Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:08 AM - Speed (danhelsper@aol.com)
2. 04:10 AM - Speed (danhelsper@aol.com)
3. 05:19 AM - Re: To LSA or not to LSA (AircamperN11MS)
4. 05:49 AM - Re: finger strainer problem (bdewenter)
5. 06:20 AM - pipe tape (Douwe Blumberg)
6. 06:31 AM - fuel component thread sealing compound (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[Vantage Partners, LLC])
7. 06:38 AM - rotary torque (Douwe Blumberg)
8. 06:39 AM - Re: Speed (tools)
9. 06:58 AM - Re: pipe tape (Dennis Engelkenjohn)
10. 07:10 AM - Re: finger strainer problem (Dennis Engelkenjohn)
11. 07:11 AM - ford oil pressure (bender)
12. 08:36 AM - Re: pipe tape (Dick N)
13. 08:55 AM - Mario's Pietenpol (Dan Yocum)
14. 11:34 AM - Painting question (John Franklin)
15. 11:42 AM - Re: Painting question (Gary Boothe)
16. 11:52 AM - Re: Painting question (tools)
17. 12:04 PM - Re: Painting question (tools)
18. 12:16 PM - Re: Re: Painting question (Hans van der Voort)
19. 02:00 PM - leather flying helmet (Douwe Blumberg)
20. 02:52 PM - Re: Speed (Greg Cardinal)
21. 03:17 PM - Re: Speed (danhelsper@aol.com)
22. 03:18 PM - Re: Speed (Gary Boothe)
23. 03:27 PM - Re: Re: Speed (danhelsper@aol.com)
24. 03:38 PM - Re: ford oil pressure (danhelsper@aol.com)
25. 04:44 PM - Re: Speed (tools)
26. 05:47 PM - Off Topic -- Ohio Flyers -- Help (dgaldrich)
27. 06:55 PM - Re: Off Topic -- Ohio Flyers -- Help (Jack Phillips)
28. 07:49 PM - How many engines? for CONTACT Magazine (John Fay)
29. 07:55 PM - Re: Speed (Clif Dawson)
30. 08:12 PM - Re: How many engines? for CONTACT Magazine (Greg Cardinal)
31. 08:53 PM - Re: Speed (taildrags)
32. 09:35 PM - Re: cables, wires, tubes, cords, instruments, etc (taildrags)
Message 1
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after sitting through some airfoil forums at OSH I surmised that it just mi
ght have something to do with the fact that I supported the aft edge-top of
the wing LE ply so that it couldn't (didn't) sink-down with the fabric shr
inking. What do y'all think?
I can't believe
Message 2
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Sorry- messed up on that last one. What I was trying to say was that I can'
t believe I can't raise some opinions on this.
after sitting through some airfoil forums at OSH I surmised that it just mi
ght have something to do with the fact that I supported the aft edge-top of
the wing LE ply so that it couldn't (didn't) sink-down with the fabric shr
inking. What do y'all think?
Dan Helsper
Pryear, TN
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: To LSA or not to LSA |
Gardiner,
You are correct. 1320 lbs. I always seem to make that mistake. Thanks for the
catch.
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406222#406222
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: finger strainer problem |
Thanks everyone. Ill use a tap and the correct thread fluid for sealing all fuel
fittings.
--------
Bob 'Early Builder' Dewenter
Dayton OH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406224#406224
Message 5
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Pipe tape is a big "no-no" in an aircraft fuel system. The reason is that
carbs have been clogged by scraps of the stuff that was left dangling during
installation. It is VERY common to find little bits in the gascolator on
installations that use pipe tape, even when great care was taken. It has
therefore become standard practice NOT to use it. I used a Vaseline-like
grease that I purchased at Aircraft Spruce.
Douwe
Message 6
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| Subject: | fuel component thread sealing compound |
My Uncle Tony says no Teflon tape in fuel system plumbing but recommends th
is "beeswax-like" substance and it works great. (as long as you don't
get any in the ID of any fittings.)
Mike C.
