Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:19 AM - Re: Re: How would you position the control stick? (Ryan Mueller)
2. 11:47 AM - Steel Fittings and Prep questions (Mark Roberts)
3. 12:21 PM - Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions (Greg Cardinal)
4. 01:16 PM - Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions (Ryan M)
5. 01:22 PM - Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions (tools)
6. 01:46 PM - Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions (Mark Roberts)
7. 01:54 PM - Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions (Mark Roberts)
8. 01:57 PM - Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions (Mark Roberts)
9. 02:29 PM - Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions (Billy McCaskill)
10. 02:54 PM - Re: what I would do differently, wing spars and other things (taildrags)
11. 04:50 PM - Routed Rib Jig (FandS_Piet)
12. 05:02 PM - Re: Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions (Gene Rambo)
13. 07:47 PM - Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions (kevinpurtee)
14. 09:49 PM - looking for the new aircraft flying the Riblett wing (nightmare)
15. 09:52 PM - Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions (Mark Roberts)
16. 10:05 PM - Re: looking for the new aircraft flying the Riblett wing (nightmare)
17. 11:41 PM - Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions (Mark Roberts)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: How would you position the control stick? |
That rudder bar, so crazy!
do not archive
On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 5:02 PM, tools <n0kkj@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Thought there was NO WAY I could operate that rudder bar.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
I began cutting steel last night and I made my first Cabane fittings that will
go on the Fuse to hold the center Cabanes onto the fuselage. Drilled the holes
with a borrowed MicroLux mill so it is all accurate down to the .001 (sure makes
it easy to just turn a crank handle ever so many turns to dial in a measurement!)
I have been reading Tony B's chapter on fittings and have a few questions:
He mentions having NO scratches on the steel, and to keep the edges of the steel
rather sharp. I rounded the edges of the flat stock with the grinder. I hate
to sound naive, but I am with steel: is rounded edges on the straps a problem?
Polishing the faces of the steel: I bought a grinder that has 2 wheels- a rough
and a fine wheel. BUT, the wheels are about 3/4" wide, and so I have used the
side of the wheels to grind the round edges, otherwise I would get a series of
3/4" marks all down the side, and would not be smooth or consistant. So, what
do you use to polish the FACE of the part to prep it for the Zinc paint? I got
some very small marks in the steel from filing the edges off of the holes I
drilled, so I'd like to polish them out. Nothing deep, just the standard scratches
in the face of the steel when you run a file over it.
Also, when fitting these to the fuselage, I am assuming the 2 holes that are drilled
in the fuse to mount these fittings (again, to hold the center cabanes to
the fuse) are drilled as such: the first hole at the bottom of the fitting is
drilled through the side strut leading to the top longeron, and the second hole
through the center line of the side of the top longeron. Is this correct?
How far up should the 1/4" hole be above the top longeron to safely fit the cabane
strut?
I am comfortable with the wood, but haven't found my sea legs yet with the steel.
However, I DO have 8 new fittings that look pretty good, I just need to figure
how smooth to make them without over doing it!
Thanks for the help. I feel these questions are a bit juvenile, but they caused
me some angst last night whilst trying to fall asleep!
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382682#382682
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
Rounded edges on the steel fittings is no problem.
Polish them using a Scotchbrite wheel on your grinder. It is especially
important to polish the edges before you do any bending.
When drilling holes use an undersized twist drill and use a reamer for final
hole sizing.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Roberts" <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 1:47 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Steel Fittings and Prep questions
> <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
>
> I began cutting steel last night and I made my first Cabane fittings that
> will go on the Fuse to hold the center Cabanes onto the fuselage. Drilled
> the holes with a borrowed MicroLux mill so it is all accurate down to the
> .001 (sure makes it easy to just turn a crank handle ever so many turns to
> dial in a measurement!)
>
> I have been reading Tony B's chapter on fittings and have a few questions:
>
> He mentions having NO scratches on the steel, and to keep the edges of the
> steel rather sharp. I rounded the edges of the flat stock with the
> grinder. I hate to sound naive, but I am with steel: is rounded edges on
> the straps a problem?
>
> Polishing the faces of the steel: I bought a grinder that has 2 wheels- a
> rough and a fine wheel. BUT, the wheels are about 3/4" wide, and so I have
> used the side of the wheels to grind the round edges, otherwise I would
> get a series of 3/4" marks all down the side, and would not be smooth or
> consistant. So, what do you use to polish the FACE of the part to prep it
> for the Zinc paint? I got some very small marks in the steel from filing
> the edges off of the holes I drilled, so I'd like to polish them out.
