Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:50 AM - Re: I wish it could fly! (K5YAC)
2. 04:06 AM - Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut (helspersew@aol.com)
3. 04:11 AM - Re: I wish it could fly! (Mark Stanley)
4. 04:51 AM - Ford A/B site (Mark Stanley)
5. 05:05 AM - Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut (airlion)
6. 06:09 AM - Re: Ford A/B site (Ben Charvet)
7. 06:37 AM - Re: Ford A/B site (Mark Stanley)
8. 07:08 AM - Cabane fitting weld (Kringle)
9. 08:43 AM - Re: Cabane fitting weld (Bill Church)
10. 09:17 AM - Re: I wish it could fly! (aerocarjake)
11. 01:31 PM - Re: Re: Cabane fitting weld (Jim Ash)
12. 02:21 PM - Re: Re: Cabane fitting weld (C N Campbell)
13. 02:41 PM - Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut (tkreiner)
14. 03:06 PM - Re: Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut (helspersew@aol.com)
15. 03:36 PM - Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut (tkreiner)
16. 03:38 PM - Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut (tkreiner)
17. 03:46 PM - Re: Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut (helspersew@aol.com)
18. 04:24 PM - Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut (tkreiner)
19. 04:35 PM - Re: Cabane fitting weld (Kringle)
20. 05:48 PM - Re: Photos of jury strut fittings on aluminum struts (VanDy)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: I wish it could fly! |
Looking good Curt!
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364430#364430
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut |
Gardiner,
I believe I made them 6" or 7" long (can't remember), held in by two 1/4" d
ia AN4 bolts. The J-3 fork ends are steel and have some kind of corrosion-p
roofing coating. Can't honestly say what it is. It may not be cadmium. Hope
this helps.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: airlion <airlion@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Fri, Jan 20, 2012 7:49 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut
Dan, how long are your one inch metal into your struts.? Are you sure that
the piper rod ends are cad plated? I don't know what that means. My rod en
ds are steel because my magnet tells me so.I have not ordered my struts yet
. Cheers, Gardiner
From: "helspersew@aol.com" <helspersew@aol.com>
Sent: Fri, January 20, 2012 7:25:40 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut
Listers,
Found a couple more pics, illustrating the lower end of the aluminum strut.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: I wish it could fly! |
Hi Curt,
Looking good!.....bet you made the official 'airplane noises'??
Mark Stanley
Japan
-----Original Message-----
From: Piet2112
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 3:09 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: I wish it could fly!
I finally got to sit in the pilot seat of a Piet!
Curt Merdan
Flower Mound, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364374#364374
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2849_303.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2850_148.jpg
Message 4
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Hi Pieters,
Just surfing around the web and came accross this site
http://www.fordgarage.com/
It covers allot of Ford A/B bits and pieces inc engine etc.
I havn=1B$B!G=1B(Bt look at it all yet but for newbies like me thinking
about the Ford A for the Piet, it may be of interset.
Appologies if it has been posted before.
Mark Stanley
Japan
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut |
Thanks Dan. I will go from there and put some kind of coating on the threads.
Gardiner
________________________________
From: "helspersew@aol.com" <helspersew@aol.com>
Sent: Sat, January 21, 2012 7:03:21 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut
Gardiner,
I believe I made them 6" or 7" long (can't remember), held in by two 1/4" dia
AN4 bolts. The J-3 fork ends are steel and have some kind of corrosion-proofing
coating. Can't honestly say what it is. It may not be cadmium. Hope this helps.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: airlion <airlion@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Fri, Jan 20, 2012 7:49 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut
Dan, how long are your one inch metal into your struts.? Are you sure that the
piper rod ends are cad plated? I don't know what that means. My rod ends are
steel because my magnet tells me so.I have not ordered my struts yet. Cheers,
Gardiner
________________________________
From: "helspersew@aol.com" <helspersew@aol.com>
Sent: Fri, January 20, 2012 7:25:40 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut
Listers,
Found a couple more pics, illustrating the lower end of the aluminum strut.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
p://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Ford A/B site |
I just finished restoring a Model A pickup. Its amazing how cheap parts
are for these old cars. Try brattons,.com.
Ben
On 1/21/2012 7:48 AM, Mark Stanley wrote:
> Hi Pieters,
> Just surfing around the web and came accross this site
> http://www.fordgarage.com/
> It covers allot of Ford A/B bits and pieces inc engine etc.
> I havn$B!G(Bt look at it all yet but for newbies like me thinking about the
> Ford A for the Piet, it may be of interset.
> Appologies if it has been posted before.
> Mark Stanley
> Japan
> *
>
>
> *
--
Ben Charvet, PharmD
Staff Pharmacist
Parrish Medical center
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Ford A/B site |
Thanks Ben, will check it out.
Mark S
Japan
do not archive
From: Ben Charvet
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Ford A/B site
I just finished restoring a Model A pickup. Its amazing how cheap parts
are for these old cars. Try brattons,.com.
Ben
On 1/21/2012 7:48 AM, Mark Stanley wrote:
Hi Pieters,
Just surfing around the web and came accross this site
http://www.fordgarage.com/
It covers allot of Ford A/B bits and pieces inc engine etc.
I havn=1B$B!G=1B(Bt look at it all yet but for newbies like me
thinking about the Ford A for the Piet, it may be of interset.
Appologies if it has been posted before.
Mark Stanley
Japan
--
Ben Charvet, PharmD
Staff Pharmacist
Parrish Medical center
Message 8
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| Subject: | Cabane fitting weld |
What is the best way to weld the cabana fittings for the center sections? Do you
do this while they are fitted to the spar or tack weld on the spar and remove
for final welding? Perhaps some just mark them and do the welding before assembly
all together. They fit so snug to the triangle plywood pieces glued to
the spar that I want to make sure and keep this fit tight.
