Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:09 AM - Re: Re: New builder already needs help (Clif Dawson)
2. 04:43 AM - Re: 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's method (Jack)
3. 05:11 AM - Re: 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's method (bryan green)
4. 05:41 AM - Re: Re: 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's method (Jack)
5. 06:35 AM - Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces (gliderx5@comcast.net)
6. 06:50 AM - Re: Re: 1/2" web (Gene Rambo)
7. 08:06 AM - Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces (Jim Ash)
8. 09:02 AM - Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces (David Paule)
9. 09:32 AM - Re: Re: 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's method (bryan green)
10. 10:03 AM - Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces (Skip Gadd)
11. 12:47 PM - Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces (Ben Charvet)
12. 03:52 PM - Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces (Jack Phillips)
13. 04:38 PM - Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces (Don Emch)
14. 04:45 PM - Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces (Rick Holland)
15. 04:59 PM - Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces (helspersew@aol.com)
16. 05:53 PM - Piet search (Lawrence Williams)
17. 05:54 PM - V speeds (Jeff Boatright)
18. 06:59 PM - OT - TGWP (Wayne Bressler)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: New builder already needs help |
What was the orientation of the web plywood grain?
The Piet spar is 4 3/4" wide. What you are going to remove
is 3 1/2" of that 1/4" deep on both sides. The length of the
routed areas will be close to 12' on each side of the
fuselage. There are two spars, one front, one rear, so eight
of these routed areas. This comes to 1008 cubic inches.
There are 1728 cubic inches in a cubic foot. One cubic ft
of spruce weighs 31 lb. This all means that there will be
eighteen pounds of wood removed. Each of us then has
to ask, " Is this important to me?"
The only way to be experimentaly sure is to weight the
board BEFORE routing and again after, not trying to
collect what dust and chips you can find on the floor.
Your router sprays stuff all over the shop grasshopper. :-)
Clif
"If we love flying so much why are we in a hurry to get there?"
> When I worked for Steen Aero, the company airplane (Hale Wallace's last
> Skybolt, N3HW) had routed spars. While it's never had problems, Hale and
> others agreed (after the fact) that it was a fundamental mistake to do
> this.
> In the end you only save a very small amount of weight (I think it was
> under
> 2 lbs, even for a biplane), and it can (potentially) significantly reduce
> the rigidity of the spars. You also risk messing up while doing the
> routing
> process and converting the piece to very expensive scrap wood!! Obviously
> it's worked on many aircraft over the decades, but really, why risk it for
> such a miniscule advantage and high potential cost?
>
> I'd say that if you really want the beefiness of 1" spars but the lighter
> weight of 3/4" spars, you'd be better off making your spars 7/8" thick,
> without routing them. Or not worrying about it and going with the 1"...
> seems to me that the spar is one of those things where a little extra
> strength really isn't a bad thing at all, and the weight difference would
> be
> better made up on other things. On my project, I believe I'll probably end
> up with laminated spars, as this reduces the chances of a hidden defect
> buried in the wood, you can use shorter wood pieces, they weight the same,
> they fail progressively rather than completely at once (hopefully that
> will
> never be an issue!) and they are more warp-resistant. Strength is at least
> as strong as a solid spar, and with the tests from the Skybolt laminated
> spars, it was found they were usually about 25% stronger than the solid
> versions.
>
> Mike Whaley
> MerlinFAC@cfl.rr.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft@gmail.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 12:31 PM
> Subject: [piet] Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New builder already needs help
>
>
>>
>> Either size works fine. I think someone on this group who routed his
>> 1" spars collected and weighted the shavings he routed out to see how
>> much weight he saved, came to less than a pound I believe. Can be
>> found in the archives.
>>
>> rick
>>
>> On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 12:00 PM, Bill Church <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
> <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
>> >
>> > Myron,
>> >
>> > If you purchased the full set of Pietenpol plans (including the
> three-piece wing plan), you will see both versions of the spar (1" thick,
> and 3/4" thick). The original design was 1" thick, with routed sections to
> reduce weight. This was the spar drawn in the FGM drawings as well as in
> the
> 1933/34 Improved Air Camper drawings. Later, BHP switched to a 3/4" thick
> spar, with NO routed sections. The 3/4" spar is only shown in the drawing
> for the three-piece wing. The 3/4" non-routed spar has approximately 90%
> the
> strength of the routed 1" spar (in simple bending). Both have been proven
> to
> be more than adequate in strength.
