Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:09 AM - Re: Repairing wood screw holes (Jerry Dotson)
2. 04:10 AM - Re: Repairing wood screw holes (John Franklin)
3. 07:11 AM - Re: Repairing wood screw holes ()
4. 09:25 AM - the blonde Pietenpoler (Oscar Zuniga)
5. 09:35 AM - Re: Rudder horn hole spacing (Michael Perez)
6. 09:44 AM - Re: the blonde Pietenpoler (Gary Boothe)
7. 10:40 AM - Re: the blonde Pietenpoler (Ryan Mueller)
8. 01:05 PM - Re: the blonde Pietenpoler (j_dunavin)
9. 03:43 PM - worn out screw holes in wood (Douwe Blumberg)
10. 03:56 PM - Re: the blonde Pietenpoler (shad bell)
11. 03:58 PM - Re: worn out screw holes in wood (shad bell)
12. 04:48 PM - Re: Repairing wood screw holes (Rick Holland)
13. 05:43 PM - The Blonde Pietenpoler- Take II (Oscar Zuniga)
14. 06:56 PM - Re: The Blonde Pietenpoler- Take II (Jeff Boatright)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Repairing wood screw holes |
I agree with Billy on the CA glue. If it is stripped out bad put toothpicks in
the hole with the CA. Just let it cure real good before putting the screw back
in. It will make removal difficult if it is still wet
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
wing, tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316745#316745
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Repairing wood screw holes |
Steve,
You might try filling the holes with a steel-filled epoxy such as J-B Weld and
then re-drill them. I'd try it on one or two and see how it does.
Regards,
John F.
Richmond, TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Steve Ruse <steve@wotelectronics.com>
>Sent: Oct 22, 2010 11:28 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Repairing wood screw holes
>
>My 28 year old, 600 hour plane has a few screw holes that are wearing out. I
have a sheetmetal cover over the nose tank, screwed to the longerons on each side
with 3/8" long screws. Despite my best efforts to barely torque these screws,
some of them have become quite loose, and on my last flight I actually lost
a screw. So, it is time to fix them. What is the best technique here?
>
>Gluing a snug-fitting dowel rod into the hole, then cutting and sanding it flush
seems like it would work. Should I use T-88, or would Type II PVA (wood glue)
be good? Type II would be easier but if T-88 is better that is what I want.
I'd like the repairs to last another 30 years (or longer).
>
>It seems to me that it would be best not to drill out the holes, but instead to
use a snug wood dowel and leaving any remaining fibers inside the hole. Am
I wrong?
>
>Is there any reason I shouldn't use a hardwood dowel (like oak)? It seems like
this would give more durable, longer lasting screw holes/threads.
>
>Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
>
>Steve Ruse
>Norman, OK
________________________________________
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Repairing wood screw holes |
Go to www.mcmaster.com and search for inserts for wood. There is quite a va
riety and you can coat the outside
of the insert with glue to make sure it doesn't come out. You may have to u
se machine screws to hold your metal plate on but
it would be a permanent fix.
Rodney Hall
---- Steve Ruse <steve@wotelectronics.com> wrote:
>My 28 year old, 600 hour=C2-plane=C2-has a few screw holes that are we
aring out.=C2-=C2-I have a sheetmetal cover over the nose tank, screwed
to the longerons on each side with 3/8" long=C2-screws.=C2- Despite my
best efforts to barely torque these screws, some of them have become quite
loose, and on my last flight I actually lost a screw.=C2- So, it is time
to fix them.=C2- What is the best technique here?=C2-Gluing a snug-fit
ting dowel rod into the hole, then cutting and sanding it flush=C2-seems
like it would work.=C2- Should I use T-88, or would Type II PVA (wood glu
e) be good?=C2- Type II would be easier but if T-88 is better that is wha
t I want.=C2- I'd like the repairs to last another 30 years (or longer).
