Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:04 AM - Re: RV10-List: Airfoil Drag Video... (GliderMike)
2. 12:09 AM - Re: Please Check My Math (alum.wing strut) (Clif Dawson)
3. 01:33 AM - Flying with no lift struts (Lawrence Williams)
4. 05:23 AM - Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (amsafetyc@aol.com)
5. 05:46 AM - Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (Kip and Beth Gardner)
6. 06:32 AM - Re: LG at last (TOM STINEMETZE)
7. 07:01 AM - Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (Bill Church)
8. 07:02 AM - Complexity (Charles Campbell)
9. 07:10 AM - Re: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (Gboothe5)
10. 07:13 AM - Re: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (Charles Campbell)
11. 07:45 AM - Re: Complexity (Michael Perez)
12. 07:56 AM - Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (dgaldrich)
13. 08:06 AM - Re: Complexity (Rick Holland)
14. 08:39 AM - Re: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (Kip and Beth Gardner)
15. 08:51 AM - Re: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (AMsafetyC@aol.com)
16. 08:53 AM - Re: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (gboothe5@comcast.net)
17. 09:03 AM - Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (Piet2112)
18. 09:12 AM - Re: Please Check My Math (alum.wing strut) (Dennis Vetter)
19. 09:50 AM - Re: Complexity (Charles Campbell)
20. 10:09 AM - Re: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (Kip and Beth Gardner)
21. 10:24 AM - Acceptable tolerances (Kringle)
22. 10:26 AM - Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (DOMIT)
23. 10:53 AM - Re: Acceptable tolerances (Jack Phillips)
24. 01:26 PM - Re: Acceptable tolerances (KM Heide CPO/FAAOP)
25. 02:11 PM - Re: Acceptable tolerances (Charles Campbell)
26. 02:14 PM - Re: Complexity (Charles Campbell)
27. 02:42 PM - Re: Acceptable tolerances (Bill Church)
28. 02:45 PM - Trim set ups (brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com)
29. 02:50 PM - Re: Acceptable tolerances (Michael Perez)
30. 03:13 PM - Re: Trim set ups (helspersew@aol.com)
31. 04:41 PM - Re: Corvair Challenges and 5th Bearing (RBush96589@aol.com)
32. 04:47 PM - Re: Corvair Valve issue (kevinpurtee)
33. 04:48 PM - What luck . . . (tdudley@umn.edu)
34. 04:56 PM - Re: definition of UHMW for Ray (tdudley@umn.edu)
35. 05:07 PM - Re: Re: definition of UHMW for Ray (Ray Krause)
36. 05:08 PM - Re: What luck . . . (gboothe5@comcast.net)
37. 05:13 PM - Re: Corvair Valve issue (skellytown flyer)
38. 06:11 PM - How about this idea? (Bill Church)
39. 06:14 PM - Re: Trim set ups (Rick Holland)
40. 06:27 PM - Re: How about this idea? (Ryan Mueller)
41. 06:45 PM - Re: How about this idea? (Jack)
42. 07:06 PM - Re: Trim set ups (Kip and Beth Gardner)
43. 07:49 PM - Re: Trim set ups (brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com)
44. 07:49 PM - Re: How about this idea? (kevinpurtee)
45. 07:56 PM - Re: How about this idea? (Bill Church)
46. 08:11 PM - Re: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (Clif Dawson)
47. 09:32 PM - Re: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (Kimball Isaac)
48. 11:30 PM - Re: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting (Clif Dawson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List: Airfoil Drag Video... |
Cover the wheels to eliminate the drag from the spokes. It works wonders on reducing
the drag. Most difficult thing about a cover, is doing a clean attachment
that is also easy to remove and put back on. I have a cover for the rear
wheel on one of my bicycles, and one side had a drum brake on it. It was difficult
to get the drum off to be able to R&R the cover on that side. The covered
wheels are more in keeping with "The Look" anyway. Makes it even more of a
chick magnet. I'm so far from the time I will need to be thinking about wheels,
I'm not concerned about the engineering to do the wheel covers yet. I was
going to have some wood for ribs ordered by now, but someone ran a red light,
totaled my car, and kept on going, which sort of put a crunch in the finances
again. I think I was lucky on the deal, cause they hit me probably doing 40 to
50 mph, at my door, and I never showed any signs of bruises or neck pain or
any other problems. The police found the car, but no occupants. The people in
the car that hit me didn't come out as well as I did, as there were 2 serious
dents in the windshield from the inside. The police said they were surprised
the people didn't end up in the hospital.
