Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:00 AM - Brodhead wish list... (tools)
2. 04:04 AM - Fw: Amazing 3D printer (Charles Campbell)
3. 04:40 AM - Re: Brodhead Get-together (skipgadd@earthlink.net)
4. 04:48 AM - Lucky Stiffs (Lawrence Williams)
5. 05:21 AM - Re: Re: RV10-List: Inspiration - Ultimate Air-To-Air Shot... (Jack Phillips)
6. 05:33 AM - propeller (bender)
7. 05:34 AM - Re: Brodhead wish list... (Jack Phillips)
8. 05:44 AM - Best way to cut metal fittings? (bubbleboy)
9. 05:49 AM - Re: propeller (Jack Phillips)
10. 06:04 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (Jack Phillips)
11. 06:08 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (Richard Schreiber)
12. 06:11 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (airlion)
13. 06:27 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (Gboothe5)
14. 06:31 AM - Re: propeller (Gboothe5)
15. 06:57 AM - Re: Lucky Stiffs (Charles Campbell)
16. 07:03 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (Charles Campbell)
17. 07:19 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (norm)
18. 08:00 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (jeff wilson)
19. 08:36 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (Jim Markle)
20. 09:38 AM - Re: propeller (helspersew@aol.com)
21. 10:00 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (Richard Schreiber)
22. 10:28 AM - Pilot's seat height question (Bill Church)
23. 10:32 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (Gary Boothe)
24. 10:47 AM - Re: Pilot's seat height question (Gary Boothe)
25. 10:49 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (Rick Holland)
26. 10:51 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (Greg Cardinal)
27. 11:13 AM - Re: Brodhead Get-together (IT Girl)
28. 11:13 AM - Re: Pilot's seat height question (Jack Phillips)
29. 11:17 AM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (Jim Markle)
30. 01:07 PM - cracked fenders (Oscar Zuniga)
31. 01:15 PM - Re: cracked fenders (Isablcorky@aol.com)
32. 02:39 PM - cuting metal fittings (helspersew@aol.com)
33. 02:50 PM - Re: Pilot's seat height question (Bill Church)
34. 03:12 PM - Re: Re: Pilot's seat height question (Gary Boothe)
35. 03:21 PM - Re: Re: Pilot's seat height question (norm)
36. 05:01 PM - C-85 on eBay (Jack)
37. 05:33 PM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (dwilson)
38. 06:53 PM - Model Piet (Owen Davies)
39. 08:05 PM - Re: Amazing 3D printer (jarheadpilot82)
40. 08:46 PM - Another question about the pilot's seat (Bill Church)
41. 08:59 PM - Re: Pilot's seat height question (Bill Church)
42. 09:52 PM - Re: Amazing 3D printer (ldmill)
43. 11:42 PM - Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? (bubbleboy)
44. 11:48 PM - Re: Pilot's seat height question (tdudley@umn.edu)
Message 1
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Subject: | Brodhead wish list... |
Hey folks,
I'm new here, to this forum, but not necessarily to the Piet group. I started
researching to build a Piet in '95 or so. Wrote lots of letters, got lots of
BPA newsletter back issues, have the plans, made templates for all the metal parts...
but life and not as well equipped shop as I would hope to build a plane,
all got in the way.
Well, the kids are nearly grown (sad thing...). The shop got WELL equipped, and
I set up a machine shop to boot. Working on a fabrication shop. Have most
the parts to set up forging and foundry capability. Ya, went a little overboard.
Made it to Oshkosh for the first time last year. Coming to Brodhead and Oshkosh
this year and hope to meet you all. Bringing a motorhome, will likely have
a bed or two to spare, hoping to arrive early Thurs.
Yesterday, I made a wing rib jig and a mock wing rib, so I'm officially started!
Pictures later. A friend of mine and I are planning on making two together.
He's taking the wing rib jig back with him to his Navy duty station and will
be cranking them out in his apartment as I weld things together.
So, to keep things on point, it dawns on me that it's possible many of you have
spare square inches of left over materials. Specifically, looking for scraps
of 1/16" aircraft plywood for gussets. A rough estimate would be that I need
about 2000 of them!
So, if you have scrap anything I could buy and ship to Chris, it would be a GREAT
help. I'll rough everything and ship to him for building. Specifically wing
rib related. If you have a whole sheet of anything I may need surplus and
want to get your money back without shipping and all... give me a call. Pieces
of 4130 that may be surplus to your immediate needs that I can use to start
the fabrication process.
Not looking for handouts, just trying to be efficient. Also willing to barter
Scotch... just sayin'... Should have plenty of beer along!
We're planning on classic Piets, have a couple model A cores to start on soon.
I'm practicing by rebuilding 30hp Wisconsin VH4D air cooled industrial motors
for old Bobcat 610's right now. Boring the cylinders myself, etc.
I'm coming from near Chattanooga TN.
Cheers,
Mike "Tools" Danford
423 580 1383
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345543#345543
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Subject: | Fw: Amazing 3D printer |
Can you imagine what a bunch of Piet builders could do with this thing?
Wonder what FAA reg this would come under?
