Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:26 AM - Re: Engine Cowling Help (taildrags)
2. 07:11 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (Michael Perez)
3. 07:20 AM - Re: Cowl construction (Michael Perez)
4. 07:25 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (Michael Perez)
5. 07:29 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (Michael Perez)
6. 07:42 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (Jack Phillips)
7. 07:59 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (Rick)
8. 08:10 AM - Re: Cowl construction (Michael Groah)
9. 11:00 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (skipgadd@earthlink.net)
10. 12:20 PM - Re: Cowl construction (Ken Bickers)
11. 01:37 PM - cowling (Douwe Blumberg)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling Help |
The cowling on my airplane is put together essentially like those on a Cub and
like on many other Piets. The top and bottom halves are held together mostly
by removable piano hinge pins so that either can be removed independently. NOTHING
is connected from the cowling to the engine, and shouldn't be. The top
is held to the firewall by 3 screws/tinnerman nuts from tabs mounted to the firewall,
the bottom is held to the firewall by pins with removable clips (two on
each side), and probably a half-dozen screws with tinnerman nuts at the nose.
I can have it off the airplane in 10 minutes or less.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416587#416587
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling Help |
Dave, since I do not have access to an actual J-3, pictures would be fantas
tic!- I will be fabricating this cowling for easy removal...best that I c
an.=0A=0A=0AIf God is your co-pilot...switch seats.=0AMichael Perez=0APiete
npol HINT Videos=0AKaretaker Aero=0Ahttp://www.karetakeraero.com/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl construction |
Thanks Rick. I just wanted to be sure I was thinking correct about having t
he entire cowling "mounted" only to the firewall. In my mind, doing so just
would not be study enough; considering wind, vibration, etc., but as with
most items on the Pietenpol...once properly constructed, the finished unit
is very strong.--=0A=0AIf God is your co-pilot...switch seats.=0AMichae
l Perez=0APietenpol HINT Videos=0AKaretaker Aero=0Ahttp://www.karetakeraero
.com/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling Help |
Thank you Oscar. You sent me some good intel. on cowling work in the past..
.thanks for that again too.- =0A-=0AA reacuring theme hers is the ease
of access/removability...I'll be paying close attention to both as I progre
ss.-=0A=0AIf God is your co-pilot...switch seats.=0AMichael Perez=0APiete
npol HINT Videos=0AKaretaker Aero=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling Help |
OK, I just wanted to be sure that the cowling did in fact, mount only off t
he firewall.- Thank you all again for the help.- =0A-=0ASomeone menti
oned using cardboard for templates. I-make poster board templates for jus
t about everything prior to fabrication. I keep all of them in case later d
own the road a part needs to be re-made. I believe I have enough poster boa
rd to make my engine cowl wrong a couple times and correct once.-=0A=0AIf
God is your co-pilot...switch seats.=0AMichael Perez=0APietenpol HINT Vide
os=0AKaretaker Aero=0Ahttp://www.karetakeraero.com/
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling Help |
I found matte board (like for matting picture frames) works better than
posterboard. It's much stiffer (almost as stiff as aluminum) and comes in
larger sizes so you don't have to keep taping pieces of posterboard
together.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Perez
Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2014 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engine Cowling Help
OK, I just wanted to be sure that the cowling did in fact, mount only off
the firewall. Thank you all again for the help.
Someone mentioned using cardboard for templates. I make poster board
templates for just about everything prior to fabrication. I keep all of them
in case later down the road a part needs to be re-made. I believe I have
enough poster board to make my engine cowl wrong a couple times and correct
once.
If God is your co-pilot...switch seats.
Michael Perez
Pietenpol HINT Videos
Karetaker Aero
http://www.karetakeraero.com/
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling Help |
Mike,
The problem I found with poster board for the cowling templates is that the s
heets are too small. Having to splice sheets together was too much trouble. A
s I said, I wound up using the free sheets I got from TSC. I think the sheet
s are about 40" square and fine as far as thickness and durability go. The f
ree aspect is also great. I found I was more inclined to experiment with the
patterns as mistakes cost me nothing except a little time
Rick Schreiber
Valparaiso, IN
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 5, 2014, at 9:26 AM, Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> OK, I just wanted to be sure that the cowling did in fact, mount only off t
he firewall. Thank you all again for the help.
