Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Sun 12/09/12


Total Messages Posted: 31



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 09:00 AM - Varnish Question (Jack)
     2. 09:28 AM - Re: Varnish Question (Gary Boothe)
     3. 09:38 AM - Re: Varnish Question (C N Campbell)
     4. 09:55 AM - Fw: Speaking of planes for sale (ken anderson)
     5. 09:57 AM - Re: Varnish Question (Jack)
     6. 10:06 AM - Re: Varnish Question (Gary Boothe)
     7. 10:08 AM - Re: Varnish Question ()
     8. 10:23 AM - buying a hangar (Oscar Zuniga)
     9. 10:23 AM - Re: Varnish Question (Jack)
    10. 11:28 AM - Re: Varnish Question (tools)
    11. 12:21 PM - Re: Re: Varnish Question (Gary Boothe)
    12. 12:39 PM - Re: Re: Varnish Question (Gene Rambo)
    13. 01:10 PM - Re: Re: Varnish Question ()
    14. 01:17 PM - Re: Re: Varnish Question (Gary Boothe)
    15. 01:35 PM - First flight of Don Harpers new Pietenpol (Barnwell Regional Airport)
    16. 01:43 PM - Re: Re: Varnish Question (Gene Rambo)
    17. 01:46 PM - Re: First flight of Don Harpers new Pietenpol (helspersew@aol.com)
    18. 02:50 PM - Re: First flight of Don Harpers new Pietenpol (Gardiner)
    19. 04:01 PM - hand propping (taildrags)
    20. 04:47 PM - Re: hand propping (Gene Rambo)
    21. 05:03 PM - RV Tail Wheel Design (FandS_Piet)
    22. 05:11 PM - Re: hand propping (Jack)
    23. 05:13 PM - Re: Varnish Question (Don Emch)
    24. 05:43 PM - Re: Varnish Question (Rick Schreiber)
    25. 07:42 PM - Re: hand propping (Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB)
    26. 08:11 PM - Re: hand propping (taildrags)
    27. 08:21 PM - Re: Re: hand propping (Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB)
    28. 08:34 PM - Re: hand propping (Andre Abreu)
    29. 08:40 PM - Re: Re: hand propping (Andre Abreu)
    30. 09:06 PM - Re: Re: hand propping (Ryan Mueller)
    31. 09:57 PM - Re: hand propping (taildrags)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 09:00:36 AM PST US
    Subject: Varnish Question
    From: Jack <jack@textors.com>
    I have been spraying some interior parts, thinned 10% with very good success. The last coat sprayed yesterday has a fog look under the surface. The only difference from other times were, A bit cooler, 60 degrees and a new can of varnish. Any ideas? The new can of varnish looks clear. Sent from my iPad Jack Textor


    Message 2


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    Time: 09:28:26 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    High humidity and too thick of an application. It's purely cosmetic, but next time either thin more, or use a fast drying solvent like acetone. Gary NX308MB Sent from my iPhone On Dec 9, 2012, at 9:00 AM, Jack <jack@textors.com> wrote: > > I have been spraying some interior parts, thinned 10% with very good success. The last coat sprayed yesterday has a fog look under the surface. The only difference from other times were, A bit cooler, 60 degrees and a new can of varnish. Any ideas? The new can of varnish looks clear. > > Sent from my iPad > Jack Textor > > > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:38:30 AM PST US
    From: "C N Campbell" <cncampbell@windstream.net>
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    Jack, I'm certainly not an expert but the foggy look might come from moisture. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack" <jack@textors.com> Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2012 12:00 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Varnish Question > > I have been spraying some interior parts, thinned 10% with very good > success. The last coat sprayed yesterday has a fog look under the surface. > The only difference from other times were, A bit cooler, 60 degrees and a > new can of varnish. Any ideas? The new can of varnish looks clear. > > Sent from my iPad > Jack Textor > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:55:21 AM PST US
    Subject: Fwd: Speaking of planes for sale
    From: ken anderson <kanderson051@gmail.com>
    Forwarding this on someone may be interested. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: "earhart500" <earhart500@aol.com> Subject: Fwd: Speaking of planes for sale Jeff, your wish is my command! :~) Everyone, please feel free to pass this along to your own flying lists and clubs, too. (Eve? Dave?) Have a good weekend, everyone! Diane Diane Earhart "*A mile of road will take you a mile, * *but a mile of runway will take you anywhere*" (Quote stolen from Jeff Wilson who stole it from someone else.) -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Wilson <jlwilsonnn@yahoo.com> Sent: Sat, Dec 8, 2012 9:32 am Subject: Speaking of planes for sale Hi Diane, Before I post this on Barnstormers, I wonder if you would send this through your vast network of email contacts for me. I would like to let everyone locally know about it first. Do you have any contacts for Chapter 32? I used to be a member with them a long time ago. Would like to let them all know too. I have a pristine Continental A-65-8A for sale. 200 hours since major. Chrome cylinders, chrome valve covers, new wiring harness, full intake, carb and exhaust with carb heat and cabin heat muffs. Mounted on included engine stand. Includes extras, package of new valve cover gaskets and a bag full of new copper plug gaskets. No data plate. Mount and fly. $3500 firm. Jeff Wilson 314-974-4589 jlwilsonnn@yahoo.com Sent from my iPhone Sent from my iPhone


