Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:21 AM - Re: Inst. Panel design (Jack)
2. 05:13 AM - Re: Inst. Panel design (Jack Phillips)
3. 05:28 AM - Fw: Re: SNF Cleanup Costs (airlion)
4. 05:31 AM - Re: Inst. Panel design (helspersew@aol.com)
5. 05:51 AM - Re: Inst. Panel design (John Hofmann)
6. 06:35 AM - Sun N Fun (Douwe Blumberg)
7. 06:38 AM - antenna for handheld (Douwe Blumberg)
8. 06:48 AM - Re: Instrument panel pix (Woodflier@aol.com)
9. 07:25 AM - Push Rod Tubes (Michael Perez)
10. 07:29 AM - Re: antenna for handheld (dgaldrich)
11. 07:39 AM - Re: Sun N Fun (Dortch, Steven D MAJ NG NG NGB)
12. 07:53 AM - Couple things to keep in mind....antenna for handheld (Jim Markle)
13. 08:09 AM - Re: Re: antenna for handheld (Jim Ash)
14. 08:14 AM - Re: Couple things to keep in mind....antenna for handheld (K5YAC)
15. 08:26 AM - Re: Re: antenna for handheld (John Kuhfahl)
16. 08:46 AM - Re: antenna for handheld (Chris)
17. 08:57 AM - Re: Sun N Fun (Jim Ash)
18. 09:03 AM - Re: Re: antenna for handheld (Jim Ash)
19. 09:12 AM - Re: Sun N Fun (Dave Nielsen)
20. 09:26 AM - Re: antenna for handheld (K5YAC)
21. 09:38 AM - Re: Sun N Fun (Bill Church)
22. 09:44 AM - Re: Inst. Panel design (aerocarjake)
23. 10:10 AM - Re: Re: Sun N Fun (Dave Nielsen)
24. 10:20 AM - Re: Re: antenna for handheld (Jack@textors.com)
25. 10:25 AM - Re: Re: antenna for handheld (AMsafetyC@aol.com)
26. 11:35 AM - Re: antenna for handheld (K5YAC)
27. 12:00 PM - Re: Re: antenna for handheld (Amsafetyc)
28. 12:14 PM - Re: antenna for handheld (Jerry Dotson)
29. 12:23 PM - Re: Re: antenna for handheld (Gerry Holland)
30. 02:13 PM - Re: antenna for handheld (Jerry Dotson)
31. 02:34 PM - Re: Push Rod Tubes (Jack Phillips)
32. 03:21 PM - Re: Push Rod Tubes (Jim Ash)
33. 03:26 PM - Re: Push Rod Tubes (Jim Ash)
34. 03:27 PM - Re: Landing Gear V question (C N Campbell)
35. 03:31 PM - Re: Push Rod Tubes (Michael Perez)
36. 03:32 PM - Re: Push Rod Tubes (Michael Perez)
37. 03:43 PM - Re: Push Rod Tubes (Jim Ash)
38. 07:17 PM - Re: Inst. Panel design (Clif Dawson)
39. 07:26 PM - Mike Cuy (Gary Boothe)
40. 07:37 PM - Re: Mike Cuy (Gary Boothe)
41. 07:40 PM - Re: Re: antenna for handheld (Clif Dawson)
42. 07:51 PM - Lift Struts (Rick Schreiber)
43. 09:36 PM - Re: Re: St. Patty's @ Jim Boyer's (Jim Boyer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Inst. Panel design |
Brian here are a few I've collected, reduced...
Jack Textor
DSM
NX1929T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 10:40 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Inst. Panel design
Group,
I have the basic set up for my panel in mind but would like to request
from the group pictures of your panels. I have combed over
WestCoast-Piet and other sites for other ideas also. I thought it might
be an interesting thread to see what people have done with instrument
placement, type of ply, or veneer wood or metal finish. I think I am
leaning towards a burl veneer panel. Look forward to any panel pics.
Thanks.
Brian
SLC-UT
Message 2
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| Subject: | Inst. Panel design |
Group,
I have the basic set up for my panel in mind but would like to request
from the group pictures of your panels. I have combed over
WestCoast-Piet and other sites for other ideas also. I thought it might
be an interesting thread to see what people have done with instrument
placement, type of ply, or veneer wood or metal finish. I think I am
leaning towards a burl veneer panel. Look forward to any panel pics.
Thanks.
Brian
SLC-UT
Brian,
Here's mine:
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: SNF Cleanup Costs |
I flew to tripple tree last year and it was great'. Look up tripple tree aerodrome
on google to see all about it. Gardiner
--- On Mon, 3/19/12, jarheadpilot82 <jarheadpilot82@hotmail.com> wrote:
> From: jarheadpilot82 <jarheadpilot82@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: SNF Cleanup Costs
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Date: Monday, March 19, 2012, 9:10 PM
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted
> by: "jarheadpilot82" <jarheadpilot82@hotmail.com>
>
> Randy,
>
> FYI
>
> [url]http://www.tripletreeflyin.com/[url]
>
> --------
> Do Not Archive
>
> Semper Fi,
>
> Terry Hand
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368931#368931
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Email Forum -
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Inst. Panel design |
Brian, Here's another.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: brian.e.jardine <brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com>
Sent: Mon, Mar 19, 2012 10:40 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Inst. Panel design
Group,
have the basic set up for my panel in mind but would like to request
rom the group pictures of your panels. I have combed over
estCoast-Piet and other sites for other ideas also. I thought it might
e an interesting thread to see what people have done with instrument
lacement, type of ply, or veneer wood or metal finish. I think I am
eaning towards a burl veneer panel. Look forward to any panel pics.
hanks.
