Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:40 AM - Re: Number of varnish coats needed... (John Franklin)
2. 04:39 AM - Re: What should I do to fix this?? (Don Emch)
3. 04:40 AM - Re: What should I do to fix this?? (tools)
4. 04:48 AM - wood reapir and varnishing (Douwe Blumberg)
5. 04:56 AM - goggles (Douwe Blumberg)
6. 05:37 AM - Re: goggles (Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB)
7. 05:58 AM - Re: goggles (Gary Boothe)
8. 06:39 AM - Re: What should I do to fix this?? (nightmare)
9. 07:41 AM - Re: What should I do to fix this?? (Ken Bickers)
10. 08:07 AM - Re: Number of varnish coats needed... (Craig Aho)
11. 08:19 AM - Re: Anyone in the Springfield, VA area? (Fun2av8)
12. 09:00 AM - Re: What should I do to fix this?? (jarheadpilot82)
13. 09:35 AM - Re: What should I do to fix this?? (Mark Roberts)
14. 10:13 AM - Re: What should I do to fix this?? (tools)
15. 01:34 PM - Re: goggles (Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB)
16. 01:43 PM - Garmin 1000 video (Oscar Zuniga)
17. 01:48 PM - Re: Garmin 1000 video (Robert Gow)
18. 01:56 PM - Re: goggles (taildrags)
19. 01:59 PM - Re: Garmin 1000 video (taildrags)
20. 03:41 PM - Re: Successful gross weight test (Ryan M)
21. 05:35 PM - Re: Successful gross weight test (Charles Burkholder)
22. 06:26 PM - Re: Garmin 1000 video (tkreiner)
23. 08:16 PM - Re: Successful gross weight test (taildrags)
24. 08:25 PM - Re: What should I do to fix this?? (Mark Roberts)
25. 08:25 PM - Re: Garmin 1000 video (taildrags)
26. 08:28 PM - Re: wood reapir and varnishing (Mark Roberts)
27. 08:33 PM - Re: "RE-PIET's" first kinda decent videos (Mark Roberts)
28. 09:17 PM - Re: "RE-PIET's" first kinda decent videos (taildrags)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Number of varnish coats needed... |
Mark,
This may not be a problem in your area but here in SE Texas I made a big mistake
by not putting enough coats of varnish on the outside of the fuselage. My thinking
was that one or two coats would seal the wood and that would be enough,
but what happened was that black mildew got down inside the grain pores of the
semi-varnished wood. I spent an entire weekend scrubbing the mildew out and
then applied two more coats of spar varnish to get a smooth finish. Of course
you want plenty of coats inside the cockpit where there's more scuffing and
wear.
The only other suggestion I have is that you might consider painting your engine
mount white as it would more easily show rust and/or cracks.
Regards,
John Franklin
Prairie Aire 4TA0
Needville, TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
>
>Hi Guys:
>
>What's the consensus out there on number of varnish coats needed for the fuselage...
I got one coat on most of the front inside parts (did'nt get all the underneath
sides fully or the outside of the bottom floor yet).
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: What should I do to fix this?? |
Hi Mark,
Throughout the whole process of building an airplane you really want to have the
mindset of... "what is the most correct thing to do?" Even though the most
correct is usually not what you want to do. If you know in the back of your mind
that the most correct thing would be to cut that thing out and away from the
gusset and replace it, then that is what you should do.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399093#399093
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: What should I do to fix this?? |
Based on your varnish post, I guess you haven't put on the plywood sides?
I'd just replace that part. At 5" from one end, not far enough for a proper scarf...
Pretty sure the 43.13 would have you replacing the part. If you were
to scarf, it would then have you boxing in the scarf I think.
A compression fracture is just one of those bad things.
If you decide not to, I'd do a scarf to replace the fracture, as long as you can,
and then box around it, rather than just leaving the fracture there. The design
calls for a inch cross section (well, close). The boxing in you describe
only gives you a 1/4 of what the plans call for at 1/8 each.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399094#399094
Message 4
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| Subject: | wood reapir and varnishing |
Mark,
Your fix sounds good to me. Since it adds little weight, you could go
with
=BC=94 .
