Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:11 AM - brass tipped prop (John Greenlee)
2. 08:49 AM - Re: Stewart Systems Question? (Ben Charvet)
3. 08:58 AM - rib jig (JOSEPH SWITHIN)
4. 08:59 AM - Re: FOR SALE (PROJECT) (bcolleran)
5. 09:12 AM - Re: brass tipped prop (Chris)
6. 09:16 AM - Re: rib jig (Ben Charvet)
7. 09:47 AM - Re: rib jig (Greg Cardinal)
8. 09:52 AM - Re: rib jig (shad bell)
9. 09:56 AM - Steam box for bending plywood (shad bell)
10. 10:02 AM - Re: rib jig (Bill Church)
11. 10:04 AM - Re: rib jig (Ken Bickers)
12. 10:14 AM - Re: rib jig (Jerry Dotson)
13. 10:49 AM - Re: brass tipped prop (helspersew@aol.com)
14. 11:05 AM - Re: brass tipped prop (Gary Boothe)
15. 11:06 AM - Re: rib jig (Jack@textors.com)
16. 11:07 AM - Rib Jig (Gary Boothe)
17. 11:21 AM - Re: brass tipped prop (airlion)
18. 12:25 PM - Plans For Sale (bcolleran)
19. 12:31 PM - Re: rib jig (dgaldrich)
20. 03:31 PM - Re: brass tipped prop (helspersew@aol.com)
21. 03:55 PM - Re: brass tipped prop (airlion)
22. 04:42 PM - Re: Steam box for bending plywood (shad bell)
23. 09:40 PM - Re: Steam box for bending plywood (shad bell)
Message 1
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Subject: | brass tipped prop |
Hello,
I carved a few props for the Model A several years ago. What I have never
found is instructions on how to apply a brass leading edge. Has anyone here
done this? Do you have any instructions?
Thanks!
JMG
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Stewart Systems Question? |
I also used the 1.7 oz fabric and did the full shrink. If you want to
see an example of a "light structure" look at a Graham Lee Nieuport,
which has the tail surfaces and trailing edges made of 1/2 inch .032
aluminum tubes. I have an unfinished project in my hangar, that when I
finally get around to will probably not get the full shrink. As
aircraft structures go the Piet is pretty stout.
Ben Charvet
Titusville, Fl
On 1/25/2012 12:45 PM, Chris Rusch wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Chris Rusch"<rmdinfo@lakefield.net>
>
> I just bought all of the SS supplies to start covering, and watching the video
they say you might want to NOT shrink the material to the full 350 degrees if
the structure is light. Did anyone have any problem going to the full shrink
on a Piet structure? Also, i went with the light 1.7 ceconite uncertified.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Chris
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364820#364820
>
>
--
Ben Charvet, PharmD
Staff Pharmacist
Parrish Medical center
Message 3
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When you builders made your jigs for doing the ribs, did anyone drill holes
at the glue spots so any excess would fall away? How many wet the two surf
aces prior to applying glue? Last but not least, did anyone use the west sy
stem?-=0A=0AJoe Swithin=0AMorris, IL
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: FOR SALE (PROJECT) |
Ladies and Gent's my project is SOLD! The new proud owners came and got her today.
I still have a set of plans if anyone is interested. Please let me know
and I can have them fedex out to you as soon as possible.
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365031#365031
Message 5
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Subject: | brass tipped prop |
John
You need to download this book
The Airplane Propeller
By United States. Army. Air Corps, United States. Adjutant-General's Office
http://books.google.com/books?id=JndBAAAAIAAJ
<http://books.google.com/books?id=JndBAAAAIAAJ&dq=aircraft%20propeller%20man
ufacturing%20coppering&pg=PA7#v=onepage&q=aircraft%20propeller%20manufacturi
ng%20coppering&f=false>
&dq=aircraft%20propeller%20manufacturing%20coppering&pg=PA7#v=onepage&q=airc
raft%20propeller%20manufacturing%20coppering&f=false
The information your looking for starts on page 107 of the PDF.
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Greenlee
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 8:08 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
Hello,
I carved a few props for the Model A several years ago. What I have never
found is instructions on how to apply a brass leading edge. Has anyone here
done this? Do you have any instructions?
Thanks!
JMG
Message 6
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I just took some plastic shopping bags and cut them into 2 inch squares
and put a piece under each glue joint. The plastic would pull right off
of T-88 and made it real easy to get the rib out of the jig. A few
years ago at the Sun-N-Fun workshop someone made a rib in the jig
without any protection under the glue joints, and I'm wondering if they
ever got that rib out.
