Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:27 AM - Ohio Corvair Fly-IN - Part 2 (Kip and Beth Gardner)
2. 09:35 AM - Re: Cork Floats (Lagowski Morrow)
3. 10:07 AM - Re: Cork Floats (Steve Ruse)
4. 10:14 AM - MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT (899PM)
5. 10:27 AM - Re: Cork Floats (H RULE)
6. 10:56 AM - Cork Floats (Oscar Zuniga)
7. 11:22 AM - Re: Cork Floats (Steve Ruse)
8. 11:33 AM - Re: Cork Floats (H RULE)
9. 11:46 AM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Dan Yocum)
10. 12:02 PM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Jack Phillips)
11. 12:32 PM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Dan Yocum)
12. 12:40 PM - Re: Cork Floats (Isablcorky@aol.com)
13. 12:52 PM - Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (taildrags)
14. 12:52 PM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Jack Phillips)
15. 01:01 PM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Robert Gow)
16. 01:58 PM - Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant (John Fay)
17. 02:42 PM - Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant (H RULE)
18. 02:42 PM - Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant (Rick Holland)
19. 04:43 PM - Re: MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT (Pieti Lowell)
20. 05:05 PM - Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant (Jason Holmes)
21. 05:22 PM - Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant (H RULE)
22. 05:38 PM - Re: MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT (helspersew@aol.com)
23. 06:18 PM - Re: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? (Kip and Beth Gardner)
24. 06:39 PM - Dan's Piet Status Report, please (was: Re: MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT) (Dan Yocum)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Ohio Corvair Fly-IN - Part 2 |
OK, so I know everyone is in "waiting for Brodhaed" mode, but I'm
posting this for all of you who can't get there this year (like me),
or just need yet another event to fly to this summer.
Hope to see you there!
Kip Gardner
Subject: EAA 82 WINGS AND WHEELS FLY-IN, Part Two
Last month, June 5th & 6th, EAA Chapter 82 had scheduled our annual
Wings and Wheels Fly-in, but the weather didn't cooperate.
We have re-scheduled the fly-in in conjunction with the annual
Taylotcraft / Aeronca Fly-in which is also held annually at Barber
Field (2D1).
It will be held on July 10th and 11th.
The field is located approximately three miles north of Alliance,
Ohio on State Route 225. There will be aircraft with automotive and
alternative engines - CORVAIRS AND VOLKSWAGENS on display.
There will be a pancake breakfast on Saturday and Sunday from 7 till
11 AM with lunch on Saturday from noon till 2 PM. This event is open
to the public.
There will be homebuilt aircraft ( KR-2S's, Pietenpols, an Afford-a-
Plane), PRA #19 (Rotorcraft Chapter) will have trikes and a
demonstrator, and Vintage and Antique aircraft (Waco 9, Fleet,
Taylorcraft, Aeronca) on the field. There will be a fleet of some
nicely restored Corvair cars on display. Mark Langford, Larry
Flesner, Mark Jones and Joe Horton are planning on being there,
provided the weather and their schedules permit.
There will be several Corvair engines and a "Roy's Garage" Fifth
Bearing on display for those who are interested in using a Corvair in
their project. Roy Szarafinski of Roy's Garage WILL RETURN to answer
questions about his bearing and will gladly check your ENGINE CASES
AND CRANKS for proper tolerances before you start an engine rebuild.
The fly-in hours will be Saturday... 7 AM - 4 PM and Sunday... 7 AM
- 2 PM.
For more information, contact Ron Willett @ 330-314-0075 or Pete
Klapp @ 330-388-2074, and Forrest Barber (FBO) at
WWW.BARBERAIRCRAFT.COM.
We can provide lodging for those who would be flying in for our event.
Hope to see many fellow EAA faces present at our fly-in.
Thanks,
Pete Klapp, building KR-2S, N729PK,
Canton, Ohio
Message 2
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I'm sorry to report I don't remember-Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: H RULE
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
What kind of epoxy did you use?
do not archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Lagowski Morrow <jimdeb@charter.net>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 9:25:05 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
=EF=BB
I did the same thing with 2 corks and thin stainless steel welding
rod. I bent the top over after going thru a brazed in tube in the cap.
The bend was located so that when it bottoms on the cap I still have ~1
hour of flying left @ 4 gallons /hr with my 65 Continental. Works fine.
I epoxied the cork to seal it. Now on its 3rd year with no apparent
deterioration. Gets checked every time I add fuel.--Jim lagowski
----- Original Message -----
From: H RULE
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
I went to my local wine making store and found nice size corks which
I put 2 of them back to back in other words thick ends to the middle and
then covered them in anything which is impervious to fuel,pushed the
metal wire through them and bent it over once through and it works just
fine.
We had a discussion on here a few months back about what is good to
cover them with to protect against the gas and I can't remember what
that was now but I'm sure somebody out there knows.With the ethonol in
the gas now it's hard to know what works and what doesn't anymore.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 7:23:18 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
Am trying a mid-70s Mustang fuel tank float on mine.
rick
On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net>
wrote:
I have collected almost as many articles on mechanical fuel gauges
as I have on wiring diagrams!! One of the common topics was what kind of
float to use. Most have probable seen the one that went from Axe
deodorant cans to WD40 cans.
