Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:03 AM - Re: Resaw Options (Kringle)
2. 04:28 AM - Re: Resaw Options (Dangerous Dave)
3. 04:40 AM - Re: Resaw Options (Kringle)
4. 05:02 AM - Re: Getting started (helspersew@aol.com)
5. 05:18 AM - Re: Getting started (echobravo4)
6. 06:00 AM - Re: Resaw Options (bender)
7. 06:33 AM - Re: Resaw Options (gtche98)
8. 07:12 AM - Follow up to welding 4130 (Michael Perez)
9. 08:51 AM - Re: Model A disassembly, Chapter 1 (womenfly2)
10. 09:45 AM - HP being produced? (899PM)
11. 09:56 AM - Re: HP being produced? (helspersew@aol.com)
12. 01:08 PM - Re: Resaw Options (Ben Charvet)
13. 03:42 PM - Leading edge material (Robert Perry)
14. 03:49 PM - Re: Returned Mail: Leading edge material (dpilot88@earthlink.net)
15. 04:04 PM - Re: Leading edge material (Kenneth Howe)
16. 04:04 PM - Re: Resaw Options (Dangerous Dave)
17. 04:16 PM - Mike Cuy DVD (peterk48)
18. 04:39 PM - Re: t-88 mixing tubes (shad bell)
19. 09:08 PM - Re: Leading edge material (Billy McCaskill)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
I looked at the same thing. I purchased some wood from mcmcormick but decided
to save it for some of the bigger sticks needed. Ordered enough capstrip to do
my ribs from aircraft Spruce last week.
--------
John
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Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
Hi,I cut all my capstrips and milled them.Takes 86 to do the 3 piece wing.I used
1 1/2- 2"x9"x6' rough cut sitka.You loose about half the wood and it takes about
4 hours.Make sure you have the grain laying correctly for a capstrip.
--------
Building a Piet
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Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
What is the correct grain orientation for capstrip?
--------
John
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Subject: | Re: Getting started |
Jeff,
Good for you. A good start on a long, but immensely satisfying road. Keep
at it little by little. I'll see you at Brodhead.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: bender <jfaith@solairusaviation.com>
Sent: Mon, Oct 25, 2010 6:33 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Getting started
m>
Well I just had to tell someone.. after having a new resaw blade made for
my
ntique bandsaw.. and a couple of new tires.. it roared, well, hummed to li
fe
nd i got 75 sticks 6 foot long and 1/2 x 1/4 cut out today.. got my jig
ogether a few days ago.. i feel like i'm about to officially start
uilding..big pile of saw dust
Jeff :D
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Subject: | Re: Getting started |
kevinpurtee wrote:
> Nice, congrats! There are not too many things better then popping out that first
rib.
>
> Axel
Well the LAST one feels pretty good too!
do not archive
--------
Earl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I
intended to be.
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Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
U picked up five 6 foot long 5/4 x 4 boards... ripped them just over a half inch..
then ripped each half by 5/4 piece into 1/4x1/2 .. i think i have enough..stopped
counting after 80 pieces. i used a 3/4 blade with 10 teeth per inch
on my band saw
jeff
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Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
Thanks to all for your ideas. Couple of things:
John - I think you bring up a very good point about the work that goes into making
your own capstrip. I may end up using McCormick for all the wood but the cap
strip and just order that from aircraft spruce.
Dave - I am by no means an expert, but is your grain running the right way? I would
have thought you would want it running in the other direction for strength.
Jeff - great info. You are the first I have heard mention 5/4 lumber. Was it a
full 5/4? Did you get it from McCormick? If I could get 5/4, I would feel much
more confident in resawing 3 1/4" sections out of the thickness of the board.
Gary
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Subject: | Follow up to welding 4130 |
Since reviewing the replies on here to my first 4130/SS welding post and looking
around on the web, I understand now why welding the two is a bad idea. Most
places I saw said then even if welding SS to SS, you should have a professional
do it, if possible. (Which I am not)
I thought I had heard that you cane weld metals with SS filler, maybe that started
the confusion I had with welding SS to other metals.
Anyhoo, the short of it is I am square now and fabricating. Thanks for the advice.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Model A disassembly, Chapter 1 |
If the engine quits at 500 ft on takeoff, you'll wish you completely disassembled
it.
My "A" had a fiber gear. No issues with the teeth.
--------
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Subject: | HP being produced? |
Can anyone comment on approx HP being produced by my Model A turning a 76-42 wooden
prop @ 1960 rpms?
What about actual thrust? Has anyone measured thrust accurately?
