Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Sun 04/15/12


Total Messages Posted: 23



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:52 AM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (Kringle)
     2. 04:13 AM - Re: another step forward (helspersew@aol.com)
     3. 04:38 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Jack Phillips)
     4. 04:56 AM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (Kringle)
     5. 05:05 AM - Re: 8-32 Machine Screws (Ben Charvet)
     6. 05:26 AM - Re: Need some help....off topic... (Ben Charvet)
     7. 06:52 AM - Cost of inspections (gliderx5@comcast.net)
     8. 06:52 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Gary Boothe)
     9. 07:39 AM - Re: Cost of inspections (Jack Phillips)
    10. 08:27 AM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (Kringle)
    11. 08:44 AM - Re: Cost of inspections (Ben Charvet)
    12. 09:10 AM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (Kringle)
    13. 10:35 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Gary Boothe)
    14. 10:40 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Gary Boothe)
    15. 11:36 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Jack Phillips)
    16. 11:39 AM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Jack Phillips)
    17. 12:00 PM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Chris)
    18. 12:02 PM - Re: 8-32 Machine Screws (Chris)
    19. 02:53 PM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (Kringle)
    20. 03:11 PM - Re: Re: Wing Tip Bows (Gary Boothe)
    21. 06:28 PM - Traveling to DFW area (Ken Bickers)
    22. 09:18 PM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (dwilson)
    23. 09:26 PM - Re: Wing Tip Bows (dwilson)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:52:29 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    From: "Kringle" <Mrkringles@msn.com>
    I was searching for comments on the construction of wing tip bows and found this thread. This week my local EAA chapter is meeting at my place to look at my project and help me trammel my right wing. I have not made my wing tip bows yet so I temporarily slid in a compression strut at the tip. This should surfice, agreed? I couldn't find a good thread on the construction of the tips so if anyone can point me in a good direction, I would appreciate it. John -------- John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370831#370831


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:13:19 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: another step forward
    From: helspersew@aol.com
    Wow Bob, a stunning example. I must say that the fabric-covered cockpit cow ling is very nice looking and different than I have seen. It must be plywoo d? Very smooth and contiguous. Looking forward to seeing another great Piet at Brodhead this year. I think our numbers are really going to explode in the next few years. Dan Helsper Puryear, TN


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:38:57 AM PST US
    From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    John, You need to go ahead and make the wing tips, since they provide the compression strut at the tip. You can't trammel a wing with a temporary strut and then remove the temporary and replace it with a permanent strut. For one thing, I doubt you could remove the temporary strut once you have the drag and anti-drag wires tensioned properly. Trammeling a wing is not difficult, but it helps to have two people to do it. It also helps to have a couple of Trammel Points mounted on a long light stick (a piece of spruce will do) as a trammel bar. You can do it with a tape measure, but not as accurately as with trammel points (you can buy them at ACS). The procedure is to get the wing laying flat on sawhorses, take the fixed trammel point and punch it into the top of the spar at the intersection of the spar centerline and the drag wire or anti-drag wire fitting. Then swing the trammel bar over so that it is pointing toward the intersection on the other spar where the wires attach and punch the trammel point into the top of that spar over the spar centerline, and the intersection point of the wires. Now lift the trammel bar and reverse it. In other words, if you started at the wingtip with the first trammel point in the front spar and the second point in the rear spar at the middle where the wires attach, you would move the first point to the rear spar at the tip and the second point to the front spar at the wire attach point. If the wing is square and true (not likely at this point) the second point will be exactly on the spar centerline over the intersection point of the bracing wires. If not, you need to start adjusting turnbuckles until it does line up. Then put the trammel bar n the original position and see if it will line up. Keep making adjustments like that until that bay is true and square. Then do the other bay in the same manner. Once each bay is trammeled, you should be able to pick up the trammel bar and set in place in either the drag or anti-drag position and the points should just drop into place on the spar centerline directly above the intersection point of the wires. By the time you have the entire wing square and true, your wires should be reasonably tight, but if not yu can tighten them until they generate a nice "Thummm" when plucked. Just remember that to keep the wing true, you will need to tighten them equally (if you turn the drag wire turnbuckle one-half turn, you need to turn the anti-drag wire turnbuckle the same amount, in the same direction). Once you have the wing trammeled and true, with the wires tight you should go ahead and safetywire the turnbuckles so they won't move. You should never have to trammel it again unless something breaks or shifts. This is why you can't do it with a temporary compression strut. If this is not clear, let me know and I'll try to draw some pictures to explain the process. Does your EAA Chapter have a Technical Counselor? If so, he should be able to explain and demonstrate the process for you, and he probably has a set of trammel points to use. Good Luck! Jack Phillips NX899JP Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 6:50 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows I was searching for comments on the construction of wing tip bows and found this thread. This week my local EAA chapter is meeting at my place to look at my project and help me trammel my right wing. I have not made my wing tip bows yet so I temporarily slid in a compression strut at the tip. This should surfice, agreed? I couldn't find a good thread on the construction of the tips so if anyone can point me in a good direction, I would appreciate it. John


