Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:48 AM - Re: Moontown Fly In Fun (Jerry Dotson)
2. 10:05 AM - Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom (Greg Bacon)
3. 10:27 AM - Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom (Gene Rambo)
4. 10:34 AM - Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom (Jack Phillips)
5. 10:34 AM - Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom (gboothe5@comcast.net)
6. 10:40 AM - Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom (helspersew@aol.com)
7. 10:51 AM - Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom (Rick Schreiber)
8. 10:54 AM - corvair air cooling shrouds (Rick Schreiber)
9. 01:01 PM - Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom (C N Campbell)
10. 01:55 PM - Re: corvair air cooling shrouds (C N Campbell)
11. 06:31 PM - Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom (Greg Bacon)
12. 07:46 PM - NAS3 Assembly Bolts (Oscar Zuniga)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Moontown Fly In Fun |
That is fantastic...........now if Gardiner can get his back in the air!
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
First flight June 16,2012
Started building July, 2009
21" wheels
Lycoming O-235 C2C
Jay Anderson CloudCars prop 76 X 44
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383492#383492
Message 2
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| Subject: | Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom |
Just something I though worthy of sharing with the group and to open up the
topic for comments from veteran builders-
I've heard comments about the challenge (anxiety) of covering a concave
shaped wing bottom. I just got off the phone with Dan Stewart of Stewart
Systems. I asked Dan for advice on the best way to handle the under camber
covering. First though, I measured the farthest distance the fabrik would
pull away by running a string from the leading edge to the trailing edge on
the wing bottom. The greatest distance was 9/16 inch. Dan said this
distance was not great and many builders simply pull it in during the rib
stitching process, well after the final shrink. He said you can also
follow this sequence; lightly glue fabrik to the bottom capstrips by
precoating them with EkoBond then tack with heat after the perimeter is
glued down, lightly iron (about 200F) just to get out the wrinkles, rib
stitch, then shrink at 250 then 315. This is almost exactly as described
in the PolyFiber manual.
Thoughts or better ideas?
Thanks!
--
Greg Bacon
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom |
Just stitch it. It is a non issue.
On Sep 19, 2012, at 1:05 PM, Greg Bacon <gbacon67@gmail.com> wrote:
> Just something I though worthy of sharing with the group and to open up th
e topic for comments from veteran builders-
>
> I've heard comments about the challenge (anxiety) of covering a concave sh
aped wing bottom. I just got off the phone with Dan Stewart of Stewart Syst
ems. I asked Dan for advice on the best way to handle the under camber cove
ring. First though, I measured the farthest distance the fabrik would pull a
way by running a string from the leading edge to the trailing edge on the wi
ng bottom. The greatest distance was 9/16 inch. Dan said this distance was
not great and many builders simply pull it in during the rib stitching proc
ess, well after the final shrink. He said you can also follow this sequence
; lightly glue fabrik to the bottom capstrips by precoating them with EkoBo
nd then tack with heat after the perimeter is glued down, lightly iron (abou
t 200F) just to get out the wrinkles, rib stitch, then shrink at 250 then 31
5. This is almost exactly as described in the PolyFiber manual.
>
> Thoughts or better ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Greg Bacon
>
>
>
>
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>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom |
I did it per the second technique you listed, but I think just stitching it
would be fine.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Bacon
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:05 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom
Just something I though worthy of sharing with the group and to open up the
topic for comments from veteran builders-
I've heard comments about the challenge (anxiety) of covering a concave
shaped wing bottom. I just got off the phone with Dan Stewart of Stewart
Systems. I asked Dan for advice on the best way to handle the under camber
covering. First though, I measured the farthest distance the fabrik would
pull away by running a string from the leading edge to the trailing edge on
the wing bottom. The greatest distance was 9/16 inch. Dan said this
distance was not great and many builders simply pull it in during the rib
stitching process, well after the final shrink. He said you can also follow
this sequence; lightly glue fabrik to the bottom capstrips by precoating
them with EkoBond then tack with heat after the perimeter is glued down,
lightly iron (about 200F) just to get out the wrinkles, rib stitch, then
shrink at 250 then 315. This is almost exactly as described in the
PolyFiber manual.