[cid:image001.png@01CE941A.080F3D00]
Message 7
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Hey Dan,
Years ago, I delved into this subject when coming up with ways to replicate
the performance of WWI type engines.
While the Ford is much closer in performance to these older engines than
modern aircraft engines, there are still some major differences which
account for the Gnome's ability to spin that large paddle prop while the
Ford struggles with your four-blader.
First off, the 50hp Gnome is a 488 cubic inch capacity engine while your
Ford is around 200...
Secondly, it is producing all of it's torque at 1200, while yours needs to
spin up closer to 2,000 to produce max torque. Since drag on these props
increases exponentially, one can see how much more power would be required
to spin that prop even a few hundred rpm more.
With old engines, airplane guys always get confused with HP and torque,
assuming that a modern 180 Lycoming can spin the same nine foot prop a 180
mercedes of almost 900 cubic inches did. IT can't, they are two different
animals.
It's like the old 35hp tractors which can pull three plows behind them while
your 500hp mustang never could.
I think it's a great experiment, but my guess is that you'll need to
gradually thin those blades down until you can turn up a bit more.
Good luck!
Douwe
Message 8
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As Piet folks, we really don't spend much time rigging our planes. Most Piets
fly around with the elevator not in line with the stab in normal cruise flight.
The Piet tail is not a lifting tail like a bleriot (spelling) or something. Even
though the elevator is deflected down in level stable flight, the tail is holding
the nose up. What that would indicate is that the stab should be trimmed
out to eliminate that extra drag.
Struts and washout should be trimmed for fastest cruise. Incidence should be trimmed
for minimal drag...
When I rebuilt my Piet, which included making new wing struts, I'm sure the plane
was rigged differently than before. However, it felt the same so I let it
go at that. However, it was faster than before, I attributed it to finally being
comfortable enough in the plane, and by myself (before always instructing
my son) to realize it went faster with the ball 3/4 out to the right, meaning
the plane wasn't rigged right, the ball indicator wasn't rigged right, or the
new struts just happened to rig the wing in a way that was faster.
While airfoils obviously make a difference, in our performance zone, I'm thinking
stuff like I mentioned is simply more likely than the trailing edge difference.
Larry Williams thought maybe his leading edge half ribs slowed his plane down significantly...
who knows?!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406228#406228
Message 9
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Thanks for the explanation. very helpful. I know the product you refer
to, Wicks carries it also.
Dennis
From: Douwe Blumberg
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 8:19 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: pipe tape
Pipe tape is a big =9Cno-no=9D in an aircraft fuel system.
The reason is that carbs have been clogged by scraps of the stuff that
was left dangling during installation. It is VERY common to find little
bits in the gascolator on installations that use pipe tape, even when
great care was taken. It has therefore become standard practice NOT to
use it. I used a Vaseline-like grease that I purchased at Aircraft
Spruce.
Douwe
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: finger strainer problem |
Thanks for the update on the pipe tape. I=99ll get the right stuff
from Wicks, they sell it also and they are a half hour from me.
Dennis
From: Steve Ruse
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: finger strainer problem
A tiny piece of pipe tape could clog the tiny fuel passages in the
carburetor. This makes the engine quiet, and we all know noisy planes
are the most fun.
Spruce sells a product called "fuel lube" made for this purpose. It
helps seal the threads, and also acts as an anti seize. Use sparingly.
Steve Ruse
Dennis Engelkenjohn <mushface1@gmail.com> wrote:
Why not use pipe tape? Not questioning you, just want to know.
Dennis
From: Douwe Blumberg
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 8:51 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: finger strainer problem
Hey Bob,
I remember a similar problem getting my strainer(s) to screw nicely into
the aluminum weld-on fitting. Assuming you have the matching
sizes
I forced one, NOT the way to go because the brass just rethreads the
aluminum making it worthless when you need to remove it. I bought the
correct size national pipe thread tap and lightly cleaned out the
aluminum bushing threads. I also needed to do this because the finger
strainer didn=99t want to go far enough in. It stuck out way too
much and was ugly.
Also, ck the brass threads for nicks and dings which could be making
things harder.
Ck for proper size first though.