--------
HOMEBUILDER
Will WORK for Spruce
Long flights, smooth air, and soft landings,
GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326645#326645
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| Subject: | Re: Please Check My Math (alum.wing strut) |
No. If you look at the chart I sent the left end is the ROOT end at the
fuselage. The air flowing over the wing is
also flowing outwards on the bottom and inwards on the
top which is where tip votices come from. The air gets
to the tip, flows out from underneath, rolls over the top
and spirals rearwards. It's actualy doing this a little bit
all the way along but nothing like at the tip. So some of
the lift near and at the tip is compromised.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mF54SvC5ZAs
Clif
This would also imply that there is not as much lift generated at the
root either. This would mean that most of the lift would be generated in
the middle 80% (paredo principle anyone.) Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
Message 3
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| Subject: | Flying with no lift struts |
I remember the story about flying without lift struts from my early days at
B'head sitting around with the pioneers. Seems like their point was that the
cross cables were for the lifting loads (+g's) and the struts were for landing
loads (-G's). The claim was that if the lift struts fell off in flight, the
airframe wouldn't know the difference but the landing would have to be buttery
smooth (like mine) to keep the wing from collapsing.
Please DO NOT RESPOND TO THIS POST!!
Also; do not archive.
Larry
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
That wasn't in the drawing just something I decided to do as a safety
precaution
John
Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
-----Original message-----
From: Owen Davies <owen5819@comcast.net>
Sent: Wed, Jan 12, 2011 05:10:15 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting
On 1/11/2011 11:36 PM, amsafetyc@aol.com wrote:
> Which is the reason for embedded metal at each end and midway not
> halfway points able to hold thru bolting with less chance of tearing
> out. Taking advantage of experienced builder comments on setting up a
> vibration at jury strut location half way rather than a sorta midway
> offset position.
Sorry, I must have missed something in the drawing.
Owen
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
In response to some of the comments re the bolt pattern, embedded
steel, etc. Michael said this was a preliminary drawing and I take it
as such, but the concept is sound, I think.
As for embedding steel in the wood strut, unless you were going to do
that the entire length of the strut and use only the steel for
attachment, what would be the point? Would not short lengths of steel
be as prone to tear-out as the bolts? You could epoxy them in I
suppose, but I've never been that impressed with the bonding strength
of epoxy to steel. If you went with full length steel, what's the
point to wood struts except appearance?
As I stated in my original post asking bout this option, I'm making
laminated struts with embedded carbon fiber running the length of the
strut and additional fiber running 90 degrees to that at the ends. Of
course there will be jury struts. Laminations will probably be done
with West System epoxy. Does anyone find fault with that approach?
KIp Gardner
On Jan 11, 2011, at 9:05 PM, Michael Perez wrote:
> For whomever it was asking, here is a simple drawing of a simple
> idea. There is a lot of room for change and improvement here, this
> was what I came up with right off the bat.
>
> Michael Perez
> Karetaker Aero
> www.karetakeraero.com
> <Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting.JPG>
Message 6
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Ben:
Here is what you are looking for: This should be permanently posted
somewhere - EVERYBODY should visit with Ken at least once.
Ken Perkins 1480 Martway Olathe, Ks. 66061 (913) 764 6949 kenandvernaperkin
s(at)sbcglobal.net
Tom
>>> Ben Charvet <bencharvet@gmail.com> 1/11/2011 6:20 PM >>>
Do you have any contact info for Ken? I noticed that Wag-Aero has struts
for around $289, but I'd rather give Ken the business.
Ben
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
Kip wrote:
"If you went with full length steel, what's the point to wood struts except appearance?"
Well, IS there another reason to go with wood struts, other than appearance?
Don't get me wrong, I really like the look of wood struts, and I have an idea that
I think will work, but need to prove it out before sharing it with everyone.
I just don't know of a reason why anyone would use wood struts rather than
steel, other than for appearance.
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326666#326666
Message 8
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I don't see the need for all the discussion about wing-strut adjustment
forks. Bernie's plans don't show any adjustment forks in the wing
struts. He just put the wing in the position he wanted it, measured the
distance between the attachment bolts at each end, and cut the strut to
the proper length and installed it.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
Is it not possible to just copy what has been successfully used already?
Gary Boothe
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Church
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:00 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting
Kip wrote:
"If you went with full length steel, what's the point to wood struts except
appearance?"
Well, IS there another reason to go with wood struts, other than appearance?
Don't get me wrong, I really like the look of wood struts, and I have an
idea that I think will work, but need to prove it out before sharing it with
everyone. I just don't know of a reason why anyone would use wood struts
rather than steel, other than for appearance.
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326666#326666
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
Why not just glue 1/16" plywood on metal struts if appearance is all you're
interested in?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Church" <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:59 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting
> <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
>
> Kip wrote:
> "If you went with full length steel, what's the point to wood struts
> except appearance?"
>
> Well, IS there another reason to go with wood struts, other than
> appearance?
> Don't get me wrong, I really like the look of wood struts, and I have an
> idea that I think will work, but need to prove it out before sharing it
> with everyone. I just don't know of a reason why anyone would use wood
> struts rather than steel, other than for appearance.
>
> Bill C.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326666#326666
>
>
>
Message 11
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You are correct Charles. However, those "as drawn" struts are steel and hav
e re-enforcing washers welded around the bolt holes. The hole is set back 3
/4" from the end. (Which you may already know.)- My first issue is my alu
minum struts. I can mount the strut as drawn, but in that fashion, the alum
inum will not be strong enough.- I need to find another means to do so an
d as most, I figured I would make it adjustable for dihedral, or other twea
king.
