Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:35 AM - I Forgot to Add Proof (jarheadpilot82)
2. 03:42 AM - Re: Your Favorite Words to Hear in a Georgia Restaurant? (helspersew@aol.com)
3. 04:41 AM - Re: Your Favorite Words to Hear in a Georgia Restaurant? (jarheadpilot82)
4. 05:49 AM - Shad's offer and axle thoughts (Douwe Blumberg)
5. 06:38 AM - Re: I Forgot to Add Proof (Jerry Dotson)
6. 06:58 AM - Re: Wooden gear legs (Craig Aho)
7. 08:38 AM - Re: axle bending (Bill Church)
8. 09:19 AM - Re: axle bending (AircamperN11MS)
9. 09:41 AM - Plans inconsistency (Isablcorky@aol.com)
10. 10:52 AM - Re: Re: axle bending (Craig Aho)
11. 12:08 PM - Re: Plans inconsistency (jarheadpilot82)
12. 02:06 PM - Re: Re: axle bending (helspersew@aol.com)
13. 02:30 PM - Re: central Iowa Piets? (rorichts)
14. 02:34 PM - Re: central Iowa Piets? (rorichts)
15. 02:39 PM - Re: central Iowa Piets? (rorichts)
16. 03:48 PM - Re: I Forgot to Add Proof (jarheadpilot82)
17. 04:25 PM - Re: Plans inconsistency (C N Campbell)
18. 04:36 PM - Re: Plans inconsistency (Isablcorky@aol.com)
19. 07:06 PM - Re: Wooden gear legs (Clif Dawson)
20. 09:34 PM - Re: Wooden gear legs (Dennis Vetter)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | I Forgot to Add Proof |
Sorry for the 2nd thread. I forgot to add the proof/photos/evidence.
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
Athens, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399833#399833
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2960_205.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2959_229.jpg
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Your Favorite Words to Hear in a Georgia Restaurant? |
Terry,
I would have found that very cumbersome and completely unnecessary (Sorry U
ncle Tony). If your spars are close to perfect (most are) then it follows t
hat the wing surfaces will be also if the ribs are identical to each other,
and placement and relation to the spars is the same.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: jarheadpilot82 <jarheadpilot82@hotmail.com>
Sent: Wed, May 1, 2013 8:46 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Your Favorite Words to Hear in a Georgia Restauran
t?
ail.com>
of course, they are "Ribs are Done!" :D
Just finished my last wing rib today. Well, not quite done. I have to-
1. Trim the nose of the ribs for the leading edge piece, as yet to be built
.
2. Rout the gussets where they are "proud". (always loved that word when ta
lking
about building)
3. Trim the tail of the ribs to prep them for the trailing edge piece, as y
et to
be created.
But I am at least finished with the jig. Progress!
But I have one question-
Tony Bingelis suggests NOT putting the ribs together on a set of short faux
spars to sand them. He says it is better to trammel the wings and then sand
two
or three of them at a time with a long sanding board. To the builders who h
ave
completed your wings, does it really matter, as Tony suggests? Your thought
s are
appreciated.
P. S. On to the tail feathers!
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
Athens, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399816#399816
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Your Favorite Words to Hear in a Georgia Restaurant? |
Thanks to all for the words of wisdom. I will round off the edges of the gussets
after routing them flush and call it a day.
Thanks again.
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
Athens, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399837#399837
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Shad's offer and axle thoughts |
Thanks Shad!
Dang, I already ordered the zig zag stuff and it's on its' way.
Re the axle discussion, then I'll shut up about it. I agree with Mikeee, if
you're building, just use the thicker stuff and save weight somewhere else
besides the landing gear. Believe me, that is one place you don't want to
skimp. I'm in a different boat as because mine is already done, so whether
I modify mine (kind of a fun experiment) or build a new one, they're both
extra work. Building a new one being a bit more work.
D
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: I Forgot to Add Proof |
Congratulations Terry. Keep on keepin' on. Just a matter of time before I look
out at the runway and you coming to visit and show off your Piet.
Oh and the proof looks good to me.
--------
Jerry Dotson
First flight June 16,2012
Flying in phase 2
Lycoming O-235 C2C
Jay Anderson CloudCars prop 76 X 44
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399844#399844
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wooden gear legs |
Is that 2 cents Canadian or US?
From: cdawson5854@shaw.ca
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wooden gear legs
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
Absolutely!! The more touching the better. =0A
:-)=0A
=0A
Clif=0A
=0A
After reading that post a couple =0A
weeks ago about the broken gear leg=2C it seems a good thing to make it a
=0A
priority that the gear legs actually touch both the fuselage longerons an
d =0A
eachother at the bottom=2C so shock isn=92t all taken up by the =0A
bolts.=0A
=0A
=0A
$.02=0A
=0A
Douwe=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
=0A
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: axle bending |
First off, the axle as shown in the plans should be sufficient. But the key is
"as shown in the plans"; i.e. no brakes (or, more precisely, no extended axle
required due to space needed for brakes). If the space required for the brake
arrangement you choose is relatively small, just beef up the wall thickness
to 3/16", as has been successfully done by Mike Cuy and others. If your brake
system needs more space, use the heavier wall and also get the tube heat treated,
like Jack Phillips did.