Re fuselage varnishing. I think the consensus is=85 there isn=92t a
consensus,
except that it penetrates well and is a good product that is compatible
with
your covering system=92s glue.
I=92d say most guys over-varnish, but unless you=92re worried about a
tiny bit
extra weight, who cares? Myself=85 I=92d varnish with a thinned coat to
really
get it penetrating the wood and then a second full coat.
$.02
Douwe
Message 5
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Hey Ken!
They ARE pretty cool. I really like them. They are made by Halcyon in
England, who makes most of the "real" (glass not plastic) RAF type goggles.
Got them from an outfit in England who had a great selection. Just do a
thorough Google search and you'll find them. Don't forget to search for
stuff like vintage motorcycle goggles or vintage RAF goggles, or Halcyon RAF
goggles. Mostly they come in black with nickel metal and I was surprised to
find these brass ones. I have a smaller pair too which look niftier but the
larger ones offer a better field of view. I like this type of goggle
because they are glass so there's no distortion and they're well made.
I just got the prescription laminates put on and I like them also. Had the
guy leave the bottom third clear so I could read my instruments and charts
(gps)
He's an old optometrist from New York/Jersey and is a real personality,
kinda "old school". Here's his site.
http://www.prescriptiongoggles.com/
D
Message 6
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UNCLASSIFIED
What about shatter resistance? Are they a danger to your eyes in an accident?
Blue Skies,
Steve D
On 04/22/13, Douwe Blumberg wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Hey Ken!
>
>
>
> They ARE pretty cool. I really like them. They are made by Halcyon in England,
who makes most of the “real” (glass not plastic) RAF type goggles.
Got them from an outfit in England who had a great selection. Just do a thorough
Google search and you’ll find them. Don’t forget to search for
stuff like vintage motorcycle goggles or vintage RAF goggles, or Halcyon RAF
goggles. Mostly they come in black with nickel metal and I was surprised to
find these brass ones. I have a smaller pair too which look niftier but the larger
ones offer a better field of view. I like this type of goggle because they
are glass so there’s no distortion and they’re well made.
>
>
>
> I just got the prescription laminates put on and I like them also. Had the guy
leave the bottom third clear so I could read my instruments and charts (gps)
>
>
>
> He’s an old optometrist from New York/Jersey and is a real personality,
kinda “old school”. Here’s his site.
>
>
>
> http://www.prescriptiongoggles.com/(blockedhttp://www.prescriptiongoggles.com/)
>
>
>
> D
>
>
>
>
>
>
UNCLASSIFIED
Message 7
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Steven,
I have to ask: Why do you begin your posts with, "UNCLASSIFIED"?
Gary
NX308MB
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 22, 2013, at 5:36 AM, "Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil>
wrote:
> wrote:
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: What should I do to fix this?? |
I would lean toward replacing it. U can take a palm sander to the gussets, and
one of those vibrating tools (cheap at harbor freight) to separate it from the
ply ( if installed). Just leave about a 1/4 inch of wood remaining on the brace,
then palm sand the rest off down to the ply so you dont damage the ply.
--------
Paul Donahue
Started 8-3-12
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399104#399104
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: What should I do to fix this?? |
Mark, this is a good time to get out (or Google) a copy of AC 43.13-1B -
Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and
Repair. I'd vote for fixing it. Some day, you'll be flying the airplane.
You'll have plenty to think about without having the nagging worry that
one of the key structural pieces that ties the landing gear through the
fuselage to the wing might not be as strong as it should be. Besides, we
all have rebuilt parts that we had previously built. Keeps us humble. :)
My best, Ken
On Sun, Apr 21, 2013 at 11:37 PM, Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>wrote:
> mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
>
> Hi Again:
>
> So while painting the varnish on the plane's fuse members today, I
> discovered something I am very glad I found, but wish I'd have seen before
> I build the fuse sides.
