Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Wed 02/20/13


Total Messages Posted: 37



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:25 AM - Re: Oh, I'm still here.... (echobravo4)
     2. 03:29 AM - Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no (tools)
     3. 03:45 AM - Re: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no (Jack)
     4. 04:03 AM - Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (nightmare)
     5. 06:43 AM - Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (Michael Perez)
     6. 07:40 AM - Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (jarheadpilot82)
     7. 07:53 AM - engine choice (proplock)
     8. 08:07 AM - Re: engine choice (John Hofmann)
     9. 08:16 AM - Re: Seatbelts (woodflier)
    10. 08:34 AM - Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (Jack)
    11. 08:42 AM - Re: Tore Down my engine! (AircamperN11MS)
    12. 09:07 AM - inter-cylinder baffles (Douwe Blumberg)
    13. 09:14 AM - Re: inter-cylinder baffles (AircamperN11MS)
    14. 09:40 AM - Re: TIG Welder (scudrun)
    15. 09:50 AM - Re: TIG Welder (scudrun)
    16. 09:53 AM - Re: engine choice (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[Vantage Partners, LLC])
    17. 09:57 AM - Re: inter-cylinder baffles (Jack Phillips)
    18. 10:09 AM - Re: inter-cylinder baffles (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[Vantage Partners, LLC])
    19. 10:10 AM - Re: inter-cylinder baffles (tkreiner)
    20. 10:45 AM - Neil Royer (dwilson)
    21. 11:17 AM - Re: Tore Down my engine! (tkreiner)
    22. 11:28 AM - Re: Tore Down my engine! (AircamperN11MS)
    23. 11:31 AM - Re: inter-cylinder baffles (AircamperN11MS)
    24. 11:33 AM - Re: inter-cylinder baffles (AircamperN11MS)
    25. 12:27 PM - Re: Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (Michael Perez)
    26. 12:29 PM - Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (Michael Perez)
    27. 12:37 PM - Re: Re: TIG Welder (George Abernathy)
    28. 01:45 PM - Re: TIG Welder (scudrun)
    29. 01:46 PM - Re: inter-cylinder baffles (Jack Phillips)
    30. 01:58 PM - Re: Re: Tore Down my engine! (Jack Phillips)
    31. 04:39 PM - Re: Shoulder Harness (skipgadd@earthlink.net)
    32. 06:05 PM - Re: Re: Shoulder Harness (Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB)
    33. 07:47 PM - Re: Shoulder Harness (Ohbejoyful)
    34. 07:53 PM - Re: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no (Clif Dawson)
    35. 08:32 PM - Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates (tools)
    36. 09:49 PM - Re: engine choice (Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB)
    37. 10:06 PM - Re: Shoulder Harness (Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:25:48 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Oh, I'm still here....
    From: "echobravo4" <eab4@comcast.net>
    Keep at it Jim I know that Paint program can be challenging! ;) -------- Earl Brown I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I intended to be. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394643#394643


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:29:31 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no
    From: "tools" <n0kkj@yahoo.com>
    Wood shrinkage can allow a through bolt to become loose, all the while the nut never moving and remaining tightly in place on the bolt. I've seen this on my plane. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394644#394644


    Message 3


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    Time: 03:45:32 AM PST US
    From: "Jack" <jack@textors.com>
    Subject: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no
    Yes...on my tale surfaces which were torqued a couple years ago, all bolts for the hinges took one to two turns to tighten up before covering... Jack Textor Des Moines, IA -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tools Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 5:29 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no Wood shrinkage can allow a through bolt to become loose, all the while the nut never moving and remaining tightly in place on the bolt. I've seen this on my plane. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394644#394644


    Message 4


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    Time: 04:03:54 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates
    From: "nightmare" <pauldonahuepilot@yahoo.com>
    Tools; great to hear that others are actually torch welding aluminum. on a previous thread i had mentioned how i planned on welding my tank with a torch, but didnt want to recommend it to someone just learning since most on the welding forums seem to claim that its not worth trying. do you remember what gas and aluminum they were using? i've got acetylene and 5052 aluminum. Sorry for borrowing thread. Paul -------- Paul Donahue Started 8-3-12 do not archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394647#394647


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:43:15 AM PST US
    From: Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates
    An alternative to threading. Michael Perez Pietenpol HINT Videos Karetaker Aero www.karetakeraero.com