----- Original Message -----
From: GARY PETESCH
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 1:35 AM
Subject: Amazing 3D printer
Wow - what would the Chinese do with this!! GARY
Just when you think you've seen it all, along comes this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw
Just THINK of the myriad of applications!!!!
Message 3
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Subject: | Brodhead Get-together |
Jack, Thanks, Cinda and I will be there in the motor home and will be happy to
join you Friday for lunch.
Skip
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack
Sent: 7/6/2011 8:44:33 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead Get-together
Susan and I would like to host a lunch at Brodhead. We plan to be there Thursday
evening and depart Saturday for Oshkosh. We were thinking about having brats
and hamburgers Friday around 11:00 to 12:00. Any takers please let me know.
We will have our motor home parked in the SW 40. Its a green and white 37
foot Itasca. We would also like to have friends join us in Oshkosh (Camp Scholler)
for cocktails, date and time to be determined. Cant wait!
Jack
DSM
Message 4
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If you bought a radio to put in your Pietenpol you deserve to miss Brodhead.
Next thing you know people will be adding dihedral, making wing cut-outs,
putting in doors, installing trim systems, changing airfoils and all sorts of
tom-foolery.
It's early Saturday morning and my skivvies are already in a wad because of
Steinmetz!! No more talk about ridiculous add-ons for Air Campers!! My week-end
is RUINED!!
Larry W.
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: RV10-List: Inspiration - Ultimate Air-To-Air Shot... |
That's absolutely true. Wherever I go with my Pietenpol, it draws a crowd.
My RV-4 doesn't even raise an eyebrow unless I fly the approach inverted.
Now Pieti Lowell is even going to ruin that for me by doing the same thing
with his Piet.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP "Icarus Plummet"
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kevinpurtee
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 11:00 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: RV10-List: Inspiration - Ultimate Air-To-Air
Shot...
<kevin.purtee@us.army.mil>
At my latest $100 hamburger an RV'er was talking with me. He really liked
the Piet. He said, "We're starting to call RVs ramp fleas. There are so
many no one even gives them a glance."
do not archive
--------
Kevin "Axel" Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345516#345516
Message 6
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got started on my prop for the A this week...
i copied a sopwith camel prop... scaled down a bit
its ash... and 76 inches long
bandsawing that big block of ash was tough
thanks a million to Dan for putting the info together... can't wait to get the
chainsaw out
jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345554#345554
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/prop1_474.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/prop_996.jpg
Message 7
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Subject: | Brodhead wish list... |
Great to have you finally building, Mike. I think you'll find that building
two airplanes simultaneously will be a very good thing. My suggestion is,
always build the parts for your friend's airplane first. You can say your
just doing him a favor, so he can be the first to fly. Invariably my second
or third attempt at making a part came out better than my first.
Seriously, I think I built about 1-1/2 Pietenpols as I built mine, so
building two wouldn't add that much in time or cost.
As for scraps, I suspect that most Piet builders are like me and saved most
of the big scraps for future use, either in making repairs to their airplane
or other projects. I wouldn't really want to part with any of it. The
materials are really a fairly small portion of the total cost of the
airplane, probably less than a third overall.
Are you building a wooden fuselage or the steel tube version?
Looking forward to meeting you at Brodhead.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP "Icarus Plummet"
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tools
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 5:58 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead wish list...
Hey folks,
I'm new here, to this forum, but not necessarily to the Piet group. I
started researching to build a Piet in '95 or so. Wrote lots of letters,
got lots of BPA newsletter back issues, have the plans, made templates for
all the metal parts... but life and not as well equipped shop as I would
hope to build a plane, all got in the way.
Well, the kids are nearly grown (sad thing...). The shop got WELL equipped,
and I set up a machine shop to boot. Working on a fabrication shop. Have
most the parts to set up forging and foundry capability. Ya, went a little
overboard.
Made it to Oshkosh for the first time last year. Coming to Brodhead and
Oshkosh this year and hope to meet you all. Bringing a motorhome, will
likely have a bed or two to spare, hoping to arrive early Thurs.
Yesterday, I made a wing rib jig and a mock wing rib, so I'm officially
started! Pictures later. A friend of mine and I are planning on making two
together. He's taking the wing rib jig back with him to his Navy duty
station and will be cranking them out in his apartment as I weld things
together.
So, to keep things on point, it dawns on me that it's possible many of you
have spare square inches of left over materials. Specifically, looking for
scraps of 1/16" aircraft plywood for gussets. A rough estimate would be
that I need about 2000 of them!
So, if you have scrap anything I could buy and ship to Chris, it would be a
GREAT help. I'll rough everything and ship to him for building.
Specifically wing rib related. If you have a whole sheet of anything I may
need surplus and want to get your money back without shipping and all...
give me a call. Pieces of 4130 that may be surplus to your immediate needs
that I can use to start the fabrication process.
Not looking for handouts, just trying to be efficient. Also willing to
barter Scotch... just sayin'... Should have plenty of beer along!
We're planning on classic Piets, have a couple model A cores to start on
soon. I'm practicing by rebuilding 30hp Wisconsin VH4D air cooled
industrial motors for old Bobcat 610's right now. Boring the cylinders
myself, etc.