=C2-It seems to me that it would be best not to drill out the holes, but
instead to use a snug wood dowel and leaving any remaining fibers inside th
e hole.=C2- Am I wrong?=C2-Is there any reason I shouldn't use a hardwo
od dowel (like oak)?=C2- It seems like this would give more durable, long
er lasting=C2-screw holes/threads.=C2-Any other thoughts would be appre
=======
Message 4
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| Subject: | the blonde Pietenpoler |
We were unable to go to the Reklaw fly-in due to weather.
So, I wasted my time playing movie producer and came up
with a Pietenpol short-subject extra, 2:45 long:
http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7436957
Couldn't get my actors to pronounce the names properly
though...
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder horn hole spacing |
Thanks guys. I am fabricating my own tail wheel assembly now and wanted to know
the rudder horn size to gauge my tail wheel horn off of.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | the blonde Pietenpoler |
OK....now back to something unproductive! Oscar, you made my day...
Gary Boothe
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar Zuniga
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 9:15 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: the blonde Pietenpoler
We were unable to go to the Reklaw fly-in due to weather.
So, I wasted my time playing movie producer and came up
with a Pietenpol short-subject extra, 2:45 long:
http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7436957
Couldn't get my actors to pronounce the names properly
though...
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: the blonde Pietenpoler |
Hahahaha....nice job Oscar!
Ryan
do not archive
On Sat, Oct 23, 2010 at 11:15 AM, Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>
> We were unable to go to the Reklaw fly-in due to weather.
> So, I wasted my time playing movie producer and came up
> with a Pietenpol short-subject extra, 2:45 long:
>
> http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7436957
>
> Couldn't get my actors to pronounce the names properly
> though...
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: the blonde Pietenpoler |
"Crank Snapping Corvair" ??? :x
She just lost her chance.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316783#316783
Message 9
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| Subject: | worn out screw holes in wood |
I've heard the same fix (Frank Pavliga I think). Inject crazy glue/hot
stuff, (the thin stuff, not the gel) into the hole and let cure and I've
heard they're better than new as the wood is now much stronger.
Douwe
Do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: the blonde Pietenpoler |
That's a good one,- Jake thought he was watching cartoons.
-
Shad
We were unable to go to the Reklaw fly-in due to weather.
So, I wasted my time playing movie producer and came up
with a Pietenpol short-subject extra, 2:45 long:
http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7436957
Couldn't get my actors to pronounce the names properly
though...
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=0A=0A=0A
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: worn out screw holes in wood |
Model airplane "CA" glue works well to.
I=99ve heard the same fix (Frank Pavliga I think).=C2- Inject crazy
glue/hot stuff, (the thin stuff, not the gel) into the hole and let cure a
nd I=99ve heard they=99re better than new as the wood is now mu
ch stronger.
=C2-
Douwe
=C2-
Do not archive
=0A=0A=0A
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Repairing wood screw holes |
Or drill the hole a little bigger, screw in a barrel nut and use a machine
screw.
On Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 10:28 PM, Steve Ruse <steve@wotelectronics.com>wrote:
> My 28 year old, 600 hour plane has a few screw holes that are wearing
> out. I have a sheetmetal cover over the nose tank, screwed to the longerons
> on each side with 3/8" long screws. Despite my best efforts to barely
> torque these screws, some of them have become quite loose, and on my last
> flight I actually lost a screw. So, it is time to fix them. What is the
> best technique here?
>
> Gluing a snug-fitting dowel rod into the hole, then cutting and sanding it
> flush seems like it would work. Should I use T-88, or would Type II PVA
> (wood glue) be good? Type II would be easier but if T-88 is better that is
> what I want. I'd like the repairs to last another 30 years (or longer).
>
> It seems to me that it would be best not to drill out the holes, but
> instead to use a snug wood dowel and leaving any remaining fibers inside the
> hole. Am I wrong?
>
> Is there any reason I shouldn't use a hardwood dowel (like oak)? It seems
> like this would give more durable, longer lasting screw holes/threads.
>
> Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Steve Ruse
> Norman, OK
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 13
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| Subject: | The Blonde Pietenpoler- Take II |
Well, I've finally gotten my actors to get their pronunciations
straightened out, and the young lady has realized that there
are six jugs on a Corvair now...
http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7441025/
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: The Blonde Pietenpoler- Take II |
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