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:40:05 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates
    From: "jarheadpilot82" <jarheadpilot82@hotmail.com>
    Michael, Very cool, very clean look for your axle cap. One question though- what are you doing in place of safety wiring the hex nut? What are you doing to keep it from "backing out"? Just curious. Did you mill the cap your self? P.S. Oops. That makes 2 questions. -------- Semper Fi, Terry Hand Athens, GA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394661#394661


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:53:18 AM PST US
    Subject: engine choice
    From: "proplock" <proplock@federatedwildblue.com>
    Got a situation here, read on the UK site , 65 continental may be under powered for a Piet,seems they advise 85 or 0-200. Any thoughts? Corvair ? -------- A remarkable lad , capable of many things Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394663#394663


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:07:51 AM PST US
    From: John Hofmann <jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com>
    Subject: Re: engine choice
    Keep it light. 502Rocket is not underpowered with an A-65. It performs a bit better than my Cub with an A-75. John Hofmann Vice-President, Information Technology The Rees Group, Inc. 2424 American Lane Madison, WI 53704 Phone: 608.443.2468 ext 150 Fax: 608.443.2474 Email: jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com On Feb 20, 2013, at 9:53 AM, proplock wrote: <proplock@federatedwildblue.com> > > Got a situation here, read on the UK site , 65 continental may be under powered for a Piet,seems they advise 85 or 0-200. Any thoughts? Corvair ? > > -------- > A remarkable lad , capable of many things > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394663#394663 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:16:54 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Seatbelts
    From: woodflier <woodflier@aol.com>
    Joseph, there are many varying views on shoulder harness location and attac hment points. Look at as many variations as you can and decide what works f or you. I oped to go with raising the attach point above the turtledeck so that the harness would not pull down on my shoulders in the event of a sudd en stop. I built a steel tube frame that attaches to the top longerons that the harness attaches to, and ran 1/8" cables from the tailwheel attach pla te to the aft end of that frame to take the load. That additional structure is covered by a simple aluminum fairing and the whole setup is supposed to resemble the headrests seen on WWI fighters. Here are some pics: Matt Paxton NX629ML *********************** From: Ohbejoyful <ohbejoyful10@gmail.com> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Shoulder Harness I am considering putting shoulder harnesses in my Pietenpol. Does anyone have any ideas as to the best anchor point for the shoulder har ness for the rear seat? Also what hardware have you found best to mount to the structure? Thanks, Joseph


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:34:32 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates
    From: Jack <jack@textors.com>
    Michael a show plane for sure, outstanding work! Sent from my iPad Jack Textor On Feb 20, 2013, at 8:42 AM, Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > An alternative to threading. > > Michael Perez > Pietenpol HINT Videos > Karetaker Aero > www.karetakeraero.com > > <Axle Cap.jpg>


    Message 11


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    Time: 08:42:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Tore Down my engine!
    From: "AircamperN11MS" <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org>
    Tom, Take a good look at the prop flange if you are going to use the GPU crank. You will notice that one of the six bolt holes is drilled off center. It will need to be re-drilled to to relocate it, I believe the other holes will also need to be drill to accept the prop bolt bushings. It will work. Dad has converted several of these for aircraft use. The cylinder are different too. They are set up for a down draft carburetor whereas an aircraft engine is set up for updraft. You got those for a very good price and there are many usable parts in them. Just make sure the parts you choose are compatible. Regards, -------- Scott Liefeld Flying N11MS since March 1972 Steel Tube C-85-12 Wire Wheels Brodhead in 1996 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394669#394669


    Message 12


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    Time: 09:07:47 AM PST US
    From: "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
    Subject: inter-cylinder baffles
    Hey all, During some great visits with Gardiner (Thanks my friend for you and your lovely wife's southern hospitality!), Jeff and Terry, the subject of inter-cylinder baffling came up. As I've mentioned, I was hoping not to have to use cooling eyebrows, but my winter cht temps were too high so I just finished installing some eyebrows. Do I need to also install some baffling between the cylinders? I don't think cubs have any, and I think most of the installations I've seen at Brodhead don't, but I could be wrong. Would appreciate your input. Thanks Douwe