    Message 4


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    Time: 04:56:22 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    From: "Kringle" <Mrkringles@msn.com>
    Jack, thanks for the response. My technical advisor is helping me set this up. He is going to show the group the proper way to trammel a wing and told me if the wing is not ready it is no big deal as he will just talk his way through it. Since I don't have my leading and trailing edge finished I'm not sure I can complete the wing tips yet? -------- John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370836#370836


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:05:26 AM PST US
    From: Ben Charvet <bencharvet@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: 8-32 Machine Screws
    I used stainless hardware store screws on mine. I figured they were just to hold it in place while the glue dried. I also used stainless self-locking nuts and washers. Ben Charvet On 4/14/2012 3:29 PM, Kringle wrote: > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Kringle"<Mrkringles@msn.com> > > Can I use standard hardware screws to attach the leading edge or is this screw required to be aircraft grade? If so I can't find them in the ACS catalog. > > -------- > John > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370787#370787 > > -- Ben Charvet, PharmD Staff Pharmacist Parrish Medical center


    Message 6


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    Time: 05:26:02 AM PST US
    From: Ben Charvet <bencharvet@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Need some help....off topic...
    Sounds like a great opportunity. Do you have someone in the area that could do an annual on it for you? He could give the best advice after giving it a once-over. Here in Florida just sitting takes a heavy toll on engines due to corrosion. You need an annual anyway, so I'd try that. Ben On 4/14/2012 7:13 PM, Jim Markle wrote: > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Markle<jim_markle@mindspring.com> > > A pilot friend passed on about a year (or two) ago and his Champ has just been sitting...his daughter owns it now....it's on a grass strip about a mile from us. > > I've recommended to her that we at least pull it out of the hangar and start it from time to time. And she's fine with me taking it up if I want. (Of course I'm fine with that!). Mainly I hate to see it waste away...and it will if we don't do something. > > So do we just start propping to get it started or is there some process we need to follow for an aircraft that's been sitting for so long? > > Sorry for such an "off topic" request but....well....maybe this could lead to me getting some tailwheel time (yes, I know, ONLY after getting some tailwheel training...) but that might make me a better Piet pilot, right? :-) > > If someone has experience with such and could tell me what to watch for and give some pointers it would be appreciated. > > Offlist please. > > Thanks, > Jim in Pryor (where the storms might pass us by this time....) > > -- Ben Charvet, PharmD Staff Pharmacist Parrish Medical center


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:52:00 AM PST US
    From: gliderx5@comcast.net
    Subject: Cost of inspections
    I've been wondering about the cost of annual inspections (or conditions inspections) for experimentals like a Piet vs. simple type certificated airplanes like a cub or colt. In looking over the FARs it seems like the A&P would have to do all of the same things, which then would cost the same. So, without a repairman certificate it looks like there might not be the savings that I anticipated in owning an EAB. Any thoughts or experience? Malcolm Morrison http://home.comcast.net/~mmorrison123/Airplanes.htm


