---------------------------------------------------------- Pietenpol-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 01/05/14: 11 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:26 AM - Re: Engine Cowling Help (taildrags) 2. 07:11 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (Michael Perez) 3. 07:20 AM - Re: Cowl construction (Michael Perez) 4. 07:25 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (Michael Perez) 5. 07:29 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (Michael Perez) 6. 07:42 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (Jack Phillips) 7. 07:59 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (Rick) 8. 08:10 AM - Re: Cowl construction (Michael Groah) 9. 11:00 AM - Re: Re: Engine Cowling Help (skipgadd@earthlink.net) 10. 12:20 PM - Re: Cowl construction (Ken Bickers) 11. 01:37 PM - cowling (Douwe Blumberg) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:26:20 AM PST US Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engine Cowling Help From: "taildrags" The cowling on my airplane is put together essentially like those on a Cub and like on many other Piets. The top and bottom halves are held together mostly by removable piano hinge pins so that either can be removed independently. NOTHING is connected from the cowling to the engine, and shouldn't be. The top is held to the firewall by 3 screws/tinnerman nuts from tabs mounted to the firewall, the bottom is held to the firewall by pins with removable clips (two on each side), and probably a half-dozen screws with tinnerman nuts at the nose. I can have it off the airplane in 10 minutes or less. -------- Oscar Zuniga Medford, OR Air Camper NX41CC "Scout" A75 power Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416587#416587 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:11:52 AM PST US From: Michael Perez Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engine Cowling Help Dave, since I do not have access to an actual J-3, pictures would be fantas tic!- I will be fabricating this cowling for easy removal...best that I c an.=0A=0A=0AIf God is your co-pilot...switch seats.=0AMichael Perez=0APiete npol HINT Videos=0AKaretaker Aero=0Ahttp://www.karetakeraero.com/ ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:20:29 AM PST US From: Michael Perez Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cowl construction Thanks Rick. I just wanted to be sure I was thinking correct about having t he entire cowling "mounted" only to the firewall. In my mind, doing so just would not be study enough; considering wind, vibration, etc., but as with most items on the Pietenpol...once properly constructed, the finished unit is very strong.--=0A=0AIf God is your co-pilot...switch seats.=0AMichae l Perez=0APietenpol HINT Videos=0AKaretaker Aero=0Ahttp://www.karetakeraero .com/ ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:25:14 AM PST US From: Michael Perez Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engine Cowling Help Thank you Oscar. You sent me some good intel. on cowling work in the past.. .thanks for that again too.- =0A-=0AA reacuring theme hers is the ease of access/removability...I'll be paying close attention to both as I progre ss.-=0A=0AIf God is your co-pilot...switch seats.=0AMichael Perez=0APiete npol HINT Videos=0AKaretaker Aero=0Awww.karetakeraero.com ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:29:49 AM PST US From: Michael Perez Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engine Cowling Help OK, I just wanted to be sure that the cowling did in fact, mount only off t he firewall.- Thank you all again for the help.- =0A-=0ASomeone menti oned using cardboard for templates. I-make poster board templates for jus t about everything prior to fabrication. I keep all of them in case later d own the road a part needs to be re-made. I believe I have enough poster boa rd to make my engine cowl wrong a couple times and correct once.-=0A=0AIf God is your co-pilot...switch seats.=0AMichael Perez=0APietenpol HINT Vide os=0AKaretaker Aero=0Ahttp://www.karetakeraero.com/ ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:42:05 AM PST US From: "Jack Phillips" Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engine Cowling Help I found matte board (like for matting picture frames) works better than posterboard. It's much stiffer (almost as stiff as aluminum) and comes in larger sizes so you don't have to keep taping pieces of posterboard together. Jack Phillips NX899JP Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia _____ From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Perez Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2014 10:27 AM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engine Cowling Help OK, I just wanted to be sure that the cowling did in fact, mount only off the firewall. Thank you all again for the help. Someone mentioned using cardboard for templates. I make poster board templates for just about everything prior to fabrication. I keep all of them in case later down the road a part needs to be re-made. I believe I have enough poster board to make my engine cowl wrong a couple times and correct once. If God is your co-pilot...switch seats. Michael Perez Pietenpol HINT Videos Karetaker Aero http://www.karetakeraero.com/ ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:59:58 AM PST US Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engine Cowling Help From: Rick Mike, The problem I found with poster board for the cowling templates is that the s heets are