> Nothing deep, just the standard scratches in the face of the steel when
> you run a file over it.
>
> Also, when fitting these to the fuselage, I am assuming the 2 holes that
> are drilled in the fuse to mount these fittings (again, to hold the center
> cabanes to the fuse) are drilled as such: the first hole at the bottom of
> the fitting is drilled through the side strut leading to the top longeron,
> and the second hole through the center line of the side of the top
> longeron. Is this correct? How far up should the 1/4" hole be above the
> top longeron to safely fit the cabane strut?
>
> I am comfortable with the wood, but haven't found my sea legs yet with the
> steel. However, I DO have 8 new fittings that look pretty good, I just
> need to figure how smooth to make them without over doing it!
>
> Thanks for the help. I feel these questions are a bit juvenile, but they
> caused me some angst last night whilst trying to fall asleep!
>
> Mark
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382682#382682
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
Mark do you have any pics of the MicroLux in action?=0A=0ARyan=0A=0A=0A____
____________________________=0A From: Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Saturday, September 8, 2012 2:
47 PM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Steel Fittings and Prep questions=0A =0A--
=0A=0AI began cutting steel last night and I made my first Cabane fittings
that will go on the Fuse to hold the center Cabanes onto the fuselage. Dril
led the holes with a borrowed MicroLux mill so it is all accurate down to t
he .001 (sure makes it easy to just turn a crank handle ever so many turns
to dial in a measurement!)=0A=0AI have been reading Tony B's chapter on fit
tings and have a few questions:=0A=0AHe mentions having NO scratches on the
steel, and to keep the edges of the steel rather sharp. I rounded the edge
s of the flat stock with the grinder. I hate to sound naive, but I am with
steel: is rounded edges on the straps a problem?=0A=0APolishing the faces o
f the steel: I bought a grinder that has 2 wheels- a rough and a fine wheel
. BUT, the wheels are about 3/4" wide, and so I have used the side of the w
heels to grind the round edges, otherwise I would get a series of 3/4" mark
s all down the side, and would not be smooth or consistant. So, what do you
use to polish the FACE of the part to prep it for the Zinc paint? I got so
me very small marks in the steel from filing the edges off of the holes I d
rilled, so I'd like to polish them out. Nothing deep, just the standard scr
atches in the face of the steel when you run a file over it.=0A=0AAlso, whe
n fitting these to the fuselage, I am assuming the 2 holes that are drilled
in the fuse to mount these fittings (again, to hold the center cabanes to
the fuse) are drilled as such: the first hole at the bottom of the fitting
is drilled through the side strut leading to the top longeron, and the seco
nd hole through the center line of the side of the top longeron. Is this co
rrect? How far up should the 1/4" hole be above the top longeron to safely
fit the cabane strut?=0A=0AI am comfortable with the wood, but haven't foun
d my sea legs yet with the steel. However, I DO have 8 new fittings that lo
ok pretty good, I just need to figure how smooth to make them without over
doing it!=0A=0AThanks for the help. I feel these questions are a bit juveni
le, but they caused me some angst last night whilst trying to fall asleep!
=0A=0AMark=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.ma
=============
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
Mark,
You mention polishing, then mention you have a grinder with a fine and coarse wheel...
Several things come to mind here. First, a "grinder" is a nebulous term. You
have a grinder motor (?) with a couple of grinding wheels on it most likely.
Those wheels, coarse and fine, 3/4" wide, are most likely aluminum oxide wheels.
They are good for actually shaping parts you are making, as well as "polishing"
to the extent of maybe removing saw marks (hack saw, contour saw, horiz
metal cutting saw, etc) from the edges of parts before you polish them.
In the big scheme of things, those things are pretty coarse and generally leave
a scratch pattern deep enough to create stress risers. Which is how they can
shape metal. Things that polish, for the most part, don't change the shape of
the metal significantly.
So, what Greg mentions is a "scotchbrite" wheel. It'll look quite like the wheels
on your "grinder", but it's made of a propietary stuff that really is just
a fine abrasive that will take out grinder marks. Probably not quite aggressive
enough to take out most saw marks. Does that make sense?
Those scotchbrite wheels are about a hundred bucks, though they'll last for a dozen
or so piets... You would mount it on your grinder, which is why I call "grinders"
nebulous, because once you do that, it's kind of a polisher, ya know?
Really, it's just a motor, what it does depends on what you have mounted on
it.
A quick safety note. Those gray aluminum oxide wheels aren't really meant to be
used on the sides, though about everyone does. Just be careful and don't put
a lot of pressure when using the sides.