    Message 13


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    Time: 09:14:16 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: inter-cylinder baffles
    From: "AircamperN11MS" <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org>
    I don't have any on my C-85. Been that way for 41 years. No problems yet. -------- Scott Liefeld Flying N11MS since March 1972 Steel Tube C-85-12 Wire Wheels Brodhead in 1996 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394671#394671


    Message 14


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    Time: 09:40:54 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: TIG Welder
    From: "scudrun" <jstreet@uwaterloo.ca>
    John Francis wrote: > Using the thoriated rods, a full time welder will be exposed to less than 100 millerems of radiation in a year. Another web source says a welder is exposed to 16 millerems a year. We naturally absorb about 300 millerems a year by just being here on planet earth. The occupational safety limit is 5,000 per year. A radioactive iodine solution to treat a thyroid will expose you to 10,000,000 millerems of radiation. > > I wear a dusk mask when I sharpen them. > > I found these numbers on the internet so take them as you may. Well I don't like to tell people what to think or do, but when you read about radiation exposure levels keep in mind that there is a big difference between standing next to something which is hot (radioactive) and receiving a dose of rays, versus having a nuclear isotope lodged in your body nuking those nearby cells over and over and.... Decide for yourselves. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394673#394673


    Message 15


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    Time: 09:50:09 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: TIG Welder
    From: "scudrun" <jstreet@uwaterloo.ca>
    Here is a shot of a 1/16" zirconiated rod I chemically sharpened. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394674#394674 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/sharpened_with_sodium_nitrite_196.jpg


    Message 16


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    Time: 09:53:30 AM PST US
    From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[Vantage Partners, LLC]" <michael.d.cuy@nasa.gov>
    Subject: engine choice
    I agree with John H. that a 65 Continental engine is plenty of power for a lightly-built Pietenpol Air Camper. If you're in a very high/hot location then that may not be the case and you may need more power like the Rick Holland's and Ken Bickers of Colorado. If you plan to build a full electric Pietenpol or a GN-1 with lots of goodi es and extra weight you probably will want to consider more power like a 75, or up Continental powered engine. (or auto engine of your choic e). (and a metal prop or a good wood Cloudcars prop that lots of guys are getting good performance out of on Piets) Mike C. Ohio


    Message 17


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    Time: 09:57:53 AM PST US
    From: "Jack Phillips" <jack@bedfordlandings.com>
    Subject: inter-cylinder baffles
    Douwe, I originally did not include the inter-cylinder baffles on my A65. When I had a stuck piston ring, I sent an email to Harry Fenton, who is the "guru" for small Continentals. He asked if I had the baffles, and when I said no, he said that every case he's seen of stuck piston rings was due to high cylinder head temps, and invariably there was no baffling. He strongly recommended I add them, which I have done. I think I still have the drawings he sent me showing how to do it. I'll look for them and send them to you. Jack Phillips NX899JP Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douwe Blumberg Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 12:08 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: inter-cylinder baffles Hey all, During some great visits with Gardiner (Thanks my friend for you and your lovely wife's southern hospitality!), Jeff and Terry, the subject of inter-cylinder baffling came up. As I've mentioned, I was hoping not to have to use cooling eyebrows, but my winter cht temps were too high so I just finished installing some eyebrows. Do I need to also install some baffling between the cylinders? I don't think cubs have any, and I think most of the installations I've seen at Brodhead don't, but I could be wrong. Would appreciate your input. Thanks Douwe


    Message 18


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    Time: 10:09:53 AM PST US
    From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[Vantage Partners, LLC]" <michael.d.cuy@nasa.gov>
    Subject: inter-cylinder baffles
    I'd concur Dowe with Jack and Harry Fenton. I believe the Bingelis books s how diagrams or sketches of those baffles and they aren't hard to make up of scrap aluminum, springs, and a piece of welding rod or wire. I have a set in my airport desk drawer that I have to reinstall this spring . Thanks for the reminder. (had them out for maintenance) Mike C. Here's a good description with sketches on how to make these puppies. http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/intercylinder_baffles_343.pdf


    Message 19


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    Time: 10:10:26 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: inter-cylinder baffles
    From: "tkreiner" <tkreiner@gmail.com>
    There's a great article on the subject of inter cylinder baffles, which I'm attaching. Enjoy... -------- Tom Kreiner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394679#394679 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/intercylinder_oiltank_baff_247_210.pdf