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:57:45 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    From: Jack <jack@textors.com>
    Have never tried acetone, 10 % work with it too? Sent from my iPad Jack Textor On Dec 9, 2012, at 11:28 AM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote: > > High humidity and too thick of an application. It's purely cosmetic, but next time either thin more, or use a fast drying solvent like acetone. > > Gary > NX308MB > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 9, 2012, at 9:00 AM, Jack <jack@textors.com> wrote: > >> >> I have been spraying some interior parts, thinned 10% with very good success. The last coat sprayed yesterday has a fog look under the surface. The only difference from other times were, A bit cooler, 60 degrees and a new can of varnish. Any ideas? The new can of varnish looks clear. >> >> Sent from my iPad >> Jack Textor > > > > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:06:20 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    Sure. Solvent amounts would be the same, just that some dry quicker. In summer you might drop back to thinner. BTW - without sanding the cloudy varnish off, there is nothing to be done for it. Gary Sent from my iPhone On Dec 9, 2012, at 9:56 AM, Jack <jack@textors.com> wrote: > > Have never tried acetone, 10 % work with it too? > > Sent from my iPad > Jack Textor > > On Dec 9, 2012, at 11:28 AM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote: > >> >> High humidity and too thick of an application. It's purely cosmetic, but next time either thin more, or use a fast drying solvent like acetone. >> >> Gary >> NX308MB >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Dec 9, 2012, at 9:00 AM, Jack <jack@textors.com> wrote: >> >>> >>> I have been spraying some interior parts, thinned 10% with very good success. The last coat sprayed yesterday has a fog look under the surface. The only difference from other times were, A bit cooler, 60 degrees and a new can of varnish. Any ideas? The new can of varnish looks clear. >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> Jack Textor > > > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:08:15 AM PST US
    From: <don.h@wcoil.com>
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    I think you mean a slow drying thinner so the water can get away before the paint drys it called blushing a painters night mear -----Original Message----- From: Gary Boothe Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2012 12:28 PM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Varnish Question High humidity and too thick of an application. It's purely cosmetic, but next time either thin more, or use a fast drying solvent like acetone. Gary NX308MB Sent from my iPhone On Dec 9, 2012, at 9:00 AM, Jack <jack@textors.com> wrote: > > I have been spraying some interior parts, thinned 10% with very good > success. The last coat sprayed yesterday has a fog look under the surface. > The only difference from other times were, A bit cooler, 60 degrees and a > new can of varnish. Any ideas? The new can of varnish looks clear. > > Sent from my iPad > Jack Textor > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:23:02 AM PST US
    From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>
    Subject: buying a hangar
    The matter of condensation on the underside of your metal hangar roof shoul d not be taken too lightly. When I was making repairs to my fuselage after the nose-over=2C the wings remained stored in a hangar in Zapata=2C TX and were there for many months. The underside of the hangar roof was somewhat corroded=2C so the condensation dripping down from the roof was not just c lear "dew". The upper surfaces of Scout's wings bear permanently discolore d stains from the drips (along with some bat droppings). Oscar Zuniga Medford=2C OR Air Camper NX41CC "Scout" A75 power


    Message 9


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    Time: 10:23:55 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    From: Jack <jack@textors.com>
    Oh good more sanding! Sent from my iPad Jack Textor On Dec 9, 2012, at 12:05 PM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote: > > Sure. Solvent amounts would be the same, just that some dry quicker. In summer you might drop back to thinner. BTW - without sanding the cloudy varnish off, there is nothing to be done for it. > > Gary > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 9, 2012, at 9:56 AM, Jack <jack@textors.com> wrote: > >> >> Have never tried acetone, 10 % work with it too? >> >> Sent from my iPad >> Jack Textor >> >> On Dec 9, 2012, at 11:28 AM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote: >> >>> >>> High humidity and too thick of an application. It's purely cosmetic, but next time either thin more, or use a fast drying solvent like acetone. >>> >>> Gary >>> NX308MB >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Dec 9, 2012, at 9:00 AM, Jack <jack@textors.com> wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> I have been spraying some interior parts, thinned 10% with very good success. The last coat sprayed yesterday has a fog look under the surface. The only difference from other times were, A bit cooler, 60 degrees and a new can of varnish. Any ideas? The new can of varnish looks clear. >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPad >>>> Jack Textor > > > > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 11:28:22 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    From: "tools" <n0kkj@yahoo.com>
    I think Don is right, if you're finish is blushing, you want to use a retardant. A fast drying thinner tends to cool more (latent heat of vaporization), which causes the condensation that shows up as that foggy milky appearance. On finishes you can redissolve (lacquers, dope, etc) you can eliminate it sometimes on subsequent applications, but on varnish, it's there to stay unless removed abrasively. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390105#390105


