Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:22 AM - Re: make sure your tailwheel steering springs are secure.... (Jerry Dotson)
2. 05:18 AM - radiator fluid (Douwe Blumberg)
3. 05:59 AM - Re: Re: make sure your tailwheel steering springs are secure.... (Jim Boyer)
4. 06:00 AM - official fish scales (Donald Lane)
5. 09:34 AM - Re: Fuselage (aerocarjake)
6. 12:42 PM - Re: radiator fluid (BYD)
7. 01:27 PM - Re: Re: radiator fluid (Gene Rambo)
8. 03:17 PM - Re: radiator fluid (BYD)
9. 04:07 PM - Re: Re: radiator fluid (airlion)
10. 06:12 PM - Re: Tubing Coping (K5YAC)
11. 09:52 PM - Re: make sure your tailwheel steering springs are secure.... (Steve Ruse)
12. 11:27 PM - Re: Re: radiator fluid (Clif Dawson)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: make sure your tailwheel steering springs are secure.... |
I flew the Stinson SR-9C waay back when....late 60's/early 70's. It had no provision
for tail wheel steering. You could not even lock it. It was just a full
swivel caster on a big scale. Taxiing was the worst part in a cross wind you had
to ride the brake on the downwind side to keep it from making like a weather
vane. It was a friends plane who also owned a Beech D-17. I flew the Stinson
to fly-ins for him so he could show both planes. It is the most comfortable and
quiet airplane I ever flew. It had 1/4" glass not plexiglass I think was why
it was so quiet. It was not a very efficient plane.....125 mph and 14 gallons
an hour!!!
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
First flight June 16,2012
Started building July, 2009
21" wheels
Lycoming O-235 C2C
Jay Anderson CloudCars prop 76 X 44
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385236#385236
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/stinson_sr_9c_915.jpg
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Hey Gene,
I had to keep at least a 50/50 mix in my Ford during the winters. I once
cracked a block on a auto engine conversion project I had sitting in my
studio and it was a real bummer!
Don't risk it!
Douwe
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: make sure your tailwheel steering springs are |
secure....
Hi Jerry,
The gull wing Stinson is one=C2- of the most beautiful airplanes ever I t
hink. A local dentist in Redfield SD had one and I always loved seeing it.
Never had a ride in one unfortunately but maybe someday!
Thanks for the picture.
Jim B.
Message 4
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Subject: | official fish scales |
Am using water with water pump lube added, Zerex product from NAPA, per
Ken Perkins. I drain it when needed to protect from freezing.
I would also like to get in line for the official fish scales. I am
running a home carved propeller, copied from another, origin unknown. I
am interested to see how it compares.
Don Lane
Minnesott Beach NC
Message 5
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Cool.... Post a picture when you get a chance...!
Do not archive
--------
Jake Schultz - curator,
Newport Way Air Museum (OK, it's just my home)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385248#385248
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: radiator fluid |
In seeking answers about the Model-A I look to those who went before me and those
with experience. Those with experience would be the model-A clubs and their
presence is abundant on the web. Some of those who went before me are on this
list, some are not. Both camps advocate a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water
during the winter so thats set. During the summer, some advocate pure water
(distilled) and some the addition of WaterWetter to that distilled water. The
question is do you want the best, or whats adequate?
Depending on your flying and location, a 50/50 mix could work year round. I fly
in a low altitude and cool environment so Ill start by using the 50/50 mix and
if my temps stay where I want them, Ill use it year round if I lived in Colorado
or the deep south I might need to run a different seasonal mix. I like
the KISS methodology and like to use products that can be found easily from multiple
sources particularly if I plan on cross-country travel so I often ask
myself, could I find this at a country store. Water alone can be had anywhere.
Anti-freeze, just about. Redline WaterWetter, not so much.
Read http://www.rockymountainmodelaclub.org/Cooling_System_Fluids_v2007.pdf for a dissertation about cooling fluids for the Model-A and search other Model-A websites.
