pietenpol WW Corvair Conversion, mounted Tail done, Fuselage on gear (16 ribs down.) -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douwe Blumberg Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 9:58 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: off topic question <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> As some of you might know, I am a sculptor. I want to propose a piece to a city, but I'm not sure how to build it, so I thought with the knowledge base, I should put it out there. I want to fabricate a vertical helix (spiral, like the DNA strand). It would rise into the sky about twelve to fifteen feet. I want it to be very light and very strong so I thought I could build it from aircraft tubing, cover it with dacron and paint it with latex. So far, so good. However, I'm not sure how to get the tubing bent into that shape. I did one last year where I bent aluminum around a cylindrical from, and though it worked, it was difficult to say the least and I'm not sure we could do with steel, which I'm thinking will be 3/4 to 1". I was wondering if I could have a forging company bend the tubing into circles and then stretch or open them up? I'm sure there is a program out there that would allow a bending machine to just whip these out for me. Any ideas are much appreciated!! Douwe


    Message 20


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    Time: 10:24:48 AM PST US
    From: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: off topic question
    You could do it yourself with a tubing roller. This is one example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO1FOxscqqM Jim Ash -----Original Message----- >From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> >Sent: Jan 25, 2010 12:58 PM >To: pietenpolgroup <pietenpol-list@matronics.com> >Subject: Pietenpol-List: off topic question > > >As some of you might know, I am a sculptor. I want to propose a piece to a city, but I'm not sure how to build it, so I thought with the knowledge base, I should put it out there. > >I want to fabricate a vertical helix (spiral, like the DNA strand). It would rise into the sky about twelve to fifteen feet. I want it to be very light and very strong so I thought I could build it from aircraft tubing, cover it with dacron and paint it with latex. So far, so good. However, I'm not sure how to get the tubing bent into that shape. > >I did one last year where I bent aluminum around a cylindrical from, and though it worked, it was difficult to say the least and I'm not sure we could do with steel, which I'm thinking will be 3/4 to 1". > >I was wondering if I could have a forging company bend the tubing into circles and then stretch or open them up? > >I'm sure there is a program out there that would allow a bending machine to just whip these out for me. > >Any ideas are much appreciated!! > >Douwe > >


    Message 21


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    Time: 10:28:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Brodhead '10
    From: helspersew@aol.com
    Oh good, my circle just shrank to 30 miles. Dan Helsper Poplar Grove, IL. -----Original Message----- From: Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@gmail.com> Sent: Mon, Jan 25, 2010 11:28 am Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead '10 FYI, Skyvector.com says 28.9 nm from C77 to C37.... Ryan do not archive On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 10:41 AM, <helspersew@aol.com> wrote: Guys, Hopefully I will be there with my completed Piet. I still have to fabricat e cockpit combing and apply finish color paint/trim. Then fly-off the 40 hours. But I have a trick up my sleeve on that one maybe. Can I specify a 40 mile circle from my home airport for the 40 hour fly-off? If so I co uld fly it over to Brod even though I may be short of the 40 hours. Anybod y know? Dan Helsper Poplar Grove, IL. " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List p://forums.matronics.com blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ======================== =========== -= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ======================== ===========


    Message 22


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    Time: 10:30:41 AM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: motorcycle links
    Tim, I have "home-made" or "faux" motorcycle chain links. I used AN steel tubing of the appropriate size. BTW - don't pay attention to the length of the bolts pictured.all has been changed. Gary Boothe Cool, Ca. Pietenpol WW Corvair Conversion, mounted Tail done, Fuselage on gear (16 ribs down.) -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Willis Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 10:15 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: motorcycle links <timothywillis@earthlink.net> Guys, I know this should be simple, but... I have looked at the pix of those of you using motorcycle chain links. I got a chain months ago and took the links apart to use as shown in some of the wonderful pix on the site. Predictably the chain steel is wonderful stuff and it is great to get such size, shape, and conformity without gnawing on steel sheet as I often do. Here are the questions: a) if you are using 3/16" pins across the through holes, are you using a sleeve over the pin, to keep the two chain link sides from flopping about? And if so, what is it, fuel line tubing or some such? b) are any of you pressing the chain links back together with the original pressed pins, or using original chain links unassembled? (It looked to me like leaving pieces together left too little room for two eyelet thimbles to fit in, and of course, using a chain link as a link from cable-to-strap requires at least disassembly on the strap end. Tim in central TX