Ben
On 1/28/2012 11:55 AM, JOSEPH SWITHIN wrote:
> When you builders made your jigs for doing the ribs, did anyone drill
> holes at the glue spots so any excess would fall away? How many wet
> the two surfaces prior to applying glue? Last but not least, did
> anyone use the west system?
>
> Joe Swithin
> Morris, IL
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Ben Charvet, PharmD
Staff Pharmacist
Parrish Medical center
Message 7
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|
My rib jig was built using a 2 X 8 piece of lumber. Material was removed
from the 2 X 8 at the glue joints.
I used Aerolite adhesive applying resin on one surface and activator on
the mating surface. If using T-88 or West it is good practice to apply
adhesive to both mating surfaces.
Greg Cardinal
Minneapolis
----- Original Message -----
From: JOSEPH SWITHIN
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 10:55 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: rib jig
When you builders made your jigs for doing the ribs, did anyone drill
holes at the glue spots so any excess would fall away? How many wet the
two surfaces prior to applying glue? Last but not least, did anyone use
the west system?
Joe Swithin
Morris, IL
Message 8
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I stole the ole lady's wax paper out of the kitchen for my rib jig, it work
s ok.- It is a pain in the butt to put those little pieces of wax paperin
the jig for every rib joint.- I thought posibly using a rib length piece
of thin clear plastic over your full size print, and use the white nylon/t
eflon (hard plastic) stock to cut your jig blocks out of would be the ultim
ate.- It would cost a little more than using scrap wood for the blocks, b
ut would be easier, I think the dried glue would simply chip, peel off the
plastic surfaces when dry.- Wow! why did I not think of this years ago, g
uess life is even tougher when your dumb.
-
Shad
--- On Sat, 1/28/12, Ben Charvet <bencharvet@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Ben Charvet <bencharvet@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: rib jig
I just took some plastic shopping bags and cut them into 2 inch squares and
put a piece under each glue joint.- The plastic would pull right off of
T-88 and made it real easy to get the rib out of the jig.- A few years ag
o at the Sun-N-Fun workshop someone made a rib in the jig without any prote
ction under the glue joints, and I'm wondering if they ever got that rib ou
t.
Ben
On 1/28/2012 11:55 AM, JOSEPH SWITHIN wrote:
When you builders made your jigs for doing the ribs, did anyone drill holes
at the glue spots so any excess would fall away? How many wet the two surf
aces prior to applying glue? Last but not least, did anyone use the west sy
stem?-
Joe Swithin
Morris, IL
--
Ben Charvet, PharmD
Staff Pharmacist
Parrish Medical center
Message 9
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Subject: | Steam box for bending plywood |
Well guys I am going out to build my steam box for my leading edge plywood,
I will let y'all know how it works.- 1 steel gas can, few 2x4's,- coup
le sheets of plywood, and a turkey deep fryer propane burner.- I hope I r
ember to empty the gas out of the can before throwing the flames to it ha h
a.- I will post some pics of it in action if it works.
-
Shad
Do not archive
Message 10
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Joe, the disadvantage that I can see with a jig having holes at the joints is that
while excess epoxy will be able to fall away, not ALL of the excess will drip
off. You will likely end up with a small blob of hardened epoxy that you will
need to remove before attaching the gussets. By using a method like Ben described,
any excess epoxy remains flat, making the attachment of gusset plates
much easier. On the other hand, you really don't need that much epoxy. If you're
a tidy builder, there really shouldn't be much excess glue.
For epoxy, I used T-88, which is very simple to mix; 1:1 by volume - no ratios
to calculate, no need for weigh scales. Some people have expressed a preference
for the West System, but I don't know what the preference is based on. I like
simple, and a one to one mixing ratio is as simple as it can get (for a two-part
epoxy).
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365043#365043
Message 11
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I used wax paper, too, until I discovered Saran Wrap (actually I already
knew about, just hadn't thought of its use in a jig). Just lay a long
length of Saran Wrap over the jig. The pieces of wood will push it down
into the jig as you assemble the rib or tail pieces. Easy and fast.