No doubt, all the ideas work, but I have been stuck on good,
old-fashioned cork
This was an easy internet search, and the cork is very cheap
(unfortunately, the shipping is not!).
http://www.corkstore.com/compass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.ch
eckout&action=ok&time=13:50:04&quicksearch=
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down)
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
om/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" rel=nofollow
target=_blank>http://www.matr="http://forums.matronics.com/"
rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://for========
Message 3
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My cork float is a fishing rod handle from Bass Pro Shops. Works
great, just the right size, and it already had a hole through the
middle.
I used T-88 epoxy to coat mine almost five years ago, it has been
submersed in fuel since then with no problems. No ethanol though.
I've read that all epoxies are affected by ethanol in some way, but I
can't substantiate that.
I used 1/8" aluminum rod from aircraft spruce. 1/8" steel or brass
was too heavy. Smaller steel wire will work but left too much of the
hole open in my fuel cap.
Steve
Quoting Lagowski Morrow <jimdeb@charter.net>:
> I'm sorry to report I don't remember-Jim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: H RULE
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 10:15 PM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
>
>
> What kind of epoxy did you use?
> do not archive
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: Lagowski Morrow <jimdeb@charter.net>
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 9:25:05 PM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
>
>
> I did the same thing with 2 corks and thin stainless steel welding
> rod. I bent the top over after going thru a brazed in tube in the
> cap. The bend was located so that when it bottoms on the cap I still
> have ~1 hour of flying left @ 4 gallons /hr with my 65 Continental.
> Works fine. I epoxied the cork to seal it. Now on its 3rd year with
> no apparent deterioration. Gets checked every time I add fuel.--Jim
> lagowski
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: H RULE
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:12 PM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
>
>
> I went to my local wine making store and found nice size corks
> which I put 2 of them back to back in other words thick ends to the
> middle and then covered them in anything which is impervious to
> fuel,pushed the metal wire through them and bent it over once
> through and it works just fine.
>
> We had a discussion on here a few months back about what is good
> to cover them with to protect against the gas and I can't remember
> what that was now but I'm sure somebody out there knows.With the
> ethonol in the gas now it's hard to know what works and what doesn't
> anymore.
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 7:23:18 PM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
>
> Am trying a mid-70s Mustang fuel tank float on mine.
>
> rick
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Gary Boothe
> <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I have collected almost as many articles on mechanical fuel
> gauges as I have on wiring diagrams!! One of the common topics was
> what kind of float to use. Most have probable seen the one that went
> from Axe deodorant cans to WD40 cans.
>
>
> No doubt, all the ideas work, but I have been stuck on good,
> old-fashioned cork
>
>
> This was an easy internet search, and the cork is very cheap
> (unfortunately, the shipping is not!).
>
>
>
> http://www.corkstore.com/compass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.checkout&action=ok&time=13:50:04&quicksearch
>
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, Ca.
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> (20 ribs down)
>
>
> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> --
> Rick Holland
> Castle Rock, Colorado
>
> "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
> om/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" rel=nofollow
> target=_blank>http://www.matr="http://forums.matronics.com/"
> rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://for========
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT |
For those of you running Model A's....what carb are you using? What drop have you
seen with the application of carb heat. With the only other change being from
auto gas to 100LL I saw a drop of 110rpm after hooking up the carb heat yesterday.
This seems excessive. Was turning 1860rpm with a 76-42 Sensenich wood
prop. Could only get 1750 yesterday.
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303906#303906
Attachments:
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Message 5
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A friend of mine said he used JB weld on his cork to cover it.He said it wa
s impervious to anything.=C2-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________________________
___=0AFrom: Steve Ruse <steve@wotelectronics.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matr
onics.com=0ASent: Tue, July 6, 2010 1:07:20 PM=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-Lis
@wotelectronics.com>=0A=0AMy cork float is a fishing rod handle from Bass P
ro Shops.=C2- Works great, just the right size, and it already had a hole
through the middle.=0A=0AI used T-88 epoxy to coat mine almost five years
ago, it has been submersed in fuel since then with no problems.=C2- No et
hanol though.=C2- I've read that all epoxies are affected by ethanol in s
ome way, but I can't substantiate that.=0A=0AI used 1/8" aluminum rod from
aircraft spruce.=C2- 1/8" steel or brass was too heavy.=C2- Smaller ste
el wire will work but left too much of the hole open in my fuel cap.=0A=0AS
teve=0A=0AQuoting Lagowski Morrow <jimdeb@charter.net>:=0A=0A> I'm sorry to
