Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:14 AM - Re: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no (Jack)
2. 05:29 AM - Re: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no (helspersew@aol.com)
3. 06:35 AM - Re: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no (Hans van der Voort)
4. 08:19 AM - Re: The Restorers, 10th Anniv. Edition (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[Vantage Partners, LLC])
5. 09:11 AM - Re: TIG Welder (scudrun)
6. 02:33 PM - Re: Re: TIG Welder (George Abernathy)
7. 04:11 PM - Re: TIG Welder (John Francis)
8. 04:24 PM - Re: Re: TIG Welder (helspersew@aol.com)
9. 04:54 PM - Re: Re: TIG Welder (George Abernathy)
10. 05:14 PM - Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates ()
11. 05:18 PM - Re: Re: TIG Welder (Bkemike)
12. 05:33 PM - Shoulder Harness (Ohbejoyful)
13. 05:59 PM - Re: Shoulder Harness (Mario Giacummo)
14. 06:11 PM - Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (Chris)
15. 06:32 PM - Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (tools)
16. 06:36 PM - Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (nightmare)
17. 06:51 PM - Re: Shoulder Harness (Chris)
18. 06:55 PM - Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (nightmare)
19. 07:04 PM - Re: Shoulder Harness (Mario Giacummo)
20. 07:26 PM - Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (tools)
21. 08:11 PM - Re: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no (Clif Dawson)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no |
Not sure where the plans call for covering. For the horns I would guess
being able to make sure they are secure is a good thing. Appreciate all the
comments!
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
helspersew@aol.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no
Uhhhh.....sorry to mention this, but when the plans are not followed, that's
when the unintended consequences start piling up. I learned this on many
occasions, such as when the position of my rear pit recessed foot step got
in the way of the normal path of the rudder cable. I had to put an extra
"crook" on the path of the cable, thus necessitating two extra pulleys to
rout around it all. Why not cover the bolts? The only reason one would have
to have access to those bolts is in the event of some damage, and in that
case the fabric would probably have to be removed anyway.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Dotson <jdotson@centurylink.net>
Sent: Mon, Feb 18, 2013 2:13 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no
<jdotson@centurylink.net>
Jack,
I didn't cover the bolts....it was a pain. I had to have the horns on
before
covering because of the braces welded to the horn and bolted to the wood
frame.
--------
Jerry Dotson
First flight June 16,2012
Flying in phase 2
Lycoming O-235 C2C
Jay Anderson CloudCars prop 76 X 44
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394510#394510
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Subject: | Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no |
I guess you are right Jack. The plans don't say specifically. I can't recal
l ever seeing the bolts uncovered, but then again I never looked for it. I
would think it would be evident on pre-flight inspection if the not had wor
ked loose. Not likely in my opinion. And the fabric/paint/glue might serve
to hold the nut on. If the concern is the difficulty in covering/fitting ar
ound the mounted horn, I can see what you mean. I cut a thin piece of manil
la cardboard to fit snugly around the horn at the base and glued it in plac
e. This served for a gluing surface for the fabric. Worked quite well.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack <jack@textors.com>
Sent: Tue, Feb 19, 2013 6:14 am
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no
Not sure where the plans call for coveringFor the horns I would gu
ess being able to make sure they are secure is a goodthing. Appreciate all
the comments!
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
t-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of helspersew@aol.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 20134:51 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re:Covering control horn bolts, yes or no
Uhhhh.....sorry to mention this, but whenthe plans are not followed, that's
when the unintended consequences startpiling up. I learned this on many oc
casions, such as when the position of myrear pit recessed foot step got in
the way of the normal path of the ruddercable. I had to put an extra "crook
" on the path of the cable, thusnecessitating two extra pulleys to rout aro
und it all. Why not cover the bolts?The only reason one would have to have
access to those bolts is in the event ofsome damage, and in that case the f
abric would probably have to be removedanyway.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----OriginalMessage-----
From: Jerry Dotson <jdotson@centurylink.net>
Sent: Mon, Feb 18, 2013 2:13 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no
et>
Jack,
I didn't cover the bolts....it was a pain. I had to have the horns on befo
re
covering because of the braces welded to the horn and bolted to the wood fr
ame.