Remember NOT to use pipe tape.
Douwe
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD=03g(=EF=BD=EF
=BD=EF=BDM=EF=BDGq=EF=BDz=EF=BD=EF=BD
Message 11
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| Subject: | ford oil pressure |
Ok... got my engine back together and ran it yesterday.
I modified the oil pump per a ford Nov1932 service bulletin to increase the oil
flow and machined the housing and gears to increase pressure a bit per billsbangers.com
To my surprise, after running it I saw a steady 2lbs of pressure.
I plugged the line going from the pump galley to the front of the pan...red arrow
below.... and that gives me 5-6 lbs.. I know the increase in flow is big..
and its feeding the bearings for sure cause I now have a front main leak.. but
i'm wondering how important the line, red arrow, from the pump to the dipper
tray really is... could it be restricted a bit or go away. the other line from
the valve galley is feeding the tray and all the oil from the mains hits the
tray too. The line from the pump to the tray is just a big "leak" on the pressure
feeding the mains.
about to pull the pan to fix the main seal
jeff faith
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406232#406232
Attachments:
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Message 12
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Douwe
That grease is called Fuel Lube. Some mechanics love ane some hate it,
I really like it for gaskets and threads.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Douwe Blumberg
To: pietenpolgroup
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 8:19 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: pipe tape
Pipe tape is a big "no-no" in an aircraft fuel system. The reason is
that carbs have been clogged by scraps of the stuff that was left
dangling during installation. It is VERY common to find little bits in
the gascolator on installations that use pipe tape, even when great care
was taken. It has therefore become standard practice NOT to use it. I
used a Vaseline-like grease that I purchased at Aircraft Spruce.
Douwe
Message 13
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| Subject: | Mario's Pietenpol |
Mario's doing great work on his Piet. Fuse is done and engine is
mounted, wings are covered and primed - you should check it out, here:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/105721238882545681618/posts
Enjoy,
Dan
Message 14
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| Subject: | Painting question |
I have a run-of-the-mill air compressor with a regulator/oil separator and an additional
water separator, all bought from the big-box home improvement stores.
Is that enough filtration to spray paint with either latex or aircraft dope?
I've heard that any oil that gets into the paint is really bad news.
Thanks,
John Franklin
Prairie Aire 4TA0
Needville, TX
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Painting question |
John,
I suggest a small inline filter just before the gun. They are inexpensive, and
offer a last chance filter.
Gary
NX308MB
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 8, 2013, at 11:34 AM, John Franklin <jbfjr@peoplepc.com> wrote:
>
> I have a run-of-the-mill air compressor with a regulator/oil separator and an
additional water separator, all bought from the big-box home improvement stores.
Is that enough filtration to spray paint with either latex or aircraft dope?
I've heard that any oil that gets into the paint is really bad news.
>
> Thanks,
> John Franklin
> Prairie Aire 4TA0
> Needville, TX
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Painting question |
In TX, your biggest enemy is going to be humidity.
The best way to get rid of that is to run the air through a copper coil in a bucket
of cold water, then a regular water separator, then a small inline dessicant
filter right by the gun.
If you don't have that readily available, even all the air hose you have in a bucket
of cold water. The goal is to condense the water vapor to particles, which
the filter can eliminate. The little dissicant filter (a small little thing
with a particulate filter and dessicant, you know when it saturates by a change
in color). Most compressors aren't blowing out a lot of oil. If you use
hoses that have been used on a system with an oil mister, that's a different
story. But the little dessicant filter should get the little that might make
it through. I've never noticed any.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406248#406248
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Painting question |
Here's the inline dessicant filter:
http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-desiccant-dryerfilter-68215.html
It's important to use a "pre filter" with the bucket of cold water and water particle
separator because I've trashed one of these in a flat two minutes without
it!
I now use a large dessicant filter, about the size of the water particle separators.
You can remove the dessicant and dry it out in an oven. It was about 80
bucks ten years ago, not sure what they run now.