    Message 11


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    Time: 12:21:14 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    This is not a physics problem...it's a chemistry problem! If the varnish is too soft (un-dried) as it comes into contact with excessive moisture, the surface curing agents react negatively with the moisture. In cool and/or humid conditions, it's important to speed up the cure, by using fast drying thinners. Gary Sent from my iPhone On Dec 9, 2012, at 11:27 AM, "tools" <n0kkj@yahoo.com> wrote: > > I think Don is right, if you're finish is blushing, you want to use a retardant. A fast drying thinner tends to cool more (latent heat of vaporization), which causes the condensation that shows up as that foggy milky appearance. > > On finishes you can redissolve (lacquers, dope, etc) you can eliminate it sometimes on subsequent applications, but on varnish, it's there to stay unless removed abrasively. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390105#390105 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 12:39:47 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    From: Gene Rambo <generambo@msn.com>
    C'mon Gary, blushing is blushing. Fast evaporation lowers the temperature to the dew point and moisture draws out of atmosphere. Best way to avoid is wait for a better day, followed by raise the temperature or slow the evaporation. Gene On Dec 9, 2012, at 3:20 PM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote: > > This is not a physics problem...it's a chemistry problem! If the varnish is too soft (un-dried) as it comes into contact with excessive moisture, the surface curing agents react negatively with the moisture. In cool and/or humid conditions, it's important to speed up the cure, by using fast drying thinners. > > Gary > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 9, 2012, at 11:27 AM, "tools" <n0kkj@yahoo.com> wrote: > >> >> I think Don is right, if you're finish is blushing, you want to use a retardant. A fast drying thinner tends to cool more (latent heat of vaporization), which causes the condensation that shows up as that foggy milky appearance. >> >> On finishes you can redissolve (lacquers, dope, etc) you can eliminate it sometimes on subsequent applications, but on varnish, it's there to stay unless removed abrasively. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390105#390105 > > > > > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 01:10:09 PM PST US
    From: <don.h@wcoil.com>
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    Sorry dont want to get anybodys jammies in a knot! But when I rebuilt my t-craft I got blushin and the paint man at where I bnought my paint said use RETARDENT thinner I wound up using almost 50 % till it worked -----Original Message----- From: tools Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2012 2:27 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Varnish Question I think Don is right, if you're finish is blushing, you want to use a retardant. A fast drying thinner tends to cool more (latent heat of vaporization), which causes the condensation that shows up as that foggy milky appearance. On finishes you can redissolve (lacquers, dope, etc) you can eliminate it sometimes on subsequent applications, but on varnish, it's there to stay unless removed abrasively. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390105#390105


    Message 14


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    Time: 01:17:23 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net>
    I stand corrected. Coming from California, humidity is something we read about. Still, when painting my cowling last spring, and dealing with paint issues, I was advised to use a slower thinner on warm days...solved my issues. Gary Sent from my iPhone On Dec 9, 2012, at 1:09 PM, <don.h@wcoil.com> wrote: > > Sorry dont want to get anybodys jammies in a knot! But when I rebuilt my t-craft I got blushin and the paint man at where I bnought my paint said use RETARDENT thinner I wound up using almost 50 % till it worked > > -----Original Message----- From: tools > Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2012 2:27 PM > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Varnish Question > > > I think Don is right, if you're finish is blushing, you want to use a retardant. A fast drying thinner tends to cool more (latent heat of vaporization), which causes the condensation that shows up as that foggy milky appearance. > > On finishes you can redissolve (lacquers, dope, etc) you can eliminate it sometimes on subsequent applications, but on varnish, it's there to stay unless removed abrasively. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390105#390105 > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 15


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    Time: 01:35:33 PM PST US
    From: "Barnwell Regional Airport" <barnwellairport@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: First flight of Don Harpers new Pietenpol
    Pietenpolers, Yesterday, Don Harpers new Pietenpol went for it's first flight. After two circuits of the airport, several of the engine instruments were not reading correctly, the plane was landed and the problems will be corrected before the next flight. More information to follow as flight testing continues.