--------
Jerry Dotson
First flight June 16,2012
Flying in phase 2
Lycoming O-235 C2C
Jay Anderson CloudCars prop 76 X 44
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394510#394510
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Subject: | Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no |
I covered all the bolts, 7 years and going they are not working themselves
loose.=0AWhy would they?=C2- They are=C2- secured by Nylock nuts. And a
re not in a rotating joint or even in a high vibration area.=0A=C2-=0AOne
recommendation I would have, is to paint them after assembly and before co
vering.=0AThey are cadmium plated, but tool marks might expose some bare me
tal and=C2-rust stains under the covering might get ugly . =0A=C2-=0AJu
st my 2c=0A=C2-=0AHans=0ANX15KV=0AWaller, TX =0A=0A______________________
__________=0A From: Jack <jack@textors.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matronics.
com =0ASent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 6:13 AM=0ASubject: RE: Pietenpol-Li
st: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no=0A =0A=0A =0ANot sure where
the plans call for covering=0AFor the horns I would guess being a
ble to make sure they are secure is a good=0Athing. Appreciate all the comm
ents! =0A=C2- =0AJack Textor=0ADes Moines, IA =0A=C2- =0A=0A__________
______________________=0A =0AFrom:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.co
m [mailto: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com ] On Behalf Of helsper
sew@aol.com=0ASent: Monday, February 18, 2013=0A4:51 PM=0ATo: pietenpol-lis
t@matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re:=0ACovering control horn
bolts, yes or no =0A=C2- =0AUhhhh.....sorry to mention this, but when=0A
the plans are not followed, that's when the unintended consequences start
=0Apiling up. I learned this on many occasions, such as when the position o
f my=0Arear pit recessed foot step got in the way of the normal path of the
rudder=0Acable. I had to put an extra "crook" on the path of the cable, th
us=0Anecessitating two extra pulleys to rout around it all. Why not cover t
he bolts?=0AThe only reason one would have to have access to those bolts is
in the event of=0Asome damage, and in that case the fabric would probably
have to be removed=0Aanyway. =0A=C2- =0ADan Helsper =0APuryear, TN
=0A-----Original=0AMessage-----=0AFrom: Jerry Dotson <jdotson@centurylink.n
et>=0ATo: pietenpol-list < pietenpol-list@matronics.com >=0ASent: Mon, Feb
18, 2013 2:13 pm=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Covering control horn bolts
n@centurylink.net>=0A=C2-=0AJack,=0AI didn't cover the bolts....it was a
pain. I had to have the horns on before =0Acovering because of the braces w
elded to the horn and bolted to the wood frame.=0A=C2-=0A--------=0AJerry
Dotson=0A=C2-=0AFirst flight June 16,2012=0AFlying in phase 2=0ALycoming
O-235 C2C=0AJay AndersonCloudCars prop 76 X 44=0Ado not archive=0A=C2-
=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=C2-=0Ahttp:
//forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394510#394510=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A
=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A" target="_blank">http://www
.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_blan
k">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=C2- =0A=C2
-=0A=C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List=0Ahttp://f
=============
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Subject: | The Restorers, 10th Anniv. Edition |
Actually Matt I just carried the video equipment around for the film maker
so he felt obligated to put my
name in the footnotes. :) I really didn't fit into that movie at all
but it made for a nice diversion among all
the warbird restorers! Adam was very kind to include me in that film.
Mike C.
(don't look me up on the Post Office most-wanted list....terrible photo;))
Message 5
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jack(at)textors.com wrote:
> A very good site Tools! Also don't regrind have 10 ready to go...