report I don't remember-Jim=0A>=C2- ----- Original Message -----=0A>=C2
- From: H RULE=0A>=C2- To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com=0A>=C2- Sent:
Monday, July 05, 2010 10:15 PM=0A>=C2- Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork
Floats=0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- What kind of epoxy did you use?=0A>=C2- do no
t archive=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> -----------------------------------------
-------------------------------------=0A>=C2- From: Lagowski Morrow <jimd
eb@charter.net>=0A>=C2- To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com=0A>=C2- Sent:
Mon, July 5, 2010 9:25:05 PM=0A>=C2- Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Fl
oats=0A> =0A>=C2- =EF=BB=0A>=C2- I did the same thing with 2 corks a
nd thin stainless steel welding=C2- rod. I bent the top over after going
thru a brazed in tube in the=C2- cap. The bend was located so that when i
t bottoms on the cap I still=C2- have ~1 hour of flying left @ 4 gallons
/hr with my 65 Continental.=C2- Works fine. I epoxied the cork to seal it
. Now on its 3rd year with=C2- no apparent deterioration. Gets checked ev
ery time I add fuel.--Jim=C2- lagowski=0A>=C2- =C2- ----- Original Me
ssage -----=0A>=C2- =C2- From: H RULE=0A>=C2- =C2- To: pietenpol-li
st@matronics.com=0A>=C2- =C2- Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:12 PM=0A>
=C2- =C2- Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats=0A> =0A> =0A>=C2-
=C2- I went to my local wine making store and found nice size corks=C2-
which I put 2 of them back to back in other words thick ends to the=C2-
middle and then covered them in anything which is impervious to=C2- fuel,
pushed the metal wire through them and bent it over once=C2- through and
it works just fine.=0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- We had a discussion on here a few
months back about what is good=C2- to cover them with to protect against
the gas and I can't remember=C2- what that was now but I'm sure somebody
out there knows.With the=C2- ethonol in the gas now it's hard to know wh
at works and what doesn't=C2- anymore.=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> ---------------
-------------------------------------------------------------=0A>=C2- =C2
- From: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>=0A>=C2- =C2- To: pietenpol-
list@matronics.com=0A>=C2- =C2- Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 7:23:18 PM=0A>
=C2- =C2- Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats=0A> =0A>=C2- =C2
- Am trying a mid-70s Mustang fuel tank float on mine.=0A> =0A>=C2- =C2
- rick=0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Gary B
oothe=C2- <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote:=0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- I ha
ve collected almost as many articles on mechanical fuel=C2- gauges as I h
ave on wiring diagrams!! One of the common topics was=C2- what kind of fl
oat to use. Most have probable seen the one that went=C2- from Axe deodor
ant cans to WD40 cans.=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- No doubt, all
the ideas work, but I have been stuck on good,=C2- old-fashioned cork
=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- This was an easy internet sea
rch, and the cork is very cheap=C2- (unfortunately, the shipping is not!)
.=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- http://www.corkstore.com/co
mpass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.checkout&action=ok&time=13:
50:04&quicksearch==0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- Gary Boothe=0A>
=C2- =C2- =C2- Cool, Ca.=0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- Pietenpol=0A>=C2-
=C2- =C2- WW Corvair Conversion, mounted=0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- Tail d
one, Fuselage on gear=0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- (20 ribs down)=0A>
=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?Pietenpol-List=0A> tp://forums.matronics.com=0A> _blank">http://www.ma
tronics.com/contribution=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- --=0A>=C2-
=C2- Rick Holland=0A>=C2- =C2- Castle Rock, Colorado=0A> =0A>=C2-
=C2- "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"=0A> =0A> =0A>
=0A> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.
matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List=0A> href="http://forums.matronics.
com">http://forums.matronics.com=0A> href="http://www.matronics.com/contr
ibution">http://www.matronics.com/c=0A> =0A> om/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" r
el=nofollow=C2- target=_blank>http://www.matr="http://forums.matron
ics.com/"=C2- rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://for======
==C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- - List Contribution Web Site -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2
===================
Message 6
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41CC has the twin cork float setup too. However,
it seems like the corks don't always provide enough
flotation to keep the indicator rod reading correctly.
I may just try the Ford Mustang/Cougar brass float
to see if it's any better.
FWIW, I believe Corky said he dipped the corks in
shellac to seal them, but I don't remember exactly.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 7
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I tried Shellac on two different corks, and in both cases within a
couple of days the shellac would bubble and blister at the pits in the
cork. Maybe I needed to thin it more or add more coats of shellac,
but the way I did it didn't seal well at all. T-88 was easy.
Steve
Quoting Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>:
>
>
> 41CC has the twin cork float setup too. However,
> it seems like the corks don't always provide enough
> flotation to keep the indicator rod reading correctly.
>
> I may just try the Ford Mustang/Cougar brass float
> to see if it's any better.