I'm coming from near Chattanooga TN.
Cheers,
Mike "Tools" Danford
423 580 1383
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345543#345543
Message 8
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Subject: | Best way to cut metal fittings? |
I was going to buy my metal parts ready made but have been thinking about doing
it all myself. I have done a little bit of metal work in my time and get by with
a hacksaw and grinder usually.
Is there a trick that makes cutting these parts any easier? Do you use a band saw
for metal or do I tough it out with a hacksaw? Im using 4130.
I know laser cutting is an option but just doing my sums as buying them ready made
adds a chunk to the build cost. I have a mate who can Tig weld etc.
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Rudder, Vert stab, Elevators and 30 Ribs built...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345557#345557
Message 9
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Looks nice, Jeff. Just using the blank you've cut as is should give about
the same performance as a certificated Sensenich.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP "Icarus Plummet"
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bender
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 8:31 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: propeller
got started on my prop for the A this week...
i copied a sopwith camel prop... scaled down a bit
its ash... and 76 inches long
bandsawing that big block of ash was tough
thanks a million to Dan for putting the info together... can't wait to get
the chainsaw out
jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345554#345554
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/prop1_474.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/prop_996.jpg
Message 10
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Subject: | Best way to cut metal fittings? |
I found a small metal cutting bandsaw and a belt sander with a sanding disc
to be very useful in making all the fittings. The bandsaw needs to be SLOW.
4130 should be cut with a saw speed of only 80 feet per minute, or a little
over 1 inch per second. Anything faster and the work will remove more
material from the sawblade than the saw will from the work. Grizzly Tools
sells a nice pipe-cutting bandsaw that can be stood up to make a small
vertical saw for about $200. I don't know if they have something equivalent
in Australia, but if they do it is a worthwhile investment. Get the finest
teeth blade you can find - I think I used a 32 teeth per inch blade. I used
it for all the steel fittings as well as cutting all the tubing (and there
is a lot of that on a Pietenpol).
Jack Phillips
NX899JP "Icarus Plummet"
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bubbleboy
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 8:42 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
<scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
I was going to buy my metal parts ready made but have been thinking about
doing it all myself. I have done a little bit of metal work in my time and
get by with a hacksaw and grinder usually.
Is there a trick that makes cutting these parts any easier? Do you use a
band saw for metal or do I tough it out with a hacksaw? Im using 4130.
I know laser cutting is an option but just doing my sums as buying them
ready made adds a chunk to the build cost. I have a mate who can Tig weld
etc.
Scotty
Message 11
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Subject: | Best way to cut metal fittings? |
Scotty:
Many of the metal fittings need to be made to fit the structure of the
plane you are working on..its not one size fits all. As far as cutting the
parts out, a hacksaw will work, but it takes a lot of time and effort. What
I did is to use my wood cutting bandsaw. I replaced the blade with a metal
cutting one and then replaced the sheaves on the drive motor and the
bandsaw so the blade is running at the proper slow speed for cutting steel.
It worked great.
Rick Schreiber
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
hi bubbleboy, just get a Bosch saber saw and clamp it upside down in your vise
and saw with a metal cutting blade. It works great as long as the blades are
sharp. Gardiner
----- Original Message ----
From: bubbleboy <scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
Sent: Sat, July 9, 2011 8:42:20 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
I was going to buy my metal parts ready made but have been thinking about doing
it all myself. I have done a little bit of metal work in my time and get by with
a hacksaw and grinder usually.
Is there a trick that makes cutting these parts any easier? Do you use a band
saw for metal or do I tough it out with a hacksaw? Im using 4130.
I know laser cutting is an option but just doing my sums as buying them ready
made adds a chunk to the build cost. I have a mate who can Tig weld etc.
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Rudder, Vert stab, Elevators and 30 Ribs built...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345557#345557
Message 13
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Subject: | Best way to cut metal fittings? |
Scotty,
The only band saw I have is my dad's old Craftsman. I takes an 80" blade,
which can be purchased as metal or wood blades. I have never messed around
with the speed and have completed all fittings and wood work, though I did
break 3 metal blades in the process.
Best of luck!
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bubbleboy
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 5:42 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
<scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
I was going to buy my metal parts ready made but have been thinking about
doing it all myself. I have done a little bit of metal work in my time and
get by with a hacksaw and grinder usually.
Is there a trick that makes cutting these parts any easier? Do you use a
band saw for metal or do I tough it out with a hacksaw? Im using 4130.
I know laser cutting is an option but just doing my sums as buying them
ready made adds a chunk to the build cost. I have a mate who can Tig weld
etc.
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Rudder, Vert stab, Elevators and 30 Ribs built...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345557#345557
Message 14
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That's a beautiful start, and a most enjoyable project! Myself....I would
never be able to function in such a shop though....probably wander around
for hours, coffee cup in hand, not be able to decide where to build the
thing...