Brian
LC-UT
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
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-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Inst. Panel design |
John Hofmann
Vice-President, Information Technology
The Rees Group, Inc.
2424 American Lane
Madison, WI 53704
Phone: 608.443.2468 ext 150
Fax: 608.443.2474
Email: jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com
On Mar 20, 2012, at 7:12 AM, Jack Phillips wrote:
>
> Group,
> I have the basic set up for my panel in mind but would like to request
> from the group pictures of your panels. I have combed over
> WestCoast-Piet and other sites for other ideas also. I thought it might
> be an interesting thread to see what people have done with instrument
> placement, type of ply, or veneer wood or metal finish. I think I am
> leaning towards a burl veneer panel. Look forward to any panel pics.
> Thanks.
>
> Brian
> SLC-UT
>
> Brian,
>
> Here's mine:
>
> <image002.jpg>
>
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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That is GREAT news about the Sun N Fun decision. Even though it sometimes
takes leadership a while to do the right thing, they eventually did the
right thing. So, kudos to them!
Douwe
Do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | antenna for handheld |
Hey all,
I think I'd like to put a little permanent antenna inside the fuse that I
could hook my handheld to.
Don't want to get into another long drawn out project, so. which commonly
available antenna (ACS) would work with a standard handheld?? I think
adapting the handheld antenna to plug into a coax cable is easy, and I
already have ground plane because I have an aluminum inspection panel under
the fuse.
I'm a moron when it comes to electronics so keep it simple please.
Thanks
Douwe
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument panel pix |
Brian, I used some mahogany ply inlays in birch ply. Not very original but
it did give my instrument grouping some definition.
There's a hatch on the back of the front seat for access to the backs of
the instruments.
Matt Paxton
NX629ML
Message 9
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Is there a good method used for removing the push rod tubes on an A-65? I w
ant a tube removed, but it seems anything I would try would just mushroom o
ut the end...making it more difficult to remove from the head. I thought ab
out trying to hammer in, or bend in, the top of the tube some to release it
.- I believe there is a bead a little further down which is still retaini
ng it.
Replacing the tube and re-beading the end is a non-event.
Michael Perez
=0AKaretaker Aero
=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
Hi Douwe
Just took a quick look at the ACS listings and it looks like most of them have
about a 20 inch mounting height requirement (a function of the polarization of
the signals) so It my be a bit tight or it might need to stick up into the turtle
deck. The AV 534 is basically a kit form of the antennae you find in DIY
publications and you can cut the threaded rod as needed for clearance. Since
there's no air load, you can just make a small aluminum "stand" for any of them
on your inspection cover so all the cabling is internal.
Dave
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368961#368961
Message 11
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Douwe, what about the guys who "voluntarily" paid the bill that was presented?
The leadership lapse first happened when SNF rushed to move the damaged planes
without the owners assistance and damaged those planes. OK they decided that they
would handle it for their own reasons. Doesn't that make them responsible
for any additional damage? Can't the owners get money from SNF for the additional
damage caused by the forklift? Then SNF decided to try billing them, But there
was a backlash. OOPs Now I will do the right thing.
Don't get me wrong. I hope that SNF learns from this and is able to move forward.
Unfortunately, the huge fly-in and airshow at Hondo has closed down due to
the financial liability incurred by the Board every time they held it.
I would like to attend SNF someday, but not if they repeat this type of decision
making.
Blue Skies,
Steve D
----- Original Message -----
From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sun N Fun
> That is GREAT news about the Sun N Fun decision. Even though it
> sometimestakes leadership a while to do the right thing, they
> eventually did the
> right thing. So, kudos to them!
>
>
>
> Douwe
>
>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Couple things to keep in mind....antenna for handheld |
Well, the length of antennas is definitely important. It's actually a function
of the frequency. So you won't want to adjust the length of that threaded rod
(if the threaded rod is the actual antenna) too much.
The length will be: the freq (122-123 MHz) divided by 234. So an antenna (1/4
wave) for 123.5 will be about 22.8 inches long.
This type of antenna (1/4 wave ground plane) is quite tolerant. In fact, the difference
in length for the entire aviation band is just 3 inches.
Something to think about....
JM
-----Original Message-----
>From: dgaldrich <dgaldrich@embarqmail.com>
>Sent: Mar 20, 2012 10:28 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: antenna for handheld
>
>
>Hi Douwe
>
>Just took a quick look at the ACS listings and it looks like most of them have
about a 20 inch mounting height requirement (a function of the polarization of
the signals) so It my be a bit tight or it might need to stick up into the turtle
deck. The AV 534 is basically a kit form of the antennae you find in DIY
publications and you can cut the threaded rod as needed for clearance. Since
there's no air load, you can just make a small aluminum "stand" for any of them
on your inspection cover so all the cabling is internal.