--------
PAPA MIKE
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Subject: | Re: HP being produced? |
I measured my full-power static thrust at 260 lbs with an "industrial" fis
h scale. My prop is 76/46. Static RPM is 1860.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: 899PM <rockriverrifle@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Oct 26, 2010 11:43 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: HP being produced?
Can anyone comment on approx HP being produced by my Model A turning a 76-
42
ooden prop @ 1960 rpms?
What about actual thrust? Has anyone measured thrust accurately?
--------
APA MIKE
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Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
My Piet is all Douglas Fir, but I bought 1 x 6 boards (finished out to
about 3/4 in) then planed them down to 1/2 inch, then ripped the 1/4 rib
caps. I bought my rib boards at Lowe's over a period of months to find
the best close grained boards, and most had horizontal grain. After I
cut my strips most had end grain and came out nice. Lots cheaper than
ordering cap strips too.
Ben
On 10/25/2010 10:30 PM, gtche98 wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "gtche98"<gtche98@gmail.com>
>
> Question for those that milled their own cap strip, or are more experienced in
resawing than I am. I have been thinking lately about purchasing my spruce
from McCormick in Madison, and understand that they are selling 1" thick rough
cut.
>
> If that is the case, how many "layers" of cap strip could I resaw out of a 1"
thick board? I know I could get 2. Is it possible (for an amateur) to get 3
layers? With the thickness of the band saw blade, and the need to run everything
through the planner, I am worried that 3/32" of waste between layers wont
be enough. See attached picture that shows what I am talking about.
>
> Thanks in advance for your expertise!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317044#317044
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/resaw_options_232.jpg
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Leading edge material |
I am laying out my full size rib diagram for the GAU 612 airfoil and I
was wondering what most people are using for leading and trailing edge
material. Ready to buy some spruce and get going!
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Returned Mail: Leading edge material |
I apologize for this automatic reply to your email.
To control spam, I now allow incoming messages only from senders I
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If you would like to be added to my list of approved senders, please
fill out the short request form (see link below). Once I approve you,
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Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Leading edge material |
I haven't gotten the LE/TE material yet. When the time comes I will probably look
at the using a piece of molding from Home Despot (or other DIY big-box store)
for the TE. It's been talked about here in the past if you search the archives.
I'm not sure if the ripped section from a stair railing will work as well for the
Riblett LE section as it has for people building the original Piet section.
If that doesn't work then I'll probably search the lumber stacks to find some
straight grain fir or hemlock and plane it to shape. Use a table saw to rip it
close to shape then hand-plane it to the final contour. After finally learning
how to correctly sharpen and set up a hand plane a few years ago in a class
by a local furniture builder, I look forward to planing the leading edge. What
better way to make some parts for your plane than with a plane?
Ken
On Oct 26, 2010, at 3:40 PM, Robert Perry wrote:
>
> I am laying out my full size rib diagram for the GAU 612 airfoil and I was wondering
what most people are using for leading and trailing edge material. Ready
to buy some spruce and get going!
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
Hi,The grain should run as shown in the picture.The compresive strength is
that way.That is how it is shown in the old CAA and FAA books,Runs just like your
spar.Your wing needs compresive strength.I have seen it run the other way and
it cracks along the grain lines and the ribs can split.Hope this helps.Dave
--------
Building a Piet
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Message 17
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Since I was prompt to announce on here that my first "Cuy" DVD did not work, I
think it only fair to make sure everyone knows that Mike sent me a new one today.
I am enjoying it as you read. Thanks Mike
--------
Pete
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317144#317144
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Subject: | Re: t-88 mixing tubes |
Are they the "swirly" mixing tubes where you use epoxy cartriges, and a gun
?- We have those at work, they are nice, but would waste a lot building r
ibs.- The glue sets up in the mixing tubes and they are a 1 time use.-
They would be nice however doing something like the plywood sides on the fu
selage.
-
Shad
--- On Mon, 10/25/10, bcolleran <bcolleran@comcast.net> wrote:
From: bcolleran <bcolleran@comcast.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: t-88 mixing tubes
Anyone ever use the t-88 mixing tubes that is advertised on aircraft spruce
?- I am gonna try to spend a little more time at the house vs the hangar
building the ribs this winter.- I have everything cut out and would enjoy
something that was not too messy to work with while sitting on the couch w
atching TV with the wife.
Bill
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317031#317031
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Leading edge material |
I did a most of the shaping of my leading and trainling edges on the tail section
with a hand plane. I roughed it in close to shape on the table saw, and then
finalized it with a small, very sharp and nicely tuned plane and did it in
very short order. Probably a lot quicker than trying to clamp everything down
and set up a router to to shape the parts. Using a sharp and tuned up hand plane
is a very satisfying thing in and of itself, but even more so when using
it to build airplane parts!
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
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