Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:16 AM - Re: Re: Cutting 4130 (glenschweizer@yahoo.com)
2. 03:47 AM - Re: Cutting 4130 (Don Emch)
3. 03:49 AM - Re: Gardiner's C-85 (Don Emch)
4. 04:21 AM - Re: Re: Cutting 4130 (Jack Phillips)
5. 04:59 AM - Re: Cutting 4130 (Jerry Grogan)
6. 05:18 AM - Re: Cutting 4130 (Steven Dortch)
7. 05:19 AM - Re: Cutting 4130 (Don Emch)
8. 06:39 AM - Re: nx727cr build update (AircamperN11MS)
9. 06:42 AM - Re: Off subject-- link to some great WWI era aeroplanes in NZ (AircamperN11MS)
10. 07:10 AM - Re: Re: Off subject-- link to some great WWI era aeroplanes in NZ (Michael Perez)
11. 09:27 AM - Re: nx727cr build update (nightmare)
12. 09:32 AM - Re: nx727cr build update (AircamperN11MS)
13. 09:56 AM - Re: Re: nx727cr build update (Michael Perez)
14. 10:16 AM - Cobra Torches... (Ray Krause)
15. 10:38 AM - Re: nx727cr build update (aerocarjake)
16. 10:52 AM - Re: nx727cr build update (John Francis)
17. 11:37 AM - Re: Cutting 4130 (womenfly2)
18. 11:55 AM - Re: Re: nx727cr build update (Ken Bickers)
19. 12:33 PM - Re: texas piet. flyin (curtdm(at)gmail.com)
20. 01:56 PM - Re: Cutting 4130 (Dennis Engelkenjohn)
21. 02:13 PM - Re: nx727cr build update (nightmare)
22. 02:34 PM - Re: Cutting 4130 (jarheadpilot82)
23. 02:49 PM - Re: Cobra Torches... (shad bell)
24. 03:02 PM - How to figure the volume of your center section fuel tank (jarheadpilot82)
25. 03:37 PM - Re: Cobra Torches... (Pietflyer1977)
26. 04:47 PM - Re: How to figure the volume of your center section fuel tank (Lion Mason)
27. 04:59 PM - Re: How to figure the volume of your center section fuel tank (jarheadpilot82)
28. 06:43 PM - Re: How to figure the volume of your center section fuel tank (glenschweizer@yahoo.com)
29. 06:59 PM - Re: How to figure the volume of your center section fuel tank (jarheadpilot82)
30. 07:38 PM - Re: Re: Cobra Torches... (Ray Krause)
31. 08:18 PM - Re: How to figure the volume of your center section fuel tank (Braniff1966)
32. 08:21 PM - Re: texas piet. flyin (Braniff1966)
33. 09:10 PM - Re: Cobra Torches... (Joemotis)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Cutting 4130 |
I've used ,from harbor freight aerospace tools, a cheap assed metal cutting bandsaw.
When you lift the blade sassy to the vertical position, you will see the
adjustable guide rollers that support the blade.fabricate a small table to attach
to that Assy. Now you have something resembling a larger table saw with
the additional and intended use as a metal cutting bandsaw
Mine is made for cutting up to a 4 " diameter pipe or whatever quite the
work horse for a hundred bucks. Keep the blade speed down to keep it cool use
no oil cause it clogs the blade.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 5, 2014, at 10:12 PM, "Clif Dawson" <cdawson5854@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> Make a table for better control.
> This one, along with a 5" vise, is mounted atop a
> restaurant table base. It can be rolled around the
> same as a55 gal drumor barrel. With one foot on
> it it's solid. Make the table hieght the same as the
> top of the vise jaws.
> Although these pics aren't great I'm sure guys-
> who-build-Piets can figure it out. :-)
>
> Clif
> It matters not what things have been.
> It only matters what they become.
>
>
>>
>> I find my 4 1/2 angle grider with cutoff disc works great. I have a second grinder
with a sanding disc to clean up edges. Many fittings can be made by first
buying strip steel of correct width to reduce cuts needed.
>> Paul Donahue
> <CutOffSaw2.jpg>
> <CutOffSaw3.jpg>
> <CutOffSaw4.jpg>
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Subject: | Re: Cutting 4130 |
It's all about your cutting speed, which is referred to in surface feet per minute.