>
>Dave
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368961#368961
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
You should be aware of a concept called Faraday's Cage. My Cub has a tubular steel
fuselage. My first radio had a little rubber duckie on it, but the signal
was 'caged' (attenuated / weakened) by the fuselage. My transmitting power was
so weak they could barely hear me 3 miles away. Not good when entering somebody's
airport traffic area. I mounted an external antenna (and tuned it to 121.5)
with a few feet of coax running to the BNC connector where the rubber duckie
normally lived. Problem solved.
While a wood and fabric fuselage won't cage as much as steel, it will cage some.
I don't know the numbers, but I'm guessing it's negligible. The higher the frequencies,
the worse the problem, so the relatively lower aviation band is pretty
safe (my satellite tv receiver (in the gHz range) gets screwed up just having
to look through wet leaves sometimes). What you might want to be aware of
if you mount it under the turtle deck is that all that metal stuff up front is
going to attenuate your signal forward. You probably won't care, but just be
aware of it.
I mentioned tuning. Every antenna has a favorite frequency at which it performs
(resonates). That frequency is a function of its length. Lots of folks just buy
an antenna, strap it on, and go flying. When you transmit at a frequency other
than its ideal, an antenna won't work as efficiently, and difference in power
from the transmitter turns to heat. If you can find a friend with an SWR (standing
wave ratio) meter, you can hook it up between your radio and your antenna.
I bought a cheapie for around 30 bucks maybe 20 years ago when the Cub's
radio was giving me fits.
The basic drill is to transmit, note your efficiency on the meter, nip a little
off the end of the antenna with some wire cutters, and try again. As in everything
else in life, there are compromises because you have to operate on more
than one frequency. I figured 121.5 would be the most important frequency in the
band to me, so that's what I tuned mine for. The higher the frequency, the
shorter the antenna. In actuality, I started with a slighty lower frequency, then
started nipping off antenna until it peaked out and started getting worse
again, then stepped up to the 121.5. You can't easily add length to an antenna
without creating other messes, so you've gotta creep up on it.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: dgaldrich <dgaldrich@embarqmail.com>
>Sent: Mar 20, 2012 10:28 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: antenna for handheld
>
>
>Hi Douwe
>
>Just took a quick look at the ACS listings and it looks like most of them have
about a 20 inch mounting height requirement (a function of the polarization of
the signals) so It my be a bit tight or it might need to stick up into the turtle
deck. The AV 534 is basically a kit form of the antennae you find in DIY
publications and you can cut the threaded rod as needed for clearance. Since
there's no air load, you can just make a small aluminum "stand" for any of them
on your inspection cover so all the cabling is internal.
>
>Dave
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368961#368961
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Couple things to keep in mind....antenna for handheld |
Jim, you are such a radio nerd. [Laughing]
dah dah... di dah... di dah dit... dah di dah
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368968#368968
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
I believe you can bend the antenna somewhat without any losses correct?
Anyone know? John
On Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 10:09 AM, Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> You should be aware of a concept called Faraday's Cage. My Cub has a
> tubular steel fuselage. My first radio had a little rubber duckie on it,
> but the signal was 'caged' (attenuated / weakened) by the fuselage. My
> transmitting power was so weak they could barely hear me 3 miles away. Not
> good when entering somebody's airport traffic area. I mounted an external
> antenna (and tuned it to 121.5) with a few feet of coax running to the BNC
> connector where the rubber duckie normally lived. Problem solved.
>
> While a wood and fabric fuselage won't cage as much as steel, it will cage
> some. I don't know the numbers, but I'm guessing it's negligible. The
> higher the frequencies, the worse the problem, so the relatively lower
> aviation band is pretty safe (my satellite tv receiver (in the gHz range)
> gets screwed up just having to look through wet leaves sometimes). What you
> might want to be aware of if you mount it under the turtle deck is that all
> that metal stuff up front is going to attenuate your signal forward. You
> probably won't care, but just be aware of it.
>
> I mentioned tuning. Every antenna has a favorite frequency at which it
> performs (resonates). That frequency is a function of its length. Lots of
> folks just buy an antenna, strap it on, and go flying. When you transmit at
> a frequency other than its ideal, an antenna won't work as efficiently, and
> difference in power from the transmitter turns to heat. If you can find a
> friend with an SWR (standing wave ratio) meter, you can hook it up between
> your radio and your antenna. I bought a cheapie for around 30 bucks maybe
> 20 years ago when the Cub's radio was giving me fits.
>
> The basic drill is to transmit, note your efficiency on the meter, nip a
> little off the end of the antenna with some wire cutters, and try again. As
> in everything else in life, there are compromises because you have to
> operate on more than one frequency. I figured 121.5 would be the most
> important frequency in the band to me, so that's what I tuned mine for. The
> higher the frequency, the shorter the antenna. In actuality, I started with
> a slighty lower frequency, then started nipping off antenna until it peaked
> out and started getting worse again, then stepped up to the 121.5. You
> can't easily add length to an antenna without creating other messes, so
> you've gotta creep up on it.