>> > Which one to use is strictly up to you.
>> > Your ribs can be built to accommodate the 1" spar, and then, later, if
> you decide to use 3/4" spars, just add 1/2" wide, 1/8" plywood spacer
> shims
> at each rib location. Or, if you know for certain that you want to use the
> 3/4" spar, build your ribs to suit, and eliminate the little bit of extra
> weight and work of the shims.
>> >
>> > Bill C.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290119#290119
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Rick Holland
>> Castle Rock, Colorado
>>
>> "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
11:33:00
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Subject: | 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's method |
This is how I did it. An engineering friend thought the strength would be
fine. He also thought the wider cap on top would help because caps usually
break in compression first. I'm not an engineer! More pictures on my site
Jack
www.textors.com
DSM
Myron, Group----here is how I did my spar and how I would do it again
proposed in the attached sketch.
I did a cost analysis of both methods and it was pretty much a wash as I
recall with the proposed method
being way less work by not having to route out U-channels in those upper and
lower 'caps'.
Mike C.
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's method |
Hi Jack, what did you do at each rib location?
Bryan Green
Elgin SC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack" <jack@textors.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 7:24 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's method
> This is how I did it. An engineering friend thought the strength would be
> fine. He also thought the wider cap on top would help because caps
> usually
> break in compression first. I'm not an engineer! More pictures on my
> site
> Jack
> www.textors.com
> DSM
>
> Myron, Group----here is how I did my spar and how I would do it again
> proposed in the attached sketch.
>
> I did a cost analysis of both methods and it was pretty much a wash as I
> recall with the proposed method
> being way less work by not having to route out U-channels in those upper
> and
> lower 'caps'.
>
> Mike C.
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's method |
Bryan,
Not sure what your mean...I glued the ribs at the caps and didn't fill
behind uprights.
Jack
Hi Jack, what did you do at each rib location?
Bryan Green
Elgin SC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack" <jack@textors.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 7:24 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's method
> This is how I did it. An engineering friend thought the strength would be
> fine. He also thought the wider cap on top would help because caps
> usually
> break in compression first. I'm not an engineer! More pictures on my
> site
> Jack
> www.textors.com
> DSM
>
> Myron, Group----here is how I did my spar and how I would do it again
> proposed in the attached sketch.
>
> I did a cost analysis of both methods and it was pretty much a wash as I
> recall with the proposed method
> being way less work by not having to route out U-channels in those upper
> and
> lower 'caps'.
>
> Mike C.
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces |
I'm starting to cover the Piet. I'm using light weight cloth and Stewart Systems
ecobond. This glue is great. Easy to use and no bad odor. I'm at the point now
where I need to rib stitch the tail surfaces, but I'm wondering if this is
really needed. The fabric is glued to the 1/2 inch wide tail ribs, and while there
will be some pulling of the fabric on the low pressure side of the surfaces,
it will not be anything close to low pressure on the top of the wing. So,
have any of you guys not stitched your tail surfaces? And if so, do you have any
good or bad results after flying?
Thanks
Malcolm Morrison
Message 6
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About a year ago when I priced it from both Wicks and Aircraft Spruce,
the cost of the 1/2" center with four 1" x 1/4" capstrips was more than
the cost of the solid spars, so I went solid and routed. Of course, the
plywood center web may be cheaper, I did not price that. One question I
could never get a good answer to is how/where the proper splices would
be (building a one-piece wing). I would think that they could be
anywhere as long as they were staggered. Of course, this would not be a
problem if building a 3-piece where all of the components could be full
length without splices. I like the built-up spars, the examples on
here are beautiful, but cheaper and more original won out.
Unfortunately, I did not weigh before and after routing, but I can tell
you that the weight saving is substantial, not miniscule as some on here
have suggested. Pietenpol says 25% and I think that is probably right.
If it is wrong, it is low.
Gene
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces |
These surfaces are in the propwash and subject to piles of vibration. I'm not familiar
with the Stewart System (I've done Polyfiber), but I'd be inclined to
think a glue joint would be naturally better in compression and shear than in
tension (I don't really know if this is a valid assumption - Does anybody here
have experience with analysis of the strengths of adhesives?). Stitching is primarily
about tension.