>
> Someone mentioned using cardboard for templates. I make poster board templ
ates for just about everything prior to fabrication. I keep all of them in c
ase later down the road a part needs to be re-made. I believe I have enough p
oster board to make my engine cowl wrong a couple times and correct once.
>
> If God is your co-pilot...switch seats.
> Michael Perez
> Pietenpol HINT Videos
> Karetaker Aero
> http://www.karetakeraero.com/
>
>
==========================
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl construction |
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling Help |
Felix the GN1 has a J3 cowl. It has 3 studs attached to the firewall on
each side, than a piece of leather and lock pins stuck through a hole in
the stud. There is one on each side similar type stud/lock pins holding top
to bottom half of cowl. There are 2 studs on eater side of the prop hub.
They are bolted with a kind of bow tie shaped piece to the engine block.
I always thought it was stock J3, since it has a stock J3 cowl and engine
mount.
Bingelis does say #1 page 100 "As a rule the cowling is not attached to the
engine"
Maybe it works on this plane because there are only 6 attach points cowl to
firewall and 2 attach points to the engine block.
Anyway it has worked for almost 500 hours no problem. It is also very easy
to remove the cowl.
Skip
> [Original Message]
> From: taildrags <taildrags@hotmail.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 1/5/2014 6:29:23 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engine Cowling Help
>
>
> The cowling on my airplane is put together essentially like those on a
Cub and like on many other Piets. The top and bottom halves are held
together mostly by removable piano hinge pins so that either can be removed
independently. NOTHING is connected from the cowling to the engine, and
shouldn't be. The top is held to the firewall by 3 screws/tinnerman nuts
from tabs mounted to the firewall, the bottom is held to the firewall by
pins with removable clips (two on each side), and probably a half-dozen
screws with tinnerman nuts at the nose. I can have it off the airplane in
10 minutes or less.
>
> --------
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
> Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
> A75 power
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416587#416587
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl construction |
Rick,
Great suggestion about the paperboard used on pallets. Free is my favorite
price. I think I'll wander by a few local stores this week and see if they
will let me help with their recycling needs.
Meanwhile, I'm going to start working on the nosebowl using some of those
blue foam boards as described by Mr. Bingelis. My plan is to make a
pressure cowl along the lines of the Bell Piet.
Cheers, Ken
On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 9:09 AM, Michael Groah <dskogrover@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
Message 11
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Hey guys,
You are right Mike, since the engine is moving, NO part of the cowling
should touch it. As it's cantilevered from the firewall, it is quite stiff
and doesn't need any support up front.
There are many ways to attach it to the fuse and work, but my $.02 about
what is most important is this. Be sure your mounting points are secure and
solid, and secondly, use a system that enables you to whip that cowling off
easily or you'll curse yourself later, I promise.
You don't want anything making it difficult to open the engine up, or to
give you an excuse to not ck something, and removing dozens of screws might
do that IMHO.
A cowling that is split horizontally makes removal much easier and things
can often be seen or reached by just removing the top half.
Mike Cuys' is a super system or something like it.
Once I got the cowling sides attached, I riveted a section of aluminum angle
across the inside of the bottom of the cowling so that it would "index" with
the bottom of the firewall. This did two things, firstly it helps give you
something to gauge where things are when you're putting the bit bottom half
of the cowling on, AND since the thing is cantilevered from the sides, it is
"resting" against the bottom of the cowling and taking some potential strain
off the other fasteners.
Also, think of things that need to come off to remove the cowling, like
breather tube etc. Can you get to your gascolator easily? Can you change
the oil with the cowling in place? Also keep in mind that you'll be using
your cowling latches, pins or whatever lots of times each year, will it
scratch the surrounding paint? Is there something you can do to stop that??
Good luck!
Douwe
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