>
> Jim Ash
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: dgaldrich <dgaldrich@embarqmail.com>
> >Sent: Mar 20, 2012 10:28 AM
> >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: antenna for handheld
> >
> dgaldrich@embarqmail.com>
> >
> >Hi Douwe
> >
> >Just took a quick look at the ACS listings and it looks like most of them
> have about a 20 inch mounting height requirement (a function of the
> polarization of the signals) so It my be a bit tight or it might need to
> stick up into the turtle deck. The AV 534 is basically a kit form of the
> antennae you find in DIY publications and you can cut the threaded rod as
> needed for clearance. Since there's no air load, you can just make a small
> aluminum "stand" for any of them on your inspection cover so all the
> cabling is internal.
> >
> >Dave
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Read this topic online here:
> >
> >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368961#368961
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
John Kuhfahl, Lt Col USAF (Ret),
President, KUHLCOUPER LLC
Message 16
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| Subject: | antenna for handheld |
Douwe
Some ideas from the Flybaby website.
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/stories/antenna.htm#follow
maybe some more information in here too
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/velcro.html
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douwe
Blumberg
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 6:48 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: antenna for handheld
Hey all,
I think I'd like to put a little permanent antenna inside the fuse that I
could hook my handheld to.
Don't want to get into another long drawn out project, so. which commonly
available antenna (ACS) would work with a standard handheld?? I think
adapting the handheld antenna to plug into a coax cable is easy, and I
already have ground plane because I have an aluminum inspection panel under
the fuse.
I'm a moron when it comes to electronics so keep it simple please.
Thanks
Douwe
Message 17
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I've volunteered at SNF for more years than I can remember, as have a few others
here. If you've been around it long enough, you've seen how it operates and
how it has changed. There's a strange dichomtomy at work, which I can't claim
to understand. On one hand, there are loads of volunteers (thousands?) and there's
a ton of comeraderie between them and their common interests. On the other
hand is SNF, the money-making, elitist corporate structure that manages the
place and the event (I had a rough night at work last night and am not as rested
as I should be this morning, so I'm a little crankier than normal). I continue
to think it's pretty ballsy to operate SNF as a 501(c)3, expecially when I
get to witness some of the decision-making. I live in a corporate environment,
so for my sanity, I try to distance myself from those folks and that stuff while
at the show.
While I can appreciate the problems in hosting an event of this magnitude, it was
my opinion that the show should have stayed closed the day after the storm
to allow time for a less-hasty cleanup. Gobs of workers went all through the night
to clean things up in time for opening the next morning. I was dazzled at
the amount of work acomplished throughout the night, so kudos to those people.
The critical stuff was done, but lots of the cosmetic remained at that point.
The wrecked airplanes were rather unceremoniously dumped, each in its own pile,
out on a section of ramp which was marked off with police tape. These weren't
just investments, they were the hearts and souls of lots of people who put
their aviation interests before their wallets. It was clearly obvious from the
looks of the piles that the owners had no input and maybe even no knowledge
of how their planes were handled.
Fortunately, there was plenty of warning the storm was coming, and nobody got hurt
( I still can't fathom the thought processes of the folks who sought shelter
in tents (Airparts' tent, in particular; look at youtube ), so some of it was
dumb luck. We were in a block building. More kudos to everybody for that. But
I question if the mistakes made during the cleanup will have been a learning
experience in the long-term. time will tell.
In the mean time, we come back. I pay dearly for it; a week of vacation time I
could really use someplace else, a commercial airfare, sometimes a rental car,
expenses for the week, and sometimes a loss of a few husband points (but not
normally, to be fair). Because we've got a good crew, and there are lots of nice
people. Our little group raises five kinds of hell during the show, and I don't
think I laugh so much during any other given week as that one. ... and in
between, we also help a few people sort out some metal stuff.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Dortch, Steven D MAJ NG NG NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil>
>Sent: Mar 20, 2012 10:38 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sun N Fun
>
>
>Douwe, what about the guys who "voluntarily" paid the bill that was presented?
>
>The leadership lapse first happened when SNF rushed to move the damaged planes
without the owners assistance and damaged those planes. OK they decided that
they would handle it for their own reasons. Doesn't that make them responsible
for any additional damage? Can't the owners get money from SNF for the additional
damage caused by the forklift? Then SNF decided to try billing them, But
there was a backlash. OOPs Now I will do the right thing.
>
>Don't get me wrong. I hope that SNF learns from this and is able to move forward.
Unfortunately, the huge fly-in and airshow at Hondo has closed down due
to the financial liability incurred by the Board every time they held it.
>
>I would like to attend SNF someday, but not if they repeat this type of decision
making.
>
>Blue Skies,
>Steve D
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
>Date: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 8:41
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sun N Fun
>To: pietenpolgroup <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
>
>
>> That is GREAT news about the Sun N Fun decision. Even though it
>> sometimestakes leadership a while to do the right thing, they
>> eventually did the
>> right thing. So, kudos to them!
>>
>>
>>
>> Douwe
>>
>>
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
Yeah. Some, as long as it doesn't change the metallurgy. If you work harden it
(picture a coat hanger right before it breaks), the electrons zooming across things
will change speed at differences in material, creating an impedance block
and changing the resonance of the system.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: John Kuhfahl
Sent: Mar 20, 2012 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: antenna for handheld
I believe you can bend the antenna somewhat without any losses correct? Anyone
know? John
On Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 10:09 AM, Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net> wrote:
You should be aware of a concept called Faraday's Cage. My Cub has a tubular steel
fuselage. My first radio had a little rubber duckie on it, but the signal
was 'caged' (attenuated / weakened) by the fuselage. My transmitting power was
so weak they could barely hear me 3 miles away. Not good when entering somebody's
airport traffic area. I mounted an external antenna (and tuned it to 121.5)
with a few feet of coax running to the BNC connector where the rubber duckie
normally lived. Problem solved.