--------
Do Not Archive
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364443#364443
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| Subject: | Re: Cabane fitting weld |
John,
You really don't want to be welding adjacent to your spar.
Why don't you build a jig? Use some scrap wood and duplicate the geometry of the
spar/triangular plywood. Place the metal parts in the jig, tack weld, and remove
for final welding. Things may still move slightly during the welding process,
but not much. As long as it is pretty close, you can adjust (fine tune) the
welded assembly with a hammer. Ideally, the triangular plywood should be fitted
to suit the welded brackets, but it sounds like you've already glued them
in place. As long as you make your jig as close to the real thing as possible,
it should work fine.
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364447#364447
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| Subject: | Re: I wish it could fly! |
Looks fantastic....! Your Piet is almost finished....
Do not archive
--------
Jake Schultz - curator,
Newport Way Air Museum (OK, it's just my home)
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364451#364451
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cabane fitting weld |
I second Bill's comment about it not being prudent to weld against your spar. You
don't want to be welding up against any wood, scrap or otherwise. I've welded
on stuff that was supported by wood parts, 2x4's and whatever. If you get too
close and the wood starts to smoke, it starts to effect the welding process
itself, and I suspect it can contaminate the weld also.
I have a whack of copper (maybe 1/2"x4"x8") given to me by someone unremembered
many years ago; I think it was a grounding block for something that carried enough
current to power a small town. I use it as a jigging tool for welding sometimes
to back up my parts. The copper sinks heat like crazy, so it's not going
to become part of your work piece. For something like you're suggesting, I'd
probably clamp the parts to my copper block with some vice grips. With the clamps,
you stand a much better shot at the work coming out straight and square.
You still have to watch that shrinkage doesn't deform the part, but by understanding
where the weld shrinkage is going to occur, you can plan for it and come
out with a good part.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Church <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
>Sent: Jan 21, 2012 11:41 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Cabane fitting weld
>
>
>John,
>
>You really don't want to be welding adjacent to your spar.
>
>Why don't you build a jig? Use some scrap wood and duplicate the geometry of the
spar/triangular plywood. Place the metal parts in the jig, tack weld, and remove
for final welding. Things may still move slightly during the welding process,
but not much. As long as it is pretty close, you can adjust (fine tune)
the welded assembly with a hammer. Ideally, the triangular plywood should be fitted
to suit the welded brackets, but it sounds like you've already glued them
in place. As long as you make your jig as close to the real thing as possible,
it should work fine.
>
>Bill C.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364447#364447
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Cabane fitting weld |
I agree with Bill. That is exactly how I did it. The welding pretty much
made a mess of the jig but I was going to discard it anyway. Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Church" <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Cabane fitting weld
> <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
>
> John,
>
> You really don't want to be welding adjacent to your spar.
>
> Why don't you build a jig? Use some scrap wood and duplicate the geometry
> of the spar/triangular plywood. Place the metal parts in the jig, tack
> weld, and remove for final welding. Things may still move slightly during
> the welding process, but not much. As long as it is pretty close, you can
> adjust (fine tune) the welded assembly with a hammer. Ideally, the
> triangular plywood should be fitted to suit the welded brackets, but it
> sounds like you've already glued them in place. As long as you make your
> jig as close to the real thing as possible, it should work fine.
>
> Bill C.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364447#364447
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut |
Dan,
Nice work, and looks plenty sturdy.
What thread does your Clevis have?
Do you know if a 7/16-20 thread would be appropriate for this method of lower strut.
( I was able to pick up 6 mint matching Clevis' on eBay with 7/16 threads...
Enough for struts and angled cabane struts.)
--------
Tom Kreiner
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364465#364465
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut |
Tom,
The J-3 wing strut forks that I used (from Wag Aero) has that same thread,
7/16 x 20. You should be good to go. Are your forks from aircraft?
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
PS where are you from?
-----Original Message-----
From: tkreiner <tkreiner@gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Jan 21, 2012 4:41 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut
Dan,
Nice work, and looks plenty sturdy.
What thread does your Clevis have?
Do you know if a 7/16-20 thread would be appropriate for this method of low
er
trut. ( I was able to pick up 6 mint matching Clevis' on eBay with 7/16
hreads... Enough for struts and angled cabane struts.)
--------
om Kreiner
ead this topic online here:
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut |
Dan,
Yes, they were advertised as "from a Stearman."
Not sure how great a buy it was, but I paid $26. For the lot.
--------
Tom Kreiner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364474#364474
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut |
Dan,
Sorry, didn't read the entire post...
I'm in Spring, TX, (Houston area).
--------
Tom Kreiner
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut |
Tom,
That is a great buy!! Current price on one J-3 fork is $84.00. You did good
!!
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: tkreiner <tkreiner@gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Jan 21, 2012 5:38 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut
Dan,
Sorry, didn't read the entire post...
I'm in Spring, TX, (Houston area).
--------
om Kreiner
ead this topic online here:
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-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Photos, lower end of aluminum strut |
Dan,
Sorry, didn't read the entire post...
I'm in Spring, TX, (Houston area).
--------
Tom Kreiner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364479#364479
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| Subject: | Re: Cabane fitting weld |
Thanks, I'll let you know how it turns out.
--------
Do Not Archive
John
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| Subject: | Re: Photos of jury strut fittings on aluminum struts |
hope this pic helps some too, I'll check the total hours next time I am in my garage.
--------
www.vansaviation.com follow my Piet rebuild there!
almost dissasembled, getting ready to order all AN hardware and SS cable
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364486#364486
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