Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:38 AM - Pietenpol motor mount drop (Lithuanian)
2. 05:14 AM - Re: model A engine (bender)
3. 05:24 AM - Rudder Control horn location (GrantZ)
4. 05:36 AM - Re: Rudder Control horn location (Boatright, Jeffrey)
5. 07:05 AM - Re: Rudder Control horn location (Jack Phillips)
6. 07:35 AM - Re: Pietenpol motor mount drop (Bill Church)
7. 07:48 AM - Re: Rudder Control horn location (Michael Perez)
8. 10:55 AM - Re: model A engine (tools)
9. 11:49 AM - Re: model A engine (AircamperN11MS)
10. 01:37 PM - Re: model A engine (bender)
11. 01:48 PM - Re: model A engine (AircamperN11MS)
12. 01:56 PM - (Steven Dortch)
13. 01:58 PM - Champ at 8T8 (Steven Dortch)
14. 02:50 PM - Re: model A engine (nightmare)
15. 02:54 PM - Re: (Jack Phillips)
16. 02:55 PM - Re: (shad bell)
17. 03:01 PM - Re: model A engine (tools)
18. 03:55 PM - West Coast Pietenpol Gathering (Michael Groah)
19. 04:20 PM - Re: (Mario Giacummo)
20. 04:23 PM - Re: West Coast Pietenpol Gathering (aerocarjake)
21. 04:35 PM - Measuring Latex Viscosity (gliderx5@comcast.net)
22. 05:53 PM - Re: (AircamperN11MS)
23. 06:51 PM - Re: (Michael Groah)
24. 07:14 PM - Re: (Steven Dortch)
25. 07:37 PM - Re: Re: Pietenpol motor mount drop (Clif Dawson)
26. 07:49 PM - Re: (glenschweizer@yahoo.com)
27. 08:16 PM - Re: Rudder Control horn location (GrantZ)
28. 08:43 PM - Re: (AircamperN11MS)
29. 09:04 PM - Re: (Ken Bickers)
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Subject: | Pietenpol motor mount drop |
Hello to all
I have a question about the engine mounting angle .
In 1932 year drawings the angle is 2 1/2 inch, and 1933 year drawings - 1 inch.
Why such a big difference? Fuselage length differs by only 2 inches. In both
cases, the engine of the Ford A. And what is needed at all lowering the engine
axis, or is it necessary
for the angle of attack.?
I look forward to your ideas on the matter
Sorry for my English
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http://forums.matronics.com//files/motor_mount_1932_200.bmp
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Subject: | Re: model A engine |
I have measured each piston and bore.. very consistent . I'm using 283 chevy .060
over pistons with rods from Antique Engine Rebuilding made for this setup with
modern bearings. I put one new piston in and all new rings last time. The
ring gap was .020. these are cam ground.
its been mentioned that I should go back to Model A pistons..I'm not sure I believe
they would be better in any way, just different unless I'm totally missing
something.
Dan is flying with pretty much the same engine and seems to be OK
thanks for the input
Jeff
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Subject: | Rudder Control horn location |
I have noticed that some folks place their rudder horn below the horizontal stab
rather than above as per plan. Seems that would make cable routing easier but
what about changes in torsion load on the rudder mair spar? I am certain Mr.
Pietenpol had a reason for his location but additional understanding would be
useful.
Thoughts and comments on advantages or disadvantages of each location appreciated
as I am ready to mount my horn.
Thanks
Grant Ziebell
Savannah, TN
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Subject: | Re: Rudder Control horn location |
My horns are below, built that way in 1976, several hundred flight hours. Don't
know of advantages or disadvantages.
Sent from an iPhone with a spelling problem
> On Jun 17, 2014, at 8:27 AM, "GrantZ" <grantz5906@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> I have noticed that some folks place their rudder horn below the horizontal stab
rather than above as per plan. Seems that would make cable routing easier
but what about changes in torsion load on the rudder mair spar? I am certain
Mr. Pietenpol had a reason for his location but additional understanding would
be useful.
>
> Thoughts and comments on advantages or disadvantages of each location appreciated
as I am ready to mount my horn.
>
>
> Thanks
> Grant Ziebell
> Savannah, TN
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425000#425000
>
>
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Subject: | Rudder Control horn location |
Grant, you are correct in that placing the horn in the middle makes for
easier loading of the rudder. The primary advantages of moving the horn
below the stabilizer are:
1) More direct routing of the rudder cables
2) Easy to connect a steerable tailwheel
The problems with moving it below the stabilizer are:
1) More difficult to inspect the cable connections to the horn
2) Potentially for overloading the rudder spar from tailwheel loads (not
sure I even believe this)
I built mine to the plans and can easily inspect the cables on every
preflight. However, building to the plans required a separate set of cables
from the rudder bar to the tailwheel for tailwheel steering, adding weight
to an already tailheavy airplane.