-
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
I believe Douwe Blumberg has a rather hard earned but useful data point on the
strength of wooden struts. I certainly don't have any idea of the severity of
the ground loop/nose-over but the struts (cabanes and wing) apparently didn't
fail. Maybe he can give us some more info. Nothing like a real life data point.
Dave Aldrich
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326680#326680
Message 13
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Some people (like me) added an adjustable fork on the bottom of the rear
flying strut allowing minor adjustments for washout or to just equalize
incidence on both sides. (Of course without any adjustment you can remake
strut end fittings if adjustment is needed).
On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 7:56 AM, Charles Campbell <cncampbell@windstream.net
> wrote:
> I don't see the need for all the discussion about wing-strut adjustment
> forks. Bernie's plans don't show any adjustment forks in the wing struts.
> He just put the wing in the position he wanted it, measured the distance
> between the attachment bolts at each end, and cut the strut to the proper
> length and installed it.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
No Charles, you missed my point, appearance is not just what I'm interested in,
although it is a factor. I want to use wood struts, not just have the appearance
of wood, and I like laminations both for appearance and because they are
stronger and it's easier to get a uniform final product. I generally don't like
metal, it gives me the heebie jeebies to work with. I know it's unavoidable
in building an airplane, but I like and prefer working with wood where possible.
Gary, there are scant examples of wood struts on Piets out there, and none that
I've seen that I'm entirely happy with.
KIp Gardner
On Jan 12, 2011, at 10:11 AM, Charles Campbell wrote:
>
> Why not just glue 1/16" plywood on metal struts if appearance is all you're interested
in?
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Church" <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:59 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting
>
>
>>
>> Kip wrote:
>> "If you went with full length steel, what's the point to wood struts except
appearance?"
>>
>> Well, IS there another reason to go with wood struts, other than appearance?
>> Don't get me wrong, I really like the look of wood struts, and I have an idea
that I think will work, but need to prove it out before sharing it with everyone.
I just don't know of a reason why anyone would use wood struts rather than
steel, other than for appearance.
>>
>> Bill C.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326666#326666
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
Not proposing to get involved within a contest of urination and whom can
higher on the fire hydrant,
I am using laminated wooden struts with steel embedded at what I alone
considered critical points. Not that it matters much however when you add a
piece of steel that is glued in with epoxy. I like the appearance of wood over
full steel along with the cost of the laminated wood over aluminum so
wood appeals to my aesthetic, economical and style needs as a slave to
fashion. The embedded steel is 8 inches long and will be thru bolted at the top
before being bolted to the mounting as such, will reduce the likelihood of
splitting out at the mounting point closer to the end of the strut. Now
because I prefer the look of wood in this application, the lamination is of
whit ash and black walnut which matches all of the other outside wooden style
components. For which I was sharing what I was doing as opposed to looking
for conscious opinion of approval.
So the point is, I like it, the metal extends bell above the attachment
point and the thru bolting adds a margin of safety, which in my own mind
reduces the remote possibility of breaking out holes at the lower end mounting
point. This is all designed to provide me, piece of mind. Ultimately its my
airplane, my decision and obviously I really have no particular bent on
arguing the point, however if I get into a situation where the airframe is
being stressed in excess of the tear out of 8 inches of steel thru bolted to
wooden struts at 2 locations with appropriately sized AN bolts and nuts,
than I have much bigger issues to contend with; for which aluminum struts,
carbon fiber, full length embedded metal or and any other strut material
combination cannot and or will not provide any better of a solution.
Of course ruling out the possibility of missing the trap on the 4 wire
and bolting to a missed trap go around. Fortunately I have yet to do that so
am feeling rather confident in my strut plans.
John
In a message dated 1/12/2011 10:02:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
billspiet@sympatico.ca writes:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Bill Church"
<billspiet@sympatico.ca>
Kip wrote:
"If you went with full length steel, what's the point to wood struts
except appearance?"
Well, IS there another reason to go with wood struts, other than
appearance?
Don't get me wrong, I really like the look of wood struts, and I have an
idea that I think will work, but need to prove it out before sharing it with
everyone. I just don't know of a reason why anyone would use wood struts
rather than steel, other than for appearance.
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326666#326666
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
Douwe, John Greenlee, and, more recently, the notorius Axel Purtee, just to name
a few, all have functioning attachments for wood struts. Since I'm not educated
enough to figure out such things, I'll just copy what's already flying, but
will be interested in seeing what you come up with.
Gary
Sent on the Sprint Now Network from my BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth@earthlink.net>
Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
No Charles, you missed my point, appearance is not just what I'm interested in,
although it is a factor. I want to use wood struts, not just have the appearance
of wood, and I like laminations both for appearance and because they are
stronger and it's easier to get a uniform final product. I generally don't like
metal, it gives me the heebie jeebies to work with. I know it's unavoidable
in building an airplane, but I like and prefer working with wood where possible.