Wood band saws are usually way up there around 1500-2500 SFPM. That will
smoke a blade immediately as soon as you touch steel. In order to cut 4130
you really need to be in the 80-120 SFPM range. Many folks do this by mounting
a jack shaft but it's probably going to surprise you just how big of a pulley
is going to be needed to slow it down. You'll need to do some math and figure
your circumferences on your pulleys. If you want, you can give me your current
RPM and your pulley diameters and I can figure out for you what your SFPM
is. I could then tell you what you would need for a pulley.
As far as teeth per inch (TPI) goes, you always want to engage at least 2 teeth
in your material. Otherwise you can chip a tooth off. Once you do this the
next tooth easily chips off, then the next, the next, and soon you have a whole
strip of teeth missing. Just speakin' from frustrated experience...
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418171#418171
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Subject: | Re: Gardiner's C-85 |
Fred,
Great to hear on some progress. Everyone that has ever built one of these has
had more important family and life obligations get in the way! Looking forward
to some pictures...
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418172#418172
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Subject: | Re: Cutting 4130 |
Don is absolutely right about this. The blade speed needs to be about 80
feet per minute (RPM of the pulleys is irrelevant - all the blade knows is
how fast it is going realtive to the work piece you are trying to cut).
Don is also right about the number of teeth . For the thin stuff we cut I
prefer to get 32 teeth per inch blades, and even then cutting .032" 4130
sheet like you use for the control horns you will chip a few teeth off.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Emch
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 6:47 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Cutting 4130
It's all about your cutting speed, which is referred to in surface feet per
minute. Wood band saws are usually way up there around 1500-2500 SFPM.
That will smoke a blade immediately as soon as you touch steel. In order to
cut 4130 you really need to be in the 80-120 SFPM range. Many folks do this
by mounting a jack shaft but it's probably going to surprise you just how
big of a pulley is going to be needed to slow it down. You'll need to do
some math and figure your circumferences on your pulleys. If you want, you
can give me your current RPM and your pulley diameters and I can figure out
for you what your SFPM is. I could then tell you what you would need for a
pulley.
As far as teeth per inch (TPI) goes, you always want to engage at least 2
teeth in your material. Otherwise you can chip a tooth off. Once you do
this the next tooth easily chips off, then the next, the next, and soon you
have a whole strip of teeth missing. Just speakin' from frustrated
experience...
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418171#418171
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Also besides all the other good advice. What is happening is when you cut
4130 you have to keep cutting. Don't stop or the metal will get hot and CASE
HARDEN. When it case hardens it will take all the teeth off the blade. So
slower is good but the main thing is keep cutting and don't pause. That's
why we water jet cut. We have lost many blades but it can be done and we
still do it sometimes.
Jerry
Sky Classic Aircraft
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of aviken
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 10:04 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cutting 4130
Hi Guys. I need some advice. I have a commercial type band saw that uses
a 93 inch blade. It is really for wood, but I have slowed it down with a
jack shaft I made, and it is slow enough now. I tried to rip some .100
4130 and it quickly ruined my blade. Is this not going to work. I need to
come up with some way to make this thing work.
I've been making some progress on my fuselage and hopeing to finish it
by spring then move on to the wing when time allows
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418163#418163
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/jeep_motor_1_118.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/controls_2_491.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/controls_1_908.jpg
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Subject: | Re: Cutting 4130 |
I love the Jeep motor! Are you going to mount it high and sticking up or
somewhat lower with the prop at a lower position? It could look very
OX5ish.
A buddy has an Overland Whippet he is restoring from ground up. It is the
father of the Jeep. The motor is only about 25 HP but it looks just
like your engine, which looks just like my old 1948 Jeep Pickup's engine.
both were related tothe WW II jeep engine. Not a lot of HP but a hell of a
lot of tourqe on that old Pickup.
Willys-Overland Pickup top speed was 39 MPH. Low transfer and 1st gear top
speed was under 1 MPH.
Blue Skies,
Steve D.
On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 10:03 PM, aviken <aviken@windstream.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Guys. I need some advice. I have a commercial type band saw that
> uses a 93 inch blade. It is really for wood, but I have slowed it down with
> a jack shaft I made, and it is slow enough now. I tried to rip some .100
> 4130 and it quickly ruined my blade. Is this not going to work. I need
> to come up with some way to make this thing work.