You can also use sanders to do the polishing you need for these metal fittings.
They're called sanders because the most common use for them is to mount a belt
of sandpaper and sand wood. However, you can get "sandpaper" in all sorts
of configurations. Stuff specifically made to withstand the harshness of "sanding"
metal, sufficiently fine, will do the same polishing as the scotchbrite
wheel. Sufficiently coarse, will shape metal easily.
The most common sanders for this sort of thing is a little benchtop sander that
uses 1"x30" or 1"x42" belts, or one that uses a 4"x36" or 4"x48" belt, or ones
that use various sized discs.
Aluminum oxide sanding belts are generally used for woodworking (and are reddish)
but will work. Better (and more expensive) are blue ones made of Zirconium
Oxide. Coarse ones are good enough to shape metal, really fine ones do a grand
job of polishing out saw marks and deep scratches left by the coarser belts
(or grinding wheels).
Google a company called Klingspor, or "the sanding company" for some great info
on sanding products.
So, generally, and for a quick efficient job, it's a couple of steps. Cut out
the part (with some sort of saw). Do further shaping (files, grinders or coarse
sanding belts). Use the same gizmo you used for "further shaping" to get ride
of really coarse saw marks (or milling machine marks, whatever). Then use
fine products (belts, scotchbrite wheels, or even really fine files) to just
get rid of any obvious easily visible scratches.
Keep in mind how you use any given method of sanding, or grinding (which are also
merely methods of cutting) matters. A coarse medium applied randomly, will
produce a smoother surface, hence the effectiveness of random orbit (or dual
action) sanders. Although it's a bit deceiving. The size of the particle doing
the cutting really is the governing factor. But when applied randomly, there
aren't really any long deep straight scratches.
Pay close attention when you use a file. When used one way, there's an obvious
scratch pattern left behind (bad for stress risers and eventual cracks), but
used another way (as in drawfiling) a smooth surface is left behind.
The goal of all of this is to NOT leave behind a scratch pattern that is conducive
to metal cracking with exposure to vibration (or while bending).
If you keep that in mind, it makes more sense.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382688#382688
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
Not yet, but I'll take some. I don't have it connected to any stepper motors to
use it as a CNC, but I am thinking about it. Wouldn't be too hard... But, for
just boring holes in a straight line, I am 'counting the turns' manually! :D
I'll post some soon...
aircamperace(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Mark do you have any pics of the MicroLux in action?
>
>
> Ryan
>
>
> From: Mark Roberts
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2012 2:47 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Steel Fittings and Prep questions
>
>
>
> I began cutting steel last night and I made my first Cabane fittings that will
go on the Fuse to hold the center Cabanes onto the fuselage. Drilled the holes
with a borrowed MicroLux mill so it is all accurate down to the .001 (sure
makes it easy to just turn a crank handle ever so many turns to dial in a measurement!)
>
> I have been reading Tony B's chapter on fittings and have a few questions:
>
> He mentions having NO scratches on the steel, and to keep the edges of the steel
rather sharp. I rounded the edges of the flat stock with the grinder. I hate
to sound naive, but I am with steel: is rounded edges on the straps a problem?
>
> Polishing the faces of the steel: I bought a grinder that has 2 wheels- a rough
and a fine wheel. BUT, the wheels are about 3/4" wide, and so I have used
the side of the wheels to grind the round edges, otherwise I would get a series
of 3/4" marks all down the side, and would not be smooth or consistant. So,
what do you use to polish the FACE of the part to prep it for the Zinc paint?
I got some very small marks in the steel from filing the edges off of the holes
I drilled, so I'd like to polish them out. Nothing deep, just the standard scratches
in the face of the steel when you run a file over it.
>
> Also, when fitting these to the fuselage, I am assuming the 2 holes that are
drilled in the fuse to mount these fittings (again, to hold the center cabanes
to the fuse) are drilled as such: the first hole at the bottom of the fitting
is drilled through the side strut leading to the top longeron, and the second
hole through the center line of the side of the top longeron. Is this correct?
How far up should the 1/4" hole be above the top longeron to safely fit the
cabane strut?
>
> I am comfortable with the wood, but haven't found my sea legs yet with the steel.
However, I DO have 8 new fittings that look pretty good, I just need to
figure how smooth to make them without over doing it!
>
> Thanks for the help. I feel these questions are a bit juvenile, but they caused
me some angst last night whilst trying to fall asleep!