Shoving a piece of wood inside the axle doesn't seem to be a wise approach. As
was mentioned, the wood will retain moisture, and almost certainly result in
corrosion. And the wood will add very little in strength. Just because something
was an accepted practice many years ago, doesn't mean it is/was a good idea.
And finally, I can't see adding a bunch of diagonal tubes being a viable option.
It would be a lot of work. It would add minimal strength. All the additional
welding will likely warp the axle. Douwe, if you feel the need to stiffen
your existing axle, you may be able to simply weld a steel bar onto the top and
bottom surfaces of your current axle. Since your axle is already hidden inside
a fairing, the added bars likely would not even be visible. Of course, care
would need to be taken in your welding procedure to ensure that distortion
is minimized.
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399855#399855
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: axle bending |
Here is a pic of my planes front view. The axle is 1.5 inches by 0.125 wall and
is original to the plane. It does not have anything extra in the center of it.
At times I do have a little bow in the axle when loaded to gross weight.
I do not have any brakes which means that the axle is full floating and can rotate
should a wheel run low on grease. Ask me how I know. It is hard on the
bungee cords when that happens. My feeling is to just use the heavier wall tube
and don't worry about it. When it does bend or flex a little it add some camber
to the wheels. I think that would make for a little better handling qualities.
My 3 cents. (adjusted for inflation)
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399858#399858
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/piet_115_234.jpg
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Plans inconsistency |
Pieters,
Had this problem 13 years ago and have forgotten how it was solved. Spar
distances. The fullsize layout indicates 27 3/4 in distance between spars
inside measurements. If you measure the layout you will find a distance of 28
1/4. Who should I believe.
Need your comments before I cut wood.
Corky
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: axle bending |
Sounds good to me=2C since I have to replace my bowed axel anyway Im going
to the heavier wall. But the discussion was kind of interesting.
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
> From: Scott.liefeld@lacity.org
> Date: Thu=2C 2 May 2013 09:19:36 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>
ity.org>
>
> Here is a pic of my planes front view. The axle is 1.5 inches by 0.125 wa
ll and is original to the plane. It does not have anything extra in the ce
nter of it. At times I do have a little bow in the axle when loaded to gro
ss weight. I do not have any brakes which means that the axle is full floa
ting and can rotate should a wheel run low on grease. Ask me how I know.
It is hard on the bungee cords when that happens. My feeling is to just us
e the heavier wall tube and don't worry about it. When it does bend or fle
x a little it add some camber to the wheels. I think that would make for a
little better handling qualities.
>
> My 3 cents. (adjusted for inflation)
>
> --------
> Scott Liefeld
> Flying N11MS since March 1972
> Steel Tube
> C-85-12
> Wire Wheels
> Brodhead in 1996
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399858#399858
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/piet_115_234.jpg
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Plans inconsistency |
Corky,
When looking at my plans, I see the chord as being 60 inches. If you add the distances
(6 3/4 + 1 + 27 3/4 + 1 + 11 3/4 + 11 3/4) it equals 60 inches.
I don't have the full size rib drawing with me, but does it show a different size
spar than the 1 inch? Like maybe a 3/4"? That could be your missing 1/2" 1/4"
less on each spar. I may be talking out my backside, but just trying to help.
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
Athens, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399869#399869
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/screen_shot_2013_05_02_at_20136_pm_911.png
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: axle bending |
Bill,
I hear you. All this talk about axle bending.....but a little bending (flex
ing) is OK. Its the "breaking" part we want to avoid. My axle is warped fro
m all the welding. I agree that when welding in all those diagonals, warpin
g would be difficult to avoid. But if anyone could do it, Douwe certainly c
ould with his experience and skill.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Church <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Thu, May 2, 2013 11:41 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: axle bending
>
First off, the axle as shown in the plans should be sufficient. But the ke
y is
"as shown in the plans"; i.e. no brakes (or, more precisely, no extended ax
le
required due to space needed for brakes). If the space required for the br
ake
arrangement you choose is relatively small, just beef up the wall thickness
to
3/16", as has been successfully done by Mike Cuy and others. If your brake
system needs more space, use the heavier wall and also get the tube heat
treated, like Jack Phillips did.
Shoving a piece of wood inside the axle doesn't seem to be a wise approach.
As
was mentioned, the wood will retain moisture, and almost certainly result i
n
corrosion. And the wood will add very little in strength. Just because
something was an accepted practice many years ago, doesn't mean it is/was a
good
idea.
And finally, I can't see adding a bunch of diagonal tubes being a viable op
tion.