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:52:00 AM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    John, Jack is certainly right, that you would probably not be able to remove the temporary compression struts after the wing is trammeled, but, since this is a learning exorcise, and you still have another wing to do, you could always loosen the cables and re-trammel the wing later. It=92s really a fun and easy process, and you will have the benefit of having it demonstrated for you. As to the construction of the tip bows=85I built mine right on top of the rib template by establishing several =BD way points along the rib, install 3 or 4=94 screws, and clamp the laminating strips to those screws. If it takes you more than an hour per tip you=92re doggin=92 it!! Gary from Cool NX308MB -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack Phillips Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 4:38 AM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows --> < <mailto:pietflyr@bellsouth.net> pietflyr@bellsouth.net> John, You need to go ahead and make the wing tips, since they provide the compression strut at the tip. You can't trammel a wing with a temporary strut and then remove the temporary and replace it with a permanent strut. For one thing, I doubt you could remove the temporary strut once you have the drag and anti-drag wires tensioned properly. Trammeling a wing is not difficult, but it helps to have two people to do it. It also helps to have a couple of Trammel Points mounted on a long light stick (a piece of spruce will do) as a trammel bar. You can do it with a tape measure, but not as accurately as with trammel points (you can buy them at ACS). The procedure is to get the wing laying flat on sawhorses, take the fixed trammel point and punch it into the top of the spar at the intersection of the spar centerline and the drag wire or anti-drag wire fitting. Then swing the trammel bar over so that it is pointing toward the intersection on the other spar where the wires attach and punch the trammel point into the top of that spar over the spar centerline, and the intersection point of the wires. Now lift the trammel bar and reverse it. In other words, if you started at the wingtip with the first trammel point in the front spar and the second point in the rear spar at the middle where the wires attach, you would move the first point to the rear spar at the tip and the second point to the front spar at the wire attach point. If the wing is square and true (not likely at this point) the second point will be exactly on the spar centerline over the intersection point of the bracing wires. If not, you need to start adjusting turnbuckles until it does line up. Then put the trammel bar n the original position and see if it will line up. Keep making adjustments like that until that bay is true and square. Then do the other bay in the same manner. Once each bay is trammeled, you should be able to pick up the trammel bar and set in place in either the drag or anti-drag position and the points should just drop into place on the spar centerline directly above the intersection point of the wires. By the time you have the entire wing square and true, your wires should be reasonably tight, but if not yu can tighten them until they generate a nice "Thummm" when plucked. Just remember that to keep the wing true, you will need to tighten them equally (if you turn the drag wire turnbuckle one-half turn, you need to turn the anti-drag wire turnbuckle the same amount, in the same direction). Once you have the wing trammeled and true, with the wires tight you should go ahead and safetywire the turnbuckles so they won't move. You should never have to trammel it again unless something breaks or shifts. This is why you can't do it with a temporary compression strut. If this is not clear, let me know and I'll try to draw some pictures to explain the process. Does your EAA Chapter have a Technical Counselor? If so, he should be able to explain and demonstrate the process for you, and he probably has a set of trammel points to use. Good Luck! Jack Phillips NX899JP Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia -----Original Message----- From: <mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com> owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com <mailto:[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 6:50 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows <mailto:Mrkringles@msn.com> Mrkringles@msn.com> I was searching for comments on the construction of wing tip bows and found this thread. This week my local EAA chapter is meeting at my place to look at my project and help me trammel my right wing. I have not made my wing tip bows yet so I temporarily slid in a compression strut at the tip. This should surfice, agreed? I couldn't find a good thread on the construction of the tips so if anyone can point me in a good direction, I would appreciate it. John List 7-Day http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List http://www.matronics.com/contribution


    Message 9


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    Time: 07:39:32 AM PST US
    From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Cost of inspections
    Without a repairman's certificate there are still cost savings. You (or anybody else) can make any repairs or modifications desired on an Experimental. Not so for a certificated aircraft. Anything more complicated than an oil change or changing a tire must be done by an A&P on a certificated plane. Shop around and be sure you remind them that only an A&P license is required to inspect a homebuilt. An IA is not required. It should be cheaper, particularly if they will let you do an "owner assisted" inspection (meaning you do all the work under their direction and they provide a signature in the logbook). Jack Phillips NX899JP Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gliderx5@comcast.net Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:51 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cost of inspections I've been wondering about the cost of annual inspections (or conditions inspections) for experimentals like a Piet vs. simple type certificated airplanes like a cub or colt. In looking over the FARs it seems like the A&P would have to do all of the same things, which then would cost the same. So, without a repairman certificate it looks like there might not be the savings that I anticipated in owning an EAB. Any thoughts or experience? Malcolm Morrison http://home.comcast.net/~mmorrison123/Airplanes.htm