> I've been making some progress on my fuselage and hopeing to finish
> it by spring then move on to the wing when time allows
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418163#418163
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/jeep_motor_1_118.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/controls_2_491.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/controls_1_908.jpg
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Cutting 4130 |
I agree with Jack. If you are up in the 120 SFPM range you may want to be using
coolant. Many horizontal saws with a coolant pump run well in this range.
To be safe with a dry vertical saw, shoot for 80 SFPM.
Don Emch
NX899DE
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Subject: | Re: nx727cr build update |
It is beautiful. The wood reminds me of the old Christ Craft wooden boats. I
love it.
I love the smell of 4130 in the morning, :)
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418181#418181
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Subject: | Re: Off subject-- link to some great WWI era aeroplanes |
in NZ
Oh man, I just wet myself. Wish I was there. reminds me of a bok I just read,
"Fighting the flying circus" Great read.
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418182#418182
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Subject: | Re: Off subject-- link to some great WWI era aeroplanes |
in NZ
For those in the area and interested...=0A=0Ahttp://www.nationalmuseum.af.m
il/wwi.asp=0A=0AI plan to be at this event.=0A-=0A=0AIf God is your co-pi
lot...switch seats.=0AMichael Perez=0APietenpol HINT Videos=0AKaretaker Aer
o=0Awww.karetakeraero.com=0A
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Subject: | Re: nx727cr build update |
Thats the look im going for. Got scrap pieces from a marine lumber yard near by.
Teak and holly ply.
--------
Paul Donahue
Started 8-3-12
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418197#418197
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Subject: | Re: nx727cr build update |
I can't wait to see the rest of it. Has anyone ever used wood instead of aluminum
for the upper part of the fuse over the instrument panels? Your floor boards
could look rather smart up there.
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418198#418198
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Subject: | Re: nx727cr build update |
Looks very nice and as with the others, the floor looks really cool!=0A=0AS
cott, I have used plywood for the instrument cowlings. Nothing fancy as min
e are ultimately going to be painted. If I was using a different paint sche
me, I would definitely consider some nice wood and varnish.=0A-=0A=0AIf G
od is your co-pilot...switch seats.=0AMichael Perez=0APietenpol HINT Videos
=0AKaretakerAero=0Awww.karetakeraero.com=0A
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Subject: | Cobra Torches... |
Guys,
Has anyone tried the Cobra acetylene welding system on aircraft tubing? It looks
almost as good as TIG welding, uses a very small flame, easy to manage, does
not distort the tubing, only very small area is heated. I saw a demo at the farm
show and had the fellow weld up a tubing 45 degree joint. Looked really good.
Uses only 4PSI oxygen and acetylene. The literature says it is 900 F hotter
than normal acetylene flame. Also welds aluminum , stainless, copper, and cast
iron. It cuts almost like a plasma cutter, very clean, sharp edges, very little
slag. (Cobratorches.com).
I tried it and could do a decent weld with no experience with it! I am not a welder!
Would like to be!
Comments?
Ray Krause
Sent from my iPad
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Subject: | Re: nx727cr build update |
Awesome....!!! Looks just wonderful. Thanks for posting........
Do Not Archive
--------
Jake Schultz - curator,
Newport Way Air Museum (OK, it's just my home)
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Subject: | Re: nx727cr build update |
It looks great! Then again, so does the green grass.
John from cold Ohio.
--------
John Francis
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418207#418207
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Subject: | Re: Cutting 4130 |
You want a Lenox Bi-Metal Band-saw Blade. Standard TPI = 24, 1/2" wide x .025"
thk. Any tool shop will make up the length you need or order one on line. Your
Band-saw needs to be no more then 200 FPM.
Link: LENOX DIEMASTER 2 BI-METAL BAND SAW BLADES (http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Product.aspx?productId=Diemaster2r)
Hope this helps,
WF2
--------
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Subject: | Re: nx727cr build update |
I also used plywood (1/16") for my instrument cowlings and for the cowling
over my nose tank. Worked great.
On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 10:55 AM, Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>wrote:
> Looks very nice and as with the others, the floor looks really cool!
>
> Scott, I have used plywood for the instrument cowlings. Nothing fancy as
> mine are ultimately going to be painted. If I was using a different paint
> scheme, I would definitely consider some nice wood and varnish.
>
>
> If God is your co-pilot...switch seats.
