Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Wed 06/18/14


Total Messages Posted: 15



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:57 AM - Re: Champ at 8T8 (John Kuhfahl)
     2. 03:14 AM - Re:  (Jack)
     3. 03:18 AM - Re: Pietenpol motor mount drop (Lithuanian)
     4. 03:22 AM - Re:  (Gene Rambo)
     5. 04:21 AM - Re:  (Michael Perez)
     6. 05:43 AM - Re: Rudder Control horn location (Michael Perez)
     7. 08:57 AM - Re:  (dgaldrich)
     8. 09:06 AM - Re: Champ at 8T8 (taildrags)
     9. 09:53 AM - Re: Champ at 8T8 (taildrags)
    10. 11:57 AM - Covering (Douwe)
    11. 12:09 PM - Re: Covering (Gmail)
    12. 01:44 PM - Piper cub struts. (Steven Dortch)
    13. 05:28 PM - Re: Piper cub struts. (Jack Textor)
    14. 05:50 PM - Re: model A engine (taildrags)
    15. 06:20 PM - Re: Piper cub struts. (Steven Dortch)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:57:31 AM PST US
    From: John Kuhfahl <kuhlcouper@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Champ at 8T8
    Yes--good guy. Sent from my iPhone John Kuhfahl President, KUHLCOUPER LLC On Jun 17, 2014, at 3:58 PM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com> wrote : > Oscar and John, Last weekend I met Lou (something italian) at 8t8. He has a 90 HP champ. Nice guy. said he would help with any fabric work if I caught h im at the airport. Do y'all know him? > > -- > Blue Skies, > Steve D > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= >


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:14:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: tenpol-List:
    From: Jack <jack@textors.com>
    Yes Steve it will mess it up. Sent from my iPad Jack Textor > On Jun 17, 2014, at 9:13 PM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com> wro te: > > Gee Scott, Quit waffling and give me your opinion. I saw the warning on t he Ceconite website about using an Iron. Then I watched a video where a guy u ses a heatgun like an artist. Since I ain't no Douwe, I guess I will use an I ron. Will it screw up my wife's iron? > > Blue Skies, > Steve D > > >> On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 7:52 PM, AircamperN11MS <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org > wrote: ity.org> >> >> I need to say this very loudly. I'm screaming now. DO NOT use a heat gun. You will have many problems. There is know way to control the heat. It can w arp your structure, burn holes in the fabric and just look awful. I'm sure I have missed a bunch of other stuff. Just use the iron and you will be happy . You worked too hard on the structure to rush in the end and have something you won't be proud of. >> >> Please use an iron. Respectfully, >> >> -------- >> Scott Liefeld >> Flying N11MS since March 1972 >> Steel Tube >> C-85-12 >> Wire Wheels >> Brodhead in 1996 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425057#425057 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ========== >> br> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol -List >> ========== >> MS - >> k">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> e - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== > > > > -- > Blue Skies, > Steve D > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >


    Message 3


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    Time: 03:18:47 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Pietenpol motor mount drop
    From: "Lithuanian" <projektas.orlaivis@gmail.com>
    Bill Church wrote: > I believe the 1932 drawings indicate 2 1/2 (degrees, not inches). > > Bill C. thank you Bill for help Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425070#425070


    Message 4


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    Time: 03:22:41 AM PST US
    From: Gene Rambo <generambo@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: tenpol-List:
    Those infra-red "pistol" type thermometers are relatively cheap ($30?) and g ive instantaneous, accurate temp. Using that, I've found that marks on the i rons I have used are worthless. Keep the IR by your side and check it often while working. You'll be amazed b y the fluctuations, but you won't burn any holes. Gene On Jun 18, 2014, at 12:03 AM, Ken Bickers <bickers.ken@gmail.com> wrote: > Steve (and Scott), I'm not a big fan of the candy thermometer approach to c alibrating irons. I used one of those on my first attempt at shrinking fabr ic. I first calibrated the candy thermometer by placing it in boiling water . It was pretty close to the right number. But you can only calibrate the t hermometer at that one temperature, which means when you use it to calibrate the iron it can be off a lot at temperatures that matter. In my case, the f irst shrink at 250 degrees was just fine. So was the second shrink at 300, o r so I thought. On the third and final shrink at 350 degrees, the iron went right through the ceconite. I threw the candy thermometer away, tore off t he remaining fabric, and started that piece over. Fortunately it was one of the small pieces. I then bought one of those little wheel style mechanical wire thermometers. It worked just fine. I'd concur with Scott about the e xtension cord. I had to use a longer cord when I covered my wings. I found that the temperatures on the iron were off by quite a bit when I used the s econd cord. Recalibrating from time to time is a good idea anyway, but espe cially so if you change cords. One last thing. You can find lots of perfec tly good old-style used irons at flea markets. Or do what I did. Buy your w ife a fancy new one. Take the old one out to the hangar. Ken > > > On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 9:43 PM, AircamperN11MS <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org> wrote: ity.org> >> >> Yes I got a little excited. Then I saw the other more tactful replies. Yo ur wife's iron may work. The trouble with most new irons are attorneys. Some won't get hot enough and others have a built in timer that shuts it off aft er a period of time. Get a candy thermometer to calibrate it. Also use the s ame extension cord every time so the temp are repeatable. Just mark the dial with marks you understand. Like maybe 1, 2 and 3 for the different settings you need. You may need to try a couple of different irons to find one you l ike. >> I'm glad you laughed rather than cry after reading my rant. >> >> Have fun. Covering was the best part most fun for me. >> >> -------- >> Scott Liefeld >> Flying N11MS since March 1972 >> Steel Tube >> C-85-12 >> Wire Wheels >> Brodhead in 1996 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425067#425067 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ========== >> br> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol -List >> ========== >> MS - >> k">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> e - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= >