>
> FWIW, I believe Corky said he dipped the corks in
> shellac to seal them, but I don't remember exactly.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
Message 8
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Someone in the past commented on shellac being eaten by ethonol, I think.Th
is whole ethonol thing is a real pain in the butt.I have had to order new m
etal and specially coated tanks for my N3 Pup because of it.The dam stuff e
ats fiber glass like candy.It gives low power and not worth the powder to b
low it to hell as far as I'm concerned.You pay less for it but you don't go
as far on a tank full so where is the savings other than we are not giving
as much to the Arabs.We just had this new tax levied on us called the HST
(harmonised sales tax)which caused the price of gas to go up about another
7 cents a liter.I remember when I was a kid if the gas went up a cent more
per gallon there was hell to pay for it.A national out cry would be heard a
cross the country and it wasn't long before they dropped it back to the ori
ginal price or the gas station would suffer from none use.People would leav
e their cars at home and walk because of it.Now adays the gas is as
much as 40 cents agallon from one side of town to the other and nobody sez
anything.It's like we are all numb from shock or somethin.The word on the
street is use Shell high test and there is no ethonol in it.I don't know;I
was talking to a guy who delivers gas all night long and he said if- they
have extra regular then they dump it in the high test tank rather than hau
l it back.Well so much for high test being ethonol free.You say well test i
t before you use it and what if it does have ethonol in it .You take it bac
k and they'll just laugh at you because they will say "once it's gone from
the gas station there are no garantees what happened to it."=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________=0AFrom: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.co
m>=0ATo: Pietenpol List <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>=0ASent: Tue, July 6,
2010 1:53:23 PM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats=0A=0A--> Pietenpol-
List message posted by: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>=0A=0A=0A41CC h
as the twin cork float setup too.- However,=0Ait seems like the corks don
't always provide enough=0Aflotation to keep the indicator rod reading corr
ectly.=0A=0AI may just try the Ford Mustang/Cougar brass float=0Ato see if
it's any better.=0A=0AFWIW, I believe Corky said he dipped the corks in=0As
hellac to seal them, but I don't remember exactly.=0A=0AOscar Zuniga=0AAir
Camper NX41CC=0ASan Antonio, TX=0Amailto: taildrags@hotmail.com=0Awebsite a
t http://www.flysquirrel.net --- --- --- - ---
=========================0A
====================
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
First off, I'd like to thank all of you guys who have given some thought
to this and taken the time to reply. I really appreciate it - a round
of beers on me at Brodhead.
Eric and I looked at the pressure relief valve this morning - nothing
lodged in there that we could see. He did notice that the spring was an
old type spring so he called up to Poplar Grove Airmotive to see if
they've got a new type. They do, so we're going to replace the spring.
Then we pulled the temperature gauge to test it for accuracy - dropped
it into a pop can of boiling water and it came up to 85C. Re-heated the
water and it came up to 88C - didn't want to get the propane torch up in
there to keep the water at 100C, so I'm satisfied that if the temp gauge
isn't exactly on, it's only off by 5C (9F) and it shows 70C (158F) at
cruise on an 82 degree day.
Next we pulled the oil screen and hoo-boy, was it full o' crud. A boat
load of carbon, some red flecks of paint from the dipstick, and a couple
grains of sand. The last couple things are probably from the rag we
stuffed in the case when we took the jug off. Oops. He guesses that
the carbon came from the old piston skirt when we popped off the jug and
it fell back into the case. Take a look at the attached picture. Mind
you, this oil now has a grand total of 25 minutes of flying time on it.
Well, we're going to replace the spring in a few days, fly it in the
pattern to see what's up, and if it doesn't fix the pressure problem
we'll take the accessory case off and send it up to Poplar Grove for an
STC fix they've got for the oil pump: something to do with inserts which
bring the clearance between the gears and the sides back into spec. No
welding required.
Jeez, only 2 1/2 weeks until Brodhead... :-/
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Dan, it might not hurt to pull the oil sump and give it a good cleaning.
That would also let you remove and clean the oil pickup tube, to verify
there are no pieces of rag in it. Check with Poplar Grove and see if they
have a replacement gasket or you will have oil leaks for sure.
And I had suggested maybe trying a different oil pressure gage, not
temperature gage. My gage went bad this year on the way to SNF, so I know
it can happen.
Good luck with it. Hope to see you in a couple of weeks at Brodhead.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
First off, I'd like to thank all of you guys who have given some thought
to this and taken the time to reply. I really appreciate it - a round
of beers on me at Brodhead.
Eric and I looked at the pressure relief valve this morning - nothing
lodged in there that we could see. He did notice that the spring was an
old type spring so he called up to Poplar Grove Airmotive to see if
they've got a new type. They do, so we're going to replace the spring.
Then we pulled the temperature gauge to test it for accuracy - dropped
it into a pop can of boiling water and it came up to 85C. Re-heated the
water and it came up to 88C - didn't want to get the propane torch up in
there to keep the water at 100C, so I'm satisfied that if the temp gauge
isn't exactly on, it's only off by 5C (9F) and it shows 70C (158F) at
cruise on an 82 degree day.
Next we pulled the oil screen and hoo-boy, was it full o' crud. A boat
load of carbon, some red flecks of paint from the dipstick, and a couple
grains of sand. The last couple things are probably from the rag we
stuffed in the case when we took the jug off. Oops. He guesses that
the carbon came from the old piston skirt when we popped off the jug and
it fell back into the case. Take a look at the attached picture. Mind
you, this oil now has a grand total of 25 minutes of flying time on it.
Well, we're going to replace the spring in a few days, fly it in the
pattern to see what's up, and if it doesn't fix the pressure problem
we'll take the accessory case off and send it up to Poplar Grove for an
STC fix they've got for the oil pump: something to do with inserts which
bring the clearance between the gears and the sides back into spec. No
welding required.
Jeez, only 2 1/2 weeks until Brodhead... :-/
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Hey Jack,
On 07/06/2010 02:01 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips"<pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
>
> Dan, it might not hurt to pull the oil sump and give it a good cleaning.
> That would also let you remove and clean the oil pickup tube, to verify
> there are no pieces of rag in it. Check with Poplar Grove and see if they
> have a replacement gasket or you will have oil leaks for sure.
>
> And I had suggested maybe trying a different oil pressure gage, not
> temperature gage. My gage went bad this year on the way to SNF, so I know
> it can happen.