> Michael Perez
> Pietenpol HINT Videos
> Karetaker Aero
> www.karetakeraero.com
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: texas piet. flyin |
I'll have to drive, but I will try to be there! Any date set?
--------
Curt Merdan
Flower Mound, TX
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Subject: | Re: Cutting 4130 |
I have one of the Harbor Fright metal cutting band saws too. My blade keeps
jumping off though. What I use in real life is a Sears 12" wood cutting
bandsaw slowed down with a 1 1/2 hp AC/DC motor with a speed controller.
Very expensive motor I salvaged years ago from an old ice cream freezer.
Sears sells metal cutting blades of 14 tpi to fit for about $15. If you have
a Sears nearby you can pick one up and try it out. Some blades are better
than others but you can get a blade quick and not be out much if it doesn't
work. They don't last forever, but should make quite a few parts before they
dull. If it does work your can order a more quality blade from other
sources. Those "zipper" blades about 1/16" cut steel like a hot knife
through butter, but I am not so confident about cutting 4130 due to
localized heating. I may be worrying needlessly though and there are several
engineers here who can steer you right on using them. They are available at
Home Cheapo and Lowes and nearly anywhere else that sells tools.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: aviken
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 10:03 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cutting 4130
Hi Guys. I need some advice. I have a commercial type band saw that uses
a 93 inch blade. It is really for wood, but I have slowed it down with a
jack shaft I made, and it is slow enough now. I tried to rip some .100
4130 and it quickly ruined my blade. Is this not going to work. I need to
come up with some way to make this thing work.
I've been making some progress on my fuselage and hopeing to finish
it by spring then move on to the wing when time allows
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418163#418163
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/jeep_motor_1_118.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/controls_2_491.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/controls_1_908.jpg
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: nx727cr build update |
Scott you found out my secret. Ill be doing similar treatment to entire top of
fuselage. 1 ply layer 1/16 or less with veneer strips of teak and holly. But thinking
I may stain the thin holly strips black instead. imagine what Caractacus
Potts would have built after Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.
--------
Paul Donahue
Started 8-3-12
do not archive
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418220#418220
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Cutting 4130 |
Here is my version of Glen's Harbor Freight portaband saw. With my 25% off coupon
and some scrap lumber and brackets I made my vertical saw for about 65 bucks.
It ain't pretty but it has cut .125 thick steel plate. Just buy some metal
cutting blades (the one that comes with is a WOOD cutting blade. Go figure), and
go slow, or the blade will jump off the track, so to speak.
Jake Schultz's setup is a lot better than mine, but he is the one he gave me the
idea.
If you need more help visualizing how to make it, click on the link below-
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-portaband-into-an-vertical-band-saw/step1/The-Portaband/
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
Athens, GA
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Subject: | Re: Cobra Torches... |
If that is the pistol grip style torch, Dad has one.- I tried it a few ye
ars ago with dads regulators that were kind of crappy (pressure settings wa
ndered all over).- I have since bought my own oxy acetylene set up, a Har
ris Metal worker set, with the Mid Size Bottles for $750.- Now that I kno
w what the heck I am doing I am thinking of borrowing it again and see how
I like it.- The hardest thing for me was getting use to holding the torch
like a pistol.- I have watched the DVD that came with the Cobra, and the
y strongly recomend the 2 $tage regulators for very minute adjustments.-
I think the reality is use what you are used to and can make satisfactory w
elds with.- In my humble oppinion welding equipment (Especcially Acetylen
e) is not something I would buy chineese harbor freight stuff.- They prob
ably do as good a job when they work, but with a tank full of very explosiv
e gas I fell a little better knowing It wasn't thrown together by the
commies.------ =0ASorry to get off topic,=0A-=0AShad=0Ado no
t archive=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Ray Krause <rayk
rause@frontiernet.net>=0ATo: "pietenpol-list@matronics.com" <pietenpol-list
@matronics.com> =0ASent: Thursday, February 6, 2014 1:16 PM=0ASubject: Piet
Ray Krause <raykrause@frontiernet.net>=0A=0AGuys,=0A=0AHas anyone tried the
Cobra acetylene welding system on aircraft tubing? It looks almost as good
as TIG welding, uses a very small flame, easy to manage, does not distort
the tubing, only very small area is heated. I saw a demo at the farm show a
nd had the fellow weld up a tubing 45 degree joint. Looked really good. Use
s only 4PSI oxygen and acetylene. The literature says it is 900 F hotter th
an normal acetylene flame. Also welds aluminum , stainless, copper, and cas
t iron. It cuts almost like a plasma cutter, very clean, sharp edges, very
little slag. (Cobratorches.com).=0A=0AI tried it and could do a decent weld
with no experience with it! I am not a welder! Would like to be!=0A=0AComm
-========================
=- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle
========
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Subject: | How to figure the volume of your center section fuel tank |
Reading through old issues of Sport Aviation Magazine, I came across this article
from the January 1990 issue. I have made a copy of the one page and posted
it here. I don't think that the lawyers at EAA will shoot me for doing so, but
I am giving them full credit for the ownership of the article. I wouldn't want
anyone to worry about me taking credit for someone else's work. The article
gives you a method for calculating the area of irregular shapes. I used it to
get a ballpark idea of the size of my center section fuel tank.