    Message 16


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    Time: 01:43:32 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    From: Gene Rambo <generambo@msn.com>
    That's right Gary....slower thinner. :) Gene On Dec 9, 2012, at 4:17 PM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote: > > I stand corrected. Coming from California, humidity is something we read about. Still, when painting my cowling last spring, and dealing with paint issues, I was advised to use a slower thinner on warm days...solved my issues. > > Gary > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 9, 2012, at 1:09 PM, <don.h@wcoil.com> wrote: > >> >> Sorry dont want to get anybodys jammies in a knot! But when I rebuilt my t-craft I got blushin and the paint man at where I bnought my paint said use RETARDENT thinner I wound up using almost 50 % till it worked >> >> -----Original Message----- From: tools >> Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2012 2:27 PM >> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Varnish Question >> >> >> I think Don is right, if you're finish is blushing, you want to use a retardant. A fast drying thinner tends to cool more (latent heat of vaporization), which causes the condensation that shows up as that foggy milky appearance. >> >> On finishes you can redissolve (lacquers, dope, etc) you can eliminate it sometimes on subsequent applications, but on varnish, it's there to stay unless removed abrasively. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390105#390105 > > > > > >


    Message 17


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    Time: 01:46:14 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: First flight of Don Harpers new Pietenpol
    From: helspersew@aol.com
    NICE! Congratulations to Don. Can't wait to hear the head-to-head results w ith P.F.'s machine. Dan Helsper Puryear, TN -----Original Message----- From: Barnwell Regional Airport <barnwellairport@bellsouth.net> Sent: Sun, Dec 9, 2012 3:36 pm Subject: Pietenpol-List: First flight of Don Harpers new Pietenpol Pietenpolers, Yesterday, Don Harpers new Pietenpol went for it's first flight. After two circuits of the airport, several of the engine instruments were n ot reading correctly, the plane was landed and the problems will be correct ed before the next flight. More information to follow as flight testing continues.


    Message 18


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    Time: 02:50:57 PM PST US
    From: Gardiner <airlion2@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: First flight of Don Harpers new Pietenpol
    On 12/9/2012 4:46 PM, helspersew@aol.com wrote: > NICE! Congratulations to Don. Can't wait to hear the head-to-head > results with P.F.'s machine. Dan , do you have Don Harper's email address? Thanks, Gardiner. Also PF,s > Dan Helsper > Puryear, TN > -----Original Message----- > From: Barnwell Regional Airport <barnwellairport@bellsouth.net> > To: pietenpol-list <pietenpol-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Sun, Dec 9, 2012 3:36 pm > Subject: Pietenpol-List: First flight of Don Harpers new Pietenpol > > Pietenpolers, > Yesterday, Don Harpers new Pietenpol went for it's first flight. > After two circuits of the airport, several of the engine instruments > were not reading correctly, the plane was landed and the problems will > be corrected before the next flight. > More information to follow as flight testing continues. > > * > > > *


    Message 19


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    Time: 04:01:58 PM PST US
    Subject: hand propping
    From: "taildrags" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
    There is nothing important in the following email... I'm just discouraged and wanted to vent ;o) Some days you're the dog, other days you're the fire hydrant and I guess today I was the hydrant. After spending the afternoon Saturday washing and cleaning up the fuselage on my airplane (wings were done last weekend but not mounted back on the airplane yet), I was anxious to fire up the engine for the first time in Oregon. It didn't happen. I checked everyplace that water from the wash job might be involved, but everything was bone-dry and looked good. I went through every starting drill that I know, checked everything I knew to check, and not a pop from my A75. Pulled the lower plugs and they looked clean, but a slight bit damp (no surprise, after all the pulling that I did). Ran the flooded engine routine, still no joy. Arms and shoulders finally cried "Uncle" as the airplane wore out its starter. I untied the tail and put 'er away. I'll try again next weekend. do not archive -------- Oscar Zuniga Medford, OR Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; A75 power Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390119#390119


    Message 20


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    Time: 04:47:34 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: hand propping
    From: Gene Rambo <generambo@msn.com>
    Ummmmm.... the switch was on, right?? Gene On Dec 9, 2012, at 7:01 PM, "taildrags" <taildrags@hotmail.com> wrote: > > There is nothing important in the following email... I'm just discouraged and wanted to vent ;o) Some days you're the dog, other days you're the fire hydrant and I guess today I was the hydrant. > > After spending the afternoon Saturday washing and cleaning up the fuselage on my airplane (wings were done last weekend but not mounted back on the airplane yet), I was anxious to fire up the engine for the first time in Oregon. It didn't happen. I checked everyplace that water from the wash job might be involved, but everything was bone-dry and looked good. I went through every starting drill that I know, checked everything I knew to check, and not a pop from my A75. Pulled the lower plugs and they looked clean, but a slight bit damp (no surprise, after all the pulling that I did). > Ran the flooded engine routine, still no joy. Arms and shoulders finally cried "Uncle" as the airplane wore out its starter. I untied the tail and put 'er away. I'll try again next weekend. > > do not archive > > -------- > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, OR > Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; > A75 power > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390119#390119 > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 21