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopicmatronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382689#382689
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
Wow! Thanks guys for the good replies. I am doing some further research on the
Scotch-Brite wheels mentioned and there appears to be a series of them. Not to
beat a dead horse, as I bet all of them would work well, but do you have any
idea which might e better at this on 4130 than perhaps another? Here are a couple
of links on amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Multi-Finishing-Wheel-PRICE-WHEEL/dp/B0006N7KZE
http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Deburring-Wheel-PRICE-WHEEL/dp/B0012ISZOM/ref=pd_sbs_indust_3
and finally:
http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Deburring-Wheel-PRICE-WHEEL/dp/B0012ISZOM/ref=pd_sbs_indust_3
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382690#382690
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
BTW, Thanks Tools for the very detailed help... I am off to look for stuff at http://www.klingspor.com/
(Always wondered where the Klingons came from... This being the 46th anniversary
of Star Trek)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382691#382691
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
Mark, don't forget to very lightly chamfer/deburr any holes that you drill or ream
in your steel fittings. This will also help prevent stress risers.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Baker, LA
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382695#382695
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: what I would do differently, wing spars and other |
things
Axel: gimp on out here on that bad leg and get me if you can. Set heading about
330 magnetic and settle in for a 2200 mi. ride. When you get here, I know you
can easily beat me up but it will be hard for you to do with a pint of Standing
Stone Amber Ale in one hand and a Pacific halibut hamburger in the other.
I'll have them ready.
I do hope to fly wingman with you again sometime. I realize that you'll need to
throttle back to about 1/2 throttle to keep the mighty Vair under control while
my old Continental wheezes away at full throttle, but a minute or two is all
it will take for some air-to-air shots and then you can power away from me
again.
Hope you are healing well, friend.
do not archive
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford/Ashland, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382696#382696
Message 11
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Here is a picture of our rib jig. We drew up the rib in autocad and had it routed
it out on a cnc. The reason we came up with this ideas is being that my father
and I are both building together we wanted to be able to both make ribs
in our own garages at our leisure as we continue to focus on other parts of the
build when we get together. We wanted to ensure that they where exactly the
same. All the gusset areas are routed down about 1/32 so you can inlay and snap
the bottom gussets in place, that way we can glue both sides of the rib up
at once and complete a whole rib per night instead of just one side. After
the first rib my dad came up with the clever idea of making a peg board to remove
the completed rib once dry.
--------
Fred Kim
Pittsburgh, Pa
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382701#382701
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/gedc1585_135.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/gedc1564_957.jpg
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
J...F...C... Tools=2C write a book or something . . . .
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions
> From: n0kkj@yahoo.com
> Date: Sat=2C 8 Sep 2012 13:22:15 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Mark=2C
>
> You mention polishing=2C then mention you have a grinder with a fine and
coarse wheel...
>
> Several things come to mind here. First=2C a "grinder" is a nebulous ter
m. You have a grinder motor (?) with a couple of grinding wheels on it mos
t likely. Those wheels=2C coarse and fine=2C 3/4" wide=2C are most likely
aluminum oxide wheels. They are good for actually shaping parts you are ma
king=2C as well as "polishing" to the extent of maybe removing saw marks (h
ack saw=2C contour saw=2C horiz metal cutting saw=2C etc) from the edges of
parts before you polish them.
>
> In the big scheme of things=2C those things are pretty coarse and general
ly leave a scratch pattern deep enough to create stress risers. Which is h
ow they can shape metal. Things that polish=2C for the most part=2C don't
change the shape of the metal significantly.
>
> So=2C what Greg mentions is a "scotchbrite" wheel. It'll look quite like
the wheels on your "grinder"=2C but it's made of a propietary stuff that r
eally is just a fine abrasive that will take out grinder marks. Probably n
ot quite aggressive enough to take out most saw marks. Does that make sens
e?
>
> Those scotchbrite wheels are about a hundred bucks=2C though they'll last
for a dozen or so piets... You would mount it on your grinder=2C which is
why I call "grinders" nebulous=2C because once you do that=2C it's kind of
a polisher=2C ya know? Really=2C it's just a motor=2C what it does depend
s on what you have mounted on it.
>
> A quick safety note. Those gray aluminum oxide wheels aren't really mean
t to be used on the sides=2C though about everyone does. Just be careful a
nd don't put a lot of pressure when using the sides.
>
> You can also use sanders to do the polishing you need for these metal fit
tings. They're called sanders because the most common use for them is to m
ount a belt of sandpaper and sand wood. However=2C you can get "sandpaper"
in all sorts of configurations. Stuff specifically made to withstand the
harshness of "sanding" metal=2C sufficiently fine=2C will do the same polis
hing as the scotchbrite wheel. Sufficiently coarse=2C will shape metal eas
ily.