I took the template for my fuel tank and measured the side view (which is the
airfoil shape between the front and rear spars), then multiplied that by the
proposed width of the tank. I used a conservative figure of 20 inches. You then
have the volume of your tank in cubic inches. Divide that number by 231 and
you should have a fair idea of the volume of your future fuel tank. my Tiger Moth-ish/Douwe
Blumberg-ish tank comes in at around 19 gallons and change.
Hope that helps.
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
Athens, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418232#418232
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/shop_calc_184.png
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Subject: | Re: Cobra Torches... |
I think you would be happy with it. I have had one for years and really like it.
I use mine several times a week. For me it is easier to hold and have more control.
It does concentrate the flame and temp. You can weld thin sheet metal
nice with minimal warpage but it still will warp. There is a tip for welding thin
wall 4130 that to my knowledge doesn't come with there newer kits. You can
buy it separate. There are two number two tips. One has a ring at the bottom
and the other at the top. The one at the top works best for .035 wall 4130. The
older kits had them but that's when they were a Henbrob which is what I have.
It isn't a must but there regulators make it a little easier to get 4-5 lbs.
most oxygen regulators don't go that low. Also there light weight hoses are nice.
Make sure you use smooth rods to clean the tips. The normal tip cleaners
with grooves will ruin the tips and will not weld right. With practice you can
make a gas weld on your tubing look just like a tig weld. They also weld alum.
Nice but you do have to have the correct lens to see the alum. Melt. My opinion
is they are well worth there money. Good luck!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418235#418235
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Subject: | Re: How to figure the volume of your center section fuel |
tank
Terry I did it the dumb ass way. I kept filling the tank 1 gallon at a time till
it was full and,voila, I had a figure. Gardiner
N
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:02 PM, "jarheadpilot82" <jarheadpilot82@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Reading through old issues of Sport Aviation Magazine, I came across this article
from the January 1990 issue. I have made a copy of the one page and posted
it here. I don't think that the lawyers at EAA will shoot me for doing so, but
I am giving them full credit for the ownership of the article. I wouldn't want
anyone to worry about me taking credit for someone else's work. The article
gives you a method for calculating the area of irregular shapes. I used it to
get a ballpark idea of the size of my center section fuel tank.
>
> I took the template for my fuel tank and measured the side view (which is the
airfoil shape between the front and rear spars), then multiplied that by the
proposed width of the tank. I used a conservative figure of 20 inches. You then
have the volume of your tank in cubic inches. Divide that number by 231 and
you should have a fair idea of the volume of your future fuel tank. my Tiger
Moth-ish/Douwe Blumberg-ish tank comes in at around 19 gallons and change.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> --------
> Semper Fi,
>
> Terry Hand
> Athens, GA
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418232#418232
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/shop_calc_184.png
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: How to figure the volume of your center section fuel |
tank
Gardiner,
I did it this way before building my tank so I could adjust the "Tiger Moth-ish"
shape to give me the fuel I needed. Not having made my tank, it is helping me
in the design phase. Really meant for other active builders, not necessarily
those, like you, that have completed their build.