While we're on this, I'm going to presume the Stewart System requires a closer
pitch of stitching on the inner portions of the wing subject to propwash.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
From: gliderx5@comcast.net
Sent: Mar 13, 2010 9:19 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces
I'm starting to cover the Piet. I'm using light weight cloth and Stewart Systems
ecobond. This glue is great. Easy to use and no bad odor. I'm at the point
now where I need to rib stitch the tail surfaces, but I'm wondering if this
is really needed. The fabric is glued to the 1/2 inch wide tail ribs, and while
there will be some pulling of the fabric on the low pressure side of the surfaces,
it will not be anything close to low pressure on the top of the wing.
So, have any of you guys not stitched your tail surfaces? And if so, do you
have any good or bad results after flying?
Thanks
Malcolm Morrison
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces |
Bingo!
Strength in tension is often less if the tension is in "peel," which it
is for fabric covering.
David Paule
>
> These surfaces are in the propwash and subject to piles of vibration.
I'm not familiar with the Stewart System (I've done Polyfiber), but I'd
be inclined to think a glue joint would be naturally better in
compression and shear than in tension (I don't really know if this is a
valid assumption - Does anybody here have experience with analysis of
the strengths of adhesives?). Stitching is primarily about tension.
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's method |
Thats what I wanted to know Jack thanks.
do not archive
Bryan Green
Elgin SC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack" <jack@textors.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 8:37 AM
Subject: RE: Re: Pietenpol-List: 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's
method
> Bryan,
> Not sure what your mean...I glued the ribs at the caps and didn't fill
> behind uprights.
> Jack
>
>
>
> Hi Jack, what did you do at each rib location?
> Bryan Green
> Elgin SC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jack" <jack@textors.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 7:24 AM
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: 1/2" web idea. Spar options--one man's method
>
>
>> This is how I did it. An engineering friend thought the strength would
>> be
>> fine. He also thought the wider cap on top would help because caps
>> usually
>> break in compression first. I'm not an engineer! More pictures on my
>> site
>> Jack
>> www.textors.com
>> DSM
>>
>> Myron, Group----here is how I did my spar and how I would do it again
>> proposed in the attached sketch.
>>
>> I did a cost analysis of both methods and it was pretty much a wash as I
>> recall with the proposed method
>> being way less work by not having to route out U-channels in those upper
>> and
>> lower 'caps'.
>>
>> Mike C.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces |
Malcolm,
Rib stitching is not only about holding the fabric to the ribs, but also about
holding the top cap strip together with the bottom cap strip. This is very important
when talking about a truss built rib. Not really sure about the tail surfaces,
but I will be stitching mine.
Skip
----- Original Message -----
From:
Sent: 3/13/2010 9:37:21 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces
I'm starting to cover the Piet. I'm using light weight cloth and Stewart Systems
ecobond. This glue is great. Easy to use and no bad odor. I'm at the point
now where I need to rib stitch the tail surfaces, but I'm wondering if this
is really needed. The fabric is glued to the 1/2 inch wide tail ribs, and while
there will be some pulling of the fabric on the low pressure side of the surfaces,
it will not be anything close to low pressure on the top of the wing.
So, have any of you guys not stitched your tail surfaces? And if so, do you
have any good or bad results after flying?
Thanks
Malcolm Morrison
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces |
I used Stewart System with the lightweight cloth, and I rib stitched the
tail surfaces, without gluing the fabric to the ribs. It really doesn't
take very long. After hearing horror stories about how tedious
rib-stitching was, I found it to be enjoyable. I don't think rib
stitching the tail surfaces would take more than a few hours. Might
make the job look more professional to your inspector too. Just my $.02
Ben Charvet
Flyin off the time!
On 3/13/2010 9:19 AM, gliderx5@comcast.net wrote:
> I'm starting to cover the Piet. I'm using light weight cloth and
> Stewart Systems ecobond. This glue is great. Easy to use and no bad
> odor. I'm at the point now where I need to rib stitch the tail
> surfaces, but I'm wondering if this is really needed. The fabric is
> glued to the 1/2 inch wide tail ribs, and while there will be some
> pulling of the fabric on the low pressure side of the surfaces, it
> will not be anything close to low pressure on the top of the wing.