    Message 20


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    Time: 10:45:16 AM PST US
    Subject: Neil Royer
    From: "dwilson" <marwilson@charter.net>
    This is kind of an interesting story about a local Aircamper. http://www.kvue.com/news/90-year-old-is-building-model-plane-165261146.html Dan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394682#394682


    Message 21


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    Time: 11:17:14 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Tore Down my engine!
    From: "tkreiner" <tkreiner@gmail.com>
    Scott, Thanks for the input! There is a guy here in the Houston area, Dirk Kretschman, who wrote this article: http://www.eaa.org/experimenter/articles/2009-04_vp2.asp and after reading the article, I tracked Dirk down, and got all of the AN manuals on the engine along with the LAA conversion notes to turn the engine into an aircraft engine. As I won't be using the PC-60 case, I'm only using part of the conversion notes. Like you mentioned, the crank flange does need to be drilled, and the centerline of one hole needs to be relocated by a small amount. This is clearly described in the LAA article. After disassembly, I've found that the crank mikes within the NEW LIMITS shown in the C & O Series overhaul manuals, and many of the other parts are good, as well. I've agreed to trade the old PC-60 case and camshaft for a C-90 camshaft, and so, I'll have nearly a C-90 stuffed into a C-85 case. If you recall from my first post, along with this stuff, I got 4 chrome plated O-200 cylinders, which have no detectable wear. Lacking, however, are the intake manifolds, spider, and several other items. Also needed are pistons and rings. The C-85 Crankcase that came with the package has some fretting on the center main flange faces - those adjacent to the bearing bores. MY guess is that I'll have to send the case out, and have it faced to clean up, then linebored for mains and camshaft. OR am I overlooking something? At the moment, I'm cleaning all the parts, and contemplating who or where to send the case to for repair. Several months ago, a guy came to me with an aircraft tug that needed repair, which I completed in trade for two 100 hr. old Slick mags to fit the engine, with gears and impulse couplings. So, the list of stuff I have for the engine is growing, but I still need several items. I'm not sure what's more fun, the engine work, or scrounging for parts... My total cost to date for the engine stuff is $352.00, not including a few shipping costs... -------- Tom Kreiner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394684#394684


    Message 22


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    Time: 11:28:26 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Tore Down my engine!
    From: "AircamperN11MS" <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org>
    Tom, Great article. Sounds like you have it under control. It is fun to scrounge for parts. That is how we built my plane. There was no aircraft spruce back in the day. Anyway, Contact me at the email address below and I will give you my dads email address. He may have some of the engine parts you require. He has a lot of cont. stuff. Good luck with your hunting. scott.liefeld@lacity.org -------- Scott Liefeld Flying N11MS since March 1972 Steel Tube C-85-12 Wire Wheels Brodhead in 1996 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394685#394685


    Message 23


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    Time: 11:31:20 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: inter-cylinder baffles
    From: "AircamperN11MS" <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org>
    Douwe, Do get me wrong. It is recommended that you have the baffles. I'm just saying that my plane has been fine without them. -------- Scott Liefeld Flying N11MS since March 1972 Steel Tube C-85-12 Wire Wheels Brodhead in 1996 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394686#394686


    Message 24


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    Time: 11:33:06 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: inter-cylinder baffles
    From: "AircamperN11MS" <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org>
    Opps, I meant Don't get me wrong. My typing fingers had a mis-fire. -------- Scott Liefeld Flying N11MS since March 1972 Steel Tube C-85-12 Wire Wheels Brodhead in 1996 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394687#394687


    Message 25


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    Time: 12:27:52 PM PST US
    From: Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates
    The nut is a plastic stop nut. You could put a castle nut as well. I should take a picture of the underside. The nut is slightly recessed as well. - Yes, machined myself. Michael Perez Pietenpol HINT Videos Karetaker Aero www.karetakeraero.com


    Message 26


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    Time: 12:29:44 PM PST US
    From: Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates
    Thank you Jack. If I had the time, I would mass produce parts for other fly ers and provide custom maching as well.- Someday... Michael Perez Pietenpol HINT Videos Karetaker Aero www.karetakeraero.com