Gary
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bender
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 5:31 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: propeller
got started on my prop for the A this week...
i copied a sopwith camel prop... scaled down a bit
its ash... and 76 inches long
bandsawing that big block of ash was tough
thanks a million to Dan for putting the info together... can't wait to get
the chainsaw out
jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345554#345554
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/prop1_474.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/prop_996.jpg
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Lucky Stiffs |
Larry, you surely don't want to see my project. It will NOT have big
wire wheels, it has a modified airfoil, it will have a wing (center
section) cutout, It will be powered by a Corvair "crank-snapper",and it
will not be covered with cotton cloth tightened with dope. Look at a
picture of Hans van der Voort's Miss (whatever -- I have forgotten her
name) and, except for color, you will, I hope, pretty much see mine when
it is finished. Chuck C.
----- Original Message -----
From: Lawrence Williams
To: Pietlist
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 7:45 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lucky Stiffs
If you bought a radio to put in your Pietenpol you deserve to miss
Brodhead. Next thing you know people will be adding dihedral, making
wing cut-outs, putting in doors, installing trim systems, changing
airfoils and all sorts of tom-foolery.
It's early Saturday morning and my skivvies are already in a wad
because of Steinmetz!! No more talk about ridiculous add-ons for Air
Campers!! My week-end is RUINED!!
Larry W.
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
"sheaves on the drive motor and the
bandsaw so the blade is running at the proper slow speed for cutting steel"
What are sheaves? I have borrowed my son-in-law's wood cutting bandsaw,
but it runs too fast for steel. How can I modify it without ruining it?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Schreiber" <lmforge@earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 9:06 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
> <lmforge@earthlink.net>
>
> Scotty:
> Many of the metal fittings need to be made to fit the structure of the
> plane you are working on..its not one size fits all. As far as cutting the
> parts out, a hacksaw will work, but it takes a lot of time and effort.
> What
> I did is to use my wood cutting bandsaw. I replaced the blade with a metal
> cutting one and then replaced the sheaves on the drive motor and the
> bandsaw so the blade is running at the proper slow speed for cutting
> steel.
> It worked great.
>
> Rick Schreiber
>
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
Chuck, didn't you ever sing the song in church,bringing in the sheaves/---
-- =0Anorm=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Charl
es Campbell <cncampbell@windstream.net>=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
=0ASent: Sat, July 9, 2011 10:01:15 AM=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Best
les Campbell" =0A<cncampbell@windstream.net>=0A=0A"sheaves on the drive mot
or and the=0Abandsaw so the blade is running at the proper slow speed for c
utting steel"=0A=0AWhat are sheaves?- I have borrowed my son-in-law's woo
d cutting bandsaw, but it =0Aruns too fast for steel.- How can I modify i
t without ruining it?=0A=0A----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Schr
eiber" <lmforge@earthlink.net>=0ATo: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>=0ASent:
Saturday, July 09, 2011 9:06 AM=0ASubject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Best way to
rd Schreiber" =0A><lmforge@earthlink.net>=0A> =0A> Scotty:=0A> Many of the
metal fittings need to be made to fit the structure of the=0A> plane you ar
e working on..its not one size fits all. As far as cutting the=0A> parts ou
t, a hacksaw will work, but it takes a lot of time and effort. What=0A> I d
id is to use my wood cutting bandsaw. I replaced the blade with a metal=0A>
cutting one and then replaced the sheaves on the drive motor and the=0A> b
andsaw so the blade is running at the proper slow speed for cutting steel.
=0A> It worked great.=0A> =0A> Rick Schreiber=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>
===================
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
I use a simple had held jig saw on 4130 as thick as .095.- Take it easy d
on't rush the blade and it will wear out before it breaks.- Also try to c
lamp the metal down to your wood work table as close to the cut as possible
to reduce vibration. The wood also helps reduce vibration.- Finish corne
r radius's with your bench grinder.- Don't forget the safety goggles.
-
Jeff Wilson
St. Louis, MO
N899WT
--- On Sat, 7/9/11, bubbleboy <scott.dawson3@bigpond.com> wrote:
From: bubbleboy <scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
m>
I was going to buy my metal parts ready made but have been thinking about d
oing it all myself. I have done a little bit of metal work in my time and g
et by with a hacksaw and grinder usually.
Is there a trick that makes cutting these parts any easier? Do you use a ba
nd saw for metal or do I tough it out with a hacksaw? Im using 4130.
I know laser cutting is an option but just doing my sums as buying them rea
dy made adds a chunk to the build cost. I have a mate who can Tig weld etc.
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Rudder, Vert stab, Elevators and 30 Ribs built...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345557#345557
le, List Admin.
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
Totally agree with this idea Gardiner.
I wrestled with all this metal cutting stuff for a while, even tried clamping material
and using a hack saw...no...
Finally bought a cheap Harbor Freight (I may have actually bought mine at Northern
Tool, this model is very common with different brand labels but the same cheap
product) metal cutting band saw. One of the best $160 I ever spent. Have
used it many many times and easily got my money's worth. Didn't actually cost
that much more than a good quality saber saw.
A bit more of an initial investment but this is a tool that will never collect
dust!
See attached.
Jim....back home after watching storms close down the Denver airport last night.....until
midnight. Well, as long as that doesn't happen next Friday morning
when I get to GO TO BRODHEAD!!!
