Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:52 AM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (Kringle)
2. 04:13 AM - Re: another step forward (helspersew@aol.com)
3. 04:38 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Jack Phillips)
4. 04:56 AM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (Kringle)
5. 05:05 AM - Re: 8-32 Machine Screws (Ben Charvet)
6. 05:26 AM - Re: Need some help....off topic... (Ben Charvet)
7. 06:52 AM - Cost of inspections (gliderx5@comcast.net)
8. 06:52 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Gary Boothe)
9. 07:39 AM - Re: Cost of inspections (Jack Phillips)
10. 08:27 AM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (Kringle)
11. 08:44 AM - Re: Cost of inspections (Ben Charvet)
12. 09:10 AM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (Kringle)
13. 10:35 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Gary Boothe)
14. 10:40 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Gary Boothe)
15. 11:36 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Jack Phillips)
16. 11:39 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Jack Phillips)
17. 12:00 PM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Chris)
18. 12:02 PM - Re: 8-32 Machine Screws (Chris)
19. 02:53 PM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (Kringle)
20. 03:11 PM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Gary Boothe)
21. 06:28 PM - Traveling to DFW area (Ken Bickers)
22. 09:18 PM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (dwilson)
23. 09:26 PM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (dwilson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
I was searching for comments on the construction of wing tip bows and found this
thread. This week my local EAA chapter is meeting at my place to look at my
project and help me trammel my right wing. I have not made my wing tip bows
yet so I temporarily slid in a compression strut at the tip. This should surfice,
agreed?
I couldn't find a good thread on the construction of the tips so if anyone can
point me in a good direction, I would appreciate it.
John
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370831#370831
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| Subject: | Re: another step forward |
Wow Bob, a stunning example. I must say that the fabric-covered cockpit cow
ling is very nice looking and different than I have seen. It must be plywoo
d? Very smooth and contiguous. Looking forward to seeing another great Piet
at Brodhead this year. I think our numbers are really going to explode in
the next few years.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
John,
You need to go ahead and make the wing tips, since they provide the
compression strut at the tip. You can't trammel a wing with a temporary
strut and then remove the temporary and replace it with a permanent strut.
For one thing, I doubt you could remove the temporary strut once you have
the drag and anti-drag wires tensioned properly.
Trammeling a wing is not difficult, but it helps to have two people to do
it. It also helps to have a couple of Trammel Points mounted on a long
light stick (a piece of spruce will do) as a trammel bar. You can do it
with a tape measure, but not as accurately as with trammel points (you can
buy them at ACS).
The procedure is to get the wing laying flat on sawhorses, take the fixed
trammel point and punch it into the top of the spar at the intersection of
the spar centerline and the drag wire or anti-drag wire fitting. Then swing
the trammel bar over so that it is pointing toward the intersection on the
other spar where the wires attach and punch the trammel point into the top
of that spar over the spar centerline, and the intersection point of the
wires.
Now lift the trammel bar and reverse it. In other words, if you started at
the wingtip with the first trammel point in the front spar and the second
point in the rear spar at the middle where the wires attach, you would move
the first point to the rear spar at the tip and the second point to the
front spar at the wire attach point. If the wing is square and true (not
likely at this point) the second point will be exactly on the spar
centerline over the intersection point of the bracing wires. If not, you
need to start adjusting turnbuckles until it does line up. Then put the
trammel bar n the original position and see if it will line up. Keep making
adjustments like that until that bay is true and square. Then do the other
bay in the same manner. Once each bay is trammeled, you should be able to
pick up the trammel bar and set in place in either the drag or anti-drag
position and the points should just drop into place on the spar centerline
directly above the intersection point of the wires.
By the time you have the entire wing square and true, your wires should be
reasonably tight, but if not yu can tighten them until they generate a nice
"Thummm" when plucked. Just remember that to keep the wing true, you will
need to tighten them equally (if you turn the drag wire turnbuckle one-half
turn, you need to turn the anti-drag wire turnbuckle the same amount, in the
same direction). Once you have the wing trammeled and true, with the wires
tight you should go ahead and safetywire the turnbuckles so they won't move.
You should never have to trammel it again unless something breaks or shifts.
This is why you can't do it with a temporary compression strut.
If this is not clear, let me know and I'll try to draw some pictures to
explain the process. Does your EAA Chapter have a Technical Counselor? If
so, he should be able to explain and demonstrate the process for you, and he
probably has a set of trammel points to use.
Good Luck!
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 6:50 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows
I was searching for comments on the construction of wing tip bows and found
this thread. This week my local EAA chapter is meeting at my place to look
at my project and help me trammel my right wing. I have not made my wing
tip bows yet so I temporarily slid in a compression strut at the tip. This
should surfice, agreed?