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    Time: 05:03:59 PM PST US
    Subject: RV Tail Wheel Design
    From: "FandS_Piet" <fkim79@gmail.com>
    Attached are a couple pictures of our finished tail wheel. Originally I bought a Matco wheel because dad and I both wanted to have a steerable tail wheel that also has a break free mechanism, but we also wanted more to go with the original design. I returned the Matco and we purchased an RV setup from Vans for a reasonable 140.00. After a few small modifications we now have what we see as the best of both worlds. A steerable tail wheel with a break free mechanism that is built from the plans. It is a very simple modification (I am speaking for my father because he "designed the modification" if that makes sense, while I was and still am busy with the birth of my son). Anyway if anybody is interested in this idea we have part numbers from Vans and Dad made a drawings of the modifications that need to be made. P.S. Has anybody heard from Chris Tracy? We have been trying to reach him to see if he would want to post our pictures to his website? -------- Fred Kim Pittsburgh, Pa Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390122#390122 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/imag0331_166.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/imag0330_127.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/imag0329_190.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/imag0328_108.jpg


    Message 22


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    Time: 05:11:29 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: hand propping
    From: Jack <jack@textors.com>
    Hang in there Oscar. I messed up my varnish and burnt up a bunch of 4130 doing my brake pedals, which looked like fidos butt a couple of times. Some days are like that. Sent from my iPad Jack Textor On Dec 9, 2012, at 6:01 PM, "taildrags" <taildrags@hotmail.com> wrote: > > There is nothing important in the following email... I'm just discouraged and wanted to vent ;o) Some days you're the dog, other days you're the fire hydrant and I guess today I was the hydrant. > > After spending the afternoon Saturday washing and cleaning up the fuselage on my airplane (wings were done last weekend but not mounted back on the airplane yet), I was anxious to fire up the engine for the first time in Oregon. It didn't happen. I checked everyplace that water from the wash job might be involved, but everything was bone-dry and looked good. I went through every starting drill that I know, checked everything I knew to check, and not a pop from my A75. Pulled the lower plugs and they looked clean, but a slight bit damp (no surprise, after all the pulling that I did). > Ran the flooded engine routine, still no joy. Arms and shoulders finally cried "Uncle" as the airplane wore out its starter. I untied the tail and put 'er away. I'll try again next weekend. > > do not archive > > -------- > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, OR > Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; > A75 power > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390119#390119 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 23


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    Time: 05:13:44 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    From: "Don Emch" <EmchAir@aol.com>
    Gene is right on. You can get it whether it is cool or hot. The closer the temperature is to the dewpoint, the quicker it will blush. It's when the temperature and dewpoint spread is close together when you get the most trouble. If the temperature was 60 degrees and you got it, most likely the dewpoint was not far below. If you could heat it up in the room it would be better. There have been days where I've tried to paint and it was a great temperature, maybe mid seventies, and I got blushing. If I heated my shop into the 90's I could get away from the blushing. Don Emch NX899DE Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390123#390123


    Message 24


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    Time: 05:43:45 PM PST US
    From: Rick Schreiber <lmforge@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Varnish Question
    On 12/9/2012 11:00 AM, Jack wrote: > > I have been spraying some interior parts, thinned 10% with very good success. The last coat sprayed yesterday has a fog look under the surface. The only difference from other times were, A bit cooler, 60 degrees and a new can of varnish. Any ideas? The new can of varnish looks clear. > > Sent from my iPad > Jack Textor > Jack, A couple of points I would like to add. When thinning varnishes mineral spirits is the typical reducer. With the current regs most mineral spirits that you get at the big box stores is the odorless type. Without getting too technical that means that the aromatic hydrocarbons( relatives of xylene and toluene) have been removed. This lowers the solvency of the thinner drastically. Depending on the varnish and the solvent blend it was made with, this can cause problems with keeping the varnish in solution. Even more so as the temperature of the varnish is reduced. As the varnish starts to come out of solution it will cloud up. I would only use aliphatic solvents (mineral spirits and VM & P naphtha) and aromatic solvents (Xylene and toluene) as thinners for varnish. Lacquer thinner, Acetone, alcohols ect are not good to use. I would recommend the following reducers.... 85% odorless mineral spirits 15% xylene for hot days . 85% odorless mineral spirits and 15% toluene for cool days. I would also check your air/oil trap on your compressor. Make absolutely sure there is no trapped water in the trap or in your lines. Good luck. If you would like to contact me off line email me at lmforge@earthlink.net Rick Schreiber Valparaiso IN