On Sat, Jan 28, 2012 at 10:49 AM, shad bell <aviatorbell@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I stole the ole lady's wax paper out of the kitchen for my rib jig, it
> works ok. It is a pain in the butt to put those little pieces of wax
> paperin the jig for every rib joint. I thought posibly using a rib length
> piece of thin clear plastic over your full size print, and use the white
> nylon/teflon (hard plastic) stock to cut your jig blocks out of would be
> the ultimate. It would cost a little more than using scrap wood for the
> blocks, but would be easier, I think the dried glue would simply chip, peel
> off the plastic surfaces when dry. Wow! why did I not think of this years
> ago, guess life is even tougher when your dumb.
>
> Shad
>
> --- On *Sat, 1/28/12, Ben Charvet <bencharvet@gmail.com>* wrote:
>
>
> From: Ben Charvet <bencharvet@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: rib jig
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, January 28, 2012, 12:13 PM
>
> I just took some plastic shopping bags and cut them into 2 inch squares
> and put a piece under each glue joint. The plastic would pull right off of
> T-88 and made it real easy to get the rib out of the jig. A few years ago
> at the Sun-N-Fun workshop someone made a rib in the jig without any
> protection under the glue joints, and I'm wondering if they ever got that
> rib out.
>
> Ben
> On 1/28/2012 11:55 AM, JOSEPH SWITHIN wrote:
>
> When you builders made your jigs for doing the ribs, did anyone drill
> holes at the glue spots so any excess would fall away? How many wet the two
> surfaces prior to applying glue? Last but not least, did anyone use the
> west system?
>
> Joe Swithin
> Morris, IL
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> --
> Ben Charvet, PharmD
> Staff Pharmacist
> Parrish Medical center
>
> *
>
> " rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
> llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 12
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|
I used that aggravating sandwich wrap. The roll was wider than the jig so I just
unrolled it right on top of the jig. Put the pieces in. When I took the rib
out of the jig the Saran wrap came with it. Put a fresh piece in and start again
30 times and you are done. I used T-88
do not archive
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
now covering and painting
21" wheels
Lycoming O-235 C2C
Jay Anderson CloudCars prop 76 X 44
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365046#365046
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: brass tipped prop |
Hi John,
I have posed this very question to the list previously, with few results. S
ome of the guys forwarded some helpful information, but it never really get
s down to the difficult part, which is forming the brass to the exact shape
of the prop in order to match it perfectly. Obviously this has been done c
ountless times in the past, but I haven't been able to come up the secret.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: John Greenlee <jmgreenlee@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sat, Jan 28, 2012 10:11 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
Hello,
I carved a few props for the Model A several years ago. What I have never
found is instructions on how to apply a brass leading edge. Has anyone her
e done this? Do you have any instructions?
Thanks!
JMG
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
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Message 14
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Subject: | brass tipped prop |
4 mil visqueen right over the rib drawing. After 3 years, and 100's of ribs
(seemed like it), it's still good. But, the BEST NEWS is.sounds like you're
building an airplane!!
Gary Boothe
NX308MB
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
John
You need to download this book
The Airplane Propeller
By United States. Army. Air Corps, United States. Adjutant-General's Office
http://books.google.com/books?id=JndBAAAAIAAJ
<http://books.google.com/books?id=JndBAAAAIAAJ&dq=aircraft%20propeller%20man
ufacturing%20coppering&pg=PA7#v=onepage&q=aircraft%20propeller%20manufacturi
ng%20coppering&f=false>
&dq=aircraft%20propeller%20manufacturing%20coppering&pg=PA7#v=onepage&q=airc
raft%20propeller%20manufacturing%20coppering&f=false
The information your looking for starts on page 107 of the PDF.
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Greenlee
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 8:08 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
Hello,
I carved a few props for the Model A several years ago. What I have never
found is instructions on how to apply a brass leading edge. Has anyone here
done this? Do you have any instructions?
Thanks!
JMG
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 15
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|
Joe see here http://www.textors.com/RibJig.jpg I use west system for areas w
here I need a large batch of glue, not for the ribs
jack
Desmond
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 28, 2012, at 10:55 AM, JOSEPH SWITHIN <joeswithin@yahoo.com> wrote:
> When you builders made your jigs for doing the ribs, did anyone drill hole
s at the glue spots so any excess would fall away? How many wet the two surf
aces prior to applying glue? Last but not least, did anyone use the west sys
tem?
>
> Joe Swithin
> Morris, IL
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 16
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|
Oops, sorry, that was meant for Joe Swithin.obviously.
Gary Boothe
NX308MB
From: Gary Boothe [mailto:gboothe5@comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 11:03 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
4 mil visqueen right over the rib drawing. After 3 years, and 100's of ribs
(seemed like it), it's still good. But, the BEST NEWS is.sounds like you're
building an airplane!!