Here's the regular filter:
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-standard-air-filter-68279.html
If you can cool the air before it enters, you can literally see it fill with water
as you use your air compressor. For MAXIMUM effect, route your air directly
from the compressor pump, through some sort of cooler (on my GMC motorhome's
air suspension system, this is a 5' length of 1/4 copper line snaked around
the pump itself, and is cooled by the pump fan), this filter, THEN your tank.
That will keep the majority of water out of your tank, extending its life significantly.
I don't know why compressors aren't just built this way...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406249#406249
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Painting question |
John,=0A-=0AI agree with the below comment but would add, do not paint on
days with more than 70% humidity the lower the better.It reduces water con
tent in the airline but more importantly most paints dry better, with more
gloss in lower humidity.=0A-=0AWe do have-low humidity days-in the Ho
uston area, a good website to check local humidity is- http://www.weather
underground.com/=0A-=0ABesides the above-I use a two 50 ft. hoses with
a extra water separator in between. =0AAnd prefer to use HVLP Spray guns, l
ess overspray, less dust =0A-=0AHans=0A-=0A-=0A =0A=0A_______________
_________________=0A From: tools <n0kkj@yahoo.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list@mat
ronics.com =0ASent: Thursday, August 8, 2013 1:52 PM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-L
"tools" <n0kkj@yahoo.com>=0A=0AIn TX, your biggest enemy is going to be hum
idity.- =0A=0AThe best way to get rid of that is to run the air through a
copper coil in a bucket of cold water, then a regular water separator, the
n a small inline dessicant filter right by the gun.- =0A=0AIf you don't h
ave that readily available, even all the air hose you have in a bucket of c
old water.- The goal is to condense the water vapor to particles, which t
he filter can eliminate.- The little dissicant filter (a small little thi
ng with a particulate filter and dessicant, you know when it saturates by a
change in color).- Most compressors aren't blowing out a lot of oil.-
If you use hoses that have been used on a system with an oil mister, that's
a different story.- But the little dessicant filter should get the littl
e that might make it through.- I've never noticed any.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead
this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p
=========================0A
- - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
====
Message 19
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| Subject: | leather flying helmet |
FYI, I just received the flying helmet from Sportsman's Guide and it looks
very nice. The leather is very soft and the quality seems good. I wear
only a 7" hatsize and they accidently shipped me an XL and it fits
perfectly.
Douwe
Message 20
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Dan, I think we are all contemplating this. Did you scallop the aft edge
of this plywood or do you have a spanwise ridge on the upper suface of
your wing where the fabric transitions from being supported by the
plywood to being unsupported?
Does your airplane stall gently or sharply?
I have always been under the impression that the aft edge of LE plywood
should be unsupported between the ribs to allow for a smooth airflow
transition.
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: danhelsper@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 6:10 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Speed
Sorry- messed up on that last one. What I was trying to say was that I
can't believe I can't raise some opinions on this.
after sitting through some airfoil forums at OSH I surmised that it
just might have something to do with the fact that I supported the aft
edge-top of the wing LE ply so that it couldn't (didn't) sink-down with
the fabric shrinking. What do y'all think?
Dan Helsper
Pryear, TN
Message 21
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Greg,
No scallops. Just a straight cut (spanwise ridge). The plywood goes back to
the aft edge of the spar. I would describe the stalls as gentle. I have no
idea why my ship would be any faster than others. It has all the draggy st
uff the others do. The only other thing I can point to might be my aileron
piano hinges. These are somewhat unique, in that they are mounted flat on t
op of the wing (and aileron), upside down, and I actually recessed the wood
where they are screwed in, so that the top plane of the wing is not upset
by the thickness of the hinge or the bump where the wire goes. I can't imag
ine it can make that much difference.
I had this wing all complete like that before I heard others say to do it t
he other way. I was kicking myself because it looks better the way most hav
e done it, and I was admittedly worried about that ridge acting like a spoi
ler. Its not much but it is there.
Maybe its the 1/16" wire I used to brace the tail (like the Last Original).