-----Original Message-----
>From: airlion <airlion@bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Jul 9, 2011 7:08 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
>
>
>hi bubbleboy, just get a Bosch saber saw and clamp it upside down in your vise
>and saw with a metal cutting blade. It works great as long as the blades are
>sharp. Gardiner
>
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: bubbleboy <scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Sat, July 9, 2011 8:42:20 AM
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
>
>
>I was going to buy my metal parts ready made but have been thinking about doing
>it all myself. I have done a little bit of metal work in my time and get by with
>a hacksaw and grinder usually.
>
>
>Is there a trick that makes cutting these parts any easier? Do you use a band
>saw for metal or do I tough it out with a hacksaw? Im using 4130.
>
>I know laser cutting is an option but just doing my sums as buying them ready
>made adds a chunk to the build cost. I have a mate who can Tig weld etc.
>
>Scotty
>
>--------
>Scotty
>
>Tamworth, Australia
>Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
>
>www.scottyspietenpol.com
>
>Rudder, Vert stab, Elevators and 30 Ribs built...
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345557#345557
>
>
Message 20
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|
Yes, handling that huge block through the bandsaw was very difficult. Next
time (when I make my 4-bladed job) I'll hack off most of it by some other m
eans before shaving off the last of it with the bandsaw. I loved working wi
th that ash,- very good prop wood I think. Can't wait to see it Jeff. Pleas
e bring fotos to Brod if you can.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN.
-----Original Message-----
From: bender <jfaith@solairusaviation.com>
Sent: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 7:34 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: propeller
>
got started on my prop for the A this week...
copied a sopwith camel prop... scaled down a bit
ts ash... and 76 inches long
andsawing that big block of ash was tough
thanks a million to Dan for putting the info together... can't wait to get
the
hainsaw out
jeff
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345554#345554
ttachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/prop1_474.jpg
ttp://forums.matronics.com//files/prop_996.jpg
-========================
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
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-
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-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
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-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
Message 21
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|
Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
Sheaves are sometimes called pulleys (incorrectly). Use the smallest one
you can get on the drive motor and the largest one, that will fit, on the
bandsaw.
Rick Schreiber.
> [Original Message]
> From: Charles Campbell <cncampbell@windstream.net>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 7/9/2011 9:04:45 AM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
>
<cncampbell@windstream.net>Shea
>
> "sheaves on the drive motor and the
> bandsaw so the blade is running at the proper slow speed for cutting
steel"
>
> What are sheaves? I have borrowed my son-in-law's wood cutting bandsaw,
> but it runs too fast for steel. How can I modify it without ruining it?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Schreiber" <lmforge@earthlink.net>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 9:06 AM
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
>
>
> > <lmforge@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Scotty:
> > Many of the metal fittings need to be made to fit the structure of the
> > plane you are working on..its not one size fits all. As far as cutting
the
> > parts out, a hacksaw will work, but it takes a lot of time and effort.
> > What
> > I did is to use my wood cutting bandsaw. I replaced the blade with a
metal
> > cutting one and then replaced the sheaves on the drive motor and the
> > bandsaw so the blade is running at the proper slow speed for cutting
> > steel.
> > It worked great.
> >
> > Rick Schreiber
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 22
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Subject: | Pilot's seat height question |
Okay, I'm attempting to build the pilot's seat, and finding it a little difficult
to make things add up. What I'm having difficulty with is determining the correct
height of the back edge of the seat. I think this question was raised not
too long ago, and as I recall, the answer was to use the seat back to determine
the proper location. But it just doesn't seem right. Attached are a few clips
from the plans to make things more clear. One clip shows the side view of
the fuselage construction, with a dimension of 22 1/16" from outside of longerons.
The second clip shows the seat back to be 21" tall. Based on these dimensions,
the bottom of the rear seat back would sit only slightly more than one
inch above the BOTTOM of the longeron, or, practically touching the top of the
longeron, since the longeron is one inch tall. The third clip shows the seat
assembly (from drawing No.4), and, if we scale the drawing, the bottom of the
rear seat back appears to be about an inch and a quarter above the TOP of the
longeron.
When I built my fuse mock-up, I didn't notice the discrepancy, and I just scaled
drawing No. 4.
So, what is the right way to go here? Is the rear seat back supposed to sit just
above the longeron? Or is the 21" dimension a mistake?
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345598#345598
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuse_dim_400.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat_back_dim_621.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/full_assembly_202.jpg
Message 23
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|
Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
That looks just like the metal band saw I'm missing....
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Markle
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
Totally agree with this idea Gardiner.
I wrestled with all this metal cutting stuff for a while, even tried
clamping material and using a hack saw...no...
Finally bought a cheap Harbor Freight (I may have actually bought mine at
Northern Tool, this model is very common with different brand labels but the
same cheap product) metal cutting band saw. One of the best $160 I ever
spent. Have used it many many times and easily got my money's worth.
Didn't actually cost that much more than a good quality saber saw.
A bit more of an initial investment but this is a tool that will never
collect dust!
See attached.
Jim....back home after watching storms close down the Denver airport last
night.....until midnight. Well, as long as that doesn't happen next Friday
morning when I get to GO TO BRODHEAD!!!