    Message 27


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    Time: 12:37:03 PM PST US
    From: George Abernathy <avionixoz@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: TIG Welder
    I did try turning the darkness knob.- It didn't help. Must be the chinese ly welder. =0A=0A=0AThe sodium nitrite is on its way. It costs 33.00 and fr eight was 66.00. I asked the supplier if they delivered it wearing hazmat s uits. =0A=0A=0AGotta go the black helicopters are landing. =0A=0A=0A=0A____ ____________________________=0A From: Bkemike <bkemike@gmail.com>=0ATo: "pi etenpol-list@matronics.com" <pietenpol-list@matronics.com> =0ASent: Wednesd ay, February 20, 2013 12:18 PM=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: TIG Welde r=0A =0A=0AI also have a Harbor Freight auto-darkening helmet. It was way t oo dark until I adjusted the darkness from 13 to 9. It now works perfectly with my Miller Diversion 180 TIG.=0AMike Hardaway=0A=0ASent from an Apple i Thingie.=0A=0A=0AOn Feb 19, 2013, at 4:53 PM, George Abernathy <avionixoz@y ahoo.com> wrote:=0A=0A=0AThe chemical sharpening is supposed to do a better job smoothness wise. =0A>=0A>Besides I have already filled in the form and emailed it. =0A>=0A>I discovered that I couldn't see the puddle with my 15 year old harbor freight auto darkening helmet. So I bought a miller super gee whiz bang titanium helmet. It is an amazing piece of gear. It has setti ngs for all sorts of stuff. Even one for grinding. =0A>=0A>-=0A>[snip]=0A =================


    Message 28


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    Time: 01:45:44 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: TIG Welder
    From: "scudrun" <jstreet@uwaterloo.ca>
    WHAT! That's a hundred bucks! I was suggesting buying it through a chemical supply because it should cost a lot LESS than buying chemsharp. Couldn't you go to the local university and buy some from the chem lab? 20 bucks should buy you enough to last a lifetime. I'm not trying to make you feel bad, I just wish you would have said something about those numbers before pulling the trigger! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394703#394703


    Message 29


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    Time: 01:46:55 PM PST US
    From: "Jack Phillips" <jack@bedfordlandings.com>
    Subject: inter-cylinder baffles
    Good job, Mike! Those are the same drawings Harry sent me, that I was looking for to send to Douwe. Thanks for saving me the trouble. Jack Phillips NX899JP Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[Vantage Partners, LLC] Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 1:10 PM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: inter-cylinder baffles I'd concur Dowe with Jack and Harry Fenton. I believe the Bingelis books show diagrams or sketches of those baffles and they aren't hard to make up of scrap aluminum, springs, and a piece of welding rod or wire. I have a set in my airport desk drawer that I have to reinstall this spring. Thanks for the reminder. (had them out for maintenance) Mike C. Here's a good description with sketches on how to make these puppies. http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/intercylinder_baffles_343.pdf


    Message 30


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    Time: 01:58:58 PM PST US
    From: "Jack Phillips" <jack@bedfordlandings.com>
    Subject: Re: Tore Down my engine!
    Tom, I recommend sending your crankcase to Divco to overhaul it. They'll mill the faces flat, then line bore the crankshaft and camshaft. I had them do my A65 when I rebuilt it and it has never leaked a drop of oil around the crankcase seal. Good luck! Jack Phillips NX899JP Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tkreiner Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 2:17 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Tore Down my engine! Scott, Thanks for the input! There is a guy here in the Houston area, Dirk Kretschman, who wrote this article: http://www.eaa.org/experimenter/articles/2009-04_vp2.asp and after reading the article, I tracked Dirk down, and got all of the AN manuals on the engine along with the LAA conversion notes to turn the engine into an aircraft engine. As I won't be using the PC-60 case, I'm only using part of the conversion notes. Like you mentioned, the crank flange does need to be drilled, and the centerline of one hole needs to be relocated by a small amount. This is clearly described in the LAA article. After disassembly, I've found that the crank mikes within the NEW LIMITS shown in the C & O Series overhaul manuals, and many of the other parts are good, as well. I've agreed to trade the old PC-60 case and camshaft for a C-90 camshaft, and so, I'll have nearly a C-90 stuffed into a C-85 case. If you recall from my first post, along with this stuff, I got 4 chrome plated O-200 cylinders, which have no detectable wear. Lacking, however, are the intake manifolds, spider, and several other items. Also needed are pistons and rings. The C-85 Crankcase that came with the package has some fretting on the center main flange faces - those adjacent to the bearing bores. MY guess is that I'll have to send the case out, and have it faced to clean up, then linebored for mains and camshaft. OR am I overlooking something? At the moment, I'm cleaning all the parts, and contemplating who or where to send the case to for repair. Several months ago, a guy came to me with an aircraft tug that needed repair, which I completed in trade for two 100 hr. old Slick mags to fit the engine, with gears and impulse couplings. So, the list of stuff I have for the engine is growing, but I still need several items. I'm not sure what's more fun, the engine work, or scrounging for parts... My total cost to date for the engine stuff is $352.00, not including a few shipping costs... -------- Tom Kreiner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394684#394684