:O)
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Cardinal <gcardinal@comcast.net>
Sent: Thu, Aug 8, 2013 4:53 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Speed
Dan, I think we are all contemplating this. Did you scallop the aft edge of
this plywood or do you have a spanwise ridge on the upper suface of your w
ing where the fabric transitions from being supported by the plywood to bei
ng unsupported?
Does your airplane stall gently or sharply?
I have always been under the impression that the aft edge of LE plywood sho
uld be unsupported between the ribs to allow for a smooth airflow transitio
n.
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: danhelsper@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 6:10 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Speed
Sorry- messed up on that last one. What I was trying to say was that I ca
n't believe I can't raise some opinions on this.
after sitting through some airfoil forums at OSH I surmised that it just
might have something to do with the fact that I supported the aft edge-to
p of the wing LE ply so that it couldn't (didn't) sink-down with the fabr
ic shrinking. What do y'all think?
Dan Helsper
Pryear, TN
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 22
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My understanding is same as Greg's. Dan, I think your obvious speed
advantage is coming from those Fancy Dan wheel covers!!
Seriously, though, you may have hit upon the best prop pitch/dia/profile.if
you are happy with its climb. Prop #2 for me was definitely a cruise prop,
causing me to throttle way back to keep it under 90! At that speed, "I
didn't like it much!" But it had a very poor climb rate.
Gary Boothe
NX308MB
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg
Cardinal
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Speed
Dan, I think we are all contemplating this. Did you scallop the aft edge of
this plywood or do you have a spanwise ridge on the upper suface of your
wing where the fabric transitions from being supported by the plywood to
being unsupported?
Does your airplane stall gently or sharply?
I have always been under the impression that the aft edge of LE plywood
should be unsupported between the ribs to allow for a smooth airflow
transition.
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: danhelsper@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 6:10 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Speed
Sorry- messed up on that last one. What I was trying to say was that I can't
believe I can't raise some opinions on this.
after sitting through some airfoil forums at OSH I surmised that it just
might have something to do with the fact that I supported the aft edge-top
of the wing LE ply so that it couldn't (didn't) sink-down with the fabric
shrinking. What do y'all think?
Dan Helsper
Pryear, TN
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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Message 23
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When Larry and I flew over to Brodhead together a couple of years ago I had
to do S-turns for him to catch up. As I say, I don't know why. He says his
is the world's slowest Pietenpol, and has tried other cylinder heads and p
rops trying to get it to go faster, to no avail. Tools, you may be correct
that my rigging just happens to be as good as it can be.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: tools <n0kkj@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 8, 2013 3:53 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Speed
As Piet folks, we really don't spend much time rigging our planes. Most Pi
ets
fly around with the elevator not in line with the stab in normal cruise fli
ght.
The Piet tail is not a lifting tail like a bleriot (spelling) or something.
Even though the elevator is deflected down in level stable flight, the tail
is
holding the nose up. What that would indicate is that the stab should be
trimmed out to eliminate that extra drag.
Struts and washout should be trimmed for fastest cruise. Incidence should
be
trimmed for minimal drag...
When I rebuilt my Piet, which included making new wing struts, I'm sure the
plane was rigged differently than before. However, it felt the same so I l
et it
go at that. However, it was faster than before, I attributed it to finally
being comfortable enough in the plane, and by myself (before always instruc
ting
my son) to realize it went faster with the ball 3/4 out to the right, meani
ng
the plane wasn't rigged right, the ball indicator wasn't rigged right, or t
he
new struts just happened to rig the wing in a way that was faster.
While airfoils obviously make a difference, in our performance zone, I'm
thinking stuff like I mentioned is simply more likely than the trailing edg
e
difference.
Larry Williams thought maybe his leading edge half ribs slowed his plane do
wn
significantly... who knows?!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406228#406228
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| Subject: | Re: ford oil pressure |
Jeff,
Can't answer your question because of limited knowledge. It sounds like you
may be on to something.
Can you share your conclusions for the piston scraping problems? I would su
re like to hear your thoughts on that subject now that you have done the re
build.
Dan Helsper
Puryear, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: bender <jfaith@solairusaviation.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 8, 2013 3:50 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: ford oil pressure
>
Ok... got my engine back together and ran it yesterday.