>
>
On the subject of sharpening tungsten: Beware that the most common tungten has
a few percent thorium which is a radioactive element you don't want to breathe
in. There are special grinders that try to deal with this hazard but they are
expensive. Most people ignore the warnings but remember a particcle in your
lung has reduced the safe distance to zero! Save the money on the grinder and
go to your local chemical supply or a place that deals with curing meat and
get yourself a small jar of Sodium Nitrite (not nitrate) This is the stuff commonly
sold as 'chemsharp' It works beautifully and you don't need to worry about
the thorium dust. The chemsharp videos talk about shorting your electrode
to heat it but don't do this. Grab a few electodes and sharpen them before welding.
Hold in a pair of pliers and spark up a propane torch. Heat the end of
the electrode till it glows and then quickly dip it in the jar of sodium nitrite.
Move it up and down slightly in the puddle of melted chemical. Depending
on how much you move it you can control the taper of the sharpening. Another
fine point: (no pun) experienced welders know that the grooves created by grinding
need to go in the same direction as the electrode axis. If you held it
to the side while grinding then you got grooves going across the electrode and
it causes the arc to wander on you. Chemical sharpening leaves a very nice
finish and the arc control is outstanding. Don't waste your money on the chemsharp
label though, it is just sodium nitrite.
Happy welding.
Joe
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394584#394584
Message 6
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Thanks Jack,=0A=0AHere in aus it is difficult to find things sometimes. I c
alled a couple of companies and they said that they wouldn't sell sodium ni
trite to me. =0A=0AFinally I googled "food grade sodium nitrite" and came u
p with would you believe Ace chemicals. =0AIt is a Restricted item so I am
filling out some nosy guvmint forms. =0A=0AI should soon have 500 grams (1.
1) lbs of the stuff. Is anybody else in OZ tig welding? I am wondering what
to do with the other 450 grams of it. =0A=0AAnother question occurs. What
sort of shelf life can I expect? =0A=0AGeorge=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______________
_________________=0A From: scudrun <jstreet@uwaterloo.ca>=0ATo: pietenpol-l
ist@matronics.com =0ASent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 4:11 AM=0ASubject:
"scudrun" <jstreet@uwaterloo.ca>=0A=0A=0Ajack(at)textors.com wrote:=0A> A v
ery good site Tools! Also don't regrind have 10 ready to go...=0A> =0A> =0A
=0A=0AOn the subject of sharpening tungsten:- Beware that the most common
tungten has a few percent thorium which is a radioactive element you don't
want to breathe in.- There are special grinders that try to deal with th
is hazard but they are expensive.- Most people ignore the warnings but re
member a particcle in your lung has reduced the safe distance to zero! Save
the money on the grinder and go to your local chemical supply or a place t
hat deals with curing meat and get yourself a small jar of Sodium Nitrite (
not nitrate) This is the stuff commonly sold as 'chemsharp' It works beauti
fully and you don't need to worry about the thorium dust.- The chemsharp
videos talk about shorting your electrode to heat it but don't do this.-
Grab a few electodes and sharpen them before welding.- Hold in a pair of
pliers and spark up a propane torch.- Heat the end of the electrode till
it glows and then quickly dip it in the jar of sodium nitrite.- Move it u
p and
down slightly in the puddle of!=0A- melted chemical.- Depending on how
much you move it you can control the taper of the sharpening.- Another f
ine point: (no pun) experienced welders know that the grooves created by gr
inding need to go in the same direction as the electrode axis.- If you he
ld it to the side while grinding then you got grooves going across the elec
trode and it causes the arc to wander on you.- Chemical sharpening leaves
a very nice finish and the arc control is outstanding.- Don't waste your
money on the chemsharp label though, it is just sodium nitrite.=0A=0AHappy
welding.=0AJoe=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://foru
===============
Message 7
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Using the thoriated rods, a full time welder will be exposed to less than 100 millerems
of radiation in a year. Another web source says a welder is exposed
to 16 millerems a year. We naturally absorb about 300 millerems a year by just
being here on planet earth. The occupational safety limit is 5,000 per year.
A radioactive iodine solution to treat a thyroid will expose you to 10,000,000
millerems of radiation.
I wear a dusk mask when I sharpen them.