Thoughts or better ideas?
Thanks!
--
Greg Bacon
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom |
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom |
Glue it, then stitch.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Bacon <gbacon67@gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Sep 19, 2012 12:05 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom
Just something I though worthy of sharing with the group and to open up the
topic for comments from veteran builders-
I've heard comments about the challenge (anxiety) of covering a concave sha
ped wing bottom. I just got off the phone with Dan Stewart of Stewart Syst
ems. I asked Dan for advice on the best way to handle the under camber cov
ering. First though, I measured the farthest distance the fabrik would pul
l away by running a string from the leading edge to the trailing edge on th
e wing bottom. The greatest distance was 9/16 inch. Dan said this distanc
e was not great and many builders simply pull it in during the rib stitchin
g process, well after the final shrink. He said you can also follow this s
equence; lightly glue fabrik to the bottom capstrips by precoating them wi
th EkoBond then tack with heat after the perimeter is glued down, lightly i
ron (about 200F) just to get out the wrinkles, rib stitch, then shrink at 2
50 then 315. This is almost exactly as described in the PolyFiber manual.
Thoughts or better ideas?
Thanks!
--
Greg Bacon
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom |
On 9/19/2012 12:05 PM, Greg Bacon wrote:
> Just something I though worthy of sharing with the group and to open
> up the topic for comments from veteran builders-
>
> I've heard comments about the challenge (anxiety) of covering a
> concave shaped wing bottom. I just got off the phone with Dan Stewart
> of Stewart Systems. I asked Dan for advice on the best way to handle
> the under camber covering. First though, I measured the farthest
> distance the fabrik would pull away by running a string from the
> leading edge to the trailing edge on the wing bottom. The greatest
> distance was 9/16 inch. Dan said this distance was not great and many
> builders simply pull it in during the rib stitching process, well
> after the final shrink. He said you can also follow this sequence;
> lightly glue fabrik to the bottom capstrips by precoating them with
> EkoBond then tack with heat after the perimeter is glued down, lightly
> iron (about 200F) just to get out the wrinkles, rib stitch, then
> shrink at 250 then 315. This is almost exactly as described in the
> PolyFiber manual.
>
> Thoughts or better ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Greg Bacon
>
>
Greg,
I shrunk my wings to 350 and just ignored the undercamber. When you then
ribstitch it pulls into place with no problems. I did use anti-chafe
tape on all of my ribs. In the hot weather we had this summer the tape
did not stick very well. I was concerned that in the undercamber area it
would shift before I was able to anchor it permanetly with the fabric
and rib stitching. What I wound up doing is dabbing on a little EkoBond
every few inches on top of the ribs. Once it dried, the anti-chafe tape
stuck very well.
Rick Schreiber
Valparaiso IN
NX478RS
Message 8
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| Subject: | corvair air cooling shrouds |
For my corvair I am having trouble finding a cooling air shroud for the side between
the oil cooler and the rear of the cylinders. I can locate one for the
coil side, but not the oil cooler side.
What is the reason for this shroud? I will be using cub style eyebrows for the
air inlets. On the distributor side the shroud is
necessary to force the cooling air down through the heads. Since I am
using a stock folded 12 fin cooler, wont the cooler do the same for the
left side? I have made shrouds for the left and right sides of the
cooler. Does the shroud on the oil cooler side stop the air from going
between the rear cylinder head and the oil cooler?
Rick Schreiber
Valparaiso, IN
NX478RS
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom |
One of the Piet list said that he covered both top and bottom gluing
just around the edges. He then heat shrunk the fabric at 200 degrees.
