Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:55 AM - Re: Repairing wood screw holes (Gene Rambo)
2. 12:25 PM - Re: Repairing wood screw holes (Steve Ruse)
3. 05:13 PM - Re: Doin' Some Ribs (Clayton Harper)
4. 05:36 PM - Ribs and tail and questions (cjborsuk)
5. 05:49 PM - Re: Ribs and tail and questions (Gary Boothe)
6. 05:56 PM - Re: Another Piet roars to life! (899PM)
7. 05:58 PM - Re: Doin' Some Ribs (Tucker)
8. 07:38 PM - Re: worn out screw holes in wood (Billy McCaskill)
9. 07:54 PM - Re: Re: worn out screw holes in wood (Kip and Beth Gardner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Repairing wood screw holes |
The LAST thing you want to do is make the hole bigger or a stress riser. A
ll you need to do is have the screw have enough friction to get it to stay
in. Put some elmers glue on a kitchen match (preferably not the striking e
nd) and break it off in the hole. Has been the standard repair since Orvi
lle and Wilbur.
Gene
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Repairing wood screw holes
From: at7000ft@gmail.com
Or drill the hole a little bigger=2C screw in a barrel nut and use a machin
e screw.
On Fri=2C Oct 22=2C 2010 at 10:28 PM=2C Steve Ruse <steve@wotelectronics.co
m> wrote:
My 28 year old=2C 600 hour plane has a few screw holes that are wearing out
. I have a sheetmetal cover over the nose tank=2C screwed to the longerons
on each side with 3/8" long screws. Despite my best efforts to barely tor
que these screws=2C some of them have become quite loose=2C and on my last
flight I actually lost a screw. So=2C it is time to fix them. What is the
best technique here?
Gluing a snug-fitting dowel rod into the hole=2C then cutting and sanding i
t flush seems like it would work. Should I use T-88=2C or would Type II PV
A (wood glue) be good? Type II would be easier but if T-88 is better that
is what I want. I'd like the repairs to last another 30 years (or longer).
It seems to me that it would be best not to drill out the holes=2C but inst
ead to use a snug wood dowel and leaving any remaining fibers inside the ho
le. Am I wrong?
Is there any reason I shouldn't use a hardwood dowel (like oak)? It seems
like this would give more durable=2C longer lasting screw holes/threads.
Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Steve Ruse
Norman=2C OK
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock=2C Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers=2C that smell bad"
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Repairing wood screw holes |
I really like the idea of barrel nuts and machine screws. I hate to
remove any material from the longerons though, without knowing how much
is too much. I will look at the inserts to see what sizes are
available.
On several holes, the threads are pretty much gone. What if I insert a
hardwood dowel, sand flush, drill a hold, thread it with a screw, then
soak in CA glue to make the threads harder from the beginning? I did
catch Billy's note that end grain is not a good place for screw threads.
Thanks for the tips so far! This place has some invaluable information.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
From: Rick Holland
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Repairing wood screw holes
Or drill the hole a little bigger, screw in a barrel nut and use a
machine screw.
On Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 10:28 PM, Steve Ruse <steve@wotelectronics.com>
wrote:
My 28 year old, 600 hour plane has a few screw holes that are wearing
out. I have a sheetmetal cover over the nose tank, screwed to the
longerons on each side with 3/8" long screws. Despite my best efforts
to barely torque these screws, some of them have become quite loose, and
on my last flight I actually lost a screw. So, it is time to fix them.
What is the best technique here?
Gluing a snug-fitting dowel rod into the hole, then cutting and
sanding it flush seems like it would work. Should I use T-88, or would
Type II PVA (wood glue) be good? Type II would be easier but if T-88 is
better that is what I want. I'd like the repairs to last another 30
years (or longer).
It seems to me that it would be best not to drill out the holes, but
instead to use a snug wood dowel and leaving any remaining fibers inside
the hole. Am I wrong?
