Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:57 AM - Re: Champ at 8T8 (John Kuhfahl)
2. 03:14 AM - Re: (Jack)
3. 03:18 AM - Re: Pietenpol motor mount drop (Lithuanian)
4. 03:22 AM - Re: (Gene Rambo)
5. 04:21 AM - Re: (Michael Perez)
6. 05:43 AM - Re: Rudder Control horn location (Michael Perez)
7. 08:57 AM - Re: (dgaldrich)
8. 09:06 AM - Re: Champ at 8T8 (taildrags)
9. 09:53 AM - Re: Champ at 8T8 (taildrags)
10. 11:57 AM - Covering (Douwe)
11. 12:09 PM - Re: Covering (Gmail)
12. 01:44 PM - Piper cub struts. (Steven Dortch)
13. 05:28 PM - Re: Piper cub struts. (Jack Textor)
14. 05:50 PM - Re: model A engine (taildrags)
15. 06:20 PM - Re: Piper cub struts. (Steven Dortch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Champ at 8T8 |
Yes--good guy.
Sent from my iPhone
John Kuhfahl
President, KUHLCOUPER LLC
On Jun 17, 2014, at 3:58 PM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com> wrote
:
> Oscar and John, Last weekend I met Lou (something italian) at 8t8. He has a
90 HP champ. Nice guy. said he would help with any fabric work if I caught h
im at the airport. Do y'all know him?
>
> --
> Blue Skies,
> Steve D
>
>
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Yes Steve it will mess it up.
Sent from my iPad
Jack Textor
> On Jun 17, 2014, at 9:13 PM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com> wro
te:
>
> Gee Scott, Quit waffling and give me your opinion. I saw the warning on t
he Ceconite website about using an Iron. Then I watched a video where a guy u
ses a heatgun like an artist. Since I ain't no Douwe, I guess I will use an I
ron. Will it screw up my wife's iron?
>
> Blue Skies,
> Steve D
>
>
>> On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 7:52 PM, AircamperN11MS <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org
> wrote:
ity.org>
>>
>> I need to say this very loudly. I'm screaming now. DO NOT use a heat gun.
You will have many problems. There is know way to control the heat. It can w
arp your structure, burn holes in the fabric and just look awful. I'm sure I
have missed a bunch of other stuff. Just use the iron and you will be happy
. You worked too hard on the structure to rush in the end and have something
you won't be proud of.
>>
>> Please use an iron. Respectfully,
>>
>> --------
>> Scott Liefeld
>> Flying N11MS since March 1972
>> Steel Tube
>> C-85-12
>> Wire Wheels
>> Brodhead in 1996
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425057#425057
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol
-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
> --
> Blue Skies,
> Steve D
>
>
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>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol motor mount drop |
Bill Church wrote:
> I believe the 1932 drawings indicate 2 1/2 (degrees, not inches).
>
> Bill C.
thank you Bill for help
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425070#425070
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Those infra-red "pistol" type thermometers are relatively cheap ($30?) and g
ive instantaneous, accurate temp. Using that, I've found that marks on the i
rons I have used are worthless.
Keep the IR by your side and check it often while working. You'll be amazed b
y the fluctuations, but you won't burn any holes.
Gene
On Jun 18, 2014, at 12:03 AM, Ken Bickers <bickers.ken@gmail.com> wrote:
> Steve (and Scott), I'm not a big fan of the candy thermometer approach to c
alibrating irons. I used one of those on my first attempt at shrinking fabr
ic. I first calibrated the candy thermometer by placing it in boiling water
. It was pretty close to the right number. But you can only calibrate the t
hermometer at that one temperature, which means when you use it to calibrate
the iron it can be off a lot at temperatures that matter. In my case, the f
irst shrink at 250 degrees was just fine. So was the second shrink at 300, o
r so I thought. On the third and final shrink at 350 degrees, the iron went
right through the ceconite. I threw the candy thermometer away, tore off t
he remaining fabric, and started that piece over. Fortunately it was one of
the small pieces. I then bought one of those little wheel style mechanical
wire thermometers. It worked just fine. I'd concur with Scott about the e
xtension cord. I had to use a longer cord when I covered my wings. I found
that the temperatures on the iron were off by quite a bit when I used the s
econd cord. Recalibrating from time to time is a good idea anyway, but espe
cially so if you change cords. One last thing. You can find lots of perfec
tly good old-style used irons at flea markets. Or do what I did. Buy your w
ife a fancy new one. Take the old one out to the hangar. Ken
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 9:43 PM, AircamperN11MS <Scott.liefeld@lacity.org>
wrote:
ity.org>
>>
>> Yes I got a little excited. Then I saw the other more tactful replies. Yo
ur wife's iron may work. The trouble with most new irons are attorneys. Some
won't get hot enough and others have a built in timer that shuts it off aft
er a period of time. Get a candy thermometer to calibrate it. Also use the s
ame extension cord every time so the temp are repeatable. Just mark the dial
with marks you understand. Like maybe 1, 2 and 3 for the different settings
you need. You may need to try a couple of different irons to find one you l
ike.