    Message 23


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    Time: 10:33:45 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Firewall tip
    From: helspersew@aol.com
    Installation of the front rudder pedals is a snap too without that firewa ll in place. You got that right. Imagine in your mind me diving head-first into the fro nt pit with my legs hanging out trying to install rudder pedals and puttin g in cotter pins. Not fun!! Dan Helsper Poplar Grove, IL.


    Message 24


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    Time: 10:34:39 AM PST US
    From: Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: off topic question
    Since you plan on using a covering like fabric, could you buy a roll of sof t copper tubing and then pull it out into the spiral you want? I don't know what dia. you can get soft copper tubing, or if it will be string enough. You may be able to solder, not weld, internal braces to help. - I think to buy something in a roll and then stretch it out into shape is a good idea to start with. --- On Mon, 1/25/10, Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> wrote: From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> Subject: Pietenpol-List: off topic question nk.net> As some of you might know, I am a sculptor.- I want to propose a piece to a city, but I'm not sure how to build it, so I thought with the knowledge base, I should put it out there. I want to fabricate a vertical helix (spiral, like the DNA strand).- It w ould rise into the sky about twelve to fifteen feet.- I want it to be ver y light and very strong so I thought I could build it from aircraft tubing, cover it with dacron and paint it with latex. So far, so good.- However, I'm not sure how to get the tubing bent into that shape. I did one last year where I bent aluminum around a cylindrical from, and th ough it worked, it was difficult to say the least and I'm not sure we could do with steel, which I'm thinking will be 3/4 to 1". I was wondering if I could have a forging company bend the tubing into circ les and then stretch or open them up? I'm sure there is a program out there that would allow a bending machine to just whip these out for me. Any ideas are much appreciated!! Douwe le, List Admin.


    Message 25


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    Time: 10:49:20 AM PST US
    From: Tim Willis <timothywillis@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: off topic question
    The guys are right about copper, noted for its malleability and ductility. Malleability is the thing here, much higher than steel tubing. If I were you, and if copper is satisfactory, avoid machines altogether at first. Start with a roll of copper tubing at Home Depot, and then see how you can either use or expand the diameter as you uncoil it by hand. Enlarging the diameter can likely be done using a stationary plywood form of your fabrication. Tightening diameters may take more force. How much do the diameters change in the spiral you conceive? Can you visualize a form like a spiral staircase being useful in your application? I have seen and could build a lathe [in my past life and euipment] to do some of this in production work (from wood lathe components, actually, with a lot of mods) in COPPER, but would not want to do it with steel. You will not want to go there for a "one-off." Safety concerns are paramount in anything requiring turning equipment altered to FORM something. Tim in central TX -----Original Message----- >From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> >Sent: Jan 25, 2010 11:58 AM >To: pietenpolgroup <pietenpol-list@matronics.com> >Subject: Pietenpol-List: off topic question > > >As some of you might know, I am a sculptor. I want to propose a piece to a city, but I'm not sure how to build it, so I thought with the knowledge base, I should put it out there. > >I want to fabricate a vertical helix (spiral, like the DNA strand). It would rise into the sky about twelve to fifteen feet. I want it to be very light and very strong so I thought I could build it from aircraft tubing, cover it with dacron and paint it with latex. So far, so good. However, I'm not sure how to get the tubing bent into that shape. > >I did one last year where I bent aluminum around a cylindrical from, and though it worked, it was difficult to say the least and I'm not sure we could do with steel, which I'm thinking will be 3/4 to 1". > >I was wondering if I could have a forging company bend the tubing into circles and then stretch or open them up? > >I'm sure there is a program out there that would allow a bending machine to just whip these out for me. > >Any ideas are much appreciated!! > >Douwe > >