> So, have any of you guys not stitched your tail surfaces? And if so,
> do you have any good or bad results after flying?
>
> Thanks
> Malcolm Morrison
> *
>
>
> *
Message 12
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Subject: | Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces |
I stitched mine. Good practice for doing the wings.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gliderx5@comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 9:20 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces
I'm starting to cover the Piet. I'm using light weight cloth and Stewart
Systems ecobond. This glue is great. Easy to use and no bad odor. I'm at
the point now where I need to rib stitch the tail surfaces, but I'm
wondering if this is really needed. The fabric is glued to the 1/2 inch
wide tail ribs, and while there will be some pulling of the fabric on the
low pressure side of the surfaces, it will not be anything close to low
pressure on the top of the wing. So, have any of you guys not stitched your
tail surfaces? And if so, do you have any good or bad results after flying?
Thanks
Malcolm Morrison
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces |
Good insurance to stitch them. That tail surface fabric does drum a lot. Only
a few hours worth of work.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290233#290233
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces |
Ditto
rick
On Sat, Mar 13, 2010 at 3:44 PM, Ben Charvet <bcharvet@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> I used Stewart System with the lightweight cloth, and I rib stitched the
> tail surfaces, without gluing the fabric to the ribs. It really doesn't
> take very long. After hearing horror stories about how tedious
> rib-stitching was, I found it to be enjoyable. I don't think rib stitching
> the tail surfaces would take more than a few hours. Might make the job look
> more professional to your inspector too. Just my $.02
>
> Ben Charvet
> Flyin off the time!
>
>
> On 3/13/2010 9:19 AM, gliderx5@comcast.net wrote:
>
> I'm starting to cover the Piet. I'm using light weight cloth and Stewart
> Systems ecobond. This glue is great. Easy to use and no bad odor. I'm at
> the point now where I need to rib stitch the tail surfaces, but I'm
> wondering if this is really needed. The fabric is glued to the 1/2 inch
> wide tail ribs, and while there will be some pulling of the fabric on the
> low pressure side of the surfaces, it will not be anything close to low
> pressure on the top of the wing. So, have any of you guys not stitched your
> tail surfaces? And if so, do you have any good or bad results after flying?
>
> Thanks
> Malcolm Morrison
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces |
Rib stitching is actually fun, after you learn it...........very therapeut
ic, I enjoyed it immensely. Open the hangar doors.........let the summer
breezes waft through........turn on the radio..........pop open a beer...
........Ahhhhhhhh, .....the good life..........not too many beers though,
otherwise you may step on the cord, and tear your fabric. (not that I kno
w this from experience, someone told me) :O)
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sat, Mar 13, 2010 5:19 pm
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces
I stitched mine. Good practice for doing the wings.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-li
st-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gliderx5@comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 9:20 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib Stitching Tail Surfaces
I'm starting to cover the Piet. I'm using light weight cloth and Stewart
Systems ecobond. This glue is great. Easy to use and no bad odor. I'm
at the point now where I need to rib stitch the tail surfaces, but I'm wo
ndering if this is really needed. The fabric is glued to the 1/2 inch wid
e tail ribs, and while there will be some pulling of the fabric on the low
pressure side of the surfaces, it will not be anything close to low press
ure on the top of the wing. So, have any of you guys not stitched your ta
il surfaces? And if so, do you have any good or bad results after flying?
Thanks
Malcolm Morrison
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Message 16
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Idle curiousity on a cool and windy eve.
-
I had a good friend named John Ficklin-who built and finished an Air Camp
er in northern FL around 2000-2002. Unfortunately he-had to sell-it pre
tty quickly after it's completion and I was wondering if anyone on the list
has it or knows where it might be.
-
Larry W.=0A=0A=0A
Message 17
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Just because it's too windy and rainy to fly today, I'm goint to stir the pot:
What are you using for Vso, Vx, Vy, Vno, Vne, Vref, Va, etc. and what
are your numbers based on?
Message 18
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A little paint? We are truly an infected bunch; those who love
aviation.
www.flyingantiqueairplanes.blogspot.com/2009/10/wheres-waldo.html
This is from Don Parson's blog chronicaling the restoration of a Cub,
and other antique airplane exploits. An interesting site to waste an
hour or so.
Wayne Bressler Jr.
Taildraggers, Inc.
taildraggersinc.com
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