>> I'm glad you laughed rather than cry after reading my rant.
>>
>> Have fun. Covering was the best part most fun for me.
>>
>> --------
>> Scott Liefeld
>> Flying N11MS since March 1972
>> Steel Tube
>> C-85-12
>> Wire Wheels
>> Brodhead in 1996
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425067#425067
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol
-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Covering my plane was one of the most fun aspects of the project for me. I
had never done it prior, so at first it seemed a little "involved." However
, having done it with great success, I can say that it is quite easy and it
only needs to be as "involved" as you allow it.- I used the Superflite l
ight weight fabric, pinked tapes, flat stitch cord, home made needle, (weld
ing rod) Eko Bond glue, 1" cheapest Home Depot type brush I could find...
- I used our current home iron, (bought in the military some 24+ years ag
o) and a cheap "laser" type thermometer. =0A=0AOne simple "tool" I made was
for the cement. I glued a coffee can lid to the bottom of a Dixie cup for
stability, then used another Dixie cup inside the first to put the glue in.
After each glue session I just replaced the inner cup.=0A=0A=0AAnyhoot, on
ce you get started you will quickly learn how to use the various tools and
consumables, what works, what doesn't, good procedures, bad ideas, etc. It
really isn't involved at all. =0A=0A-=0A=0AIf God is your co-pilot...swit
ch seats. =0AMike Perez =0AKaretaker Aero =0ASTILL Building...=0A
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Control horn location |
Grant, attached are a few more pictures for you. It is hard to see, but the support
for the white pulleys is cut at an angle along the top. This sets the pulley
itself at the correct angle for the cables, but still keeps the wood piece
flat on the sides to better gusset it to the fuselage. This same angle was cut
on the bottom notches where the pulley bolt passes through the support. Note
the use of plywood where screws/nuts/bolts are to be tightened against the soft
spruce. The smaller triangle shaped pulley block was cut with compound angles,
to again set the correct pulley angles. If you compare the pictures, you'll
see this block is tapered both top/bottom and front/rear. The screws attaching
the small tail wheel pulleys were attached using epoxy on the threads to prevent
potentially backing out under vibration. (yet easily removed mechanically
if necessary)
The tail wheel pulleys are far enough away from the tail wheel horn that horn movement
does not impart side-way cable movement at the pulley itself. Appropriate
access ports are used in the fuselage fabric to gain access to these areas
for inspection/maintenance .
Not shown is the tail wheel itself. I designed my tail wheel such that the rudder
maintains full travel without the tail wheel assembly binding or running out
of travel. Yet it does not move so much that it would be squirrelly while rolling.
(sensitivity) Tweaks to this can be made with the turnbuckles pictured.
These T.B.s can also be used to adjust "neutral" setting if I find that the plane
does not taxi straight, (aligned with the rudder) as well as to adjust the
tension on the tail wheel springs.
This set up is very smooth and seems to operate exceptionally good on the ground.
If God is your co-pilot...switch seats.
Mike Perez
Karetaker Aero
STILL Building...
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Irons can be acquired relatively cheaply at the local resale shops. Most seem
to have a shelf with 3 or 4 used ones sitting there. Find a wall outlet and see
which one works. I think the Stewart people recommend at least a 1200 watt
one.
Your wife will appreciate it. If the truth be told, I found a better one than
my wife had at the local Goodwill so she got it and I got her dinosaur. Everybody
wins.