    Message 26


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    Time: 10:51:35 AM PST US
    From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy@nasa.gov>
    Subject: off topic question
    Douwe, You might want to consult a muffler and exhaust shop because many of them have programmable tube benders that make up zillions of different shapes for different cars from stock diameter tubing. (or so I recall) I wonder if a custom muffler/exhaust shop could program their machine to produce the helix you're looking for out of an appropriate diameter tubing/ material ? Mike C. do not archive


    Message 27


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    Time: 11:02:30 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Brodhead '10
    From: Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@gmail.com>
    A 30 mile circle....that's only slightly larger than Luxembourg...shouldn't be a problem there. :) Ryan do not archive On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 12:25 PM, <helspersew@aol.com> wrote: > Oh good, my circle just shrank to 30 miles. > > Dan Helsper > Poplar Grove, IL. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@gmail.com> > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Sent: Mon, Jan 25, 2010 11:28 am > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead '10 > > FYI, Skyvector.com says 28.9 nm from C77 to C37.... > > Ryan > > do not archive > > On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 10:41 AM, <helspersew@aol.com> wrote: > >> Guys, >> >> Hopefully I will be there with my completed Piet. I still have to >> fabricate cockpit combing and apply finish color paint/trim. Then fly-off >> the 40 hours. But I have a trick up my sleeve on that one maybe. Can I >> specify a 40 mile circle from my home airport for the 40 hour fly-off? If so >> I could fly it over to Brod even though I may be short of the 40 hours. >> Anybody know? >> >> Dan Helsper >> Poplar Grove, IL. >> >> * >> >> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> * >> >> > * > > =================================== > t" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List > =================================== > tp://forums.matronics.com > =================================== > _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > =================================== > * > > * > > * > >


    Message 28


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    Time: 11:20:44 AM PST US
    From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>
    Subject: motorcycle links
    Tim; about all I can offer is what I've seen on John Dilatush's Piet, here: http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/P6210010.JPG Looks to me like he used AN393 clevis pins with washer and cotter on the far side. Not sure if he used tubing spacers or anything else between the two links. Perhaps there are some better pix out there?? Oscar Zuniga Air Camper NX41CC San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net


    Message 29


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    Time: 11:46:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: motorcycle links
    From: "K5YAC" <hangar10@cox.net>
    Those are long links in John's photo. Perhaps he made those by hand? I have some #80 links that I like the pitch on (1"), but they are big (the pins are a hair under 5"16), so I'll probably try to make the #50 work. #50 is perfect for 3/16" pins, but the pitch (pin center to center) is only 5/8". when you subtract 3/16" (3/32" from the center of each pin), you only end up with 7/16" clearance between the pins. Pretty tight for control horns, but so far that seems to be enough for the areas I am currently attempting to use them. It is your choice if you use a washer or not. You can calculate for one or more, or eliminate the need by using the proper length clevis pin or bolt. For stationary items, I really don't see the need for washers. Perhaps they minimize binding on moving items? I kind of doubt that is much of a problem. Good info in this link http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=67158 -------- Mark - working on wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283408#283408


