Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:50 AM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Dan Yocum)
2. 05:52 AM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Dan Yocum)
3. 06:02 AM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Dan Yocum)
4. 06:02 AM - Re: OT :: Markle Airport (Jim Markle)
5. 06:06 AM - Re: Re: lower radiator on Scout (Doug Dever)
6. 06:27 AM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Ryan Mueller)
7. 06:49 AM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Jeff Boatright)
8. 07:10 AM - Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout (Jack)
9. 07:33 AM - Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout (Jeff Boatright)
10. 07:39 AM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Ryan Mueller)
11. 01:07 PM - Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout (Jack Phillips)
12. 01:40 PM - Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout (Ben Charvet)
13. 01:52 PM - Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout (Jeff Boatright)
14. 02:30 PM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Ben Charvet)
15. 03:02 PM - Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout (Lagowski Morrow)
16. 03:50 PM - Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout (Jerry Dotson)
17. 04:25 PM - Re: Cork Floats (Rick Holland)
18. 05:08 PM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Graham Hansen)
19. 05:09 PM - Re: Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout (Jack)
20. 06:13 PM - Re: Cork Floats (H RULE)
21. 06:26 PM - Re: Cork Floats (Lagowski Morrow)
22. 07:24 PM - Re: Cork Floats (H RULE)
23. 07:34 PM - Re: Cork Floats (Jeff Boatright)
24. 08:43 PM - Re: Getting in the Front Seat with the Dreaded Cross Wires (kevinpurtee)
25. 08:46 PM - Re: Cork Floats (kevinpurtee)
26. 08:53 PM - Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout (kevinpurtee)
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| Subject: | Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
I disagree, Jeff, for the following reason: The tach cable is not very
flexible and will have to run down one side or the other (if you want a
usable front cockpit). I would mount the tach as close to the outboard edge
of the panel as possible to ease the problems routing the cable - and it
will still be a problem.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Boatright
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout
Not that you asked, but you might consider moving the tach to where
the ASI is, moving the ASI to where the altimeter is, and moving the
altimeter to where the tach is. This keeps engine instruments
clustered, moves tach up to where it's easier to see (much more
important than altimeter, IMO, especially during early flight
testing), and keeps ASI up high and in front of you, too.
>Here is the latest attempt http://textors.com/IMG_4587_640x427.jpg.
Compass
>will be in center section, GPS on top of cowl behind windscreen. Faint
>diagonal lines depict aileron cables behind panel. Brown boxes below show
>breakers (or fuses), switches, carb heat and mixture. I've shock mounted
the
>entire panel.
>Jack
>www.textors.com
>DSM
--
---
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
I couldn't find any way to make the tach cable work without installing a
right angle drive adapter to the tach, and then it worked better to put
the tach closer to the center. Those right angle drives aren't cheap
either.
Ben
On 7/5/2010 4:06 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips"<pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
>
> I disagree, Jeff, for the following reason: The tach cable is not very
> flexible and will have to run down one side or the other (if you want a
> usable front cockpit). I would mount the tach as close to the outboard edge
> of the panel as possible to ease the problems routing the cable - and it
> will still be a problem.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Boatright
> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 10:27 AM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jeff Boatright<jboatri@emory.edu>
>
> Not that you asked, but you might consider moving the tach to where
> the ASI is, moving the ASI to where the altimeter is, and moving the
> altimeter to where the tach is. This keeps engine instruments
> clustered, moves tach up to where it's easier to see (much more
> important than altimeter, IMO, especially during early flight
> testing), and keeps ASI up high and in front of you, too.
>
>
>
>> Here is the latest attempt http://textors.com/IMG_4587_640x427.jpg.
>>
> Compass
>
>> will be in center section, GPS on top of cowl behind windscreen. Faint
>> diagonal lines depict aileron cables behind panel. Brown boxes below show
>> breakers (or fuses), switches, carb heat and mixture. I've shock mounted
>>
> the
>
>> entire panel.
>> Jack
>> www.textors.com
>> DSM
>>
>
> --
> ---
>
> Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
> Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
> Emory University School of Medicine
> Editor-in-Chief
> Molecular Vision
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
Good point, but we have to use a right-angle adapter anyway, so
didn't make much difference to us (well, er, to the guy who built it
33 years ago).
Regardless, to the degree that I look at the instruments, slip
indicator is first, ASI second, and tach is third in frequency of
use. I am sure that it is different for people with differing levels
of experience.
>
>I disagree, Jeff, for the following reason: The tach cable is not very
>flexible and will have to run down one side or the other (if you want a
>usable front cockpit). I would mount the tach as close to the outboard edge
>of the panel as possible to ease the problems routing the cable - and it
>will still be a problem.