-----Original Message-----
>From: airlion <airlion@bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Jul 9, 2011 7:08 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
>
>
>hi bubbleboy, just get a Bosch saber saw and clamp it upside down in your
>vise
>and saw with a metal cutting blade. It works great as long as the blades
>are
>sharp. Gardiner
>
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: bubbleboy <scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Sat, July 9, 2011 8:42:20 AM
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
>
><scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
>
>I was going to buy my metal parts ready made but have been thinking about
>doing
>it all myself. I have done a little bit of metal work in my time and get by
>with
>a hacksaw and grinder usually.
>
>
>Is there a trick that makes cutting these parts any easier? Do you use a
>band
>saw for metal or do I tough it out with a hacksaw? Im using 4130.
>
>I know laser cutting is an option but just doing my sums as buying them
>ready
>made adds a chunk to the build cost. I have a mate who can Tig weld etc.
>
>Scotty
>
>--------
>Scotty
>
>Tamworth, Australia
>Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
>
>www.scottyspietenpol.com
>
>Rudder, Vert stab, Elevators and 30 Ribs built...
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345557#345557
>
>
Message 24
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|
Subject: | Re: Pilot's seat height question |
The 22 1/16" looks good. My seat back is 20"....but, hey,...just follow the
plans...:-0
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Church
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 10:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Pilot's seat height question
Okay, I'm attempting to build the pilot's seat, and finding it a little
difficult to make things add up. What I'm having difficulty with is
determining the correct height of the back edge of the seat. I think this
question was raised not too long ago, and as I recall, the answer was to use
the seat back to determine the proper location. But it just doesn't seem
right. Attached are a few clips from the plans to make things more clear.
One clip shows the side view of the fuselage construction, with a dimension
of 22 1/16" from outside of longerons. The second clip shows the seat back
to be 21" tall. Based on these dimensions, the bottom of the rear seat back
would sit only slightly more than one inch above the BOTTOM of the longeron,
or, practically touching the top of the longeron, since the longeron is one
inch tall. The third clip shows the seat assembly (from drawing No.4), and,
if we scale the drawing, the bottom of the rear seat back appears to be
about an inch and a qua!
rter above the TOP of the longeron.
When I built my fuse mock-up, I didn't notice the discrepancy, and I just
scaled drawing No. 4.
So, what is the right way to go here? Is the rear seat back supposed to sit
just above the longeron? Or is the 21" dimension a mistake?
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345598#345598
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuse_dim_400.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat_back_dim_621.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/full_assembly_202.jpg
Message 25
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|
Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
A $40 die grinder using 1/8" cutting disks is all I needed for all my cuts.
A band saw would be nice though.
rick
On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 6:42 AM, bubbleboy <scott.dawson3@bigpond.com> wrote:
> scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
>
> I was going to buy my metal parts ready made but have been thinking about
> doing it all myself. I have done a little bit of metal work in my time and
> get by with a hacksaw and grinder usually.
>
> Is there a trick that makes cutting these parts any easier? Do you use a
> band saw for metal or do I tough it out with a hacksaw? Im using 4130.
>
> I know laser cutting is an option but just doing my sums as buying them
> ready made adds a chunk to the build cost. I have a mate who can Tig weld
> etc.
>
> Scotty
>
> --------
> Scotty
>
> Tamworth, Australia
> Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
>
> www.scottyspietenpol.com
>
> Rudder, Vert stab, Elevators and 30 Ribs built...
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345557#345557
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
NX6819Z
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 26
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|
Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
Metal cutting tools to make your life easier:
1. Portable, variable speed bandsaw
2. 4 1/2" angle grinder with .040 cutoff disks
3. 6 X 48 belt sander
4. Hacksaw
5. Good selection of files
6. 8" bench grinder
7. Scotchbrite wheel for the grinder for polishing metal edges PRIOR to
bending
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: "bubbleboy" <scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 7:42 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
> <scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
>
> I was going to buy my metal parts ready made but have been thinking about
> doing it all myself. I have done a little bit of metal work in my time and
> get by with a hacksaw and grinder usually.
>
> Is there a trick that makes cutting these parts any easier? Do you use a
> band saw for metal or do I tough it out with a hacksaw? Im using 4130.
>
> I know laser cutting is an option but just doing my sums as buying them
> ready made adds a chunk to the build cost. I have a mate who can Tig weld
> etc.
>
> Scotty
>
> --------
> Scotty
>
> Tamworth, Australia
> Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
>
> www.scottyspietenpol.com
>
> Rudder, Vert stab, Elevators and 30 Ribs built...
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345557#345557
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
Subject: | Re: Brodhead Get-together |
kevinpurtee wrote:
> Thanks, Jack. See you there.
He meant to say "there will be 3 of us" Let us know if we can help.