I found these numbers on the internet so take them as you may.
--------
John Francis
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394624#394624
Message 8
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A few years back I took one of those EAA Sport-Air Workshops for TIG weldin
g. It was taught by an expert from Lincoln Welding Corp. He never mentioned
even once about there being any hazard connected with sharpening the 2% th
oriated tungsten. Are y'all sure there is a real hazard there?
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: George Abernathy <avionixoz@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tue, Feb 19, 2013 4:33 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: TIG Welder
Thanks Jack,
Here in aus it is difficult to find things sometimes. I called a couple of
companies and they said that they wouldn't sell sodium nitrite to me.
Finally I googled "food grade sodium nitrite" and came up with would you be
lieve Ace chemicals.
It is a Restricted item so I am filling out some nosy guvmint forms.
I should soon have 500 grams (1.1) lbs of the stuff. Is anybody else in OZ
tig welding? I am wondering what to do with the other 450 grams of it.
Another question occurs. What sort of shelf life can I expect?
George
From: scudrun <jstreet@uwaterloo.ca>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 4:11 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: TIG Welder
jack(at)textors.com wrote:
> A very good site Tools! Also don't regrind have 10 ready to go...
>
>
On the subject of sharpening tungsten: Beware that the most common tungten
has a few percent thorium which is a radioactive element you don't want to
breathe in. There are special grinders that try to deal with this hazard
but they are expensive. Most people ignore the warnings but remember a par
ticcle in your lung has reduced the safe distance to zero! Save the money o
n the grinder and go to your local chemical supply or a place that deals wi
th curing meat and get yourself a small jar of Sodium Nitrite (not nitrate)
This is the stuff commonly sold as 'chemsharp' It works beautifully and yo
u don't need to worry about the thorium dust. The chemsharp videos talk ab
out shorting your electrode to heat it but don't do this. Grab a few elect
odes and sharpen them before welding. Hold in a pair of pliers and spark u
p a propane torch. Heat the end of the electrode till it glows and then qu
ickly dip it in the jar of sodium nitrite. Move it up and down slightly in
the puddle of!
melted chemical. Depending on how much you move it you can control the t
aper of the sharpening. Another fine point: (no pun) experienced welders k
now that the grooves created by grinding need to go in the same direction a
s the electrode axis. If you held it to the side while grinding then you g
ot grooves going across the electrode and it causes the arc to wander on yo
u. Chemical sharpening leaves a very nice finish and the arc control is ou
tstanding. Don't waste your money on the chemsharp label though, it is jus
t sodium nitrite.
Happy welding.
Joe
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php= ; - MATRONICS WEB
FORUMS ===============
========
Message 9
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The chemical sharpening is supposed to do a better job smoothness wise. =0A
=0ABesides I have already filled in the form and emailed it. =0A=0AI discov
ered that I couldn't see the puddle with my 15 year old harbor freight auto
darkening helmet. So I bought a miller super gee whiz bang titanium helmet
. It is an amazing piece of gear. It has settings for all sorts of stuff. E
ven one for grinding. =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A Fr
om: "helspersew@aol.com" <helspersew@aol.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matronic
s.com =0ASent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 11:24 AM=0ASubject: Re: Pietenp
ol-List: Re: TIG Welder=0A =0A=0AA few years back I took one of those EAA S
port-Air Workshops for TIG welding. It was taught by an expert from Lincoln
Welding Corp. He never mentioned even once about there being any hazard co
nnected with sharpening the 2% thoriated tungsten. Are y'all sure there is
a real hazard there?=0A-=0ADan Helsper=0APuryear, TN=0A-----Original Mess
age-----=0AFrom: George Abernathy <avionixoz@yahoo.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-lis
t <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>=0ASent: Tue, Feb 19, 2013 4:33 pm=0ASubjec