Another area for study will be engine oil. Ive found that newer oils are not best
for the Model-A due to lack of zinc (an anti-pollution move). If you use
oil with higher rating than SAE SF then adding ZDDPLUS will restore it to the
SF levels. Using plain 30wt HD oil will prevent you from having to add an additive
and can be found in automotive, hardware and even some grocery stores (so
it may pass my country store test).
Half the fun of running these old time engines is learning the folklore that goes
with them, but be wary of falling into the trap of needing the absolute best
or scientifically the best. The most eloquent solutions are dirt simple and
readily available.
Ill run a 50/50 mix and watch my temps. If I find myself in the southwest desert
in a heat spell running high temps, I may drain it out and replace it with
pure water knowing Ill find antifreeze by winter.
Best of luck and enjoy the ride!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385253#385253
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: radiator fluid |
the 50/50 mix may well work for cars=2C but you might find yourself lifting
paint off of your aircraft or poisoning yourself or both as the aircraft a
pplication does leak from time to time. I think I'll stick with water and
drain it after running. Gene
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: radiator fluid
> From: billsayre@ymail.com
> Date: Sat=2C 13 Oct 2012 12:42:35 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>
>
> In seeking answers about the Model-A I look to those who went before me a
nd those with experience. Those with experience would be the model-A clubs
and their presence is abundant on the web. Some of those who went before
me are on this list=2C some are not. Both camps advocate a 50/50 mix of an
tifreeze and water during the winter so that=99s set. During the sum
mer=2C some advocate pure water (distilled) and some the addition of WaterW
etter to that distilled water. The question is do you want the best=2C or
what=99s adequate?
>
> Depending on your flying and location=2C a 50/50 mix could work year roun
d. I fly in a low altitude and cool environment so I=99ll start by u
sing the 50/50 mix and if my temps stay where I want them=2C I=99ll u
se it year round =93 if I lived in Colorado or the deep south I might
need to run a different seasonal mix. I like the KISS methodology and lik
e to use products that can be found easily from multiple sources particular
ly if I plan on cross-country travel so I often ask myself=2C could I find
this at a country store. Water alone can be had anywhere. Anti-freeze=2C
just about. Redline WaterWetter=2C not so much.
>
> Read http://www.rockymountainmodelaclub.org/Cooling_System_Fluids_v2007.p
df for a dissertation about cooling fluids for the Model-A and search other
Model-A websites.
>
> Another area for study will be engine oil. I=99ve found that newer
oils are not best for the Model-A due to lack of zinc (an anti-pollution m
ove). If you use oil with higher rating than SAE SF then adding ZDDPLUS wi
ll restore it to the SF levels. Using plain 30wt HD oil will prevent you f
rom having to add an additive and can be found in automotive=2C hardware an
d even some grocery stores (so it may pass my country store test).
>
> Half the fun of running these old time engines is learning the folklore t
hat goes with them=2C but be wary of falling into the trap of needing the a
bsolute best or scientifically the best. The most eloquent solutions are d
irt simple and readily available.
>
> I=99ll run a 50/50 mix and watch my temps. If I find myself in the
southwest desert in a heat spell running high temps=2C I may drain it out
and replace it with pure water knowing I=99ll find antifreeze by wint
er.
>
> Best of luck and enjoy the ride!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385253#385253
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: radiator fluid |
I did have leaks on the first run especially - loose clamps that hadn't set in
with the heat et cetera, but I didn't lose any paint (Latex) and I only have an
occasional facial twitch so far.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385257#385257
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: radiator fluid |
I have to reply to this one tho I am not a rariator man except in my car. A few
years ago I picked up a piece of metal and sliced my fuel tank abt 4 inches.
pouring out fuel I made it to a RV repair shop 2 miles away. They could not fix
it but suggested I rub a bar of soap on the crack which I did and drove the car
for a month before replacing the tank. I t did not leak. Another suggestion was
if you had a radiator leak you should pour a cup of EGG white in and it would
seal it. HAVE NOT HAD TO USE THAT ONE.
cHEERS, Gardiner Mason
----- Original Message ----
From: BYD <billsayre@ymail.com>
Sent: Sat, October 13, 2012 3:43:27 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: radiator fluid
In seeking answers about the Model-A I look to those who went before me and
those with experience. Those with experience would be the model-A clubs and
their presence is abundant on the web. Some of those who went before me are on
this list, some are not. Both camps advocate a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and
water during the winter so thats set. During the summer, some advocate pure
water (distilled) and some the addition of WaterWetter to that distilled water.