    Message 31


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    Time: 04:39:35 PM PST US
    From: "skipgadd@earthlink.net" <skipgadd@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Shoulder Harness
    Joseph, Attached shows how I did my front and pilot pits. Keep in mind this Piet has not been off the ground. The 7/16 picture shows the 2nd or 3rd practice instrument board, I have since moved the engine instruments to the right and the mag switch to the left, because when starting my Grega I am always standing at the prop or on the left side. Skip > [Original Message] > From: Ohbejoyful <ohbejoyful10@gmail.com> > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com> > Date: 2/19/2013 8:35:12 PM > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Shoulder Harness > > > I am considering putting shoulder harnesses in my Pietenpol. > > Does anyone have any ideas as to the best anchor point for the shoulder harness for the rear seat? Also what hardware have you found best to mount to the structure? > > Thanks, > > Joseph > >


    Message 32


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    Time: 06:05:17 PM PST US
    From: "Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil>
    Subject: Re: Shoulder Harness
    I like it. I am a BIG believer in Shoulder harnesses. Much research and discussion on adding shoulder harnesses on the Beech list taught me the following. 1. There are a lot of deaths and serious head injuries that happen when heads hit instrument panels. FAA numbers say using shoulder belts in small aircraft would reduce major injuries by 88% and fatalities by 20% 2. If you put shoulder attach points too low they add to back compression injuries. 3. One cross chest harness is much better than nothing probably 75 % as good as a double harness. though you can have torso twisting is an issue. 4. Double harnesses are best, attached just about the level of the base of your skull. coming straight 5. The setup is as strong as the weakest link. 6. Certified aircraft guys covet the experimental ability to use good quality auto seatbelts. It is important enough that the FAA has allowed GA certified aircraft to put seatbelts in with only a log entry. the only restriction is that the belts themselves are FAA approved ($) and that they are put in similar to approved setups. I ended up putting single non retractable shoulder harnesses in my Vtail Bonanza the same way that shoulder harnesses were put in from 1948 to 1956. The attach point had become a hangon strap. Beechcraft Shoulder harnesses were offered as an option in the late 1940s and early 1950s, but Beech dropped them for until the late 1950s because none sold! No one wanted them. Remember, cars in the 1950s did not have lap belts. I could not afford the $1500 per seat certified retractable dual shoulder harness. I will figure out how to mount rear shoulder belts in my Vtail. I will reinstall the harness in the Piet to get it flying. Then I will evaluate where it rides on me and pax. Now I will get off my soap box. Blue Skies, Steve D ----- Original Message ----- From: "skipgadd@earthlink.net" <skipgadd@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Shoulder Harness > Joseph, > Attached shows how I did my front and pilot pits. Keep in mind this > Piethas not been off the ground. > The 7/16 picture shows the 2nd or 3rd practice instrument board, I > havesince moved the engine instruments to the right and the mag > switch to the > left, because when starting my Grega I am always standing at the > prop or on > the left side. > Skip > > > > [Original Message] > > From: Ohbejoyful < > > To: < > > Date: 2/19/2013 8:35:12 PM > > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Shoulder Harness > > > > > > I am considering putting shoulder harnesses in my Pietenpol. > > > > Does anyone have any ideas as to the best anchor point for the shoulder > harness for the rear seat? Also what hardware have you found best to mount > to the structure? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Joseph > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 33