Gary Boothe
NX308MB
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
John
You need to download this book
The Airplane Propeller
By United States. Army. Air Corps, United States. Adjutant-General's Office
http://books.google.com/books?id=JndBAAAAIAAJ
<http://books.google.com/books?id=JndBAAAAIAAJ&dq=aircraft%20propeller%20man
ufacturing%20coppering&pg=PA7#v=onepage&q=aircraft%20propeller%20manufacturi
ng%20coppering&f=false>
&dq=aircraft%20propeller%20manufacturing%20coppering&pg=PA7#v=onepage&q=airc
raft%20propeller%20manufacturing%20coppering&f=false
The information your looking for starts on page 107 of the PDF.
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Greenlee
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 8:08 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
Hello,
I carved a few props for the Model A several years ago. What I have never
found is instructions on how to apply a brass leading edge. Has anyone here
done this? Do you have any instructions?
Thanks!
JMG
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: brass tipped prop |
hi Dan, I hate to keeping harping on this.I plan to order the laarger strut
s that take a 1 in sq bar.. Then drill it to accept my 7 16 in strut forks,
My forks came off my old piper struts that were steel. The forks don't rus
t but are magnetic in that they are not stainless steel. I was told to put
a ss shim inthe hole before threading the bar. If they don't rust then woul
d it be OK to just tap into the aluminum bar. Gardiner
--- On Sat, 1/28/12, helspersew@aol.com <helspersew@aol.com> wrote:
From: helspersew@aol.com <helspersew@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
=0AHi John,=0A=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0AI have posed this very question to the list
previously, with few results. Some of the guys forwarded some helpful info
rmation, but it never really gets down to the difficult part, which is form
ing the brass to the exact shape of the prop in order to match it perfectly
. Obviously this has been done countless times in the past, but I haven't b
een able to come up the secret.=0A=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0ADan Helsper=0A=0A=0APur
year, TN
=0A
=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----
=0AFrom: John Greenlee <jmgreenlee@sbcglobal.net>
=0ATo: pietenpol-list <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
=0ASent: Sat, Jan 28, 2012 10:11 am
=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A#yiv1729584120 #yiv1729584120AOLMsgPart_1_cc44bffd-758b-44f6-b5
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d-758b-44f6-b522-ea8a9cfae6e5 div.yiv1729584120Section1 {}=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AH
ello,=0A=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0AI carved a few props for the Model A several year
s ago.- What I have never found is instructions on how to apply a brass l
eading edge.- Has anyone here done this?- Do you have any instructions?
=0A=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0AThanks!=0A=0A=0A
=0AJMG=0A=0A
" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=0A=0A=0A
Message 18
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Ladies and Gents.
I have sold my piet and now have a full set of plans less a full size rib for sale.
It is everything that you would get for the pietenpol family.
They are lightly used. If you are interested I am asking 150.00 and I can fedex
them out tonight.
I use paypal and can complete the transaction anytime.
Bill
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I did the holes under the joints and used West System. The comment about having
small blobs of glue on the opposite joint is correct but those are easy to buff
off with a stationary belt sander. This has the added benefit of giving a
smooth, flat, raw wood surface for the second gusset to adhere to rather than
a slick epoxy spot which may require a quick roughing up in order for the glue
to bond correctly.
West System is actually simpler than T-88 to mix. One stroke of each pump gives
correctly proportioned amounts. You don't have to go to some fast food franchise
to get tiny cups or something equivalent. The down side is the "one stroke
minimum" dispensing can give you more mix than you need for small jobs. The
West System stuff isn't as "thick" as T-88 and that might be an issue if filling
gaps but is an advantage doing any kind of larger laminations.
Dave
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Subject: | Re: brass tipped prop |
Gardiner,
I am thoroughly confused. I flat out don't understand your question. Could
you please re-state. Thanks.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: airlion <airlion@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sat, Jan 28, 2012 1:21 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
hi Dan, I hate to keeping harping on this.I plan to order the laarger strut
s that take a 1 in sq bar.. Then drill it to accept my 7 16 in strut forks,
My forks came off my old piper struts that were steel. The forks don't rus
t but are magnetic in that they are not stainless steel. I was told to put
a ss shim inthe hole before threading the bar. If they don't rust then woul
d it be OK to just tap into the aluminum bar. Gardiner
--- On Sat, 1/28/12, helspersew@aol.com <helspersew@aol.com> wrote:
From: helspersew@aol.com <helspersew@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
Hi John,
I have posed this very question to the list previously, with few results. S
ome of the guys forwarded some helpful information, but it never really get
s down to the difficult part, which is forming the brass to the exact shape
of the prop in order to match it perfectly. Obviously this has been done c
ountless times in the past, but I haven't been able to come up the secret.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: John Greenlee <jmgreenlee@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sat, Jan 28, 2012 10:11 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
Hello,
I carved a few props for the Model A several years ago. What I have never
found is instructions on how to apply a brass leading edge. Has anyone her
e done this? Do you have any instructions?