Gary, there are scant examples of wood struts on Piets out there, and none that
I've seen that I'm entirely happy with.
KIp Gardner
On Jan 12, 2011, at 10:11 AM, Charles Campbell wrote:
>
> Why not just glue 1/16" plywood on metal struts if appearance is all you're interested
in?
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Church" <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:59 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting
>
>
>>
>> Kip wrote:
>> "If you went with full length steel, what's the point to wood struts except
appearance?"
>>
>> Well, IS there another reason to go with wood struts, other than appearance?
>> Don't get me wrong, I really like the look of wood struts, and I have an idea
that I think will work, but need to prove it out before sharing it with everyone.
I just don't know of a reason why anyone would use wood struts rather than
steel, other than for appearance.
>>
>> Bill C.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326666#326666
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
Michael,
Here are some photos of Kevin Purtee's Fat Bottom Girl that may help.
Curt Merdan
Flower Mound, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326700#326700
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_1161_113.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_1160_203.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_1145_100.jpg
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Please Check My Math (alum.wing strut) |
I've heard several times that on a pietenpol the front and rear spars and stuts
carry about the same load. :? [/b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326701#326701
Message 19
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----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Complexity
Some people (like me) added an adjustable fork on the bottom of the
rear flying strut allowing minor adjustments for washout or to just
equalize incidence on both sides. (Of course without any adjustment you
can remake strut end fittings if adjustment is needed).
On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 7:56 AM, Charles Campbell
<cncampbell@windstream.net> wrote:
I don't see the need for all the discussion about wing-strut
adjustment forks. Bernie's plans don't show any adjustment forks in the
wing struts. He just put the wing in the position he wanted it,
measured the distance between the attachment bolts at each end, and cut
the strut to the proper length and installed it.
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
Thanks Curt!
Kip G.
On Jan 12, 2011, at 12:00 PM, Piet2112 wrote:
>
> Michael,
>
> Here are some photos of Kevin Purtee's Fat Bottom Girl that may help.
>
> Curt Merdan
> Flower Mound, TX
>
>
>
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> Attachments:
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Acceptable tolerances |
When working with the wood portion of a Pietenpol, what are the acceptable tolerances?
I've always heard;
Home builder 1/4 inch
Cabinet maker 1/8
Furniture Builder 1/16
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326719#326719
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
I have seen that aircraft in person, and I can absolutely assure you that the pics
do NOT do it justice. It is a beautiful airplane!
--------
Brad "DOMIT" Smith
First rule of ground school: This is the ground... don't hit it going fast.
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| Subject: | Acceptable tolerances |
All I can tell you is that when I was working on the F-16 Fighting Falcon
design back in the mid '70's, the standard tolerance was +/- .030". Tight
tolerances were +/- .010" and required considerable justification. If such
tolerances are good enough for a supersonic jet fighter, they should be
sufficient for a Pietenpol.
Acceptable tolerances are whatever you accept, depending on the materials in
question. If using T-88, a gap in the joint of up to 1/32" is acceptable.
If using Resorcinol, that is unacceptable and will produce a very weak
joint.
The tolerance also depends on the measurement in question. For example, in
making fittings, I would try to make them as accurate as possible and threw
some out that were off by .020" in hole position. But when rigging the
wings on my Pietenpol, I got the distance from wingtip to tailpost to be
within about 1/16" of each other and was delighted to have it that close.
Just remember that building an airplane is largely a series of alignment
exercises. The more accurately you make the individual components, the
easier the alignment will be.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP "Icarus Plummet"
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 1:22 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable tolerances
When working with the wood portion of a Pietenpol, what are the acceptable
tolerances? I've always heard;
Home builder 1/4 inch
Cabinet maker 1/8
Furniture Builder 1/16
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326719#326719
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable tolerances |
Pietenpol builder 1/32"
--- On Wed, 1/12/11, Kringle <Mrkringles@msn.com> wrote:
> From: Kringle <Mrkringles@msn.com>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable tolerances
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2011, 12:22 PM
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted
> by: "Kringle" <Mrkringles@msn.com>
>
> When working with the wood portion of a Pietenpol, what are
> the acceptable tolerances? I've always heard;
>
> Home builder 1/4 inch
> Cabinet maker 1/8
> Furniture Builder 1/16
>
> --------
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326719#326719
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Email Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable tolerances |
Jack, I once (a long time ago) took an aeronautical drafting course and our
drafting had to be +/- 0.040 inch. That's a bit closer than most of the
Pietenpol drawings.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable tolerances
> <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
>
>
> All I can tell you is that when I was working on the F-16 Fighting Falcon
> design back in the mid '70's, the standard tolerance was +/- .030". Tight
> tolerances were +/- .010" and required considerable justification. If
> such
> tolerances are good enough for a supersonic jet fighter, they should be
> sufficient for a Pietenpol.
>
> Acceptable tolerances are whatever you accept, depending on the materials
> in
> question. If using T-88, a gap in the joint of up to 1/32" is acceptable.
