Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:05 AM - Re: Started my rib jig today (Jerry Dotson)
2. 04:31 AM - Re: Started my rib jig today (helspersew@aol.com)
3. 04:32 AM - Re: Re: Started my rib jig today (Jack)
4. 05:52 AM - Re: Tailbrace wire idea (skellytown flyer)
5. 06:21 AM - Re: Started my rib jig today (JGriff)
6. 06:39 AM - Try some paste wax.... (Jim Markle)
7. 09:28 AM - Re: Re: antenna (KM Heide CPO/FAAOP)
8. 10:10 AM - Re: Try some paste wax.... (JGriff)
9. 05:55 PM - Re: Try some paste wax.... (kevinpurtee)
10. 06:25 PM - Re: leading edge covering (jimbir)
11. 06:37 PM - Re: Try some paste wax.... (Billy McCaskill)
12. 07:21 PM - Re: Re: Try some paste wax.... (Ben Charvet)
13. 07:22 PM - Gussets (giacummo)
14. 08:19 PM - Re: Re: leading edge covering (Chris)
15. 09:14 PM - Re: Gussets (Billy McCaskill)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Started my rib jig today |
I did like Ben also. The only difference was I used Saran Wrap and just covered
the whole jig each time I started a new rib. Sometimes it would stick to the
rib a little but could be sort of brushed off with a small piece of 80 grit sand
paper.
Do not archive
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
Ribs and tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311345#311345
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| Subject: | Re: Started my rib jig today |
Looks good Jamie. Make sure and steam-bend your upper cap strip. I was at
your stage in July of 2000. Keep going little by little.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: JGriff <jgriffith19@comcast.net>
Sent: Fri, Sep 3, 2010 4:33 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Started my rib jig today
Used a pneumatic headless pinner for the blocks so it went together fairly
uickly. I'm fairly sure I'm going to staple the gussets instead of just
lamping so I can try to bang the ribs out fairly quickly.
ttached are some photos - does everything look correct?
'm open to any suggestions from you guys on how to improve the jig and the
rib
uilding process. Thanks.
amie
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311293#311293
ttachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rib2_121.jpg
ttp://forums.matronics.com//files/rib4_439.jpg
ttp://forums.matronics.com//files/rib1_173.jpg
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Started my rib jig today |
Many different ways to set-up your jig. This worked for me.
http://www.textors.com/RibDetail.jpg
Jack
DSM
Jack Textor
29 SW 58th Drive
Des Moines, IA 50312
www.textors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Dotson
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 5:05 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Started my rib jig today
I did like Ben also. The only difference was I used Saran Wrap and just
covered the whole jig each time I started a new rib. Sometimes it would
stick to the rib a little but could be sort of brushed off with a small
piece of 80 grit sand paper.
Do not archive
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
Ribs and tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311345#311345
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| Subject: | Re: Tailbrace wire idea |
Well there are a heck of a lot of Rans aircraft out there.I owned an S-12 -they
all use the same stainless steel tabs as far as I know-they are thick enough
and very nicely made.as far as I know they never had a failure from one.I'm pretty
sure Randy Schlitter has tested about all his parts pretty thoroughly before
he puts them on the market.he also tells you if you need just a little more
tension you can 0put another twist or two in the cable.with the price of turnbuckles
these days it makes sense to consider. Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311352#311352
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| Subject: | Re: Started my rib jig today |
The jig has a layer of 3 mil mylar so hopefully that will be OK. I didn't think
about how to keep the epoxy from sticking to the spar spacers I have in place.
Guess I'll have to figure out a way to get some wax paper in there. I soaked
the first 15" of the top cap strip in hot water for about 20 minutes and clamped
it in my former. Seemed to work OK.
So even though I'll staple the gussets on I should wait for 24 hours or so before
removing the rib to do the other side?
Thanks for all the help and encouragement.
Jamie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311353#311353
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rib6_208.jpg
Message 6
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| Subject: | Try some paste wax.... |
Just wax up the spar insert pieces (or anything else you don't want epoxy to stick
to....) real good. Epoxy won't stick to wax. You may have to do it the first
few times but after a while it will have enough wax embedded that epoxy won't
stick to it....ever. I've used paste car wax in the past for epoxy laminations
and hollow core wing molds and it worked fine. If you have a composites
products store available you can get this stuff called "mold release" which
is also just basically wax. Easier (which I like since I'm lazy) than fiddling
around with wax paper, etc.
jm
-----Original Message-----
>From: JGriff <jgriffith19@comcast.net>
>Sent: Sep 4, 2010 8:21 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Started my rib jig today
>
>
>The jig has a layer of 3 mil mylar so hopefully that will be OK. I didn't think
about how to keep the epoxy from sticking to the spar spacers I have in place.
Guess I'll have to figure out a way to get some wax paper in there. I soaked
the first 15" of the top cap strip in hot water for about 20 minutes and clamped
it in my former. Seemed to work OK.
>
>So even though I'll staple the gussets on I should wait for 24 hours or so before
removing the rib to do the other side?
>
>Thanks for all the help and encouragement.