It would be a lot of work. It would add minimal strength. All the additio
nal
welding will likely warp the axle. Douwe, if you feel the need to stiffen
your
existing axle, you may be able to simply weld a steel bar onto the top and
bottom surfaces of your current axle. Since your axle is already hidden in
side
a fairing, the added bars likely would not even be visible. Of course, car
e
would need to be taken in your welding procedure to ensure that distortion
is
minimized.
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399855#399855
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: central Iowa Piets? |
Dennis Vetter wrote:
> I'm 20 miles WNW of Fort Dodge,IA. N6636B 65 hp Cont, Piet. Where are you located?
Dennis Vetter, minimax103@hotmail.com :D
Dennis
Look forward to seeing you again, it was yours that I saw in Iowa Falls last summer
Rich
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399875#399875
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: central Iowa Piets? |
jack(at)textors.com wrote:
> Robert I'm in DSM, www.textors.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
> Jack Textor
> Jack
> Looked over your pics very nice, your experience will be very helpful
> Rich ( Robert)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399769#399769
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399876#399876
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: central Iowa Piets? |
ldmill wrote:
> Yup! I actually live in Colo - right between Ames and Marshalltown. Have a
GN-1 hangered in Marshalltown. Give me a yell:
> Lorin Miller
> Cell - 641-485-0840
> email: lorin.miller@emerson.com
> GN-1 N30PP, Cont A-75
Nice weather improves will stop in Marshalltown and have another close look
take care
Rich
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399878#399878
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: I Forgot to Add Proof |
Thanks, Jerry. I appreciate the encouragement.
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
Athens, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399880#399880
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Plans inconsistency |
My full-size rib plan measures 27-11/16 spar to spar. That's the reason
that full-size rib plan should not be used to build your rib jig with.
Paper shrinks or expands with the changes in temperature and humidity.
On the main wing plan, there is a drawing at the top of the page giving
the dimensions on how to lay out the wing rib. Suggest you use that
wing rib plan to decorate your shop wall and lay out the rib on the
piece of whatever you are going to use for the jig, using the diminsions
from the main drawing. Then, come in 6-3/4 inches from the front of the
rib to the front of the spar (if you plan to use a 1-inch thick spar)
use 7 inches from the front of the rib if you're using a 3/4 inch thick
spar (which is what I did). Then use the wing rib plan to establish the
verticals and diagonal pieces. KEEP THE 27-3/4 DIMENSION FROM THE REAR
OF THE FRONT SPAR TO THE FRONT OF THE REAR SPAR. Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Isablcorky@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2013 12:41 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistency
Pieters,
Had this problem 13 years ago and have forgotten how it was solved.
Spar distances. The fullsize layout indicates 27 3/4 in distance between
spars inside measurements. If you measure the layout you will find a
distance of 28 1/4. Who should I believe.
Need your comments before I cut wood.
Corky
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Plans inconsistency |
In a message dated 5/2/2013 6:26:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
cncampbell@windstream.net writes:
My full-size rib plan measures 27-11/16 spar to spar. That's the reason
that full-size rib plan should not be used to build your rib jig with.
Paper shrinks or expands with the changes in temperature and humidity. On the
main wing plan, there is a drawing at the top of the page giving the
dimensions on how to lay out the wing rib. Suggest you use that wing rib plan
to
decorate your shop wall and lay out the rib on the piece of whatever you
are going to use for the jig, using the diminsions from the main drawing.
Then, come in 6-3/4 inches from the front of the rib to the front of the
spar (if you plan to use a 1-inch thick spar) use 7 inches from the front of
the rib if you're using a 3/4 inch thick spar (which is what I did). Then
use the wing rib plan to establish the verticals and diagonal pieces. KEEP
THE 27-3/4 DIMENSION FROM THE REAR OF THE FRONT SPAR TO THE FRONT OF THE
REAR SPAR. Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: _Isablcorky@aol.com_ (mailto:Isablcorky@aol.com)
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2013 12:41 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistency
Pieters,
Had this problem 13 years ago and have forgotten how it was solved. Spar
distances. The fullsize layout indicates 27 3/4 in distance between spars
inside measurements. If you measure the layout you will find a distance of 28
1/4. Who should I believe.
Need your comments before I cut wood.
Corky
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Thanks. I'm profiling the rib on my jig now using the given numbers. It
will take longer to get set up but the accuracy will be well worth it;
Corky
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear legs |
I dunno. Ask your wife. :-)
Under certain circumstances I'm fairly
certain it doesn't matter.
Clif
A Canadian is someone who knows how to
make love in a canoe. Pierre Burton
----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Aho
Is that 2 cents Canadian or US?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: cdawson5854@shaw.ca
Absolutely!! The more touching the better. :-)
Clif
make it a priority that the gear legs actually touch both the
fuselage longerons and eachother at the bottom, $.02
Douwe
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear legs |
That's worth more than $.02. Some times small details matter. A lot!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399895#399895
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|