t: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: TIG Welder=0A=0A=0AThanks Jack,=0A=0AHere in aus
it is difficult to find things sometimes. I called a couple of companies a
nd they said that they wouldn't sell sodium nitrite to me. =0A=0AFinally I
googled "food grade sodium nitrite" and came up with would you believe Ace
chemicals. =0AIt is a Restricted item so I am filling out some nosy guvmint
forms. =0A=0AI should soon have 500 grams (1.1) lbs of the stuff. Is anybo
dy else in OZ tig welding? I am wondering what to do with the other 450 gra
ms of it. =0A=0AAnother question occurs. What sort of shelf life can I expe
ct? =0A=0AGeorge=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: sc
udrun <jstreet@uwaterloo.ca>=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com =0ASent: We
dnesday, February 20, 2013 4:11 AM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Re: TIG Welde
ca>=0A=0A=0Ajack(at)textors.com wrote:=0A> A very good site Tools! Also don
't regrind have 10 ready to go...=0A> =0A> =0A=0A=0AOn the subject of sharp
ening tungsten:- Beware that the most common tungten has a few percent th
orium which is a radioactive element you don't want to breathe in.- There
are special grinders that try to deal with this hazard but they are expens
ive.- Most people ignore the warnings but remember a particcle in your lu
ng has reduced the safe distance to zero! Save the money on the grinder and
go to your local chemical supply or a place that deals with curing meat an
d get yourself a small jar of Sodium Nitrite (not nitrate) This is the stuf
f commonly sold as 'chemsharp' It works beautifully and you=0A don't need t
o worry about the thorium dust.- The chemsharp videos talk about shorting
your electrode to heat it but don't do this.- Grab a few electodes and s
harpen them before welding.- Hold in a pair of pliers and spark up a prop
ane torch.- Heat the end of the electrode till it glows and then quickly
dip it in the jar of sodium nitrite.- Move it up and down slightly in the
puddle of!=0A- melted chemical.- Depending on how much you move it you
can control the taper of the sharpening.- Another fine point: (no pun) e
xperienced welders know that the grooves created by grinding need to go in
the same direction as the electrode axis.- If you held it to the side whi
le grinding then you got grooves going across the electrode and it causes t
he arc to wander on you.- Chemical sharpening leaves a very nice finish a
nd the arc control is outstanding.- Don't waste your money on the chemsha
rp label though, it=0A is just sodium nitrite.=0A=0AHappy welding.=0AJoe=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/v
=====================
Message 10
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Subject: | Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates |
Group,
I have no idea where to find someone / company to thread my axle (straight
axle LG) - or to do some TIG welding (not including my engine mount which is
already done by Vern @ flycorvair.net ) you know - all the control pieces,
etc..
some questions:
1. Generaly what company 'type' am I looking to google / yellow page lookup
for this service?
2. What should I expect to pay (generaly) to have the axle ends threaded?
3. What is the going hourly rate (range..) for a GOOD tig welder?
If anyone in the greater dayton-cinci-columbus OH areas has a refferal for
either or both types of services, Id appreaciate that also.
.
Bob Dewenter
Dayton OH
Message 11
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I also have a Harbor Freight auto-darkening helmet. It was way too dark unti
l I adjusted the darkness from 13 to 9. It now works perfectly with my Mille
r Diversion 180 TIG.
Mike Hardaway
Sent from an Apple iThingie.
On Feb 19, 2013, at 4:53 PM, George Abernathy <avionixoz@yahoo.com> wrote:
> The chemical sharpening is supposed to do a better job smoothness wise.
>
> Besides I have already filled in the form and emailed it.
>
> I discovered that I couldn't see the puddle with my 15 year old harbor fre
ight auto darkening helmet. So I bought a miller super gee whiz bang titaniu
m helmet. It is an amazing piece of gear. It has settings for all sorts of s
tuff. Even one for grinding.
>
> [snip]
Message 12
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Subject: | Shoulder Harness |
I am considering putting shoulder harnesses in my Pietenpol.
Does anyone have any ideas as to the best anchor point for the shoulder harness
for the rear seat? Also what hardware have you found best to mount to the structure?