>
>Jack Phillips
>NX899JP
>Raleigh, NC
>
>--
--
---
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
I've attached two scans from the Continental overhaul manual. I tried
e-mailing the whole PDF file, but it was too large. Page 5 shows the
oil flow through the tappet. Its hard to see the end socket in this
view, but it is what the pushrod rests against. On page 71 there is a
full breakdown, and the end socket is part #239.
A simple way to tell if this is your problem would be to take that
cylinder to TDC, remove the valve cover for the new cylinder, and check
your valve rocker clearances against the specs. It doesn't really have
anything to do with the overhaul of the cylinder. I rebuilt my motor in
Jan/Feb this year, and had to pull a cylinder off. When I pulled the
pushrod, one of the caps (part 239 on page 71) came out of the lifter
body and was laying in the pushrod tube. It was a real bear to get back
in place, but it is possible with patience.
I could be way off base on this, but am just trying to figure out any
way you could lose oil pressure after doing what you did. I'm not sure
how much oil pressure you would lose if this was the problem, but it
only requires pulling the valve cover to investigate.
Ben Charvet
Hoping to see your Piet at Brodhead
On 7/5/2010 8:48 AM, Dan Yocum wrote:
>
> Hi Ben,
>
> The shop shipped me back an entire assembled cylinder unit.
> Everything was put back together by them and yellow tagged. They're a
> reputable shop, so I would certainly hope all the clearances are
> within specs.
>
> I'm looking at the parts list in the overhaul manual and I'm not
> seeing the pushrod socket you're referring to. Do you have a parts
> number I should be looking at?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
> On 07/04/2010 09:49 AM, Ben Charvet wrote:
>>
>> Ok, this is just a thought, but it it possible that when you pulled the
>> cylinder and the pushrods that one of the pushrod sockets came out of
>> the lifter and is sitting sideways in the assembly. Are your valve
>> clearances at specification? I can't think of any other reason to lose
>> oil pressure if you didn't remove your connecting rod too. I know that I
>> had a similar problem removing a cylinder before. It is possible to get
>> the pushrod socket back into the lifter body without removing the
>> cylinder again, but it takes some doing. Let us know what you find. I
>> just rebuilt my A-65, and had 40 PSI prior to the rebuild and a solid 35
>> PSI afterwards, but it holds 35 PSI at all speeds and temps.
>>
>> Ben
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
Another approach, which I used, was an electric tach. This avoided cable
bend and right angle drive issues.--Jim lagowski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 4:06 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout
> <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
>
> I disagree, Jeff, for the following reason: The tach cable is not very
> flexible and will have to run down one side or the other (if you want a
> usable front cockpit). I would mount the tach as close to the outboard
> edge
> of the panel as possible to ease the problems routing the cable - and it
> will still be a problem.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Boatright
> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 10:27 AM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout
>
>
> Not that you asked, but you might consider moving the tach to where
> the ASI is, moving the ASI to where the altimeter is, and moving the
> altimeter to where the tach is. This keeps engine instruments
> clustered, moves tach up to where it's easier to see (much more
> important than altimeter, IMO, especially during early flight
> testing), and keeps ASI up high and in front of you, too.
>
>
>>Here is the latest attempt http://textors.com/IMG_4587_640x427.jpg.
> Compass
>>will be in center section, GPS on top of cowl behind windscreen. Faint
>>diagonal lines depict aileron cables behind panel. Brown boxes below show
>>breakers (or fuses), switches, carb heat and mixture. I've shock mounted
> the
>>entire panel.
>>Jack
>>www.textors.com
>>DSM
>
>
> --
> ---
>
> Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
> Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
> Emory University School of Medicine
> Editor-in-Chief
> Molecular Vision
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
Here is my panel but it has not been flown. The CHT had to be moved to the left
side because it gave the vertical compass a fit.
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
Ribs and tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303847#303847
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a26_159.jpg
Message 17
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Am trying a mid-70s Mustang fuel tank float on mine.
rick
On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote:
> I have collected almost as many articles on mechanical fuel gauges as I
> have on wiring diagrams!! One of the common topics was what kind of float
to
> use. Most have probable seen the one that went from Axe deodorant cans to
> WD40 cans.
>
>
> No doubt, all the ideas work, but I have been stuck on good, old-fashione
d
> cork=85
>
>
> This was an easy internet search, and the cork is very cheap
> (unfortunately, the shipping is not!).
>
>
> *
> http://www.corkstore.com/compass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.ch
eckout&action=ok&time=13:50:04&quicksearch
> *
>
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, Ca.