Is there any reason I shouldn't use a hardwood dowel (like oak)? It
seems like this would give more durable, longer lasting screw
holes/threads.
Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
Tucker,
It is great to see someone as you working on an airplane.
Don't worry about the nails. If they rusted and expanded to twice their volume
because their diameter is so small, it won't matter. That's not "gonna happen"
because the zinc will protect the nail. Anode/cathode.
The Captain? Does he still play the piano and wear the sailor hat?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316904#316904
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| Subject: | Ribs and tail and questions |
Just completed tail parts - ribs complete. See attached pics. I left off a couple
of the gussets to be able to get the hardware installed. Is this necessary?
What are the more popular options for the hinges?
Also, I was in Lowe's looking at varnish. What are the better options here? Has
anyone used water based varnish?
Thanks,
Chuck
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316905#316905
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/completed_ribs_771.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tail_and_ribs_204.jpg
Message 5
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| Subject: | Ribs and tail and questions |
Chuck,
You're thinking way ahead...good for you! You can see by the attached that I
just drilled a 1" access hole in those gussets that I needed access through.
I use Min-wax Spar Varnish.
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running!
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(22 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjborsuk
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 5:35 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Ribs and tail and questions
Just completed tail parts - ribs complete. See attached pics. I left off a
couple of the gussets to be able to get the hardware installed. Is this
necessary? What are the more popular options for the hinges?
Also, I was in Lowe's looking at varnish. What are the better options here?
Has anyone used water based varnish?
Thanks,
Chuck
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316905#316905
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/completed_ribs_771.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tail_and_ribs_204.jpg
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Another Piet roars to life! |
Mounted the new Winfield aluminum head yesterday and ran the Piet today. Saw 1960rpms
on the tach with my Sensenich 76-42. An even 100 rpm gain over the stock
cast iron head with no fine tuning yet. It may just be my imagination but it
seems to run more smoothly than before. I had to mill the head for piston clearance
as my pistons protrude .070" from the deck. I milled .040" clearance in
the head per advice from Larry Brumfield. Graphite gasket is .080". Fun stuff!
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316907#316907
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
No, Captain doesn't play any instrument, but he is a charter boat captain. He
takes people on fishing trips. I love to fish too.
--------
Tucker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316908#316908
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: worn out screw holes in wood |
Steve, how big are the holes you are trying to repair? Many woodworking stores
sell plug cutters which will allow you to cut wood plugs from the face grain
of a board instead of settling for end-grain dowels for plugging holes. I would
take a face grain plug over a dowel, but if the dowel is what you have to settle
for then by all means harden the threads in them with the CA glue. I think
that this fix should last you for many more years. I personally think that
wood screws driven into CA-hardened wood are probably less resistant to backing
out from vibration than machine screws driven into brass thread inserts.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316916#316916
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: worn out screw holes in wood |
Go with Gene Rambo's advice - it works, it's simple, it does not
create any risk of further weakening your longerons, and it can be
easily repeated in 20 years when you have to do it again. The only
thing I'd add is use Titebond 3 glue - much better than Elmer's, but
derived from it & nearly waterproof. I use it all the time for
structural repairs in non-aircraft applications & it's good stuff.
Kip Gardner
On Oct 24, 2010, at 10:34 PM, Billy McCaskill wrote:
> <billmz@cox.net>
>
> Steve, how big are the holes you are trying to repair? Many
> woodworking stores sell plug cutters which will allow you to cut
> wood plugs from the face grain of a board instead of settling for
> end-grain dowels for plugging holes. I would take a face grain
> plug over a dowel, but if the dowel is what you have to settle for
> then by all means harden the threads in them with the CA glue. I
> think that this fix should last you for many more years. I
> personally think that wood screws driven into CA-hardened wood are
> probably less resistant to backing out from vibration than machine
> screws driven into brass thread inserts.
>
> --------
> Billy McCaskill
> Urbana, IL
> tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316916#316916
>
>
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