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:27:40 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    From: "Kringle" <Mrkringles@msn.com>
    Gary, My plan shows 4 pieces of 1/4" laminated together. Did you soak and bend the plywood to shape? Did you then glue them together, clamp, and sand to the finished piece? John -------- John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370860#370860


    Message 11


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    Time: 08:44:38 AM PST US
    From: Ben Charvet <bencharvet@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Cost of inspections
    As Jack said, you can do any repairs yourself, even without the repairman's certificate. Also, you don't need an IA to sign off an experimental, only an A&P. They aren't required to sign it off as airworthy, and there are no records that need to be researched for 50 years to assure all AD's have been corrected. The sign off for an experimental just states that it has been found in safe condition for flight. When I had my Baby Ace, I was signed off by two different AP's in my EAA chapter and they always did it for free, with me doing all the work. Just one example of why you need to join your local EAA chapter. Ben Charvet On 4/15/2012 9:51 AM, gliderx5@comcast.net wrote: > I've been wondering about the cost of annual inspections (or > conditions inspections) for experimentals like a Piet vs. simple type > certificated airplanes like a cub or colt. In looking over the FARs > it seems like the A&P would have to do all of the same things, which > then would cost the same. So, without a repairman certificate it > looks like there might not be the savings that I anticipated in owning > an EAB. Any thoughts or experience? > > Malcolm Morrison > http://home.comcast.net/~mmorrison123/Airplanes.htm > * > > > * -- Ben Charvet, PharmD Staff Pharmacist Parrish Medical center


    Message 12


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    Time: 09:10:39 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    From: "Kringle" <Mrkringles@msn.com>
    Here's where I am. I could get the temp compression stud out after mounting the wing tip with a saw if I had to. Jack, thanks for the info on tammeling. I assume it is imperative that the points you pick on the front and rear spars must line up from fore to aft exactly to get everything square. -------- John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370866#370866 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram4_192.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram3_849.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram2_154.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram1_203.jpg


    Message 13


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    Time: 10:35:55 AM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    My bows are hickory, and less than 1/4", maybe even 1/8"! They're covered now, and I don't have any close up pics. Still, I would rip 1/4", then see how well it makes the bend...should do fine. It would probably be easiest to glue all together on the flat, then place on to the template and clamp. At least, that's how I did it. No soaking. Gary -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:27 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows Gary, My plan shows 4 pieces of 1/4" laminated together. Did you soak and bend the plywood to shape? Did you then glue them together, clamp, and sand to the finished piece? John -------- John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370860#370860


    Message 14


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    Time: 10:40:37 AM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    Additional thought, John...I think it was Skip Gadd who talked about trammeling at least 3 times, during each phase of the construct. Seems like it would be a mistake to trammel the first time after the leading and trailing edges are on. Gary from Cool NX308MB -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:10 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows Here's where I am. I could get the temp compression stud out after mounting the wing tip with a saw if I had to. Jack, thanks for the info on tammeling. I assume it is imperative that the points you pick on the front and rear spars must line up from fore to aft exactly to get everything square. -------- John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370866#370866 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram4_192.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram3_849.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram2_154.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram1_203.jpg


    Message 15


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    Time: 11:36:41 AM PST US
    From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    Correct. What you are doing is making two triangles and ensuring that they are absolutely identical, as shown: Jack Phillips NX899JP Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 12:10 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows Here's where I am. I could get the temp compression stud out after mounting the wing tip with a saw if I had to. Jack, thanks for the info on tammeling. I assume it is imperative that the points you pick on the front and rear spars must line up from fore to aft exactly to get everything square. -------- John