Thanks,
Joseph
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Shoulder Harness |
I found a doc some time ago, i have it here :
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BzIyXuiMtrYARDByTGpCdEhZalE/edit?usp=sharing
may be it can help you
regards
Mario Giacummo
. -..- .. ... - .. .-. / . ... / ..- -. / .... . -.-. .... --- --..-- /
...- .. ...- .. .-. / . ... / ..- -. / .- .-. - .
2013/2/19 Ohbejoyful <ohbejoyful10@gmail.com>
>
> I am considering putting shoulder harnesses in my Pietenpol.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas as to the best anchor point for the shoulder
> harness for the rear seat? Also what hardware have you found best to mount
> to the structure?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joseph
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates |
I had my axel threaded by a local machine shop. They charged me there
minimum shop charge of 20 bucks.
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rdewenter@woh.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 5:14 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates
Group,
I have no idea where to find someone / company to thread my axle (straight
axle LG) - or to do some TIG welding (not including my engine mount which is
already done by Vern @ flycorvair.net ) you know - all the control pieces,
etc..
some questions:
1. Generaly what company 'type' am I looking to google / yellow page lookup
for this service?
2. What should I expect to pay (generaly) to have the axle ends threaded?
3. What is the going hourly rate (range..) for a GOOD tig welder?
If anyone in the greater dayton-cinci-columbus OH areas has a refferal for
either or both types of services, Id appreaciate that also.
.
Bob Dewenter
Dayton OH
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates |
Well, I think I'm gonna have whomever wants to come to my place to help me with
my hangar/have fun/do some machining and play with stuff in either two or three
weeks.
I have a very nice TIG welder and we can do some/all your welding. Or we can have
my neighbor do it as a demo (he's a lifelong professional welder, formerly
ASME certified to TIG weld cracked nitrogen tank cracks).
We can also thread your axles as long as the axles are 1 1/2" or smaller (that's
the size of the through hole on my larger lathe).
So consider coming down to Chatt for the weekend. I should have beds, couches,
cots, motorhome, floor space for 15 to 30 people, no worries there.
Should be the weekend of 2/3 Mar, or the next weekend. If there's any interest
there for you, let me know, I'll post details.
Insofar as finding local help, really, try Craigslist for welding services. Many
pros advertise there to make a few bucks afterhours. Otherwise, just google
or yellow pages. Typical "shop rates" are gonna run 75 an hour probably, unless
you can work a barter, strike up some personal connection or something like
that.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394633#394633
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Subject: | Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates |
I ran across this a few months ago and added it to my piet faovrites.
http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/viewitems/aircraft-axles-accessories/weld-on-axles?
haven't gotten to this point yet, so wasn't sure if this was reasonable in comparison.
Paul
--------
Paul Donahue
Started 8-3-12
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394634#394634
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Subject: | Shoulder Harness |
There is a lot of discussion on seatbelts in the archives.
This is the information I have about the British seatbelt locations (Same
information as the one Mario sent) http://westcoastpiet.com/seatbelts.htm
If I was being obsessive about this design I don't like the asymmetric pull
on the bolts for the harness. I would rather see a metal fitting coming
from the bottom and top that you attach the cable onto.
Many people run a 1/8th inch cable from the tail wheel spring fitting.
This is how I did my shoulder belts for the back seat.
http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/new_page_3.htm
I combined both the British anchors and an anchor to the tail wheel in an
attempt to divide the load like I do when I am rock climbing. Hopefully I
will never find out if it worked.
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ohbejoyful
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 5:33 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Shoulder Harness
--> <ohbejoyful10@gmail.com>
I am considering putting shoulder harnesses in my Pietenpol.
Does anyone have any ideas as to the best anchor point for the shoulder
harness for the rear seat? Also what hardware have you found best to mount
to the structure?
Thanks,
Joseph
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates |
you may also consider picking up a oxy/acety setup real cheap (harbor freight)
watch some you tube videos and give it a whirl. not super hard. just practice
a bit. torch welding isn't as pretty, but does a real nice job. worse case senario,
your not happy with your quality of work, have someone else do it, and keep
practicing so you can do your own welding on your next Piet.