too small. Having to splice sheets together was too much trouble. A s I said, I wound up using the free sheets I got from TSC. I think the sheet s are about 40" square and fine as far as thickness and durability go. The f ree aspect is also great. I found I was more inclined to experiment with the patterns as mistakes cost me nothing except a little time Rick Schreiber Valparaiso, IN Sent from my iPad On Jan 5, 2014, at 9:26 AM, Michael Perez wrote: > OK, I just wanted to be sure that the cowling did in fact, mount only off t he firewall. Thank you all again for the help. > > Someone mentioned using cardboard for templates. I make poster board templ ates for just about everything prior to fabrication. I keep all of them in c ase later down the road a part needs to be re-made. I believe I have enough p oster board to make my engine cowl wrong a couple times and correct once. > > If God is your co-pilot...switch seats. > Michael Perez > Pietenpol HINT Videos > Karetaker Aero > http://www.karetakeraero.com/ > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:10:21 AM PST US Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cowl construction From: Michael Groah ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:00:38 AM PST US From: "skipgadd@earthlink.net" Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engine Cowling Help Felix the GN1 has a J3 cowl. It has 3 studs attached to the firewall on each side, than a piece of leather and lock pins stuck through a hole in the stud. There is one on each side similar type stud/lock pins holding top to bottom half of cowl. There are 2 studs on eater side of the prop hub. They are bolted with a kind of bow tie shaped piece to the engine block. I always thought it was stock J3, since it has a stock J3 cowl and engine mount. Bingelis does say #1 page 100 "As a rule the cowling is not attached to the engine" Maybe it works on this plane because there are only 6 attach points cowl to firewall and 2 attach points to the engine block. Anyway it has worked for almost 500 hours no problem. It is also very easy to remove the cowl. Skip > [Original Message] > From: taildrags > To: > Date: 1/5/2014 6:29:23 AM > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engine Cowling Help > > > The cowling on my airplane is put together essentially like those on a Cub and like on many other Piets. The top and bottom halves are held together mostly by removable piano hinge pins so that either can be removed independently. NOTHING is connected from the cowling to the engine, and shouldn't be. The top is held to the firewall by 3 screws/tinnerman nuts from tabs mounted to the firewall, the bottom is held to the firewall by pins with removable clips (two on each side), and probably a half-dozen screws with tinnerman nuts at the nose. I can have it off the airplane in 10 minutes or less. > > -------- > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, OR > Air Camper NX41CC "Scout" > A75 power > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416587#416587 > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:20:17 PM PST US Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cowl construction From: Ken Bickers Rick, Great suggestion about the paperboard used on pallets. Free is my favorite price. I think I'll wander by a few local stores this week and see if they will let me help with their recycling needs. Meanwhile, I'm going to start working on the nosebowl using some of those blue foam boards as described by Mr. Bingelis. My plan is to make a pressure cowl along the lines of the Bell Piet. Cheers, Ken On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 9:09 AM, Michael Groah wrote: > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:37:29 PM PST US From: "Douwe Blumberg" Subject: Pietenpol-List: cowling Hey guys, You are right Mike, since the engine is moving, NO part of the cowling should touch it. As it's cantilevered from the firewall, it is quite stiff and doesn't need any support up front. There are many ways to attach it to the fuse and work, but my $.02 about what is most important is this. Be sure your mounting points are secure and solid, and secondly, use a system that enables you to whip that cowling off easily or you'll curse yourself later, I promise. You don't want anything making it difficult to open the engine up, or to give you an excuse to not ck something, and removing dozens of screws might do that IMHO. A cowling that is split horizontally makes removal much easier and things can often be seen or reached by just removing the top half. Mike Cuys' is a super system or something like it. Once I got the cowling sides attached, I riveted a section of aluminum angle across the inside of the bottom of the cowling so that it would "index" with the bottom of the firewall. This did two things, firstly it helps give you something to gauge where things are when you're putting the bit bottom half of the cowling on, AND since the thing is cantilevered from the sides, it is "resting" against the bottom of the cowling and taking some potential strain off the other fasteners. Also, think of things that need to come off to remove the cowling, like breather tube etc. Can you get to your gascolator easily? Can you change the oil with the cowling in place? Also keep in mind that you'll be using your cowling latches, pins or whatever lots of times each year, will it scratch the surrounding paint? Is there something you can do to stop that?? Good luck! 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