>
> I cut all of my own longerons and cross pieces from raw, un-finished
> sitka. I cut over size then planed the pieces to the finished size. The
> vertical fuse strut that connects the bottom fuse longeron to the top
> longeron, the one that the front left cabane strut connects to, has a
> compression fracture in the wood about 4-5 inches from the top longeron.
> You can see it plainly. It is actually glued to the inside 1/8" ply front
> fuse gusset that lines the inside of the engine tray, but still, it's there
> plain to see. Dunno how I missed it when I was building it.
>
> So, if I was to pull on the top of the cabane strut connection and the
> bottom of the plane (as if in a tug-o-war.... OR a high G manuver), I could
> see this part wanting to separate right at that fracture. It is, after all,
> the main connection to the fuse.
>
> I am sure the 2 plywood sides would sandwich and hold the piece securely,
> but still... I want to make that area more secure with some reinforcement.
>
> I will post a picture of the fracture. It can be seen looking from the
> front of the fuse, and runs forward to back on the face of the strut that
> is glued to the inside ply gusset. It is only on that side of the strut,
> but it is there.
>
> So, I am thinking of lining the front and rear of the strut where the
> fracture is with a 1/8 x 7/8" wide, x 8" or so long plate. That should make
> that whole area surrounded with a "box" of plywood (the side of the fuse
> and the inside gusset, and the 2 plates) that would hold the tension stress
> of the wing trying to pull the strut apart at the fracture, like a
> tug-o-war.
>
> Thoughts? I wish I'd seen this before the strut was in place. I really
> don't want to try to cut that part out and replace it at this point unless
> I really have to for safety. It would almost be like fixing a cracked strut
> that was't fully broken in a landing or something...
>
> Thanks!!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399086#399086
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Number of varnish coats needed... |
I agree with Douwe that one thinned followed by one full coat is good for m
ost of the structure. I have a bunch of wood boat building experiance and l
ove Schooner Varnish and if you want a piece of you ship to look real nice
at least 4-5 coats of that varnish will really make the piece look nice. I
will probably do that with my gear leags and maybe the interior of my cockp
it. Craig
> Date: Mon=2C 22 Apr 2013 05:40:17 -0500
> From: jbfjr@peoplepc.com
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Number of varnish coats needed...
>
>
> Mark=2C
>
> This may not be a problem in your area but here in SE Texas I made a big
mistake by not putting enough coats of varnish on the outside of the fusela
ge. My thinking was that one or two coats would seal the wood and that wou
ld be enough=2C but what happened was that black mildew got down inside the
grain pores of the semi-varnished wood. I spent an entire weekend scrubbi
ng the mildew out and then applied two more coats of spar varnish to get a
smooth finish. Of course you want plenty of coats inside the cockpit where
there's more scuffing and wear.
>
> The only other suggestion I have is that you might consider painting your
engine mount white as it would more easily show rust and/or cracks.
>
> Regards=2C
> John Franklin
> Prairie Aire 4TA0
> Needville=2C TX
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Mark Roberts <mark.rbrts1@gmail.com>
>
com>
> >
> >Hi Guys:
> >
> >What's the consensus out there on number of varnish coats needed for the
fuselage... I got one coat on most of the front inside parts (did'nt get a
ll the underneath sides fully or the outside of the bottom floor yet).
> >
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Anyone in the Springfield, VA area? |
By all means come on out if can get away. I met Zeke yesterday at Culpeper - he
stopped by to see Mr. Sam and introduce himself. Was nice to meet him. I hope
to pop over to White Post soon. Last I spoke with Gene, his Piet Masterpiece
(understatement) is very close. The fuse and tail are done and the wing is
built. He's in the final stages of sanding and painting the wing. I'm looking
forward to the maiden flight.
--------
Jim McWhorter
N687MB (New Owner)
Culpeper, VA KCJR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399111#399111
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: What should I do to fix this?? |
Mark,
Before you do anything, go read AC43-13 as several others have suggested. After
you have read it then ask yourself, "if I only repair it, and the repair fails,
what is the worst that can happen to me and my passengers"?
If you can sleep well at night with the answer you come up with, then let that
guide you. Not trying to be harsh, but I am trying to get you to add risk management
in your tool box as you build.