If the cost of a professional to tig weld is much more than torch welding, go
with the torch welding. Only thing that probably needs to be tigged on the piet
is the aluminum fuel tank. Some will probably disagree.
--------
Paul Donahue
Started 8-3-12
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394636#394636
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Subject: | Re: Shoulder Harness |
Oscar had a very good idea for the front seat shoulder harness, here it
is.. http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/harness.html
Mario Giacummo
. -..- .. ... - .. .-. / . ... / ..- -. / .... . -.-. .... --- --..-- /
...- .. ...- .. .-. / . ... / ..- -. / .- .-. - .
2013/2/20 Chris <catdesigns@att.net>
>
> There is a lot of discussion on seatbelts in the archives.
>
> This is the information I have about the British seatbelt locations (Same
> information as the one Mario sent) http://westcoastpiet.com/seatbelts.htm
> If I was being obsessive about this design I don't like the asymmetric pull
> on the bolts for the harness. I would rather see a metal fitting coming
> from the bottom and top that you attach the cable onto.
>
> Many people run a 1/8th inch cable from the tail wheel spring fitting.
>
> This is how I did my shoulder belts for the back seat.
> http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/new_page_3.htm
>
> I combined both the British anchors and an anchor to the tail wheel in an
> attempt to divide the load like I do when I am rock climbing. Hopefully I
> will never find out if it worked.
>
> Chris
> Sacramento, Ca
> Westcoastpiet.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ohbejoyful
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 5:33 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Shoulder Harness
>
> --> <ohbejoyful10@gmail.com>
>
> I am considering putting shoulder harnesses in my Pietenpol.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas as to the best anchor point for the shoulder
> harness for the rear seat? Also what hardware have you found best to mount
> to the structure?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joseph
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates |
Little plug for Air Venture (Oshkosh)... there's a GREAT seminar on GAS welding
aluminum (as in for tanks) that is really really good.
Very comprehensive insofar as even construction methods that are conducive for
gas welding one together.
I agree that getting a gas outfit is probably the most comprehensive. You can
cut, braze, heat (for either fitting or taking things apart), weld (steel, alum)
and solder.
I do believe it's probably harder, but in the end, the trick to learning welding
is a matter of time with the hood down so to speak. So may as well just learn
what your gonna use.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394639#394639
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Subject: | Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no |
If you are concerned then you could use castle
nuts and cotterpins.
I am involved with the repair of a wingtip
on our RAA club Turbi. As some of you know,
it's a low wing AC. The underside two ft in
from the tip hit a rebar sign post without sign
that was just off the side of a certain country runway, ripping a slot
from behind the LE to
the first half of the aileron. The man doing the actual repair, being
somewhat older, decided
the wing had to come off. It's one piece just like
the original Piet. FOUR hour job. The four 1/2"
bolts holding the wing and fuse together
along with a number of other equally important
but smaller bolts all had nyloc nuts on them.
NONE of these had been touched since this
plane was built FORTY years ago. All were
fully tight. I know this because it fell to me to
climb head first into the bloody thing to
remove these things. :-) So in non moving
areas it appears nylocs work OK. Just
make sure they are NEW nuts every time.
Do not re-use old ones.
And no, before you ask, it wasn't me who
hit the rebar. I don't even fly this thing as I
have an arrangement with a friend and his
46, 90hp Chief.
Clif
I will beg you for advice, your reply will be concise,
and I will listen very nicely and then go out and do
exactly what I want.
I guess you are right Jack. The plans don't say specifically. I can't
recall ever seeing the bolts uncovered, but then again I never looked
for it. I would think it would be evident on pre-flight inspection if
the not had worked loose. Not likely in my opinion. And the
fabric/paint/glue might serve to hold the nut on. If the concern is the
difficulty in covering/fitting around the mounted horn, I can see what
you mean.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
Not sure where the plans call for covering For the horns I
would guess being able to make sure they are secure is a good thing.
Appreciate all the comments!
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
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