    Message 16


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    Time: 11:39:17 AM PST US
    From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    Gary is correct. Trammel it before the LE and TE are attached. Jack Phillips NX899JP Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Boothe Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 1:40 PM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows Additional thought, John...I think it was Skip Gadd who talked about trammeling at least 3 times, during each phase of the construct. Seems like it would be a mistake to trammel the first time after the leading and trailing edges are on. Gary from Cool NX308MB -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:10 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows Here's where I am. I could get the temp compression stud out after mounting the wing tip with a saw if I had to. Jack, thanks for the info on tammeling. I assume it is imperative that the points you pick on the front and rear spars must line up from fore to aft exactly to get everything square. -------- John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370866#370866 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram4_192.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram3_849.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram2_154.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/tram1_203.jpg


    Message 17


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    Time: 12:00:29 PM PST US
    From: "Chris" <catdesigns@att.net>
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    John I made my wing tips out of poplar. Looks like I used 7 layers. It doesn't matter how many you use. I made them thin enough so they did not need soaking to bend. To form the tip I traced a wing rib on the back of my wing rib jig. I also marked where the end of the tapered end of the spars are. I then measured and drew a center line down the traced wing rib. I measured half inch above and below to draw the outer lines of the wing tip. Make sure you adjust the line so it coincides with the wing spars. I covered the board with plastic wrap, then hammered in 10 or 15 nails along the outer lines. Trial fit the sticks. After I had it all set up, I quickly glued each stick with T-88, stacked them together, covered them with plastic wrap and clamped with 1-inch binder clips. After they dried I sanded off the excess glue and rounded off the outer edges with my router but a plane or sand paper would work too. Some pictures http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_5056.JPG http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_5058.JPG http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_6043.JPG http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_6044.JPG Installed http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_5559.JPG http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_5560.JPG Chris Sacramento, Ca Westcoastpiet.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:27 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows Gary, My plan shows 4 pieces of 1/4" laminated together. Did you soak and bend the plywood to shape? Did you then glue them together, clamp, and sand to the finished piece? John -------- John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370860#370860


    Message 18


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    Time: 12:02:56 PM PST US
    From: "Chris" <catdesigns@att.net>
    Subject: 8-32 Machine Screws
    John, If you talking about the leading edge of the wing, I have no screws or bolts. I clamped it on. http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/images/IMG_5045.JPG Chris Sacramento, Ca Westcoastpiet.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2012 12:30 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: 8-32 Machine Screws Can I use standard hardware screws to attach the leading edge or is this screw required to be aircraft grade? If so I can't find them in the ACS catalog. -------- John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370787#370787


    Message 19


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    Time: 02:53:13 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    From: "Kringle" <Mrkringles@msn.com>
    Without the wing tip bow in place we could still trammel the inner bay, correct? -------- John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370896#370896


    Message 20


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    Time: 03:11:19 PM PST US
    From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    Yes. Gary Boothe NX308MB -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 2:53 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing Tip Bows Without the wing tip bow in place we could still trammel the inner bay, correct? -------- John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370896#370896


    Message 21


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    Time: 06:28:45 PM PST US
    Subject: Traveling to DFW area
    From: Ken Bickers <bickers.ken@gmail.com>
    If anyone on the list in the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex would welcome a visit next Saturday afternoon, April 21, I'll be flying into DFW and will have a rental car and a bit of free time on my hands. I'd be delighted to spend an hour or two talking Pietenpols or lending a hand. Let me know off-list. Cheers, Ken


    Message 22


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    Time: 09:18:48 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    From: "dwilson" <marwilson@charter.net>
    During Oshkosh 2004 we covered Mr. Pietenpol's 1966 Aircamper. It is the plane that is on display in the Pietenpol Hanger. Here is how he constructed the one piece wing in 1966. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370912#370912 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingtip_compression_strut_214.jpg


    Message 23


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    Time: 09:26:46 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing Tip Bows
    From: "dwilson" <marwilson@charter.net>
    Sorry, This should look better than the previous... The compression strut was 3/4 X 3/4. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370913#370913 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingtip_compression_strut_209.jpg




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