> If using Resorcinol, that is unacceptable and will produce a very weak
> joint.
>
> The tolerance also depends on the measurement in question. For example,
> in
> making fittings, I would try to make them as accurate as possible and
> threw
> some out that were off by .020" in hole position. But when rigging the
> wings on my Pietenpol, I got the distance from wingtip to tailpost to be
> within about 1/16" of each other and was delighted to have it that close.
>
> Just remember that building an airplane is largely a series of alignment
> exercises. The more accurately you make the individual components, the
> easier the alignment will be.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP "Icarus Plummet"
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 1:22 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable tolerances
>
>
> When working with the wood portion of a Pietenpol, what are the acceptable
> tolerances? I've always heard;
>
> Home builder 1/4 inch
> Cabinet maker 1/8
> Furniture Builder 1/16
>
> --------
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326719#326719
>
>
>
Message 26
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I know the PA22/20 that I rebuilt back in the 80's had an adjustable
fitting on the rear struts. Had to use them when cranking in the
washout in the wing tips.
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Campbell
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Complexity
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Complexity
Some people (like me) added an adjustable fork on the bottom of the
rear flying strut allowing minor adjustments for washout or to just
equalize incidence on both sides. (Of course without any adjustment you
can remake strut end fittings if adjustment is needed).
On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 7:56 AM, Charles Campbell
<cncampbell@windstream.net> wrote:
I don't see the need for all the discussion about wing-strut
adjustment forks. Bernie's plans don't show any adjustment forks in the
wing struts. He just put the wing in the position he wanted it,
measured the distance between the attachment bolts at each end, and cut
the strut to the proper length and installed it.
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable tolerances |
I don't think there can be one general tolerance for everything on the whole project.
The fuselage could be plus or minus a half inch (in length or width) and it wouldn't
really make a difference. But if your top cross pieces were 1/8" longer
or shorter than the bottom cross pieces, then your fuselage wouldn't be "square",
as it needs to be. Similarly, if the rib profile is out by 1/8", it could
potentially affect the aerodynamics of the wing. On the other hand, if the chord
of the wing ended up 1/4" big or small, the difference wouldn't be noticeable.
Or if the wingspan was 2" longer than expected, it would likely have no ill
effects.
The more accurately that the parts are made, the better they will all fit together,
and the happier you'll be.
More important than dimensional accuracy is dimensional consistency.
Additionally, keeping things square (where they are supposed to be square) and
symmetrical is extremely important.
Bill C.
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326746#326746
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I believe it's time for a fresh thread.......... Could those of you with
trim systems "flying and not" please post pics of your trim tab, and
your trim adjustment mechanism in the cockpit. Thanks.
Brian
SLC-UT
Message 29
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| Subject: | Acceptable tolerances |
To expand a little on that...most of the machining jobs I have done for work had
a tolerance of about .010". As noted, it all depended on the material and the
parts function. If one part needed to fit within another, they would specify,
say, +.010, -.005...to avoid binding of the two parts.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
--- On Wed, 1/12/11, Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> From: Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable tolerances
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2011, 1:50 PM
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted
> by: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
>
>
> All I can tell you is that when I was working on the F-16
> Fighting Falcon
> design back in the mid '70's, the standard tolerance was
> +/- .030". Tight
> tolerances were +/- .010" and required considerable
> justification. If such
> tolerances are good enough for a supersonic jet fighter,
> they should be
> sufficient for a Pietenpol.
>
> Acceptable tolerances are whatever you accept, depending on
> the materials in
> question. If using T-88, a gap in the joint of up to
> 1/32" is acceptable.
> If using Resorcinol, that is unacceptable and will produce
> a very weak
> joint.
>
> The tolerance also depends on the measurement in
> question. For example, in
> making fittings, I would try to make them as accurate as
> possible and threw
> some out that were off by .020" in hole position. But
> when rigging the
> wings on my Pietenpol, I got the distance from wingtip to
> tailpost to be
> within about 1/16" of each other and was delighted to have
> it that close.
>
> Just remember that building an airplane is largely a series
> of alignment
> exercises. The more accurately you make the
> individual components, the
> easier the alignment will be.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP "Icarus Plummet"
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]
> On Behalf Of Kringle
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 1:22 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Acceptable tolerances
>
>
> When working with the wood portion of a Pietenpol, what are
> the acceptable
> tolerances? I've always heard;
>
> Home builder 1/4 inch
> Cabinet maker 1/8
> Furniture Builder 1/16
>
> --------
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326719#326719
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Email Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Trim set ups |
My airplane is flying, and I really like Jack Phillip's trim system. Mine w
orks OK, but if I had seen his first I would have gone in more of that dire
ction.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: brian.e.jardine <brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com>
Sent: Wed, Jan 12, 2011 4:45 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Trim set ups
I believe it=99s time for a fresh thread.
Could those of you with trim systems =9Cflying and not=9D plea
se post pics of your trim tab, and your trim adjustment mechanism in the co
ckpit. Thanks.