I think either way would be fine, but the purists will cringe.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake (W91) Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GrantZ
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 8:24 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rudder Control horn location
I have noticed that some folks place their rudder horn below the horizontal
stab rather than above as per plan. Seems that would make cable routing
easier but what about changes in torsion load on the rudder mair spar? I am
certain Mr. Pietenpol had a reason for his location but additional
understanding would be useful.
Thoughts and comments on advantages or disadvantages of each location
appreciated as I am ready to mount my horn.
Thanks
Grant Ziebell
Savannah, TN
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425000#425000
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Subject: | Re: Pietenpol motor mount drop |
I believe the 1932 drawings indicate 2 1/2 (degrees, not inches).
Bill C.
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Subject: | Re: Rudder Control horn location |
Grant, I have attached a picture for your consideration. I placed my rudder
horn below the horiz. stab. I ran the rudder cables direct from the rudder
bar as usual and then nicopressed the tail wheel cables to those near the
tail end of the fuselage. You can see the pulleys and support structure. It
took some trial and error, but I managed to get the pulleys lined up and a
ngled correctly with the natural lay of the cables.- This method does not
induce any added load directly to the rudder. The various turn buckles and
tail wheel springs are all housed inside the fuselage. I have more picture
s available if you are interested.=0A=0A-=0A=0AIf God is your co-pilot...
switch seats. =0AMike Perez =0AKaretaker Aero =0ASTILL Building...=0A
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Subject: | Re: model A engine |
Ok...
Here's another thought, but would think this one would show up in the water temp.
I've rebuilt (including the boring) small ATV motors. The ones that were fairly
overbored (in the .040 plus range, I think this one was 60 or 80 over), we had
problems with it overheating because at that point the original carb jet was
now too small.
Is Dan's 60 over as well? The mixture needle usually only applies to low speed.
Is the main jet replaceable in your carb? Come to think of it, had this problem
in a Bobcat motor as well, at .040 over.
Just food for thought and brainstorming...
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Subject: | Re: model A engine |
Tools,
If I understand Jeff correctly. The pistons he is using are .060 over Chev 283
pistons. I don't think he has said the Model A block is .060 over. Jeff, please
correct me if I am wrong but I would guess the model A block may only be .010
or .020 over which should not create a heating issue. I would understand
a heating issue if the compression was raise a lot.
I think also that if the engine were running lean that there would be signs of
detonation or even a melted piston.
Jeff, Since you have already said that heat has not been the issue, I would keep
looking at the clearances as the possible cause. Another thought here but
please remember I have not built a Model A but have been a mechanic for 36 years.
Since you have changed to a bearing inserts, could it be possible that the
old arrangement had oil dippers that would splash oil onto the piston skirts
and Cyl walls? Are the Cyl walls getting enough oil on them?
The question I have is "What Changed" from the original design.
It is very hard to be a Monday morning quarterback when I can't hold the parts
in my hand.
I am certainly interested in knowing what you find the root cause is and please
don't give up on that engine. You have too much time invested in it to give up
on it.
My 3 cents, respectfully,
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425031#425031
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Subject: | Re: model A engine |
The Model A original bore was 3.876 and the 283 is 3.875.. so yes the engine is
bored .060 over. The Model a catalogs show pistons available up to .125 oversize
which makes me think .060 leaves plenty of metal.
The insert bearings have holes for oil plenty big and holes on the upper side of
the rod bearings to "spray" the walls. It all looks normal. the fact that its
not just one or two cylinders really makes me think its about clearance but
I also have to think about trust after 2 glider rides. the biggest reason I
built a Piet was the extra A engine I had sitting around... I want to use it but
if I need to put it in the truck to feel safe I may.
Jeff
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Subject: | Re: model A engine |
Jeff,
Thanks for that response. I learned something today, very informative. Good luck
deciding what to do.
I do like the reliability of my 85 cont. engine. I can go anywhere anytime I want
and not worry about it. Nearly every airport in this country will have parts
laying around should I ever need them. I put 9 hours on mine just a week
ago, going to and from the west coast Piet gathering, and hopped rides while I
was there.
My moto here at work is to learn something new each day, then go home. With that
said, I am going home in 15 minutes.