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    Time: 07:47:14 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Shoulder Harness
    From: Ohbejoyful <ohbejoyful10@gmail.com>
    Since I do not have the turtleback in yet, I'm thinking I will go mostly with the attach points for the rear seat as shown in the British plans. Is this a good idea? Thanks, Joseph On Feb 20, 2013, at 8:04 PM, "Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil> wrote: > > I like it. I am a BIG believer in Shoulder harnesses. > > Much research and discussion on adding shoulder harnesses on the Beech list taught me the following. > > 1. There are a lot of deaths and serious head injuries that happen when heads hit instrument panels. > FAA numbers say using shoulder belts in small aircraft would reduce major injuries by 88% and fatalities by 20% > 2. If you put shoulder attach points too low they add to back compression injuries. > 3. One cross chest harness is much better than nothing probably 75 % as good as a double harness. though you can have torso twisting is an issue. > 4. Double harnesses are best, attached just about the level of the base of your skull. coming straight > 5. The setup is as strong as the weakest link. > 6. Certified aircraft guys covet the experimental ability to use good quality auto seatbelts. > > It is important enough that the FAA has allowed GA certified aircraft to put seatbelts in with only a log entry. the only restriction is that the belts themselves are FAA approved ($) and that they are put in similar to approved setups. > > I ended up putting single non retractable shoulder harnesses in my Vtail Bonanza the same way that shoulder harnesses were put in from 1948 to 1956. The attach point had become a hangon strap. > > Beechcraft Shoulder harnesses were offered as an option in the late 1940s and early 1950s, but Beech dropped them for until the late 1950s because none sold! No one wanted them. Remember, cars in the 1950s did not have lap belts. > > I could not afford the $1500 per seat certified retractable dual shoulder harness. I will figure out how to mount rear shoulder belts in my Vtail. > > I will reinstall the harness in the Piet to get it flying. Then I will evaluate where it rides on me and pax. > > Now I will get off my soap box. > > Blue Skies, > Steve D > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "skipgadd@earthlink.net" <skipgadd@earthlink.net> > Date: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 18:55 > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Shoulder Harness > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > > >> Joseph, >> Attached shows how I did my front and pilot pits. Keep in mind this >> Piethas not been off the ground. >> The 7/16 picture shows the 2nd or 3rd practice instrument board, I >> havesince moved the engine instruments to the right and the mag >> switch to the >> left, because when starting my Grega I am always standing at the >> prop or on >> the left side. >> Skip >> >> >>> [Original Message] >>> From: Ohbejoyful < >>> To: < >>> Date: 2/19/2013 8:35:12 PM >>> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Shoulder Harness >>> >>> >>> I am considering putting shoulder harnesses in my Pietenpol. >>> >>> Does anyone have any ideas as to the best anchor point for the shoulder >> harness for the rear seat? Also what hardware have you found best to mount >> to the structure? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Joseph >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> > > > >


    Message 34


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    Time: 07:53:48 PM PST US
    From: "Clif Dawson" <cdawson5854@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: Covering control horn bolts, yes or no
    Are they covered or open to the elements.? Clif > > Yes...on my tale surfaces which were torqued a couple years ago, all bolts > for the hinges took one to two turns to tighten up before covering... > > Jack Textor > Des Moines, IA > > > > Wood shrinkage can allow a through bolt to become loose, all the while the > nut never moving and remaining tightly in place on the bolt. > > I've seen this on my plane.


    Message 35


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    Time: 08:32:41 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Axle Threading / TIG Welder sources, rates
    From: "tools" <n0kkj@yahoo.com>
    This is a busy thread! Can't remember the alloy, but they showed oxy/acet as well as oxy/hydrogen? There were compromises with each, and I leaned towards just oxy/acet because I'm already set up. If I weren't the hydrogen thing was pretty cool. I've also played around with alum welding with oxy/acet with the henrob/dillion torch and that's usually all 1000 series stuff, the advantage over tig being it's annealed and workable. The seminar at oshkosh was all standard smith style torch stuff, with a readily available flux (which may be the same as the propietary henrob stuff, don't really know). Ultimately, the real advantage seemed to be that the oxy/acet rig just becomes MORE versatile knowing how to do it. Like anything, it's a matter of burning up some gas and aluminum while just learning to assimilate what's happening through practice. The most counterintuitive thing was that when things were getting fast, and you wanted to slow down to let your brain catch up, the natural thing to do is pull the torch back... WRONG... the heat cone is bigger and you just melt a big hole. What needs to be done is to feed more filler rod, which cools the puddle and slows things down. Sounds simple enough... Tools Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394724#394724