While a wood and fabric fuselage won't cage as much as steel, it will cage some.
I don't know the numbers, but I'm guessing it's negligible. The higher the frequencies,
the worse the problem, so the relatively lower aviation band is pretty
safe (my satellite tv receiver (in the gHz range) gets screwed up just having
to look through wet leaves sometimes). What you might want to be aware of
if you mount it under the turtle deck is that all that metal stuff up front is
going to attenuate your signal forward. You probably won't care, but just be
aware of it.
I mentioned tuning. Every antenna has a favorite frequency at which it performs
(resonates). That frequency is a function of its length. Lots of folks just buy
an antenna, strap it on, and go flying. When you transmit at a frequency other
than its ideal, an antenna won't work as efficiently, and difference in power
from the transmitter turns to heat. If you can find a friend with an SWR (standing
wave ratio) meter, you can hook it up between your radio and your antenna.
I bought a cheapie for around 30 bucks maybe 20 years ago when the Cub's
radio was giving me fits.
The basic drill is to transmit, note your efficiency on the meter, nip a little
off the end of the antenna with some wire cutters, and try again. As in everything
else in life, there are compromises because you have to operate on more
than one frequency. I figured 121.5 would be the most important frequency in the
band to me, so that's what I tuned mine for. The higher the frequency, the
shorter the antenna. In actuality, I started with a slighty lower frequency, then
started nipping off antenna until it peaked out and started getting worse
again, then stepped up to the 121.5. You can't easily add length to an antenna
without creating other messes, so you've gotta creep up on it.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: dgaldrich <dgaldrich@embarqmail.com>
>Sent: Mar 20, 2012 10:28 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: antenna for handheld
>
>
>Hi Douwe
>
>Just took a quick look at the ACS listings and it looks like most of them have
about a 20 inch mounting height requirement (a function of the polarization of
the signals) so It my be a bit tight or it might need to stick up into the turtle
deck. The AV 534 is basically a kit form of the antennae you find in DIY
publications and you can cut the threaded rod as needed for clearance. Since
there's no air load, you can just make a small aluminum "stand" for any of them
on your inspection cover so all the cabling is internal.
>
>Dave
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368961#368961
>
>
==========
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
--
John Kuhfahl, Lt Col USAF (Ret),
President, KUHLCOUPER LLC
Message 19
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Douwe. How do you pronounce your first name???????
Do not archive
Dave Nielsen
sentuchows@aol.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
Sent: Tue, Mar 20, 2012 9:35 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sun N Fun
That is GREAT news about the Sun N Fun decision. Even though it sometimes
takes leadership a while to do the right thing, they eventually did the rig
ht thing. So, kudos to them!
Douwe
Do not archive
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
An SWR meter is a handy tool indeed, but if one of your friends has an antenna
analyzer, it certainly makes life a lot easier.
With an SWR meter you will need to connect it between your transceiver and your
antenna (i.e. two lengths of feed line), also, you'll have to transmit using
your radio in order to make the meter give an indication, which isn't the best
thing to do as it can be hard on your radio if you have a bad match or worse,
a short. Not only that, but most of the SWR meters that are laying around are
designed to operate in the 3-30MHz range... CB type stuff. Just something to
be aware of as the wrong peice of equipment will just cause you fits.
If you have access to an antenna analyzer, use it. They are much more effective
in troubleshooting feed lines and antennas that an SWR meter. Chances are good
that a local ham radio club has one as they aren't very expensive. This piece
of equipment will allow you to test your feed line and antenna separately
AND as a complete system, which can really help in troubleshooting and tuning.
You will not need extra lengths of feed line as this piece of equipment connects
in place of your transceiver. Not only that, but you can easily sweep the
band (108-137MHz) in order to determine the bandwidth of your antenna... believe
it or not, an antenna that works reasonably well on one frequency may be
a very poor resonator just a few kilohertz away. If you are using a NAV/COM
type radio, bandwidth is more important as you would like to utilize the lower
frequencies (108-117.975MHz) as well as the voice segment (118-137MHz). Ideally
you would shoot for tuning your antenna in the middle of the band (117.5MHz)
and hope to have a reasonable SWR at the edge of the band (108MHZ and 137MHz).
One thing that may help is using a larger diameter rod for you antenna...
theoretically speaking, a larger driven element has a broader bandwidth that
a smaller diameter (i.e. a 1/8" rod would make a better resonater than a 1/16"
rod).
Anyhow, hope some of this helps.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368981#368981
Message 21
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Dave,
Douwe pronounces his first name .... correctly. :)
BC
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368983#368983
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Inst. Panel design |
I chose to create burnished stainless for the panel with wood veneer as the inlay
- to be different and also so that there might be less glare/reflection on
a sunny day from the center area of the panel...
--------
Jake Schultz - curator,
Newport Way Air Museum (OK, it's just my home)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368984#368984
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/instrument_panel_clean_1_898.jpg
Message 23
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Thank you Bill. I deserve that, kinda.