The question is do you want the best, or whats adequate?
Depending on your flying and location, a 50/50 mix could work year round. I fly
in a low altitude and cool environment so Ill start by using the 50/50 mix
and if my temps stay where I want them, Ill use it year round if I lived
in Colorado or the deep south I might need to run a different seasonal mix. I
like the KISS methodology and like to use products that can be found easily from
multiple sources particularly if I plan on cross-country travel so I often ask
myself, could I find this at a country store. Water alone can be had anywhere.
Anti-freeze, just about. Redline WaterWetter, not so much.
Read http://www.rockymountainmodelaclub.org/Cooling_System_Fluids_v2007.pdf for
a dissertation about cooling fluids for the Model-A and search other Model-A
websites.
Another area for study will be engine oil. Ive found that newer oils are not
best for the Model-A due to lack of zinc (an anti-pollution move). If you use
oil with higher rating than SAE SF then adding ZDDPLUS will restore it to the SF
levels. Using plain 30wt HD oil will prevent you from having to add an additive
and can be found in automotive, hardware and even some grocery stores (so it may
pass my country store test).
Half the fun of running these old time engines is learning the folklore that
goes with them, but be wary of falling into the trap of needing the absolute
best or scientifically the best. The most eloquent solutions are dirt simple
and readily available.
Ill run a 50/50 mix and watch my temps. If I find myself in the southwest
desert in a heat spell running high temps, I may drain it out and replace it
with pure water knowing Ill find antifreeze by winter.
Best of luck and enjoy the ride!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385253#385253
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Tubing Coping |
Soooo... I'm reading through the notes page for the Tube Coping Calculator I posted
at the beginning of this thread... you know how it goes... open package,
play with new tool and THEN read instructions.
Anyhow... it clearly states right in the notes that, "specifying the tube's wall
thickness makes the cut fit to the inside diameter of the tube, which makes
it easier to fit, and makes a nice notch for welding." Perhaps THIS is the reason
I had good success with my first attempt? LOL!
I still visualize a nicely contoured notch with flush fitting edges that are tapered
to the mating tube, which would mean that the ID and OD would be considered,
but I can see where in my current application (landing gear), where heavy
walled tube is going to be welded, the ID and notched edge is preferred.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage and Fuse framed up - Working on Landing Gear
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385261#385261
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Subject: | Re: make sure your tailwheel steering springs are secure.... |
Good reminder Mike.
After losing a tailwheel spring on my GN-1 the day I bought it, I
thought it was a good idea to secure the springs. Now I keep them
safety wired where the spring can't just pop off when there is no
tension. I haven't had one come loose in ~8 years.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
From: Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[Vantage Partners, LLC]
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:39 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: make sure your tailwheel steering springs are
secure....
We lost a spring on our Champ tailwheel steering years ago and almost
groundlooped.
Here's a scary result of losing a spring on landing.
Make sure those things won't pop off. Even if they do you can still
control directionally
with prop blasts over the rudder.
Mike C.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGOwcnGts4s&feature=related
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: radiator fluid |
I've used pepper many times in car and truck
rads. Strange how these things happen after
your vehicle travels a few hundred thousand
miles. :-)
Another trick is to use your lady's nylons to
replace a broken fan belt. I wonder if Waldo
ever had occasion to use that one on his
Hisso.
Clif
The Early Bird may get the worm but the second
mouse gets the cheese.
> I have to reply to this one tho I am not a rariator man except in my car..
> Another suggestion was
> if you had a radiator leak you should pour a cup of EGG white in and it
> would
> seal it. HAVE NOT HAD TO USE THAT ONE.
> cHEERS, Gardiner Mason
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