>
> The most common sanders for this sort of thing is a little benchtop sande
r that uses 1"x30" or 1"x42" belts=2C or one that uses a 4"x36" or 4"x48" b
elt=2C or ones that use various sized discs.
>
> Aluminum oxide sanding belts are generally used for woodworking (and are
reddish) but will work. Better (and more expensive) are blue ones made of
Zirconium Oxide. Coarse ones are good enough to shape metal=2C really fine
ones do a grand job of polishing out saw marks and deep scratches left by
the coarser belts (or grinding wheels).
>
> Google a company called Klingspor=2C or "the sanding company" for some gr
eat info on sanding products.
>
> So=2C generally=2C and for a quick efficient job=2C it's a couple of step
s. Cut out the part (with some sort of saw). Do further shaping (files=2C
grinders or coarse sanding belts). Use the same gizmo you used for "furth
er shaping" to get ride of really coarse saw marks (or milling machine mark
s=2C whatever). Then use fine products (belts=2C scotchbrite wheels=2C or
even really fine files) to just get rid of any obvious easily visible scrat
ches.
>
> Keep in mind how you use any given method of sanding=2C or grinding (whic
h are also merely methods of cutting) matters. A coarse medium applied ran
domly=2C will produce a smoother surface=2C hence the effectiveness of rand
om orbit (or dual action) sanders. Although it's a bit deceiving. The siz
e of the particle doing the cutting really is the governing factor. But wh
en applied randomly=2C there aren't really any long deep straight scratches
.
>
> Pay close attention when you use a file. When used one way=2C there's an
obvious scratch pattern left behind (bad for stress risers and eventual cr
acks)=2C but used another way (as in drawfiling) a smooth surface is left b
ehind.
>
> The goal of all of this is to NOT leave behind a scratch pattern that is
conducive to metal cracking with exposure to vibration (or while bending).
>
> If you keep that in mind=2C it makes more sense.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382688#382688
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
Tony B's dead. There's more to write about building aircraft, I'm sure. Volumes
and volumes and volumes.
Important to drill those holes to .001" accuracy. When you take your hand drill
and use a technique called "wallering" to get the bolts to go through those
close-tolerance holes that accuracy will be extremely relevant.
Enjoy your build, Mark. I appreciate your enthusiasm, Sir:).
do not archive
--------
Kevin "Axel" Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/San Marcos, TX
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Message 14
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| Subject: | looking for the new aircraft flying the Riblett wing |
spent the last half hour searching to no avail for the individual who (within the
last few months or so) posted how they are flying their newly finished piet
with a riblett wing. i think the fuselage is 2 inches deeper and 2 inches wider,
if that rings any bells. Was hoping to find out more about his real world
experience with the wing. Thanks; Paul Donahue
--------
Paul Donahue
Started 8-3-12
do not archive
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
Hey guys, slightly off topic, but I am really impressed and grateful to be a part
of this list.... Let me BRIEFLY (I tend to ramble) explain:
Looked for years to decided what to build. Didn't look at the support groups or
lists like this to determine what to build, but I should have. I have a link
directly to this list that I use to log in. Tonight I had to log on via the forums.matronics.com
site and navigate to this group. On the way I slowly scrolled
through the main page of groups to see what other groups are active. I had
NO idea that this group was far away the most active and helpful! Have you guys
seen the difference in the amount of posts here versus the other popular builds?
I was very surprised and very pleased.
You know, it could be somewhat intimidating to see how much this forum is read,
but you guys make it so comfortable to ask a question, and are so supportive
and non-cliquish that I haven't thought about asking a question or two. I'd like
to again say thanks for the help.
So I'll be ordering a scotch-brite wheel soon. But until then, I sure appreciate
the advice and moral support. I hope I can afford a Brodhead trip next year!
Mark
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| Subject: | Re: looking for the new aircraft flying the Riblett wing |
Oh, Just refined my search and found him. disreguard. thanks
--------
Paul Donahue
Started 8-3-12
do not archive
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382716#382716
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings and Prep questions |
Quick follow up on the first post question that I didn't see addressed is placement
of the drilled holes for the cabana fittings:
Also, when fitting these to the fuselage, I am assuming the 2 holes that are drilled
in the fuse to mount these fittings (again, to hold the center cabanes to
the fuse) are drilled as such: the first hole at the bottom of the fitting is
drilled through the side strut leading to the top longeron, and the second hole
through the center line of the side of the top longeron. Is this correct?
How far up should the 1/4" hole be above the top longeron to safely fit the cabane
strut?
Thanks again.
Mark
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