Dave Nielsen
sentuchows@aol.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Church <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Tue, Mar 20, 2012 12:39 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Sun N Fun
>
Dave,
Douwe pronounces his first name .... correctly. :)
BC
DO NOT ARCHIVE
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368983#368983
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
Regarding all the technical posts lately. We are lucky to have such a wide variety
of expertise participating here. I thank you all for your contributions!
Jack Textor
Sent from my iPad
Do not archive
On Mar 20, 2012, at 11:24 AM, "K5YAC" <hangar10@cox.net> wrote:
>
> An SWR meter is a handy tool indeed, but if one of your friends has an antenna
analyzer, it certainly makes life a lot easier.
>
> With an SWR meter you will need to connect it between your transceiver and your
antenna (i.e. two lengths of feed line), also, you'll have to transmit using
your radio in order to make the meter give an indication, which isn't the best
thing to do as it can be hard on your radio if you have a bad match or worse,
a short. Not only that, but most of the SWR meters that are laying around
are designed to operate in the 3-30MHz range... CB type stuff. Just something
to be aware of as the wrong peice of equipment will just cause you fits.
>
> If you have access to an antenna analyzer, use it. They are much more effective
in troubleshooting feed lines and antennas that an SWR meter. Chances are
good that a local ham radio club has one as they aren't very expensive. This
piece of equipment will allow you to test your feed line and antenna separately
AND as a complete system, which can really help in troubleshooting and tuning.
You will not need extra lengths of feed line as this piece of equipment connects
in place of your transceiver. Not only that, but you can easily sweep
the band (108-137MHz) in order to determine the bandwidth of your antenna...
believe it or not, an antenna that works reasonably well on one frequency may
be a very poor resonator just a few kilohertz away. If you are using a NAV/COM
type radio, bandwidth is more important as you would like to utilize the lower
frequencies (108-117.975MHz) as well as the voice segment (118-137MHz). Ideally
you would shoot for tuning your antenna in the m!
> iddle of the band (117.5MHz) and hope to have a reasonable SWR at the edge of
the band (108MHZ and 137MHz). One thing that may help is using a larger diameter
rod for you antenna... theoretically speaking, a larger driven element has
a broader bandwidth that a smaller diameter (i.e. a 1/8" rod would make a better
resonater than a 1/16" rod).
>
> Anyhow, hope some of this helps.
>
>
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368981#368981
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
Mark,
Looks like you're bring yours to Brodhead to run an antenna evaluation
service for all the Piets. You and Markle the Radio Heads
John
Do not archive just appreciate the help!
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
Hey, good idea John! I'd be glad to bring it along if anyone would like to use
it. It really just takes a second to plug in and run a simple analysis.
Maybe we can have a workshop... how to vacuum bag your antenna!
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368994#368994
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
Sounds like seminar topic and demo to me
John
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 20, 2012, at 2:33 PM, "K5YAC" <hangar10@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Hey, good idea John! I'd be glad to bring it along if anyone would like to use
it. It really just takes a second to plug in and run a simple analysis.
>
> Maybe we can have a workshop... how to vacuum bag your antenna!
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368994#368994
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
Douwe,
I used this antenna from ACS for mine. I have not flown it yet but I talked with
my brother 8 miles away. He was at 600 feet and my Piet was in the hangar with
the big door open.................just my 2 cents
do not archive
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
now covering and painting
21" wheels
Lycoming O-235 C2C
Jay Anderson CloudCars prop 76 X 44
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=368999#368999
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a9_927.jpg
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
I've used those aerials on two Aircraft and they were or are a great success.
You still need some form of ground plane. On a 3 Axis Microlight I used to own
I just made a small bracket and bolted that to the main aluminium tube.
Great value and work well.
Regards
Gerry
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
Yes Gerry I used an 8 X 12 piece of aluminum for a ground plane mounted underneath
the hat box and the antenna is bent 45 with the tip pointing down and forward.
do not archive
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
now covering and painting
21" wheels
Lycoming O-235 C2C
Jay Anderson CloudCars prop 76 X 44
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=369006#369006
Message 31
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Why do you want to remove them? They generally get loose and can be pulled
out from the bottom (don't try to drive them out - that will just mushroom
the head, making it more difficult to remove), but I can't imagine why you
would want to remove one.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
(Where a big thunderstorm is sitting on top of us, preventing me from flying
my Pietenpol)
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Perez
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 10:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
Is there a good method used for removing the push rod tubes on an A-65? I
want a tube removed, but it seems anything I would try would just mushroom
out the end...making it more difficult to remove from the head. I thought
about trying to hammer in, or bend in, the top of the tube some to release
it. I believe there is a bead a little further down which is still
retaining it.