Dave
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425086#425086
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Champ at 8T8 |
Steve; I believe that's Lou Viggiano, but check my spelling on that. I do not
know him personally, but he's been around quite a while and I've seen his name
and his work frequently. Also, don't make too big a deal of the fabric work.
It's really quite rewarding and fun to do once you get into it, and when that
fabric tautens up... it's happy times to watch the magic happen. Wish I was
still there; I have two full-sized irons and one of the small ones for tight
areas, too. Plus the long needle, cord, tapes. But ask around on the field,
because there are plenty of other builders with fabric supplies just sitting there.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425087#425087
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Champ at 8T8 |
I think I meant to say that the fabric supplies are just sitting there, not the
other builders. No, wait... I think I was right the first time ;o) Check with
John Latour and his building partner. They were working up at the EAA35 hangar
and I believe their project is fabric-covered. Mr. Kuhlcouper is almost always
out there, too. Wait! He *lives* there!
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425089#425089
Message 10
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I'd add some anti chafe tape to that list
The covering on the tail is right in the slipstream and vibrates a ton. Cover the
structure where it'll wear the covering.
You'll also want a strip over each rib on the outside of the covering so the stitching
doesn't tear thru
You wife's iron will likely get something on it, don't ask how I learned this...
Oh, and don't use a heat gun...
Douwe
Sent from my iPhone
Message 11
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I used an infrared thermometer gun to make sure the iron temp was good.
Greg Bacon
Mtn. Piet
> On Jun 18, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Douwe <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>
> I'd add some anti chafe tape to that list
>
> The covering on the tail is right in the slipstream and vibrates a ton. Cover
the structure where it'll wear the covering.
>
> You'll also want a strip over each rib on the outside of the covering so the
stitching doesn't tear thru
>
> You wife's iron will likely get something on it, don't ask how I learned this...
>
> Oh, and don't use a heat gun...
>
> Douwe
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Piper cub struts. |
I have a set of piper cub shortened struts. I have stripped and inspected
them and will prime and paint them. There have been problems with
corrosion inside and the FAA approved way to treat the insides is with
Linseed oil.
What is the experience/advice of the group? I like CorrosionX. I have used
it in my Bonanza with good effect. Or one site advises WD40 first and then
a waxy rust preventative like MAX WAX. Or perhaps CorrsionX Heavy duty.
Or LPS3.
Blue Skies,
Steve D
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Piper cub struts. |
Steve I too have a set, look forward to help. Like should I use the larger o
nes for the front?
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 18, 2014, at 3:44 PM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com> wro
te:
>
> I have a set of piper cub shortened struts. I have stripped and inspecte
d them and will prime and paint them. There have been problems with corrosi
on inside and the FAA approved way to treat the insides is with Linseed oil.
> What is the experience/advice of the group? I like CorrosionX. I have used
it in my Bonanza with good effect. Or one site advises WD40 first and then a
waxy rust preventative like MAX WAX. Or perhaps CorrsionX Heavy duty. Or LP
S3.
>
> Blue Skies,
> Steve D
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: model A engine |
So, Dan's engine was built up by Richard Fallucca of Antique Engine Rebuilding
in Skokie, Illinois. Info here:
http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.com/index.html
I'm wondering if he might field a quick question on a phone call, asking about
the recommended piston/cylinder clearance on these engines? The parts page on
his website shows the Chevy pistons, so he's certainly familiar with their use
in this application. My suggestion is to ask the question very generally, NOT
as an airplane question.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425110#425110
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Piper cub struts. |
The Photos I have looked at all have the big struts on the front.
I will inspect these one more time with a light inside the strut.
Blue Skies,
Steve D.
On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 7:27 PM, Jack Textor <jack@textors.com> wrote:
> Steve I too have a set, look forward to help. Like should I use the larger
> ones for the front?
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 18, 2014, at 3:44 PM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> I have a set of piper cub shortened struts. I have stripped and
> inspected them and will prime and paint them. There have been problems
> with corrosion inside and the FAA approved way to treat the insides is with
> Linseed oil.
> What is the experience/advice of the group? I like CorrosionX. I have used
> it in my Bonanza with good effect. Or one site advises WD40 first and then
> a waxy rust preventative like MAX WAX. Or perhaps CorrsionX Heavy duty.
> Or LPS3.
>
> Blue Skies,
> Steve D
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Blue Skies,
Steve D
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