    Message 36


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    Time: 09:49:36 PM PST US
    From: "Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil>
    Subject: Re: engine choice
    I have heard that the C90 is considered by many to be the best of the breed. Blue Skies, Steve D ----- Original Message ----- From: proplock <proplock@federatedwildblue.com> Subject: Pietenpol-List: engine choice > > Got a situation here, read on the UK site , 65 continental may be under powered for a Piet,seems they advise 85 or 0-200. Any thoughts? Corvair ? > > -------- > A remarkable lad , capable of many things > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394663#394663 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 37


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    Time: 10:06:25 PM PST US
    From: "Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil>
    Subject: Re: Shoulder Harness
    IMHO BIKIAR Better than nothing, I would put them as high as is reasonable. To be honest, a compressed spine is better than dain bramage. I am going to get mine flying as it was built with them through the upper seat back. Getting flying is important to me. Then I will possibly add a turtledeck just high enough to put them where I want them (and look cool) being safe is also important. This is just added safety. Blue Skies, Steve D ----- Original Message ----- From: Ohbejoyful <ohbejoyful10@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Shoulder Harness > > Since I do not have the turtleback in yet, I'm thinking I will go mostly with the attach points for the rear seat as shown in the British > plans. Is this a good idea? > > Thanks, > Joseph > > > On Feb 20, 2013, at 8:04 PM, "Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB" < wrote: > > > > > I like it. I am a BIG believer in Shoulder harnesses. > > > > Much research and discussion on adding shoulder harnesses on the Beech list taught me the following. > > > > 1. There are a lot of deaths and serious head injuries that happen when heads hit instrument panels. > > FAA numbers say using shoulder belts in small aircraft would reduce major injuries by 88% and fatalities by 20% > > 2. If you put shoulder attach points too low they add to back compression injuries. > > 3. One cross chest harness is much better than nothing probably 75 % as good as a double harness. though you can have torso twisting is an issue. > > 4. Double harnesses are best, attached just about the level of the base of your skull. coming straight > > 5. The setup is as strong as the weakest link. > > 6. Certified aircraft guys covet the experimental ability to use good quality auto seatbelts. > > > > It is important enough that the FAA has allowed GA certified aircraft to put seatbelts in with only a log entry. the only restriction is that the belts themselves are FAA approved ($) and that they are put in similar to approved setups. > > > > I ended up putting single non retractable shoulder harnesses in my Vtail Bonanza the same way that shoulder harnesses were put in from 1948 to 1956. The attach point had become a hangon strap. > > > > Beechcraft Shoulder harnesses were offered as an option in the late 1940s and early 1950s, but Beech dropped them for until the late 1950s because none sold! No one wanted them. Remember, cars in the 1950s did not have lap belts. > > > > I could not afford the $1500 per seat certified retractable dual shoulder harness. I will figure out how to mount rear shoulder belts in my Vtail. > > > > I will reinstall the harness in the Piet to get it flying. Then I will evaluate where it rides on me and pax. > > > > Now I will get off my soap box. > > > > Blue Skies, > > Steve D > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "skipgadd@earthlink.net" < > > Date: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 18:55 > > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Shoulder Harness > > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > > > > > >> Joseph, > >> Attached shows how I did my front and pilot pits. Keep in mind this > >> Piethas not been off the ground. > >> The 7/16 picture shows the 2nd or 3rd practice instrument board, I > >> havesince moved the engine instruments to the right and the mag > >> switch to the > >> left, because when starting my Grega I am always standing at the > >> prop or on > >> the left side. > >> Skip > >> > >> > >>> [Original Message] > >>> From: Ohbejoyful <>>> To: <>>> Date: 2/19/2013 8:35:12 PM > >>> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Shoulder Harness > >>> > >>> I am considering putting shoulder harnesses in my Pietenpol. > >>> > >>> Does anyone have any ideas as to the best anchor point for the shoulder > >> harness for the rear seat? Also what hardware have you found best to mount > >> to the structure? > >>> > >>> Thanks, > >>> > >>> Joseph > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > >




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