You did mention that - I forgot. I will ask Eric if he's got a spare we
can test with when he comes back out.
Generally when I start 'er up it takes 20-30 seconds for the gauge to
show any pressure, and then it "pops" up to about 40psi. What does your
gauge do? Does it pop too, or does it increase more steadily? I
realize this might be more a function of the oil pump than anything...
>
> Good luck with it. Hope to see you in a couple of weeks at Brodhead.
Oh, I'll be there one way or another. If the plane is down, that'll
give me a good excuse to bring more adult beverages for the evening
festivities.
Thanks!
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
Message 12
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No shellac Oscar. I had some Hirsch's Gasoline Tank Sealer left over from
my old car restoration days and it seemed to work great. The corks are from
any wine bottles.
Corky
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Pull the oil sump? That was the biggest pain in the rear that I can remember about
working on my 65. In the nose-over, the carb got shoved back into the oil
sump and I was concerned about it being punctured (shouldn't have been, it turns
out). I bought another one on eBay and that one turned out to give me even
more problems and it, too, had been cratered by a carb in an earlier life and
then blown back out. I think most of the oil sumps out there have dents or
dings in them anyway.
The problem with the oil sump on these small Continentals is that they were designed
to be installed with glee by Satan's stepchildren, with about twenty small
castellated nuts holding them onto the studs, NO way to get all of them properly
aligned with the drilled holes in the studs and still get the specified
torque on them, NO room to get a proper tool in there to tighten them, NO room
to safety them, and pretty much NO room to do anything but curse. But if you
don't get it all correct (and I never did, on the 65)- the sump gasket will seep
and leak from day one. You'll have oil dripping from your cowling, misting
onto the firewall, and coating everything inside the cowling. You won't want
to take off the safety wire from all those cussed nuts to retorque them, so
you live with it.
Oh, and by the way- if you do pull the sump, don't use a cork gasket on it if you
can get one of those red-orange silicone ones. The new ones seal much better
and don't harden up over time.
The sump on my A75 is installed to perfection (easy to do with the engine on an
assembly stand). Not one single tiny drop of oil anywhere from the new engine.
Last thing about oil pressure. My old 65 could get the pressure into the green
slowly but surely, but it was never any great shakes... maybe 20-25 psi. Yes,
the older engines lose pressure when the face of the rear cover wears and oil
bypasses. It also makes it more and more difficult for the pump gears to 'prime',
and there are lots of little things that people have worked out over the
years to overcome this when you fire the engine up after it's been sitting for
a couple of weeks and the pressure doesn't come up within about 10 seconds.
They involve raising the tail, or lowering the tail, or removing the oil pressure
line and squirting oil in to prime the pump gears, or shaking a bag of chicken
bones while shouting incantations. Ultimately, besides replacing the gears,
the rear case can be reworked to improve the clearance. The A75 develops
pressure in the 40 psi range. Continental specs call for 30-35 psi oil pressure
at cruise.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
Air Camper NX41CC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303950#303950
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Hi Dan,
With my old oil pressure gage, after I started the engine I would wait for
nearly 30 seconds (and begin wondering whether I should shut the engine
down) before the gage would begin to move. After about 30 seconds it would
jump to about 10 psi, and after another 30 seconds it would jump again, to
about 25 psi and then the third jump would take it to 35.
As I said, this gage got where it would still read 35 psi, even a week after
engine shutdown. If I tapped on the gage it would then drop to zero. Not
much good as an indicator of impending engine problems...
The new gage (of exactly the same type) now begins to climb off the peg
almost as soon as I start the engine and smoothly increases to 35 psi. It
is a Rochester gage that I bought from AS&S.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
Hey Jack,
On 07/06/2010 02:01 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack
Phillips"<pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
>
> Dan, it might not hurt to pull the oil sump and give it a good cleaning.
> That would also let you remove and clean the oil pickup tube, to verify
> there are no pieces of rag in it. Check with Poplar Grove and see if they
> have a replacement gasket or you will have oil leaks for sure.
>
> And I had suggested maybe trying a different oil pressure gage, not
> temperature gage. My gage went bad this year on the way to SNF, so I know
> it can happen.
You did mention that - I forgot. I will ask Eric if he's got a spare we
can test with when he comes back out.
Generally when I start 'er up it takes 20-30 seconds for the gauge to
show any pressure, and then it "pops" up to about 40psi. What does your
gauge do? Does it pop too, or does it increase more steadily? I
realize this might be more a function of the oil pump than anything...
>
> Good luck with it. Hope to see you in a couple of weeks at Brodhead.
Oh, I'll be there one way or another. If the plane is down, that'll
give me a good excuse to bring more adult beverages for the evening
festivities.
Thanks!
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
My experience with my old Chief was similar. I took to priming the oil
pump before each start by unscrewing the pressure line and squirting oil
in. Oil pressure came up every time. Eventually I got a NOS rear case
from Reno and fixed the problem once and for all.
No paperwork . . .
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack
Phillips
Sent: July 6, 2010 3:52 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
<pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
Hi Dan,
With my old oil pressure gage, after I started the engine I would wait for
nearly 30 seconds (and begin wondering whether I should shut the engine
down) before the gage would begin to move. After about 30 seconds it
would
jump to about 10 psi, and after another 30 seconds it would jump again, to
about 25 psi and then the third jump would take it to 35.