Cheers,
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425038#425038
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*To cover the horizontal Stab on my plane I think I need the following: *
Lightweight Ceconite (1.8OZ)
Ceconite New Super Seam 1 QT
Ceconite Hand Thread 250 or Stits Hand Sewing Thread?
3"Curved Needle
C102 Straight Tape 2"
Any Suggestions?
The Ceconite page says I must have an Iron (calibrated) but several videos
show people using a heatgun ( I have one of these) !
Am I missing anything?
--
Blue Skies,
Steve D
Message 13
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Oscar and John, Last weekend I met Lou (something italian) at 8t8. He has a
90 HP champ. Nice guy. said he would help with any fabric work if I caught
him at the airport. Do y'all know him?
--
Blue Skies,
Steve D
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Subject: | Re: model A engine |
looks like some great leads on fixing the problem. I echo what Scott said about
not giving up on the engine. it will make for a great conversation on what a
pain in the butt it was to get that thing working, which I think is better than
forever wondering what the problem was if you decide to go with a different
power plant.
--------
Paul Donahue
Started 8-3-12
do not archive
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Steve,
I strongly recommend you get a copy of the Ceconite manual. If it is
anything like the PolyFiber manual, a heatgun is a big no-no, and a good way
to lose most or all of the strength of the fabric.
If you have never done any fabric covering, it would be smart to go to
Oshkosh next month and take a workshop.
Good luck,
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake (W91), Virginia
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven
Dortch
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 4:56 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List:
To cover the horizontal Stab on my plane I think I need the following:
Lightweight Ceconite (1.8OZ)
Ceconite New Super Seam 1 QT
Ceconite Hand Thread 250 or Stits Hand Sewing Thread?
3"Curved Needle
C102 Straight Tape 2"
Any Suggestions?
The Ceconite page says I must have an Iron (calibrated) but several videos
show people using a heatgun ( I have one of these) !
Am I missing anything?
--
Blue Skies,
Steve D
Message 16
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DON'T USE A HEAT GUN!- They should include instructions on iron calibrati
on, its just a wet bulb thermometer that is held to the iron).- The probl
em with a heat gun is that you can easily shrink it too far, and it won't h
ave-uniform shrinkage.- I used a model airplane covering iron (Monocoat
Iron) for my fabric work, but if covering a whole airplane buy a decent cl
othes iron.=0A=0AShad =0A=0A=0AOn Tuesday, June 17, 2014 5:03 PM, Steven Do
rtch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com> wrote:=0A =0A=0A=0ATo cover the horizonta
l Stab on my plane I think I need the following: - =0ALightweight Ceconit
e-(1.8OZ) =0ACeconite New Super Seam 1 QT =0ACeconite Hand Thread 250 or
Stits Hand Sewing Thread? =0A3"Curved Needle =0AC102 Straight Tape 2" =0AAn
y Suggestions? =0A- =0AThe Ceconite page says I must have an Iron (calib
rated) but several videos show people using a heatgun ( I have one of these
) ! =0AAm I missing anything? =0A=0A-- =0A=0ABlue Skies,=0ASteve D=0A =0A_
-========================
==============
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: model A engine |
I think this issue, notwithstanding glider rides and such... is FANTASTIC in terms
of learning something new, and something that VERY LIKELY could lead to someone
else NOT having a glider ride someday!
I'm just throwing out anything I can, as I have run into issues like this before,
and it's ALWAYS different.
In terms of the overboring, I do think 60 over leaves plenty of metal, it's just
that in smaller higher tolerance very hi rpm motors it's an issue of mixture,
and they'll run lean if the displacement increases enough without rejetting.
Seems unlikely in this case, but since it hadn't been mentioned, thought I throw
it out JUST IN CASE!
It's like you said, what's different? In this case, we do have a fairly good control
with Dan's motor. Still, SOMETHING is different.
Was Dan's overbored that much? Although a car might be able to run 125 over, car
motors don't run WIDE OPEN nearly all the time. I still think the lean issue
would show in water temp, where clearance issues won't. Do we know how much
clearance Dan has? Both using forge or cast pistons? It seems the forge/cast
issue is likely as well.
I'm trying to get in touch with the local model A club here in OSH area, maybe
someone has some more definitive experience that could help.
