Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:54 AM - Re: Off Topic -- Ohio Flyers -- Help (Don Emch)
2. 05:08 AM - alternative engines (Douwe Blumberg)
3. 07:08 AM - New Propeller Arrival (Michael Perez)
4. 08:04 AM - Re: Re: Aileron Hinges (Ray Krause)
5. 09:27 AM - Re: New Propeller Arrival (Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB)
6. 12:44 PM - Re: How many engines? for CONTACT Magazine (Billy McCaskill)
7. 07:41 PM - planes the movie (Dortch, Steven D MAJ MIL USA NGB)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic -- Ohio Flyers -- Help |
I live and hangar just a few miles south of Elser. Mike Stanko is pretty much
out of the Staggerwing business. Things slowed down in that area when the bottom
dropped out a few years back. A cool place to shop in that area is Salem
Airpark. Great owners and a fantastic restaurant on the field. By the way Galen
Elser, who used to own Elser airport contributed quite a bit to the Pietenpol
lore.... But that's a whole other discussion. If you pass through the area
fell free to look me up, I'm at York field just south of Elser.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406403#406403
Message 2
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| Subject: | alternative engines |
Don't forget Lowell's Funk B (inverted and modified Ford)
There's a dutch guy named "Douwe" (can you believe it) building one with
some sort of small radial up front, maybe a velie?
A Buick/rover v8 in Australia
Message 3
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| Subject: | New Propeller Arrival |
-I received my CloudCars propeller yesterday.-It is a 76 X 38 all maple
scimitar that I ordered not finished...which saved me some money and allow
s me to finish, stain, paint, varnish as I want.- As shipped, it weighs 1
0#.- With it was a note from Jay Anderson to call him for some finishing
tips. During our conversation, he told me that they seem to get better perf
ormance from the props. that are left with the "scallops" intact as opposed
to the-propellers that are sanded smooth. He also recommended that the "
fields", (fiberglass covered tips) stay intact. Sounded like most people do
n't like the rough, patch-work look of them and try to fill/sand smooth. Th
ese fields form a nice, hard edge around the wood that should also be left
intact.- My plan was to sand the propeller smooth and make it as slick as
I could. After our 40 min. conversation, I am now going to leave the prop.
as shipped. Jay said some MILD sanding is fine to prep. it for it's first
coat of protection, (paint, varnish, stain...) but nothing more than that
is needed.- MILD sanding between coats is also OK, but keep it to a minim
um.=0A-=0AJay was very adamant about staying away from off the shelf Minw
ax - type varnishes. I don't remember his EXACT reasoning, but it had somet
hing to do with some type of plastic chemicals used, that his experience sh
ows to peel and crack over time. His recommendation to me was to use Ace Ha
rdware spar varnish.- #273A110 is for 1 gallon of gloss. I will be lookin
g into quart size semi/satin and if found, I will pass those numbers along.
=0A-=0AColor choice and heat were another concern. Dark colors and the su
n make Jay uneasy somewhat. We agreed that if using a dark prop. and the pl
ane will sit in the sun, (stored outside,-plenty of fly ins, etc.) a prop
eller cover of some sort is a wise idea.=0A-=0AI feel the intel. Jay shar
ed with me may be of use to others, so I posted here.- =0A-=0AI love my
propeller and Jay seems to be a fine gentleman with a lot of knowledge con
cerning propellers-and the making of.- I am grateful that he took the t
ime to talk to me and stop me from making some mistakes and also preventing
me from potentially decreasing my propellers performance. =0A-=0AMichael
Perez=0APietenpol HINT Videos=0AKaretaker Aero=0Ahttp://www.karetakeraero.
com/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Hinges |
Thanks, Gary.
Ray
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 9, 2013, at 10:25 PM, "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I think the locktite would be optional. The consensus is that there are so
> many screws you are bound to see one loosening before any danger. I recently
> removed all from the left wing, after 50 hrs, and there were no loose
> screws.
>
> Gary Boothe
> NX308MB
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ray Krause
> Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 8:57 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Aileron Hinges
>
> --> <raykrause@frontiernet.net>
>
> Seems the aileron hinge bolts would not be in place during covering. When
> ready to install the hinges after covering, just clean the t nuts with a
> tap. Maybe?
>
> I did have the screws in place when I added two part epoxy to the
> t-nuts/screws. The epoxy holds the screws in the t-nuts very tightly! Found
> a little bit of heat from a micro torch released the screws quickly and
> cleanly. I plan on MAYBE using a mild locktite (blue?) when I finally
> install the hinges.