Replacing the tube and re-beading the end is a non-event.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
Message 32
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I'm not up on the A-65, but if it's like the Corvair in this respect, people either
buy or hand-make a tool to get behind the head and tap them out. Picture
a piece of scrap tubing that fits closely around the narrow part of the tube,
but butts up against the flared part of the valve tube that's in the head. Fit
a piece of scrap to that piece that angles undeneath the block, at as shallow
an angle as you can muster, and braze it on. Tap gently on the end of the bazed-on
piece in the direction of exit with a light hammer.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Phillips
Sent: Mar 20, 2012 5:34 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
Why do you want to remove them? They generally get loose and can be pulled out
from the bottom (dont try to drive them out that will just mushroom the head,
making it more difficult to remove), but I cant imagine why you would want to
remove one.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
(Where a big thunderstorm is sitting on top of us, preventing me from flying my
Pietenpol)
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Perez
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 10:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
Is there a good method used for removing the push rod tubes on an A-65? I want
a tube removed, but it seems anything I would try would just mushroom out the
end...making it more difficult to remove from the head. I thought about trying
to hammer in, or bend in, the top of the tube some to release it. I believe
there is a bead a little further down which is still retaining it.
Replacing the tube and re-beading the end is a non-event.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com <span style=" -<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black; Subscription,<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black; more:http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="================<span style=; bsp: " font-size:10.0pt;color:black; Forums!http://forums.matronics.com<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="================<span style=; bsp: " font-size:10.0pt;color:black; support!http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 33
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http://www.dalemfg.com/dale_023.htm
look at tool #T-4 ; same idea.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Mar 20, 2012 6:20 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
>
>
>I'm not up on the A-65, but if it's like the Corvair in this respect, people either
buy or hand-make a tool to get behind the head and tap them out. Picture
a piece of scrap tubing that fits closely around the narrow part of the tube,
but butts up against the flared part of the valve tube that's in the head. Fit
a piece of scrap to that piece that angles undeneath the block, at as shallow
an angle as you can muster, and braze it on. Tap gently on the end of the bazed-on
piece in the direction of exit with a light hammer.
>
>Jim Ash
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jack Phillips
>Sent: Mar 20, 2012 5:34 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
>
>
>Why do you want to remove them? They generally get loose and can be pulled out
from the bottom (dont try to drive them out that will just mushroom the head,
making it more difficult to remove), but I cant imagine why you would want
to remove one.
>
>Jack Phillips
>NX899JP
>Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
>(Where a big thunderstorm is sitting on top of us, preventing me from flying my
Pietenpol)
>
>
>
>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Perez
>Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 10:25 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
>
>
>
>Is there a good method used for removing the push rod tubes on an A-65? I want
a tube removed, but it seems anything I would try would just mushroom out the
end...making it more difficult to remove from the head. I thought about trying
to hammer in, or bend in, the top of the tube some to release it. I believe
there is a bead a little further down which is still retaining it.
>
>Replacing the tube and re-beading the end is a non-event.
>
>Michael Perez
>Karetaker Aero
>www.karetakeraero.com <span style=" -<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black; Subscription,<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black; more:http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="================<span style=; bsp: " font-size:10.0pt;color:black; Forums!http://forums.matronics.com<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="================<span style=; bsp: " font-size:10.0pt;color:black; support!http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear V question |
Yes and Yes. I rebuilt a Piper PA22 and made it into a PA20 (taildragger).
The landing gear was done that way -- a member joining the two legs at the
top of the V and then it was covered with fabric, just like one of the tail
members. Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Franklin" <jbfjr@peoplepc.com>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 9:07 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Landing Gear V question
>
> If you want to fill in the landing gear V's (like a Cub) how do you do it?
> Is it just fabric and do you have to have a tube at the top of the V?
>
> John Franklin
> GN-1 / Corvair
> Prairie Aire 4TA0
> Needville, TX
>
> ________________________________________
>
>
>
Message 35
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I can't quite picture what you mean Jim, but I appreciate your help. Any chance
you can send me a sketch?
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
--- On Tue, 3/20/12, Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net> wrote:
From: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
I'm not up on the A-65, but if it's like the Corvair in this respect, people either
buy or hand-make a tool to get behind the head and tap them out. Picture
a piece of scrap tubing that fits closely around the narrow part of the tube,
but butts up against the flared part of the valve tube that's in the head. Fit
a piece of scrap to that piece that angles undeneath the block, at as shallow
an angle as you can muster, and braze it on. Tap gently on the end of the bazed-on
piece in the direction of exit with a light hammer.
Jim Ash
Message 36
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Thanks again Jim...I got the link with the picture.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
--- On Tue, 3/20/12, Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net> wrote:
From: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
http://www.dalemfg.com/dale_023.htm
look at tool #T-4 ; same idea.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Mar 20, 2012 6:20 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
>
>
>I'm not up on the A-65, but if it's like the Corvair in this respect, peop
le either buy or hand-make a tool to get behind the head and tap them out.
Picture a piece of scrap tubing that fits closely around the narrow part of
the tube, but butts up against the flared part of the valve tube that's in
the head. Fit a piece of scrap to that piece that angles undeneath the blo
ck, at as shallow an angle as you can muster, and braze it on. Tap gently o
n the end of the bazed-on piece in the direction of exit with a light hamme
r.
>
>Jim Ash
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jack Phillips
>Sent: Mar 20, 2012 5:34 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
>
>
>Why do you want to remove them?=C2- They generally get loose and can be
pulled out from the bottom (don=99t try to drive them out =93 t
hat will just mushroom the head, making it more difficult to remove), but I
can=99t imagine why you would want to remove one.