--------
Shelley Tumino
IT Girl
wife of "Axel"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345605#345605
Message 28
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|
Subject: | Pilot's seat height question |
I agree with Gary. Build your fuselage, install the control system, then
build the seat making sure it clears the controls. The actual length may
vary from the 21" that Orin Hoopman figured. Looking at mine, it looks like
I've got at least an inch above the top of the lower longeron:
Jack Phillips
NX899JP "Icarus Plummet"
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Boothe
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Pilot's seat height question
The 22 1/16" looks good. My seat back is 20"....but, hey,...just follow the
plans...:-0
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Church
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 10:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Pilot's seat height question
Okay, I'm attempting to build the pilot's seat, and finding it a little
difficult to make things add up. What I'm having difficulty with is
determining the correct height of the back edge of the seat. I think this
question was raised not too long ago, and as I recall, the answer was to use
the seat back to determine the proper location. But it just doesn't seem
right. Attached are a few clips from the plans to make things more clear.
One clip shows the side view of the fuselage construction, with a dimension
of 22 1/16" from outside of longerons. The second clip shows the seat back
to be 21" tall. Based on these dimensions, the bottom of the rear seat back
would sit only slightly more than one inch above the BOTTOM of the longeron,
or, practically touching the top of the longeron, since the longeron is one
inch tall. The third clip shows the seat assembly (from drawing No.4), and,
if we scale the drawing, the bottom of the rear seat back appears to be
about an inch and a qua!
rter above the TOP of the longeron.
When I built my fuse mock-up, I didn't notice the discrepancy, and I just
scaled drawing No. 4.
So, what is the right way to go here? Is the rear seat back supposed to sit
just above the longeron? Or is the 21" dimension a mistake?
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345598#345598
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuse_dim_400.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat_back_dim_621.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/full_assembly_202.jpg
Message 29
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|
Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
Call the TSA...they wouldn't let me board with it.... :-)
-----Original Message-----
>From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net>
>Sent: Jul 9, 2011 11:30 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
>
>
>That looks just like the metal band saw I'm missing....
>
>do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Markle
>Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 8:33 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
>
>Totally agree with this idea Gardiner.
>
>I wrestled with all this metal cutting stuff for a while, even tried
>clamping material and using a hack saw...no...
>
>Finally bought a cheap Harbor Freight (I may have actually bought mine at
>Northern Tool, this model is very common with different brand labels but the
>same cheap product) metal cutting band saw. One of the best $160 I ever
>spent. Have used it many many times and easily got my money's worth.
>Didn't actually cost that much more than a good quality saber saw.
>
>A bit more of an initial investment but this is a tool that will never
>collect dust!
>
>See attached.
>
>Jim....back home after watching storms close down the Denver airport last
>night.....until midnight. Well, as long as that doesn't happen next Friday
>morning when I get to GO TO BRODHEAD!!!
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>>From: airlion <airlion@bellsouth.net>
>>Sent: Jul 9, 2011 7:08 AM
>>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
>>
>>
>>hi bubbleboy, just get a Bosch saber saw and clamp it upside down in your
>>vise
>>and saw with a metal cutting blade. It works great as long as the blades
>>are
>>sharp. Gardiner
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message ----
>>From: bubbleboy <scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
>>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>>Sent: Sat, July 9, 2011 8:42:20 AM
>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Best way to cut metal fittings?
>>
>><scott.dawson3@bigpond.com>
>>
>>I was going to buy my metal parts ready made but have been thinking about
>>doing
>>it all myself. I have done a little bit of metal work in my time and get by
>>with
>>a hacksaw and grinder usually.
>>
>>
>>Is there a trick that makes cutting these parts any easier? Do you use a
>>band
>>saw for metal or do I tough it out with a hacksaw? Im using 4130.
>>
>>I know laser cutting is an option but just doing my sums as buying them
>>ready
>>made adds a chunk to the build cost. I have a mate who can Tig weld etc.
>>
>>Scotty
>>
>>--------
>>Scotty
>>
>>Tamworth, Australia
>>Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
>>
>>www.scottyspietenpol.com
>>
>>Rudder, Vert stab, Elevators and 30 Ribs built...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345557#345557
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 30
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|
>Does anyone remember when car fenders cracked from vibration/rough roads?
>We had an old '29 A model and it had cracked fenders on the front. We had
>a torch to weld with but Daddy waited until the cracks were 3 or 4" long
>before he fixed them.
Sounds like the mounting tabs on my cooling eyebrows... I should be carrying
a couple of spares along with some pop rivets and a rivet puller, the way it
goes through those things.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
Flying Squirrel N2069Z "Rocket"
Medford, OR
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 31
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|
Subject: | Re: cracked fenders |
In a message dated 7/9/2011 3:08:18 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
taildrags@hotmail.com writes:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>
>Does anyone remember when car fenders cracked from vibration/rough roads?
>We had an old '29 A model and it had cracked fenders on the front. We had
>a torch to weld with but Daddy waited until the cracks were 3 or 4" long
>before he fixed them.
Sounds like the mounting tabs on my cooling eyebrows... I should be
carrying
a couple of spares along with some pop rivets and a rivet puller, the way
it
goes through those things.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
Flying Squirrel N2069Z "Rocket"
Medford, OR
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
I should have made them out of 4130
CMC
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Subject: | cuting metal fittings |
I bought one of those saws like Jim Markle also. Mine was a Delta. Just tip
up to the vertical position. I fabricated a beefier "table" than the one t
hey had. Once that was done the saw worked very well. Only downside to thes
e types is the throat depth is fairly small. But somehow I managed to work
around this. You can do most sawing operations sitting down on the "horse"
part of the saw. Kind of nice during a long work day.