I couldn't find a good thread on the construction of the tips so if anyone
can point me in a good direction, I would appreciate it.
John
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
Jack, thanks for the response. My technical advisor is helping me set this up.
He is going to show the group the proper way to trammel a wing and told me if
the wing is not ready it is no big deal as he will just talk his way through
it. Since I don't have my leading and trailing edge finished I'm not sure I
can complete the wing tips yet?
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370836#370836
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 8-32 Machine Screws |
I used stainless hardware store screws on mine. I figured they were
just to hold it in place while the glue dried. I also used stainless
self-locking nuts and washers.
Ben Charvet
On 4/14/2012 3:29 PM, Kringle wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Kringle"<Mrkringles@msn.com>
>
> Can I use standard hardware screws to attach the leading edge or is this screw
required to be aircraft grade? If so I can't find them in the ACS catalog.
>
> --------
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370787#370787
>
>
--
Ben Charvet, PharmD
Staff Pharmacist
Parrish Medical center
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Need some help....off topic... |
Sounds like a great opportunity. Do you have someone in the area that
could do an annual on it for you? He could give the best advice after
giving it a once-over. Here in Florida just sitting takes a heavy toll
on engines due to corrosion. You need an annual anyway, so I'd try that.
Ben
On 4/14/2012 7:13 PM, Jim Markle wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Markle<jim_markle@mindspring.com>
>
> A pilot friend passed on about a year (or two) ago and his Champ has just been
sitting...his daughter owns it now....it's on a grass strip about a mile from
us.
>
> I've recommended to her that we at least pull it out of the hangar and start
it from time to time. And she's fine with me taking it up if I want. (Of course
I'm fine with that!). Mainly I hate to see it waste away...and it will if
we don't do something.
>
> So do we just start propping to get it started or is there some process we need
to follow for an aircraft that's been sitting for so long?
>
> Sorry for such an "off topic" request but....well....maybe this could lead to
me getting some tailwheel time (yes, I know, ONLY after getting some tailwheel
training...) but that might make me a better Piet pilot, right? :-)
>
> If someone has experience with such and could tell me what to watch for and give
some pointers it would be appreciated.
>
> Offlist please.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim in Pryor (where the storms might pass us by this time....)
>
>
--
Ben Charvet, PharmD
Staff Pharmacist
Parrish Medical center
Message 7
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| Subject: | Cost of inspections |
I've been wondering about the cost of annual inspections (or conditions inspections)
for experimentals like a Piet vs. simple type certificated airplanes like
a cub or colt. In looking over the FARs it seems like the A&P would have to
do all of the same things, which then would cost the same. So, without a repairman
certificate it looks like there might not be the savings that I anticipated
in owning an EAB. Any thoughts or experience?
Malcolm Morrison
http://home.comcast.net/~mmorrison123/Airplanes.htm
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
John,
Jack is certainly right, that you would probably not be able to remove
the
temporary compression struts after the wing is trammeled, but, since
this is
a learning exorcise, and you still have another wing to do, you could
always
loosen the cables and re-trammel the wing later. It=92s really a fun and
easy
process, and you will have the benefit of having it demonstrated for
you.
As to the construction of the tip bows=85I built mine right on top of
the rib
template by establishing several =BD way points along the rib, install 3
or 4=94
screws, and clamp the laminating strips to those screws. If it takes you
more than an hour per tip you=92re doggin=92 it!!
Gary from Cool
NX308MB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack
Phillips
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 4:38 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows
--> < <mailto:pietflyr@bellsouth.net> pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
John,
You need to go ahead and make the wing tips, since they provide the
compression strut at the tip. You can't trammel a wing with a temporary
strut and then remove the temporary and replace it with a permanent
strut.
For one thing, I doubt you could remove the temporary strut once you
have
the drag and anti-drag wires tensioned properly.
Trammeling a wing is not difficult, but it helps to have two people to
do
it. It also helps to have a couple of Trammel Points mounted on a long
light stick (a piece of spruce will do) as a trammel bar. You can do it
with a tape measure, but not as accurately as with trammel points (you
can
buy them at ACS).
The procedure is to get the wing laying flat on sawhorses, take the
fixed
trammel point and punch it into the top of the spar at the intersection
of
the spar centerline and the drag wire or anti-drag wire fitting. Then
swing
the trammel bar over so that it is pointing toward the intersection on
the
other spar where the wires attach and punch the trammel point into the
top
of that spar over the spar centerline, and the intersection point of the
wires.