As I said, this gage got where it would still read 35 psi, even a week
after
engine shutdown. If I tapped on the gage it would then drop to zero. Not
much good as an indicator of impending engine problems...
The new gage (of exactly the same type) now begins to climb off the peg
almost as soon as I start the engine and smoothly increases to 35 psi. It
is a Rochester gage that I bought from AS&S.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
Hey Jack,
On 07/06/2010 02:01 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack
Phillips"<pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
>
> Dan, it might not hurt to pull the oil sump and give it a good cleaning.
> That would also let you remove and clean the oil pickup tube, to verify
> there are no pieces of rag in it. Check with Poplar Grove and see if
they
> have a replacement gasket or you will have oil leaks for sure.
>
> And I had suggested maybe trying a different oil pressure gage, not
> temperature gage. My gage went bad this year on the way to SNF, so I
know
> it can happen.
You did mention that - I forgot. I will ask Eric if he's got a spare we
can test with when he comes back out.
Generally when I start 'er up it takes 20-30 seconds for the gauge to
show any pressure, and then it "pops" up to about 40psi. What does your
gauge do? Does it pop too, or does it increase more steadily? I
realize this might be more a function of the oil pump than anything...
>
> Good luck with it. Hope to see you in a couple of weeks at Brodhead.
Oh, I'll be there one way or another. If the plane is down, that'll
give me a good excuse to bring more adult beverages for the evening
festivities.
Thanks!
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
Message 16
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| Subject: | Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant |
Harvey,
I need to correct you on one point in your rant on ethanol. You said that
the only advantage you could see was that it is a little cheaper, but when
you take into account the decreased mileage, you weren't even sure if that
was worth it. It is NOT cheaper. It actually costs substantially more that
straight gasoline, but the government subsidizes it so that you won't notice
that. If they didn't a gallon of gasohol would actually cost about 10 - 15
cents than pure gasoline. If you look at the extended economic effects, it
gets even worse. The increasing use of it is one of the main reason our
food costs have been going up the last three years, and a couple years ago
they even had some riots in Mexico, because the government there had to
raise the price of tortillas.
But if we really want to get into the effects of the decisions made by our
solons, it would probably make me so mad, I wouldn't be able to build, so
I'll drop it.
I glued up my secon elevator this afternoon. I did the first one back in
July of '02. This evening I'll draw out and begin building either the fin
or rudder. I decided not to make any enlargement of the fin. So I am
finally making progress again.
See you all at Brodhead
Do not archive.
John Fay
in Peoria
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant |
Funny thing is when they first started selling ethonol up here I thought it
was a great thing because they made it a lot cheeper than gas and they eve
n sold us the story of it bing like premium only cheaper than regular so I
bought it hook line and sinker.My car started running with strange noises l
ater so I went back to regular gas.BUT you are right we are paying through
the nose for this crap and it's not going to get any better down the road.T
hey want to build these ethonol plants all over the place up here.The only
thing farmers grow up here now is corn.Thanks for correcting me on that poi
nt.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: John Fay <jfay19
50@gmail.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, July 6, 2010
4:57:47 PM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant=0A=0A=0AHa
rvey, =0A=0AI need to correct you on one point in your rant on ethanol.-
You said that the only advantage you could see was that it is a little chea
per, but when you take into account the decreased mileage, you weren't even
sure if that was worth it.- It is NOT cheaper.- It actually costs subs
tantially more that straight gasoline, but the government subsidizes it so
that you won't notice that.- If they didn't a gallon of gasohol would act
ually cost about 10 - 15 cents than pure gasoline.- If you look at the ex
tended economic effects, it gets even worse.- The increasing use of it is
one of the main reason our food costs have been going up the last three ye
ars, and a couple years ago they even had some riots in Mexico, because the
government there had to raise the price of tortillas.=0A=0ABut if we reall
y want to get into the effects of the decisions made by our solons, it woul
d probably make me so mad, I wouldn't be able to build, so I'll drop it.-
=0A=0AI glued up my secon elevator this afternoon.- I did the first one
back in July of '02.- This evening I'll draw out and begin building eithe
r the fin or rudder.- I decided not to make any enlargement of the fin.
- So I am finally making progress again.=0A=0ASee you all at Brodhead=0A
==============
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant |
> If they didn't a gallon of gasohol would actually cost about 10 - 15
cents than pure >gasoline. If you look at the extended economic effects, it
gets even worse. The >increasing use of it is one of the main reason our
food costs have been going up the >last three years, and a couple years ago
they even had some riots in Mexico, >because the government there had to
raise the price of tortillas.
> But if we really want to get into the effects of the decisions made by our
solons, it >would probably make me so mad, I wouldn't be able to build, so
I'll drop it.
>
>
When I start thinking about it and get mad I find that going to the garage
and workin on the Piet helps me forget and remember what's important.
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT |
Mike :
If you pull the hose off the heater does the RPM change ?
What RPM difference does the fuel change make ?
Is the lower RPM only on 100LL ?
Is the carb acting up again ?
The Funk engine uses a down draft Zenith.
