Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:27 AM - Re: cable cutting (Don Emch)
2. 03:28 AM - Re: cable cutting (C N Campbell)
3. 05:21 AM - aileron quick disconnect (nightmare)
4. 05:54 AM - Covering problem? (Chris Rusch)
5. 06:08 AM - Re: Covering problem? (Michael Perez)
6. 06:13 AM - Re: cable cutting (TOM STINEMETZE)
7. 06:16 AM - Re: cable cutting (Michael Perez)
8. 06:33 AM - Re: Covering problem? (Chris Rusch)
9. 06:42 AM - Re: Re: Covering problem? (Michael Perez)
10. 06:47 AM - Re: Covering problem? (H. Marvin Haught)
11. 07:06 AM - Re: cable cutting (Baldeagle)
12. 07:23 AM - Re: Re: cable cutting (Michael Perez)
13. 07:28 AM - Tailwheel endorsement (Dan Loegering)
14. 08:16 AM - Re: Covering problem? (Chris Rusch)
15. 08:51 AM - Re: cable cutting (Jim Boyer)
16. 12:23 PM - Re: Covering problem? (Chris Rusch)
17. 01:32 PM - Layout table extra long 13 Ft + (Pieti Lowell)
18. 02:11 PM - Eyebrow template (Joe Street)
19. 06:55 PM - Re: cable cutting (Larry V)
20. 07:57 PM - Re: aileron quick disconnect (skellytown flyer)
21. 08:30 PM - anticipated cruise? (rorichts)
22. 08:48 PM - Re: aileron quick disconnect (Bill Church)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: cable cutting |
If you wrap with only one tight wrap of masking tape then cut, you can usually
get the end of the cable through the sleeve with the masking tape still on there.
Makes for a much happier time.
Don Emch
NX899DE
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| Subject: | Re: cable cutting |
The absolutely best way is to cut the cable with a small Dremel tool
with a cutoff wheel. I wrap the cable with a couple of layers of
masking tape to keep the cable ends from fraying. If you're cutting
after the sleeve is installed and crimped, use a thin piece of stainless
steel between the cables to prevent nicking the opposite cable. Leeve
at least 1/8-inch beyond the sleeve. C
----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 7:46 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cable cutting
I could use some helpful hints on cutting control cables and being
able to insert them into splicing sleeves. I checked my blood twice
getting one done today. There has got to be a better way.
Ralph in South Dakota
Message 3
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| Subject: | aileron quick disconnect |
I read somewhere about how the brits have a aileron quick disconnect system to
ease in removing wings. anyone know where i can get the plans for it? Thanks;
Paul
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| Subject: | Covering problem? |
I am covering my tail feathers at the moment with SS. everything was going great
until the application of the ecofill. The problem i ran into is ecofill saturating
the fabric and building up on the structure underneath the fabric. Now
that its dry, as i try sanding the surface i run into these clumps of primer just
underneath the fabric stuck to the wood structure and i almost sand thru the
fabric instantly! Anybody else run into this? I was thinking of taking the
small iron and try to mash it flat but im afraid the fabric will stick.....obviously
i put the ecofill on too thick.........it sure didnt seem like it when
i was doing it though.
--------
NX321LR
Fully Assembled less covering
Mistubishi Powered
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Covering problem? |
Chris, I only used the Ekobond, what is the Ekofill used for? Or more pertinent,
what are you using the Ekofill for?
Michael Perez
Pietenpol HINT Videos
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: cable cutting |
Ralph:
Without spending the big bucks for a cable cutter, here is a way that works well
and utilizes items that you probably already have around the shop.
You need a roll of masking tape, hammer, metal chisel, and a metal plate.
Put a small piece of masking tape around the cable with the center of the cut being
in the center of the tape wrap. There should be only one thickness of tape
since you will be leaving it on until the nicopress sleeves have been put on
and more than one layer of tape will make the cable too big.
Sharpen the chisel but don't overdo it. You just want to get rid of any rounding
on the cutting edge.
Position the cable across the metal plate (mine is about 4" x 6" x one quarter
inch thick) making sure the plate is on a secure solid surface and the masking
tape is in the center of the plate. Hold the cable in place with the sharp edge
of the chisel in the center of the tape and strike a single solid blow.
The cable should part cleanly with the tape still in place and protecting both
cut ends.