Now lift the trammel bar and reverse it. In other words, if you started
at
the wingtip with the first trammel point in the front spar and the
second
point in the rear spar at the middle where the wires attach, you would
move
the first point to the rear spar at the tip and the second point to the
front spar at the wire attach point. If the wing is square and true
(not
likely at this point) the second point will be exactly on the spar
centerline over the intersection point of the bracing wires. If not,
you
need to start adjusting turnbuckles until it does line up. Then put the
trammel bar n the original position and see if it will line up. Keep
making
adjustments like that until that bay is true and square. Then do the
other
bay in the same manner. Once each bay is trammeled, you should be able
to
pick up the trammel bar and set in place in either the drag or anti-drag
position and the points should just drop into place on the spar
centerline
directly above the intersection point of the wires.
By the time you have the entire wing square and true, your wires should
be
reasonably tight, but if not yu can tighten them until they generate a
nice
"Thummm" when plucked. Just remember that to keep the wing true, you
will
need to tighten them equally (if you turn the drag wire turnbuckle
one-half
turn, you need to turn the anti-drag wire turnbuckle the same amount, in
the
same direction). Once you have the wing trammeled and true, with the
wires
tight you should go ahead and safetywire the turnbuckles so they won't
move.
You should never have to trammel it again unless something breaks or
shifts.
This is why you can't do it with a temporary compression strut.
If this is not clear, let me know and I'll try to draw some pictures to
explain the process. Does your EAA Chapter have a Technical Counselor?
If
so, he should be able to explain and demonstrate the process for you,
and he
probably has a set of trammel points to use.
Good Luck!
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: <mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com>
owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]>
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 6:50 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows
<mailto:Mrkringles@msn.com> Mrkringles@msn.com>
I was searching for comments on the construction of wing tip bows and
found
this thread. This week my local EAA chapter is meeting at my place to
look
at my project and help me trammel my right wing. I have not made my
wing
tip bows yet so I temporarily slid in a compression strut at the tip.
This
should surfice, agreed?
I couldn't find a good thread on the construction of the tips so if
anyone
can point me in a good direction, I would appreciate it.
John
List
7-Day
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 9
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| Subject: | Cost of inspections |
Without a repairman's certificate there are still cost savings. You (or
anybody else) can make any repairs or modifications desired on an
Experimental. Not so for a certificated aircraft. Anything more
complicated than an oil change or changing a tire must be done by an A&P on
a certificated plane.
Shop around and be sure you remind them that only an A&P license is required
to inspect a homebuilt. An IA is not required. It should be cheaper,
particularly if they will let you do an "owner assisted" inspection (meaning
you do all the work under their direction and they provide a signature in
the logbook).
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gliderx5@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:51 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cost of inspections
I've been wondering about the cost of annual inspections (or conditions
inspections) for experimentals like a Piet vs. simple type certificated
airplanes like a cub or colt. In looking over the FARs it seems like the
A&P would have to do all of the same things, which then would cost the same.
So, without a repairman certificate it looks like there might not be the
savings that I anticipated in owning an EAB. Any thoughts or experience?
Malcolm Morrison
http://home.comcast.net/~mmorrison123/Airplanes.htm
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
Gary,
My plan shows 4 pieces of 1/4" laminated together. Did you soak and bend the plywood
to shape? Did you then glue them together, clamp, and sand to the finished
piece?
John
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370860#370860
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cost of inspections |
As Jack said, you can do any repairs yourself, even without the
repairman's certificate. Also, you don't need an IA to sign off an
experimental, only an A&P. They aren't required to sign it off as
airworthy, and there are no records that need to be researched for 50
years to assure all AD's have been corrected. The sign off for an
experimental just states that it has been found in safe condition for
flight. When I had my Baby Ace, I was signed off by two different AP's
in my EAA chapter and they always did it for free, with me doing all the
work. Just one example of why you need to join your local EAA chapter.
Ben Charvet
On 4/15/2012 9:51 AM, gliderx5@comcast.net wrote:
> I've been wondering about the cost of annual inspections (or
> conditions inspections) for experimentals like a Piet vs. simple type
> certificated airplanes like a cub or colt. In looking over the FARs
> it seems like the A&P would have to do all of the same things, which
> then would cost the same. So, without a repairman certificate it
> looks like there might not be the savings that I anticipated in owning
> an EAB. Any thoughts or experience?