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> (20 ribs down=85)
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Another possible cause of oil pressure loss is a piece of rag partially, or
totally, blocking off the lower end of the pickup tube in the tank. A friend
told me he bought a used Continental A65 for his new Pietenpol and, after
installing it, ran it. Initially he had oil pressure, but then the pressure
dropped to zero. After checking everything they could think of they
eventually removed the oil sump/tank and found a cleaning cloth had been
sucked up against the pickup tube, thereby blocking it.
While a cylinder is off an engine the crankcase opening is sometimes closed
using rags. Possibly a piece of this material could remain inside the engine
and drop into the oil sump/tank.
Just a possibility that bears checking out. I do hope that something simple
like this is the cause of your problem and that nothing serious is wrong
with your engine. Good luck on this.
Cheers,
Graham Hansen Pietenpol CF-AUN in Alberta, Canada
Message 19
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| Subject: | Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
Thanks to all again. When I thought everything was considered JP brings up
the tach cable, thanks! Maybe an electronic is the answer???
Jack
DSM
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack
Phillips
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 3:06 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout
<pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
I disagree, Jeff, for the following reason: The tach cable is not very
flexible and will have to run down one side or the other (if you want a
usable front cockpit). I would mount the tach as close to the outboard edge
of the panel as possible to ease the problems routing the cable - and it
will still be a problem.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Boatright
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout
Not that you asked, but you might consider moving the tach to where
the ASI is, moving the ASI to where the altimeter is, and moving the
altimeter to where the tach is. This keeps engine instruments
clustered, moves tach up to where it's easier to see (much more
important than altimeter, IMO, especially during early flight
testing), and keeps ASI up high and in front of you, too.
>Here is the latest attempt http://textors.com/IMG_4587_640x427.jpg.
Compass
>will be in center section, GPS on top of cowl behind windscreen. Faint
>diagonal lines depict aileron cables behind panel. Brown boxes below show
>breakers (or fuses), switches, carb heat and mixture. I've shock mounted
the
>entire panel.
>Jack
>www.textors.com
>DSM
--
---
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
Message 20
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|
I went to my local wine making store and found nice size corks which I put
2 of them back to back in other words thick ends to the middle and then cov
ered them in anything which is impervious to fuel,pushed the metal wire thr
ough them and bent it over once through=C2-and it works just fine.=0A=0AW
e had a discussion on here a few months back about what is good to cover th
em with to protect against the gas and I can't remember what that was now b
ut I'm sure somebody out there knows.With the ethonol in the gas now it's h
ard to know what works and what doesn't anymore.=0A=0A=0A=0A_______________
_________________=0AFrom: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>=0ATo: pietenpol
-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Mon, July 5, 2010 7:23:18 PM=0ASubject: Re: Pie
tenpol-List: Cork Floats=0A=0AAm trying a mid-70s Mustang fuel tank float o
n mine.=0A=0Arick=0A=0A=0AOn Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Gary Boothe <gbo
othe5@comcast.net> wrote:=0A=0AI have collected almost as many articles on
mechanical fuel gauges as I have on wiring diagrams!! One of the common top
ics was what kind of float to use. Most have probable seen the one that wen
t from Axe deodorant cans to WD40 cans. =0A>=C2-=0A>No doubt, all the ide
as work, but I have been stuck on good, old-fashioned cork=0A>=C2
-=0A>This was an easy internet search, and the cork is very cheap (unfort
unately, the shipping is not!). =0A>=C2-=0A>http://www.corkstore.com/comp
ass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.checkout&action=ok&time=13:50
:04&quicksearch= =C2-=C2-=0A>=C2-=0A>Gary Boothe =0A>Cool, Ca. =0A>
Pietenpol =0A>WW Corvair Conversion, mounted =0A>Tail done,=C2-Fuselage
=C2-on gear =0A>(20 ribs down) =0A>=C2-=0A>=0A>=0A>" target=
"_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List=0A>tp://forums.m
atronics.com=0A>_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A>=0A>=0A=0A
=0A-- =0ARick Holland=0ACastle Rock, Colorado=0A=0A"Logic is a wreath of pr
etty flowers, that smell bad" =0A
Message 21
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|
I did the same thing with 2 corks and thin stainless steel welding rod.
I bent the top over after going thru a brazed in tube in the cap. The
bend was located so that when it bottoms on the cap I still have ~1 hour
of flying left @ 4 gallons /hr with my 65 Continental. Works fine. I
epoxied the cork to seal it. Now on its 3rd year with no apparent
deterioration. Gets checked every time I add fuel.--Jim lagowski
----- Original Message -----
From: H RULE
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
I went to my local wine making store and found nice size corks which I
put 2 of them back to back in other words thick ends to the middle and
then covered them in anything which is impervious to fuel,pushed the
metal wire through them and bent it over once through and it works just
fine.
