Today's Message Index:
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1. 12:26 PM - Re: gap seals (C N Campbell)
2. 03:46 PM - Re: gap seals (Kelly Klaus)
3. 04:04 PM - Re: Jake Schultz' table saw push block (aerocarjake)
4. 08:02 PM - Re: Jake Schultz' table saw push block (Bill Church)
5. 08:33 PM - flying wire sizes (Douwe Blumberg)
Message 1
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Skip, does the V made of balsa completely fill up the gap between the
elevator and stabilizer, or does it just go to the centerline with a
similar V on the horizontal stabilizer? I want to do something similar
and would like to know the answer to the above question. Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: skipgadd@earthlink.net
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2012 12:37 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: gap seals
Douwe,
I did kind of the same thing. Used 1/8 balsa glued into a V shape,
than glued on the flippers.
Skip
----- Original Message -----
From: Douwe Blumberg
To: pietenpolgroup
Sent: 7/2/2012 11:09:42 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: gap seals
Dan I have some oatmeal cartons laying around I could send you that
might work for a gap seal. They're Quaker Oats though and the box is of
the modern design so on second thought. Could probably find some
original ones on Ebay though.
All kidding aside, I'm going to make two balsa half rounds or corner
moldings and glue them in there with the faces along the axis which
should allow a pretty tight seal.
Thanks for all the ideas as usual!
Douwe
Message 2
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Jerry, I'm interested in what size piano hinge you used in your elevators. I just
finished building mine and really like the look of yours.
Thanks
Kelly Klaus
Building NX45KK
do not archive.
--------
Kelly Klaus
do not archive.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=377369#377369
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Jake Schultz' table saw push block |
Here are the photos I submitted... not as clear as I would like.
The main point is to have the notch on the block pull the part through without
your hands being anywhere near the blade. The featherboards hold the workpiece
against the fence.
Various positioning of the featherboards can reduce the kickback at the end of
the cut....
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Jake Schultz - curator,
Newport Way Air Museum (OK, it's just my home)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=377371#377371
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/push_block_2_215.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/push_block_136.jpg
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Jake Schultz' table saw push block |
Interesting push block, Jake. At first glance I couldn't figure out what the black
"blob" was. Then I realized that it was to show where the hand and thumb
are to be positioned.
But the real reason for my comment is regarding the second photo. The setup you
have is unconventional, and probably not a good idea. You've got two featherboards
in use - one of them is fine, but the second one is pressing the wood
against the blade. Featherboards really should only be used to hold the stock
against the fence BEFORE the stock reaches the blade, not at the blade, or after
the cut.
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=377399#377399
Message 5
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| Subject: | flying wire sizes |
Hey all,
Don't have my plans handy. What size are the flying wires? 3/32 or 1/8th.
Can't remember
douwe
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