>
>Jack Phillips
>NX899JP
>Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
>(Where a big thunderstorm is sitting on top of us, preventing me from flyi
ng my Pietenpol)
>
>
>
>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-li
st-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Perez
>Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 10:25 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
>
>
>
>Is there a good method used for removing the push rod tubes on an A-65? I
want a tube removed, but it seems anything I would try would just mushroom
out the end...making it more difficult to remove from the head. I thought a
bout trying to hammer in, or bend in, the top of the tube some to release i
t.=C2- I believe there is a bead a little further down which is still ret
aining it.
>
>Replacing the tube and re-beading the end is a non-event.
>
>Michael Perez
>Karetaker Aero
>www.karetakeraero.com=C2- <span style=" -<span style=" font-size:10.
0pt;color:black; Subscription,<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;
more:http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List<span style=" font
-size:10.0pt;color:black;="===============
=<span style=; bsp: " font-size:10.0pt;color:black; Forums!http://forum
s.matronics.com<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="===
=============<span style=; bsp: " font-size:10.
0pt;color:black; support!http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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>
t
S WEB FORUMS -
on Web Site -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
Message 37
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One subtley which might not be obvious; the tube part of the tool has a chunk taken
out of it. That's so the exhaust tube on the Corvair won't interfere with
the removal operation. Again, I don't know if the concept applies to an A-65.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Perez
Sent: Mar 20, 2012 6:32 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
Thanks again Jim...I got the link with the picture.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
--- On Tue, 3/20/12, Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net> wrote:
From: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
http://www.dalemfg.com/dale_023.htm
look at tool #T-4 ; same idea.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Mar 20, 2012 6:20 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
>
>
>I'm not up on the A-65, but if it's like the Corvair in this respect, people either
buy or hand-make a tool to get behind the head and tap them out. Picture
a piece of scrap tubing that fits closely around the narrow part of the tube,
but butts up against the flared part of the valve tube that's in the head. Fit
a piece of scrap to that piece that angles undeneath the block, at as shallow
an angle as you can muster, and braze it on. Tap gently on the end of the bazed-on
piece in the direction of exit with a light hammer.
>
>Jim Ash
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jack Phillips
>Sent: Mar 20, 2012 5:34 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
>
>
>Why do you want to remove them? They generally get loose and can be pulled out
from the bottom (dont try to drive them out that will just mushroom the head,
making it more difficult to remove), but I cant imagine why you would want
to remove one.
>
>Jack Phillips
>NX899JP
>Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
>(Where a big thunderstorm is sitting on top of us, preventing me from flying my
Pietenpol)
>
>
>
>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Perez
>Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 10:25 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Push Rod Tubes
>
>
>
>Is there a good method used for removing the push rod tubes on an A-65? I want
a tube removed, but it seems anything I would try would just mushroom out the
end...making it more difficult to remove from the head. I thought about trying
to hammer in, or bend in, the top of the tube some to release it. I believe
there is a bead a little further down which is still retaining it.
>
>Replacing the tube and re-beading the end is a non-event.
>
>Michael Perez
>Karetaker Aero
>www.karetakeraero.com <span style=" -<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black; Subscription,<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black; more:http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="================<span style=; bsp: " font-size:10.0pt;color:black; Forums!http://forums.matronics.com<span style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="================<span style=; bsp: " font-size:10.0pt;color:black; support!http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
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Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Inst. Panel design |
Here's mine. The CB's on the right will be mounted
there, someday, soon. In the upper left the two
switches on top of the cowl are the mag switches.
Second one shows my Terra radio installation.
----- Original Message -----
From: bradandlinda tds.net
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Inst. Panel design
Brian, Google up NX29NX, and one of the sites it has a picture of the
beautiful panel Rob Bach made on my Piet.
On Mon, Mar 19, 2012 at 10:39 AM, <brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com> wrote:
Group,
I have the basic set up for my panel in mind but would like to
request
from the group pictures of your panels. I have combed over
WestCoast-Piet and other sites for other ideas also. I thought it
might
be an interesting thread to see what people have done with
instrument
placement, type of ply, or veneer wood or metal finish. I think I am
leaning towards a burl veneer panel. Look forward to any panel pics.
Thanks.
Brian
SLC-UT
==========
st"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
03/18/12
Message 39
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Can someone please provide me with Mike Cuy's email?
Gary Boothe
NX308MB
Do not archive
Message 40
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Never mind.
Gary Boothe
NX308MB
Do not archive
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Boothe
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 7:26 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Mike Cuy
Can someone please provide me with Mike Cuy's email?
Gary Boothe
NX308MB
Do not archive
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: antenna for handheld |
They're not going to join up with Max Headroom are they?
In a theater near you. Coming soon!
Max Headroom and the Radio Heads
Clif
Life is not a matter of holding good cards,
but rather, of playing a bad hand well!"
Robert Louis Stevenson
Do not archive
Mark,
Looks like you're bring yours to Brodhead to run an antenna evaluation
service for all the Piets. You and Markle the Radio Heads
John
Message 42
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Don and Chris...thanks for the additional information on flattening lift
struts.
Do not archive
Rick Schreiber
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: St. Patty's @ Jim Boyer's |
Nice to see such a healthy and enthusiastic bunch of Piet folks close to me.
Hi Oscar;
When you do get your PIet on its way to Oregon you hopefully will be able to stop
somewhere close here in N. California. It would be a good time to have another
Piet get together.
Looking forward to meeting you.
Jim B.
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