I modified the oil pump per a ford Nov1932 service bulletin to increase the
oil
flow and machined the housing and gears to increase pressure a bit per
billsbangers.com
To my surprise, after running it I saw a steady 2lbs of pressure.
I plugged the line going from the pump galley to the front of the pan...re
d
arrow below.... and that gives me 5-6 lbs.. I know the increase in flow is
big..
and its feeding the bearings for sure cause I now have a front main leak..
but
i'm wondering how important the line, red arrow, from the pump to the dippe
r
tray really is... could it be restricted a bit or go away. the other line f
rom
the valve galley is feeding the tray and all the oil from the mains hits th
e
tray too. The line from the pump to the tray is just a big "leak" on the
pressure feeding the mains.
about to pull the pan to fix the main seal
jeff faith
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406232#406232
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oilpipe1_775.jpg
Message 25
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I'm not sure how to do it, perhaps just really good photography, but a close observation
of the attitude of the top longeron of the fuse between your two Piets
while in very stable level flight should reveal the relative condition of the
rigging.
Maybe just a good level, perhaps an iPhone's app would work, dunno.
But a lot of extra fuselage hanging out in the breeze is HUGE. When I ferried
2RN home, after taking off one very smooth morning, I found myself settling back
down towards the trees! I was panic stricken as I cycled the carb heat, double
checked the airspeed, etc. I finally realized the ball was WAAAAY out to
one side (remember, this was my 5th Piet flight! My 8th light civil flight since
high school...), I centered it and climbed normally (still not good, had
a very cruisey prop). I was shocked at how performance limiting that slip was.
Just a few degrees of yaw or a non level fuse (relative to relative wind) would
make a very noticeable difference.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406268#406268
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| Subject: | Off Topic -- Ohio Flyers -- Help |
So here's the deal. I'm ferrying a Dakota Hawk (wood, plans built, tail wheel,
no transponder, sound familiar?) from outside Milwaukee to Maine. The route
from the PA border up to Maine is pretty straight forward but I need some suggestions
on coping with Chicago and Cleveland air space. Did I mention NO transponder?
Those of you who fly from mid-Ohio to Brodhead have a preferred route south of
the ORD Class B and I can't remember what it is. Also, is there an easy way past
CLE at intermediate VFR altitudes?
Thanks All
Dave Aldrich
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406271#406271
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| Subject: | Off Topic -- Ohio Flyers -- Help |
Dave,
You didn't mention whether or not you will have a GPS. Assuming you do,
here is the route that I would program in to get you around Chicago:
I fly from Brodhead to Poplar Grove, Illinois (C77), then go to Swett
intersection (which should keep you clear of Aurora's Class D airspace) then
to Joliet (KJOT) After you get to Joliet, you should be clear of Chicago.
Maybe Mike Cuy can chime in with advice for avoiding CLE airspace.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP (which is still in Brodhead - I need to get back up there and fly it
back home)
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dgaldrich
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 8:47 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Off Topic -- Ohio Flyers -- Help
So here's the deal. I'm ferrying a Dakota Hawk (wood, plans built, tail
wheel, no transponder, sound familiar?) from outside Milwaukee to Maine.
The route from the PA border up to Maine is pretty straight forward but I
need some suggestions on coping with Chicago and Cleveland air space. Did I
mention NO transponder?
Those of you who fly from mid-Ohio to Brodhead have a preferred route south
of the ORD Class B and I can't remember what it is. Also, is there an easy
way past CLE at intermediate VFR altitudes?
Thanks All
Dave Aldrich
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406271#406271
Message 28
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| Subject: | How many engines? for CONTACT Magazine |
To those more knowledgeable on this list:
I suspect that more engines have been used to power the Pietenpol that
any other plane in history. This might be a good topic for an article
for the all-Piet issue of CONTACT magazine. I am very curious how
many have been used successfully.
Here is the list of the ones I can name off the top of my head.
Please add to the list any others you know of, or redefine any that I
have misnamed or are incorrect.