Now put your heat shrink tubing and nicopress sleeve(s) on over the tape, loop
the cable and run it back through the other side of the sleeve and you are ready
to squeeze. Note that you want to take the tape off before squeezing so it
does not end up inside the sleeve.
Hope this works for you.
Tom Stinemetze
McPherson, KS.
>>> "Ralph" <ralphhsd@itctel.com> 5/23/2012 6:46 PM >>>
I could use some helpful hints on cutting control cables and being able to insert
them into splicing sleeves. I checked my blood twice getting one done today.
There has got to be a better way.
Ralph in South Dakota
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: cable cutting |
I agree with using a nice pair of cable cutters. The straight cutting "dyke
s" as they were once called, will work OK, but the cutters designed for cab
les will have curved, on the inside, blades. This introduces a slicing moti
on which helps provide a clean, effortless cut.- No prep. needed before o
r after.
My second suggestion...gloves.
Michael Perez
=0APietenpol HINT Videos
=0AKaretaker Aero
=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
=0A
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Covering problem? |
Ekofill is the UV protectant/weave fill & primer.
--------
NX321LR
Fully Assembled less covering
Mistubishi Powered
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Covering problem? |
I see. If you are using Stewart's entire system, I would contact them direc
tly.- Do you have their manual? (Download from their website.)- It cove
rs how to use and apply their products.
Michael Perez
=0APietenpol HINT Videos
=0AKaretaker Aero
=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Covering problem? |
Gentlemen --
The EkoFill is used as the filler and is the UV Block. It the the
fabric "primer". Putting on the EkoFill too thick and / or brushing too
hard forces the material through the fabric causing drips on the back
side of the fabric that does what Chris described. I can provide your
with a set of the DVD's explaining the proper method of application and
can walk you through the process too, if needed. It also sounds like
Chris may not have made sure the EkoFill was mixed throughly.
The EkoFill should be applied to the damp fabric, just after washing it
with the EkoClean high strength cleaner. Wipe down the fabric with a
"virgin" (brand new) cotton towel from Costco or SSam's Club (buy in a
bundle) soaked with the EkoFill. Scrub the surface of the fabric to
remove all dirt and grease (oil from hands, dust etc.) with the
EkoClean soaked cloth, turning the cloth often to a fresh surface. Wash
out the cloth frequently in the EkoClean solution and wring out well,
Then go back, again with a "virgin towel" using fresh clean water to
"rinse" the surface, again turning the towel often, rinsing out the
towel and wringing dry. It is important to the EkoFill application that
you leave the surface of the fabric damp - not wet and dripping, but
just slightly damp. This step helps the EkoFill wick between the fibers
to bond and encapulsate the weave.
Do small areas at a time so that the surface does not dry out before you
get to it to apply the EkoFill. Apply the Ekofill with a 3 inch foam
brush (you can use a foam roller on large surface but that is another
technique). Wipe the brush off on the edge of the container so that it
is not dripping and brush on to the surface of the fabric with light
strokes, going in one direction. Go back over the coat constantly with
a "dry" brush tipping out all bubbles and making the product as smooth
as you can. Tipping is using just the tip of the foam brush very
lightly to smooth out any bubbles and even out the coating. A very
light touch is necessary, especially on the first coat, to prevent drip
and pressing the Ekofill through the fabric.
Let dry and repeat the process making your brush strokes 90 degrees to
the first coat. Do NOT sand these first two coats as you do not have
enough build up on the fabric to be sanding. Once those are dry, you
need to spray two cross coats of Eko Fill. You can sand between these
cross coats using a scotchbright pad to just remove the nibs and dust
particles, if you have done a good job of applying the EkoFill smoothly.
Just be careful to not sand through to the fabric and stay off of the
pinked edges of the tapes. You will need to keep ironing down the
pinked edges between each coat using a piece of teflon or a piece of a
turkey basting bag to keep the EkoFill from sticking to the iron.
Chris, you may need to cut that fabric off and reapply, depending upon
how bad the mess is. Your call.
I am attaching my answer to a couple of questions I had from a customer
that may provide some other useful information.
M. Haught
Aircraft Fabric and Finishes LLC
On May 24, 2012, at 8:07 AM, Michael Perez wrote:
> Chris, I only used the Ekobond, what is the Ekofill used for? Or more
pertinent, what are you using the Ekofill for?