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
Athens, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399113#399113
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: What should I do to fix this?? |
OK. What a bunch of spoil sports.
The next time I need a good honest answer, I will ask somewhere else :o)
Thanks to all of you that posted, as you confirmed what I felt in my heart: this
thing needs to be replaced, not repaired. As much as I want to keep it there,
I don't want the nagging thought in the back of my mind that I could have a
hard landing and create a strut problem :o
You know how sometimes you want something to be different and you know the truth
to be something else.... that's what happened when I saw that compression fracture.
Immediately knew "Replacement" but hoped "fix".
So, if I ever make it to Brodhead and wanna give rides to people that read this
list, I'd better replace the strut :o)
Thanks guys! I appreciate the answers. AC-43-13 at hand as well....
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399118#399118
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: What should I do to fix this?? |
Excellent choice!
Having done this kind of repair before, I think the easiest is a decent set of
hand chisels and a smallish back saw (even a model airplane style x-acto will
work fine).
I'm still not certain you've put on the sides, I'll assume so as it's worst case.
Using the chisels remove the upper and lower interior gusset plates. If you've
got nails, try to pry them out first, but it's not a big deal, a good chisel
will cut through them if necessary. Try to remove the top few plys, that'll keep
you out of the good part of the other members. Then just pare the remaining
plywood off. It's more controlled than sanding, less messy and noisy and won't
take but 20 or 30 minutes each.
Get comfortable to where you can control the chisel and use a skewing cut. Lay
the chisel flat, bevel up and "slice". It won't take a lot of pressure if the
chisel is decently sharp. You're not cutting anything hard, so you can sharpen
the chisel with a rather flat bevel, in the 25 degree range.
Cut almost through the piece above and below the fracture, nearly to the skin.
Take a chisel and knock that piece out. Then use the chisel from the newly exposed
ends, bevel down and try to split off about 1/8" at a time from that end
into the cluster joint. In a few splits, you'll be close to the skin. When
you get to the skin, do just like before and pare off the remaining spruce and
glue. You'll have to do it bevel down and be careful, unless you have some
crank neck chisels (which would work REALLY well, then you can get level bevel
up and not risk digging in).
In fact, they'll work so well, it might be worth bending the neck of a chisel to
do this job. Most tangs should be soft enough to do it cold...
The spruce and epoxy are very soft and it won't be difficult. It'll seem tedious,
which is it, but it'll be carefully carved out of there before you know it.
If you do dig into something you don't want it, it'll be a very minor deal,
not a major goof. Epoxy is very gap filling so a little dig here and there are
meaningless. I'd do it all by hand, not hammering the chisel along with a
mallet (until you get the hang of things).
If you carve out 1/32" at a time, it'll take you 32 operations... at a couple minutes
each... so an hour? The thing is, it's slow and safe, not nerve wracking,
you learn as you go to get more efficient, just very very little risk. The
wood will be immediately prepared to receive the new piece.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399121#399121
Message 15
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UNCLASSIFIED
The Email system that I use is Army Knowledge Online. It is the Army email system
for personal and professional use. All of our communications are split into
"Classified" and "Unclassified."
Classified is anything that is confidential, For Office Use Only, Secret, Top Secret,
or even higher classifications. All of those are marked "Classified Secret"
or whatever the clearance level is.
the system automatically starts each Email with "UNCLASSIFIED." I have an Army
Knowledge Online-Secure Email address also, used only on secure systems. They
all begin "CLASSIFIED
BTW the ALL CAPS is a hold over from the old teletypes. One font and only caps
made the system less complicated. 26 letters instead of 52.
Blue "UNCLASSIFIED" Skies,
Steve D
On 04/22/13, Gary Boothe wrote:
>
> Steven,
>
> I have to ask: Why do you begin your posts with, "UNCLASSIFIED"?