    Message 30


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    Time: 11:54:33 AM PST US
    From: Thomas Bernie <tsbernie@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Control Assembly
    Mine is removable too. Tom Bernie On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:24 PM, Oscar Zuniga wrote: > > > I would recommend permanently installing all > the seat framing members (sticks) as you build > the fuselage. They will help keep everything > square and rigid. For the plywood seats and > backs, I can only suggest what to do based on > my own experience rebuilding the seats and > framing on 41CC after the nose-over, when I > found various things in need of repair. > > The front seat back needs to be permanently > fitted and glued in place during construction, > although once it's permanently fastened you > have to alternate between cockpits when you're > fitting controls, instruments, everything. It's > just that the front seat back is an important > structural element. The seat bottom actually > has two plywood parts of interest... the front > part of the bottom (trapezoidal shape with a > cutout for the control tubing) and the seat > part that the passenger sits on. The trapezoidal > piece needs to be permanently installed before > the controls are fitted into place unless you > plan to make it in two pieces and fit them around > the tubing, which I don't recommend because the > trapezoidal piece is also a fairly important > diaphragm that helps support the passenger's weight. > The seat bottom can be left off indefinitely or > you can do what I did and cut two holes in it > to allow access to the control tubing and rudder > bar underneath. See pix at the bottom,here: > http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/repairs/seat.html > > After the front seat was permanently installed, I > made a separate piece of plywood with the upholstery > on it. That piece is held in place with velcro and > can be removed for inspection of the rudder bar and > controls beneath by viewing through the holes in > the permanent part. > > In the pilot's cockpit, once the seat back goes > in, access is very limited but 41CC has a > hinged cutout that pivots forward, allowing access > back there. Obviously, the hinged part can be > left off until final assembly and there will be > access to the area behind the seat until then. > The seat bottom on 41CC is actually two pieces of > plywood; one fixed, one removable. The piece that > is fixed has large openings cut in it between the > seat framing members so that there is hand access > down into the area under the seat. Like the front, > the piece that is removable is the piece that is > upholstered. > > I think it is very important to be able to sit in > the fuselage as soon as the framing allows you to > put in at least a temporary seat. Sitting in the > fuselage allows you to fit all of the controls, > instruments, windscreens, seatbelts, and everything > else to suit you properly. Not only that, it gives > you the proper perspective out of the cockpit so > you can begin to visualize the attitude and config > uration of the airplane on the ground. It also > offers the greatest psychological boost of almost > any other phase of completion that early in the > project, and will motivate you beyond belief. > Put the seats in as soon as you can. > > Oscar Zuniga > Air Camper NX41CC > San Antonio, TX > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net > > > >


    Message 31


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    Time: 12:03:24 PM PST US
    From: Tim Willis <timothywillis@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Firewall tip
    This may be a re-send, as it appears I sent it first in rich text, html. TPW Regarding firewalls, my project does NOT have a plywood firewall, only the SS one for fire blockage. A couple of builders have told me that they did not have a plywood firewall. I am pretty sure I saw some at Brodhead without wooden firewalls. Some builders have told me that they felt that either the SS firewall properly screwed into the wood fuze edges or certainly the steel motor mount provided all the structure, the diagonal bracing, needed forward, for safe flying. I sure like the ability to keep on removing the SS firewall to access the front rudder bar and links to the rear rudder pedals, even after the plane is finished. I have seen Piets with really heavy thick plywood up there, too, and some fellows who had cut out all but large X- braces with gusset-like center there, to lighten up. I don't recall the plans showing plywood there when I looke this up years ago, and I don't recall a discussion on this. A search will pull a lot of posts on stuff off the mark, I think. What do you think (or know) about the need for a plywood firewall glued in place? Tim in central TX -----Original Message----- From: helspersew@aol.com Sent: Jan 25, 2010 12:30 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Firewall tip Installation of the front rudder pedals is a snap too without that firewall in place. You got that right. Imagine in your mind me diving head-first into the front pit with my legs hanging out trying to install rudder pedals and putting in cotter pins. Not fun!! Dan Helsper Poplar Grove, IL.