>
> Michael Perez
> Pietenpol HINT Videos
> Karetaker Aero
> www.karetakeraero.com
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: cable cutting |
Felco C-7 is what I use, $50 on Amazon.com, I make a lot of control cables though-
-
--------
do not archive
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Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: cable cutting |
I would think that if one were to ask around, one could borrow a cutter fro
m another aircraft- person or eaa chapter...
Michael Perez
=0APietenpol HINT Videos
=0AKaretaker Aero
=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Tailwheel endorsement |
John,
As others have mentioned, the FAA does not have a minimum hour requirement for
the endorsement. However, your insurance company may. I recently purchased a
C-140 for the purposes of getting my TW endorsement, and I was required to have
20 hours of dual! The TW portion only took about 4-5 hours before I was comfortable.
Then we spent the remaining 15 visiting all of the airports within
a 60 mile radius to burn up the time.
I could have obtained the endorsement in the Piet, but it is a couple of years
from being finished, and the wife said "sure" when I off hand asked if I could
buy the Cessna. I wasn't going to pass up that opportunity ;-)
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
Time: 05:02:43 AM PST US
From: John Franklin <jbfjr@peoplepc.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tailwheel endorsement
Pieters,
In order to obtain a tailwheel endorsement, do you have to log some minimum number
of hours in a taildragger or do you just need to be able to demonstrate capability
to an examiner before he signs you off?
Thanks,
John Franklin
Prairie Aire 4TA0
GN-1 / Corvair
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Covering problem? |
Looks like i missed the wetting step..........I went right to applying the ekofill.
After reading your attachment, i went WAY too heavy cause i can see brush
strokes. I think the parts are savable cause you only feel the globs if you push
on the fabric, you cant see them otherwise. What will happen if i use a piece
of teflon fabric and push on the iron over the clumps? I would think it would
melt the primer clump and flatten it. I really do not want to recover.......i
did a really good job on the taping.
--------
NX321LR
Fully Assembled less covering
Mistubishi Powered
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: cable cutting |
Hi Ralph,
Use a cold chisel and lay the cable on a piece of steel; put the chisel on it and
hit it with a hammer. Works great and leaves a clean end that fits into the
copper sleeves well. Thats how I did mine.
Cheers,
Jim
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Covering problem? |
here are some pics
--------
NX321LR
Fully Assembled less covering
Mistubishi Powered
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373794#373794
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2502_126.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2501_616.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2500_132.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2499_104.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2498_546.jpg
Message 17
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| Subject: | Layout table extra long 13 Ft + |
Father's day At Palmyra WI 88C Pancake breakfast, Plus amazing Hanger sales,
Looking for something? Email me and ask,
Pieti Lowell
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373799#373799
Message 18
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| Subject: | Eyebrow template |
Hello all
I am new here and a new owner of a Pietenpol. I took a look in the
archives and found some messages relating to patterns for the eyebrow
cowls for the A65 engine but never found a link or pdf file with the
actual patterns. Does anybody have them?
Thanks
Joe
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: cable cutting |
Hi Ralph
I am using a pair of cable cutters I purchased from aircraft spruce
S & F CABLE CUTTERS #316 part # 12-18600 $19.75
I wrap the cable with a tight wrap of masking tape cut through the tape and cable,
fits through sleeve nicely after cut.
Larry V
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Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: aileron quick disconnect |
I used some simple side plates like a master link with clevis pins through them.popped
the other side on and cotter pins through the clevis pins.actually even
went to the trouble of drilling out 1/4" stainless tubing to slip over the clevis
pins and cut them just long enough to sleeve the pins and give enough clearance
between the plates they don't bind the thimbles. probably overkill. Raymond
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Message 21
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| Subject: | anticipated cruise? |
Greetings
New to the group, glad to be on board.
I am in the process of buying a completed Piet. with a Corvair for the power plant.
What can or should I expect for a cruise rpm and cruise speed?
I realize the prop impacts the outcome but I'm looking for averages so I can determine
what length and pitch should be used.
Thank you in advance for you patience and help
Your input is appreciated
regards
rich
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: aileron quick disconnect |
In order to get a copy of the UK Piet design, all you have to do is move to the
UK or Australia, and send Jim Wills 200 Pounds, and he will gladly sell you a
set of complete LAA approved plans which include the aileron quick-disconnect
system, as well as a built-up spar, and a beefed-up split-axle landing gear design.
Unfortunately, if you live outside of the UK or Australia, you're out of
luck.
Bill C.
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