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Subject: | West Coast Pietenpol Gathering |
=0A=0AHere is a nice video made by Tom Reeves who attended our west coast g
athering.- We had a smaller group of planes and builders this year but we
still had a great time!=0A=0AMike Groah=0A414MV=0A=0A=0A- Peitenpol Fly-
in 2014=0A=0A =0A Peitenpol Fly-in 2014 =0AView on vimeo.com Preview by
Yahoo
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Its easy, very easy. Just common sense. If something go wrong.... With the
stab you can throw the fabric away and start again. Beleve me.
Regards
El 17/06/2014 17:58, "Steven Dortch" <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com> escribi=C3
=B3:
> *To cover the horizontal Stab on my plane I think I need the following:
*
>
> Lightweight Ceconite (1.8OZ)
>
> Ceconite New Super Seam 1 QT
>
> Ceconite Hand Thread 250 or Stits Hand Sewing Thread?
>
> 3"Curved Needle
>
> C102 Straight Tape 2"
>
> Any Suggestions?
>
>
> The Ceconite page says I must have an Iron (calibrated) but several video
s
> show people using a heatgun ( I have one of these) !
>
> Am I missing anything?
>
>
> --
> Blue Skies,
> Steve D
>
> *
>
===========
.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
===========
>
> *
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: West Coast Pietenpol Gathering |
Very nice....!!!! THANKS for posting the video........
(appreciate the inspiration...!)
--------
Jake Schultz - curator,
Newport Way Air Museum (OK, it's just my home)
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Subject: | Measuring Latex Viscosity |
Hi all
As many of you know, I'm a big fan of latex paint. I've presented an Oshkosh forum
and EAA webinar on the topic, and I'm scheduled for two more Oshkosh forums
this year. One thing that people keep asking is how much to thin the paint.
I kind of know by sight how much to thin it, but that's hard to relate to someone
else. To make a more repeatable and accurate measurement I'm now using a homemade
viscosity cup. Store bought cups were hard for me to find and claimed
to not work with latex. I've added a page to my website that describes how to
make and use the cup. Have a look. I hope it's useful.
http://wienerdogaero.com/LatexViscosity.php
Malcolm Morrison
Wiener Dog Aero
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
I need to say this very loudly. I'm screaming now. DO NOT use a heat gun. You will
have many problems. There is know way to control the heat. It can warp your
structure, burn holes in the fabric and just look awful. I'm sure I have missed
a bunch of other stuff. Just use the iron and you will be happy. You worked
too hard on the structure to rush in the end and have something you won't be
proud of.
Please use an iron. Respectfully,
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425057#425057
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Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
yes... as Scott said... use an iron, do not use a heat gun... You can use a
household clothing iron.- Just use a thermometer to calibrate and mark o
n the iron for the appropriate temperatures (there are videos online that s
how this step).- Easy and cheap.--=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Tuesday, June 17,
2014 5:59 PM, AircamperN11MS <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org> wrote:=0A =0A=0A
city.org>=0A=0AI need to say this very loudly. I'm screaming now. DO NOT us
e a heat gun. You will have many problems. There is know way to control the
heat. It can warp your structure, burn holes in the fabric and just look a
wful. I'm sure I have missed a bunch of other stuff. Just use the iron and
you will be happy. You worked too hard on the structure to rush in the end
and have something you won't be proud of. =0A=0APlease use an iron. Respect
fully,=0A=0A--------=0AScott Liefeld=0AFlying N11MS since March 1972=0AStee
l Tube=0AC-85-12=0AWire Wheels=0ABrodhead in 1996=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this t
opic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425057
=
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Gee Scott, Quit waffling and give me your opinion. I saw the warning on
the Ceconite website about using an Iron. Then I watched a video where a
guy uses a heatgun like an artist. Since I ain't no Douwe, I guess I will
use an Iron. Will it screw up my wife's iron?
Blue Skies,
Steve D
On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 7:52 PM, AircamperN11MS <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org>
wrote:
> Scott.liefeld@lacity.org>
>
> I need to say this very loudly. I'm screaming now. DO NOT use a heat gun.
> You will have many problems. There is know way to control the heat. It can
> warp your structure, burn holes in the fabric and just look awful. I'm sure
> I have missed a bunch of other stuff. Just use the iron and you will be
> happy. You worked too hard on the structure to rush in the end and have
> something you won't be proud of.
>
> Please use an iron. Respectfully,
>
> --------
> Scott Liefeld
> Flying N11MS since March 1972
> Steel Tube
> C-85-12
> Wire Wheels
> Brodhead in 1996
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425057#425057
>
>
--
Blue Skies,
Steve D
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: Pietenpol motor mount drop |
= Alt + 248 on the right number pad.