Dan Helsper
Puryear TN
10 days till I leave for PG, then on to Brodhead!!
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Subject: | Re: Pilot's seat height question |
Thanks, gents.
I'm going with the assumption that the 21" dimension is a mistake (which is what
I thought in the first place, but thought I'd ask anyway). Apparently that is
the only error in the whole set of plans, so that's pretty good. :)
Bill C.
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345630#345630
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Subject: | Re: Pilot's seat height question |
Bill,
I'm not so sure that maybe the intent was to allow 1" of that seatback to
stick up for an attachment of the turtledeck. I chose to do differently,
though. I'll give BP the benefit...
GB
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Church
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 2:47 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pilot's seat height question
Thanks, gents.
I'm going with the assumption that the 21" dimension is a mistake (which is
what I thought in the first place, but thought I'd ask anyway). Apparently
that is the only error in the whole set of plans, so that's pretty good. :)
Bill C.
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345630#345630
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Subject: | Re: Pilot's seat height question |
I just checked mine ,-and I think what we're not taking into account is t
he =0Aangle of the seat back --- maybe?- norm=0A--------
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=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Bill Church <bills
piet@sympatico.ca>=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Sat, July 9,
2011 5:47:27 PM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pilot's seat height question
ico.ca>=0A=0AThanks, gents.=0AI'm going with the assumption that the 21" di
mension is a mistake (which is what =0AI thought in the first place, but th
ought I'd ask anyway). Apparently that is =0Athe only error in the whole se
t of plans, so that's pretty good.- :)=0A=0ABill C.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead th
is topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34
==
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220810979400&s
sPageName=ADME:B:SS:MOTORS:1123
Jack
DSM
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Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
I have the Delta metal band saw, but I want to show you what cuts a lot of metal
in my shop. After using this shear you will wonder how you ever got by without
one. This is from Woodward FAB, they are made in China but the blade stays
sharp and I have no problem shearing .090. The handle is 24 inches long. You
can even buy the demo unit at Oshkosh after the big show and save some money.
I like this tool !
Dan
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345661#345661
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/metal_shear_671.jpg
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I just happened across a set of free plans for a rubber band-powered
Piet with a 28-inch wingspan. It is at
http://smallflyingarts.com/free-plans/, about a third of the way down
the page.
(Probably everyone knows about them already.)
Owen
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Subject: | Re: Amazing 3D printer |
I do not see a link to know what you are talking about.
Do not archive.
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
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Subject: | Another question about the pilot's seat |
Just got thinking about the pilot's seat, and I began debating whether to make
it removable or not. The plans don't show it to be removable, but I know that
many builders have made their seats removable. But removable means more complicated,
and most likely also heavier. So, the question is:
For the builders that have made their rear seat bottoms removable, do you think
it was worthwhile or not? I'm sure it may be handy once in a while, but would
you consider it necessary? How often do you use the feature?
Bill C.
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345703#345703
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Subject: | Re: Pilot's seat height question |
To Gary: I guess that's possible, but it sure doesn't look like that in the drawings.
To Norm: The angle will result in a slightly larger dimension than the vertical
dimension, but not enough to account for a whole inch.
I think it's just a small error.
Bill C.
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Subject: | Re: Amazing 3D printer |
Hi Chuck,
We've got a 3-D printer at work and it is bloody awesome! It's used as a prototyping
tool to make sure that form, fit and aestheticss all look okay. I've had
lots of thoughts about what we could do with it as well. It's basically a printer
that blows dust and glue together. Afterwards with coat the assembly and
paint it for durability. Pretty tough material when you are done with it.
Lorin
--------
Lorin Miller
Waiex N81YX
GN-1 N30PP
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Subject: | Re: Best way to cut metal fittings? |
Thank you very much for everyones suggestions. I looked over here and a cheap metal
band saw is around $600 which is a lot more than I thought they would be!
I like the idea of the Sabre Saw. There is one on Ebay right now so will keep
an eye on it and see what it goes for. I wasnt looking forward to cutting with
a hacksaw.
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Rudder, Vert stab, Elevators and 30 Ribs built...
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Subject: | Re: Pilot's seat height question |
Bill,
I am at the same point in building my fuselage as yourself so I'm following the
responses with interest. My take on the plans (reference your first picture
from the plans) is this-- to plans the long gusset behind the diagonal strut is
2 1/4"; the seat bottom is just below this. Guessing to scale, I would say
the seat bottom would be at 1 3/4" from the bottom of the longeron itself (not
the long bottom gusset glued there!). Jack's picture shows his seat above the
gusset; his plane is done and flies and shows that "to plans" here probably doesn't
matter. I cut my cardboard template to plans and it was too long as you've
already stated. I think I will cut my seat back to 1 3/4" from the bottom
of the longeron. I'd be interested in knowing what you end up doing.
By the way, I've been following your build on mykitplane.com; I'd love it if you
added more pictures at this stage of your build. Will you be at Brodhead?
Tom
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