Brian
SLC-UT
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
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-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
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-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
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| Subject: | Re: Corvair Challenges and 5th Bearing |
Hi Shad,
sorry to be so long to reply.I just got back home from a run down to FL.
and AL. It's back been back together and running since the corvair college
down in SC that P F Beck and the gang at Barnwell airport hosted.Really a
fun weekend and a good bunch of folks down there.I plan on going to Brodhead
also so see you there.
Randy Bush
do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Corvair Valve issue |
Hi Shad - I will certainly try that before I yank the head! I've run 100LL through
the motor exclusively.
Forgive a dumb question, please: pull the plug, remove the valve keeper, push the
valve into the cylinder a little bit, apply the valve compound around the seat
(with what?), then move the valve against the seat in a circle? You know
a lot more about mechanicin' than I do.
I have every intention of making Brodhead. The only thing that would screw it
up is work, but hopefully it'll happen. Going to do my best.
Thanks,
Kevin
--------
Kevin "Axel" Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
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Message 33
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I started building this fall and have the ribs almost done (5 left) and finished
rabbetting the wood for the tail-section this past weekend. I've been a bit
worried about welding and the metal parts since I've no real experience in this.
My wife showed me a flyer for a community-ed class called "Intro to Welding".
Figured it would be something to at least try. Last evening I went to the
first class and struck up a conversation with the instructor, a professional
blacksmith who works out of his own shop. I could hardly believe it when I
found out he lives a block away and I've been passing his house every day for
the last 3 years without knowing. I can hardly believe my luck--I will only have
to walk down the street to get help with the metal fittings!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326771#326771
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| Subject: | Re: definition of UHMW for Ray |
UHMW polyethylene is used in total knee and hip replacements. I've put a bit of
those parts together over the last few years.
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| Subject: | Re: definition of UHMW for Ray |
Thanks! When I use it, I will keep some for my hip replacement. What
tolerances do I need to meet for that?
Ray Krause
----- Original Message -----
From: <tdudley@umn.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 4:53 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: definition of UHMW for Ray
>
> UHMW polyethylene is used in total knee and hip replacements. I've put a
> bit of those parts together over the last few years.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326772#326772
>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: What luck . . . |
Tdudley,
You are indeed lucky! And I predict that, of all the new skills many of us have
to accomplish, you will most enjoy overcoming your welding deficiencies! It's
a great feeling to look proudly on your own work, even if it isn't perfect.
Happy building,
Gary Boothe
------Original Message------
From: tdudley@umn.edu
Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: What luck . . .
Sent: Jan 12, 2011 4:46 PM
I started building this fall and have the ribs almost done (5 left) and finished
rabbetting the wood for the tail-section this past weekend. I've been a bit
worried about welding and the metal parts since I've no real experience in this.
My wife showed me a flyer for a community-ed class called "Intro to Welding".
Figured it would be something to at least try. Last evening I went to the
first class and struck up a conversation with the instructor, a professional
blacksmith who works out of his own shop. I could hardly believe it when I
found out he lives a block away and I've been passing his house every day for
the last 3 years without knowing. I can hardly believe my luck--I will only have
to walk down the street to get help with the metal fittings!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326771#326771
Sent on the Sprint Now Network from my BlackBerry
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Corvair Valve issue |
another thing that could possibly break it up is to try and press the valve in
against the spring and let it snap shut a few times. I believe the aircraft mechanics
do that at times on aircraft engines.not sure just how to accomplish it
on a corvair because I'm sure there isn't a whole lot of stem height above the
spring but there should be a way to rig something to do it. I think I might
try that first just to avoid leaving any compound in the chamber.Raymond
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| Subject: | How about this idea? |
Here's an idea:
How about building an entire fuselage of wood with steel strips embedded inside?
Or maybe even the other way around (wood filled steel tubes).
Just a thought.
BC
do not archive
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| Subject: | Re: Trim set ups |
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PT0KPiAqCj4KPgoKCi0tIApSaWNrIEhvbGxhbmQKQ2FzdGxlIFJvY2ssIENvbG9yYWRvCgoiTG9n
aWMgaXMgYSB3cmVhdGggb2YgcHJldHR5IGZsb3dlcnMsIHRoYXQgc21lbGwgYmFkIgo
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: How about this idea? |
Or....what about steel filled wood tubes, with wood strips embedded in the
steel filling, and all of it wrapped with carbon fiber and sheathed in a
Goncalo Alves veneer? Mmm...
Ryan
do not archive
On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 8:08 PM, Bill Church <billspiet@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> billspiet@sympatico.ca>
>
> Here's an idea:
> How about building an entire fuselage of wood with steel strips embedded
> inside?
> Or maybe even the other way around (wood filled steel tubes).
>
> Just a thought.
>
> BC
>
> do not archive
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326783#326783
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | How about this idea? |
Bill,
4130 or 1018, Spruce, poplar or douglas fir?
Jack
DSM
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Church
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:09 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: How about this idea?
Here's an idea:
How about building an entire fuselage of wood with steel strips embedded
inside?