    Message 32


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    Time: 12:25:45 PM PST US
    From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy@nasa.gov>
    Subject: good NOAA METAR interactive weather map
    This is pretty useful stuff ! http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/zoa/mwmap3.php?map=usa


    Message 33


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    Time: 12:30:44 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: firewall tip
    From: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
    I took Mikey's advise on this and am glad I did. My firewall would have looked like Swiss cheese given all the holes I drilled and redrilled to get my control cables and wiring positioned correctly. Not to mention the extra slipped disks I would have now from climbing into the front of the fuselage from the top to hook things up. (Which is why I also waited to glue on one side of the fuselage plywood too). Rick On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 10:58 AM, Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation] <michael.d.cuy@nasa.gov> wrote: > In reading about removable seat backs/ bottoms it reminded me of one of > the best moves > I made (or didn=92t make) while building and that was to not glue my fuse lage > 1/8=94 plywood > bulkhead in until the very last step on the fuselage before COVERING. > I mean I did not > glue the firewall in until after the engine was completely rebuilt and > installed and run > on the airframe so that I could properly locate all of the controls like > throttle, carb heat, > gascolator, fuel line, oil pressure and temperature runs, and the all > important smoke oil > supply. Installation of the front rudder pedals is a snap too without > that firewall in place. > > Mike C. > > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > -- Rick Holland Castle Rock, Colorado "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"


    Message 34


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    Time: 12:42:41 PM PST US
    From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy@nasa.gov>
    Subject: glue: do not eat
    I recall Jim Markle sending this photo out confirming that we're all just human and mistakes are easily made. Luckily this mustard glue didn't ruin any sammiches that I know of. Just another reason the guy is endearing. Let's eat !


    Message 35


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    Time: 12:54:08 PM PST US
    From: Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: firewall tip
    I use a lot of the 24" X 36" heavier craft type/school project type carboar d and make templates before cutting the plywood. The same will be done for the firewall. After everything is in place, I'll just mark the holes I need to keep and NOT drill the others into the plywood. - Attached are my seat back templates.


    Message 36


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    Time: 01:14:27 PM PST US
    From: Jim Markle <jim_markle@mindspring.com>
    Subject: Re: glue: do not eat
    Well....if you were to use one of these containers for glue when you glue up that counter top in the RV.....and forget to take the glue container back to the shop....and have a hot dog in the RV later that day....after someone puts the "mustard" with the ketchup and relish containers....and you love mustard on hot dogs.....do I really need to finish this? Tasted kinda bland actually...(I'll leave the "but it sticks to your ribs" jokes to someone else) Hey, someone pass me the Ketchup...it's over by that red paint can..... do not archive -----Original Message----- From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" Sent: Jan 25, 2010 2:39 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: glue: do not eat I recall Jim Markle sending this photo out confirming that we're all just human and mistakes are easily made. Luckily this mustard glue didn't ruin any sammiches that I know of. Just another reason the guy is endearing. Let's eat !


    Message 37


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    Time: 02:22:33 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: glue: do not eat
    From: "Bill Church" <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
    Since Paul Harvey is no longer with us, I'll just let you know that in Jim's fridge, there is another, very similar container that says 'MUSTARD - DO NOT USE TO BOND AIRPLANE PARTS WITH". And now, you know the "rest of the story". Good Day. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283429#283429


    Message 38


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    Time: 02:25:04 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: firewall tip
    From: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
    Did a similar thing using cheap Home Depot 1/4" ply instead of poster board. Rick On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 3:51 PM, Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>wrote: > I use a lot of the 24" X 36" heavier craft type/school project type > carboard and make templates before cutting the plywood. The same will be > done for the firewall. After everything is in place, I'll just mark the > holes I need to keep and NOT drill the others into the plywood. > > Attached are my seat back templates. > -- Rick Holland Castle Rock, Colorado "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"


    Message 39


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    Time: 02:31:50 PM PST US
    From: Jeff Boatright <jboatri@emory.edu>
    Subject: Re: glue: do not eat
    Good to know that it's bland tasting. Next time I need Lomotil, I'll go for this, which must be the ultimate stop-you-upper... > >Well....if you were to use one of these containers for glue when you >glue up that counter top in the RV.....and forget to take the glue >container back to the shop....and have a hot dog in the RV later >that day....after someone puts the "mustard" with the ketchup and >relish containers....and you love mustard on hot dogs.....do I >really need to finish this? > >Tasted kinda bland actually...(I'll leave the "but it sticks to your >ribs" jokes to someone else) > >Hey, someone pass me the Ketchup...it's over by that red paint can..... > >do not archive >