Continental A-65
A-75
C-85
C-90
O-200
Twin 65 hp
Lycoming 65 hp
O-235
Ford Model A
Model B
Flat head V-8
Escort engine
Funk variation of the Model A
Warner radial (Which one I do not know)
Velie radial
Rotec radial
Lambert radial
Buick V-8
Corvair
Toyota (I don't remember which one, but there was a pic a few months ago of
two Piets in New Zealand who were powered by Toyotas)
Geo/Suzuki 2300 cc
Mitsubishi (soon to be)
(Was there a Continental 50 hp, a Volkswagen, a Lycoming 125 hp GPU,
or a Kinner?)
John Fay
in Peoria
Message 29
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Might be you've discovered a new vortex generating
system. Better get it patented, quick!
Clif
Not a shred of evidence exists in favor of the idea that life is
serious. -Brendan Gill
Dan, I think we are all contemplating this.
I have always been under the impression that the aft edge of LE
plywood should be unsupported between the ribs to allow for a smooth
airflow transition.
Greg
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: How many engines? for CONTACT Magazine |
There was also a Vega powered Piet and don't forget Mountain Piet with the
turbo Subaru.
There is one being built in Minneapolis in which a Honda V-6 is being
planned.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Fay" <jfay1950@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 9:48 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: How many engines? for CONTACT Magazine
>
> To those more knowledgeable on this list:
>
> I suspect that more engines have been used to power the Pietenpol that
> any other plane in history. This might be a good topic for an article
> for the all-Piet issue of CONTACT magazine. I am very curious how
> many have been used successfully.
> Here is the list of the ones I can name off the top of my head.
> Please add to the list any others you know of, or redefine any that I
> have misnamed or are incorrect.
>
> Continental A-65
> A-75
> C-85
> C-90
> O-200
> Twin 65 hp
>
> Lycoming 65 hp
> O-235
>
> Ford Model A
> Model B
> Flat head V-8
> Escort engine
>
> Funk variation of the Model A
>
> Warner radial (Which one I do not know)
>
> Velie radial
> Rotec radial
> Lambert radial
>
> Buick V-8
> Corvair
> Toyota (I don't remember which one, but there was a pic a few months ago
> of
> two Piets in New Zealand who were powered by Toyotas)
>
> Geo/Suzuki 2300 cc
>
> Mitsubishi (soon to be)
>
> (Was there a Continental 50 hp, a Volkswagen, a Lycoming 125 hp GPU,
> or a Kinner?)
>
>
> John Fay
> in Peoria
>
>
>
Message 31
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I completely agree with tools. Rigging the airplane and the control surfaces,
as well as setting the engine thrustline properly, has made a very noticeable
difference in the way Scout flies and handles. It absolutely, positively has
to make a difference in drag when all the control surfaces are aligned and the
engine thrust is being applied most effectively. Your airplane must be exceptionally
well squared and true.
Think about the four primary forces acting on the airplane: thrust, drag, lift,
and gravity. Among the hundreds of different Piets out there, several of these
factors are going to be quite close to one another, so it comes down to small
variations. Given a Piet with a Ford engine and radiator, landing gear, and
empty weight similar to yours- how many things can be different? With the same
empty weight (or gross weight), gravity is the same. With the same airfoil
and span, washout, and dihedral- lift will be the same. With similar engine
and prop, thrust will be the same. And with rigging, landing gear, cowlings,
windscreens and general finish being similar, drag will be the same. So now
you have to start looking at the small nuances.
People have made it their life's work to optimize aircraft performance by small
but careful detailing. Roy LoPresti, Klaus Sauvier, Mike Arnold, and others
have done this. Apparently you've done it as well, since I doubt that you carry
a leather pouch of pixie dust that you reach into for a pinch to sprinkle on
your airplane before each flight.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406279#406279
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: cables, wires, tubes, cords, instruments, etc |
Mario: your question is too general. Are you asking about electrical wiring, mechanical
connections such as throttle and tachometer, or maybe just about how
to pass through the firewall?
Do you have an electrical system (battery, alternator, starter, etc.)? If not,
that makes it much simpler.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406282#406282
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