    Message 25


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    Time: 07:42:17 PM PST US
    From: "Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil>
    Subject: Re: hand propping
    When the starter motor is overheated it is time to step away. My buds 65HP Champ got really hard to start, so he put new mags on. During the process of putting the new mags on and timing them, we had too much help. we could not get it to even pop. My bud waited until we had less help. We started over by pulling all the wires and timing the mags per the book. The with the directions and less help, it went together quickly and started the first pull. Today it starts very easy. We smile every time we spin the prop and it starts. Step back start with the basics, Does it have air? does it have fuel, how about compression? Does the spark, spark at the right time. If so it should start. Then again it may just be Scout paying you back for being ignored. Blue Skies, Steve D PS Scout may simply be mad at moving to the great white North. If so you can box her up and ship her to me. I will care for her, no charge. It is the least I could do. ----- Original Message ----- From: taildrags <taildrags@hotmail.com> Subject: Pietenpol-List: hand propping > > There is nothing important in the following email... I'm just discouraged and wanted to vent ;o) Some days you're the dog, other days you're > the fire hydrant and I guess today I was the hydrant. > > After spending the afternoon Saturday washing and cleaning up the > fuselage on my airplane (wings were done last weekend but not > mounted back on the airplane yet), I was anxious to fire up the > engine for the first time in Oregon. It didn't happen. I checked > everyplace that water from the wash job might be involved, but > everything was bone-dry and looked good. I went through every > starting drill that I know, checked everything I knew to check, and > not a pop from my A75. Pulled the lower plugs and they looked > clean, but a slight bit damp (no surprise, after all the pulling > that I did). > Ran the flooded engine routine, still no joy. Arms and shoulders > finally cried "Uncle" as the airplane wore out its starter. I > untied the tail and put 'er away. I'll try again next weekend. > > do not archive > > -------- > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, OR > Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; > A75 power > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390119#390119 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 26


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    Time: 08:11:35 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: hand propping
    From: "taildrags" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
    First, let's eliminate spark. Yes, the ignition switch was on 'both' when starting attempts were made. I had to keep going back and forth from the nose to the cockpit as I would try different things, and anytime the prop required repositioning, I would kill the mags. The mags are new Slicks with new harnesses, impulse couplings on both, and as I said, the plugs looked just the right color. I did not gap them though. Now let's talk fuel. Of course I drained samples from the gascolator several times after washing the airplane since the "bent rod and cork" fuel level system requires that there be an open hole in the fuel cap, and another right next to it for a vent. I drained a very, very small amount of water from the gascolator on the first check and none thereafter. I also drained a bit of fuel into a plastic tote (to fuel up the Triumph), so it was flowing well and should be clean. Fuel valve was on when starting attempts were made. Last item is air. I must admit that I didn't pull the air filter to check for obstructions, but I should do that since it's about due for a good cleaning and re-oiling after the dusty time it just had in Texas. I'll have to admit that the mixture may have been running rich if the filter is obstructed. I'll give it some more attempts before I give up and ship the machine back to Texas. It always started easily down there ;o) -------- Oscar Zuniga Medford, OR Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; A75 power Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390130#390130


    Message 27


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    Time: 08:21:01 PM PST US
    From: "Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil>
    Subject: Re: hand propping
    Perhaps the starter is the problem. I say just quit trying and ship the thing home! Blue Skies, Steve BTW it was almost 80 degrees today and muggy ----- Original Message ----- From: taildrags <taildrags@hotmail.com> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: hand propping > > First, let's eliminate spark. Yes, the ignition switch was on 'both' when starting attempts were made. I had to keep going back and forth > from the nose to the cockpit as I would try different things, and > anytime the prop required repositioning, I would kill the mags. > The mags are new Slicks with new harnesses, impulse couplings on > both, and as I said, the plugs looked just the right color. I did > not gap them though. > > Now let's talk fuel. Of course I drained samples from the > gascolator several times after washing the airplane since the "bent > rod and cork" fuel level system requires that there be an open hole > in the fuel cap, and another right next to it for a vent. I > drained a very, very small amount of water from the gascolator on > the first check and none thereafter. I also drained a bit of fuel > into a plastic tote (to fuel up the Triumph), so it was flowing > well and should be clean. Fuel valve was on when starting attempts > were made. > > Last item is air. I must admit that I didn't pull the air filter > to check for obstructions, but I should do that since it's about > due for a good cleaning and re-oiling after the dusty time it just > had in Texas. I'll have to admit that the mixture may have been > running rich if the filter is obstructed. > > I'll give it some more attempts before I give up and ship the > machine back to Texas. It always started easily down there ;o) > > -------- > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, OR > Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; > A75 power > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390130#390130 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 28