>
> Malcolm Morrison
> http://home.comcast.net/~mmorrison123/Airplanes.htm
> *
>
>
> *
--
Ben Charvet, PharmD
Staff Pharmacist
Parrish Medical center
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
Here's where I am. I could get the temp compression stud out after mounting the
wing tip with a saw if I had to. Jack, thanks for the info on tammeling. I
assume it is imperative that the points you pick on the front and rear spars must
line up from fore to aft exactly to get everything square.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370866#370866
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
My bows are hickory, and less than 1/4", maybe even 1/8"! They're covered
now, and I don't have any close up pics. Still, I would rip 1/4", then see
how well it makes the bend...should do fine. It would probably be easiest to
glue all together on the flat, then place on to the template and clamp. At
least, that's how I did it. No soaking.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:27 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows
Gary,
My plan shows 4 pieces of 1/4" laminated together. Did you soak and bend
the plywood to shape? Did you then glue them together, clamp, and sand to
the finished piece?
John
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370860#370860
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
Additional thought, John...I think it was Skip Gadd who talked about
trammeling at least 3 times, during each phase of the construct. Seems like
it would be a mistake to trammel the first time after the leading and
trailing edges are on.
Gary from Cool
NX308MB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:10 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows
Here's where I am. I could get the temp compression stud out after mounting
the wing tip with a saw if I had to. Jack, thanks for the info on
tammeling. I assume it is imperative that the points you pick on the front
and rear spars must line up from fore to aft exactly to get everything
square.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370866#370866
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
Correct. What you are doing is making two triangles and ensuring that they
are absolutely identical, as shown:
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 12:10 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows
Here's where I am. I could get the temp compression stud out after mounting
the wing tip with a saw if I had to. Jack, thanks for the info on
tammeling. I assume it is imperative that the points you pick on the front
and rear spars must line up from fore to aft exactly to get everything
square.
--------
John
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
Gary is correct. Trammel it before the LE and TE are attached.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Boothe
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 1:40 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows
Additional thought, John...I think it was Skip Gadd who talked about
trammeling at least 3 times, during each phase of the construct. Seems like
it would be a mistake to trammel the first time after the leading and
trailing edges are on.
Gary from Cool
NX308MB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:10 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows
Here's where I am. I could get the temp compression stud out after mounting
the wing tip with a saw if I had to. Jack, thanks for the info on
tammeling. I assume it is imperative that the points you pick on the front
and rear spars must line up from fore to aft exactly to get everything
square.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370866#370866
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
John
I made my wing tips out of poplar. Looks like I used 7 layers. It doesn't
matter how many you use. I made them thin enough so they did not need
soaking to bend. To form the tip I traced a wing rib on the back of my wing
rib jig. I also marked where the end of the tapered end of the spars are.
I then measured and drew a center line down the traced wing rib. I measured
half inch above and below to draw the outer lines of the wing tip. Make sure
you adjust the line so it coincides with the wing spars. I covered the
board with plastic wrap, then hammered in 10 or 15 nails along the outer
lines. Trial fit the sticks. After I had it all set up, I quickly glued
each stick with T-88, stacked them together, covered them with plastic wrap
and clamped with 1-inch binder clips. After they dried I sanded off the
excess glue and rounded off the outer edges with my router but a plane or
sand paper would work too.
Some pictures
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_5056.JPG
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_5058.JPG
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_6043.JPG
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_6044.JPG
Installed
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_5559.JPG
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_5560.JPG
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:27 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows
Gary,
My plan shows 4 pieces of 1/4" laminated together. Did you soak and bend
the plywood to shape? Did you then glue them together, clamp, and sand to
the finished piece?
John
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370860#370860
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| Subject: | 8-32 Machine Screws |
John,
If you talking about the leading edge of the wing, I have no screws or
bolts. I clamped it on.
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_5045.JPG
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2012 12:30 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 8-32 Machine Screws
Can I use standard hardware screws to attach the leading edge or is this
screw required to be aircraft grade? If so I can't find them in the ACS
catalog.
--------
John
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370787#370787
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
Without the wing tip bow in place we could still trammel the inner bay, correct?
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370896#370896
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
Yes.
Gary Boothe
NX308MB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 2:53 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows
Without the wing tip bow in place we could still trammel the inner bay,
correct?
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370896#370896
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| Subject: | Traveling to DFW area |
If anyone on the list in the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex would welcome
a visit next Saturday afternoon, April 21, I'll be flying into DFW
and will have a rental car and a bit of free time on my hands. I'd be
delighted to spend an hour or two talking Pietenpols or lending a
hand. Let me know off-list. Cheers, Ken
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
During Oshkosh 2004 we covered Mr. Pietenpol's 1966 Aircamper. It is the plane
that is on display in the Pietenpol Hanger. Here is how he constructed the one
piece wing in 1966.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370912#370912
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingtip_compression_strut_214.jpg
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Bows |
Sorry, This should look better than the previous... The compression strut was
3/4 X 3/4.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370913#370913
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http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingtip_compression_strut_209.jpg
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