We had a discussion on here a few months back about what is good to
cover them with to protect against the gas and I can't remember what
that was now but I'm sure somebody out there knows.With the ethonol in
the gas now it's hard to know what works and what doesn't anymore.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 7:23:18 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
Am trying a mid-70s Mustang fuel tank float on mine.
rick
On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net>
wrote:
I have collected almost as many articles on mechanical fuel gauges
as I have on wiring diagrams!! One of the common topics was what kind of
float to use. Most have probable seen the one that went from Axe
deodorant cans to WD40 cans.
No doubt, all the ideas work, but I have been stuck on good,
old-fashioned cork
This was an easy internet search, and the cork is very cheap
(unfortunately, the shipping is not!).
http://www.corkstore.com/compass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.ch
eckout&action=ok&time=13:50:04&quicksearch=
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down)
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 22
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What kind of epoxy did you use?=0Ado not archive=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____________
____________________=0AFrom: Lagowski Morrow <jimdeb@charter.net>=0ATo: pie
tenpol-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Mon, July 5, 2010 9:25:05 PM=0ASubject: R
e: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats=0A=0A=EF=BB =0AI did the same thing with
2 corks and thin stainless steel welding rod. I bent the top over after goi
ng thru a brazed in tube in the cap. The bend was located so that when it b
ottoms on the cap I still have ~1 hour of flying left @ 4 gallons /hr with
my 65 Continental. Works fine. I epoxied the cork to seal it. Now on its 3r
d year with no apparent deterioration. Gets checked every time I add fuel.-
-Jim lagowski=0A----- Original Message ----- =0A>From: H RULE =0A>To: piete
npol-list@matronics.com =0A>Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:12 PM=0A>Subject:
Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats=0A>=0A>=0A>I went to my local wine making
store and found nice size corks which I put 2 of them back to back in other
words thick ends to the middle and then covered them in anything which is
impervious to fuel,pushed the metal wire through them and bent it over once
through=C2-and it works just fine.=0A>=0A>We had a discussion on here a
few months back about what is good to cover them with to protect against th
e gas and I can't remember what that was now but I'm sure somebody out ther
e knows.With the ethonol in the gas now it's hard to know what works and wh
at doesn't anymore.=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A________________________________=0AFrom:
Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>=0A>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com=0A>Se
nt: Mon, July 5, 2010 7:23:18 PM=0A>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Float
s=0A>=0A>Am trying a mid-70s Mustang fuel tank float on mine.=0A>=0A>rick
=0A>=0A>=0A>On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.
net> wrote:=0A>=0A>I have collected almost as many articles on mechanical f
uel gauges as I have on wiring diagrams!! One of the common topics was what
kind of float to use. Most have probable seen the one that went from Axe d
eodorant cans to WD40 cans. =0A>>=C2-=0A>>No doubt, all the ideas work, b
ut I have been stuck on good, old-fashioned cork=0A>>=C2-=0A>>Th
is was an easy internet search, and the cork is very cheap (unfortunately,
the shipping is not!). =0A>>=C2-=0A>>http://www.corkstore.com/compass/ser
vlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.checkout&action=ok&time=13:50:04&qui
cksearch= =C2-=C2-=0A>>=C2-=0A>>Gary Boothe =0A>>Cool, Ca. =0A>>Pie
tenpol =0A>>WW Corvair Conversion, mounted =0A>>Tail done,=C2-Fuselage=C2
-on gear =0A>>(20 ribs down) =0A>>=C2-=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>" target
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List=0A>>tp://foru
ms.matronics.com=0A>>_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A>>=0A>
>=0A>=0A>=0A>-- =0A>Rick Holland=0A>Castle Rock, Colorado=0A>=0A>"Logic is
a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad" =0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>href="http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
tor?Pietenpol-List=0A>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.ma
tronics.com=0A>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.ma
Message 23
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I did as Jim did. I used T-88 to seal. So far so good, but then, I
only use avgas (our auto fuel is too suspect around here).
>What kind of epoxy did you use?
>do not archive
>
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
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| Subject: | Re: Getting in the Front Seat with the Dreaded Cross Wires |
I am sweet and cuddly, Tim:)
do not archive
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303879#303879
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I used the exact same float from the Ford dealer that Rick Holland shows. Attached
it a little different, but the idea is identical. So far so good.
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303880#303880
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
Jack - I'm having good luck with my electronic tach. Looks kinda modern in the
panel (thus matching the GPS and the handheld). It works well and was simple
to install.
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303882#303882
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