Just so you know. :-)
Clif
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Church" <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 7:34 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol motor mount drop
> <billspiet@sympatico.ca>
>
> I believe the 1932 drawings indicate 2 1/2 (degrees, not inches).
>
> Bill C.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425010#425010
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Hi Stephen
A full sized iron along with a modeler's iron. At the hobby store wher
e you get the modeler's iron get a thermometer for calibration. Right tools
for the job. You're going to progressively shrink your fabric three differ
ent times, each time higher temp. Make some small framed test panels.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 17, 2014, at 7:13 PM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com> wro
te:
>
> Gee Scott, Quit waffling and give me your opinion. I saw the warning on t
he Ceconite website about using an Iron. Then I watched a video where a guy u
ses a heatgun like an artist. Since I ain't no Douwe, I guess I will use an I
ron. Will it screw up my wife's iron?
>
> Blue Skies,
> Steve D
>
>
>> On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 7:52 PM, AircamperN11MS <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org
> wrote:
ity.org>
>>
>> I need to say this very loudly. I'm screaming now. DO NOT use a heat gun.
You will have many problems. There is know way to control the heat. It can w
arp your structure, burn holes in the fabric and just look awful. I'm sure I
have missed a bunch of other stuff. Just use the iron and you will be happy
. You worked too hard on the structure to rush in the end and have something
you won't be proud of.
>>
>> Please use an iron. Respectfully,
>>
>> --------
>> Scott Liefeld
>> Flying N11MS since March 1972
>> Steel Tube
>> C-85-12
>> Wire Wheels
>> Brodhead in 1996
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425057#425057
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol
-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
> --
> Blue Skies,
> Steve D
>
>
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 27
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Subject: | Re: Rudder Control horn location |
Thanks to all. Good comments.
I think I will leave horn unmounted until ready to rig cables, then decide.
Mike Perez - additional photos would be much appreciated
Thanks again.
Grant Ziebell
Savannah, TN
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425066#425066
Message 28
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Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Yes I got a little excited. Then I saw the other more tactful replies. Your wife's
iron may work. The trouble with most new irons are attorneys. Some won't get
hot enough and others have a built in timer that shuts it off after a period
of time. Get a candy thermometer to calibrate it. Also use the same extension
cord every time so the temp are repeatable. Just mark the dial with marks you
understand. Like maybe 1, 2 and 3 for the different settings you need. You may
need to try a couple of different irons to find one you like.
I'm glad you laughed rather than cry after reading my rant.
Have fun. Covering was the best part most fun for me.
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425067#425067
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Steve (and Scott), I'm not a big fan of the candy thermometer approach to
calibrating irons. I used one of those on my first attempt at shrinking
fabric. I first calibrated the candy thermometer by placing it in boiling
water. It was pretty close to the right number. But you can only
calibrate the thermometer at that one temperature, which means when you use
it to calibrate the iron it can be off a lot at temperatures that matter.
In my case, the first shrink at 250 degrees was just fine. So was the
second shrink at 300, or so I thought. On the third and final shrink at
350 degrees, the iron went right through the ceconite. I threw the candy
thermometer away, tore off the remaining fabric, and started that piece
over. Fortunately it was one of the small pieces. I then bought one of
those little wheel style mechanical wire thermometers. It worked just
fine. I'd concur with Scott about the extension cord. I had to use a
longer cord when I covered my wings. I found that the temperatures on the
iron were off by quite a bit when I used the second cord. Recalibrating
from time to time is a good idea anyway, but especially so if you change
cords. One last thing. You can find lots of perfectly good old-style used
irons at flea markets. Or do what I did. Buy your wife a fancy new one.
Take the old one out to the hangar. Ken
On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 9:43 PM, AircamperN11MS <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org>
wrote:
> Scott.liefeld@lacity.org>
>
> Yes I got a little excited. Then I saw the other more tactful replies.
> Your wife's iron may work. The trouble with most new irons are attorneys.
> Some won't get hot enough and others have a built in timer that shuts it
> off after a period of time. Get a candy thermometer to calibrate it. Also
> use the same extension cord every time so the temp are repeatable. Just
> mark the dial with marks you understand. Like maybe 1, 2 and 3 for the
> different settings you need. You may need to try a couple of different
> irons to find one you like.
> I'm glad you laughed rather than cry after reading my rant.
>
> Have fun. Covering was the best part most fun for me.
>
> --------
> Scott Liefeld
> Flying N11MS since March 1972
> Steel Tube
> C-85-12
> Wire Wheels
> Brodhead in 1996
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425067#425067
>
>
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