Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:55 AM - Engine Cowling Help (Michael Perez)
2. 01:13 PM - Re: Engine Cowling Help (Ken Bickers)
3. 02:01 PM - Re: Engine Cowling Help (Gary Boothe)
4. 02:18 PM - Re: Engine Cowling Help (dgaldrich)
5. 02:35 PM - Cowl construction (Rick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Engine Cowling Help |
-Crew, =0A=0AToday I am finally starting my engine cowling work.-- Wh
at I need help with initially is how it attaches to the aircraft. I assume
it is not wise to attach any of it to the engine because of movement, so do
es the entire assembly cantilever off of the firewall area of the fuselage
only? It seems strange to me that there is no support out by the propeller.
Any help, tips, tricks or suggestions would be appreciated. =0A=0AThanks.
=0A=0AIf God is your co-pilot...switch seats.=0AMichael Perez=0APietenpol H
INT Videos=0AKaretaker Aero=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling Help |
I'm at the same stage as Mike, in terms of cowl fabrication, and welcome
any suggestions. Mr. Bingelis has some good advice on this, but I'm sure
there's additional advice from the list. Advice about what not to do is
just as welcome as affirmative advice.
Cheers, Ken
On Sat, Jan 4, 2014 at 12:52 PM, Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>wrote:
> Crew,
>
> Today I am finally starting my engine cowling work. What I need help
> with initially is how it attaches to the aircraft. I assume it is not
> wise to attach any of it to the engine because of movement, so does the
> entire assembly cantilever off of the firewall area of the fuselage only?
> It seems strange to me that there is no support out by the propeller. Any
> help, tips, tricks or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> If God is your co-pilot...switch seats.
> Michael Perez
> Pietenpol HINT Videos
> Karetaker Aero
> www.karetakeraero.com
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Engine Cowling Help |
Ken,
As you said, Uncle Tony has good advice, including what I am about to
repeat. I'm glad you took the time to access that information!
My cowl came out nice, though I continue to modify it. One of my long term
goals will be to reduce the 5,347 stainless screws, by at least half! With
some 'noodling' I am, little by little, gathering a plan to use pins (like
Mike Cuy, Greg Cardinal and a few others.) instead of some of the screws. I
will also be able to employ some piano hinges that will eliminate a couple
hundred more screws.
What I am finding is that removing and replacing the cowl is a daunting
task, and I'm sure it discourages me from looking into the engine
compartment as often as I would like.
Best wishes!
Gary Boothe
NX308MB
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Bickers
Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2014 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Engine Cowling Help
I'm at the same stage as Mike, in terms of cowl fabrication, and welcome any
suggestions. Mr. Bingelis has some good advice on this, but I'm sure
there's additional advice from the list. Advice about what not to do is just
as welcome as affirmative advice.
Cheers, Ken
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling Help |
For the Continentals, you might find a J-3 Cub and take a close look at the attaching
method. It takes about 30 seconds to pull the clips and have the top cowl
off. I have the Cub cowling off the Grega and can take pictures if you need
them but looking at a J-3 in person is a lot better.
Dave
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416569#416569
Message 5
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| Subject: | Cowl construction |
Ken and Michael,
Here is a photo of how I did my cowl. You can see where the support tabs are
located on the firewall, plus one in the center at the bottom of the firewa
ll. The tabs along the top bow of the firewall are located where the cleco's
are. Michael, you are right that the cowl needs to cantilever off the fire
wall and not touch the engine or motor mount. Once you get it designed, bolt
ed and riveted together, it's surprising how strong it is.
Make sure you make good use of thin cardboard patterns before you start cutt
ing metal. The cardboard I used was cardboard used to protect product on pal
lets that I got for free from Tractor Supply Co.
Rick Schreiber
Valparaiso IN
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