Or maybe even the other way around (wood filled steel tubes).
Just a thought.
BC
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326783#326783
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Trim set ups |
Now I seen ever-thang! Seriously, it makes sense if you have an
electrical system already (like a crank-snappin' Corvair), and if it
weighs less than the mechanical alternatives.
How about some details? I kind of like it.
Kip G.
On Jan 12, 2011, at 9:11 PM, Rick Holland wrote:
> Electric trim on a Piet? You must be kidding!
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 3:22 PM, <brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com> wrote:
> I believe it=92s time for a fresh thread=85=85=85. Could those of you
with
> trim systems =93flying and not=94 please post pics of your trim tab,
> and your trim adjustment mechanism in the cockpit. Thanks.
>
>
> Brian
>
> SLC-UT
>
>
> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> --
> Rick Holland
> Castle Rock, Colorado
>
> "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
> <IMG_1399.JPG><IMG_1398.JPG>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Trim set ups |
SSBsaWtlIHRoZSBlbGVjdHJpYyB0cmltLi4uanVzdCB3aGF0IEkgaGFkIGluIG1pbmQuIERvIG5v
dCBhcmNoaXZlDQogDQoNCkZyb206IFJpY2sgSG9sbGFuZCBbbWFpbHRvOmF0NzAwMGZ0QGdtYWls
LmNvbV0gDQpTZW50OiBXZWRuZXNkYXksIEphbnVhcnkgMTIsIDIwMTEgMDc6MTEgUE0NClRvOiBw
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PiANClN1YmplY3Q6IFJlOiBQaWV0ZW5wb2wtTGlzdDogVHJpbSBzZXQgdXBzIA0KIA0KDQpFbGVj
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LCBKYW4gMTIsIDIwMTEgYXQgMzoyMiBQTSwgPGJyaWFuLmUuamFyZGluZUBsLTNjb20uY29tPiB3
cm90ZToNCg0KDQoJSSBiZWxpZXZlIGl04oCZcyB0aW1lIGZvciBhIGZyZXNoIHRocmVhZOKApuKA
puKApi4gQ291bGQgdGhvc2Ugb2YgeW91IHdpdGggdHJpbSBzeXN0ZW1zIOKAnGZseWluZyBhbmQg
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DQoNCglCcmlhbg0KDQoJU0xDLVVUDQoNCgkNCgkNCgkiIHRhcmdldD0iX2JsYW5rIj5odHRwOi8v
d3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vTmF2aWdhdG9yP1BpZXRlbnBvbC1MaXN0DQoJdHA6Ly9mb3J1bXMu
bWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQ0KCV9ibGFuayI+aHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1
dGlvbg0KCQ0KCQ0KDQoNCg0KDQotLSANClJpY2sgSG9sbGFuZA0KQ2FzdGxlIFJvY2ssIENvbG9y
YWRvDQoNCiJMb2dpYyBpcyBhIHdyZWF0aCBvZiBwcmV0dHkgZmxvd2VycywgdGhhdCBzbWVsbCBi
YWQiIA0KDQo
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: How about this idea? |
It's all gotta be aircraft grade, so 4130 and spruce.
--------
Kevin "Axel" Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326800#326800
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: How about this idea? |
Jack,
Yes.
BC
> Bill,
> 4130 or 1018, Spruce, poplar or douglas fir?
> Jack
> DSM
> Do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326803#326803
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
You mean like these two? The first flew for many
years didn't it? There was an article way back then
on the construction of these struts. Wood is just
as much an engineering material as steel, aluminum,
carbon fiber or anything else. You just have to
work within it's strengths. Which means you have
to know them. In this case it's "shear parallel to the
grain" in the chart I've sent. Bolts in wood tend to
pull a plug the width of the bolt out. This means
you have two surfaces to calculate for. This means
that if you have a bolt 1" from the end of a board
and it's 1" thick you have 1X1+1X1 surface area.
In Sitka that means it will take 2,240 lb to pull
that bolt out, West. Hem.=2,340 lb and DG fir,
only 2,280.
If you're going to be doing your own thing with wood
then please cut+paste this chart and use it.
It always seems incredible to me that we trust ourselves
to wood spars without a thought but can't get heads
around anything else made of it. :-)
Clif
IT COULDN'T BE DONE, BY EDGAR A. GUEST
SOMEBODY SAID THAT IT COULDN'T BE DONE,
BUT HE WITH A CHUCKLE REPLIED
THAT "MAYBE IT COULDN'T," BUT HE WOULD BE ONE
WHO WOULDN'T SAY SO TILL HE'D TRIED.
SO HE BUCKLED RIGHT IN WITH A TRACE OF A GRIN,
AND IF HE WORRIED, HE CERTAINLY HID IT.
HE STARTED TO SING AS HE TACKLED THE THING
THAT COULDN'T BE DONE, AND HE DID IT.
SOMEBODY SCOFFED: "OH, YOU'LL NEVER DO THAT;
AT LEAST NO ONE EVER HAS DONE IT";
BUT HE TOOK OFF HIS COAT AND HE TOOK OFF HIS HAT,
AND THE FIRST THING HE KNEW HE'D BEGUN IT.