>Jamie
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311353#311353
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/rib6_208.jpg
>
>
Message 7
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Clif,
-
You are a pleura of information! Thank for the posting.
-
KMHeide
-
--- On Fri, 9/3/10, Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca> wrote:
From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: antenna
The groundplane does not have to be solid. Mine is an
aluminum mesh acquired from an art supply house.
I've added this antenna article also.
My understanding is that you don't have to ground the
groundplane to anything else. It IS the " ground " . The
coax from the radio is attached to the groundplane.
The only concern I have with mine is how it will be
affected by the control cabling when I finaly get the
thing in the air.
Clif
oo.com>
>
> This is good information. I like the idea of an internal ground plane she
et even if it isn't too big. I am guessing it needs to be grounded to the n
egative battery terminal since it's mounted in a wood fuselage? or maybe on
ly the radio grounding from the antenna coax? probably wouldn't matter for
the ELT but might with a radio antenna as far as interference.
=0A=0A=0A
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| Subject: | Re: Try some paste wax.... |
That is a great idea! Thanks!.
Do not archive.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311366#311366
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| Subject: | Re: Try some paste wax.... |
You'll want to thoroughly clean the wax off the completed rib before gluing to
the spar. If the rib won't stick to the jig it won't stick to the spar.
I think I might have used varnish on the that spot on the jib? Don't remember.
1993-1995
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
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| Subject: | Re: leading edge covering |
Thanks for the replies. We'll probably go for the plywood.
One more question. Do you add filler strips to the top of the front spar between
the ribs so as to have something to attach the rear edge of the covering to?
--------
Thanks, Jim Birke
Ira G. Ross Aerospace Museum
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311399#311399
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| Subject: | Re: Try some paste wax.... |
Real mold release agent is made from PVA (poly-vinyl acetate) and contains no wax.
Resins and some epoxies (not sure abobut T-88) can absorb some of the wax
and interfere with proper curing and the ability for glue to stick to it when
it's supposed to. Just something to consider while building your Piet or any
other wood structures...
Also avoid any waxes or lubricants containing silicone, as it will interfere with
adhesion of finishes like varnish, shellac, etc...
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311400#311400
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| Subject: | Re: Try some paste wax.... |
I forgot to mention, the grocery bag pieces are free, and even
reusable. They will stretch to fit the contour you need and are very
easy to use. At Sun-n-Fun this year someone made a rib in the rib jig
without using any release protection. I wonder how they ever got that
rib out.....
Ben
On 9/4/2010 9:37 PM, Billy McCaskill wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Billy McCaskill"<billmz@cox.net>
>
> Real mold release agent is made from PVA (poly-vinyl acetate) and contains no
wax. Resins and some epoxies (not sure abobut T-88) can absorb some of the wax
and interfere with proper curing and the ability for glue to stick to it when
it's supposed to. Just something to consider while building your Piet or any
other wood structures...
>
> Also avoid any waxes or lubricants containing silicone, as it will interfere
with adhesion of finishes like varnish, shellac, etc...
>
> --------
> Billy McCaskill
> Urbana, IL
> tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311400#311400
>
>
Message 13
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Hello,
May be you just talk about gussets, but I do not find anything so I want you to
ask and talk about them.
Th problem with the gussets begun because I we don't have plywood in 1.5 mm ( 1/16"
) here where I leave. I begun with the wing ribs but the minimun plywood
I have is 3 mm and I do not like it, it is so so...
So I thought in make mine on replace for the gussets. I started with wood sheets
(3), but is very difficult to make becuase it bends too much when I put the
adhessive, and are very heavy (i used epoxy). Then I try with 2 sheets of wood
and fiberglas in the middle... it look fin, and a last option with only three
layers of fiberglass.
The one with wood is very strong, the sandwich of wood and fiberglas is ok, and
the fiberglass only it is a little soft in bending (my english is very shot as
you can see).
Reading and googleing I find some articles where talk about even "paper" gussets,
so I have a big question and is "what are the gussets for (I suspect) ad how
hard have they be, in tension, compression, bending". What do you recommend?
May be I can use the 3mm plywood ?.. I want to understand the job the gussets
do in the rib.
Thank you, best regards.
mario
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| Subject: | Re: leading edge covering |
No, do not support the rear edge of the plywood. When you cover the wing
this will allow the plywood to deform slightly and make a smooth transition.
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jimbir
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 6:24 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: leading edge covering
Thanks for the replies. We'll probably go for the plywood.
One more question. Do you add filler strips to the top of the front spar
between the ribs so as to have something to attach the rear edge of the
covering to?
--------
Thanks, Jim Birke
Ira G. Ross Aerospace Museum
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311399#311399
Message 15
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Hi Mario,
If there is a hobby shop near you which sells radio control model airplanes and
supplies, 1.5mm plywood should be available there in smaller sheets. It will
be more expensive buying it this way than buying full sheets, but if full sheets
are not available then this might be your only option for getting the 1.5mm
plywood. The 3mm ply will add a LOT of additional weight to your wing ribs,
as there are a lot of gussets on each rib and there are 30 ribs to build...
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311408#311408
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