Douwe and I have used a two venturi Weber with great success.
The larger venturi the better, with smooth ducting.
Carbs from Cont, will work but will need Carb heat with a diverter box to get the
most HP on take-off.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303977#303977
Message 20
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| Subject: | Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant |
Not to be the bearer of bad news but the EPA may be approving a waiver for
gasoline to move to 15% ethanol from the current max of 10% (or E10). I
believe they want to make this decision in October or November. If they
approve the waiver request for E15, a waiver request for E20 or E25 will be
placed shortly after. Someone mentioned that premium fuel may not have
ethanol but you have to remember that ethanol has a much higher octane than
gasoline so they can blend in ethanol to get the premium fuel up to 92
octane.
Either way, you cannot buy any gasoline in central Ohio that is not at least
E7 or E8 and most of the time they are right at E10 (or so I was told by a
fuel supplier).
How will E15 or E20 affect the current fleet of cars, trucks, small engines,
motorcycles, airplanes, etc? Well, lots of money is being spent by the
government to find out about how cars are affected. A little was spent
trying to find out how small engines were affected. To my knowledge, no
money has been spent on motorcycles, airplanes, boat engines, or snow
mobiles. If you google "mid-level ethanol blends" you should come up with
all kinds of interesting studies and reports from the government, the CRC,
and other groups.
My two cents,
Jason Holmes
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Fay
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 4:58 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant
Harvey,
I need to correct you on one point in your rant on ethanol. You said that
the only advantage you could see was that it is a little cheaper, but when
you take into account the decreased mileage, you weren't even sure if that
was worth it. It is NOT cheaper. It actually costs substantially more that
straight gasoline, but the government subsidizes it so that you won't notice
that. If they didn't a gallon of gasohol would actually cost about 10 - 15
cents than pure gasoline. If you look at the extended economic effects, it
gets even worse. The increasing use of it is one of the main reason our
food costs have been going up the last three years, and a couple years ago
they even had some riots in Mexico, because the government there had to
raise the price of tortillas.
But if we really want to get into the effects of the decisions made by our
solons, it would probably make me so mad, I wouldn't be able to build, so
I'll drop it.
I glued up my secon elevator this afternoon. I did the first one back in
July of '02. This evening I'll draw out and begin building either the fin
or rudder. I decided not to make any enlargement of the fin. So I am
finally making progress again.
See you all at Brodhead
Do not archive.
John Fay
in Peoria
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant |
I can tell you for certain that here in Canada their intent is to go 100%
=0Aethonol in the future.=0Ado not archive=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A__________________
______________=0AFrom: Jason Holmes <jholmes8@centurylink.net>=0ATo: pieten
pol-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, July 6, 2010 8:04:44 PM=0ASubject: RE:
Pietenpol-List: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant=0A=0A=0ANot to be the bearer of
bad news but the EPA may be approving a waiver for =0Agasoline to move to 1
5% ethanol from the current max of 10% (or E10).=C2- I believe =0Athey wa
nt to make this decision in October or November.=C2- If they approve the
=0Awaiver request for E15, a waiver request for E20 or E25 will be placed s
hortly =0Aafter.=C2- Someone mentioned that premium fuel may not have eth
anol but you have to =0Aremember that ethanol has a much higher octane than
gasoline so they can blend =0Ain ethanol to get the premium fuel up to 92
octane.=C2- =0A=0A=C2-=0AEither way, you cannot buy any gasoline in cen
tral Ohio that is not at least E7 =0Aor E8 and most of the time they are ri
ght at E10 (or so I was told by a fuel =0Asupplier). =C2-=0A=C2-=0AHow
will E15 or E20 affect the current fleet of cars, trucks, small engines,
=0Amotorcycles, airplanes, etc?=C2- Well, lots of money is being spent by
the =0Agovernment to find out about how cars are affected.=C2- A little
was spent trying =0Ato find out how small engines were affected.=C2- To m
y knowledge, no money has been =0Aspent on motorcycles, airplanes, boat eng
ines, or snow mobiles.=C2- If you google =0A=9Cmid-level ethanol bl
ends=9D you should come up with all kinds of interesting =0Astudies a
nd reports from the government, the CRC, and other groups.=0A=C2-=0AMy tw
o cents,=0AJason Holmes=0A=C2-=0AFrom:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matroni
cs.com =0A[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J
ohn Fay=0ASent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 4:58 PM=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matroni
cs.com=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant=0A=C2-=0AHar
vey, =0A=C2-=0AI need to correct you on one point in your rant on ethanol
.=C2- You said that the =0Aonly advantage you could see was that it is a
little cheaper, but when you take =0Ainto account the decreased mileage, yo
u weren't even sure if that was worth it.=C2- =0AIt is NOT cheaper.=C2-
It actually costs substantially more that straight gasoline, =0Abut the go
vernment subsidizes it so that you won't notice that.=C2- If they didn't
=0Aa gallon of gasohol would actually cost about 10 - 15 cents than pure ga
soline.=C2- =0AIf you look at the extended economic effects, it gets even
worse.=C2- The =0Aincreasing use of it is one of the main reason our foo
d costs have been going up =0Athe last three years, and a couple years ago
they even had some riots in Mexico, =0Abecause the government there had to
raise the price of tortillas.=0A=C2-=0ABut if we really want to get into
the effects of the decisions made by our =0Asolons, it would probably make
me so mad, I wouldn't be able to build, so I'll =0Adrop it.=C2- =0A=0A=C2
-=0AI glued up my secon elevator this afternoon.=C2- I did the first on
e back in July =0Aof '02.=C2- This evening I'll draw out and begin buildi
ng either the fin or =0Arudder.=C2- I decided not to make any enlargement
of the fin.=C2- So I am finally =0Amaking progress again.=0A=C2-=0ASee
you all at Brodhead=0A=C2-=0ADo not archive.=0A=C2-=0AJohn Fay=0Ain Pe
oria=C2-=0A=C2-=0A =C2-=0A =C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigato
r?Pietenpol-List=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/c
========================
=0A
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT |
Hi Papa,
I have only tested my A with the carb heat in place. It runs 1860 static,
with the model B carb. I am turning my home-made 46/76 prop.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: 899PM <rockriverrifle@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Jul 6, 2010 12:14 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT
For those of you running Model A's....what carb are you using? What drop
have
ou seen with the application of carb heat. With the only other change bein
g
rom auto gas to 100LL I saw a drop of 110rpm after hooking up the carb hea
t
esterday. This seems excessive. Was turning 1860rpm with a 76-42 Sensenich
wood
rop. Could only get 1750 yesterday.