WITH A LIFT OF HIS CHIN AND A BIT OF A GRIN,
WITHOUT ANY DOUBTING OR QUIT IT,
HE STARTED TO SING AS HE TACKLED THE THING
THAT COULD'T BE DONE AND HE DID IT.
THERE ARE THOUSANDS TO TELL YOU IT CANNOT BE DONE,
THERE ARE THOUSANDS TO PROPHESY FAILURE;
THERE ARE THOUSANDS TO POINT OUT TO YOU ONE BY ONE
THE DANGERS THAT WAIT TO ASSAIL YOU.
BUT JUST BUCKLE IN WITH A BIT OF A GRIN,
JUST TAKE OFF YOUR COAT AND GO TO IT;
JUST START TO SING AS YOU TACKLE THE THING
THAT "CANNOT BE DONE," AND YOU'LL DO IT.
>
> Is it not possible to just copy what has been successfully used already?
>
> Gary Boothe
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
Hey Clif
I know its late and I'm rubbing my eyes but are those horner wingtips on
N3513 if so do they really make a difference?
Kim
On 12/01/2011 8:09 PM, Clif Dawson wrote:
> You mean like these two? The first flew for many
> years didn't it? There was an article way back then
> on the construction of these struts. Wood is just
> as much an engineering material as steel, aluminum,
> carbon fiber or anything else. You just have to
> work within it's strengths. Which means you have
> to know them. In this case it's "shear parallel to the
> grain" in the chart I've sent. Bolts in wood tend to
> pull a plug the width of the bolt out. This means
> you have two surfaces to calculate for. This means
> that if you have a bolt 1" from the end of a board
> and it's 1" thick you have 1X1+1X1 surface area.
> In Sitka that means it will take 2,240 lb to pull
> that bolt out, West. Hem.=2,340 lb and DG fir,
> only 2,280.
>
> If you're going to be doing your own thing with wood
> then please cut+paste this chart and use it.
>
> It always seems incredible to me that we trust ourselves
> to wood spars without a thought but can't get heads
> around anything else made of it. :-)
>
> Clif
>
> IT COULDN'T BE DONE, BY EDGAR A. GUEST
>
>
> SOMEBODY SAID THAT IT COULDN'T BE DONE,
>
> BUT HE WITH A CHUCKLE REPLIED
>
> THAT "MAYBE IT COULDN'T," BUT HE WOULD BE ONE
>
> WHO WOULDN'T SAY SO TILL HE'D TRIED.
>
> SO HE BUCKLED RIGHT IN WITH A TRACE OF A GRIN,
>
> AND IF HE WORRIED, HE CERTAINLY HID IT.
>
> HE STARTED TO SING AS HE TACKLED THE THING
>
> THAT COULDN'T BE DONE, AND HE DID IT.
>
>
> SOMEBODY SCOFFED: "OH, YOU'LL NEVER DO THAT;
>
> AT LEAST NO ONE EVER HAS DONE IT";
>
> BUT HE TOOK OFF HIS COAT AND HE TOOK OFF HIS HAT,
>
> AND THE FIRST THING HE KNEW HE'D BEGUN IT.
>
> WITH A LIFT OF HIS CHIN AND A BIT OF A GRIN,
>
> WITHOUT ANY DOUBTING OR QUIT IT,
>
> HE STARTED TO SING AS HE TACKLED THE THING
>
> THAT COULD'T BE DONE AND HE DID IT.
>
>
> THERE ARE THOUSANDS TO TELL YOU IT CANNOT BE DONE,
>
> THERE ARE THOUSANDS TO PROPHESY FAILURE;
>
> THERE ARE THOUSANDS TO POINT OUT TO YOU ONE BY ONE
>
> THE DANGERS THAT WAIT TO ASSAIL YOU.
>
> BUT JUST BUCKLE IN WITH A BIT OF A GRIN,
>
> JUST TAKE OFF YOUR COAT AND GO TO IT;
>
> JUST START TO SING AS YOU TACKLE THE THING
>
> THAT "CANNOT BE DONE," AND YOU'LL DO IT.
>
>
>>
>> Is it not possible to just copy what has been successfully used already?
>>
>> Gary Boothe
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Wood Wing Strut Fitting |
I just found the March 1970 Sport Flying mag with the
article on this plane. It's Clyde Buckley's. It appears
that the tip bows have been left off leaving a flat tip.
There's no plate there. I've never liked those things.
I think they're supremely ugly and I notice nobody
is using them. There are other things that are, like
drooped tips and winglets. It makes me wonder why.
Even flat tips like these look, to me anyway, kind of
sawed off, unfinished.
Oh, by the way, has anyone ever heard of "cellulose
reinforced lignin composite"?
Clif
>
> Hey Clif
> I know its late and I'm rubbing my eyes but are those horner wingtips on
> N3513 if so do they really make a difference?
> Kim
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