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    Time: 08:34:12 PM PST US
    From: Andre Abreu <andre_abreu_2000@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: hand propping
    A65 is normally very easy to start. Other times, not so easy. Throttle closed, stick back, brakes set, mags off.- Turn the prop through a few times , and then impulse mags on.- It usually starts on the first or second pull. Sometimes the mixture is too rich or I suspect it's flooded. In those cases, I'll try a few things. --Turn the prop backwards with the mags off and throttle full open... then try starting it again.- This helps if you think you've flooded it. --if that doesn't work, I'll turn the fuel valve to the off position, throt tle closed, mags hot and I hit the prop until it finds just the right ratio .- Fuel valve back on as soon as it starts. If it's real cold outside, I'll preheat the hangar and quickly bring the Pi et out of the hangar and start the engine.- Carb heat helps too.- Somet imes have to restart the engine several times until the engine warms up. I often find myself trying to start the Piet solo.- Nobody seems to know about hand propping.- So, as is often the case... stick back using the se at belt, tail tied with no slack down, brakes set.- While holding onto th e cabane with my left hand and left foot under the right tire, I start the engine from behind the prop.- With the engine started and oil pressure co ming up and starting to run smooth, I untie the tail.- When I'm ready to climb in, I turn off the fuel valve.- Then carefully climb into the cockp it, careful not to hit the throttle with my knee.- When I sit down, I tur n the fuel valve back on. Hot starts, I apply a little throttle.- Never had a problem starting hot. - Just be quick to pull the throttle after it start.. which is a challeng e when you're all by yourself. - Fun fun. Andy Abreu N6186L --- On Sun, 12/9/12, Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB <steven.d.dortch@us.a rmy.mil> wrote: From: Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: hand propping teven.d.dortch@us.army.mil> When the starter motor is overheated it is time to step away. My buds 65HP Champ got really hard to start, so he put new mags on. During the process of putting the new mags on and timing them, we had too m uch help. we could not get it- to even pop. My bud waited until we had le ss help. We started over by pulling all the wires and timing the mags per t he book. The with the directions and less help, it went together quickly an d started the first pull. Today it starts very easy. We smile every time we spin the prop and it starts. Step back start with the basics, Does it have air? does it have fuel, how a bout compression? Does the spark, spark at the right time. If so it should start. Then again it may just be Scout paying you back for being ignored. Blue Skies, Steve D PS Scout may simply be mad at moving to the great white North. If so you ca n box her up and ship her to me. I will care for her, no charge. It is the least I could do. ----- Original Message ----- From: taildrags <taildrags@hotmail.com> Subject: Pietenpol-List: hand propping > > There is nothing important in the following email... I'm just discouraged and wanted to vent ;o)- Some days you're the dog, other days you're > the fire hydrant and I guess today I was the hydrant. > > After spending the afternoon Saturday washing and cleaning up the > fuselage on my airplane (wings were done last weekend but not > mounted back on the airplane yet), I was anxious to fire up the > engine for the first time in Oregon.- It didn't happen. I checked > everyplace that water from the wash job might be involved, but > everything was bone-dry and looked good.- I went through every > starting drill that I know, checked everything I knew to check, and > not a pop from my A75.- Pulled the lower plugs and they looked > clean, but a slight bit damp (no surprise, after all the pulling > that I did).- > Ran the flooded engine routine, still no joy.- Arms and shoulders > finally cried "Uncle" as the airplane wore out its starter.- I > untied the tail and put 'er away.- I'll try again next weekend. > > do not archive > > -------- > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, OR > Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; > A75 power > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390119#390119 > > > > > > > > > > le, List Admin.