>
> Gary
> NX308MB
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 22, 2013, at 5:36 AM, "Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB" <steven.d.dortch@us.army.mil>
wrote:
>
> > wrote:
>
>
UNCLASSIFIED
Message 16
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| Subject: | Garmin 1000 video |
Anybody out there have a Garmin 1000 instructional video that they'd like t
o sell? I'm scheduling a BFR and it's given in a brand-new Cessna 172 with
Garmin 1000. The instructor has recommended that I start with the instruc
tional video before attempting to fly behind the glass panel for the first
time.
Sporty's has the DVD for $89.95 and that's the route I'll go if I can't fin
d a used one. Contact me off-list=2C please.
do not archive
Oscar Zuniga
Medford=2C OR
Message 17
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| Subject: | Garmin 1000 video |
If it is a VFR flight test I would not be too worried. Your biggest
challenge will be keeping your head out the window and not playing with
the G1000. Just find the airspeed, altitude and vertical speed tapes and
ignore all the extra data.
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar
Zuniga
Sent: April 22, 2013 4:43 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Garmin 1000 video
Anybody out there have a Garmin 1000 instructional video that they'd like
to sell? I'm scheduling a BFR and it's given in a brand-new Cessna 172
with Garmin 1000. The instructor has recommended that I start with the
instructional video before attempting to fly behind the glass panel for
the first time.
Sporty's has the DVD for $89.95 and that's the route I'll go if I can't
find a used one. Contact me off-list, please.
do not archive
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Message 18
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In connection with Steve's last post (but NOT in connection with the subject),
I once wrote to the AOPA Air Safety Foundation suggesting what I thought was an
excellent safety-related change to the way we do things in aviation. One of
the most arcane things about flight preparation and execution is deciphering
the @#$%& weather forecasts and printouts. It's all in abbreviated, truncated
English or it invokes strange symbols and abbreviations representing each type
of weather phenomenon. All of it, as near as I can tell, was born of the need
to keep transmitted data sparse since it went out on the telegraph, teletype,
or other outmoded data transmission method. Nobody does that anymore, so my
suggestion was that all weather reports, forecasts, and all be presented in
normal English since it is extremely important that pilots understand the information
and we don't use dah-dit-dah-dah anymore. (Only Mario Giacummo uses it,
as far as I can tell ;o)
The response from ASF? Great idea, but there are still underdeveloped places around
the world who don't have the data transmission speeds or equipment capabilities
that we have here in the U.S., so no dice.
So we lumber on, and exam prep questions still try to trip up wannabe pilots by
throwing curves about the abbreviation for mixed snow, hail, and moderate turbulence
occurring in mountain passes below 5000MSL (or is it AGL?), after 1600Z
(or is it local time?). And if the winds are reported as less than 5kts (or
is it MPH?), they aren't reported at all... so we can save one digit in a weather
printout. Sheesh. They take away 121.5Mhz but the "sort out the letters
to find your weather!" puzzle gets to stay.
do not archive
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399142#399142
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 1000 video |
Brick;
Roger that. I know how to fly the 172, but I don't know how to operate the Garmin
1000. It's about learning, and I'd much rather learn it while sitting at
my desk than while paying an instructor or renting an airplane. So, let's say
it's a new skill that I'm interested in.
I do appreciate the advice on which readouts to be attentive to, though. Same
ones as always.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
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| Subject: | Re: Successful gross weight test |
That is a sweet looking windshield frame! Th matching goggles are nice too.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 21, 2013, at 8:20 PM, "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> w
rote:
> Today, =9CRE-PIET=9D successfully carried her max gross weight
. As I consider it unsafe to try to secure 160 of ballast in the cockpit, I
decided to use myself.
>
> All went well. Obviously a bit more sluggish, but trimmed out and stalled
nicely. This load was 40 lbs more than Marci and I with a full load of 20 g
allons.
>
> Douwe
> <first passenger.JPG>
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| Subject: | Re: Successful gross weight test |
Judging by that photo and other photo's of 're piet' I'd say it's all a
sweet looking plane all together. All agree?? :-) Way to go Douwe
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan M
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Successful gross weight test
That is a sweet looking windshield frame! Th matching goggles are nice
too.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 21, 2013, at 8:20 PM, "Douwe Blumberg"
<douweblumberg@earthlink.net> wrote:
Today, =9CRE-PIET=9D successfully carried her max gross
weight. As I consider it unsafe to try to secure 160 of ballast in the
cockpit, I decided to use myself.