    Message 5


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    Time: 04:21:55 AM PST US
    From: Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: tenpol-List:
    Covering my plane was one of the most fun aspects of the project for me. I had never done it prior, so at first it seemed a little "involved." However , having done it with great success, I can say that it is quite easy and it only needs to be as "involved" as you allow it.- I used the Superflite l ight weight fabric, pinked tapes, flat stitch cord, home made needle, (weld ing rod) Eko Bond glue, 1" cheapest Home Depot type brush I could find... - I used our current home iron, (bought in the military some 24+ years ag o) and a cheap "laser" type thermometer. =0A=0AOne simple "tool" I made was for the cement. I glued a coffee can lid to the bottom of a Dixie cup for stability, then used another Dixie cup inside the first to put the glue in. After each glue session I just replaced the inner cup.=0A=0A=0AAnyhoot, on ce you get started you will quickly learn how to use the various tools and consumables, what works, what doesn't, good procedures, bad ideas, etc. It really isn't involved at all. =0A=0A-=0A=0AIf God is your co-pilot...swit ch seats. =0AMike Perez =0AKaretaker Aero =0ASTILL Building...=0A


    Message 6


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    Time: 05:43:28 AM PST US
    From: Michael Perez <speedbrake@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Rudder Control horn location
    Grant, attached are a few more pictures for you. It is hard to see, but the support for the white pulleys is cut at an angle along the top. This sets the pulley itself at the correct angle for the cables, but still keeps the wood piece flat on the sides to better gusset it to the fuselage. This same angle was cut on the bottom notches where the pulley bolt passes through the support. Note the use of plywood where screws/nuts/bolts are to be tightened against the soft spruce. The smaller triangle shaped pulley block was cut with compound angles, to again set the correct pulley angles. If you compare the pictures, you'll see this block is tapered both top/bottom and front/rear. The screws attaching the small tail wheel pulleys were attached using epoxy on the threads to prevent potentially backing out under vibration. (yet easily removed mechanically if necessary) The tail wheel pulleys are far enough away from the tail wheel horn that horn movement does not impart side-way cable movement at the pulley itself. Appropriate access ports are used in the fuselage fabric to gain access to these areas for inspection/maintenance . Not shown is the tail wheel itself. I designed my tail wheel such that the rudder maintains full travel without the tail wheel assembly binding or running out of travel. Yet it does not move so much that it would be squirrelly while rolling. (sensitivity) Tweaks to this can be made with the turnbuckles pictured. These T.B.s can also be used to adjust "neutral" setting if I find that the plane does not taxi straight, (aligned with the rudder) as well as to adjust the tension on the tail wheel springs. This set up is very smooth and seems to operate exceptionally good on the ground. If God is your co-pilot...switch seats. Mike Perez Karetaker Aero STILL Building...


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:57:01 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: tenpol-List:
    From: "dgaldrich" <dgaldrich@embarqmail.com>
    Irons can be acquired relatively cheaply at the local resale shops. Most seem to have a shelf with 3 or 4 used ones sitting there. Find a wall outlet and see which one works. I think the Stewart people recommend at least a 1200 watt one. Your wife will appreciate it. If the truth be told, I found a better one than my wife had at the local Goodwill so she got it and I got her dinosaur. Everybody wins. Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425086#425086