    Message 40


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    Time: 02:49:32 PM PST US
    From: brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com
    Subject: Re: this group is really incredible
    Group, I looked for Jim's "Pietenpol Builder's Guide to the Universe" on Mykitplane.com but could not find it. Does anyone have a link?? Brian SLC-UT -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of K5YAC Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 4:13 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: this group is really incredible Jim did the same for me when I started my project last spring. An ambassador indeed, and definitely a good guy. Bill Church wrote: > almost six years ago, I decided to take the plunge. I ordered my plans, and I made my first "real" post to the List, asking some typical newbie questions. One of the first replies came offlist, from some guy named Jim Markle, who was living in Plano, TX at the time. He forwarded me a copy of his "Pietenpol Builder's Guide to the Universe" (which he has since posted at Mykitplane.com), and offered to send me some Pietenpol photos on a CD. -------- Mark - working on wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282977#282977


    Message 41


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    Time: 02:55:24 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: this group is really incredible
    From: "Bill Church" <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
    It's in the "Files" section http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/filesList2.cfm?AlbumID=40 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283435#283435


    Message 42


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    Time: 03:31:35 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: off topic question
    From: "Bill Church" <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
    Douwe, You don't say what diameter helix you're talking about, but if you can find a local shop that has a tube roller, they should be able to roll it into the spiral you want. Stretching a coil of rolled aircraft tubing is likely a lot more difficult than you might expect - you'd be better off getting the tube rolled the way you want it to be. You could also be limited by the length that you can buy the tubing in (likely 20 ft max). Professional tube rolling shops use a machine similar (in concept) to that Harbor Freight machine shown in the Youtube video, except that they are driven by motors and hydraulic rams to adjust the radius. The more sophisticated machines are programmable, and can change the diameter as the piece is rolled. The shop that rolls the tube would need to have dies to match the diameter of tubing that you are using. Bill C. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283437#283437


    Message 43


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    Time: 03:51:38 PM PST US
    From: Ben Charvet <bcharvet@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: firewall tip
    Wish I'd heard this tip about 4 years ago! Ben Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation] wrote: > In reading about removable seat backs/ bottoms it reminded me of one > of the best moves > I made (or didnt make) while building and that was to not glue my > fuselage 1/8 plywood > bulkhead in until the very last step on the fuselage before COVERING. > I mean I did not > glue the firewall in until after the engine was completely rebuilt and > installed and run > on the airframe so that I could properly locate all of the controls > like throttle, carb heat, > gascolator, fuel line, oil pressure and temperature runs, and the all > important smoke oil > supply. Installation of the front rudder pedals is a snap too without > that firewall in place. > Mike C. > * > > > *


    Message 44


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    Time: 11:11:48 PM PST US
    From: "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: off topic question
    And check out this one with the extra roller for spiraling. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYVEHUYEqE0&feature=related > > You could do it yourself with a tubing roller. This is one example: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO1FOxscqqM > > Jim Ash


    Message 45


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    Time: 11:28:55 PM PST US
    From: "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: motorcycle links
    I don't have links on my control horns. I have turnbuckles with a fork end pinned directly to the horn. I do, however, have links joining the tail cable brace wires. I used clevis pins instead of bolts. Since you're not pulling the assembly up tight, as in bolting a prop to a hub, there's no need for a nut. This makes the tail a teeny bit lighter as well. I threw in a couple of my just completed fuel system pics just for the heck of it. Clif > Guys, I know this should be simple, but... > Here are the questions: > > a) if you are using 3/16" pins across the through holes, are you using a > sleeve over the pin, to keep the two chain link sides from flopping about? > And if so, what is it, fuel line tubing or some such? > > > Tim in central TX




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