All went well. Obviously a bit more sluggish, but trimmed out and
stalled nicely. This load was 40 lbs more than Marci and I with a full
load of 20 gallons.
Douwe
<first passenger.JPG>
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 1000 video |
Oscar,
Go to the Garmin site and download the smaller of the two manuals users maybe called
the cockpit manual, and read it three or more times.
Then go to any Cessna pilot center that has either a 172 or a 182 with the G1000,
and ask them if you can sit in the plane with the " red box" power supply.
If they think they might have a potential sale - hint, hint... They'll fall all
over themselves to teach you about the unit at no charge.
Or, better yet, join CAP, and take their two day G1000 course - free for volunteers
- as I did, and learn everything about it.
The main drawback is that there's WAAAAY too many buttons to push and the level
of complexity with the UI is difficult to master for the casual pilot.
Have fun!
--------
Tom Kreiner
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| Subject: | Re: Successful gross weight test |
How much did you have to pay the poor rube to go up with you? ;o) He looks like
he's having wayyy too much fun!
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
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| Subject: | Re: What should I do to fix this?? |
Excellent advice Tools!
I have not put the outside skin on yet, so it is just connected to the front, 1/8"
top engine cavity gusset that lines the first couple of feet at the top of
the fuse at the nose. The actual compression fracture is facing the gusset (so
it is the side glued to the gusset) and I can NOT believe I didn't see it when
building. I know exactly where that fracture was on the board I cut, and I
remember planing down that board and working around the fracture so I got plenty
of good, useable pieces, so It surprised me somewhat to find the fracture,
but thar' it be, shiver me timbers...
SO, the good news is that with your suggestion of planing down the piece, and cutting
it out of the floor gussets (the really biggest issue with the repair is
them dang bottom gussets.... I made them oversized for some added beef in the
area...), I really will sleep better the night before the first flight...
Thanks for all the support!!
Mark
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 1000 video |
Tom: good hints, and better than you can imagine because here at the Medford airport,
the CAP hangar is immediately outside the gate to my rows of hangars.
They have a 172 but not a newer one. I'll inquire to see if they have the training
program.
If I go to the Cessna dealer (Jet Center, next door to the CAP hangar) and pretend
that I'm interested in a new Skyhawk so they'll let me play with the 1000
in it, they will just ask me, "hey, aren't you the guy we saw washing down the
fuselage of an old open cockpit fabric airplane the other day? Haw, haw! Does
that thing every fly? Haw, haw! What kind of nav instruments ya got in her...
a sextant and a pirate treasure map? Haw, haw! Whatcha want with a glass
panel? Haw, haw!"
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
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| Subject: | Re: wood reapir and varnishing |
Thanks Douwe.
Based on the look of Re-Piet, I'd say I should follow what ever advice you give
me!
I hope my bird looks as nice (in it's own rite, of course!).
I should go slow and enjoy the process. It is not a race, and when it's done, I
am not sure which plane I will build next, as for me, it is the building that
is the pleasure... Flying will be fun too, but building is a creative process
that I crave.
Mark
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| Subject: | Re: "RE-PIET's" first kinda decent videos |
How Fun!!
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| Subject: | Re: "RE-PIET's" first kinda decent videos |
Love it. And I guess one of these days we'll have to do a scientific study (similar
to the fish scales for thrust) where we have people measure the resting
angle of their airplane's top longerons while on the ground. Those big-wheeled
Piets sure seem to sit at a taller angle to the ground than us split-gear, fat-tired
Pieters. That would mean a much better 3-point landing configuration
(full stall at touchdown, for sure). The indication would be that you could
land the big-wheelers at a slower touchdown speed with a shorter rollout. Have
they ever had a spot-landing competition at Brodhead, or maybe a short-landing
competition?
Ahhh... do not archive
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
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