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
Athens, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418240#418240
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Subject: | Re: How to figure the volume of your center section fuel |
tank
What thickness of alum is good for center section tank ? T3?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 6, 2014, at 4:47 PM, Lion Mason <airlion2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Terry I did it the dumb ass way. I kept filling the tank 1 gallon at a time till
it was full and,voila, I had a figure. Gardiner
> N
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:02 PM, "jarheadpilot82" <jarheadpilot82@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Reading through old issues of Sport Aviation Magazine, I came across this article
from the January 1990 issue. I have made a copy of the one page and posted
it here. I don't think that the lawyers at EAA will shoot me for doing so,
but I am giving them full credit for the ownership of the article. I wouldn't
want anyone to worry about me taking credit for someone else's work. The article
gives you a method for calculating the area of irregular shapes. I used it
to get a ballpark idea of the size of my center section fuel tank.
>>
>> I took the template for my fuel tank and measured the side view (which is
the airfoil shape between the front and rear spars), then multiplied that by the
proposed width of the tank. I used a conservative figure of 20 inches. You
then have the volume of your tank in cubic inches. Divide that number by 231 and
you should have a fair idea of the volume of your future fuel tank. my Tiger
Moth-ish/Douwe Blumberg-ish tank comes in at around 19 gallons and change.
>>
>> Hope that helps.
>>
>> --------
>> Semper Fi,
>>
>> Terry Hand
>> Athens, GA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418232#418232
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/shop_calc_184.png
>
>
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: How to figure the volume of your center section fuel |
tank
Glen,
Here is a link to a Tony Bingelis article about aluminum fuel tanks-
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/authors/bingelis/4How%20About%20An%20Aluminum%20Fuel%20Tank_.html
Hopefully, it can answer a lot of your questions.
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
Athens, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418247#418247
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Subject: | Re: Cobra Torches... |
Thanks, nice pointers. I will go back to the Farm Show and buy a set. Not sure
which tips it comes with. I have cheap "Harbor Fright" regulators, they may not
work. I will see. I think I would feel more secure with this setup than a TIG,
which I have tried. And, it is a lot cheaper! I just hope the welds are as
strong as the TIG.
THANKS,
RAY KRAUSE
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 6, 2014, at 3:36 PM, "Pietflyer1977" <rob@stoinoff.com> wrote:
>
>
> I think you would be happy with it. I have had one for years and really like
it. I use mine several times a week. For me it is easier to hold and have more
control. It does concentrate the flame and temp. You can weld thin sheet metal
nice with minimal warpage but it still will warp. There is a tip for welding
thin wall 4130 that to my knowledge doesn't come with there newer kits. You can
buy it separate. There are two number two tips. One has a ring at the bottom
and the other at the top. The one at the top works best for .035 wall 4130.
The older kits had them but that's when they were a Henbrob which is what I have.
It isn't a must but there regulators make it a little easier to get 4-5 lbs.
most oxygen regulators don't go that low. Also there light weight hoses are
nice. Make sure you use smooth rods to clean the tips. The normal tip cleaners
with grooves will ruin the tips and will not weld right. With practice you can
make a gas weld on your tubing look just like a tig!
> weld. They also weld alum. Nice but you do have to have the correct lens to
see the alum. Melt. My opinion is they are well worth there money. Good luck!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418235#418235
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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Subject: | Re: How to figure the volume of your center section fuel |
tank
that's how I did it. one gal at a time in a milk jug.. I teach aviation science
at a college and we use terrys method..
hyde
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418250#418250
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Subject: | Re: texas piet. flyin |
still looking into it.. not much interest so far
jim
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Subject: | Cobra Torches... |
Oh heck yes
-----Original Message-----
From: shad bell <aviatorbell@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cobra Torches...
If that is the pistol grip style torch, Dad has one.- I tried it a few ye
ars ago with dads regulators that were kind of crappy (pressure settings wa
ndered all over).- I have since bought my own oxy acetylene set up, a Har
ris Metal worker set, with the Mid Size Bottles for $750.- Now that I kno
w what the heck I am doing I am thinking of borrowing it again and see how
I like it.- The hardest thing for me was getting use to holding the torch
like a pistol.- I have watched the DVD that came with the Cobra, and the
y strongly recomend the 2 $tage regulators for very minute adjustments.-
I think the reality is use what you are used to and can make satisfactory w
elds with.- In my humble oppinion welding equipment (Especcially Acetylen
e) is not something I would buy chineese harbor freight stuff.- They prob
ably do as good a job when they work, but with a tank full of very explosiv
e gas I fell a little better knowing It wasn't thrown together by the commi
es.------
Sorry to get off topic,
-
Shad
do not archive
[The entire original message is not included]
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