Thanks!
JMG
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Message 21
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Subject: | Re: brass tipped prop |
Sorry about that Dan,I tend to ramble around. I want to order the large str
uts from Carlson. I have forked ends from my old Piper struts and I wondere
d how you did yours. Are your struts adjustable? I am worried about corrosi
on between the steel fork and the aluminum strut. Gardiner
--- On Sat, 1/28/12, helspersew@aol.com <helspersew@aol.com> wrote:
From: helspersew@aol.com <helspersew@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
=0AGardiner,=0A=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0AI am thoroughly confused. I flat out don't
understand your question. Could you please re-state. Thanks.=0A=0A=0A-
=0A=0A=0ADan Helsper=0A=0A=0APuryear, TN
=0A
=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----
=0AFrom: airlion <airlion@bellsouth.net>
=0ATo: pietenpol-list <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
=0ASent: Sat, Jan 28, 2012 1:21 pm
=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0Ahi Dan, I hate to keeping harping on this.I plan to or
der the laarger struts that take a 1 in sq bar.. Then drill it to accept my
7 16 in strut forks, My forks came off my old piper struts that were steel
. The forks don't rust but are magnetic in that they are not stainless stee
l. I was told to put a ss shim inthe hole before threading the bar. If they
don't rust then would it be OK to just tap into the aluminum bar. Gardiner
=0A
=0A--- On Sat, 1/28/12, helspersew@aol.com <helspersew@aol.com> wrote:
=0A=0A
=0AFrom: helspersew@aol.com <helspersew@aol.com>
=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
=0ADate: Saturday, January 28, 2012, 1:47 PM
=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AHi John,=0A=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0AI have posed this very question
to the list previously, with few results. Some of the guys forwarded some
helpful information, but it never really gets down to the difficult part, w
hich is forming the brass to the exact shape of the prop in order to match
it perfectly. Obviously this has been done countless times in the past, but
I haven't been able to come up the secret.=0A=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0ADan Helsper
=0A=0A=0APuryear, TN
=0A
=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----
=0AFrom: John Greenlee <jmgreenlee@sbcglobal.net>
=0ATo: pietenpol-list <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
=0ASent: Sat, Jan 28, 2012 10:11 am
=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: brass tipped prop
=0A
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=0A=0A=0AHello,=0A=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0AI carved a few props for the Model A se
veral years ago.- What I have never found is instructions on how to apply
a brass leading edge.- Has anyone here done this?- Do you have any ins
tructions?=0A=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0AThanks!=0A=0A=0A
=0AJMG=0A=0A
" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=0A=0Ahttp://www.matronics="nofollow"; target="_blank" href="http://f
orums.matronics.com">http:/================
=======
=0A
" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=0A=0A=0A
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Steam box for bending plywood |
Well it works!- Took about 20 min to get her boiling, and about 20 more t
o get the steam rolling out of the vent holes.- I let it steam for about
30 min, unscrewed the plywood lid and stapled it to my mock up L/E jig.-
It wrapped nicely and took about 10 min to secure to the jig.- Probably n
ot needed for a pietenpol leading edge, but.....who of you is goning to sto
p at one airplane?- I would post some pictures but my camera on my phone
took a crap, and will not work!
-
Shad
ps I will get the camera camera, I guess one tool for all is a load of crap
, I never talk on a camera, might has well not shoot pictures with a phone.
--- On Sat, 1/28/12, shad bell <aviatorbell@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: shad bell <aviatorbell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Steam box for bending plywood
Well guys I am going out to build my steam box for my leading edge plywood,
I will let y'all know how it works.- 1 steel gas can, few 2x4's,- coup
le sheets of plywood, and a turkey deep fryer propane burner.- I hope I r
ember to empty the gas out of the can before throwing the flames to it ha h
a.- I will post some pics of it in action if it works.
-
Shad
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Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Steam box for bending plywood |
Hear's a few pics of the steamer.
Shad
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