Then he rib-stiched the entire wing, pulling that 9/16-inch in with the
stitching. Then he heat shrunk at 300 degrees. Fini
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Bacon
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:05 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom
Just something I though worthy of sharing with the group and to open
up the topic for comments from veteran builders-
I've heard comments about the challenge (anxiety) of covering a
concave shaped wing bottom. I just got off the phone with Dan Stewart
of Stewart Systems. I asked Dan for advice on the best way to handle
the under camber covering. First though, I measured the farthest
distance the fabrik would pull away by running a string from the leading
edge to the trailing edge on the wing bottom. The greatest distance was
9/16 inch. Dan said this distance was not great and many builders
simply pull it in during the rib stitching process, well after the final
shrink. He said you can also follow this sequence; lightly glue fabrik
to the bottom capstrips by precoating them with EkoBond then tack with
heat after the perimeter is glued down, lightly iron (about 200F) just
to get out the wrinkles, rib stitch, then shrink at 250 then 315. This
is almost exactly as described in the PolyFiber manual.
Thoughts or better ideas?
Thanks!
--
Greg Bacon
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: corvair air cooling shrouds |
Rick, I just checked my engine. The left shroud goes between the #2
cylinder and the oil cooler (I also have the 12-plate cooler). You must
have one. The shroud forces the air down through the fins on the #2
cylinder. A shroud should also be built with the opening at least as large
as the area of the top of the oil cooler to force cooling air from the top
of the engine down through the cooler. Clear as mud? C
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Schreiber" <lmforge@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:53 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: corvair air cooling shrouds
> <lmforge@earthlink.net>
>
> For my corvair I am having trouble finding a cooling air shroud for the
> side between
> the oil cooler and the rear of the cylinders. I can locate one for the
> coil side, but not the oil cooler side.
>
> What is the reason for this shroud? I will be using cub style eyebrows for
> the air inlets. On the distributor side the shroud is
> necessary to force the cooling air down through the heads. Since I am
> using a stock folded 12 fin cooler, wont the cooler do the same for the
> left side? I have made shrouds for the left and right sides of the
> cooler. Does the shroud on the oil cooler side stop the air from going
> between the rear cylinder head and the oil cooler?
>
> Rick Schreiber
> Valparaiso, IN
> NX478RS
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Covering the Pietenpol Wing Bottom |
Thanks everyone! Obviously, many different methods work and it's not a big
deal. This thread should be helpful for other newbies like me.
Greg
On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 12:05 PM, Greg Bacon <gbacon67@gmail.com> wrote:
> Just something I though worthy of sharing with the group and to open up
> the topic for comments from veteran builders-
>
> I've heard comments about the challenge (anxiety) of covering a concave
> shaped wing bottom. I just got off the phone with Dan Stewart of Stewart
> Systems. I asked Dan for advice on the best way to handle the under camber
> covering. First though, I measured the farthest distance the fabrik would
> pull away by running a string from the leading edge to the trailing edge on
> the wing bottom. The greatest distance was 9/16 inch. Dan said this
> distance was not great and many builders simply pull it in during the rib
> stitching process, well after the final shrink. He said you can also
> follow this sequence; lightly glue fabrik to the bottom capstrips by
> precoating them with EkoBond then tack with heat after the perimeter is
> glued down, lightly iron (about 200F) just to get out the wrinkles, rib
> stitch, then shrink at 250 then 315. This is almost exactly as described
> in the PolyFiber manual.
>
> Thoughts or better ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Greg Bacon
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Greg Bacon
Message 12
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| Subject: | NAS3 Assembly Bolts |
I have only worked on 8-10 Strombergs and maybe looked at that many more wh
ile paying attention=2C but every one of them had safety-wired fillister he
ad screws holding the two carb halves together. You're less likely to over
-tighten the fasteners and over-compress the gasket with screws as you are
with bolts that you can put a wrench on=2C but that's not a big problem if
you recognize that the gasket is doing the important work=2C not the fasten
ers.
Michael is an A&P=2C so he understands the concept.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
Medford=2C OR
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