--------
APA MIKE
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303906#303906
ttachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2614_120.jpg
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
As a charter member of the CS2, I find this eternal thread on the
problems of these highly reliable certificated aircraft engines
ironically amusing :).
For god's sake, DO NOT ARCHIVE
Kip Gardner
On Jul 6, 2010, at 3:50 PM, Robert Gow wrote:
> <rgow@avionicsdesign.ca>
>
> My experience with my old Chief was similar. I took to priming the
> oil
> pump before each start by unscrewing the pressure line and
> squirting oil
> in. Oil pressure came up every time. Eventually I got a NOS rear
> case
> from Reno and fixed the problem once and for all.
>
> No paperwork . . .
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack
> Phillips
> Sent: July 6, 2010 3:52 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
>
> <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> With my old oil pressure gage, after I started the engine I would
> wait for
> nearly 30 seconds (and begin wondering whether I should shut the
> engine
> down) before the gage would begin to move. After about 30 seconds it
> would
> jump to about 10 psi, and after another 30 seconds it would jump
> again, to
> about 25 psi and then the third jump would take it to 35.
>
> As I said, this gage got where it would still read 35 psi, even a week
> after
> engine shutdown. If I tapped on the gage it would then drop to
> zero. Not
> much good as an indicator of impending engine problems...
>
> The new gage (of exactly the same type) now begins to climb off the
> peg
> almost as soon as I start the engine and smoothly increases to 35
> psi. It
> is a Rochester gage that I bought from AS&S.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
> Yocum
> Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:30 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
>
>
> Hey Jack,
>
>
> On 07/06/2010 02:01 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack
> Phillips"<pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Dan, it might not hurt to pull the oil sump and give it a good
>> cleaning.
>> That would also let you remove and clean the oil pickup tube, to
>> verify
>> there are no pieces of rag in it. Check with Poplar Grove and see if
> they
>> have a replacement gasket or you will have oil leaks for sure.
>>
>
>
>> And I had suggested maybe trying a different oil pressure gage, not
>> temperature gage. My gage went bad this year on the way to SNF, so I
> know
>> it can happen.
>
> You did mention that - I forgot. I will ask Eric if he's got a
> spare we
> can test with when he comes back out.
>
> Generally when I start 'er up it takes 20-30 seconds for the gauge to
> show any pressure, and then it "pops" up to about 40psi. What does
> your
> gauge do? Does it pop too, or does it increase more steadily? I
> realize this might be more a function of the oil pump than anything...
>
>
>>
>> Good luck with it. Hope to see you in a couple of weeks at Brodhead.
>
> Oh, I'll be there one way or another. If the plane is down, that'll
> give me a good excuse to bring more adult beverages for the evening
> festivities.
>
> Thanks!
> Dan
>
> --
> Dan Yocum
> Fermilab 630.840.6509
> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: MODEL A CARBS |
AND CARB HEAT)
Speaking of Mr. Helsper. How are things going with your new infatuation?
How many more hours do you have on 'er and have you solved the engine cuttin
g out when landing problem?
Dan
--
yocum@gmail.com
On Jul 6, 2010, at 7:37 PM, helspersew@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Papa,
>
> I have only tested my A with the carb heat in place. It runs 1860 static, w
ith the model B carb. I am turning my home-made 46/76 prop.
>
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 899PM <rockriverrifle@hotmail.com>
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tue, Jul 6, 2010 12:14 pm
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT
>
>
> For those of you running Model A's....what carb are you using? What drop h
ave
> you seen with the application of carb heat. With the only other change bei
ng
> from auto gas to 100LL I saw a drop of 110rpm after hooking up the carb he
at
> yesterday. This seems excessive. Was turning 1860rpm with a 76-42 Sensenic
h wood
> prop. Could only get 1750 yesterday.
>
> --------
> PAPA MIKE
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303906#303906
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2614_120.jpg
>
>
>
>
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