    Message 8


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    Time: 09:06:41 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Champ at 8T8
    From: "taildrags" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
    Steve; I believe that's Lou Viggiano, but check my spelling on that. I do not know him personally, but he's been around quite a while and I've seen his name and his work frequently. Also, don't make too big a deal of the fabric work. It's really quite rewarding and fun to do once you get into it, and when that fabric tautens up... it's happy times to watch the magic happen. Wish I was still there; I have two full-sized irons and one of the small ones for tight areas, too. Plus the long needle, cord, tapes. But ask around on the field, because there are plenty of other builders with fabric supplies just sitting there. -------- Oscar Zuniga Medford, OR Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; A75 power Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425087#425087


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:53:40 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Champ at 8T8
    From: "taildrags" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
    I think I meant to say that the fabric supplies are just sitting there, not the other builders. No, wait... I think I was right the first time ;o) Check with John Latour and his building partner. They were working up at the EAA35 hangar and I believe their project is fabric-covered. Mr. Kuhlcouper is almost always out there, too. Wait! He *lives* there! -------- Oscar Zuniga Medford, OR Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; A75 power Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425089#425089


    Message 10


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    Time: 11:57:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Covering
    From: Douwe <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
    I'd add some anti chafe tape to that list The covering on the tail is right in the slipstream and vibrates a ton. Cover the structure where it'll wear the covering. You'll also want a strip over each rib on the outside of the covering so the stitching doesn't tear thru You wife's iron will likely get something on it, don't ask how I learned this... Oh, and don't use a heat gun... Douwe Sent from my iPhone


    Message 11


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    Time: 12:09:23 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Covering
    From: Gmail <gbacon67@gmail.com>
    I used an infrared thermometer gun to make sure the iron temp was good. Greg Bacon Mtn. Piet > On Jun 18, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Douwe <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> wrote: > > > I'd add some anti chafe tape to that list > > The covering on the tail is right in the slipstream and vibrates a ton. Cover the structure where it'll wear the covering. > > You'll also want a strip over each rib on the outside of the covering so the stitching doesn't tear thru > > You wife's iron will likely get something on it, don't ask how I learned this... > > Oh, and don't use a heat gun... > > Douwe > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 01:44:55 PM PST US
    Subject: Piper cub struts.
    From: Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com>
    I have a set of piper cub shortened struts. I have stripped and inspected them and will prime and paint them. There have been problems with corrosion inside and the FAA approved way to treat the insides is with Linseed oil. What is the experience/advice of the group? I like CorrosionX. I have used it in my Bonanza with good effect. Or one site advises WD40 first and then a waxy rust preventative like MAX WAX. Or perhaps CorrsionX Heavy duty. Or LPS3. Blue Skies, Steve D


    Message 13


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    Time: 05:28:11 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Piper cub struts.
    From: Jack Textor <jack@textors.com>
    Steve I too have a set, look forward to help. Like should I use the larger o nes for the front? Sent from my iPad > On Jun 18, 2014, at 3:44 PM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com> wro te: > > I have a set of piper cub shortened struts. I have stripped and inspecte d them and will prime and paint them. There have been problems with corrosi on inside and the FAA approved way to treat the insides is with Linseed oil. > What is the experience/advice of the group? I like CorrosionX. I have used it in my Bonanza with good effect. Or one site advises WD40 first and then a waxy rust preventative like MAX WAX. Or perhaps CorrsionX Heavy duty. Or LP S3. > > Blue Skies, > Steve D > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >


    Message 14


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    Time: 05:50:49 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: model A engine
    From: "taildrags" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
    So, Dan's engine was built up by Richard Fallucca of Antique Engine Rebuilding in Skokie, Illinois. Info here: http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.com/index.html I'm wondering if he might field a quick question on a phone call, asking about the recommended piston/cylinder clearance on these engines? The parts page on his website shows the Chevy pistons, so he's certainly familiar with their use in this application. My suggestion is to ask the question very generally, NOT as an airplane question. -------- Oscar Zuniga Medford, OR Air Camper NX41CC &quot;Scout&quot; A75 power Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425110#425110


    Message 15


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    Time: 06:20:04 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Piper cub struts.
    From: Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com>
    The Photos I have looked at all have the big struts on the front. I will inspect these one more time with a light inside the strut. Blue Skies, Steve D. On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 7:27 PM, Jack Textor <jack@textors.com> wrote: > Steve I too have a set, look forward to help. Like should I use the larger > ones for the front? > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jun 18, 2014, at 3:44 PM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com> > wrote: > > I have a set of piper cub shortened struts. I have stripped and > inspected them and will prime and paint them. There have been problems > with corrosion inside and the FAA approved way to treat the insides is with > Linseed oil. > What is the experience/advice of the group? I like CorrosionX. I have used > it in my Bonanza with good effect. Or one site advises WD40 first and then > a waxy rust preventative like MAX WAX. Or perhaps CorrsionX Heavy duty. > Or LPS3. > > Blue Skies, > Steve D > > > * > > > * > > -- Blue Skies, Steve D




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