    Message 29


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    Time: 08:40:57 PM PST US
    From: Andre Abreu <andre_abreu_2000@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: hand propping
    One last thing about fuel... I hate it when water gets in the system someho w. This will frustrate any attempts to start the engine. We use car gas. As a precaution, we use a Mr. Funnel to filter our fuel.- A. it filters the fuel of particles. B. it removes any water sold to you as fuel from the Sunoco. Andy Abreu N6186L --- On Sun, 12/9/12, taildrags <taildrags@hotmail.com> wrote: From: taildrags <taildrags@hotmail.com> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: hand propping First, let's eliminate spark.- Yes, the ignition switch was on 'both' whe n starting attempts were made.- I had to keep going back and forth from t he nose to the cockpit as I would try different things, and anytime the pro p required repositioning, I would kill the mags.- The mags are new Slicks with new harnesses, impulse couplings on both, and as I said, the plugs lo oked just the right color.- I did not gap them though. Now let's talk fuel.- Of course I drained samples from the gascolator sev eral times after washing the airplane since the "bent rod and cork" fuel le vel system requires that there be an open hole in the fuel cap, and another right next to it for a vent.- I drained a very, very small amount of wat er from the gascolator on the first check and none thereafter.- I also dr ained a bit of fuel into a plastic tote (to fuel up the Triumph), so it was flowing well and should be clean.- Fuel valve was on when starting attem pts were made. Last item is air.- I must admit that I didn't pull the air filter to chec k for obstructions, but I should do that since it's about due for a good cl eaning and re-oiling after the dusty time it just had in Texas.- I'll hav e to admit that the mixture may have been running rich if the filter is obs tructed. I'll give it some more attempts before I give up and ship the machine back to Texas.- It always started easily down there ;o) -------- Oscar Zuniga Medford, OR Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; A75 power Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390130#390130 le, List Admin.


    Message 30


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    Time: 09:06:23 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: hand propping
    From: Ryan Mueller <ryan@rmueller.org>
    But did you visually check for spark? If you did not, you did not eliminate spark. Disconnect all plug wires, remove a plug, connect its plug wire, and lay it on a head. With switch on, swing the prop and look for spark.... On Sun, Dec 9, 2012 at 10:11 PM, taildrags <taildrags@hotmail.com> wrote: > > First, let's eliminate spark. Yes, the ignition switch was on 'both' when > starting attempts were made. I had to keep going back and forth from the > nose to the cockpit as I would try different things, and anytime the prop > required repositioning, I would kill the mags. The mags are new Slicks > with new harnesses, impulse couplings on both, and as I said, the plugs > looked just the right color. I did not gap them though. > > Now let's talk fuel. Of course I drained samples from the gascolator > several times after washing the airplane since the "bent rod and cork" fuel > level system requires that there be an open hole in the fuel cap, and > another right next to it for a vent. I drained a very, very small amount > of water from the gascolator on the first check and none thereafter. I > also drained a bit of fuel into a plastic tote (to fuel up the Triumph), so > it was flowing well and should be clean. Fuel valve was on when starting > attempts were made. > > Last item is air. I must admit that I didn't pull the air filter to check > for obstructions, but I should do that since it's about due for a good > cleaning and re-oiling after the dusty time it just had in Texas. I'll > have to admit that the mixture may have been running rich if the filter is > obstructed. > > I'll give it some more attempts before I give up and ship the machine back > to Texas. It always started easily down there ;o) > > -------- > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, OR > Air Camper NX41CC "Scout" > A75 power > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390130#390130 > >


    Message 31


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    Time: 09:57:21 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: hand propping
    From: "taildrags" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
    Andy wrote: >Throttle closed, stick back, brakes set, mags off. >Turn the prop through a few times , and then impulse >mags on. It usually starts on the first or second pull. Yes, that is standard starting procedure and it usually works (Stromberg carb). >Sometimes the mixture is too rich or I suspect it's flooded. >In those cases, I'll try a few things. >--Turn the prop backwards with the mags off and throttle full open >then try starting it again. This helps if you think you've flooded it. It didn't help. I thought I might have flooded it, and tried that procedure. No joy. >--if that doesn't work, I'll turn the fuel valve to the off position, >throttle closed, mags hot and I hit the prop until it finds just the >right ratio. Fuel valve back on as soon as it starts. Tried that, too. I've done that a time or two when refueling, but that was usually a "hot start" situation. In any case, it didn't work today. >If it's real cold outside, I'll preheat the hangar No heat in my hangar. >Carb heat helps too. Applying carb heat does absolutely nothing until there is some heat for it to apply (exhaust has to be hot, which means the engine has to be running. I could not make it run today). >Sometimes have to restart the engine several times >until the engine warms up. I would have been happy with just *one* start, let alone restarting it several times ;o) >I often find myself trying to start the Piet solo. >Nobody seems to know about hand propping. I start my Piet solo about 99 times out of 100, and that's why today was so frustrating, because I thought that I knew and understood my engine and carb ;o) >With the engine started and oil pressure coming up and >starting to run smooth, I untie the tail. When I'm ready >to climb in, I turn off the fuel valve. Then carefully climb >into the cockpit, careful not to hit the throttle with my knee. >When I sit down, I turn the fuel valve back on. I have a very similar routine, believe me. When I get ready to climb into the cockpit, I raise the center section 'flop' with my head as I climb in, definitely watching out for the throttle (which I have bumped a time or two, and it makes your heart race). Thanks for commiserating with me, though. -------- Oscar Zuniga Medford, OR Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; A75 power Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390135#390135




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