>
>
> Ray Krause
> SkyScout, t-nuts in place with small screws.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 9, 2013, at 10:38 AM, "tools" <n0kkj@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> I would be wary of the woodworking T-nut, as many aircraft finishes tend
> to drip a lot inside the wing. If any drips on the aileron hinge bolt, when
> you go to remove, it'll likely come part way out and jam...
>>
>> Then you'll push harder, dislodge the t-nut... and you've got problems.
>>
>> This can be avoided, however, by using the hinge pin instead of the screws
> to take the aileron off (should you need to), or perhaps careful treating of
> the threads to discourage anything dripping on them from sticking.
>>
>> The aircraft style nut plates held with little screws will work better.
> I've got those t-nuts all over the inspection belly plate, and they give me
> fits. Fortunately I can get to the top of them once the plate is off. I've
> had to cut a few heads off to get that far. Inside the wing, you'll be
> cutting the fabric unless an inspection hole is nearby.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406342#406342
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: New Propeller Arrival |
UNCLASSIFIED
Micheal, That looks awful. You would not want to put that on your plane. I will
provide my shipping address and you can dispose of it by shipping it to me!
Seriously, Looks great.
I have a friend who is an aerodynamicist. Do you want me to ask him his opinion
on the "scallops"?
Blue Skies,
Steve D
On 08/10/13, Michael Perez wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> I received my CloudCars propeller yesterday. It is a 76 X 38 all maple scimitar
that I ordered not finished...which saved me some money and allows me to finish,
stain, paint, varnish as I want. As shipped, it weighs 10#. With it was
a note from Jay Anderson to call him for some finishing tips. During our conversation,
he told me that they seem to get better performance from the props. that
are left with the "scallops" intact as opposed to the propellers that are
sanded smooth. He also recommended that the "fields", (fiberglass covered tips)
stay intact. Sounded like most people don't like the rough, patch-work look
of them and try to fill/sand smooth. These fields form a nice, hard edge around
the wood that should also be left intact. My plan was to sand the propeller
smooth and make it as slick as I could. After our 40 min. conversation, I am now
going to leave the prop. as shipped. Jay said some MILD sanding is fine to
prep. it for it's first coat of protection, (paint, varnish, stain...) but nothing
more than that is needed. MILD sanding between coats is also OK, but keep
it to a minimum.
>
> Jay was very adamant about staying away from off the shelf Minwax - type varnishes.
I don't remember his EXACT reasoning, but it had something to do with some
type of plastic chemicals used, that his experience shows to peel and crack
over time. His recommendation to me was to use Ace Hardware spar varnish. #273A110
is for 1 gallon of gloss. I will be looking into quart size semi/satin
and if found, I will pass those numbers along.
>
> Color choice and heat were another concern. Dark colors and the sun make Jay
uneasy somewhat. We agreed that if using a dark prop. and the plane will sit in
the sun, (stored outside, plenty of fly ins, etc.) a propeller cover of some
sort is a wise idea.
>
> I feel the intel. Jay shared with me may be of use to others, so I posted here.
>
> I love my propeller and Jay seems to be a fine gentleman with a lot of knowledge
concerning propellers and the making of. I am grateful that he took the time
to talk to me and stop me from making some mistakes and also preventing me
from potentially decreasing my propellers performance.
>
> Michael Perez
> Pietenpol HINT Videos
> Karetaker Aero
> http://www.karetakeraero.com/(blockedhttp://www.karetakeraero.com/)
UNCLASSIFIED
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: How many engines? for CONTACT Magazine |
I think there was also a Sky Scout a few years ago that had a 4 cylinder inline
Dodge engine, perhaps a 2.2l.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Baker, LA
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406417#406417
Message 7
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| Subject: | planes the movie |
UNCLASSIFIED
Just returned from seeing Planes in 3D with my 12 and 13 year old boys.
All of us really enjoyed it. Basically Cars but with planes. No problem, Cars is
a really great movie. The boys felt that they were just about equally good.
It is just about the best 3D effects I have ever seen.
I was surprised at the accuracy in many areas. The only Vtail was a French-Canadian
female twin. Not sure how I feel about that.
Most movie critic reviews pan the movie saying it is just a rehash and is predictable.
But they are not the audience it was aimed at. The kids throughout the
theater all clapped and cheered when the hero overcame obstacles.
I think it is a must see for Aviators. especially with their kids and grandkids.
Blue Skies,
Steve D
UNCLASSIFIED
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